Oh, I fell so in love with Buenos Aires, the beautiful “Paris of South America”! It convinces with a unique blend of European elegance and South American charm. You find here stunning architecture, wide boulevards and charming neighborhoods yet always with a South American flair. And to think that my husband and I only came to Buenos Aires as a stopover destination to Chile (see itinerary). Yet we planned three nights to explore it properly – here is my suggestion for a city tour in keywords (under activities on My Google Map). And this included staying at one of the best luxury hotels and dining at hip gourmet (Michelin) restaurants in Buenos Aires.

After letting you know about where to stay in style in this city, you find details to three great foodie spots in town.

Staying in style at The Palacio Duhau – Park Hyatt Buenos Aires

Of course, we wanted to stay at a hotel paying tribute to Buenos Aires’ image of “Paris of South America”. And the perfect choice here is – and at the same time one of the best luxury hotels in town – the Palacio Duhau – Park Hyatt.

The Palacio Duhau – Park Hyatt Buenos Aires’ back story

The Duhau family, renowned land barons, bought the property in the late 1920s. At the time, the existing mansion from 1898 had already been torn down. The new owners asked French architect León Dourge to design a new residence. He did so, and this inspired by Château du Marais near Paris. The result was a splendid neoclassical palace. After the building’s completion in 1934, the Duhau family used it as a residence, and this until 1995. In 2002, a local developer purchased the palace and entered into a partnership with the Hyatt Hotels.

After a 74 million US$ investment, The opening of The Palacio Duhau as a Park Hyatt property took place in 2006. Most of the palace’s original work was preserved. A new addition was an annex, a modern tower in the eastern end of the gardens.

Location

The Palacio Duhau – Park Hyatt Buenos Aires is favorably located in the poshest corners of the upscale Recoleta neighborhood. It is on Avenida Alvear, one of the most elegant and sophisticated in Buenos Aires. You find here many high-quality shops, glamorous mansions and quite a few embassies.

Yet the hotel’s setting is also good for exploring Buenos Aires’ sights. The closest is the famous Recoleta cemetery. Plaza de Mayo is less than ten minutes by car away, Plaza Dorrego in the historic San Telmo neighborhood less than a quarter of an hour. And you reach the Park Hyatt in about 40 minutes from the (main) Ezeiza International Airport.

Ambiance/Staff

As stated The Palacio Duhau – Park Hyatt Buenos Aires has a rich history and grandeur. The hotel’s palatial elegance is impressive. When entering the historic palace, towering columns, high ceilings, crystal chandeliers and marble floors await you. Personally, I liked Los Salones del Piano Nobile best (à al carte breakfast and light dishes), it is such a beauty!

And there is a lovely tiered garden area, which is considered as one of the best places in town to have a drink outdoors.

The more contemporary newer annex, the Posada Building, was – aesthetically seen – less to my taste. For me, it represents a compromise between tradition and modernity. But I imagine that it was no easy task to complement the original Palacio Building appropriately.

Staff does not fail to impress at The Palacio Duhau – Park Hyatt Buenos Aires. The service was excellent throughout our stay. Employees were attentive without being intrusive. Having said that there was a place where the service was not totally satisfactory. And this was at Los Salones del Nobile at breakfast time. Staff cleared plates on our overcrowded table only upon request. And at times you had to wait quite long for being served.

Rooms

Out of the 165 rooms in total, 23 are in the Palacio Building, 143 in the Pousada Building. The ones in the historic house still retain some of their original Belle Époque charm, the others in the high-rise have more have a sleek, minimalistic feel.

My husband and I had opted for a Park Suite in the newer Pousada Building.

Our room was spacious (72 sqm). It was kept in wood (floors and paneling) and muted tones (cream and chocolate).

The marble bathroom/walk-in closet was roomy and took up about a third of the total space. You could enter it either from the entrance or from near the beds.

We very much liked spending time at our Park Suite and also enjoying the views of the historic main building and over the Recoleta neighborhood.

Restaurants

Duhau Restaurant & Vinoteca in the historical building is Michelin listed and offers Argentinean cuisine. You can make your choice of a selection of meats and fishes, yet also some vegetarian choices are available. Gioia Cocina Botánica is also recommended by the Michelin Guide and specializes in botanical cuisine based on plants, fruits, legumes, algae and fungi. It also offers a buffet breakfast in the morning. The third in the row finally is Los Salones del Piano Nobile. This is the place for small bites and an à la carte breakfast. And all these three spots have an outdoor area too!

We did not have dinner at The Palacio Duhau – Park Hyatt Buenos Aires, yet we had breakfast here four times.  After having assessed both possible locations we opted for Los Salones del Piano Nobile. And we enjoyed the quiet atmosphere at these beautiful premises very much.

Also the food was fine, however “very American”, which means that you get way too much, especially when going for the American Breakfast (47 US$ for one).

Other facilities 

I will not name all the facilities, as they are quite many of them, check them out here. Yet I would like to point out the art gallery. You find it in a massive marble corridor that goes underneath the mentioned garden to link the historic Palacio Building and the newer Pousada Building. And it is open to the public! Do not be shy and have look around.

Overall The Palacio Duhau – Park Hyatt Buenos Aires

If you do not want to stay at one of those faceless, interchangeable hotels, then The Palacio Duhau – Park Hyatt Buenos Aires might be for you. The original building is a neoclassical palacio from 1932, the annex – a vintage tower – from 2006. And in-between you find a lovely tiered garden. Its location is great, in a gorgeous tree-lined street in the fashionable Recoleta neighborhood. Staff is immaculate as you expect it in such an establishment and the guest rooms are outstanding. Short, it definitely is one of the best luxury hotels in Buenos Aires, and if you want to know about great fine-dining restaurants in town too, keep on reading.

Dining in style in Buenos Aires

When I planned our Buenos Aires stay – think of staying at one of best hotels in town and dining in restaurants alike – , I only had the 50 Best Discovery list by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants to rely on. End of November 2023, there was a new addition, the Michelin Guide for Buenos Aires appeared for the first time – also the one for Mendoza. As it turned out, I was not that wrong. I had picked out a Michelin one star restaurant and another one listed in this guide.

A stay in Buenos Aires is not complete without eating at one of the traditional parrillas.

More about this and two other fine-dining spots follows in the next section.

Restaurant Don Julio Buenos Aires

Some background & setting

Like I just mentioned, Don Julio is a parrilla. This is a steakhouse where they grill over charcoal at a low temperature for a long time. The cuts are different and often bigger than in the U.S. In addition, the meat is only seasoned with salt and accompanied by a chimichurri dipping sauce. Back to Don Julio, it is not just any parrilla but according to the Michelin Guide in its comment to the one-star award “one of the world’s best”. As to the 50 Best Restaurants award, this restaurant is ranked No 19 and No 3 on the Latin America list.

The current chef at Don Julio is Pablo Rivero. He was in his 20s when the restaurant opened 1999 in the now trendy Palermo Soho neighborhood in a 19th-century corner property. It is said that his grandparents and parents laid the foundation of this success story, all with a background in beef farming and butchery. They refined the breeding and aging process of their beef to highest excellence.

When we approached Restaurant Don Julio on the day we had reserved – our hotel concierge did this as we were not fast enough to secure a table on the release date of the reservations – , we encountered a hustle and bustle around the place. There were lots of diners outside – it was not that warm – , and people queuing for openings. Upon entering, our eyes immediately fell on the spectacular meat display counter and the grill with the two asadores at work.

There is a main dining room and several smaller ones plus a gallery. The atmosphere is lively yet sophisticated. Staff is friendly, efficient and on hand to offer advice as to choosing the right piece of meat for you and the wine to accompany it.

Food, overall & price

Expectations were high – as you can imagine – , and they were fulfilled. I had prepared for the occasion beforehand, so I knew what to order at Don Julio for us. As I had found out that the meat serving sizes were large, we did not order any starters. And you get tasty bread, a small empañada and a small glass of sparkling wine to start the meal. For main course, we opted for a T-bone steak plus two side dishes, mashed potatoes and asparagus, everything to share.

The meat we got was a veritable highlight. After presenting the T-bone steak to us,

the server arranged it on two plates table-side, leaving the bone on site. Every single bit of it was scrumptious, packed ton of flavor and made our tastebuds sing! The side dishes knew how to please too. For dessert, my husband and I shared a Charlotte. That is Jersey milk ice cream with a warm dark chocolate sauce, poured table-side. It was also a flavorful delight.

Dining at Restaurant Don Julio is a must for every steak lover! This restaurant provides the ideal setting for a high-quality parrilla experience. While the ambiance is still casual and the service rather relaxed, the place is also clearly geared towards fine dining. It is true that you find lots of foreigners here, but that does not detract from the enjoyment. Don Julio takes his “meat responsibility” very seriously, even towards non-locals. And from what I read, Don Julio retains a huge local clientele too. Price wise, the T-Bone steak costed about 136 US$. The total check was around 300 US$ for two (with a bottle of La Gran Nave Malbec).

2. Restaurant Crizia Buenos Aires

Some background & setting

This is another long-standing restaurant in Buenos Aires fine-dining scene. Its opening was in 2004 in the Palermo Soho neighborhood. In 2021, the owners, the husband-and-wife-team of chef Gabriel Oggero and front-of-house director Geraldine Gastaldo, moved it to Palermo Hollywood. The dining spot, specializing in produce from the sea from day one, is ranked No 41 on the Latin America list of the 50 Best Restaurants in the World. And it also appears in the newly published Michelin Guide 2024.

As to the restaurant’s appearance, it is modern, kept in dark hues and dimly lighted. An eye-catcher is the three-story vertical wine cellar at the back of the dining spot.

Service on our evening was amiable, hospitable and helpful.

Food, overall & price

The menu here is comprised in five parts: Oyster Bar, Appetizers from the Ocean, Appetizers from the Farm and the Orchard, Main Courses from The Fires (Chef’s Creations) and Main Courses from Wood Fire (Charcoal & Wood Oven). I have to admit that the concept, especially the difference between the latter to sections, seemed somewhat confusing to me. While “The Fires” includes pasta, seafood, fish, lamb and suckling pig, the “Wood Fire” features fish, seafood, Peking Duck and rib eye. Be it as it may, there are lots of dishes to choose from. And if you should be indecisive, you can still opt for the Puro Mar Tasting Menu. However, this is rather pricey (224 US$ per person).

