Yet another chance to indulge in one of the best hotels (and restaurants) in my home country for my husband and me; this time we were invited by friends who celebrated a special birthday! They had chosen Park Hotel Vitznau on Lake Lucerne for this purpose, and we could not be more delighted to spend a weekend at this hotel jewel, that had opened 2013 after an extensive renovation.

 

About Park Hotel Vitznau

The hotel’s history began 1867 with a boarding house called Pension Pfyffer, to which the Park Hotel was added later on. When it was opened in 1903, the new building was regarded as a prime example of the most beautiful hotel architecture at the time.

In 2009, Park Hotel Vitznau was bought by the Austrian investor Peter Puehringer, closed for a luxurious renovation – costing estimated 250 million SFR – and reopened in 2013. Only the façade had been left and the hotel, once a summertime-only resort with 101 rooms, had been turned into an all-year-round operation with 47 junior suites and suites.

The property is comprised of the mentioned hotel and a medical center, which are managed separately from each other. The 5^th and 6^th floors of the hotel building are reserved for the family office of the Puehringer Group.

Location

Park Hotel Vitznau is directly located on beautiful Lake Lucerne with a backdrop of rolling green hills in front of the Alps. The setting is truly picturesque, even more so when the weather played its part, which was not unfortunately not the case when we were visiting.

The hotel can be reached in about 30 minutes from Lucerne and 45 minutes from Zurich.

Rooms/Pricing

As mentioned, there are 47 rooms on four floors, each dedicated to another theme (wine/dine, finance/endowment, music/theatre and the painter Verlinde). No two rooms are alike and all of them are over-sized, the smallest one (Junior Suite with mountain view) is 45 sqm.

My husband and I had a Deluxe Junior Suite with mountain view on the second floor, called La Coopérative. It was dedicated to an ancient cooperative wine cellar from 1925 near Perpignan/France and featured a suited, luxuriously appointed décor. I was deeply impressed by the accommodation and the sweeping balcony as well as the amenities comprising a huge fruit basket, sophisticated chocolate, a small kitchen complete with coffee and tea maker coming with premium products, a fridge filled with soft drinks, beer and white wine as well as red wine, schnapps and sweet and salty snacks, made in house, and all this included in the room rate!

There was an in-room bathroom with a large, free-standing circular tub, a shower and a separate toilet. While the whole arrangement was nice from a design point of view, some features turned out to be a bit impractical, e.g. the shower coming with the danger of flooding the floor if you did not take attention.

Staying at the Park Hotel Vitznau comes with a hefty price tag. The least expensive room in the shoulder season, when we stayed, costs about 900 SFR/US$ including breakfast. While this is top end budget wise, it is aligned with the quality provided, which is far above what you usually get at other hotels of this class.

Restaurants

There is quite a choice when it comes to restaurants. The showpiece is Restaurant focus, awarded two Michelin stars and 18 Gault Millau points, where our party of four had dinner. More about our experience can be found in the next paragraph.

When the weather allows it, you can have your meal at the Lake Terrace, awarded 13 Gault Millau points.

In case you fancy smaller bites, Verlinde Bar might be the place to go.

1. 4-course dinner at focus

As mentioned, this is the signature restaurant on site, helmed by Patrick Mahler who has been in charge for almost two years. He has built a reputation for integrating Japanese food techniques in his modern, creative and light cuisine.

When going here, you pass a couple of glass-walled wine cellars containing supposedly some 40,000 bottles with a value of 25 million SFR/US$!

The restaurant itself is impressive, generously sized with tables offering lots of personal space and comfortable swivel chairs made of leather. It is an elegant yet modern place and I am sure that the views of the lake and the mountains are phenomenal but when I was here it was already dark outside and the weather was rather nasty.

When it comes to food, the four of us thoroughly loved our experience at focus. The menu featured some of the most inspired dishes we had have in a while.

The snacks initiating the feast set the scene for what followed, a delightfully balanced series of artfully composed items that surprised at every bite.

 

The first regular course was a wonderful composition around the king prawn, my personnel favorite of the dinner. The chef, who delivered it himself, gave us the advice to mix up the ingredients before eating, and he was so right! When doing this with apple, fennel and crustacean foam, this resulted in a beguiling effect.

