In case you are a luxury travel enthusiast and about to go to Bali, I might provide some advice. Especially so, when it comes to which areas to choose for staying in style. This is also true when looking for some general information on the Island of the Gods. Think in this context of some background to Bali as a tourism destination or the best time for a trip here. If you care for doing the one or other walk on this magical island, then I might help too. Finally, being a (hardcore) foodie, I am able to provide a couple of really good addresses too, especially in Ubud!

What to expect in detail

While my main focus is about where to go for staying and dining in style in Bali, I will start my report on this island with some general observations. A view on its tourism industry makes the start, followed by some considerations as to its future. The section to follow illuminates the best time for visiting this destination. As Bali makes a good place for walking, there will be some information about how to proceed if you wish to do so. In a post to come I will suggest some Bali walks, and this divided by areas.

In a further step, I will go into which regions to choose for your stay on the island. This selection takes into account not only getting Bali’s essence but also making sure that it suits the demanding traveler. In this post, I limit myself in indicating areas with specific places that cater for luxury travel. When it comes to concrete upscale hotels, this will be the topic of a future blogpost.

In yet another post, I want to give an account of the fabulous (casual) fine dining options in Ubud, Bali’s cultural heart. When being here recently, my husband and I tried out five of the best what this town has to offer in terms of high end gastronomy.

As I can look back at four stays in Bali over the last years, I have already written quite a number of posts about this destination. I will include them in my reporting whereever it makes sense. My goal is it to complement the information already gathered on previous trips with new insights gained on my recent stay.

Bali as a travel destination

The Island of the Gods has attracted Westerners for more than 100 years. And since the 70s of the last century, it has drawn more and more visitors. The Australians were the first who came to Bali in bigger groups. That is no wonder because this island is not far away from Australia. And Bali became increasingly popular for Australian tourists in search of beach, beer and bungalow. The hot-spot in this context became Kuta, close to the international airport of Denpasar.

From 2012 to 2019 the number of foreign tourists coming to Bali has more than doubled (from 2.9 million to 6.3 million, source: Statista 2022). While the Australians remained the biggest group of tourists until 2016, this changed the following year. In 2017, the Chinese overtook them. And they predominantly came for an average three to four day stay as part of a package deal. In the years to follow, there was the pandemic which let the number of visitors slump.

Since the borders have reopened in February 2022, tourists are back. The target of 1.5 million tourists for 2022 will most probably not only be hit but surpassed (1.4 millions until end of October 2022, source: The Bali Sun). The Australians became the most frequent international visitors to Bali again. That is not surprising as the Chinese are not yet allowed to travel abroad. Will everything in Bali continue much as before once China will let its citizens leave the country again?

What is next for Bali’s tourism?

Little suggests that Bali’s tourism boom (Or better call it overtourism?) will come to an end. It is true, Bali is a traveler’s paradise. But the tourist officials have to take care that the Island of the Gods does not lose its magic. Tourism in Bali accounts for more than 60% of its economy (source: BBC News), which is not healthy.

The key would be to create a more resilient economy basing also on other sectors just as the agriculture or the art scene. As to the former, what would Bali be without its abundance of rice fields? From what I read and heard, there are lots of farmers who sell their land to investors as they do not earn enough from growing rice any more. It has to be feared that the rice terraces could turn into a stage set for the tourist industry only.

Furthermore, growth at any rate in terms of arrivals can no longer be the target for Bali’s tourism. Focus must be placed on other than continuing its unleashed mass tourism. Instead the industry has to move towards a qualitative approach. The aim here is promoting Bali as a destination for high-spending, long-stay (10 days and more) and independent travelers.

Best time to visit Bali

There are two seasons in Bali, the dry season (April to October) and the wet one (November to March). While you can expect hot temperatures throughout the year (26-29°C/79-84°F), sunnier days are more likely from April to October. Peak season on this island is in July and August, coinciding with European summer vacations. So, Bali sees most visitors in this period of time. Most travelers find that May, June and September are the best times, when the weather is favorable yet fewer crowds are around.

My husband and I stayed in Bali at various times of the year. Our first visit was in April where we encountered rainfall on two days (when being in the mountains). Our stays number two and three took place in the high season, once in August, the other time in July. Throughout our trips it was almost always dry and sunny. Our recent visit to the island was at the end of October and the beginning of November. Whereas it only rained once in the first week (the whole arrival day), there were late afternoon showers almost every day in our second week. And the rain brought quite a bunch of mosquitos too.

If I were free in my choice of revisiting Bali, I think I would opt for coming in the first half of June or the second half of September.

Walking in Bali

While you can climb volcanoes in Bali, it is not what I have in mind when it comes to walking here. Just one remark to the (serious) hiking. From what I read, Mount Batur might be suitable for the average trekker yet far from being an easy walk. As far as climbing Mount Agung is concerned, it is said to be very challenging. Only experienced trekker should dare to take on this activity.

For myself, I am more into walking or hiking for pleasure, with a low to medium exercise intensity. So, do not expect any advice regarding hardcore hiking in Bali. It is more about short fun walks here. And those are plentiful on this island, especially along its beautiful rice fields, which can be found simply everywhere.

Instead of offering concrete walking suggestions at this point (there will be in a post to come), I will inform about a great walking app. This helps you not only to find lots of walks but also the paths in the area where you are right now.

