There is no question that the main draw in Stresa is the visit to the Borromean Islands. Each of them has its own distinctive character and all three are only a quick boat ride away from Stresa. Yet there is more to do around this north Italian town not far from Switzerland. Find in the following some of the best activities around Stresa. Its location on Lake Maggiore, Italy’s second largest, contributes to the diversity of attractions. It is about sightseeing yet also about walking. While Stresa itself is not a large town, there are many more nearby worthwhile to be explored. And you can reach them not only by car but also by train and by boat. The latter due to the fact that most towns are situated directly on the lake.

Unfortunately, my husband and I only stayed four nights in Stresa, which was not nearly long enough to cover all the interesting activities here. So, I will not only report on what we did, but also provide a bucket list for more things to do. If you want to know about the town of Stresa, oozing lots of old-word charm, I wrote a short chapter about in my last post. Now to some of the best activities here. I start with walking/hiking and continue with other things to do.

3 of the best walks/hikes around Stresa

Before coming to three easy to moderate walks/hikes around Stresa, first a recommendation for a leisure stroll in town. As most other lakeside towns in Italy, Stresa features a lungolago. This translates into a lakeside promenade. You could start your passeggiata (afternoon stroll) either southeast or northwest from the town center. I lean towards the first, where you begin southeast from the ferry dock. The journey takes you past a couples of cafes and stately turn-of-the-century buildings. Furthermore, the 2 km (1.3 mi)-long lakeside promenade has lots of statues, fountains and flower beds. And always when gazing out on the lake, there is the beautiful Isola Bella too. To get started, make this easy activity as one of your first in Stresa to get your bearings!

Now to some more serious walks/hikes in the Stresa region. I start with the shortest one and end with one that I have not yet done.

1. Out and back around Villa Taranto in Verbania (easy walk/hike)

Link to track on Outdooractive (only one way – back – without botanical garden – Villa Taranto)

Pallanza – Via Vittorio Veneto – Villa Taranto – Via Vittorio Veneto – Pallanza

Duration: about 2 – 3 hours / Length: about  5.8 km (3.6 mi) / Ascent/Descent: less than 100 m (328 ft)

My husband and I wanted to combine the visit of the Villa Taranto botanical garden with a lakeside walk. So, this is basically another lungolago walk (just as the one mentioned above in Stresa) plus a stroll to criss cross Verbania’s beautiful botanical garden.

Tour description

We decided to start the walk in Verbania’s neighboring town, Pallanza. And we found that this place also has a remarkable historic center by the lake.

While the first part of the walk is along a street with moderate traffic, this is not for long. That is because the street quickly turns into some sort of shared bicycle and footpath with almost no cars around. It is along the lake with the one or other pretty turn-of-the-century building and splendid views over the water.

En route, a short stop at Parco di Villa Giulia

is worthwhile before continuing to Villa Taranto,

the actual destination of the the walk. Here, you can easily spend one to two hours to take in the botanical garden’s highlights. It features 7 km (4.3 mi) of paths with thousands of species of trees and flowers from all over the world. The way back to your starting point in Pallanza is the same you came.

2. Loop around Lake Mergozzo in Verbania (easy to moderate walk/hike)

Link to track on Outdooractive

Montorfano – Mergozzo – Montorfano

Duration: 2 – 3 hours / Length: 8 km (5 mi) – Ascent/Descent: 242 m (794 ft)

Lake Mergozzo is a small but charming lake, 15 minutes by car away from Stresa. It actually was the westernmost part of Lake Maggiore, some centuries ago. Nowadays, it is one of Italy’s cleanest lakes and barred to motorboats. You find here also the pretty town of Mergozzo.

Not only has it a lovely lakeside setting, but also a nice historic center. The tour I am going to describe is a circumnavigation of this lake, as I think one of the best activities around Stresa. And the town of Mergozzo, marking the halfway point, merits a visit by itself.

Tour description

The walk starts at a small beach called Spiaggia La Rustica, which is by the way a really nice bathing place.

Right before reaching it, there is a small number of parking spaces. Alternatively, you can leave your car at the nearby train station of Verbania Pallanza (so you can arrive by train too). The trail first leads through a wooded area

before coming to a campground, which you are allowed to traverse. Once done, there is a short stretch along the main road before you reach a trail up into the wood. Alternatively, you also could continue along the road. In the former case, the trail descends to the main road shortly before Mergozzo. Soon, you reach the town’s lungolago (lakeside promenade).

Be sure to check out this lovely town before taking up your way back to your start.

This time, you walk along an ancient mule track, which is mostly cobblestoned.

Shortly before the end of the walk, you come to an asphalt road. Turn left downhill to reach your starting point. You could also proceed uphill to get a look at Montorfano. This is a peaceful settlement with the remarkable Romanesque church of San Giovanni Battista.

Apparently, there is also a worthwhile viewpoint of Lake Maggiore a bit further up, but we missed it.

3. One way from Stresa to Belgirate via the Chestnut Trail (easy to moderate walk/hike)

Link to track on Outdooractive (not done)

Stresa – Villa Pallavicino – Passera – Belgirate (back by boat or train)

Duration: 2 – 3 hours / Length: 7.8 km (4.8 mi) / Ascent/Descent: 283 m (929 ft)

As I have not done this trail yet I cannot share insights from personal experience. But I saw it mentioned often on the internet, so I concluded it must be worthwhile doing. The Chestnut Trail connects Stresa with Belgirate via an ancient mule track, which is further up the hill. Yet it does not require a steep hike up. The trailhead to this path is even marked on Google Map (Inizio Sentiero dei Castagni Stresa). It is close to Parco Pallvicino (see below). Once arrived in Belgirate you can take the boat or the train to return to Stresa. I will not offer a tour description as I have not walked the trail.

After elaborating on walks in the Stresa area, now to less strenuous activities here.

Some of the best activities around Stresa

I start with a sight in the town of Stresa before going into the most popular thing to do in the area, just off the coast of Stresa. Of course, it is about the Borromean Islands.

1. Parco Pallavicino in Stresa

This is about the Villa Pallavicino, located on the outskirts of Stresa towards Belgirate. I have not been here yet, so the information provided is based on “hearsay”. You need about ten minutes by foot from Stresa’s ferry to reach Parco Pallavicino. The property was purchased by the Pallavicino family back in 1862, who transformed the simple dwelling standing here into a splendid neoclassical-style villa. They did this complete with creating a gorgeous park full of diverse plants and statues. In 1952 finally, Marquise Luisa, began to welcome animals from all over the world. And in 1956, the Pallavicino family transformed their estate into a zoo open to the public.

Nowadays, the park is home to over 50 species of animals, including zebras, wallabies or also native deer. In addition, there are a cafe and playground. The villa however is not open to the public. For sure, visiting Parco Pallavicino is one of the best activities in Stresa when traveling with kids.

2. The Borromean Islands, off the coast of Stresa

About the Borromean Islands

A boat trip to the Borromean Islands is a must-do activity when being in Stresa, also known as the “Eden of Italy”! It is about three idyllic islands: Isola Bella, the most notable, Isola Madre, the most peaceful, and Isola dei Pescatori, the busiest.

It is possible to visit all three islands by boat from Stresa’s ferry in one day. In case you can only go to one of them, choose Isola Bella, the masterpiece of the trio.

If you wish to omit one, I would leave out Isola dei Pescatori.

While they say you find here an old fishing village, unchanged by time, my husband and I judge it differently. We encountered mainly an island with only restaurants and souvenir shops.

About the Borromeo family

Now to what is behind the Borromean Islands. Originally, they were home to the aristocratic Borromeo family. They were merchants in San Miniato near Florence around 1300 and became bankers in Milan after 1370. Between the 14th and 17th century they were able to gain control of an “almost state” in the Valdossola/Lake Maggiore area within the Duchy of Milan. This “Borromeo’s State” ended in 1797 with Napoleon Bonaparte’s invasion. However, the family could keep their ample estates, one of them the Borromean Islands. And they still own the majority of them (Bella and Madre).

How to visit the Borromean Islands

When it comes to how to visit the Borromean Islands, I would suggest using Navigazione del Lago Maggiore (NLM), the official Italian state owned company. This because their boats run frequently and this also into the afternoon. Usually, in shoulder and high season, you have to wait not more than half an hour until a boat arrives (on a hop-on hop-off basis). You can buy tickets online or onsite inside the ferry building, either right before your trip or earlier (we bought them the previous day).

My favorite Borromeon Islands, Isola Bella & Isola Madre

Now some short words to Isola Bella and Isola Madre, my two favorites among the Borromean Islands. The former draws more people than the latter. And I already knew if from an earlier visit quite some years ago, undertaken from Ascona/Switzerland, which was quite a trip.

By no doubt, Isola Bella is the chef d’oeuvre of this trio.

There are a palace and a garden (one entrance fee for both) brought together in the form of an imaginary ship (Palazzo Borromeo). Originally, Isola Bella – named after Isabella, countess Borromeo – mostly was an empty rock. Vast quantities of soil were brought in to build a system of ten terraces for the garden. The unfinished building displays paintings and tapestries.

Isola Madre, the largest of the three islands, is also noted for its gardens.

They are kept as an English-style botanic garden with lots of rare plants and exotic flowers.

Yet the (uninhabited) palace is quite a sight too. It is beautifully decorated with 16th to 19th century Italian masterpieces and paintings.

After going into Stresa’s main sights, there is much more to do a bit further away.

3. Verbania with Villa Taranto and Villa Giulia

Verbania is the largest town on the lake and from what I heard – I have not been to the town center – not overrun by tourists.

As all the other lakeside towns on Lake Maggiore, it has its lungolago (lakeside promenade). Plus, there are the botanical garden of Villa Taranto and the country house of Villa Giulia (see above walk No 1). While the former persuades with its 3,000 plants from all over the world (villa is closed to the public), the latter can be visited on the occasion of exhibitions and other events.

4. Town hopping from Stresa

Apart from Verbania there are more towns you should not miss, so town hopping from Stresa is a recommended activity when staying here. And many can be reached both by boat and train. Unfortunately, my husband and I had only time to visit one of these places worthwhile seeing. It is about Sesto Calende,

where we stopped on our transfer from Alba to Stresa. It is right at the bottom of the lake, a pretty town where Lake Maggiore becomes the river Ticino. Not only boasts it an attractive historic center but there are also great lidos and lots of opportunities to walk along the water.

Further up the lake in the direction of Stresa, you come across Arona. It seems to be a quaint medieval town. You find here the bronze statue of Saint Carlo Borromeo (see above section about the Borromeo family), overlooking the town. Saint Carlo was the patriarch of the Borromeo presence in the area.

Right across the lake is Rocca di Angera, the Borromeo family’s imposing fortress. It is an impressive accumulation of five different constructions, built between the 11th and 17 the centuries. It is home of the 12-room Museo della Bambola with the Borromeo family’s collection of dolls. Plus, you can visit the vineyards that surround the fortress.

Another impressive sight is Santa Caterina del Sasso, a monastery located less than half an hour by car north from Rocca di Angera. The three buildings from the 13th and 14th centuries cling spectacularly to the steep rocky precipice. If you come by car, you either climb down more than 200 steps or use the lift (for a fee). When arriving by boat, you have to ascend 80 steps from the ferry quai.

Looking back at my Piedmont mini-series

This very post about what to do around Stresa is the last of seven posts concerning a Piedmont trip that my husband and I recently undertook. Before, I wrote about the best (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants around this town on the Lake Maggiore in the Piedmont’s north. And the first blogpost gave details to the top luxury accommodation in this area close to Switzerland, Boutique Hotel Stresa.

I covered exactly the same three topics for another Piedmont region further south, the wine region around Alba (where to stay and dine in style and what to do). All this was introduced by a 11-day Piedmont itinerary that included not only the area around Alba and Stresa but also two stopovers. One of those was in Caluso, north of Turin, the other in the Swiss west.

Date of stay: July 2024

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You may have never heard of Stresa, but it is one the older tourist resorts in Europe. This small, elegant town, embracing Lake Maggiore’s western shore, is part of the Piedmont, in the very north of Italy. Its rise began in the early 20th century when the Simplon Tunnel opened and trains on the London-Paris-Milan line made a stop here. Ever since, tourists flock to Stresa, also because of its most famous sight, the three Borromean Islands. While my husband and I have vacationed in the nearby Swiss Ticino many times, we never made it to this lakeside town. Until recently, when we decided to combine Stresa with a stay in the Piedmont wine region around Alba. And we did so also because news had reached us about a just unveiled hotel, Boutique Hotel Stresa, which is probably the best luxury hotel in town.

Before coming to the newly opened Boutique Hotel Stresa, I want to provide some more information on Stresa.

About Stresa

Most luxury travelers – especially from the U.S. – rather head to Lake Como than to Lake Maggiore. And that is the reason that this region, which is also lovely, has become very pricy. When it comes to Stresa, this is different as it is not so on North American tourists’ radar. And while I secretly hope that this does not change much, I cannot help but promoting Stresa a bit.

To get here from Milan by car or train, you need just over an hour. This makes it an ideal base for exploring Italy’s second-largest lake. Lake Maggiore stretches along the border between Piedmont and Lombardy all the way up into Switzerland. As a side note, when doing this trip you come to Ascona/Switzerland. And you will find quite a few posts on my blog related to this beautiful town. As to Stresa, there is a bunch of things to do in and around this lakeside resort. You will find a post about some of these activities later on my blog.

A few quicks words on Stresa as a place. While it is not large, it has everything you need for a few laid-back days on the lake. There is a promenade bordered by palms and flowerbeds with lots of spots to have a drink.

It evokes the atmosphere of the Belle Époque with lots of luxury villas and opulent hotels lining the lake’s shore. I have already mentioned Stresa’s most famous sight, the Borromean Islands that catch the eye immediately.

And the scenery is dominated by a forest alpine backdrop that fades into the snow-capped peaks on the horizon. Plus, this small town is blessed with a mild climate.

Staying in style at Boutique Hotel Stresa on Lake Maggiore in northern Piedmont

While there already was the one or other luxury hotel in Stresa before Boutique Hotel Stresa, I was not necessarily drawn to its hotellerie. So, I much welcomed the arrival of this high-end lodging option in the lakeside town. After some info about the accommodation’s back story I come to all the other details of interest for (luxury) travelers about Stresa’s best hotel.

