Hotel The Omnia Zermatt has a noteworthy backstory, but first of all it is a stunning luxury hotel offering a hospitality that is second to none. And although it has more than 15 years under its belt it looks dewy and fresh. Maybe you are prompted to assume that it is one of these typical chalets in the mountains reminding you of the story around Heidi in the Alps. But The Omnia is different. It is a contemporary interpretation of a classic mountain lodge with an interior design inspired by American modernism. Although it looks quite big from the outside, it is actually rather boutique. And its setting on a rock face above Zermatt is ravishing. You can reach the hotel via an elevator that is deep inside the mountain and starts right from the town center.

I hinted about its backstory already, which will make the start of my reporting. But although I personally find it fascinating, this should not hide the fact that Hotel The Omnia Zermatt is first and foremost an absolutely fabulous choice for spending a few days in Zermatt. This also in case you should be a fine dining lover. That is because its restaurant is great in this aspect too. You will find everything what makes this hotel worth going to for demanding travelers right after diving into its eventful past.

Hotel The Omina’s backstory

The Omnia’s pre-story

The Omnia was opened in 2006. And this after it had already been opened six years ago as a different hotel. It had the name “Into the Hotel” and was only in business for seven short weeks! The Into – as it was usually called – was a Gesamtkunstwerk, a total work of art, originated in a joint effort between an artist and a son of a millionaire. The protagonists were Heinz Julen, son of a mountain guide, ski instructor, artist, designer and hotel builder, and Alexander Schaerer, a member of the family owning USM, producing office furniture.

What went wrong with the predecessor hotel Into?

As mentioned, Into was not an ordinary hotel but quite an extraordinary undertaking. Heinz Julen brought in the idea – a habitable sculpture – and the land, Alexander Schaerer the money (from the family business). The hotel got its name from into the rock (its entrance was blasted into the mountain). And the artist realized here some really special things, for instance rooms featured a turntable on which there were the bed and the sofa. In such a manner, guests could view  Zermatt’s iconic mountain, the Matterhorn, anywhere they were. Or there was a retractable whirlpool or a submersible fountain.

After the opening of Into in 2000, it soon became clear that the hotel had construction defects. Opinions differed how bad they were. Heinz Julen thought that the issues could be solved with some adjustments. Family Schaerer considered the situation as much worse. Father and son Schaerer came to the conclusion that Into could not survive the way it was. They voted for a deconstruction of the hotel, which finally took place – after a long back and forth. In between, Alexander Schaerer sued Heinz Julen for 7.7 million SFR of renovation costs. Then it came to an out-of-court settlement in 2004: Heinz Julen gave up his share, Alexander waved his compensations claim.

The rebirth of the hotel in the form of The Omnia

Six years after the hotel opened first in the form of the Into The Omnia opened its doors again for guests. While it still was not the usual hotel, it was for sure not Switzerland’s craziest one any more. This was how journalists called the Into at the time. Most gadgets of the original hotel were removed, for example the high-gloss granite bathtubs.

You cannot know whether the deconstruction of the original hotel was the right thing to do. Maybe the Into could have been saved with a few amendments. Or maybe it really was totally defunct. Be it as it may, the Schaerer family created with The Omnia Zermatt a special hotel that stays in memory. What to expect, find in the following.

Location of Hotel The Omnia Zermatt

I already mentioned it, The Omnia’s location is remarkable, on top of a granite rock face overlooking Zermatt.

You enter the hotel

by passing through a tunnel

and traveling up via a glass elevator. Once inside, you are rising through masses of rocks until you reach the reception level, 45 m (148 ft) above town. While you feel here being far away from the hustle and bustle of Zermatt’s Bahnhofstrasse, you are actually only a lift ride away from it.

You reach the hotel in about seven minutes by foot from the train station – where you also find the bottom station of the Gornergrat railway in its immediate vicinity. Alternatively, you may ask the staff at Hotel  The Omnia Zermatt to get you at the station with an electric vehicle (Zermatt has always been car-free).

Ambiance/Staff at Hotel The Omnia Zermatt

The Omnia could not be further away from being one of these sometimes rather kitschy wooden chalet hotels found in the Alps. Instead, it is a contemporarily styled mountain lodge with smart and sophisticated furnishings. The interior design is the result of Ali Tayar’s work, a New York architect with Turkish roots. It is inspired by American modernism and has a warm feel as well as a hand crafted aesthetics. You find here lots of grey granite and white oak. Everything is about regional materials and furniture made by local craftsmen.

And the staff suits the hotel’s appearance. When my husband and I rode up the elevator on our arrival, we happened to be together with another arriving couple. Once the lift doors opened, two reception employees stood ready to welcome us separately. We were ushered to a seating area and were asked what kind of drink would suit us. Then they laid the glasses accompanied by a variety of snacks out on the table before us. We were even asked whether our drinks should be topped up. What a treat! Not long, and the general manager, Christian Eckert, appeared and warmly greeted us.

And so it proceeded in this positive fashion throughout our stay. Every staff member we were in touch with, had this gracious and obliging mindset. I also want to highlight the service at the restaurant, which was flawless. We especially appreciated dealing with Timo Muchenberger, the F&B manager, who unfortunately will leave at the end of this summer season.

Rooms/Pricing

On site you find 30 guest rooms, 12 of them are suites, and the do not have numbers but letters. As to the former ones, you can opt for either a Double (37 sqm) with view of Zermatt or the rock side, a Double Mountain Bath (37 sqm) facing the cliff, a Double Deluxe (50 sqm) with view of Zermatt or Matterhorn or a Queen (24 sqm) going to the rock side. When it comes to suites, there is the Corner Suite (68 sqm) facing Zermatt, the Village Suite (72 sqm) with the same view, the Matterhorn Suite (70 sqm), the Tower Suite (90 sqm) with Matterhorn view and the Roof Suite (110 sqm) with Matterhorn view too plus a sauna.

Room rates start at about 440 SFR/US$ per night including breakfast in the shoulder/low season. When lodging here, A nice feature awaits you in the rooms. And this is a special welcome in the form of a crystal carafe with a gold-colored Bourbon to help yourself at your preference. It is refilled daily, and – as my husband assured me – it is a fine one!

My husband and I chose to stay at a Corner Suite. Find some details in the lines to come.

Corner Suite: our choice of room at Hotel The Omnia Zermatt

I was overwhelmed with all the space at our disposal in the Corner Suite. There is a spacious living room coming with a large seating area, a large table, some USM furniture (the owner family “sends regards”) and a balcony facing a pathway leading up the mountain along a quiet neighborhood.

The bedroom is quite roomy too with two balconies, one with view of the before mentioned pathway, the other towards Zermatt. There is also a comfortable chaise lounge to enjoy the latter view.

And for one of these rare occasions, my husband and I had separate bathrooms. I opted for the one with the tub and a single basin,

my husband had to be content with the other, featuring a small shower and a single sink.

The one thing of the accommodation we were not that in favor was the fact that it was about on the same level as the pathway I already wrote about. Throughout the day, there were the one or other hikers passing, being able to catch a glimpse of the inside of our room. In the worst case, they would even have been able to intrude without difficulties. But I am quite sure that this is not very likely to happen. Anyway, ask about staying a story higher (I am not sure whether there are more than two of these rooms).

As to the room rate, it costed 700 SFR/US$ per night including breakfast in the summer peak. But be aware of the fact that rates in winter are higher. Expect to pay about 1,000 SFR/US$ for this room category in the high season.

Restaurant The Omnia

UPDATE: Leandro Sutter as new restaurant manager as from winter season 2023/24 & André Kneubühler as new chef as from summer season 2024

The restaurant is the place for breakfast and for dinner. For the latter, it is open every day. Monday and Tuesday are days when you can only book a table as hotel guest. I was very fond of the delectable breakfasts we got here. Weather permitting, you can have them also on the terrace.

Setting

As for dinner, we only happened to have one here here, yet it was fabulous! I very much liked the setting at The Omnia Restaurant. It is a large room but there are not that many tables in it. The space is divided into four different sections.

First, you find here the “regular” tables, long wooden ones with either six seats or twice two seats. Personally, I was not that in favor of the latter arrangement as you are quite close to another guest couple in such a case. Given the ample space in this room, I found that a bit suboptimal, but I am sure for most people it would be no issue. Anyway, second, there is a corner where there is an overlong, high table where dining feels a bit more casual. Third, they have added a seating area where you could either wait for you dinner companions or  have a pre dinner drink. And last there is a somewhat hidden round table in an alcove.

Food concept

When it comes to food, dining is a lavishing affair at Hotel The Omnia Zermatt. Chef Tony Rudolf has been on the helm here since October 2021 (before he was sous chef, and this since June 2017). The restaurant is Michelin listed and has 16 points at Gault Millau. The restaurant manager is the already mentioned Timo Muchenberger who does a great job in this position. With regard to food concept, they offer seasonal premium produce of alpine provenance, based on a vegetarian concept. Yet it is far from being strict in this regard as you can complement the dishes with fish or meat.

You can make your selection from à la carte menu or opt for the tasting menu (four courses, vegetarian 110 SFR/US$, with meat 135 SFR/US$). When going for à la carte, you have the following offer: five starters (19 to 26 SFR/US$), five mains (36 to 28 SFR/US$) and quite a number of complements (18 to 28 SFR/US$) to add to your choices. If you are not sure how to combine, the service team is happy to assist you. In terms of desserts, there are three options (25 SFR/US$) plus ice cream or sorbet (8 SFR/US$ per scoop) and cheese (17/28 SFR/US$). Quite original, this concept with vegetarian food plus fish or meat complements!

Alternatively, you can order The Omnia Classics. These are either The Omnia Wiener Schnitzel (58 SFR/US$) or The Omnia Raclette (one piece 13 SFR/US$ or “bottomless style” 53 SFR/US$).

How was it?

My husband and I decided to go for the Chef’s Choice four-course menu, and that was a great thing to do! We had the wine pairing (89 SFR/US$ per person) as well, which complimented the food just perfect.

We started with an amuse bouche made of joghurt and beetroot and continued with a mix between Vitello Tonnato and tomato mozzarella salad. Next was a saffron risotto enhanced with zander fish. The main course was lamb with a braised carrot plus buckwheat.

The meal finished with Felchlin Edelweiss 36% chocolate mousse accompanied by strawberry espuma, yoghurt and granola. The very end was a macaron with thyme.

I was delighted by the idea to combine vegetarian food with fish and meat. In such a way, the sides become to main players, which I found a real benefit. This because it feels like having the best of two worlds (veggie and fish/meat). And I have to admit that the chef knew very well what food items go well together. And the wine pairing, selected and presented by Tim Muchenberger, was exquisite!

Other facilities at Hotel The Omnia Zermatt

Lounge Bar & Sun Terrace

If you care for small bites and/or drinks, the Lounge Bar

and the Sun Terrace

are at your disposal. The former does this from 10 am to 11 pm, the latter from 11 am to 6 pm (whether permitting). Integrated in the Lounge Bar is also a library where you find among other things hundreds of art publications. And amidst books and magazines, you also encounter a large selection of whiskeys.

As to the terrace, you have a view of the Matterhorn

plus of the town from high above.

Spa

Hotel guests in search of wellness find here a combined indoor/outdoor pool

with a separate outdoor whirlpool. When sitting in the latter, you have not only a view of the Matterhorn but also of the town of Zermatt.

In addition, there is a rather small space with saunas as well as floral and herbal steam rooms. The wellness center also features a gym with Technogym equipment and two separate units for massage, yoga and pilates.