Which walking app to use for your Bali walks & hikes

On several occasions on my blog, I have already promoted the outdooractive app. It is easy to navigate, and you can also use it when you are offline. While you can check out possible trails when not being onsite, I find it easier to do so when you are already in the area, for example at your hotel. Then you open the map and list the available suggestions. In case you do not find a suitable one nearby, have a look at the paths next to you (the dotted lines). Once on your route, you can always check whether you head in the right direction (your position is marked on the map).

For walking recommendations in Bali, check out the ones in the outdooractive app. And as announced earlier, I will also suggest concrete walks by area in a future post.

Where to go in Bali for sights (& at the same time for staying in style)

When visiting Bali, you do not want to come here solely for sun, sea and sand. If you should be interested in laying on the beach and going for a swim in the ocean only, I personally could think of better places. However, it certainly can not hurt to spend a few days by the sea once you had your share of taking into the island’s sights.

In a first step, I will propose the regions in Bali to you that you should visit to get to know the “Real Bali”. As to specific upscale hotels in each area, I will go into them in a post to follow here on my blog. Yet I can assure you that there are accommodations for staying in style everywhere along the following itinerary. However, in certain parts they are not plentiful.

Bali itinerary

Bali’s south

I start with Bali’s most touristy area, the south, where you also find the best options for sun, sea and sand. In my view, it is the ideal place to end you trip as it is not only perfect for a few quiet days but also because you are close to the airport.

When it comes to where to go exactly as discerning traveler, I suggest that you should avoid Kuta at any costs. Evil tongues say that it is “the worst place on Bali”. And why is this? It is the island’s tourist mecca, especially for young backpackers and people who want to party to extremes. And it is not only crowded but also – from what I read – dirty and full of mediocre restaurants and shops.

As a traveler who likes to indulge in the finer things of life, I recommend instead one of the following spots.

Seminyak

The upscale beachfront resort of Seminyak north of Kuta and Legian outclasses its neighbors by featuring more high-end hotels and restaurants. A disadvantage here is that the traffic can get pretty crazy.

The beach here is suitable for swimming, albeit there are some waves. These may attract the beginner/intermediate surfer too.

Nusa Dua

This peninsula in southern Bali is known as a purpose-built enclave of prime hotels. While the gated government-sponsored compound of resort hotels is rather sterile, it is certainly a nice place to relax and unwind.

As to the beach here, it has white sand, and the water is great for swimming. However, at low tide you can walk as far as to the reef, which makes it rather a spot for beachcombers.

Sanur

This former fishing village on the southeastern coast has established itself as a vacation since the 1930s. And this long before the other beaches in Bali became famous. It caters mainly for travelers looking for midscale lodging. Notwithstanding that, I felt at ease here, liking the town’s laid-back vibe. At its heart, Sanur still remains the traditional Balinese village it used to be.

There are several beaches in town, from which Sanur Beach is the most central. They are all nice enough, and the water is calm.

Apart from these three seaside spots, there is one more catering for luxury travel, and this is the following one.

Jimbaran

I have not been here but from what I read it seems to be a good place for discerning travelers. It is said to have lots of options for high-end lodging and dining. The same shall be true for shopping opportunities. Plus, it is the fastest spot to reach from the airport, starting just south of the runway. And last but not least, it is supposed to be more on the relaxed side.

In terms of swimming, there are no big waves, so you do not encounter many surfers here.

After pointing out where to head for a few days in Bali by the beach, now to how to explore the original island, the “Real Bali”.

The “Real Bali”

To get the island’s real sense of place, you have to go further than its south, at least as far as Ubud. This small town in central Bali is the cultural and spiritual hotspot of the Island of the Gods. But for a complete picture, I consider it as necessary to visit other regions just as the north and the east too. This allows you to get to know an uncrowded Bali as well, because that is not the case for Ubud. As to the west, it is the least visited part of the island with no must-do sights. And there are no noteworthy options for staying in style here either.

So, where should you go in your search of Bali’s true magic? And remember, I will only indicate places that offer lodging for luxury travelers too. This excludes quite a few spots beforehand.

Ubud

No visit to Bali is complete without going to Ubud. Out of four stays on this island, my husband and I have been to Bali’s cultural center three times. And it never gets boring to do so. It is famous for its arts and crafts, and there are lots of galleries and artists’ workshops. Ubud is located among rice fields and steep ravines in the central foothills. You can reach it in about a hour by car from the airport.

There is definitely no lack of great high-end hotel in Ubud. Although some of them are not that close to Ubud’s center. If you want to dine at its excellent restaurants (a later blogpost will go into it) or even reach it by foot, I recommend not to opt for one that is more than 20 minutes or so by car away.

Bali’s north

My last overnight stay in Bali’s north dates back to 2014. But I have been told that not much has changed since then. At the time, we were in Lovina, that is a northwestern coastal town. From Ubud you need about two hours by car to reach it. Lovina is a low-key resort best known for its sunrise dolphin watching tours. Yet it features uncrowded (black sand) beaches too. And the water is calm here. And as you would not expect otherwise, hotel for staying in style here are scarce.

An alternative to Lovina might be Munduk, a relatively untouched paradise. I have not been here but read good things about it. It is circa 45 minutes inland from Lovina (one hour and 40 minutes by car from Ubud). It is a mountain village in the highlands of central Bali and supposed to be a heaven for nature lovers and waterfall chasers.

Bali’s east

When coming the first time to Bali in 2014, we  toured through the area without staying for the night. That was different in 2019 and on our recent stay, when we were here for four respectively six nights. And both times, we enjoyed very much this peaceful rural part of the island (my post about what do see and do here)! You get more than a taste of the traditional Bali here, and you are still able to escape the crowds. The best spot here to stay for the night is probably Candidasa. From the airport you get here in about one hour and 15 minutes.