Back story Boutique Hotel Stresa

Boutique Hotel Stresa’ story goes back a long time. The construction of the historic Stresiana villa is attributed to the Swiss architect Augusto Guidini (1853 – 1928). The property is known as Casa d’Oro or also as Villa Ostini, as the entrepreneur Ostini took it over in 1940.

After a remarkable three-year long restoration, the villa, transformed to a luxury hotel, opened its doors in August 2023. The building’s celebrated facade remains yet belies the modernity within. 26 spacious, state-of-the art rooms await you here. No comprises were made to create a cutting-edge accommodation yet with the charm of the past.

This new old gem of a hotel belongs to Preferred Hotels & Resorts. When it comes to the ownership structure of Boutique Hotel Stresa, the whole thing remains a bit nebulous. When researching this topic, I came across the name of the Russian entrepreneur Aleksey Fisun. This investor holds a dual passport and has been an Italian citizen resident on the lake for several years. In a more recent publication, I read that Svetlana Fisun (Daughter?) was the hotel owner. She also appears to be a dual citizen and resident in Stresa.

Location of the best luxury hotel in Stresa

The hotel could not be more favorably located in the town of Stresa. It is in the center of this lakeside resort, just adjoining the old town and opposite the promenade. You can reach the Stresa Ferry Terminal in a five-minute walk from here. To get to the train station, you can do this in ten minutes by foot. From the lodging’s roof top restaurant, you have the most stunning views of the lake, the Borromean Islands and the surroundings. And it is situated just between the Villa Ducale, Stresa’s oldest building, and another hotel, the Regina Palace.

Ambiance/Staff

I mentioned it, Boutique Hotel Stresa is a true jewel. It is one of the most beautiful hotels I have stayed in the recent past. Everywhere your eyes fall you find beauty and perfection. The unique allure of the place has been kept, yet at the same time the property got a new contemporary, unpretentious look. The front view of the hotel, where you can only see its old facade, is quite different from its side view. The latter discloses that two (Or three?) historic buildings have been connected by a contemporary modern building. Old and new are united in harmony.

The employees’ attitude is exemplary. We encountered an exceptional service from every member of staff, and this all the time. I was astonished to notice that even the bellboy, a young male, was articulate and fluent in English. He said and did all the right things at the appropriate time. At breakfast, we were pampered by the server, an older male. I think he also did so as there were not that many guests around on our stay.

Rooms/Pricing at Boutique Hotel Stresa

Room categories

As I already let you know, everything is top notch here. And this is true for the guest rooms as well, which offer the most modern equipment and exceptional comfort. There are three main categories: Garden, Lake and Peacock, with ascending value.  As to the Garden category, you can choose among Petit Garden (30 sqm), Garden Suite and Grand Suite Garden (both 45 sqm). It remains unclear to me what the difference is between the latter two. We had the Grand Suite Garden. While we had a large balcony, I noticed that other Garden Rooms did not. All the rooms of this category overlook the garden of the Villa Ducale. This is a good thing as this is the quieter side.

The next higher main category is the Lake. Here you can go either for the Suite Lago (45 sqm), the Grand Suite Lago (45 sqm) or the Corner Suite (60 sqm). Again, I cannot figure out what distinguishes the Grand Suite Lago from the Suite Lago. As far as the orientation of the rooms is concerned, I assume that they predominantly face the street that turns into the main road (actually the side view of the property). While you enjoy a lake view from here, you also have to consider the somewhat busy street.

The highest main category is the Peacock, with five different rooms ranging from 65 sqm to 155 sqm. And I presume all of them have panoramic lake views.

Pricing at the best luxury hotel in Stresa

I checked out the room pricing (best available with breakfast) for the beginning of August 2025 (high season), and this during the week. As to the Garden category, prices vary from 591€ to 900€. As far as the Lake is concerned, rates are between 810 and 1,264€. And the least expensive Peacock Suite starts at 1,446€.

Now to the room we had – as you know by now, it is about a Grand Suite Garden.

Grand Suite Garden

Visiting Stresa in early July over the weekend, we considered the pricing for our generously sized Grand Suite Garden (870€) as appropriate. I fell heavily in love with the gorgeously sleek room kept in blue, brown and light beige. There was not only a seating area but also a high table and chairs.

Our Grand Suite Garden was in the front section of the three-part building. This even allowed us to catch sight of the lake from our spacious covered balcony.

Also the bathroom embraced contemporary style in design. It was huge and kept in a dark grey.

The one thing not that ideal was the room being a bit on the dark side (three windows instead of two would have been better, but of course it is a historic building).

One reason for us to choose this room category was the option to have two single beds instead of one double bed. Unfortunately, this did not work out, so we had to make do with a king size bed instead. Yet, it was comfortable, and they arranged for two covers (which were too wide). Another issue was that the air conditioning was not set cool enough. We had to ask several times for an adjustment – apparently the temperature returned to the initial position every time when they cleaned the room. In addition, the fridge was not cold enough either. Plus, they did not refill the drinks in it every day (which were included in the room rate). Said that, these minor issues did not spoil our stay here, which was really great.

Facilities at the best luxury hotel in Stresa

Apart from the restaurants, into which I go further below, Boutique Hotel Stresa features following amenities. On the middle building’s roof you find a sun deck complete with loungers, tables and chairs, a small pool with jacuzzi massage and a bar service. And you have the most fabulous lake view from here.

In terms of relaxation and health, there are four private spa suites on site, each with a unique concept. For example, the Natura Suite transports you in some kind of alpine barn. And as these accommodation also have beds, you are able to stay here overnight.

Restaurants at Boutique Hotel Stresa

On the premises of Boutique Hotel Stresa, two restaurants are at your disposal. One is the fine-dining spot (LeBolle Restaurant), which also is the breakfast place. The other is the bar (Rooftop Perlage), where you can have drinks and light meals.

1. LeBolle Restaurant, the fine-dining spot

The main eatery at Boutique Hotel Stresa is LeBolle Restaurant. Le Bolle translates in English The Bubbles. There are five of these igloos made of glass and wood in the garden overlooking the lake. They definitely are the flagship sign of this dining spot and regularly arouse the curiosity of passers-by.

But it is not only about appearance at LeBolle but also about substance. The chef, Andrea Falciola, is knowledgeable in his field. At this high-end dining spot, they serve Mediterranean food with a twist made with quality produce. And they do this not only in The Bubbles of course but also in the modernly designed interiors

and in an outdoor area. My husband and I have dined here twice. All the details about how it was you will find in a separate post about best (Michelin) fine dining in Stresa later on my blog.

Also the breakfast is served at LeBolle Restaurant, located on the hotel’s ground floor. There is a well-assorted buffet plus an à la carte menu. From the latter, you can order some extra items just as fresh fruit salad, hot egg dishes or pancakes, and this with no additional costs. There is a section on the menu with selections just as egg Benedicts or smoked salmon, for which you have to pay extra. We liked what we got here and enjoyed our breakfast on our four days at this hotel.

2. Rooftop Perlage, the bar

The Rooftop Bar/Restaurant is the place to go for drinks and lake views. From here you really have a fabulous vista of Lake Maggiore and the Borromean Islands. Yet the panorama includes parts of Stresa too, also the neighboring Villa Ducale or Regina Palace Hotel. When staying at Boutique Hotel Stresa or at a nearby other place, do not miss the chance to benefit from these great views!

In terms of spending, drink prices are high. Cocktails cost 20€, gin drinks between 20 and 30€ and tonic waters 8€. Yet drinks are accompanied by things to nibble and a snack of the day. Service is knowledgeable and friendly. When it comes to food, there is quite a choice in the four sections of starters, first courses, second courses and desserts. In addition, you find here also a menu with typical aperitif snacks. Plus, they have a truly special selection of champagne here, although I have never seen a correspondent menu.

Overall on the best luxury hotel in Stresa

The new high-end Boutique Hotel Stresa on the Lake Maggiore in Italy’s north, close to Switzerland, hits many if not all the passion points for luxury travelers. They have it all at this upscale lodging: top location, immaculate premises, exquisite fine-dining, excellent staff and also that certain something. With the latter, I address The Bubbles in the garden, where you can have your meal when dining at their LeBolle Restaurant. These igloos are really an eye catcher. Yet at Boutique Hotel Stresa it is more than only about style. They deliver also in the area of content. What they do, they do it right at the best luxury hotel in Stresa.

And while Stresa is not Como or any other trendy place in Italy, it is a pleasant, pretty spot with lots of things do in town and surroundings. Find out about some of the activities in a post to appear on my blog soon. Furthermore, I will go into where to head as lovers of (Michelin) fine dining in and around Stresa.

Looking back and forward on my Piedmont reporting

In the paragraph before, I let you know what will come as to more content about Stresa. Now to what was before. The start of my reporting made a 11-day itinerary outlining three stops in the Piedmont and one in western Switzerland. Then I published three posts about the first main destination of the voyage, a stay near Alba in the typical Piedmont wine region. They included a review of the luxury hotel my husband and I stayed, three of the best (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants and things to do in the area.

With this very post, we have arrived at the second main destination, Stresa on the Lake Maggiore in the northern Piedmont. You have learnt more about probably the best luxury hotel in Stresa. Next is all about dining in style in and around this lakeside town and the final blogpost will inform on activities in the area.

Date of stay: July 2024

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Oh, I fell so in love with Buenos Aires, the beautiful “Paris of South America”! It convinces with a unique blend of European elegance and South American charm. You find here stunning architecture, wide boulevards and charming neighborhoods yet always with a South American flair. And to think that my husband and I only came to Buenos Aires as a stopover destination to Chile (see itinerary). Yet we planned three nights to explore it properly – here is my suggestion for a city tour in keywords (under activities on My Google Map). And this included staying at one of the best luxury hotels and dining at hip gourmet (Michelin) restaurants in Buenos Aires.

After letting you know about where to stay in style in this city, you find details to three great foodie spots in town.

Staying in style at The Palacio Duhau – Park Hyatt Buenos Aires

Of course, we wanted to stay at a hotel paying tribute to Buenos Aires’ image of “Paris of South America”. And the perfect choice here is – and at the same time one of the best luxury hotels in town – the Palacio Duhau – Park Hyatt.

The Palacio Duhau – Park Hyatt Buenos Aires’ back story

The Duhau family, renowned land barons, bought the property in the late 1920s. At the time, the existing mansion from 1898 had already been torn down. The new owners asked French architect León Dourge to design a new residence. He did so, and this inspired by Château du Marais near Paris. The result was a splendid neoclassical palace. After the building’s completion in 1934, the Duhau family used it as a residence, and this until 1995. In 2002, a local developer purchased the palace and entered into a partnership with the Hyatt Hotels.

After a 74 million US$ investment, The opening of The Palacio Duhau as a Park Hyatt property took place in 2006. Most of the palace’s original work was preserved. A new addition was an annex, a modern tower in the eastern end of the gardens.

Location

The Palacio Duhau – Park Hyatt Buenos Aires is favorably located in the poshest corners of the upscale Recoleta neighborhood. It is on Avenida Alvear, one of the most elegant and sophisticated in Buenos Aires. You find here many high-quality shops, glamorous mansions and quite a few embassies.

Yet the hotel’s setting is also good for exploring Buenos Aires’ sights. The closest is the famous Recoleta cemetery. Plaza de Mayo is less than ten minutes by car away, Plaza Dorrego in the historic San Telmo neighborhood less than a quarter of an hour. And you reach the Park Hyatt in about 40 minutes from the (main) Ezeiza International Airport.

Ambiance/Staff

As stated The Palacio Duhau – Park Hyatt Buenos Aires has a rich history and grandeur. The hotel’s palatial elegance is impressive. When entering the historic palace, towering columns, high ceilings, crystal chandeliers and marble floors await you. Personally, I liked Los Salones del Piano Nobile best (à al carte breakfast and light dishes), it is such a beauty!

And there is a lovely tiered garden area, which is considered as one of the best places in town to have a drink outdoors.

The more contemporary newer annex, the Posada Building, was – aesthetically seen – less to my taste. For me, it represents a compromise between tradition and modernity. But I imagine that it was no easy task to complement the original Palacio Building appropriately.

Staff does not fail to impress at The Palacio Duhau – Park Hyatt Buenos Aires. The service was excellent throughout our stay. Employees were attentive without being intrusive. Having said that there was a place where the service was not totally satisfactory. And this was at Los Salones del Nobile at breakfast time. Staff cleared plates on our overcrowded table only upon request. And at times you had to wait quite long for being served.

Rooms

Out of the 165 rooms in total, 23 are in the Palacio Building, 143 in the Pousada Building. The ones in the historic house still retain some of their original Belle Époque charm, the others in the high-rise have more have a sleek, minimalistic feel.

My husband and I had opted for a Park Suite in the newer Pousada Building.

Our room was spacious (72 sqm). It was kept in wood (floors and paneling) and muted tones (cream and chocolate).

The marble bathroom/walk-in closet was roomy and took up about a third of the total space. You could enter it either from the entrance or from near the beds.

We very much liked spending time at our Park Suite and also enjoying the views of the historic main building and over the Recoleta neighborhood.

Restaurants

Duhau Restaurant & Vinoteca in the historical building is Michelin listed and offers Argentinean cuisine. You can make your choice of a selection of meats and fishes, yet also some vegetarian choices are available. Gioia Cocina Botánica is also recommended by the Michelin Guide and specializes in botanical cuisine based on plants, fruits, legumes, algae and fungi. It also offers a buffet breakfast in the morning. The third in the row finally is Los Salones del Piano Nobile. This is the place for small bites and an à la carte breakfast. And all these three spots have an outdoor area too!

We did not have dinner at The Palacio Duhau – Park Hyatt Buenos Aires, yet we had breakfast here four times.  After having assessed both possible locations we opted for Los Salones del Piano Nobile. And we enjoyed the quiet atmosphere at these beautiful premises very much.

Also the food was fine, however “very American”, which means that you get way too much, especially when going for the American Breakfast (47 US$ for one).