As the chef is a true connoisseur of oysters – from what I read he has been working with the same cultivator since the beginning, I opted for those as starter.

For the main dish, I chose the Patagonian Trout with a colorful vegetable and berry side dish. My husband also had the Patagonian Trout yet as a Tartar in unison with avocado to start the meal. Then he ordered the Patagonian Sea Bass that came with a potato-almond mousse and fennel. For desserts, we decided on the Dulce de Leche variation and the Chocolate Serena creation.

Everything we had was immaculately done and arranged, full of flavor and served by pleasant staff. My husband and I enjoyed our dinner at Crizia very much. In terms of costs, we spent a bit less than 300 US$ for the two of us with a bottle of wine.

3. Restaurant Chila/Amarra (Fico) Buenos Aires

Some background & setting

The third restaurant my husband and I dined at in Buenos Aires used to be a one of the best fine-dining outlets in town – ranked No 26 on the Latin America list of the 50 Best Restaurants in the World in 2022. And this for 17 long years, since 2016 helmed by Pedro Bargero. Meanwhile, it changed its concept. In 2023, the restaurant functioned as a showcase for a number of chefs/restaurants from different regions of Argentina. It did so under the name of Amarra.

You find this eatery in the heart of Puerto Madero in a former warehouse. There is a large windowed kitchen, which you pass when entering the restaurant. The premises are large, modernly styled and overlook the dockyards.

Staff is friendly and inform widely about what Chila/Amarra has to offer. On our evening, Estefanía Maiorano and Martin Sclippa (Fico) were at work.

From what I understand, the circle through Argentina’s kitchens is now closed. As from this point of time, Amarra’s team takes over to propose its own menu. This makes a tour around the country, taking the lessons learned along the way.

Food, overall & price

When my husband and I dined at Amarra, it was up to Fico, as mentioned. You could choose a three-course menu from an à la carte selection with three to five dishes in each section that costed a bit more than 80 US$ for per person. And it included – exceptionally delicious – snacks

and a pre-dessert. We went for the escabeche with mussels, saffron and pickled carrot as well as for the hazelnut port paté as starters. For mains, I had white fish with chard, asparagus and white garlic, my husband ordered a crab burger with fries. And we ended the meal with a chocolate mousse-buttermilk toffee-tonka bean creation plus a rum baba paired with fruit ice cream.

While we were not completely blown away by the food, some dishes just as mussel escabeche or the chocolate mousse dessert were very good. Other items on the menu just as the paté tarte or the rum baba were not that convincing. Both were overly large portions. Furthermore, the former lacked complexity taste wise. And the latter consisted more or less of dough plus was too filling. Otherwise, we liked the contemporary location by the water and the dedicated staff. When it comes to the check, it was the least expensive of our Buenos Aires dining. We paid a bit less than 250 US$ for two with a bottle of wine.

Looking back at my mini-series about a Chile/Buenos Aires journey

The current post about Buenos Aires showcasing one of the best luxury hotels and three fine-dining restaurants in town was the last of totally six about a Chile/Buenos Aires trip. I started with a 20-day itinerary  that focused on My Google Map of the journey complete with all the upscale hotels and restaurants we visited plus the things we did. The latter includes city tours in key words as well, and everything comes with lots of pictures. Afterwards I went into three high-end hotels in Patagonia and the Atacama Desert. Finally, I outlined how to stay and dine in style in three cities, which were Santiago de Chile, Valparaiso and Buenos Aires.

Date of stay: November 2023

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Nothing against Santiago de Chile, but Valparaiso warmed my heart more. So, if you have two or three days to spare in your Chile itinerary – here is mine – in addition to Patagonia, the Atacama Desert and Santiago, you should go there. Valparaiso is known for its colorful architecture, its steep hills with views of the Pacific Ocean and streets filled with street art. It is much smaller than Santiago plus it is very walkable, despite being hilly. That is because of its picturesque old funiculars, which bring people up and down the hills. Find here a suggestion for a Valparaiso city tour in keywords (under activities on My Google Map). And of course, I also had made sure that my husband and I stayed and dined in style in this coastal city. Thus, I can inform you about probably the best luxury hotel and three good fine-dining restaurants in Valparaiso.

I begin with lodging before letting you know about where to go for dining in style in this picturesque Chilean city.

Staying in style at Hotel Casa Higueras

There is not much choice as to luxury hotels in Valparaiso. And from what I found out, Casa Higueras seems to be the best in town it this lodging segment. So, book ahead, there are only 20 rooms, and you want to have one with sea view! In addition, this hotel also hosts one of the best restaurants in Valparaiso.

Location

Casa Higueras is located on Cerro Alegre (Happy Hill), at the heart of one of the city’s prettiest neighborhoods. It is situated at the back of a dead-end street, so you have absolute quietude here. You have great views of the Pacific Ocean, in this maze of steep slopes and winding streets. And there is a huge numbers of hip stores, cafés and restaurants nearby. Also the main sights are within easy reach.

Ambiance/Staff

The hotel occupies an elegant 1920 converted town house, oozing charm and character. It is decorated with dark wood furniture, artworks and tropical plants. The five-level building nestles along the slope with the benefits of an added tiered garden. It is a lovely property indeed and well maintained too.

The front desk staff is gracious and more than ready to help you with information where to go for sightseeing – and where not. They have great tips how to walk and explore the beautiful Valparaiso (also see My Google Map under activities). Yet all the other staff member we met – at the restaurant in particular – were very friendly, hospitable and attentive.

Rooms

I mentioned it, 20 rooms are available. The ones with sea views and balconies are of course the most desirable ones (and also the more expensive ones). There are five accommodation categories: Traditional, Premium, Premium Superior, Superior and Deluxe. Rates start at 246 US$ in the low season.

My husband and I had a Superior Twin, and we were delighted by the generous layout of our room. There was a large seating area with a small balcony offering great views of the Pacific Ocean.

And the bathroom was oversized with lots of natural light.

As to the interior design, the accommodation married traditional and contemporary decor. I think it suited the character of the house just ideally.

Restaurant

The onsite restaurant, Maralegre, is one of Valparaiso’s best. On offer here is contemporary cuisine locally sourced with an emphasis on seafood. You get traditional Chile Creole cuisine here in combination with Italian and French cooking techniques. Maralegre is known to serve some of the best ceviches in town. The premises are really nice, there is a modernly furnished dining room with lots of wood.

The outdoor area is glorious, a terrace with fabulous views of Valparaiso’s multi-colored houses and the sea.

My husband and I had breakfast here on three mornings, which was good, and once we had a fabulous dinner. More details follow in the section dedicated to the food.

Other facilities

The hotel boasts a few small communal lounges, that are very elegant,

and a spa. In the terraced garden, you also find a delightful pool along with loungers and a Jacuzzi. Plus, there is a splendid rooftop terrace, where you have best views of the surroundings.

Overall Casa Higueras

There is no better lodging option for demanding travelers heading to Valparaiso than Casa Higueras. I would even go so far as to claim that this is the only hotel that deserves the term luxurious in this gorgeous coastal town. And the excellent in-house Restaurant Maralegre is an asset too. So, go here for best upscale hotel and foodie restaurant in Valparaiso. Plus, you are at the right spot here for enjoying the best the city has to offer in terms of shopping, going out and sightseeing.

Dining in style in Valparaiso

I can say in advance that Valparaiso is not exactly a gourmet paradise. And the situation is even worse if you are here from Sunday to Tuesday, as this was the case with my husband and me. In the end, we were able to find three fine dining restaurants which were convincing enough. I had also consulted the 50 Best Discovery list by the World’s 50 Best Restaurants. And they suggested two places, yet unfortunately one of them, La Caperucita y el Lobo, is only open in the evening from Thursday to Saturday. So, that was not for us. Fortunately, our hotel – probably your best choice in Valparaiso – has a recommended restaurant too. And it is open seven days a week. I start with our experience here.

1. Restaurant Maralegre at Casa Higueras Valparaiso

I already informed you about the setting above, so I come straight to food, overall assessment and pricing.

Maralegre – with chef Francisco Guzmán at the helm since since spring 2022 – is strong in seafood cooking, so we opted for such dishes. While not everything on the menu in terms of starters was available, we opted for Abalones with Avocado Emulsion

and Grilled Octopus with Sweet Potato Puree. For mains, we had Sea Fettuccine (fresh noodles with prawns, mussels & small clams) and the Catch of the Day (grilled local fish, broad beans puree & roasted vegetable). To end the meal, we ordered Milk Flan (reduction of milk & fruit sauce) and Chocolate Mousse with Oranges (soft bitter chocolate mousse with caramelized oranges & seasonal fruit ice cream).

The food was carefully prepared and tasted good, we liked what we got. It was more substance than style, but better so than the other way round. Portions were big enough, staff was friendly and informative. Price wise, it was completely fine, we paid around 100 US$ for the two of us (with a bottle of wine). I would recommend dining here if you are looking for a fine meal in a pleasant setting. But do not expect cutting edge gastronomy.

2. Restaurant Portofino Valparaiso

Some background & setting

Here you find no cutting edge fine dining either – as in the place before -, but they know their job at Portofino. The prime benefit of this restaurant that is a bit away from the city center towards Viña del Mar is its setting. Portofino is located at Cerro Esperanza – just above the beach of Caleta Portales  – with the most beautiful views of the Pacific Ocean.

The restaurant, under the management of owner Renato Airola and chef Giuliano Olmos since mid 2021, serves Italian cuisine. The chef puts value on using seasonal produce and sources locally whenever possible, yet he also imports some ingredients (flours, cheeses, oil and different spices) from Italy.

My husband and I were seated what I think was the main dining room – there must be others, the place has a capacity for 140 to 160 guests. From what I read, there also must be several terraces, some belonging to private rooms. The ambiance was pleasant, although I found the paper placemat menus and paper napkins not appropriate for such an establishment.

While not all the servers knew English, communication was no problem. And we received good service.

Food, overall & price

The menu is extensive, you can make your choice out of six sections: Antipasti (starters), Insalate (salads), Primi Piatti (first courses), Secondi di Terra (meat mains), Secondi di Mare (seafood mains) and Dolci (desserts).