The Ora King salmon, which was next, was paired with beetroot, caviar and smoked fish velouté. It was perfectly balanced although a bit less interesting as the first dish.

The main course consisted of local fallow deer in a combination with porcini, chicory and cherry barbecue. Astonishing, a deer dish in its most consummate form!

The chef did not disappoint in the department of desserts either! Both, the pre-dessert (Jerusalem artichoke and plum)

and the main one (nougat: banana, ginger and parsley)

were totally new taste experiences as some vegetable elements were integrated. Although the flavor combinations seemed unusual at first sight, they were absolutely harmonious when melting in the mouth. I wished only the main dessert had been a bit larger than the pre dessert.

The petit fours

were divine too as it was the case with the bread, served before the first course. Of course, it was a sour dough bread.

That seems to be state of the art in the refined gastronomy at the moment!

By the way, I mentioned in the beginning that the chef delivered the first course himself. He was not the only one from the kitchen that appeared at the table. There were others bringing plates they were responsible for, I assume. Quite a new element! Another thing I liked here was the fact that all the food that came to the table unannounced, was explained on cards accompanying it.

So often I had dishes in other restaurants where I had to guess what I was eating (because I did forget or did not understand what I was going to get). What a brilliant idea!

In terms of prices, it is going to cost you. A lot. Our 4-course dinner amounted to 185 SFR/US$, the full menu (6 courses) would have cost 230 SFR/US$. Although being pricey, it comes with indulging in a truly new culinary experience.

After all these praises, there is also one negative thing to mention, the wine-pairing. Not its quality but its quantity. We had four glasses of wine for a bit less than 100 SFR/US$ per person and it has to be remarked that the pours were not exactly generous. All diners of our party agreed that we were given slightly undersized wine pours at least half of the time. That is a pity, especially in light of the elevated price!

Breakfast was served in the same restaurant where we had dinner and it was a highlight, too! Fortunately, we could enjoy the views at this point of time although the weather was far from ideal.

I have had my share of breakfasts, all over the world. But what was offered here, was unique! There was a beautiful buffet with cold items, of course. In addition, there was a menu with additional dishes to choose from that was far off the beaten path you encounter at other luxury hotels. Needless to say, you get all sorts of eggs but much, much more: classics just as cured salmon trout, Croque Monsieur with truffle butter or duck liver terrine, then an array of healthy items (acai bowl, overnight oats or Miso soup), sweet dishes as Crepes Suzette, rice pudding or apple crumble and finally a wide selection of smoothies and drinks. I was deeply impressed and sampled quite a few dishes from this gorgeous menu – especially after the friendly server told us that the portion sizes are small and encouraged us to order more than one item –, and enjoyed all of them: duck liver terrine,

Miso soup

and Belgian waffle with berries and yoghurt ice cream.

What a feast!

The enjoyment of all these breakfast treats was slightly tempered when I caught sight of something that did not fit, another hotel guest in need of nursing care … He was looked after by an employee of the medical unit (she fed him). I found this a bit unusual, as vacationers in such establishments might not be pleased about being face to face with the abyss of life.

Ambiance/Service

Park Hotel Vitznau is in my (humble) opinion one of the most prestigious luxury hotels in Switzerland. It is big enough to ensure every possible luxury yet not too much so in order to guarantee a personal service. One cannot help but notice that money was not an issue when redoing this place. The outcome was a real gem, the beautiful old façade was preserved while all modern amenities were included.

That being said, you feel comfortable here as the staff, from the bar to the dining room, hit the perfect notes of warmth and friendliness with this small touch of formality you expect from a luxury hotel. I especially liked the confident behavior of a young male employee at the bar when we ordered pastries to accompany the welcome drink, a glass of the fabulous house champagne – generously poured, what a contrast to the partly skimpy wine pours experienced at the dinner at Restaurant focus! He was capable of describing us exactly what kind of treats are available – and there were many of them – and made us feel very welcome in these first moments of settling into Park Hotel Vitznau!

