Now it is to the details of a two-week Taiwan itinerary. My last post was about a one-week travel plan comprising the island’s north. If you have two weeks at your disposal, then you can also travel Taiwan’s south. Plus, you have the option to build in one more stay in the north. Such a travel plan allows you to take your time and to explore sights in the respective surroundings too. Again, I only included stops that ensure travel in style. That means places where you find options for staying at luxury hotels and dining at (Michelin) gourmet restaurants. Yet – as always – , I only considered establishments offering value for money.

There are six stops in total. Compared to the one-week itinerary that I described in my last post, there are three more. Two are in the south (Kenting National Park and Kaohsiung), one is in the north (a second Taipei stay). Find in the following my Google Map of a 17-day road trip in Taiwan that my husband and I did. It can be shortened to 14 days without any problems:

Overview on my Google Map of our 17-day Taiwan itinerary

As you could see, we started and ended the journey in Taipei with four stops in-between. The first stop was on the Island’s northeast, at the Taroko Gorge near the seaside town of Hualien. Then we traveled inland to Sun Moon Lake in the foothills of the Central Mountain Range. We continued towards south to the Kenting National Park. And before returning to Taipei, we had our one and only stay in a big city apart from Taipei, and this in Kaohsiung.

As I already went into the first three stops in my mentioned one-week travel plan, you find in this post about a two-week Taiwan itinerary only explanations to the last three ones (Kenting National Park, Kaohsiung and north Taipei). Again, I start with a short description of the respective town/region. Then I let you know what to do here in a few sentences. Finally, I go briefly into each of the high-end hotels we stayed and the (Michelin) fine dining spots we ate.

A 17-day Taiwan round trip with six stops in style

See details to stop 1 – 3 here

4. Kenting National Park (south, 2 nights)

About

The Kenting National Park occupies the entire southern tip of the country. And while Kenting is said to have the best beaches in Taiwan, they are subpar to those of typical beach destinations. Nonetheless, the area boasts a lovely coastal scenery and is well worth a full-day exploring.

Things to do here include: walk in the Sheding Natural Park with its huge coral rocks (volunteers guide you around if you wish), Sail “Nixon” Rock, Taiwan’s southernmost point, Longpan Park (great coastal views)

and Hengchun (old city wall with four ancient gates,

Old Street

with Patisserie Ce Moment).

Hotel: Gloria Manor

This is yet another property that has a connection to the former president Chiang Kai-shek. It used to be one of his presidential guesthouses. And this is easy to understand in light of the picturesque mountain and sea scenery you find here. The hotel is remotely located inside the Kenting National Forest Recreation Area, surrounded by tropical greenery.

Gloria Manor took over the site in 2012. The building convinces with minimalistic design that blends nicely into the natural setting. You find here 60 rooms in a range of categories. Yet it does have to be one with a sea view as this is probably the main attraction of staying here.

Breakfasts are excellent, you can make your choice out of several ones served on a tray.

And you can have it also in the pleasant outdoor area. Mu is the only restaurant on site, find some details below.

Restaurants: Mu Restaurant (at Hotel Gloria Manor)

At Gloria Manor’s Mu Restaurant you get excellent Taiwan cuisine with a modern twist. And the place strictly adheres to the principle “not in season, not on the menu”. The setting is relaxed yet still with an upscale touch. My husband and I dined here on both evenings and liked what we got. Good choices from the à la carte menu were Wonton Soup, Crab Omelet, Fried Rice with Pineapple & Dolphinfish, Mango Pomelo Sago or Baked Pudding.

There is also a set menu (1,680 TWD / 47 SFR/US$).

5. Kaohsiung (south, 3 nights)

About

Kaohsiung is Taiwan’s third most populous city and is home to the island’s largest port. While it long used to be an industrial city, it has been reorienting itself toward tourism as well as art and culture since since the turn of the millennium. This shows in the vast Pier-2 Art Center where former shipping warehouses were turned into shops and cafés. And there are museums, art installations and street art. I for one liked the dynamic vibe of Kaohsiung!

As to more classic sights here, the scenic Lotus Pond in the north of the city is an good place to go. It is known for its 20 temples or so along the shoreline and nearby.