My husband and I went for a salad with pears and Gorgonzola cheese as well as Burrata with a tomato variation, red pesto and olives as starters. And wow, both dishes could have passed as mains, they were huge. My advice is to share one starter for two persons. Then we ordered Salmon & Gnocchi

and Rigatoni Tricolore (made three ways). We also had the Foccaccia della Casa, the house bread. As dessert, we shared a Tiramisù with ice cream.

Food was well prepared, appealingly presented and tasty. Not only the size of the starters was generous, it was the case with all the dishes we had. All in all, we liked our experience at Restaurant Portofino, the meal was perfectly adequate. Yet they could improve some details just as providing a decent menu (not in the form of a placemat) and cloth napkins. With regard to pricing, it was good value (around 100 USS$ for two with a bottle of wine).

3. Restaurant La Concepción Valparaiso

Some background & setting

The dinner at Restaurant La Concepción was definitely our culinary highlight in Valparaiso. I mentioned above that there are two dining spots in Valparaiso at the 50 Best Discovery list by the World’s 50 Best Restaurants, and this is one of them.

Despite my trying hard I found not much background about this place. La Concepción’s building dates back to 1880, which has been refurbished over the years. And this apparently by using its own antique wood. The restaurant was opened in late 2005 by an American couple, Jude and Robert Gerrity. And Miguel Fuentes seems to the the manager here, but I could not find any information about the chef.

La Concepción’s setting is nice. The restaurant extends over two floors, the space on the ground floor is very limited. Yet there is a rather large garden terrace with prime views of the container ships far below in Valparaiso’s working port plus of Viña del Mar in the distance. And guests – lots of non-locals among them – seemingly like to eat out there, and this also in colder weather (they provide blankets).

Out waiter was polite but not very talkative.

Food, overall & price

The restaurant offers a wide-ranging menu with a special focus on fish and seafood. Yet you also find international dishes on it. As to starters (five of them were available), we opted for Ostiones la Casa (Chilean scallops), baked with wine and cheese, and they were very good! We had one dish to share, on advice of our server.

In terms of mains, you could choose between three beef or pasta dishes or go for seafood. And the latter is what we did. Out of the seven items on the menu, I had Camarón al Curry, a red curry with Ecuadorian shrimp. My husband decided on Tuna with Oyster Sauce. While my dish was immaculate, my husband’s tuna was a bit on the less tender side. Although the accompanying mote (corn) risotto was great. The same is true for the bread that they served!

For dessert there was quite a choice too (six of them). And they were predominantly of Western origin. We shared a peanut butter cheese cake chocolate brownie combination. It came with vanilla ice cream and was delicious – and also optically appealing.

On the whole, La Concepción knew to persuade with refined and well-prepared creations, and this in a pleasant casual setting. Yet there were also the one or other imperfections just as the tuna being not tender enough or the long wait for the dessert. Yet, I cannot imagine that you find a much better dining option in Valparaiso. And the pricing was alright too, around 100 USS$ for two with a bottle of wine.

Looking back & ahead on my Chile & Buenos Aires journey

That current post, going into best hotel and restaurants in Valparaiso, is my second to last one when it comes to my husband’s and my Chile and Buenos Aires trip. Next on my blog will be the one about Buenos Aires where I will do the same as here, going into one of the best hotels for demanding travelers and three restaurants for dining lovers.

So far I have reported on the same topic as to Santiago de Chile and our experience at three high-end hotels in Patagonia and the Atacama Desert. I started the whole with presenting a 20-day itinerary where My Google Map of the trip is in center. It includes all the luxury hotels we stayed, the foodie restaurants we ate and the activities we did. As to the latter, this section also comes with city tours in keywords for all the three cities we were (Santiago de Chile, Valparaiso and Buenos Aires). And of course, photos are there too ..

Date of stay: November 2023

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The Chile trip my husband and I did – here is the itinerary – took us also to its capital of Santiago. Of course it did, you cannot fly directly from the Atacama Desert to Patagonia, for example. So, we happened to stay here three times, twice in the city center, once at the airport. Never mind, although it was not love at first sight, we grew to like this city. It is laid out like a chessboard in a Spanish colonial style. However, only a few remains of the historical building structure remain. Find here a suggestion for a Santiago city tour in key words (under activities on My Google Map). When it comes to where to stay and dine in style in Santiago de Chile, I can advise on one of the best high-end hotels plus three great fine-dining restaurants, featured on the 50 Best Discovery list by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants.

I start with laying out where to opt for a hotel in Santiago de Chile best for exploring and dining options.

Where to stay in style in Santiago de Chile 

When heading to Santiago de Chile you have to decide whether you want to stay in the old town or in the new town. These two parts are separated by the Almeda Bernardo O’Higgins Avenue. It is named after the Chilean freedom fighter, who liberated the country from the Spanish. This avenue runs through almost the entire city from southwest to northeast. North from it is the old town, south from it the new town.

If you want to be near the main sights, I suggest that you opt for staying in the city’s old part, which is at the same time Santiago Downtown.

Lastarria neighborhood in Santiago’s old town

The best place to stay in Santiago’s old town is probably Barrio Lastarria. This rejuvenated historic neighborhood with cobblestone alleys and stately Belle Époque buildings has fast become one of the hippest areas in town. This is due to its wealth of museums, art centers, trendy shops and cool cafés. And it is also favorably located as to the historic Barrio Centro (Plaza de Armas) and the bohemian neighborhood of Bellavista.

The best luxury hotel in the vibrant Lastarria neighborhood is The Singular Santiago, belonging to the prestigious hotel collection of the Leading Hotels of the World. Before coming to how it is lodging here, some information on a possible alternative of staying in style in Santiago de Chile.

Trendy neighborhoods in Santiago’s new town

While Lastarria is the ideal base for sightseeing, most upscale restaurants are further away from downtown. You find them predominantly in the Las Condes District and also in the Vitacura one. Both are in the city’s northwest, maybe 15 to 30 minutes by car from the historic Barrio Centro.

This is also the place where most high-end hotels are. Think in this context of The Ritz-Carlton, W Santiago or Mandarin Oriental. Apart from upscale lodging and a thriving restaurant scene, you encounter here also some nightlife. A few theaters are located in “Sanhattan”, as this area is also called.

After going into our stay at one of the best luxury hotels in Santiago, the Lastarria hotel The Singular Santiago, I will let you know more about three great fine-dining restaurants in Santiago’s Las Condes and Vitacura Districts.

Staying in style at The Singular Hotel Santiago

I have mentioned The Singular Hotel already in another post about our Chile trip. And this was on the occasion of our Patagonian stay. Before opening their Santiago property in 2014, the owners have already established The Singular Patagonia in the Puerto Natales area.

Location

I already went into The Singular’s location above, Barrio Lastarria. This neighborhood, which is at The Singular’s doorstep, came back to life with the opening of the nearby Gabriela Mistral Cultural Center. And it did so after being the place to be in the first half of the 20th century. At this time, everything that had rank and name built here, adopting Europe’s architectural influences. Sadly, Lastarria became neglected later on when many families moved to more modern suburbs. Yet fortunately, the neighborhood’s infrastructure stayed whole, ready to be relived in the current time!

Ambiance/Staff

Although The Singular Santiago is a new hotel, it stands out from other such ones in town. It is for sure not comparable to the interchangeable chain accommodations in Santiago’s new town. Instead it is full of character, linked to the history and culture of Chile. It is designed in a neo-classical architectural style, as a tribute to its surroundings. With its dark front and two brickwork volumes it perfectly blends into the area.

As to The Singular’s interiors, it combines modernity with gone-by times. When entering the premises, you encounter a lobby/bar area that reminds you of a gentleman’s club from the Belle Époque. Dark brown armchairs, bronze salon tables and olive green sofas go hand in hand.

And the clubby ambiance extends to the ground-floor restaurant clad in checkerboard marble floors and dark-wood paneling.

The staff in the reception area, stylishly in dark suits, completes the scenario. And also their attitude fits. Service was excellent from start to finish on our stays, nothing was too much trouble. Of all the employees we encountered, the concierge, an Englishman, stood out as the most welcoming and engaging person. Yet all the others were up to the level too. And it was so nice to be remembered when returning two weeks after the first stay!

Rooms

You can make your choice out of 62 rooms in eight categories with rates starting at about 200 US$ in the low season (The Lastarria Room 25 sqm).

My husband and I went for The Singular Twin category. On our two stays, we had both times a room with the same layout however on different floors. While I found the accommodation good enough, it was not the thing I liked most at this hotel. It was spacious (36 sqm), yet a bit on the dark side. This because the room was long and narrow with only one window. Plus, it was located at the middle wing of the building, a bit set back.

Our The Singular Twin room was kept in warm, dark colors as the rest of the hotel. It came with a large table plus chairs and two sofa chairs with a small salon table. The luxurious bathroom, of which I was fond, was sizable and clad in marble. It was split into three areas with a large sink and tub in one, then a shower and a toilet each separated by individual glass doors.

Restaurants

For a hotel of this size there is quite a number of restaurants, four in total. The flagship spot is The Singular Restaurant with a French inspired locally sourced cuisine. Then there are two bars, on the one hand the Rooftop Bar

with a great view of the San Cristobal hill,

on the other hand Bar Merced on the ground floor. Finally, you find here also Café 294, a place for business or social meetings.

While my husband and I did not have dinner at The Singular Restaurant, we had breakfast here four times, which was good. We also had drinks at both bars on several occasions and enjoyed it. Among other things, we were served the best pisco sour of our whole Chile trip at the Rooftop Bar, which says a lot.

Other facilities

The Singular Santiago’s amenities include a spa with hydrotherapy room, sauna and steam bath plus a gym. And there is also a small rooftop pool.

Overall The Singular Santiago

We had two great stays here at this fabulous Lastarria property, with all the major sights close by. While The Singular Santiago is a new hotel, it pays tribute to the old-school glamour of this historic neighborhood, which was rejuvenated not long ago. The hotel is kept in a neo-classical architectural style to blend into its surroundings. Yet it is not afraid to be modern too. Rooms are affordable yet luxurious – especially the bathrooms – , and the two bars are a huge asset. The staff knows their job well, and they deliver an excellent service to their guests. My husband and I would return here in a heartbeat!