For a great beach in the area, head 20 minutes by car from Candidasa towards west to Virgin Beach. Here you find a beautiful stretch of white sand, which is rare in Bali’s east. For divers, there is a good spot on the northeast coast in the old fishing villages of Amed and Tulamben (about one hour by car from Candidasa).

Overall/What is next?

This post focused on places in Bali with the “real island feeling” and where you find the necessary infrastructure for luxury travel too. Before doing so, I first went into some general information about the Islands of the Gods. This was about Bali as a tourism destination, the best travel time and how to proceed if you want to do walks here.

What to expect more in the context of Bali? After establishing where to go as demanding traveler on this island, I did two lists. On the one hand, I put together some of the best walks in all the spots I suggested (next blogpost). On the other hand, I made an overview on luxury hotels in these places (the blogpost after next). Finally, a last post about Bali will cover the best (casual) fine dining options in Bali’s spiritual heartland of Ubud.

Last date of stay: November 2022

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The post Findings on luxury travel in Bali after the 4th stay in 8 years first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Findings on luxury travel in Bali after the 4th stay in 8 years appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Paris is my favorite city in the world, and it certainly is the one I have visited most so far. My husband and I even used to live here for a longer period of time, albeit not together. He worked in Paris for a year. After returning, he got me an apartment for my five-month language course from the same landlady he had. And that was the beginning of our Paris’ love. Since this very moment, we have been going to this city on a regular basis. Our last visit dates from January 2020, and so my husband thought it was time to return. Therefore, he booked another stay here, a surprise for my birthday! To my delight, he chose a new luxury hotel located at my favorite square in town, Place des Vosges. And this was Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris.

And I went on the search for great Michelin (starred) restaurants in the area!

Before letting you know details about how it is staying in style at one of most magical spots in the French capital, a few lines about two other related topics. On the one hand, I want to inform you how Paris has been changing in recent years. On the other hand, you might be interested to learn what to do as a repeat visitor to this city. And this especially if you like walking. As to recommendations for great gourmet dining spots near our hotel of choice, they follow in my next post …

How has Paris changed in recent years?

As I have pointed out above, Paris has been a fixed thing on my travel agenda for many decades. Every few years, my husband and I return to it. And so, I think we have developed quite a good feeling how the city has changed over time. As many other popular destinations, Paris has become more crowded with time. Consequently, we had to find ways how to avoid tourists. We mainly do this by not doing the main sights respectively only “touching them” briefly. This is easy if you like walking. In this case, you can leave the masses of tourists behind you. More to this in the next section, before going into details how it is staying at Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris.

Another thing that has become apparent in later years is that Parisians have turned more and more into some sort of “Anglophiles”. English is now an everyday language in the French capital, and this not only in the tourist industry. It has become increasingly difficult to talk to locals in French, even you have a proper command of this language, as my husband has – I have a bit less so. They may start in French, but often in course of the conversation they change to English, sooner rather than later. And this in a city where their residents would not dream of talking to you in another language than French not so long ago!

A last point worthy of note is the fact that you find fewer cars and much more bikes in the inner city nowadays. While many travelers might welcome this development, it does not have good sides only. First of all, you do not hear them coming. Second, you find bike lanes in many one way streets, and this in the reverse direction. Third, too many cyclists think that they do not have to follow traffic rules, in fact almost all. In consequence, you as pedestrian have to be extremely alert when crossing a street or leaving shortly the sidewalk to pass other people. 

After this short anecdotes to Paris, now how to proceed if you want to avoid the hordes of tourists here.

What to do in Paris as a repeat visitor especially if you like walking?

The solution I am going to propose to you only works if you have already done the major sights here and if you are an avid walker. Hike Paris! For this purpose, buy the possibly best trail guide of Paris, the FFRP TopoGuide Paris … à pied! It is produced by the Fédération Française de la Randonnée Pédestre, the French Hiking Association.

This excellent guide lists three crossings through the French capital. The first goes from west to east (Bois de Boulogne

to Bois de Vincennes), the second from north to south (Parc de la Villette

to Parc de Monsouris). And the third stretches from west to east, crescent shaped and only on the right bank of the Seine (Porte Maillot to Porte Dorée, passing by the Montmartre hill).

These trails mostly follow scenic routes yet without neglecting the big sights. The guide contains detailed maps, pathfinding instructions and a wealth of history, culture and sometimes also wildlife information about the various sections of the trail. Short, it is perfect for your Paris hike!

Unfortunately, the FFRP TopoGuide Paris … à pied is only available in French! But also people with little fluency in French can learn to use it, with just a bit of effort.

My husband and I did all the crossings, at least once. However, we always left away the one or other section. But this does not reduce the pleasure! On our recent stay, we did the second crossing again. One one day, we started in the north and ended in the city center, in the Marais

where we stayed. On the other day, we began in the south and hiked all the way to the Seine and to our hotel on the Place des Vosges. What a great way to experience this city and its variety of neighborhoods! And just in case you should be interested, it took us about four hours to finish these two half trails (what would mean about eight hours for the whole crossing).

But now to where to go for staying in style in Paris. And this at Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris, right by the city’s most beautiful square, Place des Vosges.

Hotel Cour de Vosges Paris, luxury boutique hotel with view of Place des Vosges

Prices of luxury hotels in Paris have been skyrocketing in recent years. While we were able to stay at one of the top accommodations in town just as Le Meurice in 2004, this is no longer an option for us. And this is due to rates that we consider as exaggerated. If you opt for the least expensive room here mid-week in shoulder season you have to spend 1,700€ per night!

