Finally we come to the last part of a North and Central France trip done in late summer 2024. This is the France west-east crossing from the Brittany – which was the actual focus and part two – back to Switzerland where my husband and I live. We did so by taking the route via Cognac, the Dordogne and the Cantal. As to part one, that was about our way from home to Brittany, which led over the Champagne and the Normandy, and where I gave an outline of the whole journey. My reporting includes the itinerary with some of the most important things to do everywhere we went plus the one or other walking suggestion. Furthermore, I let you know where to head for best (luxury) hotels and (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants, here in this post it is about Cognac, the Dordogne and the Cantal.

Before I come to these three places, find in the following again my Google Map with our North and Central France itinerary plus all our (luxury) hotels and the (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants en route:

From place to place in North and Central France, part III, Cognac, Dordogne & Cantal

1. Cognac north of Bordeaux

About Cognac

The town of Cognac in the Charente Departement is about two hours by car north of Bordeaux. It is famous for one of the world’s best-known type of brandy. To label a spirit Cognac, it must be from a certain area and strictly made according to regulations (double-distilled). A bit like in the Champagne, you can visit the “Grande Marque” Cognac houses to view the process and to taste it.

Otherwise, in my view Cognac does not have much to offer in kind of attractions. The location on the Charente river is nice but that is it.

I found the town and even its historic center not that special. Yet it makes a great stopover for luxury traveler as you can find here two of the best luxury hotels in the area, Hotel Chais Monnet & Spa and Hotel La Nauve. While the former is in town, the latter is in Cognac’s surroundings.

Our hotel: La Nauve Cognac

My husband and I opted for the newer one of the mentioned luxury hotels, La Nauve, opened in summer 2023. And that was a great decision! It is idyllically located in a former Cognac distillery and mansion a few minutes by car from Cognac. What a beauty La Nauve is!

It is wonderfully restored with the finest materials.

Though, I considered it as impractical in many aspects, especially as far our room was concerned (Prestige Room, 33-38 sqm, No. 10, 696€ per night with breakfast, out of 12 in total). Without going in details, it was adorable from its looks, and there was a huge outdoor area too.

The breakfast was fantastic, served in the library (on inadequate chairs for the occasion).

Staff was faultless, and there are two great restaurants onsite (see below). You find here also a large garden, a bar and an outdoor pool.

Our restaurants: both at Hotel La Nauve in Cognac

We did not venture out of the hotel as I thought that both in-house dining spots made a good impression. And I was right so, both belong to the best restaurants you can find in Cognac! First I come to the casual bistro and then to the elegant gourmet dining spot, both led by chef Anthony Carballo. And pastry chef (Simon Souchaud) is a genius, I adored his varying brioches!

a) Brasserie des Flâneurs Cognac

This was one of the few restaurants on our journey through France that was not Michelin listed (although it would have deserved the award). It is situated in an annexe – that used to be the estate’s distillery – and has a modern, casual vibe.

Staff was unobtrusive but friendly. And the place seems to draw quite a number of locals. They serve modern international food, expertly prepared. Prices are at a medium level (starters from 16 to 19€, mains from 25 to 30€ and desserts around 10€).

b) Notes, gourmet restaurant, Cognac

The Michelin listed Notes is quite different from the above eatery. It is a refined dining establishment in an intimate part of the main manor.

You can make your choice between two tasting menus, one with four and the other with seven courses. I found them adequately priced, fitting the upscale setting at La Nauve (on our evening 80 and 120€). The ambiance is sophisticated and the staff, especially the head server, was top notch on our dinner. And the food – modern French cuisine – was sublime, in my view even worthy a Michelin star.

2. The Dordogne aka the Périgord

About the Dordogne/Périgord

The Dordogne department ist often called by its old name, the Périgord. The former is clearly a territorial designation (the river Dordogne). The Périgord is a historical name, it dates back to Roman times and represented the old province at the time. Yet both stand for a lovely landscape full of medieval castles, prehistoric caves and fortified villages.

The main town is Périgueux, boasting a charming old town with 2,000 years of history.

Then there are lots of villages that are part of the Les plus Beaux Villages de France (the most beautiful villages in France). Quite a few are around Sarlat, in the Black Périgord, the most popular part for visitors. I name here La Roque Gageac,

Beynac et Cazenac, Castelnaud la Chapelle or Dome. Plus, you find in the Dordogne also Jardins Remarquables (remarkable gardens), one of the more popular is Jardin du Manor d’Eyrignac.

While everything is very nice to look at, it is also quite busy (many large groups of bus tourists). To avoid the crowds, we did a nice walk/hike from La Roque Gageac to the Castelnaud La Chapelle Castle along the Dordogne, here is the link to the track on Outdooractive.

Our hotel: Domaine de Rochebois in Vitrac

Upfront I have to mention that we found it hard to select an accommodation to stay in style in the Dordogne. In search of best hotels here, you are somewhat lost. Really good luxury lodging is a rarity in this area. And our choice after much consideration turned out to be suboptimal. While Domaine de Rochebois is a beautiful property, it feels somewhat neglected.

From what I read, the hotel experienced quite some changes (opened in 1993, reopened in 2022 after a closure of 10 years, sold in 2024). On our stay, the restaurant and the golf course were closed. The room we had (Junior Suite Prestige, No. 212, 50 sqm, 514€ per night with breakfast, 40 rooms in total) had been updated not so long ago but already felt a bit dated. The same was true for the outdoor area (mossy cushions).

Staff was friendly, and the breakfast was okay. Onsite, you also find an outdoor pool and a spa. There is a bar too, yet it felt dreary.

Our restaurants: Ô Moulin in Carsac-Aillac & O’Plaisir des Sens in La Roque Gageac

If you are looking for best restaurants in the Dordogne, specifically in the so called Black Périgord, there is no way around the following two establishments.

a) Ô Moulin in Carsac-Aillac

We were much in favor of this small restaurant with a Michelin Bib Gourmand, opened in 2018. It is idyllically located in a former water-powered sawmill. The attentive lady of the house – Cécile Guérin – welcomed us and ushered us in the contemporary, casual dining room.

Her partner, Nicolas Aujoux, celebrates a modern French cuisine and occasionally also served plates on our dinner. You can choose among there tasting menus (3/3/6 courses 42/57/82€) and also dine à la carte, what we did. We had a fabulous duo of duck liver and turbot fillet, also the desserts were persuasive.

And the host even exchanged a few sentences with us, which was nice.

b) O’Plaisir des Sens in La Roque Gageac

At O’Plaisir des Sens, Bruno (chef) and Lydia Marien (host) have been at work here since 2015. The chef’s cooking expertise is evident, the restaurant is Michelin listed. His cuisine is classic, although with a modern twist. As far as the dining spot’s appearance is concerned, it is somewhat eclectic.

And the service on our dinner was down to earth, at times not quite seamless, e.g. when the host served cheese from the trolley. Plus, the business is a family affair, on our visit a daughter helped out in the service. Food wise, you have several options. Either you can choose one of three tasting menus (3/4/4 courses at 48/69/85€) or dine à la carte. We had the “the golden middle-menu”, which was fine, although a bit awkwardly composed (white beans with bacon, a delicious duck liver, sweetbread and a peach dessert).

3. Cantal, Auvergne/Aubrac Plateau

About Cantal, Auvergne/Aubrac Plateau

The Cantal mountain range respectively the Aubrac plateau are not necessarily places you know as foreign travelers. My husband and I ended up here because we had been looking for a stopover on our way from the Dordogne back to Switzerland. And imagine, we enjoyed here not only the culinary highlight, but also one of the best hotels stays of the whole trip. But more to how to travel in style further below.

If you are wondering where exactly we were, it was the town of Chaudes-Aigues.

It is located in the Massif Central in the heart of France, between the Cantal mountain range and the Aubrac plateau. The area is sparsely populated and geographically isolated. Much of Cantal is about pasture for the cattle – among other the old breed of Aubrac – and sheep. And this is because the climate is usually too cold and damp for grain. And we well noticed this on a walk we did in the area (link to the track on Outdooractive).

Regarding Chaudes-Aigues, it is a spa resort with more than 30 hot springs across the town. And the most famous is the Par Spring, which is the warmest natural one in whole Europe! As to natural beauties in the surroundings, there are the Aubrac Regional Nature Park, the Laussac Peninsula or the Truyère Gorges. A town you might have heard of is Laguiole where you find many companies that manufacture the famous Laguiole knives. In addition, it is a pretty village too.

Our hotel/restaurant in Cantal: Serge Vieira

My husband and I came to the Cantal region not because of the hot springs or the natural beauties, but because of the two-star Michelin Restaurant Serge Vieira. On our “mission” of finding the best restaurants everywhere we go, we stranded in this remote place. And fortunately, this highly decorated dining spot comes with accommodation options too. You can either stay at three rooms at the Couffour Castle (Restaurant Serge Vieira)

or at 18 rooms at their second place, Hotel Sodade, down in Chaudes-Aigues. Here in town, you also find Restaurant Sodade with a Michelin Bib Gourmand. I think that these establishments belong to the best what you can find in terms of upscale hotels and restaurants in the near and further area.

a) Stay at Serge Vieira at Couffour Castle

As I mentioned above, we experienced not only culinary delights at Serge Vieira but also a great hotel stay. Out of the three rooms available at Couffour Castle we opted for the “Yellow Room” (about 30 sqm, 415€ with continental breakfast). Yet I think all three have the same layout. We liked what we encountered, a modern and generously sized accommodation with an outdoor area for viewing the peaceful rural scenery.

What I very much appreciated was that the room came with two financier-pastries on both days of our stay. And the breakfast was out of this world!

Plus, Marie-Aude Vieira is the best host you could wish for.

b) Restaurant Serge Vieira, the best restaurant of our France journey

There is a sad back story behind this establishment. This is because the two-star Michelin chef Serge Vieira died of cancer at the age of 46 in mid 2023. Before he had built up with his wife Marie-Aude a successful restaurant and hotel business (Restaurant Serge Vieira at Couffour Castle from 2009 as well as Hotel and Restaurant Sodade from 2019). After her husband’s death, Marie-Aude Vieira took over. She did this with the help of a long-time friend of the family, Aurélien Gransagne. He runs the kitchen and she the dining room. I must say, we had the most exceptional dinners here – we ate here two evenings in a row (originally, we wanted to have the second one at Restaurant Sodade).

While I cannot judge Serge Vieira’s cuisine, I was delighted by Aurélien Gransagne’s inspired and truly unique dishes. You can choose between two menus: M for Marie-Aude at 235€ (6 courses) and S for Serge at 135€ (4 courses). Among other delicacies we had the most formidable lobster paired with corn or a dessert creation made of figs and almonds.

We enjoyed this in the ultra-modern dining room with picture windows to take in the views.

And this well cared for by the amiable host and her team.

Looking back to road trip in North & Central France in style (part I & II)

Here it was about the last part (three) of a North and Central France trip my husband and I did recently. It regards the itinerary from Cognac over the Dordogne to the Cantal, which was our way home to Switzerland from the Brittany. The start (part one) made the opposite direction, from our home country to our actual main destination. The voyage went first to the Champagne, then to the Normandy. And part two focused on the journey’s centerpiece, the Brittany.

Date of stay: September 2024

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A long held plan came true in late summer 2024, when my husband and I set off on an extended journey through France. Not that we have not travelled our beautiful neighboring country in the recent past, but mostly for a few days only. This time we wanted to do a longer trip to France, and this by car. Its main focus should be the Brittany. As we started from northwestern Switzerland, this meant that we had to build in at least one stopover. And the same is true for the way back. So in the end, a 19-day voyage resulted. Before arriving in the Brittany, we made two stops (Champagne & Normandy). The return way lead via Cognac, the Dordogne and the Cantal/Auvergne. As always when traveling, we kept an eye out for best luxury hotels and (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants worth the money spent on them. Here in this post it is about part one, an outline of the the whole journey and the route to Brittany, leading to the Champagne and Honfleur/Normandy.

Before coming to our 19-day itinerary for North and Central France in style, there is something else. It concerns the sort of content you may expect in this context.

What is next about the North & Central France journey in the time to come?

Actually, I wanted to provide quite a number of blogposts about our extended trip through France’s north and center. And they should follow right after this one outlining our itinerary. I used to to do this on my blog for many voyages in the past. This time, it will be a little bit different. This is because my husband and I already did another longer road trip in the meantime. It went to the Peloponnese and Athens in Greece. So, I want to keep my France travel recount shorter. That means to focus on the essentials such as what to do and where do go for best hotels and restaurants (part one: Champagne & Honfleur). I might pick out one or another topic and dwell on it later. Yet this would be after letting you know about our Greece journey just in the way I do it here for the North and Central France. It makes no sense for me to always fall behind with my trip reporting. And the next voyage is already approaching!

19 days on the road from Switzerland to Brittany and back with several before-and-after stops

It was not the first Brittany trip that my husband and I undertook this late summer. Back in the 90s, we already spent two weeks in the area. So, we decided to leave away most places that we went to at the time. This is true for some of the most visited spots too, Mont-Saint-Michel or Pointe du Raz. Notwithstanding, there are more than enough things to do. Here is my Google Map with our North and Central France itinerary plus all the (luxury) hotels and the Michelin fine-dining restaurants we were:

As mentioned, the journey’s first stop was in the Champagne region where we stayed in Épernay. From here, we continued to Honfleur in Normandy. Next was the first of three stays in Brittany. It took place in Dinard. Perros-Guirec, another town on France’s north coast followed. Then, we moved on to the country’s west coast, to Sainte-Marine/Combrit close to Quimper.

After leaving Brittany, we headed further south to Cognac, where the famous spirit of the same name comes from, a type of brandy made of grapes. The next stop was in the Dordogne (Vitrac), also known under its old name of Périgord. From here, we drove on to the Cantal department, which is located in the heart of France. Here we lodged at Chaudes-Aigues. Originally, we had planned one more stop in the French Jura. Yet we cancelled it at the last moment and directly returned to Switzerland from Cantal, which was quite a stretch to drive.

Now to some information about the individual stops on our North and Central France itinerary. This includes things to do with a couple of walking suggestions. And you learn about where to go for staying and dining in style. As there is quite a lot of material, I need to break my reporting down in three parts. I start in this blogpost with part one, the Champagne and Honfleur/Normandy (best activities, hotels and restaurants). The next one will be about the Brittany and the third part about Cognac, the Dordogne and Cantal.