Overall Hotel The Omnia Zermatt & general Zermatt information

It has been quite a long time since I was so happy with a hotel in Switzerland on a first stay. This is due not only to its great premises – especially guest rooms and dining room in a contemporary version of a classic mountain lodge -, but also to the most perfect hospitality. The general manager, Christian Eckert, does a terrific job when it comes to dealing with guests. His credo is: welcoming guests is not a profession, it is a passion. And he really lives by it. In addition, he was able to bring its 50-odd staff members to do so in the same excellent manner. He even was awarded Hotelier of the Year 2023 by Hotellerie Suisse, the leading hotel industry organization.

In case you look for further information on Zermatt, I also made some other posts about it in the past, especially when it comes to skiing.

I have a recommendation for you if you care for a luxury ski-in/ski-out hotel in this alpine town.

Furthermore, I also put together a guide on where to eat in style on the slopes in Zermatt.

Date of stay: August 2023

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While the year of 2021 was still heavily marked by the Corona pandemic, 2022 was the year of change for travel. Whereas there were still some obstacles, international (air) travel became an option again. I would like to look back at these two years, yet without dwelling so much on 2021. It was a difficult year for me, precisely for my husband and me. I do not want to give too many details – this is a travel blog after all – , but the situation we were in affected our traveling too. In 2022, there was definitely a turn to the better! And this was as well as to travel restrictions caused by the pandemic as to personal issues. So, I thought it is high time for a travel update on Swiss Traveler.

Travel year of 2021

The first part of 2021 was still strongly influenced by the Corona pandemic. So, there was more domestic travel for my husband and me. And we were lucky to live in Switzerland because it was always possible to stay and dine at domestic hotels, throughout the COVID-19 time. From late summer on, we were able to travel internationally again, first by car and later by air.

Exploring west Switzerland

I have already announced in my last travel update that we explored the western part of Switzerland, the French speaking one, to a greater extent. This involved the Swiss Jura around Le Noirmont

where you find a great two-star Michelin restaurant

with some guest rooms. We continued towards south to the Lake Geneva. Here we stayed in the beautiful Glion above Montreux

before heading to Lausanne. The latter is not only one of the bigger cities in Switzerland but a nice place too. And it features the possibly best hotel in the country’s French speaking part.

Plus, the latter hosts a great two-star Michelin restaurant.

After exploring Switzerland’s west,  it was up to two more domestic trips before heading to the nearby abroad.

Short stay on Lake Zurich & a journey to Ticino with 2 stops en route

The short stay on Lake Zurich

was a “Corona getaway”, as outlined above. Our choice of destination turned out to be ideal for this purpose as it allowed us to dine not only at the onsite restaurant but also at the one of a sister hotel in the city of Zurich. And we reached the latter by the hotel owned boat!

Next was a journey to Ticino, Switzerland’s sunniest spot, with one stop on the way there

and one on the way back

(now under new managment). In the Ticino, it draw us to Ascona, and this to our favorite hotel

In the area where we had not been for a while.

Venturing abroad to neighboring Italy & France

As first destination for traveling internationally after the worst time of the pandemic, we chose the north Italy and the south of France (itinerary). As to Italy, I did the following posts: hotel No 1,

with great three-star Michelin restaurant,

plus what to do,

hotel No 2

plus things to do

and hotel No 3

plus activities.

With regard to France, here is what I wrote about it: hotel No 1

with two walks,

hotel No 2 including two activities

and hotel No 3,

which features an outstanding two-star Michelin dining-spot.

Having returned from nearby abroad, we chose Madeira as destination for our first air trip. Not only is it quite close to Switzerland but it also features a balmy climate year around.

First international air trip to Madeira & a traveler’s nightmare

Madeira is ideal for travelers in search of mild weather in November. It is also perfect for those into walking such as us. Returning to this island in the Atlantic Ocean had been our bucket list for some time (our last trip to this island dates back to 2007). So, we were very much looking forward to our journey and our first air trip since a while.

We had a good start – see my post about hotel No 1.

Then it happened, something that every traveler fears! My husband developed a kidney stone, for the first time ever. What first seemed to be painful yet not too much cause for concern, got out of control. There were complications and he had to be hospitalized on an emergency basis. The diagnosis was septic shock! In the end, everything turned out fine – Madeira has excellent private healthcare facilities.

Yet, such an health issue is of course every traveler’s nightmare!

Despite all this – my husband had to spend one week at the hospital, from which two days in intensive care – , I managed to produce quite some more content about Madeira: hotel No 2,

general information,

luxury hotels overview,

gourmet dining.

After this mixed year of 2021, my husband and I hoped for a much better 2022. Yet we wanted to be careful before heading further away, both because of the insecurities caused by the pandemic and of the health issue my husband had suffered abroad.

Back to normal in 2022?

Yes, that was the big question at the start of the new year, for travel addicts and also for my husband and me. If you face a serious health incident abroad, you cannot not go on as before. It changes you whether you want it to or not. But there was hope, both with regard to a fast end of the pandemic and to fearlessly traveling again. To be precise as to the latter, that means to go on a trip without checking first whether there is a state-of-the-art health care facility nearby.

The travel year 2022 started with ski vacations in Zuoz

again. We also returned to Lausanne

for another stay at my favorite hotel in town if not in western Switzerland. This time we went with friends and it was again a good experience.

First time ever in Mallorca/Spain

Our first air trip did not go far, you know, in the case of an unexpected health issue. It went to Mallorca, a place we have avoided so far like the plague. Yet we always have been steering away from destinations affected by mass tourism. But, due to the situation at the time, we gave it a try. And we were pleasantly surprised, with some exceptions. It seems that there is always too much of everything on this beautiful island. And in spring, there are definitely too many cyclists (on race bicycles) around.

Here are my posts about Mallorca: its (excessive) tourism,

itinerary,

staying and dining in style in four places (southwest,

north,

northeast

– here you find also Mallorca’s best restaurant – the two-star Michelin restaurant Voro

– and Palma de Mallorca).

Before going farther – to a place with immaculate health care facilities – , we had one more interesting domestic short stay.

A weekend at a country club in Val Lumnezia/Switzerland

Together with friends we spent a weekend in Val Lumnezia, a valley in the southeastern Alps in the canton of Grisons. Here we stayed not at a conventional hotel but at a country club.

This means that it is not open to the public, only members can dine (a former two-star Michelin chef)

and stay here. My husband and I were lucky enough to join friends of us (who have a membership). And it was a great thing to do, especially if you care for personalized and bespoke services (no post yet).

Our 9th West Coast America journey

Then off we went for our ninth West Coast America stay! We had opted for a place that was familiar to us for our first journey further away from home after the pandemic’s peak. The start and ending point was Los Angeles,

in between were Las Vegas

and some places in Arizona.

Here is an overview post, another one goes into the details, i.e. from place to place.

Next on the agenda was a short stay in the eastern Swiss Alps in Klosters near Davos (no post yet),

before we returned to our favorite city in the world, Paris. We have been here umpteen times, but we still love it! These are my posts about it: luxury boutique hotel in the Marais,

4 Michelin starred restaurants.

After this, we spent a weekend in Zurich with friends at a hotel in the city’s old town (post about restaurant, a two-star Michelin dining-spot,

no post about hotel yet). And then it was up to a bigger trip, our fourth Bali stay. On a side note, you find here probably no health care facilities that live up to Swiss standards but Singapore is not too far away.

Stay No 4 in Bali within 8 years & return to Madeira

We love Bali – although it has not been spared from mass tourism. It has so much to offer in terms of natural and men-made attractions. In addition, local people are so nice and hospitable. Plus, we had hoped that fewer travelers should be around than before the pandemic. And we were right! Finally, we knew the place, and that is always favorable if you have some doubts – think of issues in the context of pandemic and health. It turned out to be a great experience again, here are my blogposts: findings after 4 stays in 8 years,

best walks,

best luxury hotels

and best fine dining in Ubud.

Between Christmas and New Year, we spent a week in Madeira. We had a lot of catching up to do – see above. And with this, we already have reached the year 2023!

2023, a special travel year

2023 is not just the first year where travel should be as it used to be before the pandemic, but it is also special to my husband and me, from a personal point of view. This is due to two factors. The first goes back to my husband’s health incident that happened end of 2021. From the start of 2023 on, we have the firm attention to spend our vacations in a more carefree way again. This means no more checking beforehand where you can find a high standard healthcare facility near the place where we are headed.

As far as the second factor is concerned, I will not elaborate further right now. This will probably happen when I do my next travel update. Anyway, we have great plans in terms of trips all over the world for this year. Actually, we have already booked all of them! As you may have noticed, there is a heavy demand for going away. So, we already had to do some amendments!

First to a domestic trip that is already over, our annual skiing respectively winter vacation.

6th or 7th stay at Hotel Waldhaus Sils Maria in Upper Engadine/Switzerland

After two stays in Zuoz – where there was a change of manager too – , we were ready for something new. It should be the Upper Engadine again. And so went to a place we have not visited in 16 years (How could we do that?). It is about Hotel Waldhaus in Sils Maria, and it was still as good as we remembered it. I have done two posts about this vacation, one about the hotel,

the other about 2 top winter walks in the area.

Now to what lies before us.

Does the Bhutan trip finally become true – booked for 2020, realized in 2023?

As already mentioned elsewhere on my blog, we have a trip of a lifetime booked pre-pandemic (for spring 2020) that finally seems to become true in 2023. And this is to Bhutan, a kingdom in the Himalayas between India and China. This country is said to be a mythical place with an unspoiled culture and nature. It has been open to the outside world only since the 1970s. And the government still prioritizes Gross National Happiness (GNH) over Gross Domestic Product (GDP).

My husband and I hope that everything as to our upcoming journey will fall in place. This also because of the fact that we already paid the full price for it back in 2020. To follow-up!

Photo by Ming Zimik: https://www.pexels.com/photo/paro-taktsang-in-bhutan-4525420/

Other plans for 2023

As to other booking arrangements we have made for 2023, I can inform you as follows. In summer, we will spend a few days in Zermatt in the southwestern Alps.

This because a friend of us celebrates a milestone birthday here. I myself have also such a birthday ahead of me this year. On this occasion we have planned a trip to the nearby abroad. The South Tyrol

will be our first destination to go before continuing to Lake Garda (for the first time ever). Our way home will be via Montreux

on Lake Geneva (where we will celebrate with our son and his girlfriend).

Later this year, there is supposed to be another once in a lifetime trip, this time to Chile. After a stopover in Buenos Aires, we will head to the Atacama Desert and to Patagonia

Photo by Claudio Mota: https://www.pexels.com/photo/birds-eye-view-of-the-grey-glacier-in-the-torres-del-paine-national-park-9638303/

as well as to Santiago de Chile and Valparaiso. And finally, Madeira is again on the agenda for the end of the year.

So, that is it to my travel update on Swiss Traveler. Let us see what happens between now and the end of 2023! Happy traveling to all of you!

The post What has happened in the last two years travel wise? And what is in store for 2023? first appeared on Swiss Traveler

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Hotel Waldhaus in Sils Maria, in the beautiful Engadine in the Swiss Alps, is a truly unique place. There is no other property in Switzerland of this kind. It has been family owned since it was constructed 115 years ago. There is a spirit of continuity here that is second to none. The Waldhaus is not just another luxury hotel, but it has a soul of its own. It may be best described with a list of characteristics: it is unpretentious, understated, full of character, affine to culture, luxurious but not too much so, affordable, near to Saint Moritz yet so far away from it. There would be more, but I do not want to try your patience. I will do my best to bring Hotel Waldhaus closer to you in the next paragraphs.

I start with detailing my connection to this hotel and letting you know more about the family that stands behind it. If you should wonder about where I got all this data, they published a book on the occasion of the Waldhaus’ 111th birthday in 2019 (also available in English). After doing this, I will go into the hotel’s features.