As a consequence, we usually go for smaller, not that known and recently renovated four to five star establishments, when looking for lodging in Paris. And this time, my husband indeed had a lucky hand when it comes to finding the perfect gem for a short stay in the French capital. He came across the fabulous Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris that was opened in fall 2019!

If you wonder which location to choose for a hotel in Paris, also check out an earlier post of mine.

Location of Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris

Staying at Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris is all about location! While this accommodation does have lots of other assets, its situation on the glorious Place des Vosges is the most outstanding one! This square in the Marais neighborhood in the city’s fourth Arrondissement is not only Paris’ oldest one (inaugurated in 1612) but certainly also one of its most beautiful.

Strolling under the arcades of the lining mansions

or along the paths of the central garden is such a wonderful thing to do.

The square was built on order of King Henry IV. He had decided that all the pavilions surrounding it should be identical, with two exceptions. Now there are 36 of them, built of brick and stone with high, blue slate roofs. One of them, precisely number 19, is the home of Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris.

Ambiance/Staff at Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris

When standing in front of the hotel, you hardly notice that it is one. At first glance, Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris just looks like its 35 ochre-red siblings. On closer inspection, you notice a sign and a heavy door, wedged between a modernist patisserie

and a traditional brasserie. When entering the 17th-century townhouse, you feel like being in a private home, albeit one with an impressive art collection. There is no reception, just a cabinet containing a computer and room keys.

Staff is very accommodative and kind. They seem to employ lots of predominantly young people working part-time. But you get everything from them you need. Yet this is no hotel for people who need pampering and lots of guiding. There are almost no public spaces onsite. You can have your breakfast in the courtyard behind the street door.

Or you can go to the adjoining patisserie that is part of the hotel for this purpose. By the way, you might have noticed the somewhat unfavorable Google reviews of this hotel. Do not be overly impressed by them as they mostly concern this tearoom, which offers rather pricey pastries.

Rooms/Pricing

As this is a 17th-century townhouse, it is constructed in the typical way of this period. There are four floors (plus the ground floor). The second floor (the so-called Bel Étage) is the one with the highest ceiling. You find here the rooms where guests were hosted at the time. As higher as you go in the building, the lower are the ceilings and the more modest are the rooms. At the top, on the fourth floor, you find the former maids’ quarters.

They kept this traditional room pattern at Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris. At the bottom, you find the Deluxe and Superior Suites, a bit higher the Junior Suites, followed by the Deluxe Rooms. And finally, at the top, there are the Superior Rooms. Prices (room only) start for Superior Rooms (26 sqm) at 750€, for Deluxe Rooms (31 sqm) at 890€, for Junior Suites (31 sqm) at 1,100€, for Superior Suites (40 sqm) at 1,300€ and for Deluxe Suites (55 sqm) at 1,400€. We had opted for a Deluxe Room, find details about it in the following.

Deluxe Room: our choice of room at Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris

As you may have noticed in the section before, staying in style at the Places des Vosges Paris has its price. However, I think that the rates can be justified. There is this mesmerizing view of Place des Vosges that you can enjoy from each room. It intrigues you from the moment the first rays of sun fall on the roofs and facades until the shadows grow longer.

The higher up you go in the building, the more the panorama expands. From the third floor, where my husband and I were, your gaze leads above the top of the linden and horse chestnut trees in the garden, which I found just perfect.

On the other hand, I found the room spacious enough and the decor ravishing!

I loved everything here, from the enormous four-poster bed, the seating area around the former fireplace, the table by the window and the generous bathroom with its stand-alone wash basin and tub. A plus was also the separate toilet with wash basin in an antique style.

Each room is unique. But in all of them you find art books stacked high and crystal decanters with whisky and vodka on vintage bar carts for self-service. In terms of materials and colors, steel and terracotta floors go hand in hand with light brown wallpaper and blue seat cushions. For me, the room’s character was harmonic yet at the same time contrasty.

The one thing that might be disadvantageous is the fact that there is only one small window. As we enjoyed sunny weather all the time, this was no issue to us. But I can imagine that this is different in case of a foggy day. If you care for more light, opt for a room on a lower floor where the windows are much larger.

Services/Other facilities at Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris

I already mentioned where you can have breakfast. Another option would be having it in your room. My husband and I chose to take it on the tearoom’s terrace (there is no in-room dining) every morning. It is a branch of the Brach-La Patisserie

serving sweet treats by pastry chef Yann Brys, who was named Meuilleur Ouvrier de France (best craftsman in France). And the croissants and pains au chocolat are truly excellent. But all the rest was convincing too, served from silverware by mostly pleasant staff.

Apart from the tearoom, which closes in the evening, there is no other spot for having something to drink or eat. But this should be no problem as there are lots of bars and restaurants nearby. And if you crave a drink, there is whisky and vodka in your room,

accompanied by all sorts of non-alcoholic beverages in the well-stocked fridge. There is no nicer thing to do than sipping a drink and contemplating this wonderful square at your feet!

As to your wellness, you can have massages in your room and/or you can use the Roman bath downstairs.

We did not get to trying out the latter, yet it looked tempting.

What is next

After all this info on staying in style at Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris, you will soon learn on my blog where to head for Michelin starred dining in the French capital. Come back later to receive all the details! Also check out my last post about Paris from January 2020 where I informed about three top restaurants, two walks and my two favorite squares! One of the latter ones is of course the before mentioned Place des Vosges. And as to the dining spots mentioned in this blogpost, all three still receive good reviews yet the stars among them are Restaurant Alliance (still has a Michelin star) and Restaurant Contraste (got a Michelin star at the latest awards)!