From place to place in North & Central France, part I, Champagne & Normandy (best activities, hotels & restaurants)

1. Champagne Épernay

About the Champagne

Champagne is undoubtedly France’s most famous fizz, if not the world’s! This wine-making region is on Paris’ northeast side, with the towns of Reims and Épernay often used as a visitors’ base. For sure, you want to visit a Champagne House when being in the area, so book your slot in advance. If the question should arise which one to choose, this is difficult because there are numerous! My husband and I visited the biodynamic Leclerc Briant Champagne House because we stayed at their hotel, a family house in the middle of Épernay (see below).

While Reims is a bigger town (population of about 180,000), Épernay is much smaller (22,000 inhabitants). Both have their charms. Reims boasts a nice old town and a splendid cathedral. The special feature of Épernay is the Avenue de Champagne. It has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2015. Here one Champagner House comes after another. And attached to them are bars and restaurants where you can taste the Houses’ finest cuvées, sometimes paired with culinary delicacies.

Our hotel: Le 25Bis by Leclerc Briant Épernay

For our two-day stay in the Champagne, my husband and I chose Le 25Bis by Leclerc Briant (Champagne House), opened in 2019. With its five rooms only, this former 18th century family home makes for an intimate stay. As it is located on the prestigious Avenue de Champagne, this luxury guest house comes with a Champagne shop and a terrace to try the House’s cuvées.

As to its interiors, it is a mix between old and new. Each room is different from each other. We opted for Room No. 3, which I personally find the best as it overlooks the (quiet) rear of the house with the garden. It is spacious (47 sqm), with a lovely seating area and quite a large bathroom.

And Le 25Bis by Leclerc Briant is a heaven for Champagne lovers! Not only were we treated a small bottle of their exquisite Champagne and cookies in our room, but we also got a glass of it every morning at breakfast! The room rate per night was 425€ (with breakfast), which we found adequate. A delightful little breakfast was included, prepared on site (behind the bar) by friendly staff.

Our restaurants: Bulles & Bonheur and Symbiose, both in Épernay

a) Bulles & Bonheur Épernay

I really wanted to have a dinner with a Champagne pairing and came across the Champagne producer of Élodie D. This is about a female wine growing business in the fourth generation. As to their restaurant, two tasting menus are on offer. The five-course Menu Élodie (wine grower) amounts to 70€ without and to 130€ with the Champagne pairing (5 glasses). Menu Fabrice (her husband), which we had, includes seven courses and costs 110€. Together with the Champagne pairing (five glasses) the total expense is 200€. As to the food, you get here immaculately prepared modern French cuisine, nicely presented, in pleasant surroundings.

Fabrice was present on our dinner and this together with a fifth generation member, the couple’s lovely daughter. She helped out with the service although being only about ten years old. And she did a good job just as the rest of the staff! In terms of Champagne, you get different cuvées of the Champagne Élodie D. and also old vintages of the Champagne Desbordes-Amiaud. We liked both of them, although the latter is a Champagne of a different kind. We found that it almost tasted like a port wine.

b) Symbiose Épernay

Symbiose is a small eatery in Épernay’s town center where Maxine Moret (chef) and his wife Justine (host) are in charge. On offer is a contemporary cuisine (Michelin listed). Although Justine was not present 0n our evening, we felt well cared for on our dinner. The modernly styled dining room feels pleasant.

In terms of food, there are three starters, two mains, cheese and two dessert available. Out of this offer, you can compose two menus (4-/5-course at 54/70€) or order à la carte. Everything we got – we opted for the 4-course version – was great! I liked it that the cuisine was not only modern but also light. Maybe the service was a bit slow-paced, but I think the chef was alone in the kitchen.

2. Honfleur Normandy

About Normandy

Normandy has lots to offer as to things to do. Its most popular attraction is of course the Mont-Saint-Michel Bay – a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979. Although it is overrun by tourists, it is worth visiting. Another must-do is exploring the different landscapes along the Alabaster Coast. There is the GR21 hiking trail running all the way from Le Havre to Le Tréport. Its most beautiful part is probably around Étretat with its beautiful cliffs – unfortunately overtouristed too. And if you are a history buff, the D-day beaches might be your thing.

As my husband and I already visited the Mont-Saint-Michel Bay and Étretat on our first trip to Normandy, we limited ourselves on discovering Honfleur a bit more. We did so by making a hike around Honfleur, here is the link to the track on Outdooractive.

As to Honfleur, we already knew it. Therefore, we expected lots of tourists here. It was exactly like that, but understandable. The historic multi-store houses packed tight to each other around the Vieux Bassin (port) make a beautiful picture.

Yet a few steps further, and you are away from the masses!

Our hotel: Saint-Delis Honfleur 

Our hotel in Honfleur was Hotel Saint-Delis, opened 2020 in a 17th century former family home.

It is located in a beautiful residential neighborhood, very close to the town center.With its nine rooms only, this Relais & Châteaux property is very boutique. The elegantly furnished rooms come with steam showers and overlook a splendid garden.

We had booked a Deluxe Room (31 sqm, 599€ with breakfast per night), yet were upgraded to a Junior Suite (40 sqm). It was a duplex with ample space, which we liked (No 5). And this despite the fact that the A/C was a bit suboptimal.

You find no restaurant on site but there is a bar for hotel guests only. Here you get a lovely breakfast and snacks throughout the day, served by friendly and helpful staff.

Our restaurants: Huître Brûlée & Le Bréard, both in Honfleur

a) Huître Brûlée Honfleur

At the Michelin listed Huître Brûlée you get oysters – as its name suggests! But we chose other items from the small à la carte, which is reasonably priced. The cuisine at this lively, casual place is modern.

And and you get also lighter and healthy choices. At the helm at Huître Brûlée is a younger couple, Paul Lacheray in the kitchen and his partner, Chloé Woestelandt, in the dining room. Even though the staff was busy on our visit, it was cordial. We liked what we had for starters (all around 15€) and mains (from 22 to 30€). Instead of  going for cheese (5€), my husband and I had two desserts (10€ each). Yet the latter was too much, as especially the chocolate dessert was quite heavy (one dessert is probably sufficient).

b) Le Bréard Honfleur

This Michelin dining spot is the more sophisticated choice compared to its above mentioned competitor. What they have in common, is the modern food. Yet the decor here is chicer, the service more polished and the cuisine a touch more refined.

A younger couple is in charge as well, Fabrice Sébire in the kitchen and his wife Karine in the dining room (since 2004). On our evening, we could have a seat outdoors in the lovely courtyard. From the three menus (with options), we chose the middle (3-course menu 45€, 4-course menu 60€, 6-course menu 70€).

The service was professional and attentive. We found that Karine had an open eye for subtleties that others might overlook. And there were no issues with the pricing, which we considered as fair.

Looking forth to road trip in North & Central France in style (part II & III)

That was the first part of a North and Central France trip my husband and I undertook lately. It showcased the itinerary from Switzerland – where we come from – to the Brittany. This is about the Champagne and Honfleur/Normandy, and I go into the best activities, hotels and restaurants here. The Brittany is the main focus of our journey and I deal with it in part two. Part three finally is about the return way, going from the Brittany via Cognac, the Dordogne and the Cantal back to Switzerland.

Date of stay: September 2024

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Chile is full of natural wonders, and the Atacama Desert, the driest on Earth, is one of them. In contrast to the country’s most popular natural highlight, South Patagonia with Torres del Paine National Park (my post), it is not so overflown by travelers. If you explore the area in an “anticyclical” way, you can avoid most daytrippers. This allows you to have the sights – think of bizarre rock formations, lagoons with flamingos or geysers, and this all against the backdrop of the Andes  – to yourself. And if look for the best luxury hotel in the Atacama Desert, there is no way around the Awasi Hotel.

First, I give you a short overview of upscale lodging in the Atacama Desert, and then go into much detail of staying at Awasi Atacama.

Overview luxury hotels in the Atacama Desert

The best place to enjoy the Atacama Desert is from San Pedro de Atacama, a desert oasis a one and a half-hour drive from Calama.

This small town looks like one from an old western with adobe buildings and dusty dirt streets. It is situated at 2,450 m (8,036 ft) above sea level. Here you have the choice between four high-end properties.

I start with the pioneer in terms of top end accommodation in the Atacama Desert, followed by more recent additions. All the lodging expect the Nayara Alto is only available on an all-inclusive basis.

1. Explora Atacama

Explora has set the standard for high-end lodging here since 1998. It is located on the outskirts of San Pedro with views of the “volcano land” on the horizon. There is usually a minimum stay here of three nights in the high season, which costs a little more than 2,000 US$ for two per night at the standard room (33 sqm, all-inclusive). As to the latter, it is comfortably enough yet not very luxurious, and there is no outdoor area. You find onsite 50 rooms. And excursions take place in small groups.

2. Awasi Atacama luxury hotel

The second provider in the luxury segment in the Atacama Desert – opened in early 2007 –  relies on another approach. Instead of views he offers a peaceful, intimate oasis in the interior of San Pedro. Each of the 12 traditional adobe huts, where the guest rooms are, is set away from the others. Already the entry-level accommodation offers much comfort and luxury (50 sqm). Every cottage comes with its own private guide. If you want to stay here you have to do so for at least three nights and have to spend a bit more than 2,000 US$ for two per night. Said that you have to be lucky to get one of the two Round Rooms. Otherwise, you have to opt for the more expensive option that is going to cost you a little more than 3,000 US$ for two per night (all-inclusive).

3. Tierra Atacama

The next luxury hotel on an all-inclusive basis followed a short time later, in early 2008. And it focuses as the Explora property on views. The accommodations are more numerous than at Awasi (32 units) yet fewer than at Explora. And the minimum stay in the high season is shorter than at its competitors (two nights). As to the location, it is just outside of San Pedro. And the rooms are quite luxurious in a minimalistic style and come with their own private terrace. To become a guest here you have to fork out a bit less than 2,000 US$ for two in the high season for the standard room (35 sqm). The explorations are carried out in small groups.

4. Nayara Alto Atacama

The fourth in this quartet has been on the market since late 2020, and this at an already existing hotel. It is slightly further away from San Pedro than the other high-end accommodations in the area. The Nayara Alto is set in a tranquil valley and boasts great views of the desert’s scenery. Its 42 rooms are spacious – even the standard room measures 50 sqm. They are traditionally furnished with modern amenities and have a private terrace. This “newbie” stands out from the competition because of the offered flexibility. There is no minimum stay and you can choose between several meal/activity plans. You can either opt for bed and breakfast only (905 US$), half board (1,165 US$), full board (1,425 US$), all-inclusive with shared explorations (1,580 US$) and with private guide (2,180 US$). All rates apply for the standard room in the high season for two (February 2024).

As you know by now, my husband and I went for Awasi Atacama where we stayed four nights. Here how it was.

Staying in style at luxury Hotel Awasi Atacama

Spoiler alert: Awasi Atacama was as good as my husband and I had hoped for. After all, it had cost us a fortune. Unfortunately, the two less expensive Round Rooms were already fully booked, so we had to take one of the Superior Round Suites.

While we were not completely convinced of Tierra’s performance at their Patagonia branch (see my post), luckily that was different at Awasi Atacama. Although I cannot give judgement on how Tierra Atacama is – as I have not been there – , I suppose it does not differ much from its sister hotel in Patagonia. But of course, I cannot know for sure …

The Awasi Atacama’s back story

Ana Sainz de Vicuña Bemberg, a high-net-worth individual from Buenos Aires, had the dream of opening a hotel in the Atacama Desert. And when she happened to visit Matías de Cristóbal’s shop – Awasi’s current general manager – in Buenos Aires, where he was selling high-quality handicrafts just as hand-woven ponchos, she immediately knew that he was Mister Right for her undertaking. And the former banker seized the opportunity of building a new luxury adventure lodge.

Matías de Cristóbal has been in charge of the three Awasi properties (Atacama since 2007, Patagonia since 2013 and Iguazu since 2018) ever since, and this for almost 20 years now. He persuaded his boss to opt for an African safari-style approach in the Atacama Desert

(see more below under Ambiance). And he voted for a more personalized approach compared to its competitor (Explora). Matías de Cristóbal thinks that luxury travel is connected with scarce things. He firmly believes that discerning travelers do not want to share their precious time with others who not necessarily have the same goals. So he brought in private guides, a n0velty in the area.

Ambiance/Staff

Awasi means “at home” in the local (extinct) language of Kunza. And it almost feels so being in your adobe hut. It is set apart from the others, and once inside it, intimacy is guaranteed. This is also true when lingering in the very private patio.

A drawback at this luxury Atacama hotel may be that you have no views whatsoever. As a replacement, you are here a short walk from the town’s main square, which allows you to experience its “old Western” vibe.

When you leave the privacy of your cottage, the communal areas very much remind of a typical African lodge. There is an open restaurant as well as an open bar. And the most prominent spot takes a fire-pit that is lit for the evening chill. The ambiance is relaxed yet does not have the groove of an adult-summer-camp as other adventures lodges. Instead, it feels somewhat sophisticated.

Staff goes the extra mile to ensure that the guests have a comfortable and enjoyable stay. No wish is too much for them. They know what you want before you communicate your desire or need. And they also chat with you a bit when the right conditions present themselves.

Rooms

I have already mentioned one thing or another about the rooms. The entry-level unit is the Round Room (50 sqm) with a bathroom featuring a shower and a single sink. Plus, there is a private patio with outdoor shower (there are two such rooms only). Alternatively, you find ten Superior Round Suites at Awasi Atacama luxury hotel.

We had one of those – for lack of availability of the less expensive option. They are bigger (65 sqm) and have a huge bathroom with shower, double sinks and bathtub.

In addition, there is sizable private patio with an outdoor shower.

The more expensive room category also comes with a walk-in wardrobe, desk and a chaise lounge. The latter is oversized and comfortable, draped with soft, handwoven alpaca blankets. In the evening at turn down they give you a thoughtful little gift with local reference, which is a nice touch.

Restaurant/Bar

The three Awasi properties are Relais & Châteaux hotels, which usually stand for culinary delights. And the promise is definitely kept at Awasi Atacama. Chef Juan Pablo Mardones has helming the cuisine since the very beginning. And he offers a local dining experience yet with a modern twist. Whenever possible he sources from the region and cooks according to old recipes passed down from generations in the area, too. His repertoire also consists of Native American dishes from pre-Hispanic times.

My husband and I liked what we got, be at breakfast, lunch or dinner. As to the latter, there usually is a daily changing menu

(barbecue with life music on Saturdays).

You can choose from two starters, mains and desserts each. For lunch they offer an à la carte menu with five starters, mains and desserts each plus a variety of lighter dishes.

Breakfast is also à la carte, much appreciated by us, with great choices.

A highlight was the picnic that we had when doing the full-day excursion to the El Patio geysers.

