Finally we come to the last part of a North and Central France trip done in late summer 2024. This is the France west-east crossing from the Brittany – which was the actual focus and part two – back to Switzerland where my husband and I live. We did so by taking the route via Cognac, the Dordogne and the Cantal. As to part one, that was about our way from home to Brittany, which led over the Champagne and the Normandy, and where I gave an outline of the whole journey. My reporting includes the itinerary with some of the most important things to do everywhere we went plus the one or other walking suggestion. Furthermore, I let you know where to head for best (luxury) hotels and (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants, here in this post it is about Cognac, the Dordogne and the Cantal.

Before I come to these three places, find in the following again my Google Map with our North and Central France itinerary plus all our (luxury) hotels and the (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants en route:

From place to place in North and Central France, part III, Cognac, Dordogne & Cantal

1. Cognac north of Bordeaux

About Cognac

The town of Cognac in the Charente Departement is about two hours by car north of Bordeaux. It is famous for one of the world’s best-known type of brandy. To label a spirit Cognac, it must be from a certain area and strictly made according to regulations (double-distilled). A bit like in the Champagne, you can visit the “Grande Marque” Cognac houses to view the process and to taste it.

Otherwise, in my view Cognac does not have much to offer in kind of attractions. The location on the Charente river is nice but that is it.

I found the town and even its historic center not that special. Yet it makes a great stopover for luxury traveler as you can find here two of the best luxury hotels in the area, Hotel Chais Monnet & Spa and Hotel La Nauve. While the former is in town, the latter is in Cognac’s surroundings.

Our hotel: La Nauve Cognac

My husband and I opted for the newer one of the mentioned luxury hotels, La Nauve, opened in summer 2023. And that was a great decision! It is idyllically located in a former Cognac distillery and mansion a few minutes by car from Cognac. What a beauty La Nauve is!

It is wonderfully restored with the finest materials.

Though, I considered it as impractical in many aspects, especially as far our room was concerned (Prestige Room, 33-38 sqm, No. 10, 696€ per night with breakfast, out of 12 in total). Without going in details, it was adorable from its looks, and there was a huge outdoor area too.

The breakfast was fantastic, served in the library (on inadequate chairs for the occasion).

Staff was faultless, and there are two great restaurants onsite (see below). You find here also a large garden, a bar and an outdoor pool.

Our restaurants: both at Hotel La Nauve in Cognac

We did not venture out of the hotel as I thought that both in-house dining spots made a good impression. And I was right so, both belong to the best restaurants you can find in Cognac! First I come to the casual bistro and then to the elegant gourmet dining spot, both led by chef Anthony Carballo. And pastry chef (Simon Souchaud) is a genius, I adored his varying brioches!

a) Brasserie des Flâneurs Cognac

This was one of the few restaurants on our journey through France that was not Michelin listed (although it would have deserved the award). It is situated in an annexe – that used to be the estate’s distillery – and has a modern, casual vibe.

Staff was unobtrusive but friendly. And the place seems to draw quite a number of locals. They serve modern international food, expertly prepared. Prices are at a medium level (starters from 16 to 19€, mains from 25 to 30€ and desserts around 10€).

b) Notes, gourmet restaurant, Cognac

The Michelin listed Notes is quite different from the above eatery. It is a refined dining establishment in an intimate part of the main manor.

You can make your choice between two tasting menus, one with four and the other with seven courses. I found them adequately priced, fitting the upscale setting at La Nauve (on our evening 80 and 120€). The ambiance is sophisticated and the staff, especially the head server, was top notch on our dinner. And the food – modern French cuisine – was sublime, in my view even worthy a Michelin star.

2. The Dordogne aka the Périgord

About the Dordogne/Périgord

The Dordogne department ist often called by its old name, the Périgord. The former is clearly a territorial designation (the river Dordogne). The Périgord is a historical name, it dates back to Roman times and represented the old province at the time. Yet both stand for a lovely landscape full of medieval castles, prehistoric caves and fortified villages.

The main town is Périgueux, boasting a charming old town with 2,000 years of history.

Then there are lots of villages that are part of the Les plus Beaux Villages de France (the most beautiful villages in France). Quite a few are around Sarlat, in the Black Périgord, the most popular part for visitors. I name here La Roque Gageac,

Beynac et Cazenac, Castelnaud la Chapelle or Dome. Plus, you find in the Dordogne also Jardins Remarquables (remarkable gardens), one of the more popular is Jardin du Manor d’Eyrignac.

While everything is very nice to look at, it is also quite busy (many large groups of bus tourists). To avoid the crowds, we did a nice walk/hike from La Roque Gageac to the Castelnaud La Chapelle Castle along the Dordogne, here is the link to the track on Outdooractive.

Our hotel: Domaine de Rochebois in Vitrac

Upfront I have to mention that we found it hard to select an accommodation to stay in style in the Dordogne. In search of best hotels here, you are somewhat lost. Really good luxury lodging is a rarity in this area. And our choice after much consideration turned out to be suboptimal. While Domaine de Rochebois is a beautiful property, it feels somewhat neglected.

From what I read, the hotel experienced quite some changes (opened in 1993, reopened in 2022 after a closure of 10 years, sold in 2024). On our stay, the restaurant and the golf course were closed. The room we had (Junior Suite Prestige, No. 212, 50 sqm, 514€ per night with breakfast, 40 rooms in total) had been updated not so long ago but already felt a bit dated. The same was true for the outdoor area (mossy cushions).

Staff was friendly, and the breakfast was okay. Onsite, you also find an outdoor pool and a spa. There is a bar too, yet it felt dreary.

Our restaurants: Ô Moulin in Carsac-Aillac & O’Plaisir des Sens in La Roque Gageac

If you are looking for best restaurants in the Dordogne, specifically in the so called Black Périgord, there is no way around the following two establishments.

a) Ô Moulin in Carsac-Aillac

We were much in favor of this small restaurant with a Michelin Bib Gourmand, opened in 2018. It is idyllically located in a former water-powered sawmill. The attentive lady of the house – Cécile Guérin – welcomed us and ushered us in the contemporary, casual dining room.

Her partner, Nicolas Aujoux, celebrates a modern French cuisine and occasionally also served plates on our dinner. You can choose among there tasting menus (3/3/6 courses 42/57/82€) and also dine à la carte, what we did. We had a fabulous duo of duck liver and turbot fillet, also the desserts were persuasive.

And the host even exchanged a few sentences with us, which was nice.

b) O’Plaisir des Sens in La Roque Gageac

At O’Plaisir des Sens, Bruno (chef) and Lydia Marien (host) have been at work here since 2015. The chef’s cooking expertise is evident, the restaurant is Michelin listed. His cuisine is classic, although with a modern twist. As far as the dining spot’s appearance is concerned, it is somewhat eclectic.

And the service on our dinner was down to earth, at times not quite seamless, e.g. when the host served cheese from the trolley. Plus, the business is a family affair, on our visit a daughter helped out in the service. Food wise, you have several options. Either you can choose one of three tasting menus (3/4/4 courses at 48/69/85€) or dine à la carte. We had the “the golden middle-menu”, which was fine, although a bit awkwardly composed (white beans with bacon, a delicious duck liver, sweetbread and a peach dessert).

3. Cantal, Auvergne/Aubrac Plateau

About Cantal, Auvergne/Aubrac Plateau

The Cantal mountain range respectively the Aubrac plateau are not necessarily places you know as foreign travelers. My husband and I ended up here because we had been looking for a stopover on our way from the Dordogne back to Switzerland. And imagine, we enjoyed here not only the culinary highlight, but also one of the best hotels stays of the whole trip. But more to how to travel in style further below.

If you are wondering where exactly we were, it was the town of Chaudes-Aigues.

It is located in the Massif Central in the heart of France, between the Cantal mountain range and the Aubrac plateau. The area is sparsely populated and geographically isolated. Much of Cantal is about pasture for the cattle – among other the old breed of Aubrac – and sheep. And this is because the climate is usually too cold and damp for grain. And we well noticed this on a walk we did in the area (link to the track on Outdooractive).

Regarding Chaudes-Aigues, it is a spa resort with more than 30 hot springs across the town. And the most famous is the Par Spring, which is the warmest natural one in whole Europe! As to natural beauties in the surroundings, there are the Aubrac Regional Nature Park, the Laussac Peninsula or the Truyère Gorges. A town you might have heard of is Laguiole where you find many companies that manufacture the famous Laguiole knives. In addition, it is a pretty village too.

Our hotel/restaurant in Cantal: Serge Vieira

My husband and I came to the Cantal region not because of the hot springs or the natural beauties, but because of the two-star Michelin Restaurant Serge Vieira. On our “mission” of finding the best restaurants everywhere we go, we stranded in this remote place. And fortunately, this highly decorated dining spot comes with accommodation options too. You can either stay at three rooms at the Couffour Castle (Restaurant Serge Vieira)

or at 18 rooms at their second place, Hotel Sodade, down in Chaudes-Aigues. Here in town, you also find Restaurant Sodade with a Michelin Bib Gourmand. I think that these establishments belong to the best what you can find in terms of upscale hotels and restaurants in the near and further area.

a) Stay at Serge Vieira at Couffour Castle

As I mentioned above, we experienced not only culinary delights at Serge Vieira but also a great hotel stay. Out of the three rooms available at Couffour Castle we opted for the “Yellow Room” (about 30 sqm, 415€ with continental breakfast). Yet I think all three have the same layout. We liked what we encountered, a modern and generously sized accommodation with an outdoor area for viewing the peaceful rural scenery.

What I very much appreciated was that the room came with two financier-pastries on both days of our stay. And the breakfast was out of this world!

Plus, Marie-Aude Vieira is the best host you could wish for.

b) Restaurant Serge Vieira, the best restaurant of our France journey

There is a sad back story behind this establishment. This is because the two-star Michelin chef Serge Vieira died of cancer at the age of 46 in mid 2023. Before he had built up with his wife Marie-Aude a successful restaurant and hotel business (Restaurant Serge Vieira at Couffour Castle from 2009 as well as Hotel and Restaurant Sodade from 2019). After her husband’s death, Marie-Aude Vieira took over. She did this with the help of a long-time friend of the family, Aurélien Gransagne. He runs the kitchen and she the dining room. I must say, we had the most exceptional dinners here – we ate here two evenings in a row (originally, we wanted to have the second one at Restaurant Sodade).

While I cannot judge Serge Vieira’s cuisine, I was delighted by Aurélien Gransagne’s inspired and truly unique dishes. You can choose between two menus: M for Marie-Aude at 235€ (6 courses) and S for Serge at 135€ (4 courses). Among other delicacies we had the most formidable lobster paired with corn or a dessert creation made of figs and almonds.

We enjoyed this in the ultra-modern dining room with picture windows to take in the views.

And this well cared for by the amiable host and her team.

Looking back to road trip in North & Central France in style (part I & II)

Here it was about the last part (three) of a North and Central France trip my husband and I did recently. It regards the itinerary from Cognac over the Dordogne to the Cantal, which was our way home to Switzerland from the Brittany. The start (part one) made the opposite direction, from our home country to our actual main destination. The voyage went first to the Champagne, then to the Normandy. And part two focused on the journey’s centerpiece, the Brittany.