Other facilities 

I will not name all the facilities, as they are quite many of them, check them out here. Yet I would like to point out the art gallery. You find it in a massive marble corridor that goes underneath the mentioned garden to link the historic Palacio Building and the newer Pousada Building. And it is open to the public! Do not be shy and have look around.

Overall The Palacio Duhau – Park Hyatt Buenos Aires

If you do not want to stay at one of those faceless, interchangeable hotels, then The Palacio Duhau – Park Hyatt Buenos Aires might be for you. The original building is a neoclassical palacio from 1932, the annex – a vintage tower – from 2006. And in-between you find a lovely tiered garden. Its location is great, in a gorgeous tree-lined street in the fashionable Recoleta neighborhood. Staff is immaculate as you expect it in such an establishment and the guest rooms are outstanding. Short, it definitely is one of the best luxury hotels in Buenos Aires, and if you want to know about great fine-dining restaurants in town too, keep on reading.

Dining in style in Buenos Aires

When I planned our Buenos Aires stay – think of staying at one of best hotels in town and dining in restaurants alike – , I only had the 50 Best Discovery list by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants to rely on. End of November 2023, there was a new addition, the Michelin Guide for Buenos Aires appeared for the first time – also the one for Mendoza. As it turned out, I was not that wrong. I had picked out a Michelin one star restaurant and another one listed in this guide.

A stay in Buenos Aires is not complete without eating at one of the traditional parrillas.

More about this and two other fine-dining spots follows in the next section.

Restaurant Don Julio Buenos Aires

Some background & setting

Like I just mentioned, Don Julio is a parrilla. This is a steakhouse where they grill over charcoal at a low temperature for a long time. The cuts are different and often bigger than in the U.S. In addition, the meat is only seasoned with salt and accompanied by a chimichurri dipping sauce. Back to Don Julio, it is not just any parrilla but according to the Michelin Guide in its comment to the one-star award “one of the world’s best”. As to the 50 Best Restaurants award, this restaurant is ranked No 19 and No 3 on the Latin America list.

The current chef at Don Julio is Pablo Rivero. He was in his 20s when the restaurant opened 1999 in the now trendy Palermo Soho neighborhood in a 19th-century corner property. It is said that his grandparents and parents laid the foundation of this success story, all with a background in beef farming and butchery. They refined the breeding and aging process of their beef to highest excellence.

When we approached Restaurant Don Julio on the day we had reserved – our hotel concierge did this as we were not fast enough to secure a table on the release date of the reservations – , we encountered a hustle and bustle around the place. There were lots of diners outside – it was not that warm – , and people queuing for openings. Upon entering, our eyes immediately fell on the spectacular meat display counter and the grill with the two asadores at work.

There is a main dining room and several smaller ones plus a gallery. The atmosphere is lively yet sophisticated. Staff is friendly, efficient and on hand to offer advice as to choosing the right piece of meat for you and the wine to accompany it.

Food, overall & price

Expectations were high – as you can imagine – , and they were fulfilled. I had prepared for the occasion beforehand, so I knew what to order at Don Julio for us. As I had found out that the meat serving sizes were large, we did not order any starters. And you get tasty bread, a small empañada and a small glass of sparkling wine to start the meal. For main course, we opted for a T-bone steak plus two side dishes, mashed potatoes and asparagus, everything to share.

The meat we got was a veritable highlight. After presenting the T-bone steak to us,

the server arranged it on two plates table-side, leaving the bone on site. Every single bit of it was scrumptious, packed ton of flavor and made our tastebuds sing! The side dishes knew how to please too. For dessert, my husband and I shared a Charlotte. That is Jersey milk ice cream with a warm dark chocolate sauce, poured table-side. It was also a flavorful delight.

Dining at Restaurant Don Julio is a must for every steak lover! This restaurant provides the ideal setting for a high-quality parrilla experience. While the ambiance is still casual and the service rather relaxed, the place is also clearly geared towards fine dining. It is true that you find lots of foreigners here, but that does not detract from the enjoyment. Don Julio takes his “meat responsibility” very seriously, even towards non-locals. And from what I read, Don Julio retains a huge local clientele too. Price wise, the T-Bone steak costed about 136 US$. The total check was around 300 US$ for two (with a bottle of La Gran Nave Malbec).

2. Restaurant Crizia Buenos Aires

Some background & setting

This is another long-standing restaurant in Buenos Aires fine-dining scene. Its opening was in 2004 in the Palermo Soho neighborhood. In 2021, the owners, the husband-and-wife-team of chef Gabriel Oggero and front-of-house director Geraldine Gastaldo, moved it to Palermo Hollywood. The dining spot, specializing in produce from the sea from day one, is ranked No 41 on the Latin America list of the 50 Best Restaurants in the World. And it also appears in the newly published Michelin Guide 2024.

As to the restaurant’s appearance, it is modern, kept in dark hues and dimly lighted. An eye-catcher is the three-story vertical wine cellar at the back of the dining spot.

Service on our evening was amiable, hospitable and helpful.

Food, overall & price

The menu here is comprised in five parts: Oyster Bar, Appetizers from the Ocean, Appetizers from the Farm and the Orchard, Main Courses from The Fires (Chef’s Creations) and Main Courses from Wood Fire (Charcoal & Wood Oven). I have to admit that the concept, especially the difference between the latter to sections, seemed somewhat confusing to me. While “The Fires” includes pasta, seafood, fish, lamb and suckling pig, the “Wood Fire” features fish, seafood, Peking Duck and rib eye. Be it as it may, there are lots of dishes to choose from. And if you should be indecisive, you can still opt for the Puro Mar Tasting Menu. However, this is rather pricey (224 US$ per person).

As the chef is a true connoisseur of oysters – from what I read he has been working with the same cultivator since the beginning, I opted for those as starter.

For the main dish, I chose the Patagonian Trout with a colorful vegetable and berry side dish. My husband also had the Patagonian Trout yet as a Tartar in unison with avocado to start the meal. Then he ordered the Patagonian Sea Bass that came with a potato-almond mousse and fennel. For desserts, we decided on the Dulce de Leche variation and the Chocolate Serena creation.

Everything we had was immaculately done and arranged, full of flavor and served by pleasant staff. My husband and I enjoyed our dinner at Crizia very much. In terms of costs, we spent a bit less than 300 US$ for the two of us with a bottle of wine.

3. Restaurant Chila/Amarra (Fico) Buenos Aires

Some background & setting

The third restaurant my husband and I dined at in Buenos Aires used to be a one of the best fine-dining outlets in town – ranked No 26 on the Latin America list of the 50 Best Restaurants in the World in 2022. And this for 17 long years, since 2016 helmed by Pedro Bargero. Meanwhile, it changed its concept. In 2023, the restaurant functioned as a showcase for a number of chefs/restaurants from different regions of Argentina. It did so under the name of Amarra.

You find this eatery in the heart of Puerto Madero in a former warehouse. There is a large windowed kitchen, which you pass when entering the restaurant. The premises are large, modernly styled and overlook the dockyards.

Staff is friendly and inform widely about what Chila/Amarra has to offer. On our evening, Estefanía Maiorano and Martin Sclippa (Fico) were at work.

From what I understand, the circle through Argentina’s kitchens is now closed. As from this point of time, Amarra’s team takes over to propose its own menu. This makes a tour around the country, taking the lessons learned along the way.

Food, overall & price

When my husband and I dined at Amarra, it was up to Fico, as mentioned. You could choose a three-course menu from an à la carte selection with three to five dishes in each section that costed a bit more than 80 US$ for per person. And it included – exceptionally delicious – snacks

and a pre-dessert. We went for the escabeche with mussels, saffron and pickled carrot as well as for the hazelnut port paté as starters. For mains, I had white fish with chard, asparagus and white garlic, my husband ordered a crab burger with fries. And we ended the meal with a chocolate mousse-buttermilk toffee-tonka bean creation plus a rum baba paired with fruit ice cream.

While we were not completely blown away by the food, some dishes just as mussel escabeche or the chocolate mousse dessert were very good. Other items on the menu just as the paté tarte or the rum baba were not that convincing. Both were overly large portions. Furthermore, the former lacked complexity taste wise. And the latter consisted more or less of dough plus was too filling. Otherwise, we liked the contemporary location by the water and the dedicated staff. When it comes to the check, it was the least expensive of our Buenos Aires dining. We paid a bit less than 250 US$ for two with a bottle of wine.

Looking back at my mini-series about a Chile/Buenos Aires journey

The current post about Buenos Aires showcasing one of the best luxury hotels and three fine-dining restaurants in town was the last of totally six about a Chile/Buenos Aires trip. I started with a 20-day itinerary  that focused on My Google Map of the journey complete with all the upscale hotels and restaurants we visited plus the things we did. The latter includes city tours in key words as well, and everything comes with lots of pictures. Afterwards I went into three high-end hotels in Patagonia and the Atacama Desert. Finally, I outlined how to stay and dine in style in three cities, which were Santiago de Chile, Valparaiso and Buenos Aires.

Date of stay: November 2023

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As a significant stage in the life of my husband and mine is about to come to an end – more info to follow later this year – , we  treated us to a special journey. It is about a once in a lifetime trip to Chile. We had thought hard about where to go in South America. After visiting Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands a few years ago, we had been a bit unsure where to head next. Brazil seemed too dangerous for us, Peru rather over-run by tourists. So, we opted for Chile. And this mainly because of its many natural wonders. As always when traveling we were looking for a luxury trip to Chile. While we usually try to avoid overspending when vacationing, we miserably failed here – so much I can tell you already. But first things first.

I start with some thoughts about where to go in Chile for luxury-minded globetrotters and then come to the actual itinerary.

Traveling Chile in style

While we first thought we had had plenty of time (20 days) to explore Chile, we soon found out that this was not necessarily the case. Out of four highlights – Atacama Desert, Patagonia, Easter Island and Lake District – , we had to leave away the latter two. First of all, we “lost” three days because we had a stopover in Buenos Aires.

We opted for this not only because of this city’s beauty but also due to less flight costs when doing so (minus a bit more than 2,000 US$ for two). And second, we longed for a non-rushed itinerary. Having said that we wanted to see different parts of Chile, not only one. Yet Patagonia is usually a must for every Chile traveler boasting varied landscapes with impressive glaciers, bizarre rock formations, blue lakes and extensive steppes.

Patagonia (south Chile, from Puerto Montt to Cape Horn) luxury trip

You have to know that you can easily spend four weeks in Patagonia without seeing it all. It is said that you need about two weeks to do the mayor things here, and this in a quick way. As you might know, Patagonia has a harsh climate. As my husband and I are not too much into spending lots of time at such latitudes, we limited our time here to five days. This is about the minimum time you should come and only allows you to explore one place. My husband and I chose Patagonia’s crown jewel. This is about the Torres del Paine National Park in Southern Patagonia (see post about luxury hotels here). You can reach it by flying into Puerto Natales from Santiago in just over three hours. Then you have to drive another one and half hours to get to the national park’s entrance.

A second Chile destination: Atacama Desert (north Chile, from Copiapó to Peruvian border)

If you want to combine Patagonia with a second destination in Chile – and if you like nature – , then the Atacama Desert is your best option (see post about luxury hotels here). While the Lake District also seems to be worthwhile traveling, Atacama is something special. It is not only the driest nonpolar desert in the world but also features diverse landscapes including geysers, lagoons, volcanoes and crusty hills. As to Easter Island, you have to take into account a flight of five and a half hours in order to get there. To enjoy the island’s cultural heritage and natural beauty to the full, I suppose you should plan at least a four-day stay. So, you need almost one week for this undertaking.

Thus, we went for Patagonia and the Atacama Desert. And to be honest, both of them are not exactly off the beaten path. They suffer from overtourism, especially the place we chose in Patagonia (Torres del Paine National Park). I fully realized this only after our journey. Yet, also in the hindsight, we would make the same choices. The Lake District, the most viable alternative to South Patagonia, is considered as “Chilean Switzerland”. And we as Swiss not necessarily need more Switzerland when traveling.

Santiago & Valparaiso as urban complements to Patagonia & Atacama Desert

Around the two nature highlights of Patagonia and the Atacama Desert we built in a number of urban stays. On the one hand, we were three times in Santiago (post about staying & dining in style) – once at an airport hotel as you cannot fly directly from the Atacama Desert to Patagonia.

On the other hand, we made a three-day visit to Valparaiso (post about staying & dining in style) – a one and a half hour drive away from Santiago.

This beautiful port city is Chile’s second largest and known for its colorful houses built on the many hills that surround it – and Valparaiso is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

In total, we had five days in Santiago and three days in Valparaiso. That is a lot of time, but as mentioned, we were looking for a non-rushed itinerary. You can easily reduce the Santiago stay to three days – you probably need one of them for a stopover between the Atacama Desert and Patagonia. As to Valparaiso, two days might be enough to see the mayor sights. We had thought about exploring the wine regions near Santiago. Yet we did not come across a suitable hotel, and so we let it be.

After setting the scene as to this luxury Chile trip, I jump into the details of our Buenos Aires and Chile itinerary.

My Google Map of Chile & Buenos Aires in style, a non-rushed 20-day itinerary 

My Google Map illustrates the 20-day journey to Chile and Buenos Aires my husband and I undertook in the first half of November 2023.

You find here all the luxury hotels (Patagonia, Atacama Desert, Santiago de Chile, Valparaiso and Buenos Aires) we stayed

and the foodie restaurants (Santiago de Chile, Valparaiso and Buenos Aires) we dined,

complete with pictures. In addition, I included all the activities we did,

again with photos.

As far as our stays in Patagonia around Puerto Natales and in the Atacama Desert in the San Pedro area are concerned, I listed all the half and full days trip guided by the hotels we stayed.

With regard to the cities we visited (Buenos Aires, Santiago and Valparaiso), I indicated the routes we took to explore them (self-guided).

In the following, there is also a travel plan of this luxury Chile trip with the number of nights we spent at the respective location (plus hotel).