Date of visit: October 2019

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As my husband attended an executive education event in Lausanne, I had the chance to spend some time in Lausanne too, the second largest city in the French-speaking part of Switzerland after Geneva. Like the latter it is located on Lake Geneva and it is a great place to spend a weekend in style in the most beautiful vineyard region in Switzerland, the Lavaux. The choice as to lodging was made by the organizer of the event mentioned (special rate), but I could not have made a better one myself as Hotel Royal Savoy proved to be a true gem.

 

About Lausanne

Lausanne is the fourth largest city in Switzerland. It is built on three hills, amidst the Lavaux wine-growing region and located on the shores of Lake Geneva. On the opposite side of the lake is the French town of Evian-les-Bains, against the backdrop of the Savoy Alps. Briefly, an utterly picturesque setting indeed!

Lausanne is a city of sport; the International Olympic Committee has had its base here since 1914. It was even appointed as “Olympic Capital” by this institution. There is also the Court of Arbitration for Sport and many international sport associations settled here. The city is also home of the Olympic Museum, a large information center about the Olympic games, which is worth visiting for those interested in this subject.

The old medieval town with its maze of winding alleys and the impressive Gothic cathedral is good for a stroll. Ouchy, the port and a lovely neighborhood just by the lake, is a must-visit, too. The scenic view of the lake and the Alps make it a popular gathering place, especially in summertime. And on the lake shore, there are several grand palace hotels just as the Beau-Rivage Palace Ouchy, the Angleterre or Château d’Ouchy.

After going into the Hotel Royal Savoy, where my husband stayed, I will make suggestions where to go for a walk in Lausanne-Ouchy and its surroundings, the marvelous Lavaux vineyards.

Hotel Royal Savoy, part of The Buergenstock Selection

Before coming to this hotel in Lausanne, a few words to the hotel group, where Royal Savoy belongs to, the Buergenstock Selection. There are three establishments under this banner, the Buergenstock Resort Lake Lucerne

– the most known and at the same time one of the largest luxury retreats in Europe, see here my blogpost about staying here –, the Hotel Schweizerhof Bern and the mentioned Hotel Royal Savoy Lausanne. A special package is offered when booking more than one hotel of this selection during a minimum length of nights. The investor and owner of Buergenstock Selection is Katara Hospitality, a subsidiary of the Emirate of Qatar’s sovereign wealth fund.

After all this background information – it might be interesting to know who is behind all these magnificent hotels –, now to the Royal Savoy itself.

Location

Set in Ouchy, not far from the city center with the main railway station, Hotel Royal Savoy benefits from a perfect setting. The lake can be reached in less than ten minutes by foot and a station of the metro (connecting Ouchy with the main railway station and further) is just outside the hotel. And of course, an outstanding view of Lake Geneva from its elevated location is matter of course!

If flying into Switzerland, the main railway station of Lausanne can be reached in about 45 minutes from Geneva airport or in less than two and half hours from Zurich airport by train.

Facilities

The hotel, dating from 1909, used to be a refuge for royalty and aristocrats from all over the world. Before it was bought by the Katara Hospitality, Royal Savoy had led an existence as a (downgraded) three-star hotel, which of course had not done justice to the splendid Art Nouveau building influenced also by the architecture of medieval castles. After a costly four-year renovation (100 million SFR) of the historic building complete with the construction of a new wing – dedicated mainly to a spa and seminar facilities – the five-star hotel reopened in 2015.

The made-over Royal Savoy has 196 rooms, three restaurants – the main restaurant Brasserie du Royal, a lounge bar, both with terraces, and the Sky Lounge, a roof top bar – and all the other facilities typical for an hotel of this class (spa with indoor and outdoor pool, 24/7 fitness center, hair salon etc.).

As my husband stayed at the Royal Savoy on the occasion of an executive education event at a local business school, he had booked a standard room via the organizing company coming along with a special rate. The regular rate for this room category (Deluxe Room City View) would have been around 400 SFR. The room he had was located in the new wing, quite spacious (30 sqm/323 sqft), modernly decorated, with a comfortable bed, a separate seating area and a balcony.

The bathroom with marble finishing was adequately sized, coming with a tub, a sperate shower and a likewise toilet.