My personal relation to Waldhaus Sils

While my husband and I always very much liked our stays at the Waldhaus Sils, we have not been here for 16 years! Our (too long) absence did not have anything to do with the hotel but it was due to other factors. Instead of going to the Upper Engadine, which we adore, we rather went to Davos, another resort town in the Swiss Alps. This because we had business friends who had bought a hotel and personal friends who had acquired a vacation apartment here. And both happened at about the same time. Yet, in the meantime the situation has changed somehow, and we are free again to go wherever we please!

And so we decided to return to Hotel Waldhaus Sils Maria to spend a few days for skiing and winter walking (my next post will describe two great winter walks). In the past, we had come here rather in summertime for walking/hiking.

Our first stay dates back to 2000. Afterwards, we returned six times more. And the last stay before our current one was in 2007. We always went as a family, with our son, when he was a child and a young teen. Our recent visit was actually the first where my husband and I went on our own. But we have already decided to come back with our son and his girlfriend when the occasion arises!

And how was our coming back? Walking through the Waldhaus’ entrance door was like we had never been away. But this does not mean that the time has stood still here. The hotel has moved on – there were some remodeling projects – yet without losing its original flair. In the meantime, a new generation – the fifth – has taken over yet the old one is still present. The same is true for quite a number of staff. Above all, that is about the Maître d’Hôtel (the restaurant manager), Walter Nana, who has been working here for 38 years! And we were warmly welcomed back!

Hotel Waldhaus Sils’ backstory

Generation I (about 1908 – 1918)

Waldhaus Sils was opened in 1908, and this after the relatively short construction time of two years. Josef Giger was the founder, who used to manage Hotel Hof Ragaz in Bad Ragaz in eastern Switzerland, and he managed it together with his wife Amalie (generation I). After long years in the upscale hospitality business, Josef Giger knew exactly what he wanted his hotel to be. It should be beautiful and grand yet at the same time “practical and solid”. What he did not have in mind, was some kind of palatial building.

The result is some kind of a fortress. While it majestically sits on a hill above the village of Sils Maria, surrounded by forest, it is no palace. However, it is far from being modest. It definitely wants to impress. From its style, you can best describe it as historicist. There is also no true front and back. As to the number of rooms, there are 140 of them today, about the same as in 1908.

Generation II (about 1918 – 1960)

After the death of Josef and Amalie Giger, one of her daughters, Helen, took over with her husband, Oskar Kienberger. Funnily enough, this is the son of one of Josef Giger’s peers – he used to manage Hotel Quellenhof in Bad Ragaz at the same time as he was in charge of the neighboring Hotel Hof Ragaz.

They went through no easy time, the global economic crisis hit the Waldhaus hard. And the second world war that followed was not any different. But shortly after the end of the war, there was more or less business as usual at the Waldhaus. As the zeitgeist demanded, all the hotel rooms became equipped with bathrooms. The rapid spread of the automobile made it also necessary to construct garage buildings.

Generation III (about 1960 – 1987)

Rolf, one of Helen and Oskar Kienberger’s sons, soon became the designated successor of the family business, and this together with his wife Rita. He was responsible for the reintroduction of the winter season at the Waldhaus. At the beginning, his father opposed – he had made some bad experiences in this respect – , but in the end this decision turned out to be the right one. The overnight stays increased significantly afterwards.

Under Rolf’s helm, an indoor swimming pool started its operation (1969/70). Also the dining-room was updated and enlarged (1978). Then the “Palais du Garage” was opened too (1982/83). It contained not only an underground car park but also tennis courts, indoor and outdoor. And the first kitchen renovation took place (1977).

Generation IV (about 1987 – 2010)

After the era Rolf Kienberger, a new name appeared, Felix Dietrich. Rolf was his godfather and soon discovered his suitability for a job in the hospitality field. And when this talented young man fell in love with Maria, one of Rolf and Rita’s daughters, all the better. After their wedding, they worked at the side of Rita and Rolf Kienberger until they took over completely in 1987. Two years afterwards, they were joined by Urs Kienberger, Maria’s brother, who had pursed a career as economist before.

And the success story of Waldhaus went on under the lead of this trio. They showed engagement in different areas. Among others, culture became more important (lectures, concerts, book presentations, excursions, theater performances). While pursuing such activities, the hotel directors always made sure that they complement the hotel’s everyday life. In no way, culture was meant to be in the foreground.

With the fourth generation on the helm, the kitchen was once again overhauled, along with some neighboring spaces (2008, costs of 10 million SFR/US$). This was also the point of time when a chef’s table was introduced. Furthermore, the hotel lounge was enlarged by 6 m (20 ft) into the forest (1991) and a second underground car park was built (1999).

Generation V (from 2010)

While Felix Dietrich stepped back in 2010 at the age of 60, Urs Kienberger had not been ready yet (two years younger). He wanted to stand by the next generation for some more time (2014). The new leading force as from 2010 consisted of Maria and Felix Dietrich’s two sons. Claudio (born 1977) is responsible for the operational and administrative management, Patrick (born 1980) for guest relations.

Under the lead of Urs Kienberger, the smokers were “relocated” from the bar into a newly constructed smoking room. This change made it necessary to move the à la carte restaurant Arvenstube towards east (2011/12, more than 2.5 million SFR/US$). The youngsters on their part tackled the major project of a spa, which was a heathen task. This because most of this new building is underneath the ground (2016/17, costs of a little less than 11 million SFR/US$).

Otherwise, Claudio and Patrick do their best to continue the work of their ancestors, and as my husband and I thought, very successfully. As to their appearance and personality, Claudio reminds us of his father. With regard to Patrick, he definitely has quite some genes from the Kienberger’s side.

Location of Hotel Waldhaus Sils Maria Engadine

I have already mentioned it, Hotel Waldhaus is located in Sils Maria. This is a small town on Lake Sils in the Upper Engadine, a marvel long high Alpine valley in eastern Switzerland. The accommodation towers high above Sils at the start of the Fex Valley, a beautiful side valley, which is a mostly car-free zone (if you like winter walking, one of the two walks in my next post heads here). The Waldhaus is amidst a larch forest, and you enjoy unobscured views of the surroundings from here.

The most desirable view is probably to the west towards Lake Sils and Maloja.

Yet also the one to the south (Fex Valley) is nice. I personally like to overlook Lake Silvaplana and Sils (east side).

The latter is also in the direction where Saint Moritz lies, from which you probably have already heard about. This glamorous resort town has the reputation of being one of those places (see my post) where the rich and famous like to reside. While it definitely is no beauty, you find here lots of renowned hotels – which I find overpriced in the winter season – , chic shops and restaurants. When staying at Hotel Waldhaus, you are close to Saint Moritz (about 10 km/6.2 mi away), yet this fashionable spot seems like a world apart from the tranquility in Sils.

Ambiance at Hotel Waldhaus Sils Maria Engadine

In case you are fond of hotels full of people who display their wealth and put on an ostentatious show of their possessions, then you are probably better off in one of the Saint Moritz properties. In contrast, if you are more into understated luxury, then you might be in the right place at the Waldhaus. It is not so that you find here not all the amenities of a five-star accommodation yet it is neither pompous nor glamorous.

Hotel Waldhaus was named “Historic Hotel of the Year” in 2005 by ICOMOS, the International Council on Monuments and Sites. And again in 2015, it got a special anniversary award “20 years of Historic Hotels of the Year”. And they know here how to preserve the old without being old-fashioned. Renewal projects are carried out when the time is ripe. Yet they are usually no fast starters. As a family business, it takes consideration to realize huge renovation plans.

I already let you know that culture is important at the Waldhaus. There are not only a number of activities in this respect – all with the intent of complementing the every day life at the hotel – , you find here also a quite a number of guests with an affinity for the fine arts. The hotel also seems to attract people that work in this scene. On our stays, we have encountered several “celebrities”. When visiting a short time ago, we happened to notice one of the most notable Swiss architects among the guests.

Staff at Hotel Waldhaus Sils Maria Engadine

Not only there are lots of returning guests at the Waldhaus (70% and more), also the staff shows great loyalty to this hotel. After 16 years of not being here, my husband and I still recognized some employees at the restaurant on our recent stay. This is true not only for Walter Nana, the restaurant manager, as mentioned above, but for others too. For example, Oscar Comalli, the sommelier, has been working here since 1992.

There is also longtime staff in the kitchen. The chef patissier, Renato Pellegrinelli, has been occupied at the Waldhaus for more than 30 years!

If you wonder about the number of employees, there are about 170 of them. They are responsible for about 240 guests at full occupancy. As to the staff’s attitude, all of them are hospitable and friendly. You get the feeling that their service mentality is genuine. Their friendliness does not come across as fake. And a personal touch is for sure at most times.

Rooms/Pricing

Earlier on, I already informed on the guest rooms’ views. From out of the 140 rooms, you can make your choice of a variety of categories. For the two of you – there is also a large selection for solo travelers – , you can decide on four options: 2a* Junior Suite, 2a Best, 2b Standard and 2c Small. In addition, there are three kind of suites available. In case you care for views towards south and west, there is an additional charge.

As to the seasons, you find here four different ones. PEAK is around Christmas and New Year as well as from about the second week of February through end of February. In the remaining winter times, you pay either the HIGH rates or minus 10% (shoulder season) or 20% (low season). In summer, there is no PEAK and only one HIGH season, and this from about the last week of July to mid-August. The rest is available with a discount of 10% or 20% as above.

The rates start at 485 SFR/US$ (two persons, 2c Small, minus 20% low season, 2022/2023). They include half board. In case you only want to have breakfast you pay 50 SFR/US$ less per person. And three styles of rooms are at your disposal: classic, modern and nostalgic. The latter rooms come with the original restored furnishings from 1908. I consider this pricing as reasonable, especially compared to the one in Saint Moritz, which is – I repeat myself – over the top, especially in wintertime.

2a* Junior-Suite: our choice of room at Hotel Waldhaus Sils Maria

As my husband and I prefer to have enough space, we went for the biggest double room, the 2a* Junior Suite. This category offers a surface of 40 to 50 sqm. There is a large bathroom with double sinks plus a tub and a separate shower.

And there is a comfortable seating area too. In our case, the room also featured a spacious separate toilet with a generous washbasin.

We had not asked for a preferred view towards south or west. So, we overlooked the east towards Lake Silvaplana, which is in fact my favorite one.

While we were in favor of our room – we opted for a modern one – , I was not especially fond of the carpet (“dirty” hue, which did not fit the color concept of the furnishings). And I would have preferred a sofa and an armchair instead of two armchairs. But those were little things. Overall, we were satisfied and felt at ease in our room.

Other facilities/Services at Hotel Waldhaus Sils

Waldhaus Sils has all the offerings you expect from a five-star property plus some more which you seldom find at other comparable houses. I am talking in this context about cultural activities in particular (see below). Another interesting fact about this hotel is that a full spa has been only available since the winter season 2016/17. Details follow in the respective section. Last but not least, there has been a new restaurant onsite since the winter season 2020/21, the GIGERS. More about it you find just afterwards.

Restaurants

There are four dining-spots available, from which three are possible to book also for outside guests (all but the Waldhaus Dining-Room). In case you care for smaller bites only, you can have them at the Bar and at this wonderful Great Lounge.

In addition, you find here also a terrace for warmer days. Executive Chef at the Waldhaus kitchen is Gero Porstein, who has been in charge in this function since 2018. Before, he was Executive Chef at the Carlton Hotel Saint Moritz (Restaurant Vittorio) and Hotel Eden Roc in Ascona (Restaurant Marina).