And there is the Confucius Temple too. Another big name attraction in the area is the Fo Guang Shan Monastery, outside of town, which is the largest in all of Taiwan and quite a sight.

Last but not least, we used Kaohsiung for a day trip to Tainan. This is Taiwan’s original capital and still retains a traditional vibe. Go to the city center first (Confucius Temple, Hayashi Departement Store, Snail Alley & Shennong Street, two quaint streets;

then proceed to the Anping District (Anping Fort, Anping Old Street, Anping Treehouse).

Hotel: Silks Club

Silks Club is one kind of a cool, urban hotel, attracting business and leisure travelers alike. It is located in the emerging neighborhood of Qianzhen, opened in 2017. Already the sleek lobby with the reflecting pool of water impresses.

And it continues when it comes to the rooms. The 147 units have an average size of 66 sqm, floor-to-ceiling windows and oversized bathrooms.

The place for breakfast is In Jade Lounge – you get it on a tray plus there is small buffet, and it is a tasty affair.

You can also come here for drinks in the evening. The restaurant, a branch of the Japanese Ukai Tei, is divided into several sub-spots (Teppanyaki, Kaiseki & Grill). Find more info on the former below.

Restaurants: Ukai-tei Teppanyaki (at Silks Club), Marc L³ & Sho

For our Kaohsiung food adventures, my husband and I chose three Michelin dining spots. One even has a Michelin star (Sho), two are on the 50Best Discovery list (Sho & Marc L³).

I start with the “hotel restaurant”, Ukai-tea Teppanyki, where they serve a Wagyu menu (Rump 4,800 TWD, Sirloin 5,800 TWD, Tenderloin 6,500 TWD). We opted for the Sirloin (161 SFR/US$) and could witness quality ingredients being cooked on the iron plate right before our eyes. And we even had a chef who exclusively cooked for the two of us! That was quite an experience, especially when it was up to the preparation of the abalone (from live to death).

Our favorite dinner in Kaoshiung and probably on our whole Taiwan trip was the one at Marc L³. The three L’s stand for Live x Liberal x Limitless. Reservations here are difficult to get, and we had to pay our meal in advance (which was not a no-brainer to arrange). Yet, once seated at the counter (9 seats only), we were in for culinary magic! Unique French fare was prepared in front of us, and this as eight-course menu (3,960 TWD / 112 SFR/US$) in a relaxed ambiance.

And the chef is such a nice guy too, communicative, approachable and amiable! What a great evening we had here!

Dining at Sho, an outpost of the Tokyo famed Den Restaurant, was a epicurean highlight as well. We were treated to an exquisite Japanese meal with creative touches. Quite in contrast to Marc L³, it took place in a somewhat chilly ambiance. The place – a counter with 14 seats – had an almost clinical appearance. Notwithstanding that, we truly enjoyed the tasting menu (3,500 TWD + rice upgrade 700 TWD / 119 SFR/US$). And if you are wondering about the rice upgrade, go for it! It is a traditional rice dish cooked in an iron pot called a kama, once with Wagyu and the other time with scallops.

6. Taipei (Beitou District, north of the center, 3 nights)

About

Our second stay in Tapei was in Beitou, the capital’s most northern district. While it is not too far away from Taipei’s center (half an hour by MRT), it has a less urban feel. The hilly area is known for its hot springs and is close to beautiful nature.

We had planned to explore Taiwan’s north from Beitou. Yet we only managed to do one such day trip because of not so good weather. And this was to Jiufen,

a seaside town in the lush mountains northeast of Taipei (book a Taiwan tea time at Jiufen Artist Teahouse, expensive yet worthwhile;

escape the crowds by hiking the Jinguashi Aqueduct Trail). We left out the second one to Yangmingshan National Park on Taipei’s northern fringe. Instead, we headed to central Taipei once again, to the University District. And it was lively, even on a Sunday. And do not miss the sights in Beitou: Thermal Valley, Puji Temple,

Beitou Library, Xinbeitou Historic Station.

Hotel: Grand View Resort Beitou

While Beitou is not the first address for first timers to Taipei seeking to explore the city to the fullest, it was ideal for our purposes. Having already done the capital’s major sights, we longed for a quiet place to spend our last few days in Taiwan. Staying here is the best of both worlds: being in relative proximity to Taipei’s center and at the same surrounded by nature.