Restaurants

As mentioned above, there are three restaurants on site, out of which I had dinner at the main restaurant Brasserie du Royal, awarded 15 points by the prestigious food guide Gault Millau, and I had also tea and cake at the lounge bar. In addition, my husband had drinks and tapas dishes at the Sky Lounge

at one occasion.While he liked the atmosphere in this gorgeous roof top bar (stylish and vibrant), he found the food good (inventive and light) yet on the more expensive side, at least if intended to be a full dinner. As to the food experience in the other two outlets, here are my verdicts.

1. Tea and cake at the lounge bar

I have a sweet tooth and I am quite demanding when it comes to delicacies in this field. When entering the elegant premises, a beautiful, high-ceiling room,

I immediately caught side of a trolley where the pastries of the day were showcased. They looked delicious, and after trying a bite from the ones we chose – a difficult choice –, I had to admit that it was probably the most heavenly lemon tart and chocolate éclair I have ever tasted!

Besides from sweets, there is an extensive lounge bar menu including everything from breakfast items, small bites, classics just as smoked salmon, bar evergreens like club sandwich, healthy and vegetarian choices to a range of oriental options (the hotel is Qatari owned).

2. A (small) dinner at Brasserie du Royal

UPDATE: new concept without chef Marc Haeberlin

The restaurant is quite large, comprised of several rooms. Before entering the dining room, you pass a hallway lined with wine cabinets and at its end you find yourself looking at a meal vitrine with aged meat.

Later on you will learn – when looking at the varied menu – that all the meat pieces showcased are aged, on the bone, for a minimum of three weeks (veal prime flank, beef tenderloin and beef prime rib, served with a side dish and sauce of your choice). Although, my husband and I were tempted by these meat specialties, we decided against it – we were in a bit of a rush as I had to catch a train after dinner – and opted instead for Monsieur Marc’s Menu (three courses, 85 SFR). If you are wondering about this “Monsieur”, it is about Marc Haeberlin, a famous two-starred (until recently three-starred) Michelin chef from the Alsace (northeastern France), who is on hand with advice here and contributes a few signature dishes to the menu, too.

We were ushered through the elegant, contemporarily designed restaurant – I adored the gorgeous chandeliers –

to the winter garden,

probably the brightest room with a view of the terrace.

What a nice setting on a rainy evening – as we caught one, unfortunately!

Quickly after bringing a bread selection,

the starter, an immaculate foie gras, combined with a strawberry chutney and a freshly baked brioche in the form of a typical Alsatian kougelhopf, was served.

The main course, a roasted pollack, paired with citrus tzatziki and lots of bok choi was convincing, too.

The dessert, la pêche “Haeberlin”, a candied peach in a perfect union with Champagne zabaglione and pistachio ice-cream, is one of Marc Haeberlins’s signature dishes.

It was truly a sweet sin, a feast for the palate and soothing to the soul, but not exactly a light delight. And the cookies which accompanied the check were divine!

If you desire something different, there are plenty of other choices: two more menus (a seasonal one and a weekly one), an ample offer of starters and meat dishes, a few fish options as well as varied desserts to choose from.

Ambiance/Service

You are here in a historic building and you can notice it, which is a good thing. The hotel seems to have been restored to its pristine beauty, yet it feels contemporary luxurious in an elegant style. Royal Savoy is perfect for people with a sense of heritage and at the same time seek modern comfort. I especially liked the bar lounge area with an oversize chandelier hanging from the double-height ceiling.

Every one of the staff we interacted with was attentive, gracious and professional, there is nothing to be criticized in this regard. From the first to the very last minute, service was immaculate.

Overall

When visiting Lausanne, the country’s fourth-largest city on the Lake of Geneva in western Switzerland, and looking for a hotel to stay in style, Royal Savoy is a safe bet. The historic building, a bit elevated above the lake, was extensively renovated to its former splendor. If you are a foodie, you are right here as there is also a Gault Millau awarded restaurant on site. Along with an always friendly and competent staff, there is nothing to fault in this superb historical property.

Walking activities in town and surroundings

As mentioned at the beginning, here are two suggestions how to walk and explore the area, one in town, the other in the absolutely stunning Lavaux vineyard region.