GIGERS

I start with the GIGERS as I have just mentioned it above. It is named after the founder of the Waldhaus, Josef Giger. You find it at the spot where the third tennis court used to be, across the street just adjoining the separate building (“Palais du Garage”). The nickname for it is “fondue restaurant”. Yet of course you get here more than that, yet basically expect comfort food here. GIGERS is housed in a modern building, a wooden quadrangle, at the edge of the larch forest. As I have not eaten here, I cannot comment how it is.

Arvenstube

The second restaurant that I do not now from personal experience is the Arvenstube (Stübli made of Swiss pine wood). It is about the à la carte dining-spot where they serve modern Swiss cuisine, based on traditional recipes, with local produce. If you wonder why I have not yet dined here nor at GIGERS, the answer can be found in the next restaurant that I am going into.

Waldhaus Dining-Room

This is the Waldhaus Dining-Room, precisely the dining-rooms.

Here you have dinner in case you are on half board, which most of the guests staying at the Waldhaus are. It is always a festive and at the same time a relaxed affair, taking in the meals at these elegant, high-ceiling dining-rooms. For my husband and me it is a much loved “ritual” which we do not want to miss, unless it is for the Chef’s Table (see below). On offer here  are three menus, which change daily, and from which you can order four to five courses. The food is sophisticated yet without chichi, made of high-quality produce, locally sourced whenever possible.

Chef’s Table

A fourth option is the mentioned Chef’s Table. It is available usually on Mondays or on request. And it is really worth booking if you are a wine lover and interested in witnessing the hustle and bustle of a large hotel cuisine.

The premises are quite a sight too: huge, high-ceilings and high windows.

And you are very close to all the happenings in here when seated at the long table by the windows. Before, you have an aperitif in the well-stocked wine cellar,

where you are part of choosing the today’s wines. And they are not stingy in this respect!

This experience (five courses including all drinks), which I strongly recommend, costs 265 SFR/US$ for non-Waldhaus guests and 195 SFR/US$ for Waldhaus guests (145 SFR/US$ if you are on half board).

Spa

I have already written a few word about the new spa, significantly expanded a few years ago. It now consists of 1,500 sqm of wellbeing, between water and the surrounding larch forest. The architect team of Miller & Maranta created a modern building that seamlessly mergers with the surroundings. And the existing indoor pool was cleverly included into the construction. There is also a fitness room, with fitness equipment by Technogym. The spa is under the management of a family member, Carla Lehner-Dietrich, from the fifth generation.

On the premises, you find a Finnish and a bio sauna along with steam baths, relaxation rooms, plunge and Kneipp pools as well as Swiss pine and larch relaxation pools. I am not much of a spa goer, but I really enjoyed the later two, which are beneficial after a long skiing or hiking day. And I found that they were appropriate from their size too.

Culture/Events

I already let you know about the hotel’s affinity to culture. For every guest to see, there is the house orchestra. It is a resident trio who plays salon music. And this in the great lounge during tea time and in the evening at the bar. While I find the former a good thing, I am not a particular fan of the latter. At a late hour, they often tend to play light music from days long gone by, which I personally find a bit out of place. But of course, this is a matter of taste.

Furthermore, the Waldhaus hosts and organizes numerous cultural events. Readings and concerts regularly take place here. A highlight is “Resonanzen” (“resonances”), an international cultural festival in September. Here you enjoy first-rate chamber music, readings and lectures.

Overall Hotel Waldhaus Sils Engadine

If you want to spend a few days in the splendid Upper Engadine in the eastern Swiss Alps and care for subdued and laid-back luxury, there is in my opinion no better option in the Saint Moritz area than Hotel Waldhaus Sils. You are close to the  glamorous vacation resort of Saint Moritz but far enough from its hustle and bustle. Here in beautiful natural surroundings above the village of Sils Maria you are more in for tranquility and low-keyness. While the Waldhaus is absolutely suitable for the luxury-minded traveler, it does not feel flashy. In addition, the hotel is relatively affordable and its clientele is more on the distinguished side. Plus, this lodging has been family owned and managed since 1908. And although the Waldhaus is a grand old dame, all the necessary renewals have been done!

What is next?

As we last visited Hotel Waldhaus Sils Engadine in wintertime, my husband and did activities like skiing and winter walking/hiking. And we did two truly beautiful walks/hikes that started right from this hotel. My next post will be about those. Come back and have a look if you are into this kind of activity!  I must claim that these two walks/hikes are the best I have ever done in this respect!

Last stay: February 2023

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The post 5-star Hotel Waldhaus Sils Maria, a unique grand hotel in the Engadine, Switzerland first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post 5-star Hotel Waldhaus Sils Maria, a unique grand hotel in the Engadine, Switzerland appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Winter vacations – skiing & winter hiking – is something that my husband and I do every year. And for this purpose, we favor upscale ski-in/ski-out hotels in Switzerland. While we had opted for Zermatt in the western Swiss Alps in recent years, we were looking for alternatives in this Corona winter. We felt like going to smaller ski resorts where we do not have to hop on crowded gondolas. In addition, we wanted to go somewhere with opportunities for winter hiking. And we found two great high-class hotels that were an ideal fit!

Both places we went to are in the eastern Swiss Alps. This was not a deliberate choice but more of a coincidence (best weather forecasts). On the one hand, we went to Arosa where we spent a few days over New Year at the Tschuggen Grand Hotel. On the other hand, we headed to the Upper Engadine, precisely to Zuoz, for winter vacations at the Hotel Castell.

While both hotels are good picks for demanding guests, they differ in several essential aspects. I start with giving you information about the Tschuggen Grand Hotel, followed by details on the Hotel Castell. Before doing so, I have to make an important point. Although it is about winter vacations in this blogpost, the resorts of Arosa and Zuoz are likewise suitable for summer tourism too! When I come to the respective hotels, I will quickly point out some possible activities for both seasons.

Tschuggen Grand Hotel *****^S Arosa

Just a few facts about the mountain resort Arosa, before diving into the hotel!

About Arosa – and what to do

Arosa in the canton of Grisons is a great destination, both in winter and summer. While in wintertime it is all about skiing and winter hiking,

you come here in summer especially for hiking and biking.

The ski-resort has been linked with the neighboring Lenzerheide since 2013. This makes it to one of the larger ski areas in the area with a total of 225 km (140 mi) of ski slopes. And Arosa Lenzerheide also features 140 km (87 mi) of winter hiking trails.

In summer, you can choose among 200 km (124 mi) of varied hiking and walking trails. And if you prefer biking, 141 cycle routes await you.

Location

Arosa lies at end of a sometimes narrow, very curvy road (Supposedly 365 curves!) that starts in Chur, the capital of Grisons. It is much easier to reach it by train instead, departing from the town of Chur as well. Once arrived in Arosa, you have to go further, to the so-called Innerarosa, to come to the Tschuggen. The hotel is just off the Obere Waldpromenade (upper forest promenade) and quietly located at the edge of the ski area.

And it has its own mountain railway, called Tschuggen Express.

It brings hotel guests in less than four minutes to the core of the ski area, and to many winter hiking trails too.  This is truly a unique ski-in/ski-out service in Switzerland!

Facilities

The hotel calls itself Tschuggen Grand Hotel, but be prepared, it does not appear as typical grand hotel! That is because the original building, dating from 1929, burned down in 1966. The hotel was reopened in 1970, built in contemporary architecture (it is not really a feast for the eyes).

Having said this, you find something here that really pleases the eye, the Tschuggen Bergoase (mountain oasis), the spa complex. The famous Swiss architect Mario Botta did the design, and it truly is an unmistakable landmark!

The wellness facilities are impressive, covering an area of 5,000 sqm. You find here several pools,

various saunas/steam baths, twelve treatment rooms, a separate ladies’ area, a hairstylist, a fitness center, medical wellness offerings and private spa suites.

On site, there are several restaurants (check out the separate chapter “food”), a number of boutiques, ski rentals and sale, E-mountain bikes to lend and a kindergarten. And the Tschuggen Grand Hotel is a member of The Leading Hotels of the World. It is also part of the Tschuggen Hotel Group that includes Hotel Eden Roc in Ascona (see here my blogpost about it), Carlton Hotel in Saint Moritz and Valsana Hotel in Arosa.

When it comes to the interior design, Carlo Rampazzi, was responsible for the décor. While it is similar to the one in the sister hotel Eden Roc Ascona, it is a bit less extravagant. I would it describe as elegant with rustic elements, adapted to the mountain world.

Rooms/Pricing

The total number of rooms is 128, from which are 34 suites and junior suites. Winter prices range from 365 to 3,590 SFR/US$, summer prices from 240 to 1,625 SFR/US$, and this per room including breakfast.

My husband and I chose the most upscale double room for our five-day stay over New Year, a Deluxe Double Room. The room we had was south facing and spacious enough (40 sqm). It boasted a sun loggia with a great view of the area, a granite bathroom

and my dearest feature, two comfortable leather armchairs.

Although it was a pleasant and comfortable room, it was not worth its high price tag (1,750 SFR/US$ per day including half board). Unfortunately it is a fact that you have to overspend if you want to vacate at this time at a luxury hotel in the Swiss mountains!

Food

If you want to dine at the Tschuggen “only,” opting for the half-board arrangement (dine around) is the thing to do. And that is what my husband and I went for. It costs 70 SFR/US$ in winter and 60 SFR/US$ in summer. If you do not make any bookings, you dine at the main restaurant, the elegant Grand Restaurant.

Here you choose five courses from a daily changing menu offering a vast selection. And the food is impeccable! I especially liked the Moving Mountains Signature Menu with modern and healthy dishes.

Alternatively, you can opt for the following restaurants: the gourmet restaurant (La Brezza for the winter season 2020/21), La Collina (informal, with a touch of the south), The Basement (casual, burgers, salads & steaks), Tschuggen Bar (small bites)

and the Spa Lounge (light bites, until 7 p.m.). In addition, the dine around also includes the Restaurant Twist at the sister hotel Valsana and the Restaurant Alpenblick, a mountain restaurant.

Normally, my husband and I like to try out the gourmet restaurants on site. This was not the case this time. We already know la Brezza (one star Michelin & 17 points Gault-Millau) from several fabulous dinners in Ascona where it has normally its domicile at the Eden Roc (post). And we found the food at the main restaurant, the Grand Restaurant, very good. Also the New Year’s Eve dinner was excellent.

Ambiance/Staff

As mentioned, the Tschuggen does not ooze the typical Grand Hotel atmosphere. And it has nothing of that rustic chalet-style hotel you often see in the mountains. Instead it is a just an ordinary high-rise building from the late sixties. Fortunately, it was “pimped up” with the spa building. Nine “sails”, made of steel and glass, direct the sun into the wellness center in daytime.

At night, they shine into the mountains in many colors.

When entering the lobby, a large space stretches out in front of you. At the same time, the ceiling height is low. And it is quite dark in here. One more thing caught my eye, the Tschuggen Bar is also part of this space. And it seamlessly begins near the elevators, which I find a bit odd.

Nevertheless, the interiors and the staff’s attitude exude elegance. In accordance with it, the crowd seems to consist of well-heeled couples and families. As to the service, it was excellent from start to finish. Especially the servers in the Grand Restaurant hit the perfect notes of warmth and friendliness with that touch of formality you expect from a luxury hotel.

Hotel Castell ****^S Zuoz, Upper Engadine

UPDATE: new management as from April 2022 (Christine Abel & Matthias Wettstein, before Sorell Hotel Tamina Bad Ragaz & Hotel Guarda Val Lenzerheide / former management (Irene & Martin Mueller) at Hotel Maistra160 Pontresina since October 2022 (hotel opening in summer 2023)

Just as with the Tschuggen Grand Hotel, some words to the mountain village Zuoz first! And then it goes to the hotel.