Date of stay: September 2022

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The post Checking in to Hotel Cour des Vosges, a luxury boutique hotel in Paris first appeared on Swiss Traveler

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Wondering where to go in the southwestern United States not only for sights but also for travel in style? And this without breaking the bank? My husband and I tried to do so and succeeded in many cases. But – as you may have guessed from the headline – it is no easy thing, due to increased prices or for lack of suitable establishments. Travel in style – think of staying at luxury hotels and dining at (Michelin) fine dining restaurants – has become increasingly expensive on the US west coast recently. And the offer of upscale spots for staying and dining in style is scarce in some places. As if that were not enough, it seems that overtourism has also reached the area. Notwithstanding that, we managed to compile an American southwest itinerary and embarked on our 9th (!) journey in the area. This time we flew into Los Angeles, then went east towards Arizona before returning to California’s coast.

Before going into the details of our voyage, I would like to address some related topics shortly. After a very brief look at our US west coast travel history there will be some lines to the current price level in the luxury hotel segment. This will be followed by some considerations on itineraries in the area – also as a result of grown national park tourism.

Our west coast adventures to date

I have just mentioned it, my husband and I are great fans of the US west coast. And so we have just had our 9th stay here! Our first one was more than 30 years ago, and oh my God, so much has changed since then. But I do not want to bore you with “everything was better in the past” stories. The last time we were here was in 2017, flying into San Francisco.

And I took this trip as an opportunity to suggest a Californian trip in five stops – find here all my posts about it.

Whereas we travelled the northern part of this US state at the time – starting in Mendocino

and going south to Los Angeles, including a side trip to Palm Springs – ,

we concentrated on California’s south coast plus Las Vegas

and Arizona

on our recent journey. But both times we ended our vacations in Orange County (south of Los Angeles).

And so I am able to compare the price level at a high-end hotel in the region, 2022 versus 2017. So much can be said, rates have been skyrocketing since then. More in the section to follow.

Increased price level in upscale hotels in the southwest USA

Maybe you have experienced it yourself, room rates at luxury hotels in popular destinations have increased lately. It seems that especially beachy vacation spots

are in huge demand. And this is no wonder as in the last two years leisure travel was often not possible. So, travelers are more than ready to spend money for their much needed and well deserved vacations. A phenomenon that is called “revenge travel” nowadays.

In addition to a strong demand, the hotel industry faces new issues. On the one hand, it suffers from labor shortages. This often results in staff reductions. On the other hand, costs for everything are skyrocketing. Not only materials are scarce but there are procurement delays too. The reasons for this are plentiful. First, there were delivery problems because of the pandemic, followed by similar issues due to the war in the Ukraine. A rising inflation was the result. This constellation brings along not only service cuts but also sky-high rates. Overall, you pay more for a room and end up with a worse service.

My personal experiences in terms of overcharging and under delivering at hotels

When planning our southwest USA journey, my husband and I were astonished to see how room rates for high-end hotels have risen since our 2017 stay. One example: At the time (end of October 2017), we paid 749$ per night (breakfast included, AAA Package) for an Ocean View Room at the Ritz-Carlton in Dana Point (Orange County).

For a stay at the beginning of July 2022, the same room would have cost 1,850$ (without breakfast)! And this without the accommodation being updated or so (it was renovated shortly before our 2017 stay). As we do not pay such an excessive price for a nice yet not so special room, we did not go for it.

At other places, we experienced a number of service cuts. There were hotels – we had booked a two-night stay at each – , where they had following room cleaning schedules. In one case, we were told that there would be no cleaning at all. At another lodging, they only clean the rooms every third day. And in another one, rooms were only done upon request.

While this did not pose a serious problem for us, we considered such a regimen as unusual. And this in particular in view of the increased room rates, where you would not expect sub-par service.

Before coming to our actual itinerary, here a few related things you better give some thoughts to when planning to travel America’s southwest. These concern general considerations – where to start, which route to take etc – but also the mentioned overtourism in the area.

Considerations on itineraries in the southwest USA – generally & in view of overtourism

Route considerations trough America’s southwest

As my husband and I have travelled America’s southwest extensively over the years (or better the decades), we have tried out various variations. Most times, we began our trips from either Los Angeles

or San Francisco,

as we are international travelers. However, this is not always the ideal starting point, depending on what you want to do. In some cases, it might be better to fly into Denver, as we did once.

Let us take the example of starting and ending in Los Angeles and heading east in between, as we did on our most recent vacation. You have to know that there is some kind of “gap” between the coast and the “touristic” inland. Here “in-between” you do not find many sights and no places for staying and dining in style. This leaves you as discerning traveler with two options. You can either go via Las Vegas –

what we did – , or via Palm Springs –

where we were on our last trip. For your way back to the coast, you take the one you have not done yet. As alternative – especially if you want to include Phoenix/Scottsdale or Tucson into your travel plans, there is also the route to San Diego –

as we opted for on our recent journey.

Overtourism in southwestern USA

Now to one more fact what makes traveling in the area more complicated and unpleasant too, the overtourism. As you certainly are aware of, there is a post-pandemic boom in nature respectively national park tourism.