Grand View Resort Beitou is the most luxurious among the many hot-spring hotels that make use of the sulfurous hot-spring water that bubbles from the ground. The relatively large and modern property (opened in 2011) stands high on a slope with beautiful views of Beitou and beyond.

All the 66 guest rooms are spacious and come with hot-spring bathrooms, allowing a private soaking experience. I think the accommodations could use a little touch up, especially the wet area (the moisture from the hot springs does not help).

Breakfasts are really good here, served on a tray. And they even offered another variety on our third day. There are three restaurants, from which we tried out two (we did not eat at Aqua Deck with light continental food). Find more details in the next section.

Restaurants: Chinese Cuisine & C’est Bon (both at Hotel Grand View Resort)

We had dinner every evening at Hotel Grand View Resort Beitou. As I had read good things about the Chinese Cuisine – it is Michelin listed – , we went there twice.

One evening, we tried out the French place, C’est Bon.

While both offered fine food, we found C’est Bon better. We had a lovely dinner here indulging in immaculately prepared French food with a Taiwanese twist. Out of the four set menus, we ordered the one with Boston Lobster (3,080 TWD / 87 SFR/USD$), and we relished it.

As to the Chinese place, we had a not so good dining experience on our first evening. Whereas the food was good (we had opted for à la carte), service and setting were less so. Everything was better on our second dinner – we had the Vegetarian Set Menu (2,280 TWD / 64 SFR/US$). Yet C’est Bon has our love!

Looking back and ahead on my Taiwan journey

The start made some considerations to bear in mind when planning a (luxury) Taiwan trip (my post), followed by a proposal for one-week itinerary here. This is actually the first part of the journey my husband and I did on this island. It includes the three major travel highlights in this country, Taipei, Taroko Gorge and Sun Moon Lake. As luxury traveler and  fine dining lover, I also give recommendations as to where to stay and dine in style. In addition, I go into what to do in all theses places, plus some ideas for side trips. In this very post, you get the same thing, yet for the second part of our trip. Taken together, you have info on our original 17-day itinerary (that you can shorten to a 2-week Taiwan itinerary). Next on my blog, you will find out about my personal hotel and restaurant highlights in Taiwan in some more details.

Date of stay: April 2024

Pin it for later

The post Taiwan in style, a 2-week road trip itinerary first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Taiwan in style, a 2-week road trip itinerary appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

While my last post went into general considerations to make when planning a Taiwan trip, this one is about a concrete one-week itinerary. When my husband and I toured beautiful Formosa – as it was called by its discoverers – , we actually had 17 days at our disposal (for the whole island). Yet, you can shorten the journey to one week (north only). This still allows you to see the island’s three major highlights – Taipei, Taroko Gorge and Sun Moon Lake. And my one-week proposal is about a Taiwan trip in style, meaning staying in luxury hotels and dining in (Michelin) gourmet restaurants (if available).

Before coming to the details of the three individual stops, here my Google Map of this one-week Taiwan trip.

Overview on my Google Map of a 1-week Taiwan itinerary

No Taiwan trip is complete without exploring its capital of Taipei. While I put it as first destination on my Google Map, you can of course also do it at the end of the journey. The second stop is on the Island’s northeast, at the Taroko Gorge near the seaside town of Hualien. Then you travel inland to Sun Moon Lake in the foothills of the Central Mountain Range before returning to Taipei.

I start with a short description of the respective place. Then I let you know what to do here in a few sentences. Last but not least, I go briefly into a high-end hotel and some nearby (Michelin) fine dining spots.

A 1-week Taiwan round trip with three stops in style

1. Taipei (Songshan District, near the city center, 3 nights)

About

Taipei is a must for every Taiwan traveler. You find here a fascinating mix of Chinese, Japanese, indigenous and western influences. And although it is a deeply urban place, nature is never too far away. So, it is the ideal starting and/or ending point for your island exploring.

When it comes to activities, Taipei 101 for a view of the city and the Elephant Mountain for a view of Taipei 101 are musts for first timers to Taipei. Also the political Taipei around the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall has to be on every traveler’s agenda.