Date of stay: September 2024

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The post 19 days on the road in North & Central France in style – PART III way from Brittany to Switzerland first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post 19 days on the road in North & Central France in style – PART III way from Brittany to Switzerland appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Now it is about the Brittany, the main focus of a road trip in North and Central France that my husband and I did in late summer 2024. To get here from our home country of Switzerland we travelled via the Champagne and the Normandy. Part one of my mini-series about the voyage went into it – and also gave an overview of the whole journey. In this very post, I concentrate on the Brittany. And part three – soon to appear on my blog – focuses on our way home from the Brittany that lead us to Cognac, the Dordogne and Cantal. In all three posts, I inform about the itinerary including the major sights and some walking suggestions. And I let you know where to go for best (luxury) hotels and (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants; here as mentioned it is about Brittany.

Before diving into the Brittany, first again my Google Map with our North and Central France itinerary plus all the (luxury) hotels and the Michelin fine-dining restaurants we were:

From place to place in North & Central France, part II, Brittany

Brittany: Dinard, Perros-Guirec & Sainte-Marine/Combrit

As you have learnt by now, Brittany was our trip’s main focus. We totally spent twelve nights here, four in each spot. The start made two places on the north coast, first Dinard, in the region’s northeast. Perros-Guirec, in the northwest followed. And Sainte-Marine/Combrit near Quimper on the west coast and at the same time in Brittany’s southwest made the end.

About Brittany

Walking/Hiking on GR 34

What I found brillant about Brittany is the fact that there is a walking/hiking trail running the entire coastline (GR 34). And this Sentier des Douaniers (Customs Trail) is about 2,000 km/ 1,243 mi long. Not that my husband and I did overly long tours, but we picked out the one or other stretch of track at every place we stayed. As to Dinard, I was fond of the walk from Dinard to Saint-Lunaire (link track Outdooractive). Around Perros-Guirec, I absolutely adored the trail from Sainte-Anne to Bringuiller (link track Outdooractive).

And in the department Finistère (around Quimper) the walk/hike on the Crozon peninsula was nice (link track Outdooractive).

Town hopping in Brittany

Of course, there is also much to in Brittany in case you do not want to walk or hike. We visited quite a numbers of towns and especially liked the following ones. I list them from northeast to southwest. Cancale is a pretty port and famous for its oysters.

And  I think we came across the most beautiful villages in Brittany just before reaching it on our way from Honfleur. Saint-Malo is a fascinating granite city with its impressive rampart but unfortunately overtouristed. Dinard – nicknamed “Cannes of the north” – is an absolute beauty with its numerous Belle Époque villas.

More to Brittany’s west, Tréguier is worth a quick visit with its huge cathedral, the beautiful narrow streets and little squares. Perros-Guirec is a charming small seaside resort with a relaxed feel.

The nearby Ploumanac’h is famous for its imposing, pink granite rocks. Lannion is a historic town with pretty houses and small paved streets.

In the region’s south, Quimper has not only a majestic cathedral but also a nice historical district. Plus it has a distinctive Breton Celtic character.

Concarnau is a small walled town, which is nice but very touristy (one of the most visited places in Brittany). As far as I am concerned, I liked the nearby Pont-Aven better, famous for its colony of painters in the 19th century. It is picturesquely nestled on the banks of the Aven river with enchanting alleys in the old town.

Our hotels in Brittany: Castelbrac Dinard, L’Agapa Perros-Guirec & Villa Tri Men Sainte-Marine/Combrit

Now it is about the three (luxury) hotels we had in Brittany, which I regard as the possibly best you can find here. While the first two (Castelbrac and L’Agapa) are five-star establishments, the last (Villa Tri Men) is a four-star. Whereas the guest experience at Castelbrac was as perfect as it gets, this was not so at L’Agapa. Let me be straight, for me this accommodation is no real luxury hotel, it is rather a four-star. And I did not really warm to its vibe, which I found a bit old-fashioned. Hotel Castel Beau Site, a bit more in the west, might be a (better) alternative (built 1928, opened 2020, 28 rooms, 4-star). As to Villa Tri Men, it definitely is a four-star, yet one with an upscale ambiance. Now, to some more details to each of these three lodgings.

Castelbrac Dinard

This was the most upscale hotel of our voyage and also the best overall experience we had! It has a favourable position in Dinard, right on the beachfront promenade.

It was opened in 2015 in a historic building that used to house a museum of natural history. Now, there are 25 guest rooms looking out over the water, many with terraces, just as ours, which was huge (Prestige Room Terrace Sea View, 40 sqm, No. 4, 772€ per night with breakfast & one drink). Their style is refined yet laid-back, with Art Deco features.

Staff did a really good job, and we were served the most lovely breakfast.

Furthermore, you find here a bar, transformed from the museum’s former aquarium, and a Michelin-star restaurant (details follow below). But not enough, Castelbrac also has an outdoor pool, a small chapel and a vintage motorboat for excursions.

L’Agapa Perros-Guirec

As mentioned above, our stay here turned out to be a bit of a deception. The hotel is big for the area, where lodging tends to be small-scale (45 rooms).

It was opened in 2005 with some renovations made in the meantime. We had booked a room in one of the two annexes (Deluxe la Désirade, 45 sqm, No. 72, 384€ per night with breakfast & half a bottle of Champagne). It had a nice sea view and a generous layout, but I found it cheaply built. And it was musty, especially the bathroom, which would otherwise have been quite attractive.

Other facilities included a bar, a Michelin listed restaurant (details see below) and a spa. Breakfast was okay, as was the staff. In favor of L’Agapa must be mentioned that their pricing is reasonable. Plus, they replaced the Champagne in our room daily.

Villa Tri Men Sainte-Marine/Combrit

My husband and I felt comfortable at this elegant 19th century villa overlooking Sainte-Marine’s port. It is most probably the only bigh-end property in the area, especially if you value good reviews.

While the room we had was small and understated (Cottage, 25 sqm, No. 21, 384€ per night with breakfast), it was not a problem for us. Yet none of the 19 rooms at Villa Tri Men are large (opened in 2003, renovated in 2017/18). The bathroom at the cottage was quite spacious. Unfortunately, it had a slight moisture issue, but it was manageable. Plus, we had a nice outdoor area with a river view, as the only one of three cottages in total.

Onsite your find a bar and a Michelin starred dining spot (more info follows). And there is a second restaurant affiliated to the hotel down at the port (Michelin listed, details below). Staff is friendly and helpful, and a good breakfast is served here.

Our best restaurants in Brittany: my ranking

We dined at quite a number of fine-dining restaurants in Brittany on our nine-night stay. I will rank the dining spots we were in descending order of my fondness. And as longer this section goes, the shorter my recounting of the dining experience becomes. Frankly, none of the eateries – all listed in the Michelin guide – disappointed. Some showed weaknesses regarding the service or the concept, yet the food was always good or even excellent.

My No. 1 restaurant in Brittany: Les Trois Rochers Sainte-Marine/Combrit

My absolute favourite in terms of best restaurants in Brittany was the one-Michelin Les Trois Rochers in Sainte-Marine/Combrit near Quimper. Here Frédéric Claquin has been in charge since 2003, awarded a Michelin star since 2016. He celebrates a creative seafood cuisine blended with spices from around the world. The setting is nice, a modernly furnished dining room with picture windows to view the beautiful port scenery.

Three tasting menus are on offer: 3-course 67€ (weekdays only), 4-course 99€ and 6-course 142€. We opted for the whole shebang as we celebrated my birthday. And it was a delectable culinary journey from A to Z, delivered by competent and warm staff.

My No. 2 dining spot in Brittany: La Table de mon Père Perros-Guirec

This Michelin listed place is the hotel restaurant of Castel Beau Site I mentioned above. My husband and I enjoyed a fabulous meal here in a contemporary-chic setting. And this with a stunning view of the St. Guirec Beach.

At work here is Nicolas Le Luyer, a true Breton. He has featured a modern cuisine and has showcased local produce since 2013. On offer at La Table de mon Père is a 3-course menu of the moment for 59€. Furthermore, there are two tasting menus, 4/6 courses for 89/109€. And you can also order à la carte, what we did. As a main course, we had pork filet in unison with local sea snails (42€), which was a delight! The standard of service was pretty good, although not completely faultless.

My No. 3 eatery in Brittany: Éclosion in Quimper

This is an urban gourmet restaurant at its best! Éclosion, awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand, was a real find for us. Not only got we contemporary food with a foreign twist at moderate prices, but also the service was very persuasive. Marion Pelletan is responsible for the dining-room, and this with lots of competence and and passion.

Thibault Le Goff in in charge of the open kitchen. And they have been doing this since early 2023. The menu includes three starters, mains and desserts each, from which you can compose a 3-/4-course menu (38€/45€). The setting is nice, modern and inviting at the same time. A must-do restaurant in case you come to Quimper!

My No. 4 restaurant in Brittany: Pourquoi Pas in Dinard

Pourquoi Pas is the “hotel restaurant” at the five-star Castelbrac. It has been holding a Michelin star since 2019, and this under the lead of  Julien Hennote. He is Breton yet a well travelled one. In the kitchen, he favors local produce and sustainable coastal fishing. You get here a 4-/6-/8-course menu (80/100/120€). On our dinner here, we had a lobster menu. It included six dishes, which were all inventive and well-made, though we found the main special. It was a lobster tail on sausage slices, which we considered a strange pairing. Yet the desserts were fantastic. And we also got a goodie, a financier with algae. This may sound awkward, but it was very tasty! Had it not been for the the somewhat awkward main dish, this dining spot would have topped our ranking of best restaurants in Brittany.

Service was good as was the ambiance at this elegant and stylish dining spot with its wonderful view of the Saint-Malo Bay.

My No. 5 to 8 dining spots in Brittany

Two more Dinard dining spots follow in my ranking of best restaurants in Brittany, both Michelin listed. This is about Ombelle and Didier Méril. While the former is modern and casual,

the latter is traditional and elegant, yet both with sea view.

Whereas Ombelle is reasonably priced, Didier Méril seems rather pricy for the area. Staff at both establishments left a mixed impression. However, the two of them offered quite a good food experience.

No. 7 is Le Bélouga in Perros-Guirec and No. 8 Bistrot du Bac in Sainte-Marine/Combrit, both included in the Michelin guide. The former is a hotel restaurant with a great sea view yet with quite a chilly atmosphere.

The service was so-so, however the food was persuasive (bistronomic and moderately priced, especially on Sunday and Monday).

The latter is a hotel restaurant too, but not your typical one. Instead, it is a real bistro

with fresh and simple seafood dishes (sole was great).

And the setting on a small port is lovely.

Looking back and forth to road trip in North & Central France in style (part I & III)

This very post went into the centerpiece of our North and Central France trip, the Brittany. To summarize, part one (last blogpost) was about our way from Switzerland to the Brittany. It went to the Champagne first, followed by the Normandy. Soon on my blog, you will find part three (the last of this mini-series), highlighting the route we took when returning home from the Brittany. We did so via Cognac, the Dordogne and the Cantal.