The wines that accompanied the meals were mostly good as well, although they rather served less expensive ones. For the elevated rate we paid, we would have considered premium wines as appropriate. Drinks were fine, and of course the (female) barkeeper knows how to do an excellent Pisco Sour.

Other facilities

There is a small pool if you want to refresh yourself and relax a bit in between excursions. Spa treatments are available upon request.

Excursions at Awasi Atacama luxury hotel

The main event at Awasi Atacama are of course the excursions, which are all included in the room price. A private guide is allocated to you, in our case Manuel who was fabulous. Upon arrival, he advised us on all the possibilities for half and full day outings. Think of exploring the area on foot, by car, on horseback or by bike. Everything we did was interesting and enjoyable. The highlight was the excursion to El Tatio Geysers where we experienced not only lots of these hot springs releasing jets of steam and water

but also varied landscapes and wildlife.

And Manuel also served us the most delightful lunch, three courses prepared by the Awasi’s kitchen staff.

Overall luxury hotel Awasi Atacama

While staying at Awasi Atacama is a costly affair – especially if the two entry-level rooms are already occupied – , they offer a lot for the money. I am not sure if the high pricing is justified, but these seem to be the market prices for such kind of all-inclusive high-end lodging around here. At least you are in for luxury with adventure at Awasi Atacama, and this at small scale hotel in a very personalized way. The property is gorgeous – African safari-like – , the guest room are spacious and luxuriously appointed, the service is top notch and the food is exquisite. Plus, the excursions with your private guide are just great. There is one thing, you have to want to embrace the “shielded” huts without any views. This distinguishes Awasi from the competition, which offers splendid vistas of  the “volcano land”.

Looking back and forward in my Chile & Buenos Aires reporting

Now with this report about how it is lodging at Hotel Awasi Atacama, I am done with Chile as to luxury hotels in nature. My last blogpost was about the same thing in Patagonia (Hotel The Singular Patagonia and Hotel Tierra Patagonia). My next three posts will be about how it staying and dining in style in the Chilean cities of Santiago and Valparaiso as well as in Argentina’s capital of Buenos Aires.

If you should be interested in the 20-day itinerary of the Chile and Buenos Aires journey my husband and I did, check out my correspondent post that contains My Google Map. It informs about all the high-end hotels and fine dining restaurants we visited and the things we did in these three cities (including city tours). And all this comes with lots of photos.

Date of stay: November 2023

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As a significant stage in the life of my husband and mine is about to come to an end – more info to follow later this year – , we  treated us to a special journey. It is about a once in a lifetime trip to Chile. We had thought hard about where to go in South America. After visiting Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands a few years ago, we had been a bit unsure where to head next. Brazil seemed too dangerous for us, Peru rather over-run by tourists. So, we opted for Chile. And this mainly because of its many natural wonders. As always when traveling we were looking for a luxury trip to Chile. While we usually try to avoid overspending when vacationing, we miserably failed here – so much I can tell you already. But first things first.

I start with some thoughts about where to go in Chile for luxury-minded globetrotters and then come to the actual itinerary.

Traveling Chile in style

While we first thought we had had plenty of time (20 days) to explore Chile, we soon found out that this was not necessarily the case. Out of four highlights – Atacama Desert, Patagonia, Easter Island and Lake District – , we had to leave away the latter two. First of all, we “lost” three days because we had a stopover in Buenos Aires.

We opted for this not only because of this city’s beauty but also due to less flight costs when doing so (minus a bit more than 2,000 US$ for two). And second, we longed for a non-rushed itinerary. Having said that we wanted to see different parts of Chile, not only one. Yet Patagonia is usually a must for every Chile traveler boasting varied landscapes with impressive glaciers, bizarre rock formations, blue lakes and extensive steppes.

Patagonia (south Chile, from Puerto Montt to Cape Horn) luxury trip

You have to know that you can easily spend four weeks in Patagonia without seeing it all. It is said that you need about two weeks to do the mayor things here, and this in a quick way. As you might know, Patagonia has a harsh climate. As my husband and I are not too much into spending lots of time at such latitudes, we limited our time here to five days. This is about the minimum time you should come and only allows you to explore one place. My husband and I chose Patagonia’s crown jewel. This is about the Torres del Paine National Park in Southern Patagonia (see post about luxury hotels here). You can reach it by flying into Puerto Natales from Santiago in just over three hours. Then you have to drive another one and half hours to get to the national park’s entrance.

A second Chile destination: Atacama Desert (north Chile, from Copiapó to Peruvian border)

If you want to combine Patagonia with a second destination in Chile – and if you like nature – , then the Atacama Desert is your best option (see post about luxury hotels here). While the Lake District also seems to be worthwhile traveling, Atacama is something special. It is not only the driest nonpolar desert in the world but also features diverse landscapes including geysers, lagoons, volcanoes and crusty hills. As to Easter Island, you have to take into account a flight of five and a half hours in order to get there. To enjoy the island’s cultural heritage and natural beauty to the full, I suppose you should plan at least a four-day stay. So, you need almost one week for this undertaking.

Thus, we went for Patagonia and the Atacama Desert. And to be honest, both of them are not exactly off the beaten path. They suffer from overtourism, especially the place we chose in Patagonia (Torres del Paine National Park). I fully realized this only after our journey. Yet, also in the hindsight, we would make the same choices. The Lake District, the most viable alternative to South Patagonia, is considered as “Chilean Switzerland”. And we as Swiss not necessarily need more Switzerland when traveling.

Santiago & Valparaiso as urban complements to Patagonia & Atacama Desert

Around the two nature highlights of Patagonia and the Atacama Desert we built in a number of urban stays. On the one hand, we were three times in Santiago (post about staying & dining in style) – once at an airport hotel as you cannot fly directly from the Atacama Desert to Patagonia.

On the other hand, we made a three-day visit to Valparaiso (post about staying & dining in style) – a one and a half hour drive away from Santiago.

This beautiful port city is Chile’s second largest and known for its colorful houses built on the many hills that surround it – and Valparaiso is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

In total, we had five days in Santiago and three days in Valparaiso. That is a lot of time, but as mentioned, we were looking for a non-rushed itinerary. You can easily reduce the Santiago stay to three days – you probably need one of them for a stopover between the Atacama Desert and Patagonia. As to Valparaiso, two days might be enough to see the mayor sights. We had thought about exploring the wine regions near Santiago. Yet we did not come across a suitable hotel, and so we let it be.

After setting the scene as to this luxury Chile trip, I jump into the details of our Buenos Aires and Chile itinerary.

My Google Map of Chile & Buenos Aires in style, a non-rushed 20-day itinerary 

My Google Map illustrates the 20-day journey to Chile and Buenos Aires my husband and I undertook in the first half of November 2023.

You find here all the luxury hotels (Patagonia, Atacama Desert, Santiago de Chile, Valparaiso and Buenos Aires) we stayed

and the foodie restaurants (Santiago de Chile, Valparaiso and Buenos Aires) we dined,

complete with pictures. In addition, I included all the activities we did,

again with photos.

As far as our stays in Patagonia around Puerto Natales and in the Atacama Desert in the San Pedro area are concerned, I listed all the half and full days trip guided by the hotels we stayed.

With regard to the cities we visited (Buenos Aires, Santiago and Valparaiso), I indicated the routes we took to explore them (self-guided).

In the following, there is also a travel plan of this luxury Chile trip with the number of nights we spent at the respective location (plus hotel).

• 3 nights in Buenos Aires (Park Hyatt Buenos Aires)
• 2 nights in Santiago (The Singular Santiago)
• 4 nights in San Pedro de Atacama (Awasi Atacama)
• 1 night in Santiago (airport, Holiday Inn Santiago)
• 2 nights in Puerto Natales (The Singular Patagonia)
• 3 nights in Torres del Paine National Park (Tierra Patagonia)
• 3 nights in Valparaiso (Casa Higueras)
• 2 nights in Santiago (The Singular Santiago)

What is next about Chile & Buenos Aires

While I provided an overview of our Chile and Buenos 20-day luxury trip in this blogpost, my next posts will be about the details of the respective stops we did. When doing so, I will focus on the hotels and restaurants we visited. Most of them were high-end, as it was a luxury Chile trip. At one point or another, I will also cast a look at activities, yet these will no be at the center of my attention. Instead, refer to My Google Map of Chile & Buenos Aires in style where I have listed all the things we did, complete with (numbered) pictures.

My Chile short series will cover following topics:

• Patagonia (my post): Hotel The Singular Patagonia (half board) and Hotel Tierra (all-inclusive)
• Atacama Desert (my post): Hotel Awasi Atacama (all-inclusive)
• Santiago (my post): Hotel The Singular Santiago and three foodie restaurants
• Valparaiso (my post): Hotel Casa Higueras and three high-end dining spots
• Buenos Aires (my post): Hotel Park Hyatt Buenos Aires and three gourmet restaurants

Date of stays: November 2023

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The post Chile & Buenos Aires in style, a non-rushed 20-day itinerary appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Yet again my husband and I made a find on our never-ending journey of chasing down Michelin stars. And this in a place we would have never dreamed of being successful in this mission. The restaurant (with premium hotel) is located in a remote spot in Sarentino valley in the Sarentino Alps. And imagine, you are here only a bit more than half an hour away from Bolzano, South Tyrol’s capital. This is about Hotel Terra The Magic Place, a Relais & Châteaux property, with its two-star Michelin Restaurant Terra. The name could not been more true! There is nothing far and wide, except a ski hut and this exceptional accommodation. Hotel Terra underwent a thorough renovation in recent years and offers high quality premises, boutique style.

Before I give you more information about Hotel Terra The Magic Place, first to the trip itinerary, from which this stay was part of. Precisely, it was the second stop after the nearby Merano, probably South Tyrol’s most popular town for vacationers.

Journey itinerary northern Italy and western Switzerland

Starting in Switzerland, our home country, we left for the Merano (Tirolo) area and afterwards to Bolzano’s further surroundings (Sarentino valley). After these two stops in Italiy’s most northeastern province of South Tyrol, we headed south, yet not too far. And this to Lake Garda. Here we had chosen a spot on its southwestern shore, the small town of Gardone Riviera (hotel/restaurants). This was our last destination in Italy before going back to Switzerland, precisely the Lake Geneva region. And here we had opted for Montreux. See also my overview post of this trip.

In case you should be interested rather in northwestern Italy, meaning Piedmont and Italian Riviera (plus south of France), here is another trip itinerary, undertaken in 2021. On both journeys, staying in luxury hotels and dining in Michelin (star) restaurants was important to us. But this only if prices for doing so were not excessive.

Now to our stay in the the Sarentino valley.

Staying in style at Hotel Terra The Magic Place Sarentino valley

Location

I already gave some hints as to this premium hotel’s situation (Sarentino valley in the Sarentino Alps above Bolzano in South Tyrol). In case you come from Bolzano in the south, you get to the valley’s capital of Sarentino in less than half an hour. From here you have to drive 15 more minutes on a narrow winding road to reach Hotel Terra The Magic Place. While there is not much traffic on this stretch of road, be prepared to face the one or other difficult situation when meeting oncoming cars!

If you should arrive from north, then you probably started in Austria. From Innsbruck you need about two hours to get here, crossing the Brenner pass. This is a mountain pass over the Alps, which forms the border between Italy and Austria.

While you are in Sarentino at 980 m/3,315 ft above sea level, Hotel Terra The Magic Place is much higher up, at 1,622 m/5,322 ft above sea level. Once at this spot (Prati/Auen), you are in the middle of nature. There is lots of forest around, it is hilly, and you have this fantastic view of the Dolomites mountain range, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Hotel Terra The Magic Place’s backstory

Johann Brugger, the grandfather of the sibling pair owning Hotel Terra The Magic Place, Gisela and Heinrich Schneider, laid the foundation stone for this property. He built the adjoining Sarner Ski Hut at the time when the ski trails were still trodden by foot. Resi, his oldest daughter (Gisela and Heinrich’s mother), got to know her future husband while helping out in this ski hut. Together they built up Hotel Auener Hof (former name of Hotel Terra), which was no easy thing as there was no electricity in the beginning.

The Schneider family loved fine food. And so they used to dine at gourmet restaurants when a special occasion arose. In 1998, Gisela and Heinrich took over the family business, when having finished their studies. They were young at the time (23 and 26 years old), and it was no easy undertaking. Their plan was it to transform the Auener Hof into a gourmet hotel. Heinrich, the chef, was very passionate about food. But he did not have much time to do internships and to learn from the masters. So, he went his own way (more about this later on).

In 2008, Heinrich Schneider got his first Michelin star, which was a big motivation for the Schneiders. Together with Gisela, responsible for the front of house, they aimed at new goals. Gisela’s partner, Karl Manfredi, joined them in the business, and they took the first step, the hotel’s renovation. In 2014, they became a member of the Relais & Châteaux hotel group. And in 2017, they got their second Michelin star! Shortly afterwards, the Auener Hof was renamed in Hotel Terra The Magic Place.

Ambiance/Service

When stepping foot in Hotel Terra The Magic Place, you are still under the impression of the somewhat difficult drive on that access road. And you still cannot believe that this place is real, a premium hotel with a two-star Michelin restaurant in this isolated spot! A modernist version of an Alpine chalet awaits you, wood in combination with large window fronts. And it feels boutique here.

Gisela Schneider awaited us behind the counter and ushered us right away to a seating area. Here she served us a welcome drink and home made crackers. And she asked us to fill in a form as to our wishes for breakfast. The offerings sounded promising, and we were already looking forward to this meal (do not miss the warm apple tart)! As to her person, she is friendly and helpful yet I found her to be quite understated. We found her brother, whom we talked to on our departure, to be more open.

Having said, we liked the vibe at the premises, be it at the restaurant or elsewhere. The atmosphere is laid-back and unpretentious. And every time when leaving our room, we encountered Gisela, either on her own or along with her husband and/or her brother. It is clearly a family affair at the Terra. Other staff we met, in particular two servers during dinner and the one or other chef appearing at our table, were all polite and professional.

Rooms/pricing at Hotel Terra The Magic Place

Ten room are at your disposal at this foodie hotel, all of them nicely furnished in a minimalistic style with lots of wood and decorated in natural hues. Out of these three are suites: Panorama Suite (the newest addition, 47 sqm & terrace 19.5 sqm), the Pine Studio Deluxe 46 sqm & terrace 25 sqm) and the Junior Suite (47 sqm & terrace 19.5 sqm).

When it comes to rooms, the Superior Room is actually the same as the Junior Suite, minus the additional room with a sofa bed (38 sqm & terrace 19.5 sqm). Then there is the Design Room (27 sqm) with access to a garden with two sun loungers at your disposal.