• 3 nights in Buenos Aires (Park Hyatt Buenos Aires)
• 2 nights in Santiago (The Singular Santiago)
• 4 nights in San Pedro de Atacama (Awasi Atacama)
• 1 night in Santiago (airport, Holiday Inn Santiago)
• 2 nights in Puerto Natales (The Singular Patagonia)
• 3 nights in Torres del Paine National Park (Tierra Patagonia)
• 3 nights in Valparaiso (Casa Higueras)
• 2 nights in Santiago (The Singular Santiago)

What is next about Chile & Buenos Aires

While I provided an overview of our Chile and Buenos 20-day luxury trip in this blogpost, my next posts will be about the details of the respective stops we did. When doing so, I will focus on the hotels and restaurants we visited. Most of them were high-end, as it was a luxury Chile trip. At one point or another, I will also cast a look at activities, yet these will no be at the center of my attention. Instead, refer to My Google Map of Chile & Buenos Aires in style where I have listed all the things we did, complete with (numbered) pictures.

My Chile short series will cover following topics:

• Patagonia (my post): Hotel The Singular Patagonia (half board) and Hotel Tierra (all-inclusive)
• Atacama Desert (my post): Hotel Awasi Atacama (all-inclusive)
• Santiago (my post): Hotel The Singular Santiago and three foodie restaurants
• Valparaiso (my post): Hotel Casa Higueras and three high-end dining spots
• Buenos Aires (my post): Hotel Park Hyatt Buenos Aires and three gourmet restaurants

Date of stays: November 2023

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Hotel Waldhaus in Sils Maria, in the beautiful Engadine in the Swiss Alps, is a truly unique place. There is no other property in Switzerland of this kind. It has been family owned since it was constructed 115 years ago. There is a spirit of continuity here that is second to none. The Waldhaus is not just another luxury hotel, but it has a soul of its own. It may be best described with a list of characteristics: it is unpretentious, understated, full of character, affine to culture, luxurious but not too much so, affordable, near to Saint Moritz yet so far away from it. There would be more, but I do not want to try your patience. I will do my best to bring Hotel Waldhaus closer to you in the next paragraphs.

I start with detailing my connection to this hotel and letting you know more about the family that stands behind it. If you should wonder about where I got all this data, they published a book on the occasion of the Waldhaus’ 111th birthday in 2019 (also available in English). After doing this, I will go into the hotel’s features.

My personal relation to Waldhaus Sils

While my husband and I always very much liked our stays at the Waldhaus Sils, we have not been here for 16 years! Our (too long) absence did not have anything to do with the hotel but it was due to other factors. Instead of going to the Upper Engadine, which we adore, we rather went to Davos, another resort town in the Swiss Alps. This because we had business friends who had bought a hotel and personal friends who had acquired a vacation apartment here. And both happened at about the same time. Yet, in the meantime the situation has changed somehow, and we are free again to go wherever we please!

And so we decided to return to Hotel Waldhaus Sils Maria to spend a few days for skiing and winter walking (my next post will describe two great winter walks). In the past, we had come here rather in summertime for walking/hiking.

Our first stay dates back to 2000. Afterwards, we returned six times more. And the last stay before our current one was in 2007. We always went as a family, with our son, when he was a child and a young teen. Our recent visit was actually the first where my husband and I went on our own. But we have already decided to come back with our son and his girlfriend when the occasion arises!

And how was our coming back? Walking through the Waldhaus’ entrance door was like we had never been away. But this does not mean that the time has stood still here. The hotel has moved on – there were some remodeling projects – yet without losing its original flair. In the meantime, a new generation – the fifth – has taken over yet the old one is still present. The same is true for quite a number of staff. Above all, that is about the Maître d’Hôtel (the restaurant manager), Walter Nana, who has been working here for 38 years! And we were warmly welcomed back!

Hotel Waldhaus Sils’ backstory

Generation I (about 1908 – 1918)

Waldhaus Sils was opened in 1908, and this after the relatively short construction time of two years. Josef Giger was the founder, who used to manage Hotel Hof Ragaz in Bad Ragaz in eastern Switzerland, and he managed it together with his wife Amalie (generation I). After long years in the upscale hospitality business, Josef Giger knew exactly what he wanted his hotel to be. It should be beautiful and grand yet at the same time “practical and solid”. What he did not have in mind, was some kind of palatial building.

The result is some kind of a fortress. While it majestically sits on a hill above the village of Sils Maria, surrounded by forest, it is no palace. However, it is far from being modest. It definitely wants to impress. From its style, you can best describe it as historicist. There is also no true front and back. As to the number of rooms, there are 140 of them today, about the same as in 1908.

Generation II (about 1918 – 1960)

After the death of Josef and Amalie Giger, one of her daughters, Helen, took over with her husband, Oskar Kienberger. Funnily enough, this is the son of one of Josef Giger’s peers – he used to manage Hotel Quellenhof in Bad Ragaz at the same time as he was in charge of the neighboring Hotel Hof Ragaz.

They went through no easy time, the global economic crisis hit the Waldhaus hard. And the second world war that followed was not any different. But shortly after the end of the war, there was more or less business as usual at the Waldhaus. As the zeitgeist demanded, all the hotel rooms became equipped with bathrooms. The rapid spread of the automobile made it also necessary to construct garage buildings.

Generation III (about 1960 – 1987)

Rolf, one of Helen and Oskar Kienberger’s sons, soon became the designated successor of the family business, and this together with his wife Rita. He was responsible for the reintroduction of the winter season at the Waldhaus. At the beginning, his father opposed – he had made some bad experiences in this respect – , but in the end this decision turned out to be the right one. The overnight stays increased significantly afterwards.

Under Rolf’s helm, an indoor swimming pool started its operation (1969/70). Also the dining-room was updated and enlarged (1978). Then the “Palais du Garage” was opened too (1982/83). It contained not only an underground car park but also tennis courts, indoor and outdoor. And the first kitchen renovation took place (1977).

Generation IV (about 1987 – 2010)

After the era Rolf Kienberger, a new name appeared, Felix Dietrich. Rolf was his godfather and soon discovered his suitability for a job in the hospitality field. And when this talented young man fell in love with Maria, one of Rolf and Rita’s daughters, all the better. After their wedding, they worked at the side of Rita and Rolf Kienberger until they took over completely in 1987. Two years afterwards, they were joined by Urs Kienberger, Maria’s brother, who had pursed a career as economist before.

And the success story of Waldhaus went on under the lead of this trio. They showed engagement in different areas. Among others, culture became more important (lectures, concerts, book presentations, excursions, theater performances). While pursuing such activities, the hotel directors always made sure that they complement the hotel’s everyday life. In no way, culture was meant to be in the foreground.

With the fourth generation on the helm, the kitchen was once again overhauled, along with some neighboring spaces (2008, costs of 10 million SFR/US$). This was also the point of time when a chef’s table was introduced. Furthermore, the hotel lounge was enlarged by 6 m (20 ft) into the forest (1991) and a second underground car park was built (1999).

Generation V (from 2010)

While Felix Dietrich stepped back in 2010 at the age of 60, Urs Kienberger had not been ready yet (two years younger). He wanted to stand by the next generation for some more time (2014). The new leading force as from 2010 consisted of Maria and Felix Dietrich’s two sons. Claudio (born 1977) is responsible for the operational and administrative management, Patrick (born 1980) for guest relations.

Under the lead of Urs Kienberger, the smokers were “relocated” from the bar into a newly constructed smoking room. This change made it necessary to move the à la carte restaurant Arvenstube towards east (2011/12, more than 2.5 million SFR/US$). The youngsters on their part tackled the major project of a spa, which was a heathen task. This because most of this new building is underneath the ground (2016/17, costs of a little less than 11 million SFR/US$).

Otherwise, Claudio and Patrick do their best to continue the work of their ancestors, and as my husband and I thought, very successfully. As to their appearance and personality, Claudio reminds us of his father. With regard to Patrick, he definitely has quite some genes from the Kienberger’s side.

Location of Hotel Waldhaus Sils Maria Engadine

I have already mentioned it, Hotel Waldhaus is located in Sils Maria. This is a small town on Lake Sils in the Upper Engadine, a marvel long high Alpine valley in eastern Switzerland. The accommodation towers high above Sils at the start of the Fex Valley, a beautiful side valley, which is a mostly car-free zone (if you like winter walking, one of the two walks in my next post heads here). The Waldhaus is amidst a larch forest, and you enjoy unobscured views of the surroundings from here.

The most desirable view is probably to the west towards Lake Sils and Maloja.

Yet also the one to the south (Fex Valley) is nice. I personally like to overlook Lake Silvaplana and Sils (east side).

The latter is also in the direction where Saint Moritz lies, from which you probably have already heard about. This glamorous resort town has the reputation of being one of those places (see my post) where the rich and famous like to reside. While it definitely is no beauty, you find here lots of renowned hotels – which I find overpriced in the winter season – , chic shops and restaurants. When staying at Hotel Waldhaus, you are close to Saint Moritz (about 10 km/6.2 mi away), yet this fashionable spot seems like a world apart from the tranquility in Sils.

Ambiance at Hotel Waldhaus Sils Maria Engadine

In case you are fond of hotels full of people who display their wealth and put on an ostentatious show of their possessions, then you are probably better off in one of the Saint Moritz properties. In contrast, if you are more into understated luxury, then you might be in the right place at the Waldhaus. It is not so that you find here not all the amenities of a five-star accommodation yet it is neither pompous nor glamorous.

Hotel Waldhaus was named “Historic Hotel of the Year” in 2005 by ICOMOS, the International Council on Monuments and Sites. And again in 2015, it got a special anniversary award “20 years of Historic Hotels of the Year”. And they know here how to preserve the old without being old-fashioned. Renewal projects are carried out when the time is ripe. Yet they are usually no fast starters. As a family business, it takes consideration to realize huge renovation plans.

I already let you know that culture is important at the Waldhaus. There are not only a number of activities in this respect – all with the intent of complementing the every day life at the hotel – , you find here also a quite a number of guests with an affinity for the fine arts. The hotel also seems to attract people that work in this scene. On our stays, we have encountered several “celebrities”. When visiting a short time ago, we happened to notice one of the most notable Swiss architects among the guests.

Staff at Hotel Waldhaus Sils Maria Engadine

Not only there are lots of returning guests at the Waldhaus (70% and more), also the staff shows great loyalty to this hotel. After 16 years of not being here, my husband and I still recognized some employees at the restaurant on our recent stay. This is true not only for Walter Nana, the restaurant manager, as mentioned above, but for others too. For example, Oscar Comalli, the sommelier, has been working here since 1992.

There is also longtime staff in the kitchen. The chef patissier, Renato Pellegrinelli, has been occupied at the Waldhaus for more than 30 years!

If you wonder about the number of employees, there are about 170 of them. They are responsible for about 240 guests at full occupancy. As to the staff’s attitude, all of them are hospitable and friendly. You get the feeling that their service mentality is genuine. Their friendliness does not come across as fake. And a personal touch is for sure at most times.

Rooms/Pricing

Earlier on, I already informed on the guest rooms’ views. From out of the 140 rooms, you can make your choice of a variety of categories. For the two of you – there is also a large selection for solo travelers – , you can decide on four options: 2a* Junior Suite, 2a Best, 2b Standard and 2c Small. In addition, there are three kind of suites available. In case you care for views towards south and west, there is an additional charge.

As to the seasons, you find here four different ones. PEAK is around Christmas and New Year as well as from about the second week of February through end of February. In the remaining winter times, you pay either the HIGH rates or minus 10% (shoulder season) or 20% (low season). In summer, there is no PEAK and only one HIGH season, and this from about the last week of July to mid-August. The rest is available with a discount of 10% or 20% as above.

The rates start at 485 SFR/US$ (two persons, 2c Small, minus 20% low season, 2022/2023). They include half board. In case you only want to have breakfast you pay 50 SFR/US$ less per person. And three styles of rooms are at your disposal: classic, modern and nostalgic. The latter rooms come with the original restored furnishings from 1908. I consider this pricing as reasonable, especially compared to the one in Saint Moritz, which is – I repeat myself – over the top, especially in wintertime.

2a* Junior-Suite: our choice of room at Hotel Waldhaus Sils Maria

As my husband and I prefer to have enough space, we went for the biggest double room, the 2a* Junior Suite. This category offers a surface of 40 to 50 sqm. There is a large bathroom with double sinks plus a tub and a separate shower.

And there is a comfortable seating area too. In our case, the room also featured a spacious separate toilet with a generous washbasin.

We had not asked for a preferred view towards south or west. So, we overlooked the east towards Lake Silvaplana, which is in fact my favorite one.

While we were in favor of our room – we opted for a modern one – , I was not especially fond of the carpet (“dirty” hue, which did not fit the color concept of the furnishings). And I would have preferred a sofa and an armchair instead of two armchairs. But those were little things. Overall, we were satisfied and felt at ease in our room.

Other facilities/Services at Hotel Waldhaus Sils

Waldhaus Sils has all the offerings you expect from a five-star property plus some more which you seldom find at other comparable houses. I am talking in this context about cultural activities in particular (see below). Another interesting fact about this hotel is that a full spa has been only available since the winter season 2016/17. Details follow in the respective section. Last but not least, there has been a new restaurant onsite since the winter season 2020/21, the GIGERS. More about it you find just afterwards.

Restaurants

There are four dining-spots available, from which three are possible to book also for outside guests (all but the Waldhaus Dining-Room). In case you care for smaller bites only, you can have them at the Bar and at this wonderful Great Lounge.

In addition, you find here also a terrace for warmer days. Executive Chef at the Waldhaus kitchen is Gero Porstein, who has been in charge in this function since 2018. Before, he was Executive Chef at the Carlton Hotel Saint Moritz (Restaurant Vittorio) and Hotel Eden Roc in Ascona (Restaurant Marina).

GIGERS

I start with the GIGERS as I have just mentioned it above. It is named after the founder of the Waldhaus, Josef Giger. You find it at the spot where the third tennis court used to be, across the street just adjoining the separate building (“Palais du Garage”). The nickname for it is “fondue restaurant”. Yet of course you get here more than that, yet basically expect comfort food here. GIGERS is housed in a modern building, a wooden quadrangle, at the edge of the larch forest. As I have not eaten here, I cannot comment how it is.

Arvenstube

The second restaurant that I do not now from personal experience is the Arvenstube (Stübli made of Swiss pine wood). It is about the à la carte dining-spot where they serve modern Swiss cuisine, based on traditional recipes, with local produce. If you wonder why I have not yet dined here nor at GIGERS, the answer can be found in the next restaurant that I am going into.