Date of stay: September 2024

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The post 19 days on the road in North & Central France in style – PART II Brittany (main destination) first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post 19 days on the road in North & Central France in style – PART II Brittany (main destination) appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

A long held plan came true in late summer 2024, when my husband and I set off on an extended journey through France. Not that we have not travelled our beautiful neighboring country in the recent past, but mostly for a few days only. This time we wanted to do a longer trip to France, and this by car. Its main focus should be the Brittany. As we started from northwestern Switzerland, this meant that we had to build in at least one stopover. And the same is true for the way back. So in the end, a 19-day voyage resulted. Before arriving in the Brittany, we made two stops (Champagne & Normandy). The return way lead via Cognac, the Dordogne and the Cantal/Auvergne. As always when traveling, we kept an eye out for best luxury hotels and (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants worth the money spent on them. Here in this post it is about part one, an outline of the the whole journey and the route to Brittany, leading to the Champagne and Honfleur/Normandy.

Before coming to our 19-day itinerary for North and Central France in style, there is something else. It concerns the sort of content you may expect in this context.

What is next about the North & Central France journey in the time to come?

Actually, I wanted to provide quite a number of blogposts about our extended trip through France’s north and center. And they should follow right after this one outlining our itinerary. I used to to do this on my blog for many voyages in the past. This time, it will be a little bit different. This is because my husband and I already did another longer road trip in the meantime. It went to the Peloponnese and Athens in Greece. So, I want to keep my France travel recount shorter. That means to focus on the essentials such as what to do and where do go for best hotels and restaurants (part one: Champagne & Honfleur). I might pick out one or another topic and dwell on it later. Yet this would be after letting you know about our Greece journey just in the way I do it here for the North and Central France. It makes no sense for me to always fall behind with my trip reporting. And the next voyage is already approaching!

19 days on the road from Switzerland to Brittany and back with several before-and-after stops

It was not the first Brittany trip that my husband and I undertook this late summer. Back in the 90s, we already spent two weeks in the area. So, we decided to leave away most places that we went to at the time. This is true for some of the most visited spots too, Mont-Saint-Michel or Pointe du Raz. Notwithstanding, there are more than enough things to do. Here is my Google Map with our North and Central France itinerary plus all the (luxury) hotels and the Michelin fine-dining restaurants we were:

As mentioned, the journey’s first stop was in the Champagne region where we stayed in Épernay. From here, we continued to Honfleur in Normandy. Next was the first of three stays in Brittany. It took place in Dinard. Perros-Guirec, another town on France’s north coast followed. Then, we moved on to the country’s west coast, to Sainte-Marine/Combrit close to Quimper.

After leaving Brittany, we headed further south to Cognac, where the famous spirit of the same name comes from, a type of brandy made of grapes. The next stop was in the Dordogne (Vitrac), also known under its old name of Périgord. From here, we drove on to the Cantal department, which is located in the heart of France. Here we lodged at Chaudes-Aigues. Originally, we had planned one more stop in the French Jura. Yet we cancelled it at the last moment and directly returned to Switzerland from Cantal, which was quite a stretch to drive.

Now to some information about the individual stops on our North and Central France itinerary. This includes things to do with a couple of walking suggestions. And you learn about where to go for staying and dining in style. As there is quite a lot of material, I need to break my reporting down in three parts. I start in this blogpost with part one, the Champagne and Honfleur/Normandy (best activities, hotels and restaurants). The next one will be about the Brittany and the third part about Cognac, the Dordogne and Cantal.

From place to place in North & Central France, part I, Champagne & Normandy (best activities, hotels & restaurants)

1. Champagne Épernay

About the Champagne

Champagne is undoubtedly France’s most famous fizz, if not the world’s! This wine-making region is on Paris’ northeast side, with the towns of Reims and Épernay often used as a visitors’ base. For sure, you want to visit a Champagne House when being in the area, so book your slot in advance. If the question should arise which one to choose, this is difficult because there are numerous! My husband and I visited the biodynamic Leclerc Briant Champagne House because we stayed at their hotel, a family house in the middle of Épernay (see below).

While Reims is a bigger town (population of about 180,000), Épernay is much smaller (22,000 inhabitants). Both have their charms. Reims boasts a nice old town and a splendid cathedral. The special feature of Épernay is the Avenue de Champagne. It has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2015. Here one Champagner House comes after another. And attached to them are bars and restaurants where you can taste the Houses’ finest cuvées, sometimes paired with culinary delicacies.

Our hotel: Le 25Bis by Leclerc Briant Épernay

For our two-day stay in the Champagne, my husband and I chose Le 25Bis by Leclerc Briant (Champagne House), opened in 2019. With its five rooms only, this former 18th century family home makes for an intimate stay. As it is located on the prestigious Avenue de Champagne, this luxury guest house comes with a Champagne shop and a terrace to try the House’s cuvées.

As to its interiors, it is a mix between old and new. Each room is different from each other. We opted for Room No. 3, which I personally find the best as it overlooks the (quiet) rear of the house with the garden. It is spacious (47 sqm), with a lovely seating area and quite a large bathroom.

And Le 25Bis by Leclerc Briant is a heaven for Champagne lovers! Not only were we treated a small bottle of their exquisite Champagne and cookies in our room, but we also got a glass of it every morning at breakfast! The room rate per night was 425€ (with breakfast), which we found adequate. A delightful little breakfast was included, prepared on site (behind the bar) by friendly staff.

Our restaurants: Bulles & Bonheur and Symbiose, both in Épernay

a) Bulles & Bonheur Épernay

I really wanted to have a dinner with a Champagne pairing and came across the Champagne producer of Élodie D. This is about a female wine growing business in the fourth generation. As to their restaurant, two tasting menus are on offer. The five-course Menu Élodie (wine grower) amounts to 70€ without and to 130€ with the Champagne pairing (5 glasses). Menu Fabrice (her husband), which we had, includes seven courses and costs 110€. Together with the Champagne pairing (five glasses) the total expense is 200€. As to the food, you get here immaculately prepared modern French cuisine, nicely presented, in pleasant surroundings.

Fabrice was present on our dinner and this together with a fifth generation member, the couple’s lovely daughter. She helped out with the service although being only about ten years old. And she did a good job just as the rest of the staff! In terms of Champagne, you get different cuvées of the Champagne Élodie D. and also old vintages of the Champagne Desbordes-Amiaud. We liked both of them, although the latter is a Champagne of a different kind. We found that it almost tasted like a port wine.

b) Symbiose Épernay

Symbiose is a small eatery in Épernay’s town center where Maxine Moret (chef) and his wife Justine (host) are in charge. On offer is a contemporary cuisine (Michelin listed). Although Justine was not present 0n our evening, we felt well cared for on our dinner. The modernly styled dining room feels pleasant.

In terms of food, there are three starters, two mains, cheese and two dessert available. Out of this offer, you can compose two menus (4-/5-course at 54/70€) or order à la carte. Everything we got – we opted for the 4-course version – was great! I liked it that the cuisine was not only modern but also light. Maybe the service was a bit slow-paced, but I think the chef was alone in the kitchen.

2. Honfleur Normandy

About Normandy

Normandy has lots to offer as to things to do. Its most popular attraction is of course the Mont-Saint-Michel Bay – a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979. Although it is overrun by tourists, it is worth visiting. Another must-do is exploring the different landscapes along the Alabaster Coast. There is the GR21 hiking trail running all the way from Le Havre to Le Tréport. Its most beautiful part is probably around Étretat with its beautiful cliffs – unfortunately overtouristed too. And if you are a history buff, the D-day beaches might be your thing.

As my husband and I already visited the Mont-Saint-Michel Bay and Étretat on our first trip to Normandy, we limited ourselves on discovering Honfleur a bit more. We did so by making a hike around Honfleur, here is the link to the track on Outdooractive.

As to Honfleur, we already knew it. Therefore, we expected lots of tourists here. It was exactly like that, but understandable. The historic multi-store houses packed tight to each other around the Vieux Bassin (port) make a beautiful picture.

Yet a few steps further, and you are away from the masses!

Our hotel: Saint-Delis Honfleur 

Our hotel in Honfleur was Hotel Saint-Delis, opened 2020 in a 17th century former family home.

It is located in a beautiful residential neighborhood, very close to the town center.With its nine rooms only, this Relais & Châteaux property is very boutique. The elegantly furnished rooms come with steam showers and overlook a splendid garden.

We had booked a Deluxe Room (31 sqm, 599€ with breakfast per night), yet were upgraded to a Junior Suite (40 sqm). It was a duplex with ample space, which we liked (No 5). And this despite the fact that the A/C was a bit suboptimal.

You find no restaurant on site but there is a bar for hotel guests only. Here you get a lovely breakfast and snacks throughout the day, served by friendly and helpful staff.

Our restaurants: Huître Brûlée & Le Bréard, both in Honfleur

a) Huître Brûlée Honfleur

At the Michelin listed Huître Brûlée you get oysters – as its name suggests! But we chose other items from the small à la carte, which is reasonably priced. The cuisine at this lively, casual place is modern.

And and you get also lighter and healthy choices. At the helm at Huître Brûlée is a younger couple, Paul Lacheray in the kitchen and his partner, Chloé Woestelandt, in the dining room. Even though the staff was busy on our visit, it was cordial. We liked what we had for starters (all around 15€) and mains (from 22 to 30€). Instead of  going for cheese (5€), my husband and I had two desserts (10€ each). Yet the latter was too much, as especially the chocolate dessert was quite heavy (one dessert is probably sufficient).

b) Le Bréard Honfleur

This Michelin dining spot is the more sophisticated choice compared to its above mentioned competitor. What they have in common, is the modern food. Yet the decor here is chicer, the service more polished and the cuisine a touch more refined.

A younger couple is in charge as well, Fabrice Sébire in the kitchen and his wife Karine in the dining room (since 2004). On our evening, we could have a seat outdoors in the lovely courtyard. From the three menus (with options), we chose the middle (3-course menu 45€, 4-course menu 60€, 6-course menu 70€).

The service was professional and attentive. We found that Karine had an open eye for subtleties that others might overlook. And there were no issues with the pricing, which we considered as fair.

Looking forth to road trip in North & Central France in style (part II & III)

That was the first part of a North and Central France trip my husband and I undertook lately. It showcased the itinerary from Switzerland – where we come from – to the Brittany. This is about the Champagne and Honfleur/Normandy, and I go into the best activities, hotels and restaurants here. The Brittany is the main focus of our journey and I deal with it in part two. Part three finally is about the return way, going from the Brittany via Cognac, the Dordogne and the Cantal back to Switzerland.

Date of stay: September 2024

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I just wanted to let you know that I have updated my Switzerland directories for traveling and dining in style for 2025! There are the four of them. The first two are about where to go in my lovely home country. You find not only a grand tour of Switzerland but also an overview of premium destinations for the discerning traveler. Furthermore, I inform on where to stay and where to dine in style while traveling along the grand tour through this Alpine nation.

Here are the details:

1. Guide to visiting Switzerland
2. Premium destinations in Switzerland
3. Guide to luxury hotels in Switzerland, part one – core and west
4. Guide to luxury hotels in Switzerland, part two – Alps and east
5. Directory to fine dining in Switzerland, part one – core and west
6. Directory to fine dining in Switzerland, part two – Alps and east

I would like to highlight in particular my advice to foodies spots in Switzerland (5. and 6.).

It is based on dining directories just as the Michelin Guide and the Gault Millau Guide. And whenever they publish a new edition I amend my articles accordingly. But of course my personal opinions also play a role when creating them.