After these details to one of the best luxury hotels in Santiago, now the same as to the restaurant scene.

Dining in style in Santiago de Chile

I mentioned it above, the best restaurants in Santiago de Chile are not in the old town respectively in downtown, but in the new town. And you can find them in the Las Condes and Vitacura Districts in particular. This means that you cannot walk to them if you happen to stay in the old town. You even have to take into account a 30-minute drive to reach them as the traffic might be bad. While this is not exactly favorable, it is doable.

There is no Michelin Guide for Santiago de Chile to consult as to best gourmet spots in town. Alternatively, I relied on the 50 Best Discovery list by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants. As we did not want to eat 10 or more courses – we dined out every day of our 20-night vacation – , we did not consider for instance the famous Boragó. Instead we rather opted for establishments with a “three- to four-course approach.” By chance, we happened to eat at two restaurants with Nikkei cuisine (combination of Japanese and Peruvian elements). I start with those before coming to one specializing in fish and seafood.

1. Restaurant Karai by Mitsuharu Santiago de Chile

Some background & setting

Restaurant Karai by Mitsuharu is chef Mitsuharu “Micha” Tsumara’s outpost in town, opened in 2017. He is considered Latin America’s best chef according to The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, and this at Restaurant Maido in Lima. The Santiago branch is located at the fancy W Santiago Hotel in the Las Condes District. It is helmed by chef Gerson Céspedes.

If you wonder about the name of Karai, it has a double meaning. It means “together” in the Quetchua language and “spicy” in Japanese. Not only the W Santiago Hotel’s appearance is striking, but this is also true for Restaurant Karai by Mitsuharu. Zen decor awaits you here with lots of wood and natural light. And we were exceptionally warmly welcomed.

Food, overall & price

As to food offerings, there is an extensive menu of Sashimi, Tiraditos, Ceviche, Nigiris, Pa’picar-Otsumami, Los Fuertes and Desserts. Instead of going for the “experience” – the chef sends dishes of the day – , my husband and I chose ourselves (I had prepared for it beforehand).

We shared a Tiradito (de Orilla), catch of the day with yellow chili sauce, ponzu, cilantro, scallops tartar and shari cracker.

And the same is true for the classic Gyoza, stuffed with pork and shrimp with spicy ponzu sauce. Then we had individual mains, Kansai Yakimeshi from the Los Fuertes section for me, Japanese styled fried rice with seafood, salmon, shrimp omelette, ankake sauce and chilli oil. My husband had a dish from the Pa’picar-Otsumami part, Yakiniku de Cordero, a rack of lamb with yakiniku sauce, chimichurri nikkei, chickpea cream and olluco pickle. For dessert we shared Ice Tea and Yuzu, a pistachio and matcha tea biscuit with papaya sorbet and yuzu-chocolate cream.

And what can I say – I am no expert in Nikkei cuisine – , yet dining at Karai by Mitsuharu opened up new worlds of taste for us. What we got was creative, expertly done and nicely arranged. And everything was extremely delicious! We enjoyed the dinner very much. Also the serving sizes seemed adequate to us. Service was professional and did not interfere when it turned out that we already had made our choice on ordering. Price wise, the check (about 150 US$ with a bottle of wine) was reasonable, no complaints.

2. Restaurant Osaka Cocina Nikkei Santiago de Chile

Some background & setting

Restaurant Osaka Cocina Nikkei in Santiago de Chile is not a standalone restaurant, but part of a Lima based collection. The Osaka brand currently operates nine restaurants in seven South American cities and an outpost in Miami. And it has existed for over 20 years. As to its Santiago branch, it used to be at the W Santiago Hotel before it moved to its current location in Vitacura in 2017. The chef here is Ciro Watanabe.

The restaurant is situated in an affluent neighborhood – we almost felt like we were in a North American city. And there are other similar – upscale – dining spots nearby. Osaka Santiago encompasses two floors. There is a dining room plus an outdoor area on the ground floor. In the basement you find the sushi counter plus another dining room. The décor is feng shui-like with lots of wood. As to the staff, they needed some time to get going. Yet with time, the service became better.

Food, overall & price

The menu here is divided in two parts. On the one hand, there is the Nikkei Bar with Sashimi, classic Nigiris, Ceviches, Tiraditos, OSK Style Nigiris and Makimono. On the other hand, you find here also Peruvian Izakaya with Zensai and Tokusen dishes.

My husband and I shared first Tiradito Perú (white fish, Nikkei uchucuta, pickled onions, sweet potato)

and an Izakaya from the Zensai section. It was Chirashi Causa (yellow potato, salmon tataki, crab salad, ikura, acevichada sauce). Then we did the same for two items from the Izakaya Tokusen part. These were Shiromi Brasa (roasted white fish, almond chimichurri and Peruvian peppers) and Kuroi Ramen (charred seafood, ramen noodles, curry squid ink cream, cherry tomato, spicy mayo). We ended the meal with sharing an Amai Toast, which was a caramelized brioche with yuzu curd, cheese ice cream and miso butterscotch.

Again, we had the same feelings as at Restaurant Karai by Mitsuharu. Each dish provided plenty excitement to our tastebuds. Everything was skillfully crafted, refined and attractively served. Also the size of portions was good. Service became better the longer we were here. The ambiance was pleasant, although for me personally it was a bit too much on the dark side (we were seated near the window). As to the prices, we found them okay for what you get. Just as with its mentioned competitor, we paid around 150 US$ for the two of us (with a bottle of wine).

3. Restaurant Olam Santiago de Chile

Some background & setting

Olam ranks 68th on the extended Latin America’s 50 Restaurants 2023 list. It is the only one of the three mentioned Santiago restaurants that was voted into it. Sergio Barroso is at the helm at this dining spot on the second floor of the 45 By Director Hotel in the Las Condes District. The property has been open since 2019. Before, he was at Restaurant 040 in the nearby Providencia District. Originally from Madrid, Barroso worked with Ferran Adrìa at El Bulli and Denis Martin in Vevey/Switzerland.

The restaurant’s design is rather special, some may say a bit peculiar. The dining room is kept in high gloss white and poison green. Huge white columns are combined with green chairs featuring a net-like pattern. Another eye catcher are the curvaceous chandeliers. The whole thing appears quite futuristic. The staff was relaxed and composed throughout the evening.

Food, overall & price

The chef has an innovative take on fish and seafood. And the dishes are ideal for sharing, what my husband and I did. We ordered 5 savory and 2 sweet dishes.

The savory ones were the following: Tina and Miso (bonito tartare & rice with ginger, ponzu oil, miso mayonnaise & wasabi),

grilled wild green asparagus (in two cooking methods, tempura & grilled with chili-zumac mayonnaise foam), smoked wagyu tartare (in oak wood with lacquered Chinese bread, red curry teriyaki & sichimi togarashi), blue crab Txangurro with cognac & yuzu hollandaise (flamed crab stew in cognac, typical of the Basque Country, gratin with hollandaise) and ravioli of smoked trout from Patagonia (with white vermouth & mascarpone cream). The sweet ones consisted of: white chocolate, peanut praline and rose (creamy white chocolate, savarin sponge cake with peanut praline & pear granita) and roasted manchego cheese (manchego cake filled with blackberry jam & cassis liqueur cream).

And the food was superb! I very much liked the chef’s eclectic creations influenced by Asian, Western & South American cuisines. Each dish was well composed, with unexpected elements in each that made it a truly memorable dining experience. As to the ambiance, on arrival I found it a bit cold, but later on when the lamps were lit it became more pleasant. When it comes to pricing, I found the check (about 150 US$ for the two of us with a bottle of wine) reasonable enough. Said that, we did not choose one of the more expensive items on the menu, for instance the langoustines.

My mini-series about a Chile & Buenos Aires trip

I mentioned our Chile itinerary at the beginning, of course we visited not only Santiago but other places in Chile (plus Buenos Aires) too. If you should be interested, we went to Patagonia and the Atacama Desert where I go into the luxury hotels we stayed (and their onsite restaurants). And there will be more posts about our city stays in Valparaiso and Buenos Aires, comparable to this one about Santiago. It is always about best luxury hotels and fine-dining restaurants worth the money spent on at the respective places.

Date of stay: November 2023

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As a significant stage in the life of my husband and mine is about to come to an end – more info to follow later this year – , we  treated us to a special journey. It is about a once in a lifetime trip to Chile. We had thought hard about where to go in South America. After visiting Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands a few years ago, we had been a bit unsure where to head next. Brazil seemed too dangerous for us, Peru rather over-run by tourists. So, we opted for Chile. And this mainly because of its many natural wonders. As always when traveling we were looking for a luxury trip to Chile. While we usually try to avoid overspending when vacationing, we miserably failed here – so much I can tell you already. But first things first.

I start with some thoughts about where to go in Chile for luxury-minded globetrotters and then come to the actual itinerary.

Traveling Chile in style

While we first thought we had had plenty of time (20 days) to explore Chile, we soon found out that this was not necessarily the case. Out of four highlights – Atacama Desert, Patagonia, Easter Island and Lake District – , we had to leave away the latter two. First of all, we “lost” three days because we had a stopover in Buenos Aires.

We opted for this not only because of this city’s beauty but also due to less flight costs when doing so (minus a bit more than 2,000 US$ for two). And second, we longed for a non-rushed itinerary. Having said that we wanted to see different parts of Chile, not only one. Yet Patagonia is usually a must for every Chile traveler boasting varied landscapes with impressive glaciers, bizarre rock formations, blue lakes and extensive steppes.

Patagonia (south Chile, from Puerto Montt to Cape Horn) luxury trip

You have to know that you can easily spend four weeks in Patagonia without seeing it all. It is said that you need about two weeks to do the mayor things here, and this in a quick way. As you might know, Patagonia has a harsh climate. As my husband and I are not too much into spending lots of time at such latitudes, we limited our time here to five days. This is about the minimum time you should come and only allows you to explore one place. My husband and I chose Patagonia’s crown jewel. This is about the Torres del Paine National Park in Southern Patagonia (see post about luxury hotels here). You can reach it by flying into Puerto Natales from Santiago in just over three hours. Then you have to drive another one and half hours to get to the national park’s entrance.