Waldhaus Dining-Room

This is the Waldhaus Dining-Room, precisely the dining-rooms.

Here you have dinner in case you are on half board, which most of the guests staying at the Waldhaus are. It is always a festive and at the same time a relaxed affair, taking in the meals at these elegant, high-ceiling dining-rooms. For my husband and me it is a much loved “ritual” which we do not want to miss, unless it is for the Chef’s Table (see below). On offer here  are three menus, which change daily, and from which you can order four to five courses. The food is sophisticated yet without chichi, made of high-quality produce, locally sourced whenever possible.

Chef’s Table

A fourth option is the mentioned Chef’s Table. It is available usually on Mondays or on request. And it is really worth booking if you are a wine lover and interested in witnessing the hustle and bustle of a large hotel cuisine.

The premises are quite a sight too: huge, high-ceilings and high windows.

And you are very close to all the happenings in here when seated at the long table by the windows. Before, you have an aperitif in the well-stocked wine cellar,

where you are part of choosing the today’s wines. And they are not stingy in this respect!

This experience (five courses including all drinks), which I strongly recommend, costs 265 SFR/US$ for non-Waldhaus guests and 195 SFR/US$ for Waldhaus guests (145 SFR/US$ if you are on half board).

Spa

I have already written a few word about the new spa, significantly expanded a few years ago. It now consists of 1,500 sqm of wellbeing, between water and the surrounding larch forest. The architect team of Miller & Maranta created a modern building that seamlessly mergers with the surroundings. And the existing indoor pool was cleverly included into the construction. There is also a fitness room, with fitness equipment by Technogym. The spa is under the management of a family member, Carla Lehner-Dietrich, from the fifth generation.

On the premises, you find a Finnish and a bio sauna along with steam baths, relaxation rooms, plunge and Kneipp pools as well as Swiss pine and larch relaxation pools. I am not much of a spa goer, but I really enjoyed the later two, which are beneficial after a long skiing or hiking day. And I found that they were appropriate from their size too.

Culture/Events

I already let you know about the hotel’s affinity to culture. For every guest to see, there is the house orchestra. It is a resident trio who plays salon music. And this in the great lounge during tea time and in the evening at the bar. While I find the former a good thing, I am not a particular fan of the latter. At a late hour, they often tend to play light music from days long gone by, which I personally find a bit out of place. But of course, this is a matter of taste.

Furthermore, the Waldhaus hosts and organizes numerous cultural events. Readings and concerts regularly take place here. A highlight is “Resonanzen” (“resonances”), an international cultural festival in September. Here you enjoy first-rate chamber music, readings and lectures.

Overall Hotel Waldhaus Sils Engadine

If you want to spend a few days in the splendid Upper Engadine in the eastern Swiss Alps and care for subdued and laid-back luxury, there is in my opinion no better option in the Saint Moritz area than Hotel Waldhaus Sils. You are close to the  glamorous vacation resort of Saint Moritz but far enough from its hustle and bustle. Here in beautiful natural surroundings above the village of Sils Maria you are more in for tranquility and low-keyness. While the Waldhaus is absolutely suitable for the luxury-minded traveler, it does not feel flashy. In addition, the hotel is relatively affordable and its clientele is more on the distinguished side. Plus, this lodging has been family owned and managed since 1908. And although the Waldhaus is a grand old dame, all the necessary renewals have been done!

What is next?

As we last visited Hotel Waldhaus Sils Engadine in wintertime, my husband and did activities like skiing and winter walking/hiking. And we did two truly beautiful walks/hikes that started right from this hotel. My next post will be about those. Come back and have a look if you are into this kind of activity!  I must claim that these two walks/hikes are the best I have ever done in this respect!

Last stay: February 2023

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Paris is my favorite city in the world, and it certainly is the one I have visited most so far. My husband and I even used to live here for a longer period of time, albeit not together. He worked in Paris for a year. After returning, he got me an apartment for my five-month language course from the same landlady he had. And that was the beginning of our Paris’ love. Since this very moment, we have been going to this city on a regular basis. Our last visit dates from January 2020, and so my husband thought it was time to return. Therefore, he booked another stay here, a surprise for my birthday! To my delight, he chose a new luxury hotel located at my favorite square in town, Place des Vosges. And this was Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris.

And I went on the search for great Michelin (starred) restaurants in the area!

Before letting you know details about how it is staying in style at one of most magical spots in the French capital, a few lines about two other related topics. On the one hand, I want to inform you how Paris has been changing in recent years. On the other hand, you might be interested to learn what to do as a repeat visitor to this city. And this especially if you like walking. As to recommendations for great gourmet dining spots near our hotel of choice, they follow in my next post …

How has Paris changed in recent years?

As I have pointed out above, Paris has been a fixed thing on my travel agenda for many decades. Every few years, my husband and I return to it. And so, I think we have developed quite a good feeling how the city has changed over time. As many other popular destinations, Paris has become more crowded with time. Consequently, we had to find ways how to avoid tourists. We mainly do this by not doing the main sights respectively only “touching them” briefly. This is easy if you like walking. In this case, you can leave the masses of tourists behind you. More to this in the next section, before going into details how it is staying at Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris.

Another thing that has become apparent in later years is that Parisians have turned more and more into some sort of “Anglophiles”. English is now an everyday language in the French capital, and this not only in the tourist industry. It has become increasingly difficult to talk to locals in French, even you have a proper command of this language, as my husband has – I have a bit less so. They may start in French, but often in course of the conversation they change to English, sooner rather than later. And this in a city where their residents would not dream of talking to you in another language than French not so long ago!

A last point worthy of note is the fact that you find fewer cars and much more bikes in the inner city nowadays. While many travelers might welcome this development, it does not have good sides only. First of all, you do not hear them coming. Second, you find bike lanes in many one way streets, and this in the reverse direction. Third, too many cyclists think that they do not have to follow traffic rules, in fact almost all. In consequence, you as pedestrian have to be extremely alert when crossing a street or leaving shortly the sidewalk to pass other people. 

After this short anecdotes to Paris, now how to proceed if you want to avoid the hordes of tourists here.

What to do in Paris as a repeat visitor especially if you like walking?

The solution I am going to propose to you only works if you have already done the major sights here and if you are an avid walker. Hike Paris! For this purpose, buy the possibly best trail guide of Paris, the FFRP TopoGuide Paris … à pied! It is produced by the Fédération Française de la Randonnée Pédestre, the French Hiking Association.

This excellent guide lists three crossings through the French capital. The first goes from west to east (Bois de Boulogne

to Bois de Vincennes), the second from north to south (Parc de la Villette

to Parc de Monsouris). And the third stretches from west to east, crescent shaped and only on the right bank of the Seine (Porte Maillot to Porte Dorée, passing by the Montmartre hill).

These trails mostly follow scenic routes yet without neglecting the big sights. The guide contains detailed maps, pathfinding instructions and a wealth of history, culture and sometimes also wildlife information about the various sections of the trail. Short, it is perfect for your Paris hike!

Unfortunately, the FFRP TopoGuide Paris … à pied is only available in French! But also people with little fluency in French can learn to use it, with just a bit of effort.

My husband and I did all the crossings, at least once. However, we always left away the one or other section. But this does not reduce the pleasure! On our recent stay, we did the second crossing again. One one day, we started in the north and ended in the city center, in the Marais

where we stayed. On the other day, we began in the south and hiked all the way to the Seine and to our hotel on the Place des Vosges. What a great way to experience this city and its variety of neighborhoods! And just in case you should be interested, it took us about four hours to finish these two half trails (what would mean about eight hours for the whole crossing).

But now to where to go for staying in style in Paris. And this at Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris, right by the city’s most beautiful square, Place des Vosges.

Hotel Cour de Vosges Paris, luxury boutique hotel with view of Place des Vosges

Prices of luxury hotels in Paris have been skyrocketing in recent years. While we were able to stay at one of the top accommodations in town just as Le Meurice in 2004, this is no longer an option for us. And this is due to rates that we consider as exaggerated. If you opt for the least expensive room here mid-week in shoulder season you have to spend 1,700€ per night!

As a consequence, we usually go for smaller, not that known and recently renovated four to five star establishments, when looking for lodging in Paris. And this time, my husband indeed had a lucky hand when it comes to finding the perfect gem for a short stay in the French capital. He came across the fabulous Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris that was opened in fall 2019!

If you wonder which location to choose for a hotel in Paris, also check out an earlier post of mine.

Location of Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris

Staying at Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris is all about location! While this accommodation does have lots of other assets, its situation on the glorious Place des Vosges is the most outstanding one! This square in the Marais neighborhood in the city’s fourth Arrondissement is not only Paris’ oldest one (inaugurated in 1612) but certainly also one of its most beautiful.

Strolling under the arcades of the lining mansions

or along the paths of the central garden is such a wonderful thing to do.

The square was built on order of King Henry IV. He had decided that all the pavilions surrounding it should be identical, with two exceptions. Now there are 36 of them, built of brick and stone with high, blue slate roofs. One of them, precisely number 19, is the home of Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris.

Ambiance/Staff at Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris

When standing in front of the hotel, you hardly notice that it is one. At first glance, Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris just looks like its 35 ochre-red siblings. On closer inspection, you notice a sign and a heavy door, wedged between a modernist patisserie

and a traditional brasserie. When entering the 17th-century townhouse, you feel like being in a private home, albeit one with an impressive art collection. There is no reception, just a cabinet containing a computer and room keys.

Staff is very accommodative and kind. They seem to employ lots of predominantly young people working part-time. But you get everything from them you need. Yet this is no hotel for people who need pampering and lots of guiding. There are almost no public spaces onsite. You can have your breakfast in the courtyard behind the street door.

Or you can go to the adjoining patisserie that is part of the hotel for this purpose. By the way, you might have noticed the somewhat unfavorable Google reviews of this hotel. Do not be overly impressed by them as they mostly concern this tearoom, which offers rather pricey pastries.

Rooms/Pricing

As this is a 17th-century townhouse, it is constructed in the typical way of this period. There are four floors (plus the ground floor). The second floor (the so-called Bel Étage) is the one with the highest ceiling. You find here the rooms where guests were hosted at the time. As higher as you go in the building, the lower are the ceilings and the more modest are the rooms. At the top, on the fourth floor, you find the former maids’ quarters.

They kept this traditional room pattern at Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris. At the bottom, you find the Deluxe and Superior Suites, a bit higher the Junior Suites, followed by the Deluxe Rooms. And finally, at the top, there are the Superior Rooms. Prices (room only) start for Superior Rooms (26 sqm) at 750€, for Deluxe Rooms (31 sqm) at 890€, for Junior Suites (31 sqm) at 1,100€, for Superior Suites (40 sqm) at 1,300€ and for Deluxe Suites (55 sqm) at 1,400€. We had opted for a Deluxe Room, find details about it in the following.

Deluxe Room: our choice of room at Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris

As you may have noticed in the section before, staying in style at the Places des Vosges Paris has its price. However, I think that the rates can be justified. There is this mesmerizing view of Place des Vosges that you can enjoy from each room. It intrigues you from the moment the first rays of sun fall on the roofs and facades until the shadows grow longer.

The higher up you go in the building, the more the panorama expands. From the third floor, where my husband and I were, your gaze leads above the top of the linden and horse chestnut trees in the garden, which I found just perfect.

On the other hand, I found the room spacious enough and the decor ravishing!

I loved everything here, from the enormous four-poster bed, the seating area around the former fireplace, the table by the window and the generous bathroom with its stand-alone wash basin and tub. A plus was also the separate toilet with wash basin in an antique style.

Each room is unique. But in all of them you find art books stacked high and crystal decanters with whisky and vodka on vintage bar carts for self-service. In terms of materials and colors, steel and terracotta floors go hand in hand with light brown wallpaper and blue seat cushions. For me, the room’s character was harmonic yet at the same time contrasty.

The one thing that might be disadvantageous is the fact that there is only one small window. As we enjoyed sunny weather all the time, this was no issue to us. But I can imagine that this is different in case of a foggy day. If you care for more light, opt for a room on a lower floor where the windows are much larger.

Services/Other facilities at Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris

I already mentioned where you can have breakfast. Another option would be having it in your room. My husband and I chose to take it on the tearoom’s terrace (there is no in-room dining) every morning. It is a branch of the Brach-La Patisserie

serving sweet treats by pastry chef Yann Brys, who was named Meuilleur Ouvrier de France (best craftsman in France). And the croissants and pains au chocolat are truly excellent. But all the rest was convincing too, served from silverware by mostly pleasant staff.

Apart from the tearoom, which closes in the evening, there is no other spot for having something to drink or eat. But this should be no problem as there are lots of bars and restaurants nearby. And if you crave a drink, there is whisky and vodka in your room,

accompanied by all sorts of non-alcoholic beverages in the well-stocked fridge. There is no nicer thing to do than sipping a drink and contemplating this wonderful square at your feet!

As to your wellness, you can have massages in your room and/or you can use the Roman bath downstairs.

We did not get to trying out the latter, yet it looked tempting.

What is next

After all this info on staying in style at Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris, you will soon learn on my blog where to head for Michelin starred dining in the French capital. Come back later to receive all the details! Also check out my last post about Paris from January 2020 where I informed about three top restaurants, two walks and my two favorite squares! One of the latter ones is of course the before mentioned Place des Vosges. And as to the dining spots mentioned in this blogpost, all three still receive good reviews yet the stars among them are Restaurant Alliance (still has a Michelin star) and Restaurant Contraste (got a Michelin star at the latest awards)!

Date of stay: September 2022

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The flower island of Madeira prides itself to be one of the oldest tourist destinations in the world. And the Reid’s Palace, a Belmond Hotel, is definitely the grand old dame here. It has welcomed guests to its luxury retreat for over a century, among them many famous ones. And it really has something to offer. Be it the setting on cliff tops in subtropical gardens overlooking the sea or the traditional appearance celebrating the hotel’s British heritage. For my husband and me it was clear that we wanted to find out how it is staying and dining at the Reid’s on our second visit to Madeira. When we had traveled to this island for the first time, we had already enjoyed dinner here. And now we wanted the whole experience.