About Zuoz – and what to do

Zuoz is part of the Engadine, a long high Alpine valley in the canton of Grisons in the eastern Swiss Alps. While most people have already heard of the glamorous mountain resort here, Saint Moritz, Zuoz is less known. However, it is one the most beautiful villages in the Upper Engadine with stunningly adorned Engadine houses and gorgeous patrician buildings.

And if you travel with children, Zuoz was awarded the label of a Family Destination.

Zuoz’s ski area is not large (five lifts only), however surprisingly suitable for beginners and advanced skiers likewise. And if you would like to ski elsewhere in the Engadine, no worry. The Sleep + Ski offer of participating hotels allows you to purchase a ski pass at the favorable price of 45 SFR/US$ per day (for the whole stay only). If you want to go winter hiking instead, there are lots of such trails, too.

In summer, the Upper Engadine offers 580 km (360 mi) of varied hiking trails. If you are into biking, 537 cycle routes are here at your disposal. And in case you are a golfer, Zuoz-Madulain has its own 18-hole golf course.

Location

Here we are in the picturesque Upper Engadine yet it feels far away from showy Saint Moritz! You reach the hotel in twenty minutes by car from Saint Moritz. If you travel by train, it brings you in less than 30 minutes from Saint Moritz to the railway station in Zuoz (where they pick you up from the hotel if desired).

The Castell towers high above the idyllic village of Zuoz.

From here you reach the hotel in twenty minutes by foot. Alternatively, there is the hotel shuttle bus between Zuoz village and the Castell. From the hotel you have fantastic views of the Inn valley (Inntal). You are only steps away from the ski slopes, so it is ideal for a perfect ski-in/ski-out experience. If you prefer skiing in the Saint Moritz area, there is a shuttle available. Hiking trails start right by the hotel. And the best is the tranquil setting far from the hustle and bustle of Saint Moritz.

Facilities

The Castell is a four-star superior hotel and that comes along with fewer amenities compared to a five-star accommodation. What caught my eye first that there is no doorman service. We were asked if we needed help with the baggage. But we (politely) denied when we saw that other guests carried their suitcases themselves to their room. And the ski room is frugal with no assigned compartment for each party. There is also no turn down service but I can do well without it, especially in these Corona times.

Otherwise, there is everything you need, I think, also for discerning guests. First of all, the hotel is in a beautiful Art Nouveau building, constructed in 1913.

In 1996, Ruedi Bechtler, an art collector, bought it, renovated it (in 2004) and converted it into a “art hotel”. Everywhere you go, you are confronted with art. I think it is the only hotel where I have walked down all the corridors to have a look at the art on the walls!

As to the restaurant, please refer to the separate chapter “food”. In term of wellness, there is a hammam on site offering a relaxing and cleansing ritual, which is a nice thing to do. Massages and treatments are also available. Furthermore, there is an outdoor wellness area consisting of a rock pool (only in summer, not for swimming) and a small Finnish sauna hut.

At the top of the hotel tower you find a small fitness room.

What it lacks in size, it makes up for with commanding views!

It may further be mentioned that the Castell is very child friendly. You find here a kids club, a supervised children’s table, a playground in summer, an ice rink in winter, hammam visits for kids and others. And to complete the offerings, the hotel has its own studio cinema.

Rooms/Pricing

Out of the 68 rooms you can choose from nine categories. The smallest room is 20 sqm (Castell), the biggest room 40 sqm (Junior Suite resp. Family Room). While half the rooms are designed in a modern style (UN-Studios Amsterdam), the other half is kept in a contemporary Alpine décor (architect Hans-Joerg Ruch Saint Moritz). Rates are (Easter 2021) from 252 to 414 SFR/US$ with breakfast per room and day. Half board costs 65 SFR/US$ more per person and day. I found the pricing very reasonable and affordable.

My husband and went for the Junior Suite, the largest room (together with the Family Room) with splendid views of the Inn valley.

We were on the second floor, just above the outdoor restaurant (which was a bit inconvenient because it served as smoking area). It is a comfortable albeit not fancy accommodation in a minimalistic décor. The room is full of local pinewood. It features a large walk-in closet, a seating area, an electrically adjustable bed, a small balcony  and a spacious bathroom with bathtub and separate shower.

Food

When looking for something to eat, you can choose among the restaurant, the bar or the terrace (weather permitting). The restaurant offers two opportunities, the beautiful Art Nouveau dining room

and the Belvair,

another enchanting space.

The food at the Castell Restaurant is great! If you are on half board, you can choose four courses from the daily changing menu. And the size of portions is quite generous.

The chef, Helmut Leitner, has been in charge since late 2015. He stems from the South Tyrol, and you notice that Italian-German touch in his refined cuisine (14 points Gault Millau). If you care for fine wines, then put yourselves in the hands of Martin Mueller, the hotel manager. He is not only a proven wine expert but has real finds in the wine cellar. And they are also reasonably priced!

For lunch or smaller bites, head to The Red Bar. This truly is an eye-catcher, designed by Gabrielle Haechler, a Zurich architect, and Pipilotti Rist, an internationally recognized artist.

When the weather permits it, you also can have a seat on the inviting terrace, a work of the Japanese artist Tadashi Kawamata.

Ambiance/Staff

If you are on the lookout for pure luxury, a distinguished clientele or a place where people dress up in the evening, the Castell might be not your first choice. However, if you favor a casual relaxed atmosphere where a diverse crowd gathers to live the good life, you are right here.

The hotel is a gem, and this in many respects: the location, the building, the interiors, the artsy feel, the food. The only thing that cannot fully keep up with it, are the guest rooms which tend to be a bit too much on the functional side. Having said that, you do not have to break your wallet when vacationing here.

There is one more plus point at the Castell, the husband-and-wife-team who have managed the place since the 2015 summer season, Irene and Martin Mueller. When my husband and I met the wife upon arrival, I was sure sure that I knew her from somewhere. After some thinking,  it came to my mind. We knew the two of them from several stays at the Hotel Waldhaus in Sils where they had been working for 15 years. And this in a memorable way! And they really do a great job at the Castell, too. The same goes for the staff, who knows its stuff.

Overall: ski-in/ski-out in style

My husband and I got to know two ski-in/ski-out high class hotels in Switzerland in this winter season, the Tschuggen in Arosa and the Castell in Zuoz. Both are located in the eastern Swiss Alps. While they both offer a preferred location, good-quality facilities and dining in style, the similarities end here.

As to the facilities, it is clear that the the five-star superior Hotel Tschuggen has more to offer in this regard than the four-star superior Hotel Castell. For example, there is no doorman service, only a small functional ski room and no turndown in the evening at the latter. However, you don’t have to deprive yourself of other amenities at the Castell!

When it comes to the guest rooms, the ones at the Castell are a bit on the frugal side yet well-kept. And you get value for money here. Go for the Junior Suite here if you care for more space and both a bathtub and a separate shower. The Tschuggen has nicely appointed rooms but be prepared to fork out some cash at certain times (for instance over New Year).

In terms of ambiance, the Tschuggen is an elegant place where immaculate staff is of service to an affluent clientele. If you appreciate a more laid-back ambiance along a varied crowd and great hospitality by a husband-and-wife-team, you are better off at the Castell.

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Date of stay: Tschuggen January 2021, Castell February 2021

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It has been a year since Corona emerged in western Europa, and it seems to be a good opportunity to look back and forward. Since my last update end of September 2020, I have been able to do some domestic travel in Switzerland one time or the other – despite the pandemic. I also did some cornerstone content about Switzerland, my home country. Then I published six posts about my last big trip before the virus took a stranglehold on the world. This was a truly memorable Japanese journey back in 2019. And finally, I also have a travel idea for the time to come.

Travel in Switzerland in Corona times

Lucky me, I live in Switzerland where domestic travel was still possible in large parts of the Corona year of 2020 and later. After the end of the first lockdown on May 11, it was possible to travel again, domestically and even internationally to some extent.

When the second surge arose mid October, local travel was still possible yet less desirable. As from December 22, the second lockdown came into effect. Restaurants had to close, but hotels could stay open. The same was true for hotel restaurants – and ski slopes.

Towards the end of 2020 and at the beginning of 2021, some parts of Switzerland turned into hotspots of foreign travelers. This was due to the somewhat lax Corona regime with fewer restrictions that in many neighboring countries. This changed mid January 2021 when traveling to Switzerland from abroad became more difficult. However, for Swiss people domestic travel was always an option. While it was not exactly encouraged by the Swiss government, there were no obstacles in the way of doing so.

Lots of domestic travel in Switzerland since my last big trip

I almost always traveled domestically during the first three quarters of 2020 (see my last travel update). My last big trip took place in November 2019 and went to Japan. I have recently published on my blog the last five of six posts in total about my Japanese journey. The topics included luxury hotels, find and reserve (Michelin) restaurants, our choice of gourmet dining-spots, luxury ryokan experience and two off the beaten path destinations.

As it was my first Japanese journey ever, I did the so-called “Golden Triangle of Japan” (Tokyo-Kyoto-Osaka) with three extensions (Hakone, Takayama & Kanazawa). This route also goes under the name of “The Second Golden Triangle of Japan”. And to get a taste of rural Japan too, I even went beyond, and this to Kiso Valley and to Yakushima Island (itinerary).

More domestic travel in the last quarter of 2020 

My last vacation in 2020, together with my husband, was in November. Originally, we had wanted to go to west Australia. But of course we had to cancel our arrangements. As a long-haul journey end of 2020 did not seem appropriate, we instead contented ourselves with yet another local trip.

Gourmet delights at three-star Michelin chef in southeastern Switzerland

We checked out the weather forecasts and the Corona situation and headed to the southeast of Switzerland. We were lucky and could get a reservation at one of the three Michelin three star restaurants in my home country. And this was a last minute offer for staying and dining at Schauenstein Castle in Fuerstenau in the southeastern pre-Alps. Here Andreas Caminada, probably Switzerland’s most famous chef, performs his magic (my post).

Mediterranean feelings in South Tyrol, Italy’s northernmost province

Then we continued to go east, and left Switzerland in the direction of the South Tyrol. This is Italy’s northernmost province – adjacent to Switzerland. Here they speak German (and Italian) and you find everything from Alpine peaks (the Dolomites) to Mediterranean areas (Merano). My husband and I felt like going to warmer climes and settled therefore for the latter.

We had a great three-day stay at the Hotel Villa Eden in Merano (my post about two great luxury here) and wanted to add another two days at the Hotel The Terra – The Magic Place – , situated a bit higher up in the mountains. I had been looking forward very much to our stay here. The hotel features a remote setting, views of the Dolomites and a two-star Michelin restaurant. But then the Governor of South Tyrol shut down the province to tourists because of Corona. And so we went back to Switzerland.

Yet more Mediterranean vibes in Ticino, Switzerland’s south

After a short-stay in the Lower Engadine (Scuol, Hotel Guarda Val), we proceeded on to the south of Switzerland, Ticino, once again. In late summer we had spent a week in Ascona. Now we opted for Lugano, and this at the fabulous Hotel Splendide Royal. After three days here we even prolonged our stay for two more days (my post)!

As to details to hotels, restaurants and activities of 2020, I am unfortunately behind schedule, sorry for that! Hopefully, I will be able to deliver correspondent blogposts in the time to come!

Ski vacations end of 2020 & beginning of 2021

While my husband and I wanted to spend the time over New Year with friends in Davos at their vacation home in the first place, we canceled this arrangement. Restaurants were closed at the time and the ski resort had already filled up with masses of tourists before Christmas. And it was to be feared that going into town and shop would be a nightmare.