A second Chile destination: Atacama Desert (north Chile, from Copiapó to Peruvian border)

If you want to combine Patagonia with a second destination in Chile – and if you like nature – , then the Atacama Desert is your best option (see post about luxury hotels here). While the Lake District also seems to be worthwhile traveling, Atacama is something special. It is not only the driest nonpolar desert in the world but also features diverse landscapes including geysers, lagoons, volcanoes and crusty hills. As to Easter Island, you have to take into account a flight of five and a half hours in order to get there. To enjoy the island’s cultural heritage and natural beauty to the full, I suppose you should plan at least a four-day stay. So, you need almost one week for this undertaking.

Thus, we went for Patagonia and the Atacama Desert. And to be honest, both of them are not exactly off the beaten path. They suffer from overtourism, especially the place we chose in Patagonia (Torres del Paine National Park). I fully realized this only after our journey. Yet, also in the hindsight, we would make the same choices. The Lake District, the most viable alternative to South Patagonia, is considered as “Chilean Switzerland”. And we as Swiss not necessarily need more Switzerland when traveling.

Santiago & Valparaiso as urban complements to Patagonia & Atacama Desert

Around the two nature highlights of Patagonia and the Atacama Desert we built in a number of urban stays. On the one hand, we were three times in Santiago (post about staying & dining in style) – once at an airport hotel as you cannot fly directly from the Atacama Desert to Patagonia.

On the other hand, we made a three-day visit to Valparaiso (post about staying & dining in style) – a one and a half hour drive away from Santiago.

This beautiful port city is Chile’s second largest and known for its colorful houses built on the many hills that surround it – and Valparaiso is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

In total, we had five days in Santiago and three days in Valparaiso. That is a lot of time, but as mentioned, we were looking for a non-rushed itinerary. You can easily reduce the Santiago stay to three days – you probably need one of them for a stopover between the Atacama Desert and Patagonia. As to Valparaiso, two days might be enough to see the mayor sights. We had thought about exploring the wine regions near Santiago. Yet we did not come across a suitable hotel, and so we let it be.

After setting the scene as to this luxury Chile trip, I jump into the details of our Buenos Aires and Chile itinerary.

My Google Map of Chile & Buenos Aires in style, a non-rushed 20-day itinerary 

My Google Map illustrates the 20-day journey to Chile and Buenos Aires my husband and I undertook in the first half of November 2023.

You find here all the luxury hotels (Patagonia, Atacama Desert, Santiago de Chile, Valparaiso and Buenos Aires) we stayed

and the foodie restaurants (Santiago de Chile, Valparaiso and Buenos Aires) we dined,

complete with pictures. In addition, I included all the activities we did,

again with photos.

As far as our stays in Patagonia around Puerto Natales and in the Atacama Desert in the San Pedro area are concerned, I listed all the half and full days trip guided by the hotels we stayed.

With regard to the cities we visited (Buenos Aires, Santiago and Valparaiso), I indicated the routes we took to explore them (self-guided).

In the following, there is also a travel plan of this luxury Chile trip with the number of nights we spent at the respective location (plus hotel).

• 3 nights in Buenos Aires (Park Hyatt Buenos Aires)
• 2 nights in Santiago (The Singular Santiago)
• 4 nights in San Pedro de Atacama (Awasi Atacama)
• 1 night in Santiago (airport, Holiday Inn Santiago)
• 2 nights in Puerto Natales (The Singular Patagonia)
• 3 nights in Torres del Paine National Park (Tierra Patagonia)
• 3 nights in Valparaiso (Casa Higueras)
• 2 nights in Santiago (The Singular Santiago)

What is next about Chile & Buenos Aires

While I provided an overview of our Chile and Buenos 20-day luxury trip in this blogpost, my next posts will be about the details of the respective stops we did. When doing so, I will focus on the hotels and restaurants we visited. Most of them were high-end, as it was a luxury Chile trip. At one point or another, I will also cast a look at activities, yet these will no be at the center of my attention. Instead, refer to My Google Map of Chile & Buenos Aires in style where I have listed all the things we did, complete with (numbered) pictures.

My Chile short series will cover following topics:

• Patagonia (my post): Hotel The Singular Patagonia (half board) and Hotel Tierra (all-inclusive)
• Atacama Desert (my post): Hotel Awasi Atacama (all-inclusive)
• Santiago (my post): Hotel The Singular Santiago and three foodie restaurants
• Valparaiso (my post): Hotel Casa Higueras and three high-end dining spots
• Buenos Aires (my post): Hotel Park Hyatt Buenos Aires and three gourmet restaurants

Date of stays: November 2023

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I can say about myself that I have dined at all the Michelin (starred) restaurants in Gardone Riviera on Lake Garda. There are four of them in total, and one of them is very popular. It is so sought-after that it is difficult to secure a table here. Before coming to this well-liked place, first to the “hotel restaurant” at Grand Hotel Fasano. This is the luxury lodging where my husband and I stayed recently on our 14-day trip through north Italy and west Switzerland (hotel post/itinerary post). The end will make another hotel restaurant on the lake plus an osteria in Gardone Riviera’s uphill historic center.

There is a lot to say about any of these four upscale dining spots in Gardone Riviera. Notwithstanding that, I will try to focus on conveying their most important aspects. Seen across all these Michelin restaurants, each of them provided good food, friendly service and a pleasant ambiance. Yet, there were of course considerable differences between them too.

1. Restaurant Il Fagiano (at Grand Hotel Fasano), one Michelin star

About

Il Fagiano Restaurant, Grand Hotel Fasano’s flagship dining spot, has been helmed by Maurizio Bufi since 2022. The chef, originally from southern Italy, moved here from another hotel in the area, Villa Giulia. This is also the place where he gained a Michelin star. Before, he had worked at another local lodging, the Lefay Resort & Spa. Earlier, Maurizio Bufi spent also some time in Switzerland, in the renown Badrutt’s Palace in Saint Moritz.

What to expect at Il Fagiano?

In terms of setting, there is an elegant dining room and a pleasing terrace with lake view.

As to Maurizio Buffi’s cuisine, it is creative and he knows how to play with textures and flavors so that a sublime culinary experience results.

On our evening at Il Fagiano, three tasting menus with six to seven courses at 110 to 130 € were on offer. All the dishes being part of these multi-course menus were also available à la carte. With the latter, starters costed 30 €, the first courses (pasta and risotto) 30 €, the mains 40 € and the desserts 20 €. We went for the tasting menu Essenza, with six courses.

How was it?

My husband and I were lucky enough to having been able to dine on the lovely terrace. The setting exuded casual elegance, and we felt well at ease here. Service was faultless throughout the evening, and the dinner was paced just right.

Food wise, we went for one of the tasting menus, Essenza with six courses. Everything we had was great, be it the first dish around the tomato, the pasta course (rabbit ravioli) or the main, red mullet, arranged by the chef himself at our table. The meal was inventive, balanced and varied. And a plus was that it also reasonably priced. And since November 2023, Il Fagiano has also held a Michelin star!

2. Restaurant Lido 84, one Michelin star & No 7 of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants

About

This is an unbelievably popular restaurant, you have to make your reservation at precisely the first possible point of time stated on their website (two to three months before). This because it is “sold out” in three minutes on weekends or five minutes on weekdays. When I did our booking, I was one day late and ended up on the waiting list. Luckily, we were informed three weeks before the desired date that we made it into the place!

The Camanini brothers – Riccardo the chef, Giancarlo working front of house – opened the dining spot in 2014. Before, Riccardo Camanini had overseen the kitchen at Hotel Villa Fiordaliso – see below – for 15 long years. Six months after opening Lido 84, the restaurant got a Michelin star and in 2021, it debuted The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list at No 15 (now No 7).

What do expect at Lido 84?

First of all, Lido 84’s setting is breathtaking. It is in a nice country house surrounded by a superb garden and this right on Lake Garda’s shore. Apart from the eclectic interiors,

there is a lovely outdoor area where you can have your meal only steps from the lake.

You are in here for exquisite Italian food which is a bit different from the one you usually get. The chef is strong at experimenting in the kitchen, combining old recipes with state-of-the-art techniques. His signature dish is Rigatoni Cacio e Pepe en Vessie, this is pasta with Pecorino cheese and pepper prepared in a pig’s bladder. The finish takes place tableside, which is quite a sight, and a delicious affair indeed!

Furthermore, he has a knack for art on the plate. There were two such dishes with semi-permanent status on the menu, spaghetti with yeast crumble (exposed at San Francisco MoMA) and risotto with black garlic and berries (dedicated to a local artist).

On our dinner, we had the choice of two menus – Menu Fluctuations with seven or nine courses at 130 or 150 € respectively Menu 4 e ½ with five courses at 140 €. You could add the mentioned pig bladder pasta for 20 € to both menus. The same is true for the two art pasta dishes, described above (only Menu Fluctuations). Furthermore, there is an à la carte option. Starters are available from 40 to 50 €, pasta at 40 €, fish at 50 or 60 €, neither meat nor fish (400°C Eggplant) at 50 € and meat at 50 €. Then there is the Grande Carte Des Desserts from 15 to 25 €. And the latter was by far the most comprehensive section!

How was it?

Lido 84 is the restaurant I liked most here in Gardone Riviera because of its breathtaking setting by the lake. It used to be a lido – hence the name – , a beach club for vacationeers. And we were lucky to be seated outside, which was very enjoyable.

After we had studied the menu, Giancarlo Camanini, the restaurant manager, inquired whether we were here for the the first time, which we answered with yes. Consequently, he recommended that we should include the two mentioned “art dishes”, and this in addition to the pig bladder pasta we had already ordered with the Menu Fluctuations. And so we had three pasta/risotto dishes, which I found a bit too numerous. Furthermore, we had two seafood courses to start the meal plus sweetbread (Giancarlo Camanini had asked whether this would be okay) and a Bavette steak. The end made two different desserts to share.