While this kind of tourist activity has grown steadily for decades, it has accelerated since the 2010s (Bloomberg). And sadly, most national parks

and other nature attractions in the American southwest are crowded at many times of the year. As a consequence, it may be better to visit them in the shoulder respectively off-seasons or to switch to “second-rate” sights. In our case, we went this year end of June/beginning of July, and in Page we chose the Waterhole Canyon

over the Antelope Canyon.

But enough complaining, I come now to the actual topic, our American southwest itinerary.

Our California-Nevada-Arizona 16-day itinerary in style

Definitive route

Considering that we have been in the area many times before, we were not eager to do the same things all over again. And of course, we wanted to avoid revisiting a place that is now crowded and was not on a previous stay! We had not been to Page yet (Horseshoe Bend

and Antelope Canyon) and wanted to explore Sedona in greater details – we got to know and love it in 2017 on a (too) short stay. So, these were the two fixed inland points. We also thought about going to Tucson but dropped it because we could not warm to its vibe (and lodging offerings).

Hence, we started in the South Bay of Los Angeles (Hermosa Beach),

heading east towards Page

in Arizona’s far north – with a stopover in Las Vegas –

before coming to Sedona.

Here we spent a large part of our vacations, then drove – via Scottsdale –

back to the Californian coast. We “hit” it in San Diego

and made one more stop in California, and this in Orange County (Dana Point),

before returning to Switzerland.

Our travel style

As to our travel style, one can say that we have expensive tastes in terms of staying

and dining.

We are ready to pay high prices for hotels but only if we consider them worth the expense. And this was definitely not always the case when checking out lodging for our American southwest trip. As outlined before, we wanted to stay at a particular accommodation again that we knew from two earlier visits but found it way too expensive this time. And this very establishment was no exception! So, we had to “downgrade” every now and then.

Find in the following detailed information on our California-Nevada-Arizona itinerary.

My Google Map (itinerary) of our southwest USA journey in style

My Google Maple (itinerary) includes all the hotels we stayed and the restaurants we dined on our trip through the American southwest. And they come complete with short descriptions and pictures. You find the same as to cafés or ice-cream shop we went to on our journey and considered as good. Finally, I listed all the activities we did when traveling North America’s “Wild West”.

While we usually strive for the best in terms of hotels and restaurants – without overspending – , we faced some problems in achieving this. These were either due to excessive rates – as mentioned – but also because of the lack of suitable establishments. Whereas the offer of upscale hotels is plentiful on the Californian coast, this is not always the case when traveling inland.

I will not leave my Google Map uncommented. There is the one or other thing to tell you concerning each stop. You will find some details to all the seven places we visited on our journey through America’s southwest soon on my blog!

Date of visit: July 2022

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Mallorca, the most visited of the Balearic Islands near the eastern coast of the Iberian Peninsula, must make important decisions as to its excessive tourism. Are the local government’s small corrections of recent years enough to bring about a change of course? Here is how this small island has become one of Europe’s major tourist destinations. And find out what has been done to curb excesses originated by this development.

Before coming to Mallorca’s tourism – that has run amok – , some facts about this vacation destination, which my husband and I had chosen for this year’s spring vacation. And this for the first time ever! After doing so, further posts will be about topics I usually write about, staying and dining in style. First, I will outline our trip’s itinerary, before providing details for every stop in Mallorca (overview, southwest, north, northeast and Palma de Mallorca).

About Mallorca

Mallorca is one of the Mediterranean most desirable vacation destinations. Since 1983, it has been – together with the rest of the Balearic Islands – an autonomous region of Spain. This island enjoys a mild climate with lots of sunshine (annual average of 2,850 hours) and has an average temperature of 18°C/64°F. The tourist season is concentrated from May to October.

While most tourists come for sun, sand and sea,

the island offers something in terms of nature and culture too. Think of the Tramuntana mountains, a protected natural area that was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2011.

Or there is a myriad of places worth experiencing. In this context you have to mention the capital of Palma

or the small towns of Sóller

and Pollença.

And Mallorca is within easy reach of many European countries. In many cases you need no more than two and a half hours by plane to get to it. In addition, there are many (cheap) flights to choose from.

From mass tourism to a more sustainable one?

Tourism development

Spain is one of Europe’s main tourism regions, and Mallorca is its flagship. In the Balearic Islands, where Mallorca is the most important one, the tourism is the “main industry”. 85% of its gross domestic product (GDP) stems from it. And 80% of tourists to this island are international, mainly from Germany and the U.K. (Balearic Island Regional Context Survey).

Since the 1950s, Mallorca has become a major tourist destination. As to the number of visitors per year, there were 3 million in the 1970s, 6 million in 2013, 10 million in 2017 and 12 million in 2019 (Wikipedia/National Geographic). And this with Mallorca’s population of under one million! Of course, this rapid growth caused damages in various areas.

Consequences of the unrestricted tourism growth

Before coming to the effects of Mallorca’s growing popularity among tourists, first to how it all began. Long before overtourism was a problem for cities just as Venice or Barcelona, Mallorca and other Balearic Islands were already known for an out-of-control development of the touristic activities. There is even a specific term for it, the balearización.

Back in the 1950s, Spain’s fascist regime thought that tourism might be an ideal source of revenue. So, they virtually invented European beach tourism. Around Palma, high-rises were erected to attract budget travelers in high numbers. Soon the cruise tourism followed. In such a way, visitors flooded Mallorca in the summer months.

Not before long, the economic blessing of the mass tourism turned into a tremendous burden. For half a century, Mallorca was a symbol of a mass tourism gone mad. Some places such as Magaluf and El Arenal became bywords for debauchery and bad behavior of young vacationers coming to the island looking for a good time.