Skiing & winter hiking in Arosa in the southeastern Swiss Alps

As we did not want to stay at home during these holidays, we looked around for an alternative. Usually, my husband and I are hesitant about booking a stay at a ski resort over New Year as the rates are far too high. But given the Corona situation coming along with lots of cancelled trips, we decided to make an exception.

After thinking long and hard, we went for a five-day stay at the Tschuggen Grand Hotel in Arosa in the southeastern Swiss Alps. We already knew its sister hotel Eden Roc (my post) in Ascona and we were familiar with the ski resort, too. As we booked short-term, we could make sure that we went for the ideal place in terms of the weather situation. And it turned out well – both the weather and the hotel!

Skiing & winter hiking in Zuoz/Upper Engadine in the Swiss Alps

Back from Arosa it was already time to give the subject of the annual ski vacation some thoughts!

Normally, we book them well in advance, but not this time, due to Corona. My husband and I were not eager to plunge into the fray alongside tons of other skiers. And we went on a search for the ideal place. Conditions to be fulfilled were: favorable weather forecasts, quiet location, opportunities for skiing (ski-in/ski-out if possible) and winter hiking, reasonable pricing (as we had overspent over New Year).

And we did make a find! We chose Hotel Castell in Zuoz in the Upper Engadine, again in the southeastern Swiss Alps. While the ski area of Zuoz is small and ideal for families, the slopes were perfect (also for advanced skiers) and empty! And the hotel was a real find!

Soon on my blog you will find more information on these two hotels, which are both suitable not only for winter vacations but for other seasons, too.

Where do I go next? More domestic travel?

That is the big question! Originally, we had booked a Bhutan trip for April 2021 – actually already for April 2020, and we had payed it in advance And of course, we had to postpone it one more time! And now my husband and I are faced with the question of what to do instead. The Corona situation presents itself unstable. There are simply too  many questions marks. We do not feel confident enough to book an air trip. And the near abroad does not seem to be a great option either.

The situation, as it is today, makes us opting for just another “Swisscation”. Switzerland has definitely much to offer as a travel destination. Yet, I have already experienced quite a lot of recent staycations. And I feel like crying out for a real change – not for more of the same.

Having said that, we need to be realistic, and that means more domestic travel in Switzerland. Actually, there are still regions in my home country that I want to travel a bit deeper. In this context, I especially think of the western part of Switzerland, the French speaking one. Let us see what comes out of it!

What is going on my blog?

Cornerstone content Switzerland

After so many Switzerland trips, I thought that it was high time to dive a bit deeper into travel opportunities in my home country. And so I created some cornerstone content for Switzerland. What is this about? This is supposed to be content of enduring value. It is intended as help for (luxury) travelers wanting to make the best out of their Swiss journey.

My evergreen content for Switzerland, which I will update regularly, covers following topics. First, there is a guide how to visit this Alpine country. I suggest one basic tour that you can complement with five modular tours as you please. All together goes under the name of “Grand Tour Switzerland”.

Second, you will find advice on which luxury hotels to choose along the route described (part one and two). Third, I did the same for (Michelin) fine dining when traveling the “Grand Tour Switzerland” (part one and two). And finally, I highlighted premium destinations that have a certain “sexiness”.

What is next on my blog?

My next step will be to write about the two hotels in the Swiss Alps where I have been recently (Hotel Castell Zuoz and Hotel Tschuggen Arosa). Then I want to point out two great luxury hotels in the South Tyrol, Italy’s northernmost province. I also would like to go into where to stay & dine in style in Lugano, Switzerland’s south. And I want to report on how it is staying and dining at Restaurant Schauenstein in Fuerstenau in the Swiss pre-Alps. This is Andreas Caminada’s place, one of Switzerland’s best chefs.

Sometime in between, I will publish a post (already finished) about lunching and hiking in Switzerland’s most beautiful wine region, the Lavaux. And there are quite a few restaurants and the one or the other hotel still waiting to be reported on. You see that I am not running out of work, despite Corona!

The post My travel update after a year of Corona regime first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post My travel update after a year of Corona regime appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

It may be a bit early to give a final judgement on my (Corona) travel year of 2020 but I do not think that there will be many surprises waiting for me in this context until December. At least no positives ones! In the worst case, it will come down to an actual stop of traveling abroad. But hey, hope dies last! Having said that, let us stay realistic. The travel year of 2020 is a disaster, at least when it comes to international trips. And it is to be feared that it may not be much better in 2021, too! This unsatisfied desire for wanderlust makes me think about the importance of travel. Why do people feel such a need to explore distant destinations? 

Travel wrap up 2020

1. Early Corona times

When I started my first vacation towards end of January 2020 – one week skiing in Zermatt

in Switzerland – , the threat of Corona was already looming. There were some occasional cases in Europe yet the dimension of this virus was far from being clear. Shortly afterwards, as from March 16, Switzerland was placed on lockdown, and this until May 11.

My husband and I had planned to travel to Bhutan in April. But of course we had to cancel this trip. We postponed it to the same time in 2021. As to the flight (we were meant to fly via Bangkok with Swiss), we changed it to end of December. At the time, we thought that it might be possible to do a Thailand journey. We have never been to this country and considered it as a viable option to get to know it.

Towards the end of April – in the middle of the lockdown – we got more and more itchy feet. We knew that we had to secure at least one vacation in the foreseeable future that might actually become true. The decision fell on the most southern area of Switzerland, the canton of Ticino. This is one of the few spots in my home country with some sort of a Mediterranean feel. We made use of a seven for five nights package in a hotel in Ascona

where we already stayed in 2018, and this for early September.

2. After the lockdown

When the lockdown in my home country was over, my husband and I thought about where to go for summer vacations before the upcoming Ticino trip in late summer. We had not taken any other bookings yet as there was a big journey to West Australia scheduled for fall. We decided on further local vacations as we wanted to support the domestic travel industry.

After a one-nighter in the Zurich Lake area

end of May – our son has recently started living here – we spent three days in Bad Ragaz

in the eastern pre Alps the following month. We had a fabulous stay at the hotel of the year 2020, awarded by the Gault Millau guide. And we had a fantastic dinner at its two Michelin star restaurant Memories by Sven Wassmer.

Still in the same month, we had another one-nighter, this time in the Lake Constance area,

in the eastern part of Switzerland. And it was combined with another two Michelin star experience.  Actually, this was good luck as it had “only” one star at the time of booking.

In July, my husband and I headed to the Alps, and this to the Lower Engadine

in the country’s east. Here we had a four-day stay at Switzerland’s smallest five-star hotel. My husband and I enjoyed it here. We were outdoors a lot and hiked the area.

Before our scheduled September vacation in Switzerland’s south we had one more short stay. This time in Geneva,

the most known city in the French part of the country. Being in the area, we checked one thing off our travel bucket list, a hike in the Lavaux

wine region. Here is my post about it.

3. Latest vacation 

And here it came, our latest and so far longest trip in the Corona summer of 2020, the seven-day stay in Ascona. My husband and I had made sure that we had four free days left before it started. This in order to go to a place with favorable weather on a short notice.

Lucky us, my sister in law and her husband asked us to accompany them to an event of their car brand, a dinner with Heiko Nieder,

the two star Michelin chef at the Dolder Hotel in Zurich. This took place in Saint Moritz

in the Upper Engadine – remember, we already were in the Lower Engadine. And as they stayed at St. Moritz’s fanciest hotel, the Badrutt’s Palace,

we did too.

While we first wanted to spend all the four days left in the Upper Engadine, we spontaneously decided against it. Caught by wanderlust, we shortened our Saint Moritz stay and squeezed in two nights in Venice

before going to southern Switzerland. We have never been to this city of water so far. We had somehow missed to go there before its overtouristed times. Later on, we refrained from visiting it, turned off by the crowds. And now we thought it was perfect for exploring it, devoid of the masses and with not too many Corona cases.

And it was a great thing to do! More details to be found in my next blogpost. As an added plus, we only had four and half hours to drive by car to reach it from Saint Moritz and three and half hours to get to Ascona, where we were due afterwards for a week in the Ticino.

What is next?

Of course, we had to cancel our mentioned trips to West Australia

(with Singapore Airlines, they paid back the flight without hesitation) and to Thailand (Swiss “only” issued a voucher). We still have two more weeks of vacation to spend in 2020. In these uncertain times, we would rather not book ahead. My husband and I intend to act spontaneously once they come within reach.

After spending so many vacations close to home, we feel the urgent need to go further. Venice was a good start, but we definitely want more. We sense the lure of international experiences instead of looking again to our own backyards.

Chances are that this vacation will lead us no further than Europe. It does not seem likely that we will be able to travel to far-flung locations at the moment. This unsatisfactory situation makes so many people unhappy, which brings up the question: Why is this so?

The importance of travel

We are a migratory species, we are not meant to stay put for the whole life! People need a safe heaven (home), yet there is an urge to escape from it: to see new places, to learn other things, to make different experiences. It is a human need to reach out beyond the known to see what is further away. It is our nature to explore, to go to unfamiliar places and to unfold their magic.

Once accomplished, we return home, with our “trophies”, whatever they might be. Yet one thing is for sure, we have gained “a new way of looking at things” as how it Henry Miller, the writer, expressed.

What travel enthusiasts miss right now is the chance to move as freely as they want. They are forced to be sedentary and not be able to experience the big, beautiful world out there. Of course local travel is possible. But as much as I find my home country beautiful, I do know it too well. I miss the unpredictable, the adventure, the exotic.

Soon on my blog

It will not be long until the one-year anniversary of my last big journey, a three-week trip to Japan.

So far, I only published a post outlining the itinerary. I did this at the beginning of February, just before the world found itself plunged into the Corona crisis. I held back with the publication of the remaining five blogposts about Japan (topics: hotel to stay in style, find and reserve gourmet restaurants, fine dining restaurants, ryokan experience, 2 off the beaten path destinations). It did not feel right to me to report from places where you cannot travel to for the time being. Although the situation is unchanged, I do not want to wait much longer. Going to Japan will be a possibility again. And it may do you good to dream of future trips to the Land of the Rising Sun. Therefore, find information how to stay and dine in style in Japan

soon on my blog!

Before doing so, there will be two posts about my recent Venice

stay, as announced. The first will be about its overtourism and staying in Corona times, the second about where to stay and dine in style in this City of Canals. Then I also have plans to make some cornerstone content about Switzerland (a guide to visiting Switzerland as well as where to go here for luxury and gourmet travel – hotels: part one and two | restaurants: part one and two). Furthermore, there are reviews for quite a few Swiss restaurants in the pipeline, still to be written. But these will have to wait until later.

For now, I put on a brave face and enjoy my existence as a member of a “staycation nation”, born out of necessity. Not only I but many of us have taken travel as granted. Once this has passed, I am sure that we all will travel with more gratitude than ever before!

The post Travel during the Corona year of 2020 & thoughts about wanderlust first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post My travel activity in the Corona year of 2020 & thoughts about wanderlust appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

General

or shortly afterwards when it illuminates its very top,

be it on a slightly cloudy day

or on an almost cloudless day,

it is always a feast for the eyes!

Zermatt’s ski hut scene in overview

1. Les Marmottes (Furi area)

and found it skillfully done. After this, we could not do otherwise but also have a sweat treat, a homemade apple tart with crumbles,

delicious! Service is amiable and fast, the portions are generous. As usual in Zermatt, where you have to dig quite deep into your pockets to have lunch in style, it is fairly pricey but worth the price tag. We will return to Les Marmottes when coming back to Zermatt!