While everything was immaculate prepared, utterly delicious and wonderfully arranged (especially the risotto), the menu felt not that balanced to me. For me the share of starchy food (three dishes) was too high. And we got no vegetables at all, throughout the evening! Except if you count in the mashed potatoes (half potato/half butter), which I would not do. Furthermore, it was quite “heavy stuff” we got, not only the starchy food and the mashed potatoes. The oyster (one of the starters) was gratinated and the Torta di Rose, yeast-based pastry with lemon zabaione (one of the desserts), is no light fare either.

Overall Restaurant Lido 84 Gardone di Riviera

You could notice from my description of the food that the experience at Lido 84 was not necessarily the one I expected (modernist, new taste cooking). For me, it was comfort food on a high level, no less, but not more, either. I have already mentioned the dreamlike setting, which is hard to beat.

As to the service, it was good but not outstanding. Often, chefs served their dishes themselves with explications, which was nice. However, the staff who cleared the tables was not that knowledgeable. And the sommelier was somewhat offended when my husband said that the 2019 Barolo won with its longer opening, although he had asked for a feedback about the wines before (we had the wine pairing).

While I found the individual dishes exquisite, I could not understand how they could propose such a misbalanced menu to us. Three out of seven courses consisted of starchy food, and there were no vegetables whatsoever. In my view, they should know better. But probably there will be no second shot for us here as I cannot imagine going through the hassle of the reservation process at Lido 84 once again.

3. Restaurant at Hotel Villa Fiordaliso, Michelin listed

About

This is the restaurant where the chef at Lido 84, Riccardo Camanini, worked before. And it is still a good address for foodies, although the actual chef here, Dino Colantuono, cannot totally keep up with his predecessor’s performance. You are here – once again – in a historic house, built at the end of the 19th century. This time it is an Art Nouveau villa, which is now a hotel, with five rooms only.

What to expect at Villa Fiordaliso?

The setting is beautiful, directly overlooking Lake Garda’s tranquil waters. There is an outdoor setting – under a tent-like structure, which is not so nice to look at. There must also be an indoor dining room, yet I could not make it out when I ventured inside for the ladies’s room.

With regard to culinary offerings, there is a six-course tasting offer at 130 €. In case you wish to dine à la carte, no problem, it is possible too. Starters amounted from 30 to 50 € (the latter with foie gras), first courses (pasta/risotto) from 25 to 45 € (the latter with lobster), mains from to 45 to 55 € and desserts from 15 to 20 €. While I found the tasting menu adequately priced, I considered the à la carte options as a bit over the top.

How was it?

While I found the setting wonderful – it is the former residence of Mussolini’s mistress – ,

I did not like the tent-like structure above and around me in the outdoor area. But I imagine it comes handy in case the weather is “borderline like”. Otherwise, the ambiance was pleasant with a maître d’ – Or even the hotel director? – being  a warm host ensuring each client felt looked after. When he heard that we wanted the tasting menu (130 €), he recommended having the wine pairing too, which we had – and liked.

When it comes to food, I liked the starters (beef carpaccio and mozzarella three ways) and the starchy dishes (risotto with shrimps and cheese ravioli) best. The fish dish (grouper) was good and the dessert was not more than solid. It was the same we had at Lido 84 (Torta di Rose). This time, the pastry was good, however the zabaione was much too sweet for my liking. And the second dessert, Fior di Latte ice cream, was not exceptional.

Overall, you get well made classic Italian food with a twist at Villa Fiordaliso. Some dishes were original (mozzarella three ways), others were rather normal (fish). While the food experience was not on the cutting edge of fine dining, it was a perfectly satisfying meal.

4. Restaurant Osteria Antico Brolo, Michelin listed

About

This is the only dining spot we visited that was not on the lake, and you have no water views either. However, its setting is highly presentable too. Osteria Antico Brolo is located in Gardone Sopra. This is where the actual historic town center is situated. And it convinces with colorful houses, densely vegetated balconies and lovely squares.

Antico Brolo is helmed by Enrico and Marcello, two friends and associates, the latter since 2010. This was when the Osteria opened in a historic house from the 1700s in the old town. And for a few years now, there have been some guest rooms on site too.

What to expect at Osteria Antico Brolo?

The location amidst the historic old town of Gardone Riviera is nice, especially so the courtyard.

As to its interiors, there are three small dining rooms of a rather modest appearance – it is probably not much different in here compared to its origins in the 17th century. A highlight is the tiny balcony where only two guests can have a seat. The ambiance here is rustic and relaxed.

When it comes to food, you get regional cuisine with seasonal quality ingredients at Osteria Antico Brolo. There is a focus on fish yet meat dishes are also available. And the offerings are surprisingly affordable. On our visit, there were two tasting menu, All Truffle (four courses for 65 €) and Freshwater (four courses for 46 €). A la carte is available too, starters from 18 to 21 €, first courses (especially pasta & gnocchi) from 16 to 23 €, mains from 23 to 26 € and desserts for 9 €.

How was it?

This laid-back restaurant is a good addition to the other three by the lake, which are all more on the elegant side. While Enrico worked the front of the house, I suppose Marcello was in the kitchen. Service was friendly, efficient and down-to-earth. We felt well at ease here. As to to food, we opted for the Freshwater tasting menu. The feast started with citrus marinated trout and continued with pasta paired with char. The main was pike with polenta, and the end made a lemon sorbet accompanied by a fruit salad.

Everything we had was well prepared and tasty. As to food presentation, there was rather a no frills approach. And the portions were generous, especially the pasta dish. When it comes to pricing, you get here very good value.

Overall Michelin Restaurants in Gardone Riviera

While the “hotel restaurants” (Il Fagiano at Grand Hotel Fasano and Restaurant at Villa Fiordaliso) provide an elegant white tablecloths setting, the two other offer a more casual fine dining experience. As to the former two, Il Fagiano is more on the creative side, Villa Fiordaliso on the classic one. Out of the latter two, Lido 84, is the more upscale one, with Italian cuisine that is partly experimental yet always delicious. Whereas the individual dishes were convincing, I did not like how the menu (that was proposed to us) was put together (too much starchy food and no vegetables). As to Osteria Antico Brolo, it is the most down-to-earth eatery of all the Michelin restaurants in Gardone Riviera with regional and seasonal food.

Looking back and forward

This is the last post to the Italian part of a 14-day journey through north Italy and west Switzerland. It started in South Tyrol (Merano and Bolzano area) and continued to Lake Garda – the last post was about a luxury hotel here, Grand Hotel Fasano, the current one about all the four Michelin restaurants in Gardone Riviera.

The final blogpost of this mini-series covers the two only Michelin starred restaurant in Montreux, the lovely town on Lake Geneva. This place boasts – as Gardone Riviera – a Mediterranean-like climate, which lets grow plants that you usually not encounter in these latitudes.

Date of visits: September 2023

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Ubud is not only Bali’s cultural heart but also its culinary hotspot. There is quite a number of (casual) fine dining restaurants here that are a must for every foodie. During my recent stay in Ubud in central Bali I had dinner at some of the best gourmet dining spots. And I made some really mind-blowing gastronomic experiences. Which, I have to admit, was something that I did not think was possible. Although I knew that there were culinary gems around.

On an earlier trip, my husband and I accidentally passed the town’s current culinary showpiece, Restaurant Locavore. And this was six months after its opening in November 2013, when its future success was not forseeable. We thought it made a good impression, went in and got a reservation for the following day. We were thrilled by the dinner at the time! Less so, when we wanted to return two years later, and it was fully booked months in advance. So, we had to wait until last November to dine here again. And it was once again incredible! More later.

Before coming to the individual restaurants, a quick look at Bali’s gourmet restaurant scene.

Bali’s fine dining scene

While there is the one or another gourmet spot on the island outside of Ubud, the place to go as serious foodie is definitely this town in central Bali. The pioneer of Ubud’s fine dining scene is chef Chris Salans with his Mozaic Restaurant, opened in 2001. The American French chef has skillfully combined local ingredients with western technique in a nice tropical setting ever since. I personally have not dined here yet. On our recent stay, the dining spot was still closed due to the pandemic. Chris Salans reopened it in December, partnering with a younger ex-associate chef.

In the aftermath of the early bird of Mozaic, there was the already mentioned Restaurant Locavore that formed the scene. Since then, there has been quite a development in terms of the arrival of other promising (casual) fine dining spots. I name here chef Will Goldfarb with its Restaurant Room4Dessert and chef Nic Vanderbeeken with its Restaurant CasCades at Hotel Viceroy, both opened in 2014.

In 2015, Restaurant Blanco Par Mandif by chef Mandif Warokka followed, at the same time as Restaurant Kubu at Hotel Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve, by chef Bayu Retno Timur. I have been to all of the newer establishments except for Nic Vanderbeeken’s place (who changed to the new Restaurant Apéritif at Hotel Viceroy in 2019). So, I can let you know about what to expect at them. I find it amazing how the former fine dining backwater was able to turn into a vibrant culinary hotspot! And hence, there is no Michelin Guide for Bali, your best source probably are the lists at The World’s 50 Best Restaurants site.

5 top Ubud (casual) fine dining restaurants

I start with four of the best (casual) fine dining spots in Ubud (respectively Bali). From which, I visited three on my recent 2022 stay in Bali and one on an earlier occasion in 2016. Furthermore, there is one more, a second restaurant of a big name here. And it is a place that is a bit more down to earth than the others.

Restaurant Locavore

A wild ride through the most ingenious creations made by two enterprising chefs using local produce only

Locavore is the local gastronomic showpiece. It is definitely the place to go for a foodie if you have only one dinner in Ubud. But make sure to book well in advance as it is very popular. This is especially the case at the moment as the restaurant is coming to an end as one knows it. That does not mean that the busy team behind Locavore retires from Ubud’s culinary scene. Quite the opposite, it just enters a new phase. There is a new project under construction and opening in the second quarter of 2023 (see more). Until this happens, you still can enjoy the creations at the “old” Locavore. Precisely, you can taste their favorite fifty dishes from nine years of restaurant history, and this in the form of three different menus over the next time.

My husband and I had the pleasure of being served Exhibition Menu No 2, and this on the restaurant’s ninth birthday on the third of November 2022! Wow, what an experience! You get here, as the name says it, local produce. Chefs Eelke Plasmeijer (a born Dutchman) and Ray Adriansyah (from Jakarta) know how to enchant their clientele. They bring diners on a journey of discovery of the unknown. A series of dishes are served that surprise at every bite!