All the suites and rooms expect the Design Room category are south-facing, with views of the Dolomites, this stunning range of mountains, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Rates start at 340 € per room and night. In addition, there is a bunch of packages, starting from a one night stay to a five-night one. The least expensive price is 680 € and includes accommodation, breakfast and the Terra Experience Tasting Menu for two.

My husband and I went for the Junior Suite along with the Two-Night Romantic Getaway. Here is what to know about it.

Our choice of room & package: Junior Suite & 2-Night Romantic Getaway

As mentioned, 47 sqm await you plus 19.5 more on the the terrace. When booking, I had not realized that the second room (9 sqm) is not of much use for a couple. This space is not integrated in the main room but a separate bedroom for one to two children. It contains a sofa bed only and feels a bit claustrophobic. We actually entered the room only once, and this when checking it out on arrival. Opting for a Superior Room from the beginning would have been the smart move, as it is actually – as outlined – the same without the additional room.

The main room was spacious enough for the two of us. There is a small seating area plus a tiny desk with chair. What I liked much was the roomy walk-in closet and the generous terrace complete with table, two chairs and two sun loungers.

As to the bathroom, it is not huge yet adequately sized, coming with a large walk-in shower and double sinks.

In terms of package, the 2-Night Romantic Getaway includes two dinners in the Michelin-two star Restaurant Terra. On the first day you get a down to earth five-course dinner, on the second a creative ten-course tasting menu (Terra Experience). Also part of the package is a fabulous breakfast that you receive in a separate room adjoining the dining-room. And much appreciated by us, everything is served, no need to stand up and to help yourself from a buffet

Last but not least, a bottle of sparkling wine and a chocolate bar were laid out in our room on our arrival.

Other facilities/activities Hotel Terra The Magic Place

Apart from the main dining room and the breakfast restaurant there is not much as to public space. Adjoining the reception area is some kind of library/lounge.

And since recently, you find onsite a small but fine wellness area. It is located on the property’s top floor and is only open in the afternoon. There is a jacuzzi with views of the Dolomites mountain range, a Finnish sauna and a herbal steam bath plus a relaxation area. In addition, you can book an array of massages and other treatments. We did not go to the spa so I cannot provide any pictures. Yet it looks promising on the website.

What we did here, and which is THE thing to do here, is hiking. The most popular hike in the area is the one to the Stone Men (see also on the hotel’s website).

My husband and I followed the following trail (outdooractive). However, we did an additional loop to the Kreuzjoch (see my tracked trail, only the one back, on outdooractive). And it is well worth as you have a great panoramic vista from here.

After all these details about staying in style at Hotel Terra The Magic Place, now to what it offers with regard to dining in style. And this is impressive!

Dining in style at Restaurant Terra Sarentino valley

As you know so far, a Michelin two-star dining experience awaits you at Restaurant Terra. Before I dive into it, a few lines about the chef and its cuisine.

Chef/Cuisine

You have already learnt that the chef, Heinrich Schneider, did not do many internships at other restaurants. He does not have a mentor either. Instead, he describes himself as self-taught – although having done an apprenticeship as a chef. Yet, he rather took inspiration from his surroundings than from grand masters. His cuisine’s DNA is all about wild herbs and plants. And he uses those growing around the property, just as his mother did. He collects them himself, and he does this on his own. At some time in the past, he even did a training in this field, to get to know other, lesser known herbs.

As far as other ingredients are concerned, he tries to source locally whenever possible. He wants to offer his guests produce they cannot taste elsewhere. Yet, in case he thinks that for example caviar is necessary for a certain dish, then he does not shy away from using it. Although, he has to buy it from another region or even from abroad.

Dinner experience at Restaurant Terra

As I let you know, my husband and I dined twice at Restaurant Terra, on subsequent days (we had booked the 2-Night Romantic Getaway). So, we had two different experiences, one a bit more grounded, the other sophisticated.

Design

Before describing how it is dining here, some lines to the dining spot’s look. I was astonished to discover that the elegant dining-room is not only airy, but elegant and modern at the same time. You still have to consider we are here up in the mountains, in an off-the-beaten-path place. There are two prominent features that catches your eye. First, there is the suspended, glass-walled wine room above your heads, Gisela Schneider’s empire (she is a sommeliere too).

It is in competition with the huge picture windows providing a stunning view over the mountain world.

In addition, you find here an open kitchen where you can watch the chef working along his team. I have to say I was impressed by Terra’s appearance!

But that was not the only thing that made a lasting impact on us.

Day 1: The Chef’s Childhood Memories

We started our “gourmet dinner marathon” at Hotel Terra The Magic Place with the more down to earth experience. Having said that, it did not lack refinement.

The start made a praline of dried mushroom along with cornflower. From the very first moment, the chef makes clear what his cuisine is about, wild plants and herbs. Next, was the bread, rye and spelt sourdough bread along with local butter and spruce tree shoots oil. When doing research about the chef, I found out that he has an ambivalent relation to bread. He thinks that it is not a necessity when having a tasting meal. This because it can steal your appetite. And consequently, it may rob you out of the fun of fine dining. There is something about that!

We continued with carrot tartar, paired with cress and herbal salsa, followed by buckwheat risotto in unison with mountain cheese. Afterwards we got pasta – of course, we are in Italy. But it was not the usual one, precisely spaghetti made with yeast and egg, which results in a different taste. The accompanying herbs were waldmeister and yarrow.

The main course was braised meat, glazed ox cheeks with peas-mint cream. We ended with amaretti curd cheese dumplings, paired with apricots and basil ice-cream plus some petit fours. And this dish is clearly a reminiscence of South Tyrol’s past as part of Austria.

Day 2: The Terra Nature Experience

The second dinner at Hotel Terra The Magic Place was the turn of the whole shebang! The menu was written down on an overlong piece of paper, quite an event that was! Hence, I will not go into all the details of the meal. I will not always mention it, yet each and every dish contained at least one wild herb and/or plant. And I have to admit, many of them were unknown to me.

We warmed up with a variety of snacks, each of those an artwork in itself. And the whole was accompanied by dry ice mist, which is time and time again quite a sight. Next was a variation of the rainbow trout, followed by a trio of dishes without any apparent connection (at least to me). Among them, liquid cheese gnocchi. Then it was up to another Italian influenced course, a glazed “jumbo” ravioli with fresh herbs. It came with the same bread we had the day before.

The dinner continued with a fish dish, brook trout in burnt milk. Yet another ravioli was served, this time with beetroot and nettles. The last savory course was deer in two preparations, as praline and as saddle.

Ultimately, it was time for desserts. First, there was a white strawberry sphere along with a medley of cow parsley granita and spruce oil stones. The second one was also split in two. There was a cone filled with rye foam and wheat grass on the one hand. On the other hand, a composition made of verbana sorbet, raspberry, yoghurt, thyme and iced milk joined in. A small tea ceremony set the final point, consisting of herbal tea and an assortment of petit-fours.

How was it?

Not every day, you get the chance to dine at one and the same two-star Michelin restaurant two days in a row. To avoid a repetitive experience, it was essential that the two meals were totally different. And Heinrich Schneider managed this task very well. While one meal was rather on the rustic side – yet refined enough for a high-end dining spot – , the other one was culinary fireworks, for both eyes and palate. You well notice the chef’s love for his home, the mountains and their produce. The bounty of nature is really astonishing, all these edible items that are around. And he knows exactly how to incorporate them in his menus to achieve maximum effect.

All the courses we had were immaculately prepared and beautifully arranged. And the sometimes colorful herbs definitely helped to strengthen the impression. My favorite dishes were probably the “jumbo” ravioli and the desserts,

which were balanced tasting experiences. I already said a few words to ambiance and service above. To add to these, both evenings passed seamlessly, with everything perfectly orchestrated.

If I want to picky, then I would point out one thing that did not add up to me. And this is the second course in the menu “The Chef’s Childhood Memories” (first day). I cannot imagine that Heinrich Schneider was served carrot tartare as a child as this dish rather seems to be a “newfangled” one. While this is not utterly relevant, there was some other thing about it. The carrot tartar was the only course I was not a particular fan of. I found it quite heavy and the portion as too sizable. But otherwise, the chef’s performance was convincing. The gourmet dinners “in a double pack” at Hotel Terra The Magic Place delivered what they promised – and we enjoyed it!

Overall Hotel Terra The Magic Place

The total package at Hotel Terra The Magic Place in the remote Sarentino valley high above Bolzano, South Tyrol’s capital is amazing! If you are a nature and fine dining lover likewise, then I strongly recommend looking into this place. In case you like staying in style too plus you are into hiking in the mountains, I cannot think of a better spot than this boutique lodging. A two-star Michelin restaurant plus newly renovated premises await you here in the Sarentino Alps. Furthermore, an engaged and capable sibling pair is in charge here at Hotel Terra The Magic Place. She is the host, and he is the chef.

To top this already astonishing performance, you have the most remarkable view of the Dolomites mountain range, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, from here. Plus, in case you should be into records, Hotel Terra The Magic Place hosts the highest located Michelin star in whole Italy. In addition, the chef has his unique style when it comes to preparing and serving food. Grown up in the mountains and not having done lots of internships at other restaurants, he became THE connoisseur as to wild herbs and plants.

Looking back and forward

The stay at Hotel Terra The Magic Place is part of a mini-series about a trip to northeastern Italy and western Switzerland. It covers four stops in total, two in South Tyrol, one on Lake Garda and one on Lake Geneva. This very post went into the second destination. For the itinerary of this 14-day journey, check out my overview blogpost. Next on my blog you will find out about a four-day stay on Lake Garda, at the fabulous Grand Hotel Fasano in Gardone Riviera.

It is located on the southwestern shore of Italy’s largest lake, near the town of Salò. Expect information about where to stay and dine in style. And the latter concerns all the four restaurants in town that are included in the Michelin Guide.

Date of stay: September 2023

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Yet another road trip in north Italy and west Switzerland was on my husband’s and my agenda this late summer. And this after already doing one to Italy’s north (and France’s south) in 2021 (see my post). But this region in Italy has so much to offer in terms of great destinations, luxury hotels and Michelin (starred) dining spots. And contrary to our last journey, we went more east this time, to Trentino-South Tyrol and Lombardy. Before coming to details where we were headed (this and the last trip), some info on our travel focus. My husband and I like to travel in style. That means looking for high-end lodging and Michelin fine dining wherever we get to. Yet we attach great importance to not paying exorbitant prices.

Now to the itineraries as announced.

North Italy & west Switzerland 14-day road trip itinerary

For the itinerary of our last trip in the area, check out my correspondent post. It went to northern Italy and southern France in 11 days. As to the Italian part, we started in the Piedmont (Lake Orta and around Alba) and continued to the Italian Riviera (Alassio). After crossing the border to France, we headed first to Vence (French Riviera), then to the Provence (near Les Baux-de-Provence). The last stop before returning to Switzerland was in Vienne, south of Lyon.

This time, we began our journey in the Trentino-South Tyrol (Italian: Trentino-Alto Adige). Find here my Google Map of it.

Our first two destinations were in the South Tyrol. Dorf Tirol (Italian: Tirolo) above Meran (Italian: Merano)

made the start – not to be confused with the Austrian region of the same name! You might have already noticed it, the South Tyrol is bilingual (German and Italy), not so the Trentino. Next was the nearby Sarntal (Italian: Sarentino valley)

above Bozen (Italian: Bolzano). And the last stop in Italy were the Italian Lakes, precisely Lake Garda.

While its northern part is still in the Trentino-South Tyrol region, the place we went – Gardone Riviera (hotel/restaurants) – is already in the Lombardy (Italian: Lormbardia). The final destination of our trip was the Lake Geneva region, in the western part of Switzerland, exactly Glion/Montreux.

From place to place in north Italy & west Switzerland

As my husband and I like to travel in style – without losing sight of value for money -, we made sure to stay at upscale hotels and to dine at gourmet restaurants, preferably Michelin listed or starred places. This was not really a difficult thing to do as north Italy and west Switzerland has quite a choice for lovers of fine lodging and dining.

I always begin with a short description of the respective town/region and continue with providing some brief information on the high-end hotel we stayed and on the fine dining spot(s) we ate in this place. Sometimes, I will also mention some other places to stay and dine in style in the area that might be worth trying out.

1. Tirolo above Merano, Trentino-South Tyrol

1.1. About Tirolo

Tirolo is located above Merano, the hub here. As to the latter, it is small yet fine spa town in the heart of the South Tyrol. Actually, it is the second largest city in the South Tyrol (about 40,000 inhabitants). This medieval town has been a popular place to go since Empress Elisabeth of Austria (Sissi) started coming here. And she did this especially because of its spa and its almost Mediterranean climate. Lots of buildings, parks and promenades stem from this time.

And if you like walking, Merano and its surroundings is known for its abundance of Waalwege, trails alongs irrigation canals.

As far as Tirolo is concerned, it also is steeped in culture and history. You find here and around it some notable castles, fortresses and churches, from which the Tyrol Castle is the most prominent. Otherwise, the small village (about 2,500 inhabitants) draws lots of vacationeers in search of sun, panoramic vistas and hiking opportunities.

You can reach Merano from here in a short drive either by car or by bus. There is also a chairlift connecting these two places.

1.2. Which hotel to choose as demanding guest in Tirolo

There is a huge selection of luxury hotels in the Merano area to choose from. After having stayed here several times in the past, I have identified two of the best (see also my correspondent post). While we tried out a “new one” on our last stay, this time we returned to the one we knew from two previous stays. And I have to say that this luxury hotel is hard to beat! The latest renovation (2021) made it a state-of-the-art property with all the amenities you can think of. It is about Hotel Castel in Tirolo. It also hosts the one and only two-star Michelin restaurant in the Merano region. A post to come will go into more details of this stunning lodging.

1.3. Where to go for great Michelin listed (starred) restaurants in Tirolo

I just mentioned it, you do not have to leave your hotel in case you stay at the Castel in Tirolo when looking for best fine dining in the area. This is because the top place in this respect is on site. It is about Restaurant Castel Fine Dining, a Michelin two-starred establishment, and this since 2010 (formerly Trenkerstube).

When being a hotel guest at Hotel Castel, you are on half board – there is no other noteworthy (Michelin) fine dining in Tirolo anyway. And this arrangement allows you to enjoy exquisite food without even visiting the mentioned Michelin starred Restaurant Castel Fine Dining.

Notwithstanding that, when being a fine food lover, I highly recommend dining here once during your stay. This gives you not only the opportunity to indulge in chef Gerhard Wieser’s signature dishes but also to check out one of the most beautiful dining rooms I have ever encountered (only five tables and all have this tremendous view of Merano from high above). More about dining at Hotel Castel and at Restaurant Castel Fine Dining follows in the above mentioned future post.