2. Chalet Etoile (Cervinia area)

and are welcomed by friendly and efficient staff. Italian cuisine is on offer here with a large selection of antipasti (starters), fish dishes, primi piatti (pasta and risotto) and secondi piatti (meat). My husband and I settled for a chef’s recommendation called Missing Bali, Nasi Goreng and chicken sate,

which was impeccably prepared and presented, and served in no time. We also shared a tiramisu,

which was exquisite however a bit too sweet for my taste. Pricewise, the costs are lower than in Switzerland, however not exactly inexpensive.

3. Foyer des Guides (Valtournenche area)

Apart from the interior restaurant there are two terraces, a lower one, which is bigger and quite busy,

and an upper one with fewer tables and more quietude where we were seated. The couple running the place comes from families of guides and they want this restaurant to be a meeting point for guides, yet other guests are welcome of course, too.

As at Chalet Etoile, Italian cuisine is available here, and also divided into the sections of antipasti (starters), primi piatti (pasta and risotto) and secondi piatti (meat and fish). This time, my husband and I chose homemade pasta, Ravioli alla Foyer, stuffed with beef, Swiss chard and salvia, accompanied by a roast meat gravy, an excellent dish!

A small dessert – a tea gourmand, tea with delicious homemade cookies and chocolates –

completed the meal just ideally.

Overall

The food in Italy is a serious rival to that on the Swiss side, but the price is friendlier. 

Pin it for later

The post Where to eat in style on the slopes in Zermatt, Switzerland, v.2.0 appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Zermatt, in the western Swiss Alps, is not only one of the world’s best and biggest ski resorts, but also a haven for skiers looking for gourmet delights on the slopes. It has most probably the highest concentration of foodie’s mountain restaurants in Switzerland if not in the Alps! And from almost all the places you have a fantastic view of Zermatt’s iconic Matterhorn, the majestic mountain towering above the town.

After having spent a week skiing here last year and trying out as many places for foodies on the slopes as possible I recently returned to this Alpine town for another seven days on the same mission.

General

My first blogpost about Zermatt included a general overview of the skiing opportunities, details about a fabulous stay at one of the few ski-in, ski-out hotels onsite (Riffelalp Resort 2222m, highest luxury hotel in Europe) and a map covering a number of high-standard mountain huts alongside my judgement of four of them.

 

This time I want to focus on places for foodies on the slopes. While I stayed at the same hotel and enjoyed my time here once again, I tried out more mountain restaurants and revisited others for the second time. As a result, I am now able to give insights on eight of them, all of them high quality establishments (no self service, no “ordinary” fare).

Zermatt’s mountain restaurant scene in overview

Before going into individual places, you find my updated map with recommended mountain restaurants to go in Zermatt. It is based, amongst others, on information from a friend who is a connoisseur of the local food scene on the slopes. Please note that I have not visited yet all of them (it is stated in the description whether I have visited the restaurant in question or not).

 

 

8 lunch spots on the slopes in detail

One point to start with, it is advisable to book ahead at all these restaurants. When I stayed in Zermatt in low season (end of January), it was sufficient to make reservations in the morning of the same day. This is the perfect point of time to make such arrangements as you normally only know at this moment where you are going to ski at the day in question depending on weather forecasts and up-to-date information on lifts and cable cars operating.

I will start with two mountain huts that I wanted to revisit because I was so much in favor of them last year, mountain restaurant Simi in the Furi area, and Chez Vroni in the Findeln area.

1. Simi (Furi area)

I really wanted to have lunch here again as we had such a wonderful time at this restaurant on our last visit a year ago. It is not your typical lunch spot on the slopes as it is not directly located next to the ski slope but a few steps away on a foot path near the Furi station. As a consequence of this setting, there are not many skiers having lunch here, which makes it a relaxed and quiet place – I hate to admit it, but the atmosphere in a typical ski hut is quite hectic and noisy.

The place is run by two restaurateurs, Stefan Leitner and Sebastien di Stefano, who warmly welcome and care for their guests. It is a rustic styled restaurant, but you do not feel cramped in here, there is enough space to make you comfortable.

While there is a wide choice of dishes available on the regular menu – from typical Swiss mountain fare as roesti (shredded roasted potatoes), cheese toast, sausage or cheese fondue to more refined meat dishes as calf’s liver or lamb chops –, our party of six (two families with an adult child each) ordered mainly from the daily specials, which often are tuna and gnocchi (some kind of dumplings).

While I went for the former (pistachio crumbled with salad),

my husband opted for pesto gnocchi with shrimps,

and we very much liked what we got! The tuna was the tastiest and most tender one I have had in a long time and the gnocchi were sublime, too. Prices here are not exactly inexpensive – eating out in Zermatt usually comes with a hefty price tag –, but competitive compared to other restaurants in the area and given the quality here.

 

2. Chez Vroni (Findeln area)

When I had lunch here the year before, I was impressed by the stylish contemporary Alpine décor (designed by the owner’s brother, Heinz Julen),

the professional and friendly service and of course the excellent cuisine! And also this year, Chez Vroni could convince our group of six.

The restaurant is in the Findeln area right on the slopes and is by no doubt the hippest place in the Zermatt’ mountains! I was amazed to see how the original small farmhouse could have turned into a modern high-end gastronomy business! Not only the guest area but also the kitchen, of which I could catch a glimpse, are state-of-the-art. The eatery was awarded 14 Points Gault Millau and is Michelin listed.

 

Everything here is perfectly organized. There is plenty of young, pretty and nice staff. When our group arrived at 12 o’clock it was not yet busy, and food arrived within fifteen minutes after ordering. Speaking of which, the menu is varied, from assorted cold cuts and cheese to exciting salads/soups as well as fancy pasta, meat and fish dishes. Prices seem OK for Zermatt standards – this Alpine town is not a place to expect moderately priced food.

 

My husband and I chose an item from the classics section, meat loaf with an exquisite mustard thyme sauce, accompanied by polenta, everything locally sourced.

Our son had tarte flambée, topped with truffle, locally dried bacon, onions and herbs.

In addition, he treated himself to a dessert, home-made apple fritters with vanilla sauce,

and was raving about it!

From the start to the end, a successful meal! Vrony Cotting-Julen, the owner, even came to the table after the main course and inquired whether we had enough or cared for a second helping! It is beyond question that we will return to Chez Vrony on our next visit to Zermatt.

3. Al Bosco (Furi area)

Another quality restaurant on the slopes is Ristorante Al Bosco in the Furi area, part of the Riffelalp Resort 2222m, the hotel, we had chosen for our Zermatt stay, and under the lead of Luigi Lafranco. While I have to admit that we never had lunch here as we were always on the move, it seems to be a popular lunch stop. However, we had dinner at the resort’s second restaurant (the main one is Restaurant Alexandre) this and the year before.

It features an Alpine theme decor as most other mountain restaurants in Zermatt, although it is more spacious than the typical one with high ceilings and big windows.

Service is amiable and helpful, prices are on a par with the usual level here (aka expensive). The menu offerings deviate a bit from the traditional roesti/fondue etc. norm, you get here mainly Italian fare just as salads, soups, pasta, risotto,

meat, fish and of course Italian desserts.

The place was awarded 13 Points Gault Millau.

 

4. Paradies (Findeln area)

UPDATE: out of business in 2020 (new concept by Chez Vroni under new name @Paradise since June 2021)

This restaurant in the Findeln area – awarded 14 Points Gault Millau, one point more than last year – was already on my last year’s list to go, but unfortunately we had not managed to eat here as the weather had been a bit difficult at the time to put it mildly. Be it as it may, Paradies was in any case the first place we had lunch during this year’s vacation to avoid being missed again!

The eatery is small but nice,

decorated in a traditional way but without being cramped or dark. Our party of seven (our son’s girlfriend joined us) was warmly welcomed and we were whisked away to two tables for four, lying next to each other by the window.

When the question arises what to eat here, then there is only one answer, at least if you are a pasta lover, the homemade daily ravioli!

On our inquiry we were told that the ravioli of the day were filled with fondue cheese. Almost all of us went for them and were thrilled by the choice. The filling was extremely tasty, the pasta dough very thin and the accompanying cream sauce was perfect, rich enough but not too much so, we relished it! Also other dishes on the menu were convincing, for example tagliatelle “Mare” with salmon, local saffron, zucchini and cherry tomatoes.

When it comes to the costs of the meal – no surprise, it is Zermatt – it does not come inexpensive, but it is OK for local standards!

No question, we will be back to have more of this great homemade pasta! Gaston Zeiter, the chef here, is truly a “ravioli king”.

5. Zum See (Furi area)

We had lunch here also for the first time after being guests at a birthday party here some years ago in summertime. At the time we were lucky enough to enjoy a furious dinner at this restaurant awarded 14 Points Gault Millau and Michelin listed.

The restaurant is about three quarters of the way down the mountain just below the Furi gondola right on the slopes. It is located amidst of a lovely hamlet with beautiful old buildings, I really love this setting!

The best thing here is to sit outside as there are many great spots on the premises to have lunch. When we had lunch here, this was out of the question for us as it was too cold. So we went inside. It is a very cozy place, nicely furnished in a traditional way but it is also dark and cramped. Our party of seven only just managed to get all of us round the table!

The food offer here is similar to others in the area, cold cuts, soups, salads, roesti/cheese dishes, pasta, dishes from land and sea. My husband and I opted for a roesti dish, a “Sunday”-version with smoked salmon and crème fraiche.

It was solid yet not exceptional. My son who had pasta felt the same about his dish. In contrast, we absolutely loved the dessert, a vanilla slice, a house specialty.

It is easily the best one I have ever tasted!

Staff was nice enough, the price level as usual in Zermatt (rather high). I think we have to come back to give the restaurant a second chance to convince us of its true qualities. We have several friends who are constantly raving about this place and it might be possible that we caught them on a bad day.

6. Adler Hitta (Findeln area)

This is the third restaurant in the Findeln area – apart from Chez Vroni and Paradies – that I recommend going to if you are into quality food, and I was a first-timer here when visiting it end of January. Compared with its neighboring competitors, this mountain hut with its big terrace

is maybe a tad less glamorous and the food a bit less sophisticated.

Its interior is practically furnished and lacks the charm of other establishments I mention here in my overview. It is your typical restaurant on the slopes with square functional tables packed quite closely together.

As to the menu and to the pricing, they are comparable to other mountain restaurants in Zermatt, albeit the choice is somewhat wider, the offer of meat dishes is not that varied and the one of proper fish dishes is practically non-existent.

There is one thing that makes this eatery special, and this is its house specialty, delicious roast poussin from the outdoor grill.

It is served with fried potatoes and tzatziki sauce and is a mouthwatering delicacy,

I was impressed by its great taste! As I was told, also other dishes excelled just as tagliatelle with chicken strips in green curry sauce or the chestnut cake with plum compote!

Staff here was kind and accommodative, service was quick and smooth, with one exception … The dessert – only one of us ordered one – took quite long to arrive, despite our reminders. Overall, a restaurant on the slopes that makes you wish for more!

7. Cervo Puro (Sunnegga area)

UPDATE: concept change since winter 2020

Another first-time experience was my visit to Cervo Puro, the signature restaurant of the luxury hotel Cervo, another ski-in, ski-out lodging – an alternative to “our” hotel, Riffelalp Resort 2222m, that we had also considered for our stay in Zermatt.

The resort is located at end of the Sunnegga slope and is very popular for its après ski bar.

Restaurant Puro – there is also another eatery called Ferdinand serving cheese and barbecue dishes – offers a mix of Alpine and Italian food with a modern twist, awarded 14 Points Gault Millau and Michelin listed. The décor is also a mélange, on the one hand rustic with lots of wood and antlers on the wall, on the other hand modern with an unusual arrangement of lamps.