One more remark to end this short blogpost about my freshly updated Switzerland dine and travel in style guides. It is about how to use them. In case you do not want to read them from A to Z – which I would perfectly understand as they are quite long – , then proceed as follows. If you are only interested in a specific place, go to the contents section and click at “show”. Go to the spot of your choice and only read the correspondent paragraph!

Happy traveling and dining to all of you in 2025! And maybe let me know what you think about my directories.

The post My Switzerland travel & dine in style directories 2025 first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post My Switzerland travel & dine in style directories 2025 appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

While Stresa itself has some dining spots recommended by Michelin, my husband and I did not choose them. Either they appeared too traditional or too touristy to us. Instead we headed to its surroundings on our search for the best fine-dining restaurants in the Stresa area. There was one exception, and this was the restaurant at our hotel, Boutique Hotel Stresa (my review), where we enjoyed two fine dinners. As to Stresa’s vicinity, we found two gourmet spots (both Michelin listed) that we were fond of. The one was an elegant two-star place, the other was a modern, rather casual eatery. What they both had in common were their great setting, hovering on the lake.

Before coming to more details on three of the best (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants around Stresa, some lines about the Piedmont journey my husband and I undertook.

11-day road trip in the Piedmont/Swiss west in style

Our trip had two focuses in the Piedmont, the first in the wine region around Alba in the Langhe, the other in Stresa on Lake Maggiore (see itinerary). These were complemented by two stopovers, one in Caluso north of Turin (Piedmont), the other in the Swiss west (near Lake Geneva). As always when traveling, my husband and I look out for best places for staying and dining in style. And we like to walk everywhere we go.

Regarding to the first main destination near Alba, I published three posts. While the first was about our luxury hotel, the second went into three of the best (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants. The third finally focused on activities in the area. When it comes to Stresa, I cover the same topics. Already on my blog there is a review on the high-end hotel we stayed at (my post). A report on things to do here will end my Piedmont mini-series.

3 of the best (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants around Stresa on the Lake Maggiore

As I mentioned above, one of the best fine-dining places I identified around Stresa is in the town itself. This one will made the start. Then I look at the flagship restaurant in the area, a two-star Michelin spot. A no-frills eatery will end my reporting on the best (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants around Stresa.

1. LeBolle Restaurant at Boutique Hotel Stresa

About

LeBolle is the “hotel restaurant” at Boutique Hotel Stresa. My husband and I had a four-night stay at this splendid property opened in 2023.

As LeBolle Restaurant looked appealing and got good reviews, we booked two dinners here. This in addition to having breakfast here on four days. As to the latter, it was a good experience. Apart from choosing from a well-assorted buffet, you could also order from an à la carte menu. While some more elaborate dishes costed extra, others just as fresh fruit salad, a bowl of wild berries or pancakes were free of charge.

The head chef at LeBolle Restaurant is Andrea Falciola, who seems to be quite experienced when it comes to working in hotel kitchens in the Lake Maggiore region. Among other places of work, he also was head chef at Grand Hotel Dino in Baveno, another five-star hotel in the area.

What to expect at LeBolle Restaurant?

As to dining here, you have three options location wise. Weather permitting, you can dine at the outdoor restaurant. Here you can select either one of the “regular” tables or – depending on availability – one of five bubbles.

I highly recommend the latter as having a meal in such an igloo made of glass and wood is quite a unique experience. If the weather does not cooperate, dining indoors is also nice. An elegant and contemporarily furnished dining-room with an open cuisine awaits you. And this comes complete with generous spacing between tables for more privacy and personal space.

In terms of cuisine, you are in here for upscale Mediterranean food with a modern touch. As usual in Italy, you can opt for dishes in four sections (starters, first courses, second courses and desserts). My husband and I thought that three courses were enough for an average eater. Starters (21 to 26€) included a rabbit terrine, an amberjack ceviche or a tomato millefeuille. First courses (22 to 29€) were all about risotto and pasta. As to the mains (24 to 38€), sea bass, suckling pig or a veggie dish were on offer. And desserts (18€) were varied, from a trio of sorbets to a pineapple steak to a cheesecake and less common creations.

How was it?

On both evenings, we were satisfied with what we had. Both times, we ordered either a pasta dish or a risotto to start the meal. As one would expect in Italy, they know how to do such dishes. I especially liked the Matcha Spaghettoni with Gomashio, Spinach and Shiitake Mushrooms. It was a great combination of western and eastern flavors.

Concerning the mains, they were also good but maybe a tad below the starters regarding taste and creativity. My favorite among them were the sea bass fillet with Moroccan lemon, anchovy saue and roasted eggplant. All the desserts we had (three out of five) were smooth and refined. The White Dream, a yoghurt sponge cake with white chocolate and cherry, was the one one I preferred most.

Andrea Falciola comes across as an accomplished chef, impressing with classics that are modernly interpreted. All the dishes we had came with a shot of innovation. He skillfully let flow Asian and Oriental influences in his western creations. The setting is hard to beat – in particular if you are lucky enough to secure one of those Bubbles! And the staff was hospitable, gracious and very Italian (a bit old school).

2. Restaurant Piccolo Lago in Verbania

About

Restaurant Piccolo Lago is for sure the most renowned gourmet restaurant in Stresa and surroundings. It has been helmed by chef Marco Sacco together with his wife and restaurant manager Raffaella Marchetti since the 1990s. The dining-spot, established in 1974 by the chef’s parents, has held two Michelin stars since 2007. However, in the guide for 2025, Piccolo Lago ist not listed. Apparently, the award has been put on hold, and this because of a first degree conviction for food poisoning (March 2024). An appeal is scheduled for spring 2025, so there are hopes that the sentence might be reversed. Despite this difficult situation, Marco Sacco vowed at the verdict that he would not give up cooking. And he has kept his word so far.

What to expect?

I have to admit that I did not know about this case of food poisoning when dining here in summer 2024. What I noticed at the time that there were not too many guests present. Yet the restaurant is spacious, 60 to 70 guests can be accommodated at this dream-like setting on Lake Mergozzo, about 15 minutes away from Stresa. And we got one of the best tables, right at the end of the over-hanging section that extends over the lake.

Plus, Raffaella Marchetti invited us to have a look around in the kitchen.

In any case, I am confident you are in here for a memorable (and safe) culinary experience. The food poisoning case I mentioned was about raw clams imported from France infected with the norovirus. They came in sealed packets from a long-term supplier.

On offer on our visit was a an eight-course tasting menu for 220€ that could be extended by one of the chef’s signatures courses. It was about his take of spaghetti carbonara, the Carbonara au Koque for 20€.

Alternatively, you could choose from an à la carte menu that consisted of 13 dishes. The latter is a novelty, which was not possible at Piccolo Lago for 20 years. Starters were between 40 and 50€, first courses from 40 to 55€, main courses between 50 and 60€ and desserts costed 25€.

How was it at one of the best fine-dining restaurants around Stresa?

The chef is known as “freshwater chef” thanks to his dedication to the local fish world. When my husband and I dined here, there were not that many fish dishes on the menu. My husband and I picked the only two that were available – we opted for à la carte. We ordered one from each of the mentioned sections (four dishes) and found that was just right in terms of quantity. And there were also snacks and a “post-dessert”.

While my husband started with Mother Earth, a vegetable dish, I had Ingot, trout in combination with raspberries, balsamic and flowers. We continued with the above mentioned Carbonara au Koque, where we got an eggshell with the sauce to dress the pasta at the table. As a main course, my husband chose the local eel done with local tea and rose sorbet. I had the Zucchina Trombetta, a zucchini dish with peas and beans. For desserts, we had Milk & Mint, made of ricotta, buckwheat, curry and coconut, and Chocolate, made with wine, goji, rose and sorbet. What for ingenious creations these all were! And service was of the highest level too.

3. Restaurant Battipalo in Lesa

About

As above, you are here directly on the lake. This time, it is Lake Maggiore and it is about a small town, Lesa. From Stresa, you get here in 10 minutes by car. Alternatively, you can arrive by boat as Battipalo is right next to the ferry dock. The restaurant is actually housed in the former ferry house. A middle-aged husband and wife team has been in charge here, Simona Benetti (chef) and Gabriele Boggio (host), and this since 2009. From what I read, they are both job switchers, she used to run a nearby optician’s shop, and he was in sales. But finally, they followed the call of their hearts and did what they liked best. And they really do it well! She did some internships with highly decorated chefs. He as a wine lover deepened his knowledge in this field. In the course of years, he has developed a knack for excellent niche products, we had a formidable (and reasonably priced) champagne here, a premier cru Vincent Bliard.

What to expect at Restaurant Battipalo?

Restaurant Battipalo is a modern dining spot in a gorgeous setting, hanging litterally over Lake Maggiore.

And there is also a lovely outdoor area.

While it is a relaxed place, you get here high-quality food with creative touches (Michelin listed). On the menu, you find (of course) lots of fish, yet also quite many meat dishes. As usual in Italy, the à la carte menu is divided into four sections. On our visit, each included four dishes, in addition cheese was available in the forth too.

For starters, think of a stuffed courgette flower, a deer tartare or zander tataki (17 to 19€). In terms of pasta and risotto, there was a cheese risotto with strawberries and peas, Roman gnocchi with snail ragu or tagliatelle with ragu (18 to 19€). When it came to mains (24 to 26€), you could choose between two fish dishes (freshwater and vegetable tempura or sturgeon steak) and two meat options (lamp rump or beef sirloin). To end the meal, the choice was between a zabaione,

a parfait or a puff pastry cannon (7 to 9€). Alternatively, there is the opportunity of a 5-course surprise menu for 60€.

How was it?

My husband and I had three courses each and considered it as sufficient for an average eater. In case you should be really hungry, opt for a forth or share an additional course with your diner companion. While my husband opted for pasta (tagliatelle with white ragu, asparagus and morels), I decided on the courgette flower stuffed with hummus and courgette cream. As main, we both had the sturgeon steak paired with asparagus and tzatziki. For dessert we chose a puff pastry cannon filled with slightly spiced cream and local daisies.

Everything we had was immaculately done, tasty and often a bit out of the box. I was pleasantly surprised that the chef was adept at subtle details! And we had a great corner table by the large windows where you feel like floating above the lake.

Also service wise I can only praise the staff’s work.

One more nearby restaurant recommendation

As we have not traveled the Italian Lakes area for the first time, I have one more restaurant recommendation for you. And it is not just another “normal” place but a three-star Michelin dining spot. It is about Villa Crespi on the nearby Lake Orta. You get here from Stresa in about half an hour by car. Find here my post about staying and dining at Villa Crespi. Our stay here dates back to 2021 when the restaurant “only” had two Michelin stars.

And also consider dining at Villa Crespi’s sister property, which is nearby. It is called Laqua by the Lake. I have not been here yet, but the dining spot has just received a Michelin star!

Looking back and forward on my Piedmont mini-series

After presenting a 11-day Piedmont itinerary (including a side trip to the Swiss west), I went into our two main stops here. One was in the wine region around Alba, the other was in Stresa on one of the Italian Lakes, Lake Maggiore, near Switzerland. In both cases, I wrote about where to stay (around Alba/Stresa) and dine (around Alba) in style plus what to do (around Alba). This very post was about where to go as a fine-dining lover in Stresa. And the one about activities in Stresa is yet to appear on my blog.