The 18-course menu costs 84 SFR/US$ and is divided into four explorations. You can include a drinks pairing for additional 33 SFR/US$, which I recommend. You get creative drinks, some with alcohol, others not (but no wine). And it really takes the dinner to a whole new level. The ambiance at Locavore was relaxed, the staff was friendly and knowledgeable, the service was adequately fast (we spent three hours and a quarter here).

Restaurant Room4Dessert

A discovery trip through Will Goldfarb’s sweet world (which also includes savory snacks for a start) in three parts

When my husband and I walked by the Restaurant Room4Dessert in Ubud’s outskirts in 2016, I thought that it would be nice to eat here. I had heard about Will Goldfarb’s place (opened in 2014), but I did not want to drag my husband to a dessert-only meal (he has not such a sweet tooth as I). Much has changed since then! The property of the American born pastry chef grew from a 100 sqm venue to a 1,000 sqm one with a garden that has 300 different plants and 100 types of trees! They all flow in his recipes in some way or the other. And Will Goldfarb was named The World’s Best Pastry Chef at the World’s 50 Best Restaurants awards in 2021!

When checking out the dining spot for dinner in November 2022, I found out that the experience was now different. You are in for a meal in three parts. After a tour through the garden you get seven savory snacks at the bar, seven desserts in the dining room and seven petit fours in the garden.

On our visit, it was up to Season 13 Part 2, The Golden Age.

The menu amounted to 77 SFR/US$ including spirits (for the second part), which we had. Alternatively, you can choose it with a spiritless tasting (65 SFR/US$) or without any drinks (53 SFR/US$).

There is young team of amiable and laid-back locals that takes care of you, overseen by the impressive personality of Will Goldfarb. The pastry chef is present wherever needed, has a word with a staff member or with his guests. I found his performance admirable! The same is true for the food. Already the snacks were persuasive. Yet the sweet treats were simply amazing! They started light and and became gradually richer. The treat is really worth it, even my husband was blown away! And the meal was paced just right, we were here three hours and a quarter.

Restaurant Blanco Par Mandif

Haute Indonesian degustation menus with a twist in an elegant, intimate setting

If you look for a fine dining restaurant that radiates classical elegance and an intimate feel, then this it.

Of course, food is a highlight too, you get here a modern take on Indonesian cuisine. And you clearly note that chef Mandif Warokka also drew inspiration from his stays abroad. After his first restaurant, Teatro Gastroteque serving French cuisine with a Japanese twist, he opened his current one inside the Blanco Renaissance Museum complex in 2015. It is small, with only 20 seats, boasting views of the Tjampuhan river.

This was the most expensive meal we had in Ubud. There are four menus to choose from, all with seven courses except the fourth one. First, Degustation (Adiboga), with seafood and meat, costing 116 SFR/US$. Second, Vegetarian (Giriloka) for 73 SFR SFRf/US$. Third, Pescatarian (Tirtaloka), with seafood, that amounts to 110 SFR/US$. Finally, there is Hakkaisan, a Sake dinner menu, with seafood and meat, paired with Sake, available for 134 SFR/US$. My husband and I had opted for the degustation menu, we had to make our choice already at the time of our booking.

As to the food, it was immaculate, in every aspect, and inventive too. The ambiance inhere was very quiet, almost serene. The hand-washing ritual that the a staff member performed with us at the start of the meal contributed to this impression. Staff was very polite and attentive. There were not many diners around on our visit, we had booked “the first slot” right after the restaurant opened. Luckily, I have to say, because after the fifth course, we heard a loud bang. And then the electricity went out and never came back until we left. They were able to provide the two remaining dishes and the petit fours, but of course the experience was compromised. What a pity! Yet it happens.

Restaurant Kubu at Hotel Mandapa

Well-made Mediterranean-European cuisine in bamboo dining cocoons

Our dinner at the signature restaurant at Hotel Mandapa, a Ritz Carlton Reserve, dates back to 2016, so my impressions may be somewhat blurred. I well remember that I was not so enthusiastic about our table in one of the nine private dining cocoons just by the Ayung river. Although this is supposed to be a popular seating, I would have preferred a regular table. It was a hot and humid evening so that I considered the cocoon as a bit constricting with no wind coming in. Anyway, these huts are an original idea for sure!

Another thing that I did not forget that it was pitch dark in these cocoons. We could almost not make out what we were getting served. This is always a pity, especially when the food is artistically arranged on the plates. And that was definitely the case here! Yet also the food quality and preparation knew how to persuade. Chef Bayu Retno Timur oversees the kitchen here, who looks back at 14 years of experience in the culinary industry within 5-star hotels. You get here well-executed Mediterranean inspired dishes. They are made with premium ingredients and served by accommodative and informative staff.

You can dine here à la carte (starters from 12 to 29 SFR/US$, mains from 17 to 34 SFR/US$, desserts 9 SFR/US$) or opt for one of the two tastings menus (The Gourmet: 7 courses for 76 SFR/US$ / The Essential: 5 courses for 54 SFR/US$). When my husband and I had dinner here in 2016, we had The Essential (then Degustation 6 for 46 SFR/US$), and we liked what we got! One final recommendation for outside guests: arrive early enough to take in the views!

Restaurant Nusantara by Locavore

Contemporary Indonesian family-style dining by the flourishing food empire of Locavore

Locavore – see the dining spot that I mentioned first – is more than just a restaurant. Chef-owners Eelke Plasmeijer and Ray Adriansyah, who are beyond it, have developed it much further. There is the casual dining concept of Locavore To Go, the cocktail bars Night Rooster and Club Soda in Canggu, the Local Parts butcher shop with its Butcher’s Table, the R&D unit of Localab and Agency X, a F&B consultant company. And last but not least, Nusantara is also part of this family.

Nusantara by Locavore was opened in 2016, named after the Javanese word for archipelago. You have to know that Indonesia consists of 17,000 islands. Nusantara has made it its mission to showcase their signature dishes. Each is marked on the menu with its origin and is made with indigenous ingredients. The place is helmed by chef I Putu Dodik Sumarjana, who has worked his way up at Locovore. To prepare for the work here, he and his team travelled to different Indonesian islands to sample dishes and learn to cook them.

While Nusantara is not an actual fine dining restaurant, it is much more than a simple eatery showcasing local food. You get here traditional Indonesian cuisine in a contemporary experience. The menu changes regularly, but some favorites remain just as jukut kelor mesanten, a rich soup of moringa leaves, ground-spice paste and torch ginger cooked in a coconut – they roast the coconut over an open fire in front of the dining spot. It is about family-style dining here, you order a number of dishes and share them with your table companion. They recommend 2-3 small dishes (4-8 SFR/US$), 1-2 big dishes (9-14 SFR/US$), 1 rice (2 SFR/US$) and 1 dessert (3 SFR/US$) for two persons, which I found just right.

Everything we had was delicious! Staff is friendly and helpful. The setting is laid-back and charming with its rattan partitions and Batik prints.

Overall/Looking back

In this post I highlighted some of the best (casual) fine dining restaurants in Ubud. This town’s gastronomic scene has been undergoing a great development in the last decade. Serious foodies coming to Bali are no longer forced to leave this island disappointed, at least when it comes to dining in style. After eating at five of the top restaurants on the Islands of the Gods, I would like to give the remaining ones on my list (Restaurant Mozaic and Restaurant Apéritif) a try on a further trip!

In my Bali mini-series I also wrote about other topics than dining (this is the last post about the island). My first blogpost was about how to get the most out of a trip as demanding traveler (general info and where to go for sights plus luxury hotels). The second went into some of the best (easy) walks on the Island of the Gods. And the third informed about actual accommodations to choose here when longing to stay in style, divided by location.

Last date of stay: November 2022

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My last post was about the oldest luxury hotel in Madeira, now it is about the latest one, Les Suites at The Cliff Bay. As the name suggests, it is not entirely independent from another hotel, The Cliff Bay. Yet this brings only benefits. Les Suites at The Cliff Bay features almost all the facilities of a typical five-star, despite being boutique. And in addition, you can also use the ones from the mother property. In this regard, its direct sea access is the most important one. All taken together, I think it is the ideal place for staying and dining in style in Madeira!

Before diving into the details about this hotel, here an overview about my other posts on this island in the Atlantic Ocean. I started with all the necessary travel information before listing all the (truly) luxury hotels in Madeira. Then – as mentioned – I looked into the oldest and most traditional resort here, the Reid’s Palace. And my next (and last) post will be about the (Michelin) fine dining scene in Funchal, the island’s capital.

Location of Les Suites at the Cliff Bay Madeira

In case you should have read my post about the Reid’s Palace, Les Suites at The Cliff Bay is just next door of it. And the location is comparable, maybe a tiny little bit less favorable. This is due to the Reid’s better panorama view. But basically, both enjoy the same privileged seafront situation on cliff tops west of Funchal’s core (25 minutes by foot).

History of The Cliff Bay, the mother hotel

Of course Les Suites at The Cliff Bay Madeira has no history to speak of, as it is newly opened (October 2019). But the one of its mother is worth going into, albeit it does not go that back.

The Blandy family, who is one of the groups behind The Cliff Bay, was the former owner of the Reid’s Palace. When Madeira’s grand old dame ran into financial difficulties in 1937, The Blandys took over. They had been the Reid’s proprietor for almost 60 years, before they sold it to the Orient-Express Hotels in 1996. Two years before, they had already opened The Cliff Bay, “the grand young dame”, a tough competitor for the Reid’s.

The Cliff Bay was supposed to challenge the Reid’s Palace as leading luxury hotel on the island. From what I read, it was quite successful in this respect. Although its exteriors reflect the spirits of the 90s, it has immaculate facilities. In 2021, the hotel was refurbished. That included the rooms, reception and the signature restaurant, the two-star Michelin Il Gallo D’Oro. Almost all its 200 rooms face the Atlantic and have both a bath tub and a separate shower. And they feature luxurious furnishings, wood paneling and marble bathrooms.