1. Walk along the lake shore

A nice stroll to undertake is along the lake shore in the eastern direction. The starting point is near the Metro station Ouchy-Olympique. Have a look around in the port and lakeside resort and walk as long as you want. You can walk to Pully (Lac) via Sentier des Rives du Lac in about 40 minutes where you can return by foot or you can take the boat back to Lausanne-Ouchy.

If you are an avid walker, you can extend the walk into a substantial hike by walking to Vevey, the next bigger town. This is a distance of about 20 km (12.4 miles), going first along the lake and then through the Lavaux vineyards (see more details about it in the second walk), taking about six hours. Once arrived in Vevey, you can take the boat or train back to Lausanne. If you do not make it to Vevey, no problem, there are many stops underway to return by boat or train to your place of origin.

2. Walk through the Lavaux vineyards

Shortly after Lausanne in the eastern direction, the Lavaux vineyard regions begins (you can see it from afar when you do the above walk along the lake shore).

This is the largest contiguous vineyard region in Switzerland – covering 800 hectares (1,957 acres). The vineyards grow in terraces that were daringly constructed along the hill and have been protected by UNESCO since 2007.

There are lots of walks to do here, one of them is from Saint-Saphorin to Lutry. The former can be reached from Lausanne by train in 15 minutes. From there walk in the western direction in about 3 hours 15 minutes through the vineyards to Lutry where you can take the boat or train back to Lausanne. Details can be found on My Switzerland.

Date of visit: September 2019

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The most talked about hotel (re-)opening in Switzerland of last year – and still holding a strong appeal – is by no doubt the one of Buergenstock Resort, 500 meters (1,640 feet) above Lake Lucerne. And it is the largest hotel renovation project in my home country to date, too (550 million Dollars). This was reason enough for us – I went with my husband and a befriended couple – to book a staycation here. The Buergenstock Hotel used to be a magnet for the rich and famous from all over the world after its opening in 1873. After a period of decline the hotel was acquired 2007 by the Qatari state fund and has undergone an extensive 9-year renovation project. Chances are good that the refurbished hotel complex will repeat the success of former glorious times!

The hotel is located only a bit more than one hour’s drive from my home town and – more importantly – it is exactly the same distance from Zurich, in case you fly into Switzerland’s most cosmopolitan city. A more pleasant way to get here than by car is it to take the train to Lucerne and then to arrive via boat at the Kehrsiten-Buergenstock pier, where the Buergenstock Funicular will bring you up to the top. Here, an idyllic lake-and-mountain setting awaits you. The biggest asset is certainly the view, you look down at the beautiful Lake Lucerne with the backdrop of close and more distant mountains, it is really one of a kind vista!

Facilities

As one might expect – in light of a project with so many superlatives – the facilities are impressive, be it from their sheer number or how they present themselves.

Hotels

Out of the lodging possibilities, the newly built 5-star Buergenstock Hotel with its 102 rooms is the most upscale one.

This is also the place where I spent the night. Details about my experience here follow further on. Apart from this showpiece, there are three more accommodations: the adjoining Palace Hotel (4-star, 109 rooms) with its Belle Époque flair and specially conceived for conferences and events,

the Waldhotel (5-star, 160 rooms), excelling in the area of health/medical and overlooking the alpine panorama,

as well as Taverne 1879,

the alpine chalet style accommodation with its 3 stars and 12 rustic rooms.

I had dinner here and liked what I got. Also the favorite bar of the resort can be found here, the Lakeview Lounge and Bar.

This place has not only a vibrant flair but a tremendous view over Lake Lucerne as well. We had an after-dinner drink here and enjoyed the pleasant ambiance.

Adjacent to the Hotel Buergenstock Hotel and part of the Alpine Spa there is the Oak Grill 

with its original oak beams and its impressive grill offering a variety of grill specialties from the land and the sea.

In the Palace Hotel you find the Ritzcoffier (since March 2022: upscale brasserie)

an exquisite French restaurant with kitchen equipment from times gone by and overseen by the three Michelin Star chef Marc Haeberlin.

Next to the Palace Hotel there is Sharq Oriental Restaurant (since May 2022: Parisa, Persian cuisine)

boasting oriental delights and a few steps further the Taverne 1879

with typical Swiss dishes is located.

Continuing further along the road, you encounter the Waldhotel with its Verbena Restaurant.