Date of stay: July 2024

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For a second visit in the Piedmont’s Langhe wine region within three years, my husband and I again opted for a hotel near Alba. While we had chosen a historic accommodation east of this regional capital at the time (Relais San Maurizio, my post), we went for a newly built one on our recent trip. This time it was Casa di Langa Piedmont, 30 minutes by car south from Alba. From what we had seen and heard about it on our research, we considered it as one of the best luxury hotels in the Langhe – as the one I have just mentioned. The same for both is that they are high-end hotels. Find in the following everything to know when planning a stay at the luxury hotel Casa di Langa.

Before coming to how it is staying in style at Casa di Langa, find a few lines to our Piedmont/Swiss west itinerary.

Travel itinerary Piedmont/north Italy & west Switzerland

My husband’s and my plan was it to make two four-day stays in Italy’s Piedmont. The first one should be in the “typical” one with its rolling hills covered with vineyards. For the second one, we wanted it to be in the Piedmont’s north, in the Italian Lakes region close to Switzerland. So, we settled for Hotel Casa di Langa, south of Alba, and Boutique Hotel Stresa, in the town of the same name on Lake Maggiore.

On our way to Casa di Langa, we made a stopover in Caluso, north of Turin (Piedmont’s capital). When going back home – after staying in Stresa – , we made a side trip to the Swiss west. Here the Valleé de Joux, not far from Lake Geneva, was our destination.

As you might have found out meanwhile, my husband and I are luxury travelers. That means we look for best upscale hotels and (Michelin) fine dining restaurants wherever we go. At the same time, we only choose such ones that we believe are worth their (high) price tags. And we enjoy exploring places by walking.

Staying in style at Casa di Langa in Cerretto Langhe, near Alba, Piedmont

Location of one the best luxury hotels in the Langhe

I could not think of a much more beautiful location in the Piedmont than the one of Casa di Langa. The hotel is situated on a slope in the Langhe wine region, 30 minutes south of Alba.

And you have the most stunning view of rolling hills dotted with villages and vineyards from here. On a clear day, you even have this vista against the background of the Piedmont Alps. The nearest village you can view from here is Serralunga d’Alba, and behind it is La Morra. And more gorgeous towns just as Barolo or Monforte d’Alba are not far from here.

Ambiance/Staff

Casa di Langa, designed by the Milanese firms GaS Studio with Parisotto+Formenton Architetti, was opened in June 2021. And this with the promise of becoming one of the Piedmont’s best hotels. The sustainable accommodation, part of a property that includes 42 hectares/104 acres of vineyards, hazelnut groves and forests, is owned by the U.S. Krause group. The building is set around an open piazza that cascades down the hillside in terraces towards the valley, which is quite a sight.

Materials are inspired by the surrounding landscape. While the exteriors are kept in all shades of deep red, the interiors come in neutral colors, with lots of wood and stone. For the furniture, a mix of Nordic and Italian craftsmanship is used. Everything is very nice to look at, however sometimes lacks practicability. For example, there is no elevator to the pool area or to the parking lot (you can access by buggy and they have valet parking).

Personally, I missed the Italianità at Casa di Langa, the typical pan-Italian identity. For me, the hotel felt quite a bit American, and on our stay there were also lots of guests coming from the U.S. I found the staff friendly yet somewhat distant, especially at the reception and the restaurant. The guys from the valet service however were very nice and helpful. One more remark to the Casa di Langa’s layout. The bar is an extension of the reception area, which feels a bit suboptimal. This is especially given the fact that there is so much space onsite. And it has no view, also on the outdoor lounge area. Bottom line: although the hotel is a true beauty and has the potential of being one of the Piedmont’s best, it lacks a soul in some way.

Rooms/Pricing at Casa di Langa Cerretto Langhe

There are 39 rooms at Casa di Langa, one of the best luxury hotels in the Langhe. And this in six different categories (two rooms, four suites). All come with a spacious private terrace.

Even the least expensive one is quite sizable (Classic Room 33 – 36 sqm). The next higher category (Deluxe Room) is similar in size yet offers a better view (towards Serralunga d’Alba). Junior Suites vary in size (36 – 52 sqm) and do not have the benefit of a valley view (as Deluxe Rooms). As my husband and I wanted to have twin beds (available at Classic Room and Junior Suites), we opted for the Classic Room – we did not want to risk a small Junior Suite. Here is how it was.

Classic Room with twin beds

Visiting the Piedmont in early July, we considered the pricing for our Classic Room as reasonable (446€ with breakfast). As to its design, I liked the contemporary look. They used locally sourced materials just as oak, terracotta, stone and leather, which made it quite unique. It is certainly not your usual hotel room.

The feature I liked most with our room was the huge terrace, although we could not shade it.

As we had chosen the twin beds option, the room was equipped with a special device. Actually, the beds were on rollers, so you could them arrange in two positions – either close together or totally apart. As we favor neither nor – the latter takes up too much space – , we were a bit at a loss. What I also regretted was the lack of seating (apart from the office chair).

The bathroom was spacious enough with an oversized shower but only one sink.

Overall, I was in favor of our room’s look yet more could have been made of the space available to make you feel more comfortable.

Facilities/Activities at one of the best luxury hotels in the Langhe

At Casa di Langa you find a really gorgeous pool. It is not only huge but also set in the most favorable position. Once when my husband spent there some time on a late afternoon, it was rather used as a pool bar rather than for swimming.

In terms of wellness there is also a gym and a small spa onsite. From what I learned – I have not been there – , it offers a whirlpool and a sauna. It is only available for private use against prior reservation, and this for 50 minutes per party.

As Casa Langa has its own wine denomination, there is also a wine academy offering two tastings each day. Cooking classes are also part of the activity offer. Furthermore, you can do hikes in the property’s woods, discover their vegetable garden and greenhouse self-guided or on a garden tour. Truffle hunting is possible as well as is renting a vespa or a bike. We did not make use of any offers as we had done a wine tasting and a truffle hunting on our last visit to the Piedmont (my post). Instead, we made (self-guided) hikes and did some sightseeing. I will cover some activities around Casa di Langa in a post to come.

Restaurants at Casa di Langa

You can either have lunch or dinner at the Fàula Ristorante (Michelin listed, casual fine dining)

or have drinks and small bites at the Sorī Cocktail Bar.

As to the latter, you get on arrival a voucher for a 15 % discount for a drink at the bar, which I found a bit strange. I think it would be better to get either a welcome drink or nothing at all. An in between solution does not work, in my opinion. Be it as it may, we had the one or other drink at the bar. It was nice enough, yet I found the location not that appealing, as I described above. We did not eat at the bar.

However, we had once a dinner at the restaurant. We were lucky and could have it outdoors,

which was a good experience (the indoors have a bit the appearance of a canteen), also food wise.

The chef knows what he does, and the staff did a good job too. More details to dining at Fàula Ristorante and other fine dining-spots nearby follow in a further post to appear on my blog.

Some more remarks to the above restaurant in terms of breakfast. We had it here on four mornings and found it solid but unexceptional. While you could order simple egg dishes without additional costs, this was not possible for eggs Benedict and similar fare. Smoothies were not free of charge either. And frankly, the orange juice they offered on our stay was no winner. Plus, my hot tea was only lukewarm on several occasions. Bottom line: such a breakfast performance does not look good for a property which strives to be one of the best Piedmont hotels.

Overall

Casa di Langa stands out from other hotels in the region thanks to its state-of-the-art architecture, its sustainable design and its breath taking setting. Seemingly, no costs were spared to make it a unique property. Even the entry-level guest rooms are quite large and nicely decorated, although a bit impractical in my opinion.

I also was in favor of the food quality when having dinner at the Fàula Ristorante. As to its design, I am bit less enthusiastic, I found it rather bland and uninviting. Also the breakfast service we experienced here was below my expectations.

As to the level of hospitality, I sometimes felt like being in a business hotel. This was especially so at the reception where the employees were rather reserved and impersonal.

All in all, my husband and I were happy enough with our stay at Casa di Langa yet far from being truly delighted. A beautiful appearance is not enough. It needs more commitment to guest excellence to ensure that (almost) everyone has a comfortable and memorable experience.

Looking back and forward

The start to my mini series about the Piedmont journey made a 11-day itinerary. This mainly included two four-day stays in this northern Italy region, one south of Alba in the typical wine growing area, the other near the Swiss border in Stresa on Lake Maggiore.

This very post went into Villa di Langa, our lodging in the Piedmont’s south and one of the best luxury hotels in the Langhe. Next on my blog, I will report on (Michelin) fine dining around our hotel (south of Alba) and things do do here. The same thing will follow as to our second Piedmont stay further north in Stresa (luxury hotel, fine dining, things to do).

Date of stay: July 2024

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One more trip lead my husband and me to northern Italy, this time to the Piedmont. Regarding the last two journeys in this area, find the details below. On our most recent voyage, it was basically about a two-stop Piedmont itinerary. One should be in the typical Piedmont with its hilly vineyards, the other in the Italian lake region just adjacent to Switzerland. We added two more halts to shorten the travel time from one place to another. As always when vacationing, we opted for luxury hotels and (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants as long as they offered value for money. This because we are not ready to pay ridiculous prices for staying and dining in style. And everywhere we went we were looking out for opportunities to walk and explore the area walking.

Looking back at former north Italy trips

Before coming to the itinerary of our recent Piedmont trip, here is some info on the mentioned last two journeys in the area.

North Italy trip 2023: Trentino-South Tyrol & Lombardy

We started the journey with two stays in the South Tyrol. On the one hand, we went to Dorf Tirol (Tirolo in Italian) above Meran (Merano in Italian). On the other hand, we ventured to the Sarntal (Sarentino valley in Italian) above Bozen (Bolzanzo in Italian). As you may have noticed, the South Tyrol is bilingual – German and Italian. Next was the Lake Garda further south. While its northern part is located in the Trentino, the place we went already belongs to the Lombardy. It is about the picturesque town of Gardone Riviera.

On return, we took a detour to the Lake Geneva region in the Swiss west. Precisely, we made a stop in Glion/Montreux.

North Italy trip 2021: Piedmont & Liguria

Our first stop in the Piedmont was not far away from Switzerland, in the Italian Lake region, and we opted for Orta San Giulio (Lake Orta). Then we proceeded to the “usual” Piedmont – rolling hills with vineyards – near Alba. At the time, we lodged in Santo Stefano Belbo, 30 minutes east from the mentioned regional capital. From here we went on to Liguria. Here we stayed in Alassio, the beach town on the so-called Italian Riviera.

Our way home led over France, we made halts in Vence, Les-Baux-de-Provence and in Vienne.

Now to our current Italy adventure.

North Italy trip 2024: 11-day road trip Piedmont & Swiss west trip itinerary

As mentioned, for our latest north Italy trip we had been longing for vines and lake. Here is my Google Map of it with all the (luxury) hotels we stayed and the (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants we went:

This time we started with a four-day stay in the wine growing area around Alba. We chose a hotel not so far away from the one we were on our last visit. Again it was half an hour by car away from Alba, but not in the eastern direction as last time but in the southern one. And it was in the town of Ceretto Langhe.

As it would have been quite a long trip from our home town, we inserted an intermediate stop about two thirds of the way. That was north of Turin in Caluso. Our second four-day visit was in Stresa on Lake Maggiore.