2. Sarentino valley above Bolzano, Trentino-South Tyrol

2.1. About the Sarentino valley

The Sarentino valley stretches northwards from Bolzano, South Tyrol’s capital and its largest city (about 110,000 inhabitants). When coming from Merano, I recommend to make a short stop in Bolzano to check out its beautiful old town.

This especially given the fact that you only need about one hour for your drive from Merano to the hamlet above Sarnthein (Sarentino), the valley’s capital, where our choice of hotel is located. Bolzano – as Merano – was influenced by Germanic and Italian currents, yet I personally find that it feels more Italian than Merano.

Just a few kilometers/miles away from the bustling regional center of Bolzano you reach the idyllic village of Sarentino (2,300 inhabitants). This is another world, full of wild nature and far off the beaten track. And the area is great for hiking with a view. A great panoramic vista awaits you – among others the entire spectrum of the Dolomites, a UNESCO world natural heritage.

While you are in the village of Sarentino at 980 m/3,315 ft above sea level, you have to climb further  up in order to come to Prati/Auen where you find the hotel I am going to inform you about. And the road to it is narrow!

2.2. Where to stay in the Sarentino valley as discerning traveler

First and foremost, there is one place in the area that makes people loving the finer things in life to come here. And this is Hotel Terra The Magic Place! Once you have the before mentioned narrow road behind you, you made it to this remote spot at 1,622 m/5,322 ft above sea level. There are a public parking lot (for hikers), a ski hut and this amazing hotel you would not think finding here. It is a Relais & Châteaux property that has seen several renovations and expansions since 2010, a true gem surrounded by unspoiled nature. And imagine it not only offers immaculate lodging but also a two-star Michelin dining-spot! If you want to know more about this place, one of my next blogpost will go into it.

In case you are looking for prime lodging around the village of Sarentino

and nearer to Bolzano, Hotel Bad Schoergau might be a good option too. I have not been here but I liked what I saw when checking it out on the internet.

2.3. Where to dine in style in the Sarentino valley

What draws hard-core foodies to the Sarentino valley, is of course the mentioned Michelin two-starred Restaurant Terra at Hotel Terra The Magic Place high above the village of Sarentino. You will find more info about it in my post about the hotel in question soon on my blog.

Yet there is more of fine dining in the village of Sarentino. On the one hand, it is about the Michelin listed dining spot at the already highlighted Hotel Bad Schoergau, the Ristorante Alpes/La FuGa. On the other hand, you find a Michelin eatery in town too, Restaurant Braunwirt. I have not dined at either of them, so I cannot comment, but the reviews are good.

3. Gardone Riviera on Lake Garda, Lombardy

3.1. About Gardone Riviera

Before coming to the town of Gardone Riviera, a few words about Lake Garda. It is one of the Italian Lakes, a group of larges lakes on the south side of the Alps, all of them glacial ones. And Lake Garda is not only the largest of them but also in whole Italy. On its western shore, you find the Lemon Riviera – from Salò to Limone. This stretch along the lake has a mild, Mediterranean-like climate, so even citrus fruits grow here.

As to Gardone Riviera – on the Lemon Riviera – , it is favorably located for many sights. Not only boasts it some important ones on site – Il Vittoriale degli Italiani (a Gesamtkunstwerk of house, monument and fantasy)

or the Heller Botanical Garden,

it is close to many others. I mention here for example Salò, the region’s town with the nicest Lungolago (lakeside promenade)

or Sirmione, THE tourist attraction in the area (expect masses of people here) with the Scaliger Castle (an extraordinary lakeside fortification)

or the Grottoes of Catullus (a striking example of a Roman villa, now in ruins).

While Gardone Riviera is not large (it only has a bit more than 2,500 inhabitants), it has everything that makes a real place – a nice Lungolago, a small old quarter by the lake, an old town on the hillside. And its laid-back ambiance is a plus too. And it is even considered as one of the most beautiful villages in Italy (part of I Borghi più Belli d’Italia).

3.2. Which luxury hotel to choose in Gardone Riviera

You find quite a number of upscale hotels in Gardone Riviera. Many of them are late 19th, early 20th century properties. Some line the lake front, others are located hillside, overlooking the lake. At the end, we had fluctuated between Hotel Bella Riva and Grand Hotel Fasano. Finally, we decided for the latter, and this for various reasons. First, it is a wonderful old building in a stately park among ancient trees, frontally facing the lake. Second, it is closer to the town center. Third, it has a Michelin listed restaurant on site.

And we were not disappointed by our choice. It is such a beautiful property, a fantastic example of neoclassical style architecture. The building was constructed in 1888 as a hunting lodge for the Austrian imperial family. And it was declared a National Heritage Site by the Ministry of Cultural Heritage. The Fasano, part of the Leading Hotels of the World, also underwent some renovations recently. So, we enjoyed among other things an updated guest room with a great lake view. If you should be interested in more information about this accommodation, I will provide some in a post to come.

3.3. Where to go a fine dining lover in Gardone Riviera

I already let you know that Grand Hotel Fasano hosts a Michelin listed restaurant. It is about Restaurant Il Fagiano, helmed by a Michelin one-star chef.

But there is more around for gourmets! If you are a hard-core foodie, try to get a booking at Restaurant Lido 84.

This beautifully located restaurant right on the lake has a Michelin star plus it ranks No 7 on the list of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants.

And there are two more Michelin restaurants in this picturesque lakeside town. On the one hand, you find here Restaurant Fiordaliso at the Hotel of the same name. Again, it has this stunning location at the water’s edge.

On the other hand, Gardone Riviera’s scenic old town also features an awarded dining-spot. It is about Osteria Antico Brolo in a rustic 18th century building.

All the restaurants I just mentioned can be reached by foot from Grand Hotel Fasano. While Restaurant Lido 84 and Restaurant Fiordaliso are very close, Osteria Antico Brolo is a bit further away, you get here in about a 15 minute walk. You will find out about how it is dining at all these four dining spots in a future post, along with the lodging experience at Grand Hotel Fasano.

4. Glion above Montreux on Lake Geneva

4.1. About Glion/Montreux & where to stay here in style

I will not go into details here as I have already informed about this topic in a previous post. If you want to know more about the Lake Geneva region, especially about the Montreux Riviera and Lausanne, have a look here. As far as our lodging in Glion is concerned, we returned to one we already had stayed at back in 2021. Find here the hotel review of Hotel and Restaurant Victoria.

4.2. Michelin starred dining in Montreux area

In addition to dining at the hotel restaurant again (see above), we tried out two more dining-spots. Both of them are awarded with a Michelin star. It is about one in Glion itself, the other in another village above Montreux. The first is Restaurant Le Pont de Brent in Brent (UPADATE: out of business in November 2023).

You can reach it in a ten-minute drive (best by taxi or Uber) from Hotel Victoria. The other is Maison Décotterd, only a few minutes away by foot from this accommdation.

A post to follow will give you an impression of how it is dining at these two gourmet temples.

What is next about north Italy & west Switzerland

I already let you know, I do not want to leave it at the itinerary and some short remarks as to our north Italy & west Switzerland 14 day-trip in style. I want to delve deeper and let you know how it was in every single place. The start makes the Merano area, followed by the Sarentino valley, both in the South Tyrol. I continue with the Lake Garda region, and this with the southwestern part, also called Lemon Riviera (hotel/restaurants). And the end sets an area in western Switzerland. And this is Montreux on Lake Geneva.

After having made the one or two bits of information on the respective places in general (what to expect as a traveler here), I will not offer more details in this regard. Instead, I will put a focus on the upscale hotels we stayed and the Michelin restaurants we dined. Actually, all the dining spots we visited on this journey through north Italy and west Switzerland are listed in the Michelin Guide except one (Restaurant Victoria Glion). Six of them even are Michelin-starred, that means we “collected” eight Michelin stars in total!

I will publish a post for each place. Consequently, there will be following four more blogposts on this topic:

• Hotel Castel in Tirolo/South Tyrol with two-star Michelin Restaurant Castel Fine Dining,
• Hotel Terra in the Sarentino valley/South Tyrol with two-star Michelin Restaurant Terra,
• Grand Hotel Fasano in Gardone Riviera/Lake Garda with Michelin starred Restaurant Il Fagiano plus three more foodie spots in town,
• two one-star Michelin restaurants in Montreux/Lake Geneva

Other similar itineraries

In case you should be interested in other similar itineraries than this current one about northwest Italy and southeast France, here are more:

• Northern Italy & southern France in style, a 11-day road trip itinerary
• 11 days on the road in the Piedmont & west Switzerland in luxury

Date of stay: September 2023

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Now it is up to where to go for staying and dining in style in Mallorca’s north in the Pollença area. This is the second of four posts in total about luxury hotels and (Michelin) fine dining on this Balearic Island, region-by-region. My last blogpost went into Mallorca’s southwest. In my next one, I will inform on the northeast around Canyamel. And the Balearics’ capital of Palma will make the end. This mini-series about Mallorca started with thoughts to the island’s overtourism. It was followed by a 15-day itinerary that outlined staying and dining in style in an overall way.

First a few lines about Pollença and its surroundings. Then I will deal with a great upscale hotel and three just such (Michelin) restaurants right away.

Mallorca’s north, around Pollença

Pollença (7 km/4.4 mi from the coast) and Port de Pollença (on the sea) are both small traditional vacation resorts. And fortunately, there is little mass tourism here. While the former is an attractive ancient town, the latter is a relaxed beach resort. Palma is about a 45-minute-drive away from Pollença.

When you are in the area, do not miss Pollença’s many sights, just as El Calvari, where 365 steps lead you to the church from the 18th century. As to Port de Pollença, it is a nice thing to stroll along the Pine Walk (Passeig Vora Mar). This stretch of bay is known for many beautiful properties built by rich Mallorcan and Spanish people. Right after Port de Pollença, the Formentor peninsula starts. If you go to its very end – not possible per car anymore – you come to Cap Formentor, Mallorca’s most northern tip.

Staying in style in Mallorca’s north at Hotel Son Brull

The place to go here for upscale lodging is Hotel Son Brull, a member of the Relais & Château hotel group. The accommodation, a former monastery, is boutique and run by the Mallorcan Suau family. It is a 30-hectare/74-acre estate, but most hotel facilities are concentrated on a relatively small surface.

Location

Son Brull is seven minutes by car away from the town of Pollença, amidst beautiful nature. Although you have views of the Bay of Pollença in the distance, it is basically an inland setting. Furthermore, you are here in the foothills of the northern Tramuntana mountains. Although Son Brull is a large property, going for a short stroll is not really an option. The furthest walk you can undertake is the one to the tennis court (about 5 minutes).

Ambiance/Staff

Compared to the hotel my husband and I were before (Castell Son Claret, my post), the vibe here is more relaxed and casual. If you have a request or a question, staff is friendly and ready to be of service. However, pampering guests is not their thing, they rather have an understated approach when dealing with their clientele. Nevertheless, you feel well at ease here.

Rooms/Pricing

There are 27 guest rooms in total. 23 are in the main building, and only a few of them have balconies. In addition, there are four new two-room villas onsite. They are a few steps away with great views of the countryside.

And these accommodations are high-end. Not only have they a separate living room with fireplace but also a private garden with pool. Rates for the least expensive room (Superior Double 32-35 sqm) start from 252€ in low and twice as much in shoulder season.

We had chosen the (one and only) Junior Suite with Terrace (70 sqm).

It is well-appointed in a modern style with a sizable bathroom

and a separate tub in the bedroom.

The room’s best feature is the terrace with a jacuzzi and an outdoor living room.

The rate for it was 730€ per night including breakfast in early April.

Other facilities

Two restaurants and a bar offer dining opportunities for all occasions. For more information on the food, please refer to the section about dining in style. Besides there are a spa, an indoor and outdoor pool,

a tennis court and guest bikes.

Other luxury lodging in the area

As from 2023, Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts will be present in Mallorca. They will manage the former Hotel Formentor on the Formentor peninsula. My husband and I passed it while doing a hike in the area.

The setting is truly appealing, right on the beach in a remote location.

While it must be the paradise for beachgoers and hikers, it probably is not your first choice if you plan to explore the whole island from here. This is due to the fact that this beautiful spot draws massive crowds who come here for a day trip. So you might get stuck in the traffic every now and then.

Now to three recommended dining-spots for foodies in the area, out of which two are at Hotel Son Brull.

Dining in style in Mallorca’s north

On our stay in early April not all the dining venues that I had looked into were already open for the season (for instance Maca de Castro in Alcúdia, one-star Michelin, or Fusion19 in Playa de Muro, Michelin listed). So, our choice was a bit limited. Luckily, we could make use of three dining opportunities at our hotel, Son Brull, from which we tried out two. To our disappointment, the nearby town of Pollença does not excel with top gastronomy. Instead, we found a casual foodie place in the nearby Port de Pollença.

1. 365 Restaurant (signature – Michelin – restaurant at Hotel Son Brull)

Hotel Son Brull’s signature restaurant, 365,

offers a superb fine dining experience that is amazingly affordable too. You can have here a multi-course tasting menu only, either six or eight courses. It is up to you to choose the regular (70/90€) or the vegetarian (60/80€) one. As the latter one sounded interesting, my husband and I gave it a try and we were not disappointed. The chef, Andreu Segura, plays well with textures and flavors. He created a great culinary journey, rooted in his home island of Mallorca. For this purpose, he uses produce that stems from the hotel’s own farm and other local producers. We even got a cheese course on the house, a nice touch. My favorite courses – yet all were delicious – were maybe the green peas as an open “panada” (pie)

or the artichoke “negra” (black) with almond.

The setting at 365 is great. While the dining-room inside the old walls is rather dark, it is elegantly furbished in a modern style.

And when the weather is fine, you can have dinner poolside. Service was pleasant and helpful yet rather on the unassuming side. As at the hotel overall, making a fuss or being pompous is not their style. Regarding staff, we especially appreciated the sommelier’s expertise and gracious attitude.

2. Bistro (second restaurant at Hotel Son Brull)

The second restaurant at Hotel Son Brull, Bistro, is for people looking for an uncomplicated yet tasty dinner. From what I understand, they have recently upgraded their offerings, from only some basics to quite a choice of Mediterranean-style dishes. My husband and I had definitely no problems finding something that appealed to us. We started with tapas,

continued by lobster rice

respectively red tuna loin.

Everything we had was of high quality, well prepared and full of taste.

The Bistro is housed in a historic olive mill that was beautifully restored.

There is also a second dining-room plus alfresco dining, weather permitting. As to service, they did a good job and we enjoyed our evening here.