The lunch menu is quite varied, from salads/soups to pasta/risotto, cold cuts/cheese, fish/meat and Cervo classics (burger, beef tartar, fries, cheese nuggets). Our party of six sampled quite a number of dishes, be it pumpkin risotto,

meatloaf with truffle jus on potato-celery puree

or cheese toast and considered them for good. When it came to desserts, one was fine (chocolate cake),

the other was underwhelming (fruit tart – heated and as a consequence soaked and the crumble melted) and should have been returned …

Staff was friendly but seemed a bit stressed when the place filled up. As to prices, it has to be said that it is very expensive for what it is, even for Zermatt. The burger, for example, comes with a hefty price tag, 42 SFR! In conclusion, we generally liked what we got but I am not sure whether I will return.

8. Findlerhof (Findeln area)

And last but not least to the fourth restaurant in the Findeln area, the one from Franz & Heidi, the amiable hosts. Although I did not make it to them this year, I have fond memories of my last year’s visit to this jewel of a mountain hut a bit away from the slopes – you have to take off your skis and walk down the hill through a cluster of houses.

Once inside the traditional building – it is a bit cramped and dark –, you feel at ease in the cozy interiors.

On offer here is a mix of traditional Swiss cuisine and Italian food with a twist, think of cheese and cold cuts, pasta, meat dishes and specialties like goose liver terrine, sashimi or beef tartare. And as always in such Zermatt’s restaurants – Findlerhof is awarded 14 Points Gault Millau and Michelin listed – it is pricey but aligned with the quality provided.

In terms of food, I wanted to try out a traditional dish that a friend of mine had recommended, Matterkuchen, a quiche with bacon, leek, onion, cheese accompanied by salad.

And it was great, however more like a soufflé in a pastry. My son chose another of my friend’s favorite, Pasta mista “Trio”, three kind of pasta, that can be combined with scampi, what he did and was very much in favor of it!

I am sure that Findlerhof will be on my list to go in any case when returning to Zermatt!

Overall

Apart from being one of world’s best and biggest ski resorts, Zermatt has a USP (a unique selling proposition for those who are not familiar with this marketing expression), and this is about its places for foodies on the slopes. There is most probably no other ski resort in Europe that has such an abundance of really good quality mountain huts. That said, they may look like typical restaurants on the slopes, but they are in fact gourmet havens. They are pricey as well but (mostly) totally worth it.

All the eateries mentioned here are safe bets when it comes to the quality of food. Some places might be more rustic (aka cramped) than others or more expensive but they are all quality establishments. As often, it is also a question of taste which one suits you more or less. My favorites are – at least from today’s perspective – Simi and Chez Vroni, but this might change.

Come to think about it, I have just read an article about Stafelalp, another ski hut in Zermatt, which sounds promising. Has anyone been there lately and cares about commenting it? Are there any other recommended restaurants on the slopes in Zermatt to have lunch in style that I have to try out?

Date of visit: February 2019

 

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General

Top restaurants

Glow by Armin Amrein (see my detailed review here)

UPDATE: out of business in 2021

has been serving gourmet meals at top level since its opening in winter season 2015/16. It was awarded a Michelin Star and 17 Points Gault Millau. On my three visits to Armin Amrein’s place he always impressed me with his sophisticated and inventive creations.

You can either order four to seven courses from a menu that changes every three weeks

or choose from a small list with classics (typical Armin Amrein’s dishes), my favorite here is fried duck liver on caramelized apple.

You can also use the latter to exchange one or more menu dishes. Although I am a fan of Glow’s elaborate cuisine, I am not always happy with the servers here, as I have encountered several (minor) service issues. But if you want to exuperience the best possible haute dining in Davos, then there is no way around Armin Armrein.

Gourmet Stuebli at Hotel Seehof (see my detailed review, under Bieri, here)

UPDATE: concept change since new ownership Hotel Seehof as from June 2020

two years ago, I had a fantastic meal under the direction of Martin Bieri, but he is no longer in charge. The new head chef at Gourmet Stuebli is Thorsten Bode, who is a well-known chef in the area and proficient in is field.

A short time ago, the restaurant was awarded 15 Points Gault Millau. On offer here is a menu from which you can choose four to six courses or an a la carte menu, which is quite classic French-accented.

I thoroughly loved the experience on my recent dinner here although I considered the cuisine as slightly less modern than under the aegis of Martin Bieri.

Restaurant Poestli at Morosani Posthotel

Notwithstanding that, the chef – Peter Mueller – perfected the art of fine dining here. His specialty is the combination of food from land and sea,

and he does this in a harmonic way. This season, a new menu concept was introduced. All the items of each category (starters, mains and desserts) cost exactly the same. There is the choice of either one, two or three courses from the menu.

In addition, there is a menu with classic/signature dishes.

My dinner of last year was a success and the same is true for my recent one here. While I am in favor of Peter Mueller’s creative cuisine, the service at Restaurant Poestli is not of the highest level. Staff is kind and helpful but not always attentive and efficient. Having said that, you feel comfortable here and I will return!

Apart from these flagship restaurants, there is also a selection of eateries featuring an innovative approach.

Innovative restaurants with contemporary fare

Arthaus Restaurant (see my detailed review here)

innovative, Asian inspired food is available.

There is a choice of three menus (four to six courses). The place has an intimate feel with only a handful of tables.

Spina

Classic restaurants with modern touches

Gasthaus Islen (see my detailed review here) 

UPDATE: new management since September 2021

Once again I enjoyed the food offerings here consisting of traditional food with a modern touch every now and then.

The setting is rustic, a lovely old Davos house with several small rooms.

Haenggi’s (see my detailed review here) 

UPDATE: change of management in November 2020 (new under the name of Braema)

After a somewhat mixed experience last year (my husband’s first tuna was not cooked to perfection and the second one – quickly replaced by the owner – was not tender enough), my husband and I went for regional specialties on our recent visit and were happy with them. The selection at this large restaurant – which is not really a feast for the eyes –

is huge, from fish (No more tuna available, maybe due to the fact that there is a new head chef?), pasta, meat to pizza!

Giodavin

Restaurant zum Bergfuehrer

This eatery appears for the first time on my overview where to eat as a food lover in Davos, although being in business for quite a few years. The remotely located mountain restaurant serves Swiss and one or two European classics as well as some local favorites, with a twist here and there. Having heard good things about this place, our party of four had high expectations. While we found the Swiss chalet ambiance appealing,

not all of us were satisfied with the quality of the food (overfried Cordon Bleu, non-descript fish dish). In addition, we encountered some (minor) service issues. All in all, we cannot join (yet) in the general praise uttered by acquaintances or on TripAdvisor. Maybe we just caught “The Bergfuehrer” on a bad night. I think that another visit is required before giving a final judgement …

Before coming to mountain hats on the slopes, here my comments on the cafes in Davos.

Cafes

KaffeeKlatsch

This cafe is a success story! Since I published my overview, the people behind KaffeeKlatsch – Svea Meyer and Orlando Ceiro – have been growing their business. There are now two branches in Davos, two in the nearby town of Klosters,

one in Rapperswil (upper end of Lake Zurich) and it seems there will be also one in Chur (capital of the canton of Grisons)! This café is THE place for having the best coffee in town, breakfast, a light lunch or small bites,

and this in a contemporary, laid-back atmosphere.

My overview will find end with looking into restaurants on the slopes. Unfortunately, I did not a lot of skiing in Davos the last two years, thus the news here are not breaking …

Restaurant on the slopes (Jakobshorn, Rinerhorn & Parsenn area)

Naturfreundehaus (Jakobshorn) 

UPDATE: new management

This restaurant (called nature lovers’ hostal in English) is a real oasis in the busy alpine ski resort!

This is the place to slow down when skiing here – you can also walk up to it from the town of Davos – amidst fir trees and with one of the most beautiful sun terraces in the area. The management has changed recently but from what our friends told me it is still a place to go when looking for well-made, mainly regional food.

Fuxaegufer (Jakobshorn)

This mountain restaurant, located halfway up the hill, has a rustic charm and a cozy interior. Local staples and – my personal highlight – Asian food, solidly cooked and quickly served,

is on offer. While I visited it last year, I did not have the chance to eat here this year, but my husband did and liked what he got!

Spina (Rinerhorn)

Last date of stay: December 2018

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The post Where to eat in Davos in the Swiss Alps as a food lover (v.2.0) first appeared on Swiss Traveler

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The annual ski vacation has been an important marker in my family as long as I can think of. When I was a child, we used to go into the mountains to spend a week skiing every year. This tradition was continued after being married and having a family of my own. Whereas in earlier days we always chose a Swiss ski resort for this purpose, we headed to the Austrian Alps instead the last decade or so because of some not so good experiences made in Switzerland. This year, we decided to give the Swiss Alps a try after all. After spending ten years in the same mountain hotel in Austria – see here my reports on it – we needed a change. And it turned out to be a good decision!

Ski resort

Riffelalp Resort 2222 m

Location

Facilities

Many rooms have balconies and offer dramatic views of the Matterhorn. The bathrooms are gorgeous, featuring walls and ceilings made of a light-grey stone, a great walk-in shower and a large bathtub.

Food

an elegant restaurant with international cuisine; I especially liked their delicious pasta dishes and the outstanding Friday dessert buffet!

Alternatively, you can have dinner at Al Bosco right across the hotel in a separate building where you can choose from a small yet well-composed menu.

In case you want to try typical Swiss specialties like fondue and raclette, you can do this at the Walliserkeller.

Staff

In terms of service, I was impressed by the high level of hospitality experienced at the Riffelalp. The manager, Hans-Joerg Walther, takes his time to chat with his guests every now and then, but the other staff also scores well. Throughout our stay, we very much appreciated the gracious attitude from everyone with whom we interacted!

 

Gourmet’s delight on the slopes

If you are a skier and a gourmet and want to combine both, then I cannot imagine a better place to enjoy both things than Zermatt! A friend of mine who is a proven connoisseur of the local mountain restaurant scene informed me of recommended places to go. Here you can find a map with all her tips.



Unfortunately, I only could try out four of them as we were in Zermatt when it was snowed in

meaning that skiing opportunities were limited at certain times. Nevertheless, I enjoyed my visits to following mountain restaurants very much and I will save the other ones for a next visit! Book ahead as the popular spots fill up quickly.

 

Chez Vroni

This nicely furnished and perfectly organized mountain restaurant made a lasting impression on me. Not only was the food very good and inventive, but I found here hospitality at its best. Do not miss the opportunity to have lunch at this hip place.

Findlerhof

This cozily decorated mountain hut is located near Chez Vroni and also features an exquisite cuisine and gracious staff. You cannot ski directly to the restaurant, but you have to walk a bit through a tiny Alpine village, which is a nice thing to do!

Ristorante al Bosco

This restaurant is part of the Riffelalp Hotel and offers well-made Italian food in a pleasant atmosphere. Staff is knowledgeable and accommodative likewise.

Simi

This restaurant is not directly located on the slopes, but can still be reached on skis (just take the foot path for some meters). It is a place with rustic charme where you can enjoy good food from a varied menu in a casual setting. Service is warm and attentive.

Overall

Zermatt’s is a ski resort that is hardly to beat in terms of skiing opportunities. It is one of the world’s biggest ski areas with the added bonuses of Matterhorn gazing, gourmet mountain restaurants, an eventful Alpine history, a good snow quality and an Italian-Swiss mash-up (linked Swiss-Italian ski areas).

I would return in a heartbeat and I would once again choose the splendid Riffelalp Hotel, one of the best places to stay in Zermatt and also the highest five-star hotel in Europe.

Date of stay: January 2018

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