On our way home, we made a halt in the Vallée de Joux, a high valley in the Swiss Jura Mountains. It is situated not far from Lake Geneva in western Switzerland.

Now to some information about the individual places on our Piedmont itinerary. In addition, I also include some remarks about staying and dining in style here.

From place to place in the Piedmont & Swiss west

1. Caluso, north of Turin, 1st stop Piedmont itinerary

Caluso is a small town in the Metropolitan City of Turin in the Italian region Piedmont, located about 30 km/19 mi northeast of Turin. It has gained some notoriety because of the white wine grape Erbaluce that is primarily grown here. From what I read (and also tried) it makes good dry table, sweet and sparkling wines. In addition, Caluso has a nice medieval town center

and a tranquil environment (Lago di Candia: great circular walk).

Caluso is not exactly a tourist hotspot. My husband and I came here looking for a stopover between our home town and the Langhe wine region. And it delivered well in this respect with the fabulous one-star Michelin Restaurant Gardenia (update November 2024: Michelin listed) – I think we were the only foreigners on our dinner.

The female chef celebrates an amazing cuisine inspired by nature and with a high respect of the plant world.

And this in a beautiful 19th century building. Plus, we found a great bed and breakfast establishment, the brand new Villa Albaluce. It is a historic mansion with a spacious garden and  five suites (all with kitchen),

featuring 18th century parquet floors, frescoed vaults and antique furniture. On top of all that, staff was top notch. And it is only a few minutes away by foot from the above mentioned dining-spot.

2. Ceretto Langhe, south of Alba, 2nd stop Piedmont itinerary

I went into the typical Piedmont – sloping hills covered in grapevines – in a former post at some length. So, I will not offer more details about this area right now. I can only say this much: I found the Langhe wine region south of Alba even more beautiful than the already stunning one east of it. I think in this context of towns just as Serralunga d’Alba, Barolo or La Morra. Later on my blog, I will advise on some more activities in the area, in addition to the ones already mentioned in above post.

In terms of accommodation in the Langhe, we opted this time for Casa di Langa (my post). This hotel has not only an exceptional setting

but is also an architectural jewel. It opens up to a valley like an amphitheater, revealing a breathtaking view of the surrounding rolling hills dotted with villages and vineyards.

Casa di Langa is a fairly new property and features 42 modernly furnished rooms.

As always when traveling we try to dine at the best (Michelin) restaurants in the area – usually with an eye for value for money. And we made great finds in the area in this regard. We liked the dining experience at our hotel – Fàula Ristorante –

yet there is much more for fine-dining lovers in the surroundings. Come back later to check out my reporting on staying and dining in style in the Langhe wine region.

3. Stresa, Italian Lakes (Lake Maggiore) near Switzerland, 3rd stop Piedmont itinerary

The small town of Stresa is located on the western shores of Lake Maggiore, the longest of all Italian lakes. It has been a bathing resort since the late 18th century. The rather touristy place

is known for its lovely board walk, the splendid villas and the magnificent grand hotels from the Belle Époque period. And it is a perfect gateway for visiting the famous Borromean Islands.

At a later point of time, I will inform on things to do here in a separate blogpost.

Our main reason to choose Stresa above other spots in the Italian Lakes region was a newly opened luxury hotel. It is about Boutique Hotel Stresa (my review). This accommodation with 26 wonderful rooms

has a prime location just by the lake.

Furthermore, it is adjacent to the historic town center and five minutes by foot away from the jetty. Plus, it is a true beauty thanks to its successful architecture, a mix between old and new.

When it comes to fine dining in Stresa, LeBolle Restaurant at Boutique Hotel Stresa is a very good choice. You can have here contemporary Italian food with a twist either in its chic interiors or on the outdoor area. When doing the latter, make sure to make a reservation in one of the five bubbles, which is an enjoyable thing to do.

I have two more Michelin fine-dining recommendations for you in Stresa’s neighborhood. You will find all about staying and dining in Stresa in my detail report to follow on my blog,

4. Valleé de Joux (near Lake Geneva), Swiss west, side trip

On hour way home form our Piedmont itinerary, my husband and I made a stop in the Swiss west, precisely in the Valleé de Joux.

We have been in the area many years ago and wanted to revisit ever since. At the time, we liked the rugged and unspoilt valley nestled between Jura Mountain ranges. Now, as an upscale hotel has opened here not so long ago, we found that the right time for this undertaking has come. It is about Hotel des Horlogers (Watchmaker Hotel).

You can reach the hotel that is owned by a famous watchmaker company in about 40 minutes by car from Lake Geneva.

I must say that the property truly is a masterful engineering and design achievement.

And all the 50 guest rooms come with a stunning view of the Risoud forest.

While service at the reception was immaculate, the one at the restaurant was a bit uninspired. We had the Food Lovers package at their Michelin listed Brasserie Le Gogant, which included a four-course discovery meal. Food was good yet not overly inventive, given the place is overseen by a three-star Michelin chef.

Sadly, a booking at La Table des Horlogers (Carte Blanche du Chef) was not possible. Overall, we had a decent enough experience at Hotel des Horlogers, but we probably would not return.

What is next in my Italy’s Piedmont reporting

Whereas I will not go further into our two “stopovers” in Caluso/Piedmont and Valleé de Joux/western Switzerland, there will be more about the two main destinations on our Piedmont itinerary. These are the Langhe wine region around Alba and the town of Stresa on the Lake Maggiore. My reporting will include the two high-end accommodations – Casa di Langa near Alba and Boutique Hotel Stresa. I will also inform about the best (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants (Langhe, Stresa), both at the hotels and nearby. Finally, there will be blogposts about things to do in both places (Langhe, Stresa), especially for those who like walking as my husband and I do.

Date of stay: July 2024

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The post 11 days on the road in the Piedmont & western Switzerland in luxury first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post 11 days on the road in the Piedmont & west Switzerland in luxury appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Now it is to the details of a two-week Taiwan itinerary. My last post was about a one-week travel plan comprising the island’s north. If you have two weeks at your disposal, then you can also travel Taiwan’s south. Plus, you have the option to build in one more stay in the north. Such a travel plan allows you to take your time and to explore sights in the respective surroundings too. Again, I only included stops that ensure travel in style. That means places where you find options for staying at luxury hotels and dining at (Michelin) gourmet restaurants. Yet – as always – , I only considered establishments offering value for money.

There are six stops in total. Compared to the one-week itinerary that I described in my last post, there are three more. Two are in the south (Kenting National Park and Kaohsiung), one is in the north (a second Taipei stay). Find in the following my Google Map of a 17-day road trip in Taiwan that my husband and I did. It can be shortened to 14 days without any problems:

Overview on my Google Map of our 17-day Taiwan itinerary

As you could see, we started and ended the journey in Taipei with four stops in-between. The first stop was on the Island’s northeast, at the Taroko Gorge near the seaside town of Hualien. Then we traveled inland to Sun Moon Lake in the foothills of the Central Mountain Range. We continued towards south to the Kenting National Park. And before returning to Taipei, we had our one and only stay in a big city apart from Taipei, and this in Kaohsiung.

As I already went into the first three stops in my mentioned one-week travel plan, you find in this post about a two-week Taiwan itinerary only explanations to the last three ones (Kenting National Park, Kaohsiung and north Taipei). Again, I start with a short description of the respective town/region. Then I let you know what to do here in a few sentences. Finally, I go briefly into each of the high-end hotels we stayed and the (Michelin) fine dining spots we ate.

A 17-day Taiwan round trip with six stops in style

See details to stop 1 – 3 here

4. Kenting National Park (south, 2 nights)

About

The Kenting National Park occupies the entire southern tip of the country. And while Kenting is said to have the best beaches in Taiwan, they are subpar to those of typical beach destinations. Nonetheless, the area boasts a lovely coastal scenery and is well worth a full-day exploring.

Things to do here include: walk in the Sheding Natural Park with its huge coral rocks (volunteers guide you around if you wish), Sail “Nixon” Rock, Taiwan’s southernmost point, Longpan Park (great coastal views)

and Hengchun (old city wall with four ancient gates,

Old Street

with Patisserie Ce Moment).

Hotel: Gloria Manor

This is yet another property that has a connection to the former president Chiang Kai-shek. It used to be one of his presidential guesthouses. And this is easy to understand in light of the picturesque mountain and sea scenery you find here. The hotel is remotely located inside the Kenting National Forest Recreation Area, surrounded by tropical greenery.

Gloria Manor took over the site in 2012. The building convinces with minimalistic design that blends nicely into the natural setting. You find here 60 rooms in a range of categories. Yet it does have to be one with a sea view as this is probably the main attraction of staying here.

Breakfasts are excellent, you can make your choice out of several ones served on a tray.

And you can have it also in the pleasant outdoor area. Mu is the only restaurant on site, find some details below.

Restaurants: Mu Restaurant (at Hotel Gloria Manor)

At Gloria Manor’s Mu Restaurant you get excellent Taiwan cuisine with a modern twist. And the place strictly adheres to the principle “not in season, not on the menu”. The setting is relaxed yet still with an upscale touch. My husband and I dined here on both evenings and liked what we got. Good choices from the à la carte menu were Wonton Soup, Crab Omelet, Fried Rice with Pineapple & Dolphinfish, Mango Pomelo Sago or Baked Pudding.

There is also a set menu (1,680 TWD / 47 SFR/US$).

5. Kaohsiung (south, 3 nights)

About

Kaohsiung is Taiwan’s third most populous city and is home to the island’s largest port. While it long used to be an industrial city, it has been reorienting itself toward tourism as well as art and culture since since the turn of the millennium. This shows in the vast Pier-2 Art Center where former shipping warehouses were turned into shops and cafés. And there are museums, art installations and street art. I for one liked the dynamic vibe of Kaohsiung!

As to more classic sights here, the scenic Lotus Pond in the north of the city is an good place to go. It is known for its 20 temples or so along the shoreline and nearby.

And there is the Confucius Temple too. Another big name attraction in the area is the Fo Guang Shan Monastery, outside of town, which is the largest in all of Taiwan and quite a sight.

Last but not least, we used Kaohsiung for a day trip to Tainan. This is Taiwan’s original capital and still retains a traditional vibe. Go to the city center first (Confucius Temple, Hayashi Departement Store, Snail Alley & Shennong Street, two quaint streets;

then proceed to the Anping District (Anping Fort, Anping Old Street, Anping Treehouse).

Hotel: Silks Club

Silks Club is one kind of a cool, urban hotel, attracting business and leisure travelers alike. It is located in the emerging neighborhood of Qianzhen, opened in 2017. Already the sleek lobby with the reflecting pool of water impresses.

And it continues when it comes to the rooms. The 147 units have an average size of 66 sqm, floor-to-ceiling windows and oversized bathrooms.

The place for breakfast is In Jade Lounge – you get it on a tray plus there is small buffet, and it is a tasty affair.

You can also come here for drinks in the evening. The restaurant, a branch of the Japanese Ukai Tei, is divided into several sub-spots (Teppanyaki, Kaiseki & Grill). Find more info on the former below.

Restaurants: Ukai-tei Teppanyaki (at Silks Club), Marc L³ & Sho

For our Kaohsiung food adventures, my husband and I chose three Michelin dining spots. One even has a Michelin star (Sho), two are on the 50Best Discovery list (Sho & Marc L³).