Of course, Mallorca’s tabloid infamy damaged the island’s image. This not only in the international context, but also among locals. The term for the latter is turismòfobia. Along with this tourist saturation there were more issues: abusive consumption of resources, excessive dependance on tourism, road congestion or rise in prices of rentals and property.

Measures against overtourism

There has been a switch in attitudes on Mallorca for several years now. The local government seeks to make the island’s tourism more sustainable. This to recast its image as a travel destination. A sustainable tourism tax was introduced in 2016. This in order to raise funds for protecting the natural environment, recovering the historic heritage and developing infrastructures to foster slow tourism.

As to the cruise tourism, Mallorca’a officials have recently decided to limit arrivals as from 2023. From this point of time, there shall be no more than three vessels a day at Palma’s port. And only one of them is allowed to be a mega-cruise liner with more than 5,000 passengers. This is supposed to attain a 13% drop in arrivals, compared with 2019.

As far as the drink related problems in popular resorts are concerned, new laws were introduced for certain tourist zones. They do not only ban the sale of alcohol from 9.30 p.m. to 8 a.m., but also forbid all-in-one packages, happy hours, two-for-one drinks and pub crawls. Furthermore, it is illegal to advertise party boats in designated areas. All this in the hope to clear out the drunks and trade partiers for more well-behaved tourists.

Will the transformation into a sustainable tourism be achieved?

Mass tourism has troubled Mallorca for decades. Yet this development did not simply happen, but it was deliberate choice. And therefore, another direction is possible too. However, it will be no easy task. While the post-pandemic period is suitable for making a hard cut, it is also a time where many in the travel industry have empty coffers.

First steps towards a more sustainable tourism have been made, more have to follow. A more upmarket tourism will not immediately bring in the big money. Going through a dry spell seems inevitable. But there are not many who want the pre-pandemic tourism back, which was overwhelming in all respects. Instead, they wish for travelers swapping coastal mega resorts for seeking out natural landscapes and local culture. They want such ones who also spend money on upscale hotels and gourmet restaurants. And vacationers who not only come in July and August but also in the shoulder seasons. And in fact, a transformation seems underway. Quite a number of traverlers yearning for slow and sustainable travel already find their way to Mallorca.

What is next on this blog?

As mentioned at the beginning, there will be more about Mallorca on this blog. I spent a bit more than two weeks on this island in the first half of April, to get to know a destination that was new to me. And I was not only delighted by the island’s natural wonders and man-made attractions but also by its top-tier hotels and fine dining restaurants. While I will not report on the former, I will inform about the latter, and this in quite a few details. My husband and I checked out four luxury accommodations (overview, southwest, north, northeast and Palma de Mallorca) and some of the best gourmet dining-spots in Mallorca. I cannot wait to let you know about them.

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Venice is undeniably one of the most popular places to visit in Europe. The uniqueness of its lagoon setting made it a worldwide attraction for centuries. Unfortunately, this fact made it to one of the most overtouristed spots as well! And this was also the reason that my husband and I had never been to this city before. With the appearance of Corona, we saw the chance to visit it without the crowds. We squeezed it in between two other destinations and organized a two-night trip to this magnificent place on short notice. And that was enough reason for me to do some research about Venice and its overtourism.

After some facts and figures to Venice as one of the world’s most overtouristed places, I do not want to withhold from you how it is to experience this City of Canals in Corona times. And of course, it was totally different than it was before this virus messed up the travel word.

As always, my husband and I made sure that we could travel Venice in style. We booked two nights at a luxury boutique hotel complete with a foodie dinner at its in-house Michelin starred restaurant. Details on how to stay and dine in Venice if you like the finer things in life will follow soon on my blog.

About Venice and its overtourism

Please note that all the facts and figures mentioned here stem from the very interesting New York Times article “Venice Tourism May Never Be the Same. It Could Be Better.” (by Anna Momigliano; July 2, 2020).

Venice has been a magnet for travelers for centuries. At the end of the 18th century, wealthy Europeans started visiting it as part of “the Grand Tour”. Lord Byron was among the city’s earliest holiday makers. A funny detail, our hotel room in Venice was named after him!

By the late 20th century, Venice became a “tourism monoculture”, i.e. tourism has been its only economy. Tourists became more and more and before the residents realized it, there were too many of them.

It is estimated that the number of tourists amounts to 20 million annually, and this predominantly concentrated in an area of two square miles and 50,000 residents! This was of course before Covid-19. In the high season, Venice was impossibly crowded, especially in its narrow alleyways, some just two meters, or six-and-a-half feet, wide.

Tourism did change Venice, and not in a positive way. While the city’s historical center had at its peak in the 1950s 175,000 residents, this number fell below 60,000 in 2009 and it is now down to 50,000. Many residents consider some parts of their city as off-limits at certain times. They say for example that is impossible to cross the famous Rialto Bridge between 10 a.m. and 5 p.m. without throwing elbows.

Day trippers (about half of the visitors) are especially harmful as they are on constant move. They disembark from cruise ships, train stations and bus tours. And they always crowd the same spots around St. Mark’s and the Rialto. An interesting fact is that for instance the cruise day trippers bring as little as 21 SFR/US$ per day and capita to the city (if they do not spend the night)!

Venice in Corona times

End of February, Venice’s overtourism came to a sudden halt. When Italy lifted its restriction on movement in early June, the lagoon began to see a few visitors. At the beginning, most of them were day trippers from the surrounding Veneto region. With time, others came, too. First, mainly Italians, afterwards also travelers from neighboring countries. I guess most of them took the car to get here, some also the train. From what I read, most of the hotels in Venice opened as from July or so, in contrast to those in Rome or Florence.