If you care for travel information on Madeira, find here everything you have to know when thinking about coming to this island.

For an overview on where to find a truly luxurious hotel in this destination, head here. Now to the essentials of staying and dining in style at the Reid’s Palace in Madeira.

Location of the Reid’s

As mentioned, the Reid’s setting on craggy cliffs above the Atlantic Ocean is breathtaking! The lush sub-tropical gardens that envelope the property are incredibly beautiful. Strolling here and gazing out at the sea was one of the best things I have experienced at this hotel.

The hotel’s location is favorable, in the west from Funchal’s center and in walking distance to it (22 minutes by foot). And you have splendid views of the water, Funchal and the cruise port – if you like the going-ons at the latter.

History/Renovation

As I informed in my post about where to go in Madeira for luxury hotels, the Reid’s was the first upscale accommodation on this island. It was built by the Scotsman William Reid, who got rich in the Madeiran wine trade. He ordered that the ground be strewn with several tons of rich soil. This in order to create the foundation for the lavish sup-tropical gardens he had planned here.

Unfortunately, he did not live to see his hotel opened to guests in 1891. Instead, his two sons continued his work. The Reid’s family was in charge until 1937. Then the Blandy family of Madeiran winemakers took over. After owning it for almost 60 years, the Blandys sold the property to Orient-Express Hotels in 1996. And in 2014, this company changed its name to Belmond Hotels.

Many illustrious guests have passed through the Reid’s doors. To name a few, Winston Churchill, the British statesman, George Bernard Shaw, the Irish writer, Margaret Thatcher, the first British female prime minster, Gregory Peck, the American actor, or “Sissi”, Empress Elisabeth of Austria, were here in the course of years.

The hotel underwent a thorough renovation in 2006. Guest rooms got an update, and some communal spaces received a new design. Furthermore, a spa was added. While the refurbishment apparently brought a brighter feel to the Reid’s, the respect for its heritage and the period furnishings was maintained.

About the Belmond hotel group

Since the acquisition of the iconic Hotel Cipriani in Venice in 1976, Belmond has continued to expand its portofolio of exclusive properties for staying in style. These include the illustrious Venice Simplon-Orient-Express train or the Hotel Splendido in Portofino.

In 2014, the company changed its name from Orient-Express Hotels Limited to Belmond Limited. In 2019, it joined the world’s leading luxury group LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton.

Ambiance at the Reid’s

As already hinted, the Reid’s Palace in Madeira is a traditional hotel, with everything that entails. The hotel’s English heritage is well remembered. This involves the interiors as well as some old British customs, which are kept alive. There is for example the famed afternoon tea on the terrace or the dinner dances complete with preceding dance classes. Having said that, the ambiance at the Reid’s is not stiff. The hotel exudes a somewhat relaxed elegance. At certain times and places on our stay, the atmosphere was even lively, however never (too) loud.

There seems to be quite a number of repeat guests at the Reid’s, often from the United Kingdom, I suppose. Furthermore, I had the impression that much of the clientele come here for lounging poolside or seaside. Already before breakfast, many of the (best) sun loungers were taken, either in person or with a placeholder. And of course, the latter is a no-no!

Staff/Service

While the service at the Reid’s Palace in Madeira is generally good, there were a few hiccups on our stay. Some staff had the most perfect attitude, others less so. Upon arrival, a nice lady at the reception showed us around the premises and pointed out all the important things to us. Before that, there was no doorman when we arrived by rental car at the hotel entrance. Unsure what to do, we got the luggage to the reception ourselves and had to find someone to tell us what to do with the car (you have to park it yourself at another spot). This is not really the way how you receive arriving guests at a luxury hotel!

What I also found special, was the fact that there was always a queue for the breakfast service. Every morning between 8:30 and 9:00 a.m. you had to wait about a quarter of an hour for an available (outdoor) table. That was not the fault of the gracious lady at the reception desk but because of no vacancies!

Unfortunately, my husband had a medical emergency on our stay and had to be hospitalized. Again, some staff reacted in an exemplary manner (the gentleman who stayed with my husband until the ambulance arrived or the lady at the reception desk who hugged me when I showed up alone for breakfast the following morning). Others did not, in particular an older gentleman at the hotel reception who first was reluctant to help me with arrangements for moving to our next hotel. And last but not least, there was no follow-up from the Reid’s as to how my husband was doing after my departure (my husband was still at the hospital at the time).

I am well aware that my stay at the Reid’s was overshadowed by the events around my husband. However, the true service character is revealed in difficult times, isn’t it?

Rooms/Pricing at the Reid’s Palace

158 rooms are at your disposal at the Reid’s Palace in Madeira. They vary in size and shape due to the old structure of the property. Many of them have sea views but pay attention to the fact that not all the ocean-facing ones feature unobscured views of the water. It may by hidden by trees or bushes. In case you put emphasis on having a sea view, I recommend requesting it at the time of booking. Rooms are available as from about 380 € (in low season).

Some accommodations are in the main building, others in the garden wing. All of them are furnished in an old fashioned yet charming way. And I think they were more refreshed and updated than thoroughly renovated in the last decade or so. Quite a few are rather small, especially the ones in the main building. If you care for more space, opt for a Junior Suite as my husband and I did.

Deluxe Junior Suite

You find this room category either in the main building or in the garden wing and the accommodations come with sea resp. garden view. They are spacious (37 sqm) with a sizable (marble) bathroom

and classic in style. Ours was in the garden wing (on the sixth floor) and featured a generous sitting area and a large balcony with great views of the sea, the gardens and the town of Funchal.

While it was not a state-of-the-art room and only received a light-touch renovation, it was very comfortable. My husband and I felt well at ease here. Local pastries, fresh fruits and Madeira wine were at out disposal.

We paid a daily rate of 900 € for the room including a (delicious) breakfast.

Facilities

As mentioned above, there are wonderful sub-tropical botanical gardens on site, which are great for a stroll. Regarding lounging by the water, there are two heated pools, one with seawater, the other with freshwater.

Alternatively, you can descend the stairs to the sea deck. There is no beach but steps leading straight into the ocean.

In addition, you find two tennis courts, a fitness room and a spa on the premises. We did not use the latter two, so I cannot comment on them. They are not located at the hotel buildings but in a separate one in a secluded corner of the gardens. The spa offers five treatment rooms, a couple’s suite, a solarium and a boutique. For kids, there is a children’s club onsite.

In terms of restaurants, there are four of them.

Restaurants at the Reid’s Palace

The signature restaurant is William, a one-star Michelin dining-spot. On our stay, it was only open on Wednesday evening. Here I enjoyed a tasty five-course tasting menu on one evening.

Then there is Ristorante Villa Cipriani, housed in a neighboring building, where we dined on our first day. We already knew the dining-spot from an earlier visit, quite some years ago. Both times we liked what we got, well-made Italian food with a twist, served in a relaxed ambiance.

The Gastrobar resp. the Terrace is the place to go for small bites in the evening. In the afternoon, you get here the traditional afternoon tea, for which you have to reserve well in advance as it is very popular with outside guests. We did not have dinner here, but once had dessert on the terrace. And of course, I had to try out the fabulous afternoon tea, which delivered what it promised!

If you feel like having a light lunch at the Reid’s Palace in Madeira, then head to the Pool Terrace. We did not eat here either but enjoyed a great breakfast every morning on our five-night stay.

Furthermore, there is also the chance to have a meal at certain locations, outdoors or at the historic Dining Room.

In case you should be interested how to dine in style at (Michelin) restaurants in Funchal, there will be a separate post on my blog in the time to come (including my experiences at the Reid’s Michelin-starred Restaurant William and at Ristorante Villa Cipriani).

Overall

Madeira’s grand old dame, the Reid’s Palace, is still one of the best options to stay in style on the island. If you are into old world charm, then the oldest luxury hotel on the flower island is the place to go. However, be prepared to dig deeper into your pockets for staying at the Reid’s than at other comparable accommodations in Madeira. And you have to be aware of the fact that rooms are more on the charming side than cutting edge. Nonetheless, residing here is quite an experience, immersing in a word long gone. And this without the dust and (mostly) without being stiff or stuffy. It is also a good address for gourmets with one of two Michelin starred establishments on the island.

If you want to know more about dining in style in Funchal, my post after next will go into it. First, I will bring another luxury hotel closer to you, Les Suites at The Cliff Bay, just next door of the Reid’s Palace in Madeira. For an overview of (really) upscale accommodations on this island, I have listed them here. In terms of everything you need to know when thinking about traveling to this island, I have put together all the essentials in a blogpost.

Date of stay: November 2021

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In my last post, I informed about Madeira as a travel destination. Now it is the turn of the luxury hotel landscape on this island in the North Atlantic. I will start with a short account of the beginnings of the hotel industry here. In a second step, there will be an overview of recommended luxury hotels in Madeira. Separate blogposts will cover how it is staying and dining in style at two upscale Madeira accommodations (Reid’s Palace and Les Suites at the Cliff Bay). And to close, yet another post will be about where to head for (Michelin) fine dining on the island (inside and outside of hotels).

Development of Madeira’s luxury hotel industry

How it all started

As I outlined in my post about everything you have to know when traveling to Madeira, this island has a long history of tourism. While it started with therapeutic tourism in the 19th century, it soon became popular for its beautiful scenery and its mild, semi-tropical climate. The latter fact even made it to a year-round destination. In contrast to other destinations in the North Atlantic (Canary Islands), it is not your typical place for beach vacations. Due to the lack of sandy beaches and stable weather conditions it is rather ideal for active travel. Having said that, lounging poolside and seaside is an option here, too. After all, there is a pleasant climate all year round, albeit it is sometimes on the capricious side.

Madeira’s first luxury hotel

The first luxury hotel on the island of Madeira was the Reid’s Palace, set on cliff tops in subtropical gardens overlooking the Atlantic Ocean (my review). This legendary luxury hotel was built by the Scotsman William Reid, who made his fortune in the Madeiran wine trade. It was opened in 1891, shortly after his death, by his two sons. Most of its visitors at the time belonged to the wealthy European – and particularly the British – aristocracy.

What was next

On the back of William Reid’s success, several other hotels followed. Yet beds were still limited until the opening of the airport in 1963. Another grand dame here was the Savoy Classic. It was built in 1912 and was especially frequented by British aristocrats, too. While the Reid’s Palace was able to survive, this was not the case for the Savoy Classic. It became a relic of the past and was torn down in 2008.

For a long time, Madeirans relied on elite tourism. This resulted in a high number of four- and five-star establishments until the 1970s. From then on, the number of hotels catering to middle-classes visitor increased. And the island developed to a highly popular tourist destination. In 2019, there were roughly eight million overnight stays by visitors. The most important countries of origin are the United Kingdom, Germany and France. And Madeira largely escaped mass tourism because people come here not primarily for sea, sun and sand.

Current luxury hotel situation in Madeira

When looking for a five-star hotel around Madeira’s capital of Funchal, you are overwhelmed by the choice. There are more than twenty of them. At a closer inspection, it becomes clear that not all of them will meet the requirements of  a demanding clientele.

In my opinion, quite a few of the five-star establishments on the island do not deserve this classification. The ones in question do not look like luxury hotels and they are not priced accordingly either. To be precise, they are neither luxurious enough nor as pricey as you would expect. In fact, you can reside at a five-star here for a bargain rate.

Nevertheless, there is a number of luxury hotels in Madeira which deliver what they promise. And which will please to discerning guests, as well. I will go into them in the section after next. First, I will give an overview of available five-star hotels on the island.

Overview of luxury hotels in Madeira

First, an introductory remark to hotel names in Madeira. Some accommodations come with the byname of quinta. This is a former mansion that has been converted in a boutique hotel. So, it actually is a historic property. And these quintas are often a bit away from the sea, mostly in the hill tops.

Further it is to be noted that many accommodations in Funchal – not only five-star establishments – are located in a special area. It is called hotel zone and is west from Praça do Infante. You find here concrete palaces and high-rise buildings that grow into the sky. The reason for this – not very attractive – building style is the lack of space. Hotels are usually meant to be as close to the sea as possible. And in Madeira the space between the rocky coast and the mountains framing the bay is limited.

Worth mentioning is also the fact that there is not a single international hotel chain present in Madeira. Sheraton and Holiday Inn used to be here in the 1970s, but not for a long time. Instead, you find on the island – among others – the Pestana brand. This is Portugal’s largest hotel group. There are four Pestana five-star accommodations in Madeira. Furthermore, you find several “quinta hotels” in the luxury segment. And the Spanish hotel group Melia is present, as well (one five-star).

Now I come to those luxury hotels in Funchal and surroundings that I personally consider as “good to go”. These are such ones that offer a true five-star experience and come with good reviews, too (at least 4.5 with TripAdvisor and 9.0 with Booking.com).

“Good to go” luxury hotels in and around Funchal

I start with the ones I have already been resp. their sister hotels. This will be followed by a (short) list of other accommodations that I think will also deliver in terms of being “really luxurious”. Please note that this assessment is solely based on my personal opinion. I do not want to rule out the possibility that there are more of them.

1. Reid’s Palace, a Belmond Hotel (stay in 2021)

Madeira’s grand old dame is still one of the best options to stay in style on the island. And it is probably the most expensive one, at least if you go for a reasonably sized room. Come here if you want to immerse in a long gone era of grandeur, history and glamour. You can still get the feeling how it was in the late 1800s! And its location is unrivaled, dramatically perched on a rugged cliff. The sea is close – just walk down the steps to the sea deck – and the same is true for Funchal’s town center (22 minutes by foot).

Find a detailed review of my recent stay here on my blog soon.

2. Les Suites at The Cliff Bay, PortoBay (stay in 2021)

This new addition to The Cliff Bay (see below) was opened in 2019. You find here suites only, all of them spacious and modernly designed. And there are only 23 of them, most of them in the new wing. Two 100-year-old mansions are also part of the property. As to its location, Les Suites at The Cliff Bay is between The Cliff Bay and the Reid’s Palace, on a cliff top and in walking distance to Funchal’s core (25 minutes).

In case you want to know more about this luxury hotel, one of my next blogposts will go into it.