I start with the “hotel restaurant”, Ukai-tea Teppanyki, where they serve a Wagyu menu (Rump 4,800 TWD, Sirloin 5,800 TWD, Tenderloin 6,500 TWD). We opted for the Sirloin (161 SFR/US$) and could witness quality ingredients being cooked on the iron plate right before our eyes. And we even had a chef who exclusively cooked for the two of us! That was quite an experience, especially when it was up to the preparation of the abalone (from live to death).

Our favorite dinner in Kaoshiung and probably on our whole Taiwan trip was the one at Marc L³. The three L’s stand for Live x Liberal x Limitless. Reservations here are difficult to get, and we had to pay our meal in advance (which was not a no-brainer to arrange). Yet, once seated at the counter (9 seats only), we were in for culinary magic! Unique French fare was prepared in front of us, and this as eight-course menu (3,960 TWD / 112 SFR/US$) in a relaxed ambiance.

And the chef is such a nice guy too, communicative, approachable and amiable! What a great evening we had here!

Dining at Sho, an outpost of the Tokyo famed Den Restaurant, was a epicurean highlight as well. We were treated to an exquisite Japanese meal with creative touches. Quite in contrast to Marc L³, it took place in a somewhat chilly ambiance. The place – a counter with 14 seats – had an almost clinical appearance. Notwithstanding that, we truly enjoyed the tasting menu (3,500 TWD + rice upgrade 700 TWD / 119 SFR/US$). And if you are wondering about the rice upgrade, go for it! It is a traditional rice dish cooked in an iron pot called a kama, once with Wagyu and the other time with scallops.

6. Taipei (Beitou District, north of the center, 3 nights)

About

Our second stay in Tapei was in Beitou, the capital’s most northern district. While it is not too far away from Taipei’s center (half an hour by MRT), it has a less urban feel. The hilly area is known for its hot springs and is close to beautiful nature.

We had planned to explore Taiwan’s north from Beitou. Yet we only managed to do one such day trip because of not so good weather. And this was to Jiufen,

a seaside town in the lush mountains northeast of Taipei (book a Taiwan tea time at Jiufen Artist Teahouse, expensive yet worthwhile;

escape the crowds by hiking the Jinguashi Aqueduct Trail). We left out the second one to Yangmingshan National Park on Taipei’s northern fringe. Instead, we headed to central Taipei once again, to the University District. And it was lively, even on a Sunday. And do not miss the sights in Beitou: Thermal Valley, Puji Temple,

Beitou Library, Xinbeitou Historic Station.

Hotel: Grand View Resort Beitou

While Beitou is not the first address for first timers to Taipei seeking to explore the city to the fullest, it was ideal for our purposes. Having already done the capital’s major sights, we longed for a quiet place to spend our last few days in Taiwan. Staying here is the best of both worlds: being in relative proximity to Taipei’s center and at the same surrounded by nature.

Grand View Resort Beitou is the most luxurious among the many hot-spring hotels that make use of the sulfurous hot-spring water that bubbles from the ground. The relatively large and modern property (opened in 2011) stands high on a slope with beautiful views of Beitou and beyond.

All the 66 guest rooms are spacious and come with hot-spring bathrooms, allowing a private soaking experience. I think the accommodations could use a little touch up, especially the wet area (the moisture from the hot springs does not help).

Breakfasts are really good here, served on a tray. And they even offered another variety on our third day. There are three restaurants, from which we tried out two (we did not eat at Aqua Deck with light continental food). Find more details in the next section.

Restaurants: Chinese Cuisine & C’est Bon (both at Hotel Grand View Resort)

We had dinner every evening at Hotel Grand View Resort Beitou. As I had read good things about the Chinese Cuisine – it is Michelin listed – , we went there twice.

One evening, we tried out the French place, C’est Bon.

While both offered fine food, we found C’est Bon better. We had a lovely dinner here indulging in immaculately prepared French food with a Taiwanese twist. Out of the four set menus, we ordered the one with Boston Lobster (3,080 TWD / 87 SFR/USD$), and we relished it.

As to the Chinese place, we had a not so good dining experience on our first evening. Whereas the food was good (we had opted for à la carte), service and setting were less so. Everything was better on our second dinner – we had the Vegetarian Set Menu (2,280 TWD / 64 SFR/US$). Yet C’est Bon has our love!

Looking back and ahead on my Taiwan journey

The start made some considerations to bear in mind when planning a (luxury) Taiwan trip (my post), followed by a proposal for one-week itinerary here. This is actually the first part of the journey my husband and I did on this island. It includes the three major travel highlights in this country, Taipei, Taroko Gorge and Sun Moon Lake. As luxury traveler and  fine dining lover, I also give recommendations as to where to stay and dine in style. In addition, I go into what to do in all theses places, plus some ideas for side trips. In this very post, you get the same thing, yet for the second part of our trip. Taken together, you have info on our original 17-day itinerary (that you can shorten to a 2-week Taiwan itinerary). Next on my blog, you will find out about my personal hotel and restaurant highlights in Taiwan in some more details.

Date of stay: April 2024

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The post Taiwan in style, a 2-week road trip itinerary first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Taiwan in style, a 2-week road trip itinerary appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

While my last post went into general considerations to make when planning a Taiwan trip, this one is about a concrete one-week itinerary. When my husband and I toured beautiful Formosa – as it was called by its discoverers – , we actually had 17 days at our disposal (for the whole island). Yet, you can shorten the journey to one week (north only). This still allows you to see the island’s three major highlights – Taipei, Taroko Gorge and Sun Moon Lake. And my one-week proposal is about a Taiwan trip in style, meaning staying in luxury hotels and dining in (Michelin) gourmet restaurants (if available).

Before coming to the details of the three individual stops, here my Google Map of this one-week Taiwan trip.

Overview on my Google Map of a 1-week Taiwan itinerary

No Taiwan trip is complete without exploring its capital of Taipei. While I put it as first destination on my Google Map, you can of course also do it at the end of the journey. The second stop is on the Island’s northeast, at the Taroko Gorge near the seaside town of Hualien. Then you travel inland to Sun Moon Lake in the foothills of the Central Mountain Range before returning to Taipei.

I start with a short description of the respective place. Then I let you know what to do here in a few sentences. Last but not least, I go briefly into a high-end hotel and some nearby (Michelin) fine dining spots.

A 1-week Taiwan round trip with three stops in style

1. Taipei (Songshan District, near the city center, 3 nights)

About

Taipei is a must for every Taiwan traveler. You find here a fascinating mix of Chinese, Japanese, indigenous and western influences. And although it is a deeply urban place, nature is never too far away. So, it is the ideal starting and/or ending point for your island exploring.

When it comes to activities, Taipei 101 for a view of the city and the Elephant Mountain for a view of Taipei 101 are musts for first timers to Taipei. Also the political Taipei around the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall has to be on every traveler’s agenda.

Further things to do are the Dihua Old Street,

The Dalongdong Baoan Temple

and the nearby Confucius Temple.

Hotel: Mandarin Oriental Taipei

Before setting off on our Taiwan round trip, we lodged at the Mandarin Oriental in the Songshan District. This business district (financial industry) is an okay location for exploring Taipei, however not the most ideal one. Most sights are in the following districts: Zhongzheng, Wanhua, Datong, Xinyi and Da’an. And Songshan is slightly too far north and east compared to the before mentioned ones. Yet, you are close to a MRT station and once on the subway, you get everywhere quickly enough.

As to the hotel, it is opulent indeed. While being a newly built complex (opened in 2014 together with THE ARCADE, a shopping center), it is reminiscent of Medieval European architecture in an eclectic style.

The 303 guest rooms are more spacious than at its competitors. They are classically furnished with contemporary touches and boast generous marbled bathrooms.

And you get a fabulous breakfast at Café Un Deux Trois, a modern buffet style restaurant. Service is as excellent as you might expect it with this prestigious hotel group. And rates are affordable enough, in contrast to many other MO hotels in Europe.

Restaurants: Holt & Hosu

UPDATE: Restaurant Holt’s website is no longer available

We did not have dinner at Mandarin Oriental Taipei – except some small bites in the M.O. Bar after a late arrival on our first day in Taiwan (which were good).

Instead we had decided on two Michelin listed restaurants in the adjacent neighborhood.

Holt is a one-star Michelin restaurant offering exquisite contemporary European food. On our evening, they still served creations by Canadian chef Jeffery Downs, although he had already left for good in the direction of his home country. We were told that they are now in a rebranding process.

The tasting menu we got (3,980 TWD / 112 SFR/US$) was one of the trip’s highlight food wise delivering very high quality.

While Holt was really great yet very European, we were keen on trying food prepared in a more Taiwanese way. So, we had opted for Hosu, a modern Taiwanese dining spot, which is Michelin listed. And we were delighted by this cute little place whose name means “Good Island”. They served a tasting menu (2,880 TWD / 81 SFR/US$) that surprised at every turn.

2. Taroko Gorge (northeast, 2-3 days)

Currently largely closed due to earthquake in April 2024!

About

Taroko Gorge is one of Taiwan’s top scenic attractions. It is a steep valley created by the Liwu river and makes part of the Taroko National Park. The first 18 km/11 mi of Highway 8, coming from Taiwan’s east coast, are what is known as Taroko Gorge. The thing to do here are hikes of various lengths. Usually one full day is enough to get quite a good insight. My husband and I stayed three nights here, and this right inside the gorge.

As to actual things to do, be advised that usually one or more sights or trails are closed (it is a geologically active site). So, check what is open before you go. We did the following activities (on one full day): Swallow Grotto (short walk), Buluowan Suspension Bridge (crossing the bridge only), Eternal Spring Shrine Trial (closed, you could only walk to the first Shrine), Baiyang Trail to Water Curtain Cave (we did not go in, one and a half hour),

Lushui Trail (only a short part, closed after Small Cave).

The second day, we made a day trip to the Hualien area and a bit more in the south direction. It lead us along the east coast to Qixingtan Beach, Qizingtan (quaint seaside town), Baqi Viewpoint (nice),

Jiqi Beach, Fengbin Skywalk (closed) and Xin She Rice Terraces. Then we returned inland via the towns of Guangfu, Fenglin and Shoufeng. Here we made a side trip to Liyu Lake before going back to the Taroko Gorge.

Hotel: Silks Place Taroko

Closed until mid 2024 due to earthquake in April 2024!

As announced, the hotel is located within the Taroko Gorge. Precisely, it is in Tianxiang, a small village at the top of the gorge, about one hour from Hualien City. If you value the best possible situation for exploring the Taroko Gorge, then you are right here. The property used to be an official government guest house under the regime of president Chiang Kai-shek. In 2010, it opened after a renovation as Silks Place Taroko.

While the hotel’s exteriors are not necessarily a feast for the eyes, its interiors are nice, kept in a contemporary style. The 160 rooms are split over two floors, the Retreat Floor and Resort Floor. The former are more luxurious and offer access to the top floor Retreat Lounge where complimentary snacks and drinks are served all day.

As a Retreat Floor guest, you can have breakfast at either the Wellesley Buffet or the Retreat Lounge (served on a tray). For dinner, you can choose between the mentioned Wellesley Buffet or the Chinese Restaurant. Details to both of them follow in the next section.