When my husband and I were in Venice at the end of August/beginning of September, there were tourists. Not many of them, as we were told, but quite a few, at least in the St. Mark’s

and the Rialto area. Except from those popular spots, there were no crowds. We were almost never forced to slow our pace – we had only two days here – , when we explored the city’s historical center, consisting of two islands. The foreign tourists we met were mostly German, often families. Yet there were no people from oversea, neither Americans nor Asians. It felt like traveling twenty or thirty years ago!

Of course, you have to see the major sights in Venice. Yet it is much better to aimlessly stroll through the city’s calli (walkways). By doing so, you can enjoy the city’s slow pace and its faded beauty.

At certain times, the streets were eerily empty. When we walked back to the hotel one night while it was raining heavily, we were the only people around. My husband and I were so happy that we had made it to Venice before it might become unvisitable. Either due to too many tourists or also because of high tides, the other big problem of this city.

After all this information on Venice’s overtourism and how it is here in Corona times now to a more pleasant topic. My next blogpost will be about where to go for a luxury stay

and a gourmet dinner

in this city.

Date of stay: September 2020

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Bali as travel destination

The impact of Chinese tourists in Bali

 

Luxury hotels by location

Ubud (southern center, stays in 2014 & 2016)

This town in the uplands is regarded as the cultural and spiritual center of the island and is home of a vast number of hotels. Back in 2014, we stayed at The Samaya Ubud Hotel offering an idyllic river location amidst the tropical jungle and upscale private pool villas.

See here my review. Two years later, we opted for the newly opened Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve property, in a similar setting by the river boasting lavish luxury villas and suites.

For more details, have a look at my corresponding post.

Lovina (northwestern beach, stay in 2014)

This is a quiet, relaxed coastal town in the lesser visited north of Bali.

Hotels to stay in style here are scarce, your best choice is probably The Damai in the hills above the seaside resort.

For a truly luxurious experience go for a pool villa. My review about our stay at this hotel can be found here.

Seminyak (southern beach, stay in 2014)

This upscale beachfront resort north of Kuta and Legian outclasses its neighbors by featuring more high-end hotels and restaurants.

Unfortunately, traffic can get pretty crazy here. A good luxury hotel to choose in this coastal town is The Samaya Seminyak Hotel with a great beachfront location and different categories of pool villas, out of which the Royal Pavilion is the signature one.

More about our experience in this accommodation is the subject of an earlier post.

Sanur (southeastern beach, stay in 2016)

Here you are in for laid-back vacations in a former fishing village, whose biggest asset is its 6 km (3.7 mile) boardwalk along the beach.

Opportunities for staying in style are not exactly plentiful, but the Maya Resort Hotel is quite a good option if you choose a Beachfront Pool Suite.

Top marks for architecture at this hotel but less so for a dignified breakfast!

East Bali (Manggis, stay in 2019)

This lesser travelled region is a good spot to escape south Bali’s crowds as it is still relatively untouched and pristine.

There are quite many things to do here, too. One of my next posts will be about recommended activities in this part of the island.

Actually, this hotel is the only one in this area that merits the distinction of being called “truly luxurious”.

Nusa Dua (southern beach, stay in 2019)

This peninsula in southern Bali is known as a purpose-built (in the 1970s) enclave of predominantly four- and five-star chain hotels. While the gated government-sponsored compound of resort hotels seems rather sterile and not really authentic, it is certainly a nice place to relax and unwind at the beach. But do not expect that you get a true sense of how this island ticks in this artificial world.

There also is not much to do in terms of activities. The beach is long and white, but at low tide you can walk to the reef, which makes this place a better spot for beachcombers than for swimmers. Nusa Dua’s best feature apart from its beach is the 5 km (3.1 mile) long boardwalk along the coast that connects all the resorts here. And if you are into shopping, there is a shopping center onsite (Bali Collection).

Regarding staying in style, a myriad of suitable hotels is available, amongst them many international upscale hotel chains. My husband and I decided to opt for a boutique hotel near the northern end of the Nua Dusa boardwalk, The Royal Santrian. While it is a bustling affair in many larger resorts in Nusa Dua, this small hotel with only 20 villas (all with their private pools) is a rather quiet and serene place.

Best accommodation options onsite are the three Royal Villas by the sea.

Overall

Bali, well known for its beautiful landscapes, historic temples and lush vegetation, draws large crowds of visitors. When we first went to Bali in 2014, 3.8 million came here. Since then, this number grew to 6.1 million (in 2018), an increase of 61%! While Australians had long been the largest group of foreign tourists going to Bali, this changed in 2017, when Chinese overtook them for the first time entailing the appearance of so-called zero-dollar tours. This had a considerable effect on Bali’s tourist landscape, and this towards mass-tourism. It is therefore imperative that the Indonesian government makes efforts to preserve Bali’s good reputation in the field of high-end and cultural tourism.

After three stays in Bali, I made a list with areas to go and hotels to stay when you fancy the finer things in life, starting with the cultural hub of Ubud, coming to more or less lively beach destinations as Seminyak, Sanur or Nusa Dua and ending with quieter coastal spots as Lovina or East Bali (Manggis).

My next post will be about our first stay at an Aman resort, considered as best hotel brand by many travelers. And this was at the Amankila Hotel in the lesser-travelled east Bali.

I will also advise later on what to do when being in this area.

Date of last visit: July 2019

 

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