3. Restaurant Terrae Port de Pollença (Michelin)

The dinner at this modern rustic restaurant – Michelin listed – was a memorable one. This because Terrae was special, in many ways. By chance, we were already in town the afternoon before dining here. Therefore, we decided to catch a glance at the Terrae. While doing so, a nice guy from the opposite side of the street asked us whether we are looking for something. And it turned out that he was the dining-spot’s chef, David Rivas. He comes from Margarita, an island in the Venezuelan Caribbean and has been cooking in Port de Pollença for more than six years.

When entering the dining-spot in the evening, the air was smoky from the grill. But things got better quickly. We were ushered to a tiny wooden table, but everything here is so. There are only a few tables, and the chef stands in front of the counter preparing the dishes. At the other side of it, there is the “grill master”.

We received no menu, a server told us what was available. We ordered tapas (bread with hummus, smoked cabbage croquettes, smoked duck breast),

followed by lamb confit with potatoes.

Everything was fabulous, also the dessert, David’s take on lime tart.

He only uses sustainable, local produce and prepares them in a twisty way, we liked it! And the experience was very personable too. The ambiance at Terrae is very casual, I could imagine that it is not for everyone here, but the chef really knows his stuff!

Looking back and forward

After giving an overview of where to go for staying and dining in style when doing a round trip in Mallorca (four places: southwest, north, northeast and Palma), I continued with detailed reports on the individual spots. My last went into the southwest (around Capdellà), the current was about the north and the next will focus on the Canyamel area in the northeast.

The whole thing will be rounded off with information to a luxury hotel and two Michelin one-star restaurant in Palma, the island’s capital.

In case you should be interested in the touristic situation of Mallorca, I also devoted a blogpost to its overtourism and what the island does to fight against it.

Date of stay: April 2022

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Without knowing it, my husband and I dined at one of France’s iconic culinary institutions! Restaurant La Pyramide in Vienne, south of Lyon, was regarded as the country’s greatest restaurant. And this was under the lead of Fernand Point (from 1925 to 1955). He ranks as one of the fathers of French nouvelle cuisine. His most famous apprentice is none other than Paul Bocuse! Nowadays, chef Patrick Henriroux is the chef at Hotel La Pyramide Vienne. While he does of course not have the same status as Fernand Point, he definitely is an extremely talented cook. He has been holding his two-star Michelin rating for 30 years. My husband and I became fast fans of his modern yet intricate cuisine.

Find out how it is staying and dining at Patrick Henriroux’s pleasant Hotel La Pyramide, south of Lyon. My husband and I had chosen this accommodation for our last stop back home from a trip through north Italy and south France. And it turned out to be more than a worthy place to end a great journey! Before coming to our stay’s details, first some lines to the restaurant’s famous history, Patrick Henriroux’s work here and our Italy/France itinerary.

About La Pyramide’s history

Restaurant De La Pyramide in Vienne, south of Lyon, is nothing short of one of France’s legendary temples of gastronomy. And this is because of Fernand Point who was running it for 30 years. He was among the first chefs awarded three Michelin stars (in 1933). When he died in 1955 at the age of 58, his wife Marie-Luise Paulin, “Mado”, took over. She was able to maintain the restaurant’s high standard until her death in 1986.

When Fernand Point started his culinary career, the classic French cuisine was still en vogue, based on Auguste Escoffier. However, Fernand Point seeked change. He revolutionized the traditional French high cuisine by purifying and simplifying it. His modern approach was well received. Soon, La Pyramide became an obligatory stop for Europe’s great families on the Route Nationale 7, the vacation route between Paris and the border with Italy.

His peers called him the king. Paul Bocuse, Alain Chapel or Jean and Pierre Troisgros among others were his apprentices. During his reign over French cuisine there were few important celebrities and serious gourmets who did not make the journey to have dinner at La Pyramide. To this day, this restaurant has been the only one holding three Michelin stars for 53 years!

About Patrick Henriroux Hotel la Pyramide Vienne

After Fernand Point’s wife passed away, their adopted daughter sold the property to an estate company (in 1988), which started a renovation project. They added a 23-bedroom hotel, a new restaurant space, a garden and a covered terrace. And they were looking for a new chef, too. Several ones refused, save an upcoming young chef from the south of France, Patrick Henriroux. He did make a name for himself at Restaurant La Ferme de Mougins near Cannes, where he got a Michelin star.

He started in Vienne in 1989. Seven months later, he got his first Michelin star. In 1992, he earned his second one, which he has been holding ever since. In 1998, Patrick Henriroux and his wife Pascale got the chance to purchase the property and went for it. A year later, the hotel and restaurant became a member of the prestigious Relais & Châteaux hotel group. Standing still is not the couple’s thing. The restaurant has received two facelifts since they bought it. And they opened a casual bistro on the premises, l’Espace PH3. Two of their three children also work in the family business, Leslie Henriroux-Rineau as front office manager and Boris Henriroux as assistant general manager.

As to Patrick Henriroux’s background, he is the son of dairy farmers. In his childhood, he was a great fan of his grandmother’s cooking skills. After finishing hotel school, he worked under several of France’s leading chefs, most notably Georges Blanc. When he came to La Pyramide, he did not want this restaurant going like some sort of museum. Quite the opposite, he did change and evolve on a constant basis. His cooking style is contemporary yet without denying its roots in the traditional French cuisine. The food he prepares is complex, the platings are elaborate and the flavors are authentic. And he makes use of the Rhône valley’s bounty. And of course, you get here also the fine wines from the region.

Trip itinerary northern Italy & southern France

Our 11-day journey through northern Italy and southern France brought us not only to many great hotels but also to such restaurants. When traveling, my husband and I like staying at luxury lodging and dining at gourmet spots. While we do not aim to chase Michelin stars at any price, it usually results in nothing different than counting them at the end of a trip (there were seven this time). It seems we are gourmet travelers who cannot be helped any other way. And it became worse during the pandemic, confined to exploring more or less our backyards. Be it as is may, now to our itinierary. Please note that – despite an occasional splurge – we make sure that we get value for money. We try to avoid paying excessive prices.

We started in northern Italy in the Lake Orta region, near the Swiss border, with staying and dining at Villa Crespi (two Michelin stars, my posts about hotel and activities).

Then we went south, first to Piedmont’s wine region around Alba (Relais San Maurizio, one Michelin star, accommodation/things to do), then to Alassio on the Italian Riviera (Villa della Pergola, one Michelin star, my report plus what do do in the area). After passing the border to France, we stayed at Château Saint-Martin in the French Rivera hills (one Michelin star, hotel/activities). Before we came to Vienne south of Lyon, we had one more halt in the Provence near Les Baux-de-Provence. Here we settled for a relaxed boutique hotel (Hotel B Design with Nancy Bourguignon Restaurant), see my post about it and things to do here.

Staying in style at Patrick Henriroux Hotel La Pyramide Vienne

Location

As mentioned, you find Patrick Henriroux Hotel La Pyramide in Vienne, some 30 km/18 mi south of Lyon, in southeastern France. You reach it by car in about 25 minutes, by train in about 19 minutes from the country’s second largest city. The town is in the Rhône valley on the “Route du Midi” (route to the south), along the famous Route Nationale 7.

Hotel La Pyramide is located south of Vienna’s town center. You get to the latter in a 7-minute-walk. And it is well worth doing this, especially to have a look at the town’s rich historical heritage from Roman times. Do not miss the Roman Temple

or the Roman Theater.

Yet you do not have to go far to see one of the major monuments in this respect. The Roman Pyramid is just in front of Hotel La Pyramide. At the time, it marked the turn of a chariot racetrack. And of course the restaurant/hotel is named after it.

As to its situation, it is set in a residential neighborhood. From its look, it is a small country house in a quiet garden behind a high wall, as it has been for over a hundred years.

Rooms/Pricing

On offer here are 19 rooms, completely renovated in 2005, or 4 apartments. As to the rooms, you can book a Deluxe Room (30 sqm), either with Garden View or without. Rates start from 200 € (without Garden View) resp. 215 € (with Garden View). Apartments are available from 360 € (Standard Apartment, 50 sqm) resp. 400 € (Deluxe Apartment, 50 sqm).

My husband and I went for a Deluxe Room Twin with a Shower,

which cost us 314 € at the beginning of September, midweek. We also opted for the breakfast (30 € per person), which was delicious.

Everything was served and of exceptional quality. While our room was not really spacious, it was cleverly furnished. We had the impression of being in a larger accommodation than the advertised 30 sqm. It was well appointed in a contemporary style and equipped with everything you need for an overnight stay. There was even a sweet treat for us to indulge in. With regard to the bathroom, it was sizable with double sinks and a large shower.

I found the cost–benefit ratio at Hotel Pyramide very favorable!

Ambiance/Staff

Upon arrival, we were cared for by kind and attentive staff. A nice lady (Leslie Henriroux-Rineau?) directed us in the parking lot and accompanied us to the reception area where we got all the necessary information. When we were having a look around on the premises later – the garden is nice – , everyone we met was friendly and helpful. The same was true for our dinner. We were cordially welcomed and seated on the lovely terrace. And here we enjoyed a service that was excellent from start to finish.

The ambiance at Hotel Patrick Henriroux’s La Pyramide was relaxed and unpretentious, throughout our stay. And this cannot be taken for granted in France where upscale dining spots quite often tend to be somewhat stuffy.

Facilities/Restaurants

While La Pyramide has everything for a pleasant short stay, it is not the place with lots of facilities. First and foremost, you come here for the good food. There is a pleasant garden where you can take a few steps, that is it.

I have read about the opportunity to use a nearby fitness room under the website’s section of special offers, but there was no mention of it on our stay. When it comes to restaurants however, you can choose among two of them.

On the one hand, there is the signature dining-spot, the gastronomic Restaurant La Pyramide with Patrick Henriroux’s two-star Michelin cuisine on offer. Find below more details. On the other hand, there is the casual Espace PH3 Bistro,

which was opened in 2009. Here is everything about the number Three, three starters, three main courses, three desserts etc. I liked the style here (we only had breakfast here), it is modern and playful at the same time. And its outdoor area is great, the tables are scattered in the large garden.

After outlining what you can expect in terms of staying at La Pyramide, now to the dinner experience at Patrick Henriroux’s La Pyramide.

Dining in style at Patrick Henriroux 2-star Michelin Restaurant La Pyramide Vienne

Before coming to the food, some words to the setting here. When my husband and I dined here, the weather was nice and hot, so we could eat outside on the pleasant covered terrace.

We were lead through the interior restaurant to reach the outdoor area but I have no picture of it. It is kept contemporary in black, grey and yellow. While the walls, curtains, floor and a part of the chairs are dark, some of the the latter are upholstered in yellow. And the water glasses and some other things are yellow, too. For my taste, I found it a bit on the dark side and slightly bizarre, but it is original for sure. As to the terrace, it is modern, too. They left the beautiful trees but installed a concrete slab floor around them. For me, it is a bit cold. And again, you find the colors of black and yellow here.

Now to the food we had.

Colors-Smells-Flavors Pyramide (3 to 5 courses, 159 to 189 €)

When we dined here on a Monday evening, there was a seven-course tasting menu on offer. You could make your choice out of either five, six or seven courses (159, 176 or 189 €), which – I found – was price wise appropriate. And a cheese selection from a cart and a dessert were an integral part of it.

My husband and I opted for the five-course option. Already when we got the snacks, we knew we were in for a treat!

And that was confirmed when getting the first course, a huge piece of foie gras confit en lobe. There was a transparent cover, made with strawberry juices. And it was paired with blackcurrant puree and a brioche.

Next was a fish course that came in two parts. Frist, there was a monk fish, roasted with semi-salted butter and accompanied by young leek.

Second, we got a mussel from the Bretagne in unison with cream from Etrez in the Bresse region.

Superb!

Before the main dish, we were treated to a surprise course. It was a creamy creation made of goat cheese and tomato,

if I am right.

We proceeded with lamb that stemmed from a registered trademark (Allaiton from Aveyron),

and it was grandiose! It came as a roulade and as a ball. The latter was made of the thinly sliced shoulder part. The meat came in a combination with chickpeas, aromatized with lemon and peppers, and sheep’s yoghurt with green harissa.

Then it was time for cheese! And the cheese selection from the cart

was really impressive, everything from the region!

For dessert, they brought us a separate menu with four propositions in the two categories of “Chocolate” and “Fruits”. And for the interested guests, also the names of the two head patissiers appeared, Anthony Fresnay and Taïra Kawamura. Everything sounded promising, from the Chocolate Piano (new generation, dark and gold sorbet, toasted coffee sauce) to the Rhubarb (au natural, cooked and raw, crystallized violet petal and red shiso yogurt emulsion). My husband and I chose Chocolat Macaé, a dark chocolate soufflé in a sable tartlet and with cream d’Etrez, paired with a cocoa bean juice sorbet. It was heavenly!

The feast was rounded up with two series of petit fours.

The bottom line is simple, it was definitely the best meal of our Italy and France journey!

Overall Patrick Henriroux Hotel La Pyramide Vienne

If you are serious gourmet and look for the ideal stopover halfway between Paris and the French Riviera, then Patrick Henriroux Hotel La Pyramide Vienne is the perfect choice. It is located south of Lyon just off the north/south highway, the famous Route Nationale 7.

You find here not only a foodie destination, the two-Michelin starred La Pyramide Restaurant, but also super friendly hosts. In addition, there are comfortable, modernly furnished guest rooms, reasonably rated, at your disposal. If you are into the mood of a lighter, less formal dinner, then maybe opt for the casual bistro on the premises.

And while enjoying your meal in either of those places, let your thoughts wander to the time when the legendary chef Fernand Point was in charge here. He is regarded as one of the fathers of the French nouvelle cuisine and established at this very spot one of France’s greatest restaurants ever.

Looking back and forward

This is the last of of 11 posts about a 11-day trip that my husband and I took in northern Italy and southern France. This journey brought us not only to the Italian regions of Piedmont and Liguria, followed by the French Riviera and the Provence, but also to some of the best luxury hotels and Michelin star restaurants in these areas. While it was not our primary goal to dine at as many Michelin starred dining-spots as possible, we managed – to our amazement – seven Michelin stars in total!

What is next in terms of travel? After this first longer trip abroad to Italy and France, my husband and I boarded an airplane again after a Corona imposed time out of two years! And it was due to Madeira, Portugal’s island in the North Atlantic Ocean off the African coast.

I will report about this place in general before going into where to head here for staying and dining in style.