Restaurants: Mei Yuan & Wellesley Buffet (both at Hotel Silks Place Resort)

As to the food at Hotel Silks Place Taroko, it was not the best we experienced on our Taiwan trip yet still decent enough. We had opted to be on half board and had to choose where we wanted to have dinner twice. As we do not like buffet restaurants, we went to the Chinese restaurant Mei Yuan on two evenings. And we had Shabu Shabu Hot Pot both times, yet we did not mind. This because it was prepared with good quality ingredients (which are boiled in a pot with soup in front of you).

When it comes to the Wellesley Buffet, we were quite a bit underwhelmed by the experience. Again, the quality of food was high and there was a wide range of culinary options. And the staff ensured that the buffet was kept immaculately.

Yet, it was like being in a bee house, with guests buzzing around and voices overlapping in every direction. It was not like something I expected from a five-star property.

3. Sun Moon Lake (center, 2-3 days)

About

Sun Moon Lake, at the foothills of the Central Mountain Range, is the island’s largest body of water. It is at an altitude of 762 m/2,500 ft and a hugely popular destination. And it is indeed a beautiful scenic view.

There are two lakeside towns, Shuishe village (more touristy) and Ita Thao (home of the Thao aboriginal tribe).

If you wonder what to do here, you can go boating, hiking, cycling and stand-up paddle boarding. However, swimming is not allowed (except at the annual mass swim). As to sights, visit the Wenwu Temple (view from the grounds above it towards the lake is splendid),

walk up to Ci En Pagoda (climb up to the top of it for the view) and go to the Antique Assam Tea Farm (self-guided tour, café & shop).

In case you have two full days in Sun Moon Lake as we had, consider a day trip to the Alishan High Mountain tea fields. Here Taiwan’s most famous tea (Oolong) grows. A good place to spend  a day is the small mountain village of Shizhuo. You can make the most beautiful hikes on the Shizhuo Trails System,

buy tea at the Lin Yuan Tea Factory (oldest tea grower in the area) and make a side trip to another village, Fenqihu (old street).

Hotel: The Lalu Sun Moon Lake

This is yet a former official government guest house of president Chiang Kai-shek. After extensive renovations, it was opened as a luxury hotel in 2002. And this is quite a property! It occupies a peninsula next to the Shuishe village. The hotel spans three buildings that blend harmoniously with the surrounding forested hillside. You have fantastic lake views from almost everywhere at the hotel. It is of a timeless Zen-like design.

All the 96 rooms except some stand-alone villas face the lake

and are exceptionally roomy.

Breakfast is served in the Oriental Brasserie and consists of a huge buffet with a diverse food offer, although it is not so geared towards western tastes. In terms of dining, five restaurants are at your disposal, although some only cater for room guests and member. Find out more about how it is dining at their two flagship dining-spots below.

Restaurants: The Lake View Chinese Restaurant, The Japanese Restaurant (both at The Lala) & KEN CAN by Ken Chan (at Hotel Fleur de Chine)

Both, the Lake View Chinese Restaurant and The Japanese Restaurant, were not as good as I had hoped for. While both offered good food, other aspects were not that satisfying. As far as the Chinese place (à la carte) is concerned, neither the banquet hall-like setting nor the service – we were poorly advised – were persuasive.

However, the Japanese spot (set menu at 3,600 TWD / 101 SFR/US$ with U.S. beef fillet) has an attractive setting (no view). When it comes to service, it was not much better than its Chinese counterpart (not many explanations to the food).

The good news in the Sun Moon Lake area is that there is an excellent gourmet restaurant around at the competitor hotel of Fleur de Chine. It is about KEN CAN by Ken Chan.

It is the second spot of this three-star Michelin chef at Hotel Palais de Chine in Taipei. If you are a foodie and have only one evening in the area, then dine here! We were delighted by the creative Cantonese set menu (3,980 TWD / 112 SFR/US$) as well as the courteous and informative service.

Looking back and ahead on my Taiwan journey

While this post went into a one-week itinerary of a Taiwan trip in style, the next is dedicated to a two-week one. Whereas the former only goes to the island’s north – yet covers the country’s three major highlights – , the second brings you to whole Taiwan. This longer journey has the same stops as the before mentioned Taiwan one-week itinerary plus three more. I started my reporting on this island with some considerations to make when planning a luxury trip to this island (my post). Two more blogposts to follow will highlight my personal highlights in terms of high-end lodging and (Michelin) fine dining restaurants.

Date of stay: April 2024

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Basel is known – amongst other things – for its proximity to the two neighboring countries of Germany and France. And just as Switzerland’s biggest city of Zurich, it has a good offer of fine-dining outlets. Whereas Zurich’s high-end culinary scene is very dynamic – see my post about it -, Basel is a bit more modest in this context. However, that does not mean it is not worth visiting as a foodie. Quite the opposite, it boasts one of only four three-star Michelin spots existing in Switzerland. Furthermore, it also has two two-star Michelin establishments. One of them was already the subject of an earlier post about Basel’s fine-dining scene. I will cover the other and the three-star spot in the sections to follow. And my overview on best fine-dining restaurants in Basel will also include one from abroad, which fits this city as meeting place for three countries.

I begin with the highflier here, the mentioned three-star Michelin place before coming to the two-star and the one-star establishments.

1. Restaurant Cheval Blanc by Peter Knogl at Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois

three-star Michelin restaurant featuring fantastic classic French cuisine with a twist in a splendid historical hotel dining-room by the water

This classic French high-end restaurant was for me the last on the list of all the three-star Michelin places in my home country. The reason for this was probably the fact that it is not considered as modern. And I am a big fan of contemporary cuisine. Yet, in hindsight I have to say this should not have hindered me so long. That is because everything was top-notch at my dinner at Cheval Blanc. The chef here, Peter Knogl, has been working here since 2007.

And since day one, he celebrates French haute cuisine, yet influenced by Mediterranean and Asian influences.

The chef is considered as king of sauces, and it really is exceptional what he accomplishes in this field. Each and every sauce was perfect, bursting with flavor and wonderfully balanced. But everything was of the highest standard, and this made by first rate produce and presented in a pleasantly reduced way.

And the setting is beautiful, at Basel’s most upscale luxury hotel – Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois – just by the river Rhine.

The 300 year old dining room (30 seats) is splendid. It is kept in a classical and somewhat opulent style, with intricate chandeliers and fine antiques.

And to my delight, the restaurant manager (Giuseppe Giliberti), although dressed in a black tailcoat, was not stiff at all but showed a good mixture of professionalism and relaxedness.

The dinner I had with my husband and friends at Cheval Blanc was utterly enjoyable. It was full of culinary highlights, accompanied by an immaculate service performance and the most glorious setting. This level of quality along with the highest possible rating (three Michelin stars, 19 point Gault Millau) comes with a price. Notwithstanding, it is still far from being astronomically expensive. On offer is a sole menu, either in the complete version (six courses for 320 SFR/US$) or in five courses (285 SFR/US$).

2. Restaurant Roots

two-star Michelin dining spot with excellent modern cuisine in relaxed ambiance a bit away from the city center at the river (with some service issues)

Our party of four enjoyed excellent modern food at Roots, and this in a chic contemporary setting.

Unfortunately, the dinner was overshadowed by an underwhelming service performance. Right after the opening we entered the premises and were welcomed with the words: Do you have a reservation? Of course we had one, otherwise you get no table at a two-star Michelin restaurant on a Saturday evening. And this was only the start to several service hiccups. It followed insufficient advice on Champagne selection, inflexible dining choices (see below) and not refilling our drinks. While we are at it, everything as to service was immaculate when related to food issues. The staff was obviously drilled to ensure that the cutlery was set when the chefs came to the table with their creations. They did this with every course, which was informative and entertaining at the same time.

Food wise, you can decide on six, seven, nine or ten courses (178/189/208/219 SFR/US$). The server let our party of four know that six courses involve following dishes: twice seafood, once vegetables, twice meat and once dessert. The seventh course would be a dessert, the eighth something with truffle, the ninth langoustine and the tenth cheese. When we asked whether we could have the truffle dish instead of the second dessert as seventh course, it was rejected. And this without giving an understandable reason. Be it as it may, the food we got was really remarkable. The cuisine of the young chef, Pascal Steffen, is innovative and often vegetable-based.

He started here in 2017, at the “Rhypark”, a convention center by the river Rhine a bit away from the city center.

The food is worth two Michelin stars (Roots got its second end of 2022), but this is not enough to create a memorable dinner experience. As a diner at a highly decorated venue (18 points Gault Millau) you certainly may expect a higher standard of service.

3. Restaurant La Table de l’Auberge at Auberge Saint-Laurent in Sierentz/Alsace (France)

well-made modern and traditional cuisine at historical coaching inn in nearby France with an one-star Michelin award

I mentioned it, Basel is located in the tri-border area of France, Germany and Switzerland. And because of that it is common that locals also go abroad for eating out. That is exactly what a dear friend from Basel and I did on a cloudy winter day when heading for Sierentz in the Alsace (France). You get here in less than 20 minutes by car. It is also possible to take the train (18 minute-ride plus 8-minute walk). A lovely 18th century coaching inn awaits you here in rural surroundings. The well-preserved Auberge Saint-Laurent oozes lots of traditional charm. And it offers – apart from ten guest rooms – two Michelin listed restaurants.

On our occasion, we were on our way to the one-star Michelin Restaurant La Table de l’Auberge (16 points Gault Millau). Yet – as my friend told me – the more relaxed Winstub À Côté (Bib Gourmand) is also a good choice. The property has been family-owned since 1982 by the Arbeit family. In 2010, the second generation took over. Chef Laurent, who continues his father’s work, trained in the kitchens of some big-name chefs (Haeberlin and Ducasse). He does this in a differentiated manner. Some traditional dishes that made the house famous such as the duck foie gras with sauerkraut jam are unchanged on the menu.

Furthermore, he revisits others classics and reinvents them in a more contemporary way. Plus, he does his own modern creations. And he was able to retain the Michelin star that his father had earned more than twenty years ago.

We arrived to find a newly refurbished dining room. It now has a fresh look yet without denying its classical origins.

In terms of food, you can choose between an à la carte offer and three menus. As to the former, starters are from 28 to 40 €, mains from 35 to 48 € and desserts from 15 to 20 €. Menu wise, there are three options: the classic “Gourmet” (62 €), the choice menu “Tout à votre Choix” (95 €) – both with foie gras – and the surprise menu “Surprises et Gourmandises” (125 €). My friend and I opted for the middle – with foie gras of course. And we liked what we got. For dessert, I requested a change as I wanted to try the “Tout petit vacherin glacé”. That was no problem, and it was heavenly, although not exactly “tout petit”. Quite the opposite, it was much too big – just as the foie gras. Otherwise, it was an enjoyable meal with a friendly and reserved but not stiff service.

Looking back as to dining in style in Switzerland

In case you are not only interested in best fine dining restaurants in Basel but in Zurich too, then check out my two former posts. One is about great options to dine in style in Zurich city, and this divided in casual places (four options) and sophisticated ones (3 spots). Furthermore, I also did an overview of recommended fine dining restaurants in the Zurich area, i.e. outside of the city. This is about three dining spots, all of them Michelin starred respectively by a Michelin star chef.

Date of visits: December 2023 – January 2024

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