3. The Cliff Bay, Porto Bay (stay in sister hotel 2021)

Although I have not resided at The Cliff Bay itself, I was able to have a close look at it on my recent stay at its sister hotel Les Suites at Cliff Bay. While this of course did not include the guest rooms, this should be no issue as they all got a new look in 2021. Apropos look, the building’s aesthetics might not be state-of-the-art, as its opening dates back to 1994. Yet it persuades with a top setting on a promontory with sea access and a closeness to the town center of Funchal (28 minutes by foot).

There will be no separate hotel review of this hotel as I have not actually stayed here. Nonetheless, you will find some information about it in my post about Les Suites at Cliff Bay, to be published soon on this blog.

4. Quinta da Casa Branca (stay in 2007)

I stayed here back in 2007 on my first trip to Madeira. At the time, my husband and I together with our teenage son had a great time at this hotel, comprised of a new wing along a historic manor house. And to my amazement, it is still considered to be a top address when looking for staying in style on this island.

Quinta da Casa Branca was opened in 1998. In 2002, a new wing was added – our choice for lodging in 2007 – , which made it Madeira’s first design hotel. And apparently, these accommodations have been refurbished recently. The ones in the manor house are kept in an antique style. The hotel’s best asset is its setting in beautiful botanical gardens, set back from the road.

In terms of location, it is in the immediate neighborhood of the Reid’s Palace and Les Suites at The Cliff Bay. In contrast to them, the Quinta da Casa Branca is on the other side of the road, so there is no sea view to speak of here – and no sea access either. To reach Funchal’s downtown, you need about 26 minutes by foot.

5. Other seemingly “good to go” luxury hotels in Madeira

From what I read and heard, the Savoy Hotels & Resorts promise a genuinely luxurious hotel experience, too. As to five-star establishments, there are three of them in Madeira.

First of all, there is the new Savoy Palace that replaced the Savoy Classic (torn down in 2008). It was opened in 2019 – after some hiccups before its erection. It is the island’s largest hotel, shaped like an undulating wave. And this modern accommodation is the first in Madeira that became a member of the prestigious The Leading Hotels of the World. While it is not directly by the sea, it offers ocean views thanks to its hill setting. And it is favorably located near Funchal’s center (16 minutes by foot).

Next there is the Royal Savoy, opened in the early 2000s. You cannot claim that it is an architectural gem. But what it lacks in style, it makes up with its seaside location and its closeness to Funchal’s core (19 minutes by foot). And Royal Savoy’s guest rooms seem to be in a good shape (newly renovated).

Last on the list is the Savoy Saccharum in the coastal town of Calheta in the west of Madeira. This newly built hotel opened in 2015 on the site of a former sugar cane mill – hence the name. It is a large, contemporary construction, well integrated with the surrounding landscape. The hotel is located seaside – separated by a road – , 38 minutes by car from Funchal’s center.

Looking back and forward

My last post was about all the essential information on Madeira when traveling to this island off the western African coast. The current one went into which luxury hotels in Madeira to choose for (truly) staying in style. In the time to come, there will be reviews of two of the best high-end accommodations, the Reid’s Palace (my review) and Les Suites at The Cliff Bay (my review).

And to end this mini-series, I will inform about where to go for (Michelin) fine dining in this “flower paradise”.

Date of stay: November 2021

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Have you ever heard of the flower island of Madeira? If you are European, you most probably have as it is a highly popular travel destination in the area. If you are American, you may not. Until recently, there was no direct flight from the U.S. to this beautiful mountainous island west of Africa. That changed in November last year, when SATA Azores Airlines launched its first-ever nonstop flight from New York City to Funchal, its capital. If you wonder why you should visit Madeira, I have compiled below all the important information that makes this year-round destination so attractive to (active) travelers.

Before I go into Madeira’s features, first a few lines about my motivation to advertise this island.

My relation to Madeira Island

While I usually write about where to stay and dine in style everywhere I go, I make an exception for this place. And that is because I became such a big fan of this island with its incredible diversity of flora. When I first visited Madeira back in spring 2007, I wanted to come back ever since. It took me 14 years to realize my intention. And this time came end of October last year. And again, I was totally awed by this island with its balmy climate and its lovely scenery.

Hence, I decided to highlight its important features before going into my usual writing about where to go for best luxury hotels and (Michelin) fine dining. Just a small spoiler, it does not disappoint in this aspect neither! And to my asthonisment, staying and and dining in style can be quite affordable in Madeira, too!

Now to everything you need to know about this autonomous Portuguese region. I especially address Americans in this context, who now have the chance to travel here by a nonstop eight-hour flight for the first time ever.

Madeira destination information

First, I will point out a few major facts about this island. Second, there will be more specific information on the individual topics.

What is Madeira known for?

• Madeira is a well-known and established travel destination (for Europeans, four-hour flight from many European countries).
• This island is one of the outermost regions of the European Union (in the North Atlantic off the African coast).
• It is a flower island; you find here a plant richness that is one of a kind.
• This place is a mountainous beauty where south and north side are quite different from each other.
• This autonomous Portuguese region is a year-round destination, the weather is always mild.
• While lounging poolside and oceanside is an option, Madeira is not a place for a conventional beach vacation.
• This destination is rather targeted for active visitors; there is a myriad of activities, especially “levada” walking (levadas are irrigation channels with bank side pathways).
• The island is famous for its historic Madeira wine, which is a fortified resp. liqueur wine
• Madeirans are joyful, hospitable and open-minded; and they have a good to excellent command of English

So much to key sentences about Madeira. Next are more details to the respective points.

Where lies Madeira?

Madeira Island is part of the Madeira Archipelago, along with Porto Santo Island as well as the Desertas and Selvagens Islands. It is in the North Atlantic, 900 km (560 mi) from mainland Portugal, 600 km (375 mi) from the Moroccan coast and 450 km (280 mi) north of the Canary Islands. While Madeira belongs to Portugal, it is an autonomous region. And this island is one of the outermost regions of the European Union.

Funchal – that means fennel bay – , on the island’s south side, is Madeira’s capital. It is by far the biggest town here, where roughly half of its quarter million residents live.

What can you expect in terms of nature and landscape in Madeira?

Madeira’s creation is the result of volcanic activity. It is also called a flower pot due to its form. On both sides of the mountainous island center, there are high plateaus. You find here deep gorges that open up into wide valleys on the coast. Sandy beaches are scarce – and if there are, they are with black sand, because of the island’s volcanic origins. Instead you find lots of jagged cliffs.

When the first settlers arrived in the 15th century, everything was densely wooded. That is the reason why they called it Madeira, which means wood. It was prehistoric laurel wood, which has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1999. The settlers cut down this primary laurel wood almost completely. Nowadays only scant leftovers of it remain. Nevertheless, there is still lots of (secondary) tropical greenery. From 700 to 1,550 m (2,300 ft to 5,090 ft) you find subtropical laurel trees, higher up fern and bushes. Two thirds of the island are under nature protection.

In terms of crop plants, the settlers started with sugar cane. This plant was quickly repressed by vineyards (for the famous Madeiran liquor wine). Other plants just as bananas, maracujas, guavas, papayas and mango were also introduced.

Worth a mention in this context might also be the Dragon Tree. It is endemic only to Madeira, the Canary Islands and Cape Verde. While it used to be abundant in Madeira, the tree population was cut down because of its plant sap, the dragon blood. The red sap was used a coloring agent. Nowadays, you find this tree almost exclusively in the island’s botanical gardens.

Why is Madeira called flower island?

Madeira’s volcanic soil is fertile. In addition, there are humid trade winds that cause a relatively high precipitation throughout the year. Both  together with lots of sunshine results in an incredible diversity of flora. I have already gone into the subject of the laurel forest above. Now, it is the turn of flowers.

Most of the flowers you find here are not endemic. In the 18th century, merchants brought exotic plants from all over the globe to Madeira. And this because the island served as a stopover on their way to England. Here they could acclimatize in the mild climate before they were shipped to their final destination. From South Africa stem the birds of paradise or the torch lily. Japan supplied hydrangea

or orchids.

Mexico was the country of origin of dahlia or zinnia.

If you want to have a close look at Madeira’s sea of flowers, visits to the Madeira Botanical Gardens

and the Monte Palace Tropical Gardens are must-do activities.

The former is a 80,937 sqm (20 acres) property with magnificient views of Funchal. They used to be part of the William Reid’s estate (the owner of the famous Reid’s Hotel). These gardens feature more than 2,000 species of exotic plants and is divided in five different parts. The latter is located even higher up above Funchal in Monte and covers a surface of 68,800 sqm (17 acres). Here you find 1,000 plant species plus one of the largest cycad collections in the world. It is well worth a wander around their maze of pathways.

What is known about Madeira’s history of tourism?

Madeira has a long history of tourism. It all began with its important position on the route to colonies and trading points as from the 15th century. Especially British merchants also set up their own trading firms here. First they traded with sugar, then with wine. And a small but powerful group of British residents in Madeira developed.

After this kind of “colonial tourism” there was a shift to “therapeutic tourism” in the 19th century. Madeira was advertised as health resort whose climate was thought to have positive effects on pulmonic diseases. Britons arrived first, then also people from other nationalities, mainly members of the wealthy European aristocracy. While at the beginning most thought of this island essentially as a therapeutic port, this changed soon. More and more people visited Madeira because of the beautiful scenery and/or in order to spend the winter here.

For a long time, Madeira relied on elite tourism. Until the 1970s, there was a high number of four and five star resorts but few others. From the 1980s, the infrastructure of lower-priced lodging was improved. Today, the island is a highly popular tourist destination with roughly eight million overnight stays by visitors (2019). It is also a favored port on the Atlantic cruising routes. Cruise ships are docked at Funchal’s port every day of the week.

Most visitors come from the United Kingdom, Germany and France.

When is the best time to visit Madeira?

Actually, there is no bad time for visiting the subtropical island of Madeira. The weather is mild all year round, with summer highs of 24°C (75°F) and lows of 17°C (63°F). Winter temperatures are 4°C (39°F) lower. In summer, they may climb up to 30° (86°F), especially in Funchal. Then it might get hot and stuffy in Madeira’s capital, so locals escape to the mountains. Also some waterfalls might dry up in this time. In winter, there is more rain. It may also snow at that time at high altitudes. And you might need a sweater or windbreaker there in summer, as well.

Water temperatures are similar to the air temperatures. From July on, there are pleasant temperatures of 20°C (68°F) to 22°C (72°). And this is until October and sometimes longer. You might even be able to swim in the ocean in December and January.

You have to be aware of the fact that Madeira is not your typical beach vacation destination. This is due – as I mentioned above – to the lack of sandy beaches but also to the weather. In contrast to the stable temperatures, it is capricious. You have to know that there is a clear separating line between the island’s north and south. Bad weather mostly comes from the north, often rain clouds get stuck here. And it rains much more here than in the south. Quite often, you can experience the island interiors and the north only in the morning without rain gear. And weather changes occur fast.

Best travel times to visit Madeira are either spring – when plants are in full bloom – or fall – when it is still possible to swim in the ocean. Yet summer might also be favorable if you do not mind possible heat and humidity (in Funchal).

How do you get to Madeira?

Many European airports have direct flights to Madeira Airport (FNC), which is also known as Cristiano Ronaldo Madeira International Airport. If you wonder about this name, Cristiano Ronaldo is Madeira’s most famous citizen, a very known football/soccer player. The flight time to Madeira is about four hours from a great number of European countries.

From Switzerland for example, Edelweiss offers up to three direct flights from Zurich to Madeira, with a flight time of four hours.

As from November of last year, Madeira launched its first-ever nonstop flight to Funchal from New York City’s John F. Kennedy Airport. And this with SATA Azores Airlines in partnership with Inovtravel, a Portuguese tour operator. The flight time is about eight hours. As far as I know, this connection only takes place in the winter half year.

What kind of activities are possible in Madeira?

I already mentioned that lounging poolside

and oceanside

is possible yet should not be the only reason to visit Madeira (it is no typical beach destination and weather may be capricious). However, it is the ideal place if are into active travel.

The range of possible things to do is wide. One of the most favorite activities is walking/hiking.

There is a unique network of narrow irrigation channels known as levadas at your disposal. They were originally dug to transport water from the rainy north to the dryer south. They are still in use, and their banks also serve as pathways for walkers/hikers. The levadas cover almost the whole island. You even find an urban one in Funchal!

Higher up in the mountains you also find marked trails. You can even climb up to the top of Madeira’s highest mountain, the Pico Ruivo at an altitude of 1,862 m (6,108 ft).

Another recommended trail is a walk/hike on the desert like peninsula in Madeira’s uttermost east.

Apart from walking/hiking there is much more to do: trail running, mountain biking, paragliding, surfing, deep-sea fishing, mountaineering, canyoning, dolphins- and whale watching as well as scuba diving. As to the latter, there is a diverse variety of sea life to watch, including the brown moray eel, giant anemone, Atlantic trumpetfish, yellow barracuda, flaming reef lobsters and zebra sea bream. 

And of course, there are numerous sights not to be missed. I will not go into details here, only to name a few in Funchal and nearby: several botanical gardens, historic old town of Funchal,

coastal fishing village of Cāmara De Lobos;

Cabo Girāo Skywalk, Europe’s highest cliff skywalk,

and so one.

How to get around in Madeira?

Madeira’s road network resembles that of my home country, Switzerland. There are lots of tunnels and elevated highways, which allow rapid travel through peaks. This well–developed road network is a consequence of Portugal’s joining the European Community. In such a way, Madeira got access to correspondent development funds. Having said that, there are still small, steep and curvy roads once you come to the mountains.

The best way to get around is by rental car. I recommend opting for a smaller car. And this is because there are still many mountains roads criss-crossing the island. You will not be able to avoid them if you are on your way to certain trailheads.

The bus network is quite dense, especially around Funchal. You can reach a number of sights by bus. However, be aware of the fact that you will not be able to get to all the interesting spots on the island in this manner.

Are there any other interesting facts about Madeira?

First, the island of Madeira is famous for its Madeira wines, which are liqueur resp. fortified wines. They have an alcohol content of 17 to 22% by volume. You drink them not with food – they are not dinner wines – , but either as aperitif or dessert wines. As to their making, wines are heated first before they are carefully cooled down again. Then you let them mature for at least 18 months.