About the PortoBay Hotels & Resorts

The Cliff Bay and it new addition, Les Suites at The Cliff Bay Madeira, are part of the PortoBay Hotels & Resorts group, which flagship establishment it is. This hotel association has its origins in Madeira. Two local parties control it, the mentioned Blandy family and Ocean Islands. While the former owns the famous Madeira wine company of the same name, the latter is an unknown entity – I did not find anything on the Internet about them.

The hotel group was founded in 2000 and comprises of 15 hotels in Portugal and Brazil. PortoBay Hotels & Resorts offers a competitve customer loyalty program, which has apparently generated 30,000 repeat guests so far. I have checked it out and I am very tempted to make use of it, too.

Ambiance at Les Suites at The Cliff Bay Madeira

I was very impressed by the successful interplay between old and new at Les Suites at The Cliff Bay. Two century-old buildings and a modern new wing come together in perfect harmony. And I liked the ambiance at the hotel exuding understated luxury rather than flaunting wealth.

Les Suites at the Cliff Bay’s contemporary appearance goes side by side with the general atmosphere onsite. This is reflected in the reception area with its uncomplicated approach. The same is true for the trendy restaurant with its relaxed feel. And the lounges are hip, you could encounter them also in places such as Ibiza. Nonetheless, the hotel does not only cater for younger guests. I would think that there is a mixed-age clientele.

Staff/Service

When checking-in at Les Suites at The Cliff Bay Madeira, I was in a somewhat special state. I did this alone as my husband was at a local hospital (he had suffered a medical emergency at our previous hotel in Funchal). Soon after checking into my room, I got a call from customer relations. They let me know that I would get a reduction on the room rate as long as my husband could not join me. Two or three days later, they called again and asked how my husband was doing.

Also the reception staff asked about my husband’s state of health, again and again. There was one lady in particular who showed great sympathy and empathy, which was much appreciated by me.

Service at the restaurant (Avista, see below) was friendly, attentive and smooth. It was provided in the same relaxed manner that we experienced throughout the hotel.

Rooms/Pricing at Les Suites at The Cliff Bay Madeira

As the name says it, there are only suites here, precisely 23 of them, all with sea views. They are modern, spacious and well-appointed. Not only do they have a free minibar with soft drinks, but also a wet bar with coffee machine and microwave (on request). The rooms feature greek marble bathrooms with walk-in showers, large bath tubs and double sinks. On arrival, you are treated with a bottle of wine and fruits – the latter are replenished throughout your stay.

In terms of room categories there are five to choose from. All accommodations except two are in the new modern wing.

1. Suites

There are 6 Suites (60 sqm & 17 sqm balcony, rates from 425 €)), which are located on the second floor. There is a bedroom as well as a large living-room.

2. Suites with Garden

You find here 9 Suites with Garden (60 sqm & 17 sqm patio, rates from 475 €). They are equal to the Suites above, yet on the first floor with a small private garden featuring two sun loungers.

On the second part of our stay – we had to extend it because of my husband’s medical emergency – , we had one of those (priced at 5oo € per day with breakfast, half board 84 € for two persons). It was a great choice with lots of indoor and outdoor space.

It was only a pity, that the outdoor furniture was drenched every morning due to a faulty law sprinkler.

3. Suites Duplex

Les Suites at The Cliff Bay Madeira offers 6 Suites Duplex (66 sqm & 15 sqm, rates from 425 €), which are on the second and third floor. On the lower floor, there is a spacious living-room

with a bathroom including a shower

and the larger of two balconies.

Your own private elevator (or the stairways)

brings you to the upper floor with a sizable bedroom,

a generous bathroom (with bath tub and shower)

and a small balcony.

This was the room category we had booked for our stay here (at a daily rate of 500 €) – and where I resided on my own due to my husband’s being at the hospital. I was much in favor of it because of the expansive space situation – far too much for one person yet pleasant anyway. A slight drawback might be the fact that you have to be quite organized in here, otherwise you have to walk up and down the stairs quite often. If you travel with one kid, this is your preferred choice!

4. Artistic Suite

There is one Artistic Suite (63 sqm & 16 sqm balcony, rates from 400 €), located at one of the historic buildings. It has an open-plan layout with a freestanding bath tub right behind the bed. An enclosed bathroom is part of the room as well, coming with a shower.

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In 2002, a new list of best restaurants was brought to life, The World’s 50 Best Restaurants. And it was a successful launch! Soon it established itself as major player in the culinary scene. It also became a serious opponent to restaurant guides such as the Michelin Guide or the Gault Millau Guide. Since 2013, there also have been published two regional lists, one for Asia and the other for Latin America. And recently, the 2021 list of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants has come out.

When I noticed that I had already dined at the restaurant that tops the list, I took the opportunity to look back at all my dining experiences at establishments appearing here. There are five of them, and I want to briefly showcase what you can expect when dining at those.

Before doing so, some words to the main list, The World’s Best Restaurants.

The World’s Best Restaurants list

This is the original list and at the same time the more significant one. The first winner ever was El Bulli in Spain in 2002. Unfortunately, I had never the chance to eat here before its closure in 2011. Yet, I was lucky enough to have a dinner at the informal tapas place of Tickets in Barcelona, run by the same pair of brothers as El Bulli, Albert and Ferran Adrià.

It was one hell of a meal, consisting of 25 courses,

back in 2012, one year after its opening. By the way, it ranks at number 20 in the current list.

The latest restaurant topping the World’s Best Restaurants list was Mirazur in Menton/France in 2019. The year before it used to be Osteria Francescana in Modena/Italy. And in 2017, Eleven Madison Park

in New York took the first position. Here I was fortunate enough to dine in 2018 before it had to close in March 2020 due to the Corona pandemic. And it still is so, sadly. The absolutely fabulous meal my husband and I had here will always stay in my memory! And I dearly hope that my compatriot Daniel Humm will be able to continue the glorious story of this gourmet temple!

Now to my culinary adventures at establishments of the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list.

Asia’s Best Restaurants list 2021

As I already let you know, I have been at five eateries listed on Asia’s Best Restaurants 2021. They are the following: The Chairman in Hong Kong (#1), La Cime in Osaka (#8), Les Amis in Singapore (#13), Vea in Hong Kong (#16) and Indian Accent in Delhi (#18).

1. The Chairman Hong Kong (#1 / 1 star Michelin)

I like to remember my visit to The Chairman as it has been one of the few places ever where I really enjoyed Chinese fare. The eatery is tucked away in a quiet street in an old area of Hong Kong’s Central District.

When my husband and I entered the premises, we immediately realized that this in not just another of those nondescript Chinese restaurants but a place oozing tradition and character. On offer here is typical Cantonese cuisine made with the best local ingredients, and this with a twist. Staff was friendly and accommodative and helped us westerners to make the right choices from the a la carte menu.

While my husband and I liked what we got, we never would have thought that The Chairman would once become the number one of all restaurants in Asia. Please understand me right – it was a fine meal yet far from being cutting edge gastronomy. Unfortunately, I cannot provide any pictures – at the time I rarely did any food shots. For more information, have a look at my blogpost where to dine in style in Hong Kong.

2. La Cime Osaka (#8 / 2 star Michelin)

This was the first restaurant I booked for our 2019 Japan trip. At the same time, it also was the one I was most looking forward to. And it truly was a highlight – although we had quite a number of such places in the Country of the Rising Sun. Here is my blogpost about dining in Japan.

The elegant and contemporary restaurant is set in Osaka’s downtown.

You find here a marble counter where the chef appears from time to time to do some finishes on the dishes.

There is a set menu only with twelve courses featuring an extraordinary Japanese-French cuisine.

It was a culinary firework, from the first to the last minute.

Staff was pleasant and unobtrusive. Before the dinner started, we were told that a TV team from a local station was present to do a reportage on La Cime. They assured as that we would not be bothered by them. Funnily enough, the TV reporters were interested to ask us some questions about our motivation to dine here – we were the only westerners present. Of course, we said yes. And we felt like celebrities when doing so!

3. Les Amis Singapore (#13 / 3 star Michelin)

My husband and I together with our adult son chose Les Amis for a special occasion. And it turned out to be a good choice for that. It is an elegant and sophisticated restaurant with a fine white-glove service.

But all this without being stiff or overly formal.

When my husband passed the wine cellar, the gracious server even let him have a look into it – and the wine collection was truly impressive!

As to the food, classic French cuisine is served here, immaculately prepared and presented. Each dish provided plenty excitement to our tastebuds. We were raving about this feast for days, if not weeks! And it is not that place where you get these minuscule portions but reasonable serving sizes!

Prices here are high yet you get something for it. Apparently, many of the ingredients are from France and their quality is first-rate. If you plan a Singapore stay, check out my blogpost about great restaurants picks here.

4. Vea Hong Kong (#16 / 1 star Michelin)

Actually, I have not eaten at chef Vicky Cheng’s current restaurant Vea in Hong Kong but at Liberty Private Works, where he worked before. I vividly remember my visit here back in 2015 as it was a completely new type of restaurant to me at the time. You sat on a bar stool at a counter and are served a no-choice menu by chefs working in front of you in an open kitchen.

Find here only a small excerpt of the whole menu consisting of about ten courses.

I was wooed by the carefully prepared creations with flavor combinations that worked well! The chef really has a knack for marrying Chinese food with modern French techniques. From what I understand, he continued this kind of cooking at Vea where he is co-owner.

Just to remind you, I did a blogpost about where to go in Hong Kong for gourmet dining.

5. Indian Accent (#18)

When browsing Asia’s Best Restaurants 2018, I noticed that a restaurant on the list (#19) was in walking distance to our hotel in Delhi that we had booked for our upcoming north Indian journey in 2018.

And without further ado, I made a booking here. Indian Accent is located at The Lodhi, a high-end hotel, and is a glamorous place indeed, laid out around a pond.

The food, a modern take on Indian food, was excellent! My husband and I ordered from the à la carte menu yet there are also menu options.

And the staff is hospitable and informative. If you happen to be in in New York, you can also dine at the Indian Accent branch there, as we did.

It was just as good, yet different from the ambiance (modern urban). If you go to Delhi, here is my blogpost about Indian Accent. In case you head to New York, here are four tips for upscale fusion cuisine in this metropolis.

Date of visits: The Chairman 2015, La Cime 2019, Les Amis 2019, Vea 2015, Indian Accent 2018

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