Date of stay: September 2021

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Update: new chef Giorgio Pignagnoli at Restaurant Nove as from spring 2022

Nowadays, foreign travelers head to the Ligurian hotspots as the Cinque Terre or Portofino, east of Genoa. Alassio, a seaside town in the opposite direction, is usually not on their program. This is a pity, then the area has a lot to offer. And, not least, this is about Villa della Pergola Alassio, a luxury boutique hotel above the town center. It is a great place for staying and dining in style, boasting beautiful sea views, individually styled rooms and the one-star Michelin Restaurant Nove. Plus the  luxury hotel is in a beautiful historic mansion and amidst a stunning botanical garden.

Find in the following more about the stay my husband and I had here on our recent road trip through the north of Italy and the south of France. Alassio was our third stop, after two in Piedmont (post about Relais San Maurizio near Alba and post about Villa Crespi on Lake Orta).

Journey through northern Italy & southern France

As outlined, we started in Italy’s northwest, the Piedmont, before coming to Liguria, one of Italy’s smallest regions. This coastal area – also called Italian Riviera – is famous for its Cinque Terre. But it has more – lesser known – treasures. It borders France and for us as Swiss it makes a lot of sense to return via this country. And that was actually what we did. We opted for two places on the Côte d’Azur resp. in the Provence before going back to Switzerland via Lyon. Here we spent one last night at a foodie spot in the south of France’s third largest city.

After this overview here are the details to our choice of hotel in Liguria, Villa della Pergola Alassio.

Staying in style at Villa della Pergola Alassio

Location

I have already given some hints, here is the gist … Villa della Pergola Alassio is in the pine-covered hills above Alassio. You can reach the town center in a walk of just ten minutes. From here you have wonderful views of the Ligurian Sea resp. the Italian Riviera.

And you are in the middle of the Giardini di Villa della Pergola, the historical botanic gardens. They stem from the late 19th century and on 22,000 sqm you find some rare collections, for instance 34 varieties of Wisteria or 500 of Agapanthus.

The only fly in the ointment is the fact that it is no easy drive up from Alassio’s town center to the Villa della Pergola Alassio. There is a very narrow, windy driveway that made my husband drive back and forth to get round the corners. So, do not come here with a big car!

The seafront resort of Alassio is located on the “wrong side” of Genoa. At least you get this impression if you watch the streams of international travelers that all go to the east towards Portofino or the Cinque Terre. For Alassio you have to head west. You reach this town in a bit more than an hour by car. Alternatively, you can take the train, for which you need about the same time. Another good starting point to get to Alassio is from Nice (France). This will take you 1h 15min by car and 2h 15min by train (change trains in Ventimiglia).

About the seafront resort of Alassio

You should know by now that Alassio is a place a bit forgotten by international travel. This was quite different in the late 19th century. At the time, rich British people liked to winter on the Mediterranean. At certain times, more than 5,000 Britons spent their winters here. They built villas in the pine-covered hills above Alassio, one of them is Villa della Pergola. Later on, how it is, they moved on, away from this lovely beach town.

Nowadays, Alassio is a popular place for Italian vacation takers in summer. It is known for having one of the longest sandy beaches in eastern Liguria. It is ideal for children as the beach gently slopes into the sea. This seaside resort is a good choice for families as it is less posh than its French counterparts beyond the nearby border.

Besides from being a beach town, Alassio has also a lively town center. Parallel to the beach and in its immediate proximity, there is Via XX September, a pleasant shopping street, called the Budello. It is framed by typically Ligurian terracotta and green-shuttered ochre houses.

In July and August, Alassio is full of Italian vacation takers. When you come here in September, you will still catch the heat but miss the crowds. That does not mean it is deserted, on the contrary. There are still lots of beach-goers but it is far from being over-crowded. I found it pleasant in early September and I usually mind large gatherings of people.

While my husband and I came here for the sea, we were not interested in lying on the beach. We were drawn here because of Villa della Pergola Alassio, with the prospect of staying and dining in style as well as exploring the area, mostly on foot.

History of Villa della Pergola Alassio

I already mentioned that Villa della Pergola Alassio was one of the posh houses that the Britons used for wintering in the late 19th century. The villa was built in 1880 by a Scotsman, General McMurdo, after having a military career in India.

The model for its construction were houses that officials of the British Empire constructed in India at the time. The first thing that attracts your attention is the dome clad in polychrome majolica from Albisola.

But also the grand staircase made of white marble is an eye-catcher.

The design of the park was the work of the McMurdo family, too.

In 1900, Sir Walter Hamilton Dalrymple, Virgina Woolf’s cousin, acquired the property. 22 years later, Daniel Hanbury, a son of Sir Thomas Hanbury, who established the famous Hanbury botanical  gardens in Ventimiglia, became the new owner of the Villa della Pergola. And he made the gardens flourish.

In the early 2000s, after years of dereliction, it looked like the 22 hectares estate was destined to speculation. Luckily, a group of Ligurian friends around the television producer Antoni Ricci purchased the villa and the gardens. After a restoration they turned Villa della Pergola Alassio into a five-star hotel.

Ambiance/Staff

We felt transported to another time when coming here, looking at this eclectic villa with its luxuriant gardens. Victorian and Edwardian paintings, memorabilia and antiquities made us experience the late 19th century taste and atmosphere. Yet all this comes without feeling antiquated. It is a serene place where history and nature meet subdued luxury. And the estate is close enough to the sea yet far away from the crowds of the beach-front resorts.

My husband and I were warmly welcomed by the maître de maison, Nadia Finelli, who introduced us not only to the property but also let us know about great things to do in the area. Other staff we met during our stay was attentive, helpful and discreet. We felt well at ease, everywhere on the premises and at all times on our stay.

Only lately, Villa della Pergola became a member of the renown Relais & Châteaux luxury hotel group – what I find fits very well.

Rooms/Pricing

You find here 15 rooms in three separate villas: six at the Villa (main house), another six at the Villino and three at Casa Wisteria. While the Villa is a mixtures of styles,

the Villino seems definitely to be a British colonial building. As to the Casa Wistery, it used to be the gardener’s house. There also is La Casa del Sole, an independent apartment on two floors. Every accommodation is called after the name of either a previous owner or a (famous) guest.

All the rooms at Villa della Pergola Alassio have parquet floors and marbled bathrooms in period style. Each is different from each other. Many of them boast verandas and sea views, too.

There are three room categories, Standard Room (from about 280€/US$), Superior Room (from about 410€/US$) or Suite with Sea View (from about 690€/US$). The rates are according to Villa della Pergola’s website (the least expensive ones for 2022). The hotel is closed during the winter season.

Superior Room “Walter”

My husband and I had a room in the main house, the Superior Room called Walter.

It is one of the accommodations with these grandiose views of the Gulf of Alassio. From the room’s look, it seems to be some kind of Edwardian gentleman’s bachelor pad with antique golf clubs and antiquarian prints.

It is spacious (56 sqm) and comes with a bathroom featuring a shower only

and a patio. The latter is Walter’s best feature. It is expansive and offers table, chairs and sun loungers. Sitting here, gazing at the sea and watching how the town of Alassio to your feet awakens and goes to sleep is one of the things that will stay in my memory.

When it comes to the room price we paid for our stay at the end of August/beginning of September 2021, it was 520€ with breakfast. As to the latter, you could make your choice from an varied buffet. For the ones with a sweet tooth, the cakes are excellent!

Other facilities

As mentioned several times already, there is a gorgeous 22,000 sqm botanical garden on site. After saving it from property speculation in the early 2000s, the buyers asked the landscape designer Paolo Pejrone to restore it. This was no easy duty as it is a terraced park. After decades of neglect many of the stone walls were damaged and had to be stabilized. Debris and weeds needed removing. They had to install an irrigation system. And last but not least, the park’s visual character had to be established.   Some changes were necessary yet the origins should be kept. And the result? I am no expert in this field, but I am fond of botanical gardens, and this one is definitely a jewel. You could spend hours walking around and gazing in wonder at all this beauty. It is open to the public, too, for guided tours only.

In addition to the gorgeous gardens, you find here an outdoor swimming pool.

There is a bicycle rental service (electric bicycles) on site. And if you like reading, go to the library with lots of books and magazines.

To my knowledge, there is no spa.

Dining in style at Restaurant Nove at Villa della Pergola Alassio

Another reason to come to Villa della Pergola Alassio apart from staying is style is its Michelin one-star Restaurant Nove. My husband and I had dinner here on both our evenings and were satisfied with what we got.

If you have luck with the weather as we had, you can have your meal outside on the splendid terrace overlooking the Ligurian sea. This setting is hard to beat!

Before coming to our dinner experience, a few remarks to the chef and his cuisine.

Chef & cuisine at Restaurant Nove

The chef here is a local, Giorgo Servetto, born in nearby Savona. His parents had a farm in Palo between the mountains and the sea. He grew up in daily contact with the land and the farm animals, which made him getting to know and appreciate real, genuine products.

He had his own restaurant in Alassio from 2005 to 2010. Later on, he worked at Restaurant La Locanda dell’Asino in Alassio, a Michelin starred establishment, before getting hired at the newly opened Restaurant Nove in 2016.

His cuisine is a Ligurian one, although not a strictly traditional one but a contemporary version of it.

Almost all the products he uses at Nove stem from local suppliers. Giorgo Servetto is very much into simple, pure tastes. He wants his guests to being able to recognize each ingredient in his dishes. And of course, the chef and his team make use of the herbs, citrus fruits

and the edible flowers growing at the botanical gardens.

In 2021, Restaurant Nove received a Michelin star, which has been confirmed only recently for the following year.

Dinner experience at Restaurant Nove

As mentioned, I had dinner here on two days in a row. And this is no repetitive affair as there are three tasting menus to choose from plus an a la carte menu.

On our first day, we opted for the Orgoglio Ligure tasting menu. The expression means Liguria’s pride. And consequently, the menu showcases traditional Ligurian dishes, newly interpreted. The next day, we chose the Ossessione tasting menu. The English translation is easy to guess, obsession, and it is the vegetarian menu.

The Nove is only open in the summer season. It is closed on Tuesdays except in July and August.

1. Tasting menu “Orgoglio Ligure”

Liguria’s pride, 9 courses, 85 €

You find here pictures and explanations to three courses. I start with the second one, called “a çimma”. This is a stuffed veal breast. I vividly remember this dish from meals at my grandma. She used to prepare it for a special occasion, and I always found the meat too fatty. Of course, the chef prepares it differently. His take on it is much more refined and pretty to look at.

Next is the fourth course, anchovies and potatoes. The combination of these two ingredients seems to be quite popular in Liguria. And anchovies are apparently the most commonly served fish in this region. I have to admit that I cannot remember what was lying below the oversized cracker as the content spilled on my clothes when I tackled the cover.

Then I do not want to withhold the pasta dish from you, named “u tuccu”, the menu’s fifth course. Of course, I had no idea what this was going to be (as with “A çimma”). It is a meat sauce that is served to fresh pasta and ravioli. Ligurians also call it ragù Genovese. You might know ragù Bolognaise where the meat is minced. With “U tuccu” the meat is left whole. Here at Nove, it was served with ravioli.

2. Tasting menu “Ossessione” 

Vegeterian menu, 8 courses, 95€

Again I focus on three courses starting with the menu’s third one, tomato and bread. It was an exemplary tomato, artistically seen. As to the filling, it was some sort of tomato cream that reminded me strongly of pure tomato puree.

Course number five was a minestrone alla Genovese. According to the server it consisted of at least 25 different vegetables! Here in Liguria they typically use more herbs (especially pesto) than in other Italian regions to make this thick soup.

The last course of the Obsession menu was again a picture perfect item, this time a lemon. It looked deceptively real. But, surprise, surprise, we discovered that it was filled with chocolate cream!

How was it?

I have given the dinner experience at Restaurant Nove a lot of thought. Without any doubt, the chef is talented. He is creative and knows a lot about presenting dishes in an artistic way. I would even call Giorgo Servetto as some kind of food architect. And he makes full use of the best Liguria and nearby regions have to offer.

As we dined at quite a number of Michelin starred restaurants on our Italy and France trip, I had some comparative standard. While I was not really unsatisfied with the two dinners at Nove, they were – compared to the other awarded dining-spots we visited – my least favorite.

But why was that? Some of the dishes did not quite work for me flavor-wise. While they were not exactly bland, they lacked a certain complexity. An example for this was the tomato and bread creation. I had the impression to eat pure tomato puree, and this not only in a small quantity, but the whole dish consisted of it. To the keyword “puree”, there were too many of them, in my opinion, especially in the vegetarian menu. For me, the textures have to be balanced. There must not be too many soft or mushy parts, a dish needs enough crunchy or crispy items, too.

One more remark, and this to the pricing. I found Restaurant Nove offers good value for money. It is not given to Michelin starred restaurants to have tasting menus that cost less than 100€.

Overall

There are not many places to stay and dine in style on the Ligurian coast west of Genoa. Therefore, I was pleased to having found Villa della Pergola Alassio, a storybook historic luxury hotel. And it also boasts a gourmet restaurant, the Michelin starred Restaurant Nove. The property is located amidst wonderful botanic gardens above the quiet seaside resort of Alassio, which you reach in a short walk. There is lots to do in the region apart from beachgoing. For some ideas what to do here, especially if you like walking, my next blogpost will go into this.

Looking back and forward

The stay at Villa della Pergola Alassio was the third one of a journey my husband and I undertook in northern Italy and south of France (here is the itinerary). We started the trip in Piedmont. Here we spent two days each on Lake Orta in Italy’s north (check out how it was at Villa Crespi and what to do in the area) and near Alba amidst vineyards (here are the details to staying at Relais San Maurizio and about nearby activities).

Next on the list after Alassio was the adjoining France. Here we made two stops in the country’s south (French Rivera hills – hotel, what to do – and Provence) before going back to Switzerland. And we did this not without making one last halt, and that was in a town south of Lyon.

Date of stay: September 2021

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UPDATE: Villa Crespi Restaurant received its third Michelin star in November 2022!

Hotel Villa Crespi truly is an eye-catcher! Its Moorish styled building is unique and its location on peaceful Lake Orta in northern Italy is idyllic. The 14-room luxury hotel with its two-star Michelin restaurant can convince discerning travelers and demanding foodies likewise! And the staff here is incredible. Whenever you show up in the reception area, you can be sure of their gracious assistance. And Villa Crespi Lake Orta is located in the stunning village of Orta San Giulio, one of the most beautiful ones in Italy.

Find in the following how it is staying and dining at this gem of accommodation in the country’s Lake District near to the Swiss border. Before coming to this, a few lines to the recent road trip through the north of Italy and the south of France that my husband and I did – where this stay at Villa Crespi Lake Orta was the start.