Second, there are numerous celebrations that take place here, for instance flower, organ, philharmonic and – of course – wine festivals. If you are interested in attending a specific one, check out Madeira’s festival calendar.

At last, some lines to the food you encounter in this autonomous Portuguese region. The cuisine here is healthy and rich. Typical dishes are bife de atum com milho frito (tuna with fried corn), filete de espada (scabbard fish),

espetada (meat skewers), pudim de maracuja (passionfruit pudding) or lapas (limpets).

Other staples are bolo de caco (circular flatbread), bolo de mel (sugarcane honey cake)

or broas de mel (molasses cookies).

And if you want to try the local drink, then you have to ask for a poncha. It is made with aguardente de cana (distilled alcohol made from sugar cane juice), honey, sugar and fruit juices (orange, lemon or other).

What is next on my blog about Madeira?

In case this information has made you more curious about this island, you might also be interested in where to stay on a possible visit to Madeira. This will be the topic of my next blogpost. I will start with a brief glance at the beginning of the island’s hotel industry before going into Madeira’s current luxury hotel landscape. A closer look at two high-end accommodations where I stayed on my recent stay will follow (Reid’s Palace and Les Suites at The Cliff Bay).

And to end my mini series about this island, I will give advice where to go for dining in style when visiting Madeira, either at hotel restaurants or outside.

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Without knowing it, my husband and I dined at one of France’s iconic culinary institutions! Restaurant La Pyramide in Vienne, south of Lyon, was regarded as the country’s greatest restaurant. And this was under the lead of Fernand Point (from 1925 to 1955). He ranks as one of the fathers of French nouvelle cuisine. His most famous apprentice is none other than Paul Bocuse! Nowadays, chef Patrick Henriroux is the chef at Hotel La Pyramide Vienne. While he does of course not have the same status as Fernand Point, he definitely is an extremely talented cook. He has been holding his two-star Michelin rating for 30 years. My husband and I became fast fans of his modern yet intricate cuisine.

Find out how it is staying and dining at Patrick Henriroux’s pleasant Hotel La Pyramide, south of Lyon. My husband and I had chosen this accommodation for our last stop back home from a trip through north Italy and south France. And it turned out to be more than a worthy place to end a great journey! Before coming to our stay’s details, first some lines to the restaurant’s famous history, Patrick Henriroux’s work here and our Italy/France itinerary.

About La Pyramide’s history

Restaurant De La Pyramide in Vienne, south of Lyon, is nothing short of one of France’s legendary temples of gastronomy. And this is because of Fernand Point who was running it for 30 years. He was among the first chefs awarded three Michelin stars (in 1933). When he died in 1955 at the age of 58, his wife Marie-Luise Paulin, “Mado”, took over. She was able to maintain the restaurant’s high standard until her death in 1986.

When Fernand Point started his culinary career, the classic French cuisine was still en vogue, based on Auguste Escoffier. However, Fernand Point seeked change. He revolutionized the traditional French high cuisine by purifying and simplifying it. His modern approach was well received. Soon, La Pyramide became an obligatory stop for Europe’s great families on the Route Nationale 7, the vacation route between Paris and the border with Italy.

His peers called him the king. Paul Bocuse, Alain Chapel or Jean and Pierre Troisgros among others were his apprentices. During his reign over French cuisine there were few important celebrities and serious gourmets who did not make the journey to have dinner at La Pyramide. To this day, this restaurant has been the only one holding three Michelin stars for 53 years!

About Patrick Henriroux Hotel la Pyramide Vienne

After Fernand Point’s wife passed away, their adopted daughter sold the property to an estate company (in 1988), which started a renovation project. They added a 23-bedroom hotel, a new restaurant space, a garden and a covered terrace. And they were looking for a new chef, too. Several ones refused, save an upcoming young chef from the south of France, Patrick Henriroux. He did make a name for himself at Restaurant La Ferme de Mougins near Cannes, where he got a Michelin star.

He started in Vienne in 1989. Seven months later, he got his first Michelin star. In 1992, he earned his second one, which he has been holding ever since. In 1998, Patrick Henriroux and his wife Pascale got the chance to purchase the property and went for it. A year later, the hotel and restaurant became a member of the prestigious Relais & Châteaux hotel group. Standing still is not the couple’s thing. The restaurant has received two facelifts since they bought it. And they opened a casual bistro on the premises, l’Espace PH3. Two of their three children also work in the family business, Leslie Henriroux-Rineau as front office manager and Boris Henriroux as assistant general manager.

As to Patrick Henriroux’s background, he is the son of dairy farmers. In his childhood, he was a great fan of his grandmother’s cooking skills. After finishing hotel school, he worked under several of France’s leading chefs, most notably Georges Blanc. When he came to La Pyramide, he did not want this restaurant going like some sort of museum. Quite the opposite, he did change and evolve on a constant basis. His cooking style is contemporary yet without denying its roots in the traditional French cuisine. The food he prepares is complex, the platings are elaborate and the flavors are authentic. And he makes use of the Rhône valley’s bounty. And of course, you get here also the fine wines from the region.

Trip itinerary northern Italy & southern France

Our 11-day journey through northern Italy and southern France brought us not only to many great hotels but also to such restaurants. When traveling, my husband and I like staying at luxury lodging and dining at gourmet spots. While we do not aim to chase Michelin stars at any price, it usually results in nothing different than counting them at the end of a trip (there were seven this time). It seems we are gourmet travelers who cannot be helped any other way. And it became worse during the pandemic, confined to exploring more or less our backyards. Be it as is may, now to our itinierary. Please note that – despite an occasional splurge – we make sure that we get value for money. We try to avoid paying excessive prices.

We started in northern Italy in the Lake Orta region, near the Swiss border, with staying and dining at Villa Crespi (two Michelin stars, my posts about hotel and activities).

Then we went south, first to Piedmont’s wine region around Alba (Relais San Maurizio, one Michelin star, accommodation/things to do), then to Alassio on the Italian Riviera (Villa della Pergola, one Michelin star, my report plus what do do in the area). After passing the border to France, we stayed at Château Saint-Martin in the French Rivera hills (one Michelin star, hotel/activities). Before we came to Vienne south of Lyon, we had one more halt in the Provence near Les Baux-de-Provence. Here we settled for a relaxed boutique hotel (Hotel B Design with Nancy Bourguignon Restaurant), see my post about it and things to do here.

Staying in style at Patrick Henriroux Hotel La Pyramide Vienne

Location

As mentioned, you find Patrick Henriroux Hotel La Pyramide in Vienne, some 30 km/18 mi south of Lyon, in southeastern France. You reach it by car in about 25 minutes, by train in about 19 minutes from the country’s second largest city. The town is in the Rhône valley on the “Route du Midi” (route to the south), along the famous Route Nationale 7.

Hotel La Pyramide is located south of Vienna’s town center. You get to the latter in a 7-minute-walk. And it is well worth doing this, especially to have a look at the town’s rich historical heritage from Roman times. Do not miss the Roman Temple

or the Roman Theater.

Yet you do not have to go far to see one of the major monuments in this respect. The Roman Pyramid is just in front of Hotel La Pyramide. At the time, it marked the turn of a chariot racetrack. And of course the restaurant/hotel is named after it.

As to its situation, it is set in a residential neighborhood. From its look, it is a small country house in a quiet garden behind a high wall, as it has been for over a hundred years.

Rooms/Pricing

On offer here are 19 rooms, completely renovated in 2005, or 4 apartments. As to the rooms, you can book a Deluxe Room (30 sqm), either with Garden View or without. Rates start from 200 € (without Garden View) resp. 215 € (with Garden View). Apartments are available from 360 € (Standard Apartment, 50 sqm) resp. 400 € (Deluxe Apartment, 50 sqm).

My husband and I went for a Deluxe Room Twin with a Shower,

which cost us 314 € at the beginning of September, midweek. We also opted for the breakfast (30 € per person), which was delicious.

Everything was served and of exceptional quality. While our room was not really spacious, it was cleverly furnished. We had the impression of being in a larger accommodation than the advertised 30 sqm. It was well appointed in a contemporary style and equipped with everything you need for an overnight stay. There was even a sweet treat for us to indulge in. With regard to the bathroom, it was sizable with double sinks and a large shower.

I found the cost–benefit ratio at Hotel Pyramide very favorable!

Ambiance/Staff

Upon arrival, we were cared for by kind and attentive staff. A nice lady (Leslie Henriroux-Rineau?) directed us in the parking lot and accompanied us to the reception area where we got all the necessary information. When we were having a look around on the premises later – the garden is nice – , everyone we met was friendly and helpful. The same was true for our dinner. We were cordially welcomed and seated on the lovely terrace. And here we enjoyed a service that was excellent from start to finish.

The ambiance at Hotel Patrick Henriroux’s La Pyramide was relaxed and unpretentious, throughout our stay. And this cannot be taken for granted in France where upscale dining spots quite often tend to be somewhat stuffy.

Facilities/Restaurants

While La Pyramide has everything for a pleasant short stay, it is not the place with lots of facilities. First and foremost, you come here for the good food. There is a pleasant garden where you can take a few steps, that is it.

I have read about the opportunity to use a nearby fitness room under the website’s section of special offers, but there was no mention of it on our stay. When it comes to restaurants however, you can choose among two of them.

On the one hand, there is the signature dining-spot, the gastronomic Restaurant La Pyramide with Patrick Henriroux’s two-star Michelin cuisine on offer. Find below more details. On the other hand, there is the casual Espace PH3 Bistro,

which was opened in 2009. Here is everything about the number Three, three starters, three main courses, three desserts etc. I liked the style here (we only had breakfast here), it is modern and playful at the same time. And its outdoor area is great, the tables are scattered in the large garden.

After outlining what you can expect in terms of staying at La Pyramide, now to the dinner experience at Patrick Henriroux’s La Pyramide.

Dining in style at Patrick Henriroux 2-star Michelin Restaurant La Pyramide Vienne

Before coming to the food, some words to the setting here. When my husband and I dined here, the weather was nice and hot, so we could eat outside on the pleasant covered terrace.

We were lead through the interior restaurant to reach the outdoor area but I have no picture of it. It is kept contemporary in black, grey and yellow. While the walls, curtains, floor and a part of the chairs are dark, some of the the latter are upholstered in yellow. And the water glasses and some other things are yellow, too. For my taste, I found it a bit on the dark side and slightly bizarre, but it is original for sure. As to the terrace, it is modern, too. They left the beautiful trees but installed a concrete slab floor around them. For me, it is a bit cold. And again, you find the colors of black and yellow here.

Now to the food we had.

Colors-Smells-Flavors Pyramide (3 to 5 courses, 159 to 189 €)

When we dined here on a Monday evening, there was a seven-course tasting menu on offer. You could make your choice out of either five, six or seven courses (159, 176 or 189 €), which – I found – was price wise appropriate. And a cheese selection from a cart and a dessert were an integral part of it.

My husband and I opted for the five-course option. Already when we got the snacks, we knew we were in for a treat!

And that was confirmed when getting the first course, a huge piece of foie gras confit en lobe. There was a transparent cover, made with strawberry juices. And it was paired with blackcurrant puree and a brioche.

Next was a fish course that came in two parts. Frist, there was a monk fish, roasted with semi-salted butter and accompanied by young leek.

Second, we got a mussel from the Bretagne in unison with cream from Etrez in the Bresse region.

Superb!

Before the main dish, we were treated to a surprise course. It was a creamy creation made of goat cheese and tomato,

if I am right.

We proceeded with lamb that stemmed from a registered trademark (Allaiton from Aveyron),

and it was grandiose! It came as a roulade and as a ball. The latter was made of the thinly sliced shoulder part. The meat came in a combination with chickpeas, aromatized with lemon and peppers, and sheep’s yoghurt with green harissa.

Then it was time for cheese! And the cheese selection from the cart

was really impressive, everything from the region!

For dessert, they brought us a separate menu with four propositions in the two categories of “Chocolate” and “Fruits”. And for the interested guests, also the names of the two head patissiers appeared, Anthony Fresnay and Taïra Kawamura. Everything sounded promising, from the Chocolate Piano (new generation, dark and gold sorbet, toasted coffee sauce) to the Rhubarb (au natural, cooked and raw, crystallized violet petal and red shiso yogurt emulsion). My husband and I chose Chocolat Macaé, a dark chocolate soufflé in a sable tartlet and with cream d’Etrez, paired with a cocoa bean juice sorbet. It was heavenly!

The feast was rounded up with two series of petit fours.

The bottom line is simple, it was definitely the best meal of our Italy and France journey!

Overall Patrick Henriroux Hotel La Pyramide Vienne

If you are serious gourmet and look for the ideal stopover halfway between Paris and the French Riviera, then Patrick Henriroux Hotel La Pyramide Vienne is the perfect choice. It is located south of Lyon just off the north/south highway, the famous Route Nationale 7.

You find here not only a foodie destination, the two-Michelin starred La Pyramide Restaurant, but also super friendly hosts. In addition, there are comfortable, modernly furnished guest rooms, reasonably rated, at your disposal. If you are into the mood of a lighter, less formal dinner, then maybe opt for the casual bistro on the premises.

And while enjoying your meal in either of those places, let your thoughts wander to the time when the legendary chef Fernand Point was in charge here. He is regarded as one of the fathers of the French nouvelle cuisine and established at this very spot one of France’s greatest restaurants ever.

Looking back and forward

This is the last of of 11 posts about a 11-day trip that my husband and I took in northern Italy and southern France. This journey brought us not only to the Italian regions of Piedmont and Liguria, followed by the French Riviera and the Provence, but also to some of the best luxury hotels and Michelin star restaurants in these areas. While it was not our primary goal to dine at as many Michelin starred dining-spots as possible, we managed – to our amazement – seven Michelin stars in total!

What is next in terms of travel? After this first longer trip abroad to Italy and France, my husband and I boarded an airplane again after a Corona imposed time out of two years! And it was due to Madeira, Portugal’s island in the North Atlantic Ocean off the African coast.

I will report about this place in general before going into where to head here for staying and dining in style.

Date of stay: September 2021

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The post Gourmet break at the legendary La Pyramide in Vienne/France first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Gourmet break at the legendary La Pyramide in Vienne/France appeared first on Swiss Traveler.