Here well-balanced healthy food is on offer. Unfortunately, my lunch experience here was a bit underwhelming. Neither was our party of four nicely welcomed nor proceeded the meal to our (high) expectations. Hopefully, this incident falls under the category of initial teething problems.

There is not one Spa but two of them, the smaller one at the Waldhotel and the major one – the Alpine Spa – next to the Buergenstock Hotel. The latter one extends across 10,000 sqm (110,000 sqf) and three storeys with an indoor pool, an infinity-edge pool, a Hollywood pool, a sauna, a gym and 15 treatment rooms amongst other offerings. The highlight – the only thing I made use of – is by any accounts the infinity-edge pool with amazing views of the lake and mountains scenery.

The Buergenstock Hotel has recently even been awarded for being the best wellness hotel in Switzerland by one of the country’s most important hotel ratings, Sonntagszeitung Hotel Rating by Karl Wild.

Other features include a 9-hole golf course, indoor and outdoor tennis facilities, an ice field for ice skating in winter, a cinema (free of charge for guests of the Buergenstock Hotel) and a shopping arcade with a Sky Terrace – a small platform made completely of glass.

Of course, there are also hiking opportunities onsite. If you feel like doing an easy – and rewarding – hike, then do the cliff walk (Felsenweg), built between 1900 and 1905, with outstanding views of Lake Lucerne.

Take the path along the cliffs until the Hammetschwand Lift, Europe’s highest exterior elevator.

In case you fancy a daring ride, take it to the top and continue towards Hotel Villa Honegg – another recommended hotel to stay and a good spot for lunch or drinks and snacks.

Alternatively, follow the cliff path as far as the mentioned hotel and return to Buergenstock Hotels & Resort. The walk will take you about 1 ½ hours in total.

As already mentioned, I spent one night at the “crown jewel” of the Buergenstock Hotels & Resort, the Buergenstock Hotel. This modern, contemporarily styled hotel has large rooms starting at 42 sqm (452 sqf), all with panoramic windows overlooking lake and mountains.

We opted for the least expensive room here, a Deluxe Part Lake/Mountain View Room, coming not inexpensive at all but with a stiff price tag (1,000 SFR/night). In the Palace Hotel or the Waldhotel you get a room at less than half the price!

Having said that, the room is a real gem equipped with finest materials and designer furniture such as walnut floors or natural quartzite walls. The room is split into two parts and a double-sided fireplace is positioned between the room and the bathroom.

In such a way, both parts have exactly the same stunning view, in the bedroom from a comfortable sitting area,

in the wet area from a panoramic bathtub!

The atmosphere of the accommodation is warm and inviting, there is a spacious walk-in closet and a wooden desk enlighted with cowbell pendant lamps, a nice detail.

The panoramic windows cannot be opened and although the room is air-conditioned the room temperature was too high when we stayed at the Buergenstock Hotel on a moderately warm day. When we complained about this, staff was not able to do anything about that. They brought us a fan and offered a free upgrade on our next visit! I hope this issue can be settled soon, an inadequate room air-conditioning is unacceptable, especially for a room with this hefty price tag!

The rate included breakfast at the Spices Restaurant, which offered an appropriate selection and was of good quality.

and sweeping view of the region.

There is a delightful mix of Japanese, Indian and Chinese cuisines on offer, awarded 15 points by Gault Millau. We were told that experienced chefs from the specific countries are employed here.

Everything we had was immaculately prepared and nicely arranged. Good starters were the Nigiri Sushi

and the Dim Sum (Traditional Siu Mai),

a delicious main was the Red Curry with BBQ Duck, Assorted Fruits and Sweet Basil (Kaeng Phed Ped Yang).

For dessert I ordered the Spices Special, Coconut with Yuzu Gel, Banana Puree, Mango Passionfruit Sorbet and Coconut Foam.

While it was a treat, I considered the portion as too small and the price as too high. All the other dishes we sampled were just right in terms of portion size and adequately priced.

Service was paced exactly right and present when needed. Staff was attentive and helpful at all times, we really enjoyed our dinner here!

Date of stay: May 2018

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See also dinner experience at chef Heiko Nieder at The Dolder Grand Hotel