Trip itinerary northern Italy & southern France

Starting in Switzerland, our home country, we visited parts of northern Italy and southern France. As you know by now, we began in the Lake Orta region near Switzerland before moving to the Piedmont’s heart. The next stop was the Ligurian coast west of Genua before crossing the boarder to France. Here we stayed at two spots in the Côte d’Azur/Provence area. Before returning, we also made a halt south of Lyon, one of France’s major cities.

Always when traveling, we like to do this in style. We pick out the best luxury lodging and gourmet dining whenever possible, but only if they are worth the money spent. And we like to explore an area by foot yet we are not hard-core hikers. As to our recent Italy and French trip, you find the 11-day itinerary here (in my overview blogpost).

Now to Villa Crespi Lake Orta, where all began …

Staying in style at Villa Crespi Lake Orta, northern Italy

Location

I already gave some hints as to the luxury hotel’s situation (Italy’s Lake District in the country’s north on Lake Orta). It is located south of the Alps and north of the Po river plain. Here you encounter a group of large cold mountain lakes – actually glacial ones. The Italian Lakes region features a sub-Mediterranean climate with mild temperatures and fairly sunny weather all year round. And imagine, it has been a preferred travel destination since Roman times!

Lake Orta is one of the smaller and lesser known lakes in the area. I would not exactly call it a hidden gem, but almost. It definitely is off the beaten path by international travelers. However, it is quite popular with Italians, especially the Milanesi. And how to reach it? From Switzerland, you get to it in 1h 11min from Locarno and in 1h 18min from Lugano by car. Train and bus are no viable options here. From Milan/Italy you need 1h 4min by car (from the international airport Milan-Malpensa only 49min) and 2h 29min by train (change trains in Novara).

As to the situation on site, Villa Crespi Lake Orta is located just above the historic village center of Orta San Giulio. As pointed out, this is an extraordinarily beautiful place. From the hotel you have twelve minutes by foot to the main piazza, which is not accessible by car. Please take into account that Villa Crespi is not directly on the lake. As to views, best ones are toward the lake of course, but you do not see much of it as the area is overgrown by trees. The rooms with lake view are also the quietest ones, given the fact that the hotel is quite close to a busy road.

History of Villa Crespi Lake Orta

You know by now that Villa Crespi was constructed in the Moorish style. A local businessman, Cristoforo Benigno Crespi, had become rich in the cotton industry. In 1879, he asked an architect from the area to build his new family home. On his business trips to the Middle East he had fallen in love with the local architecture. Therefore, the successful entrepreneur wanted to have a villa that made him remember this kind of style. The commissioned architect, Angelo Colla, was given free rein to create a building in this sense. And the result was – after 30 years of construction –  an eclectic Moorish treasure!

Villa Crespi Lake Orta is for sure a unique piece of art. You can not help but be fascinated by the domes of intertwined arches, the arabesque decorations of stucco and molded plasters, the marble columns …

The villa has seen different owners over time. In 1999, Cinzia and Antonino Cannavacciuolo took over and turned this fairytale gem into a luxury hotel and gourmet temple. Since 2012, Villa Crespi has been a member of the prestigious Relais & Château hotel group.

Ambiance/Service

We loved being at the Villa Crespi because we were well taken care of here. Upon arrival, we were amiably welcomed by the doorman/concierge. The reception by the other staff at the desk was also utterly warm. And this despite the fact that it was Friday lunch time and the house full of restaurant guests!

As I already let you know in the introduction, every time we appeared in the reception area we were treated like royalty. Furthermore, the atmosphere here is very Italian. On our two-day stay, there were lots of Italian guests, quite in contrast to the rest of our trip where we met many foreign travelers at the hotels of our choice.

There is one more thing that stood out. We had a package booked here (more later on), and we did tell the hotel before our arrival that we would not do one of the activities included. And to our astonishment, they reimbursed it. We had not expected such a generous gesture!

Also the service in the restaurant knew to persuade. Staff was cordial, attentive and informative. Having said this, there was one issue to mention that I consider as “typically Italian”.

The “Italian way”

Always when being in Italy, I have the feeling that foreigners are “second class guests”, more than in any other countries. It was the same thing here, although it was not too pronounced. I tend to be a bit on the sensitive side at times …

You must know that there are several dining rooms. There is the “signature place” where they give preference to local regulars, I assume.

We had dinner at Villa Crespi twice (on a weekend) and were not seated here. Yet we also did not ask for it … To this dining room in question, there is a row of tables, each with its own window that can be opened individually. And it is directed towards the lake, albeit there is not much of a lake view. “Our” dining room was not bad at all. We liked dining here, but I could not help noticing the difference!

Rooms/Pricing Villa Crespi Lake Orta

Each of the 14 rooms at Villa Crespi Lake Orta have splendid parquet floors and elegant 19th century furniture. And of course they feature the one or other arabesque touch (windows and doors). The bathrooms are clad in marble. While the lower floors have larger rooms, the ones on the upper floors are smaller (former staff accommodations).

Rooms vary in size (some are in the former servants’ quarters), but all seem to be comfortable and attractive. First to the suites, which all have views of garden and lake, except the Junior Suites (garden view). The most expensive ones are the two Master Suites, both 51 sqm in size, starting from 806 SFR/US$. Then you have two Premium Suites, 47 sqm each, that cost from 774 SFR/US$. Two more suites are available, the Executive Suites, with a surface of 38 sqm, bookable from 699 SFR/US$. To end the suite category, there are two Junior Suites, covering 29 sqm, available from 537 SFR/US$.

As to the rooms, there are two categories, the Deluxe Rooms (2 units, garden view) and the Classic Rooms (4 units, partial lake view). The former, 26 sqm in size, starts from 430 SFR/US$, the latter, 24 sqm, costs from 376 SFR/US$.

On the time of our booking there were only two rooms available, one of the larger suites and one Deluxe Room. We opted for the latter but decided to splurge on dining instead. Before coming to the food, some details to our room and to the other facilities on site.

Deluxe Room

Our room was the one called Isdihar, decorated with imperial red silk. It is located on the second floor with view of the gardens. While this accommodation is not overly large (26 sqm), it is cleverly furnished.

We never had the impression to house in cramped spaces. The bathroom is quite spacious and features a window. However, the shower is a bit on the small side.

The Isdihar room is directed towards south-east, meaning parallel to the busy road from Domodossola to Novara. While it is not directly situated next to the hotel, you clearly hear the passing trucks and motorbikes. There is air-conditioning, albeit not a very effective one. Therefore, my husband and I slept with open windows, which was perfect for us at the time. However, it might not be an option in the hot season.

A delightful breakfast – served in the outdoor restaurant on our stay – is included in the rate.

And every day, a small sweet treat awaits you in the room.

Other facilities/Sister hotel Laqua

Villa Crespi Lake Orta is a place for those who are into dining and staying in style. And it is a great destination to explore the wonderful village of Orta San Giulio and the Lake Orta area. However, you probably will not be satisfied in case you are looking for state-of-the-art facilities. After all, it is a boutique property and does not feature that many amenities. There is a bar,

a wellness suite and gardens with some sun loungers,

that is it.

There is no swimming pool, fitness room or lake access. If you want to swim in the lake, there is public lake access nearby. All in all, come here if you want to enjoy the hotel’s excellent cuisine and beautiful surroundings.

If you care being by the water, consider staying at the new sister hotel Laqua by the Lake (as from July 2021), 3 km/1.9 mi from Villa Crespi. Here you find a pool and a beach club as well as a restaurant along with 18 apartments.

Packages

You can make use of a variety of packages here, either for one, two or three nights. My husband and I opted for the two-night package “Lovers of good food”, which was great. Find more info in the next chapter.

Some of the special offers include one or several dinners at the Villa Crespi or also at the chef’s new bistro Laqua by the Lake, five minutes away by car. You may attend a cooking experience with the brigade of Villa Crespi or get treated to a wellness treatment, too. The choice is yours!

Dining in style at Restaurant Villa Crespi Lake Orta, northern Italy

Before coming to our dining experience at chef Antonino Cannavacciuolo’s two-star Michelin restaurant, some details to the “Lovers of good food” package that my husband and I had booked for our stay at Villa Crespi Lake Orta. And there will also be some info about the chef and his cuisine. As to the dining facilities, I have already looked into it under the section of The “Italian way”.

Package “Lovers of good food”

These two-night package includes the room of your choice, the à la carte breakfast, a glass of Prosecco on arrival

and two dinners at the chef’s two-star Michelin restaurant. One one evening, you get the Carpe Diem tasting menu (six courses, 170 €/per person). On the other evening, you are served the South to North of Italy tasting menu (7 courses, 200 €/per person). Furthermore, you may visit the kitchen once after your dinner. Finally, a visit to a nearby cellar plus wine tasting is part of the package (30 minutes away, private transfer included).

This arrangement did cost 1,999 € for two days, and this at a Deluxe Room (the second least expensive room category). But they were so kind to reduce the amount by 100 € as we had informed them well in advance that we would not do the cellar visit. This package is no bargain, but there is nothing wrong with the pricing. It is absolutely worth spending if you are a foodie!

Chef

The chef, Antonino Cannavacciuolo, is a native from the area around Naples in southern Italy. More precisely, he was born and grew up in the heart of the Sorrento Peninsula, in Ticciano, in a hamlet in the hills close to Vico Equense. His father was a chef, and little Antonino never wanted to be something other than a chef too.

He studied at the catering college in Vico Equense, where his father was a tutor. After finishing it, he gained experience at local restaurants where he cooked the traditional food from the region. Later, he worked at the famous Auberge de I’Ill in eastern France under the aegis of Paul Haeberlin. Back in his homeland, he spent some time at Grand Hotel Quisisana in Capri.

Then he went to northern Italy to work at a hotel restaurant in the Lake Orta region. That is where he met his future wife, Cinzia, the daughter of the hotel’s owners. And he has been here ever since, as from 1999 at Villa Crespi Lake Orta.

Cuisine

While Antonino Cannavacciuolo is deeply rooted in his beloved Neapolitan territory in his cooking, he also began to integrate the traditions of the Piedmont, his adopted homeland. He describes his cuisine as a fusion of his past and his present, of the south and the north. He does not consider himself as an innovator but he strives to bring the flavors of tradition in a new form. Yet he tries to do this without losing sight of neither the old nor the new.

In 2003, chef Antonino was awarded his first Michelin star, the second followed in 2006. And he also became a celebrity master chef on the Italian television. In addition, he opened several other restaurants and shops in northern Italy, amongst them Bistrot Cannavacciuolo in Turin, where my husband and I dined in 2019 (here my post).

After this information on chef and cuisine, now to how it was dining at Villa Crespi Lake Orta.

Dinner experience at Villa Crespi Lake Orta

Here are my highlights of the two tastings menus my husband and I had at Restaurant Villa Crespi Lake Orta. For the sake of clarity, I restrain myself to three courses each.

Before coming to the actual courses, here are pictures from the snacks that started the meal

and the petit fours

that ended the culinary journey on both evenings. They were among the most delicious I have ever tasted. It was just a pity that the sweet end was a bit on the large side. I was not able to eat all of the delicacies, neither on day one nor on day two, to my regret.

1. Carpe Diem tasting menu (six courses, 170 €/per person)

After an amuse bouche we were served breaded amberjack fish with watercress and strawberries. This actually was a roll filled with raw fish aromatized with vegetable and fruit, a successful pairing.

Right afterwards it was time for pasta. Plin, small filled pasta (agnolotti, similar to ravioli), were combined with duck. The filling consisted of duck, and there was foie-gras soup to accompany it. Buffalo milk and some subtle raspberry flavor made it complete. This dish was an absolute hit, each element balanced each other out perfectly!

Next was the main, you could make a choice between turbot or suckling pig. We went for the fish, which was nice but the combination with shellfish made it not a favorite of mine.

Then it was time for sweets … The start made a pre dessert, ice cream on a stick. This was followed by a deconstructed Pastiera Napoletana. This is a a Neapolitan tart made with cooked wheat (grano cotto), ricotta cheese, eggs and flavored with orange flower water, which is typically served on Easter. What an amazing combination of tastes, textures and flavors!

2. South to North of Italy tasting menu (7 courses, 200 €/per person)

This is Antonino Cannavacciuolo’s signature menu where he brings the two Italian regions of Piedmont and Campania together.

First came an amuse bouche, then one of the chef’s famous creations, Sicilian scampi “pizzaiola” style with octopus water. This was an eye-catcher and a gourmet treat likewise.

And the pasta course was out–of–this–world amazing again! Gragnano’s linguine – simply the best pasta, made near Naples – were paired with squid and rye bread sauce. Every single bit was scrumptious and made my tastebuds sing. The server explained to us that they cook the pasta only half and then add spoonfuls of sauce little by little (similar to a risotto).

Next was the fish course. It equally pleased the eye and the stomach. It was a perfect blend of red mullet, zucchine alla Scapece and Provola cheese broth. If you wonder about the “Scapece”, this is a typical Neapolitan dish. You fry zucchini first and then marinate them with a mix of vinegar, garlic and fresh mint.

The main course was pigeon, the chef’s star ingredient. While it was of immaculate quality and preparation, the course was a bit too “meat dominated” in my opinion – and I was pretty full at that time.

The feast was rounded up with a chocolate ball, gold decorated, followed by the chef’s version of panna cotta.

After the meal my husband and I were allowed for a visit to the spacious kitchen in the villa’s basement. What a great thing to experience the hustle and bustle here with 20 to 22 chefs at work – although I did not catch sight of chef Antonino himself!

Overall

My husband and I began our late summer trip (see overview post) in Orta San Giulio in the Lake Orta region in Italy’s Lake District in the country’s north. You reach the beautiful village in a bit more than an hour by car either from Locarno/Lugano in Switzerland or from Milan.

We came here to get to know a region that was new to us. At the same time, we wanted to try out Villa Crespi Lake Orta, a luxury hotel and foodie paradise (two-star Michelin cuisine). And we fell in love with both, the area and the lodging! We not only had a unique experience in an atmosphere reminiscent of a Thousand and One Nights (the hotel is kept in the Moorish style), but also enjoyed superlative gastronomy.

And the village of Orta San Giulio is a real gem, find out more about in my next blogpost!

Looking forward

Our plan for this journey was exploring some regions in northern Italy and southern France (see itinerary outline). Some of them we already knew, others were new territory for us. We had staying and dining in style in mind, as always when traveling. And we wanted to explore the areas by walking whenever possible.

Soon on my blog you will find what to do in Orta San Giulio. Then I will go into our choice of accommodation and restaurant in the heart of the Piedmont, a luxury hotel with a Michelin starred restaurant near Alba, the truffle capital (my post).

Date of stay: August 2021

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