Further things to do are the Dihua Old Street,

The Dalongdong Baoan Temple

and the nearby Confucius Temple.

Hotel: Mandarin Oriental Taipei

Before setting off on our Taiwan round trip, we lodged at the Mandarin Oriental in the Songshan District. This business district (financial industry) is an okay location for exploring Taipei, however not the most ideal one. Most sights are in the following districts: Zhongzheng, Wanhua, Datong, Xinyi and Da’an. And Songshan is slightly too far north and east compared to the before mentioned ones. Yet, you are close to a MRT station and once on the subway, you get everywhere quickly enough.

As to the hotel, it is opulent indeed. While being a newly built complex (opened in 2014 together with THE ARCADE, a shopping center), it is reminiscent of Medieval European architecture in an eclectic style.

The 303 guest rooms are more spacious than at its competitors. They are classically furnished with contemporary touches and boast generous marbled bathrooms.

And you get a fabulous breakfast at Café Un Deux Trois, a modern buffet style restaurant. Service is as excellent as you might expect it with this prestigious hotel group. And rates are affordable enough, in contrast to many other MO hotels in Europe.

Restaurants: Holt & Hosu

UPDATE: Restaurant Holt’s website is no longer available

We did not have dinner at Mandarin Oriental Taipei – except some small bites in the M.O. Bar after a late arrival on our first day in Taiwan (which were good).

Instead we had decided on two Michelin listed restaurants in the adjacent neighborhood.

Holt is a one-star Michelin restaurant offering exquisite contemporary European food. On our evening, they still served creations by Canadian chef Jeffery Downs, although he had already left for good in the direction of his home country. We were told that they are now in a rebranding process.

The tasting menu we got (3,980 TWD / 112 SFR/US$) was one of the trip’s highlight food wise delivering very high quality.

While Holt was really great yet very European, we were keen on trying food prepared in a more Taiwanese way. So, we had opted for Hosu, a modern Taiwanese dining spot, which is Michelin listed. And we were delighted by this cute little place whose name means “Good Island”. They served a tasting menu (2,880 TWD / 81 SFR/US$) that surprised at every turn.

2. Taroko Gorge (northeast, 2-3 days)

Currently largely closed due to earthquake in April 2024!

About

Taroko Gorge is one of Taiwan’s top scenic attractions. It is a steep valley created by the Liwu river and makes part of the Taroko National Park. The first 18 km/11 mi of Highway 8, coming from Taiwan’s east coast, are what is known as Taroko Gorge. The thing to do here are hikes of various lengths. Usually one full day is enough to get quite a good insight. My husband and I stayed three nights here, and this right inside the gorge.

As to actual things to do, be advised that usually one or more sights or trails are closed (it is a geologically active site). So, check what is open before you go. We did the following activities (on one full day): Swallow Grotto (short walk), Buluowan Suspension Bridge (crossing the bridge only), Eternal Spring Shrine Trial (closed, you could only walk to the first Shrine), Baiyang Trail to Water Curtain Cave (we did not go in, one and a half hour),

Lushui Trail (only a short part, closed after Small Cave).

The second day, we made a day trip to the Hualien area and a bit more in the south direction. It lead us along the east coast to Qixingtan Beach, Qizingtan (quaint seaside town), Baqi Viewpoint (nice),

Jiqi Beach, Fengbin Skywalk (closed) and Xin She Rice Terraces. Then we returned inland via the towns of Guangfu, Fenglin and Shoufeng. Here we made a side trip to Liyu Lake before going back to the Taroko Gorge.

Hotel: Silks Place Taroko

Closed until mid 2024 due to earthquake in April 2024!

As announced, the hotel is located within the Taroko Gorge. Precisely, it is in Tianxiang, a small village at the top of the gorge, about one hour from Hualien City. If you value the best possible situation for exploring the Taroko Gorge, then you are right here. The property used to be an official government guest house under the regime of president Chiang Kai-shek. In 2010, it opened after a renovation as Silks Place Taroko.

While the hotel’s exteriors are not necessarily a feast for the eyes, its interiors are nice, kept in a contemporary style. The 160 rooms are split over two floors, the Retreat Floor and Resort Floor. The former are more luxurious and offer access to the top floor Retreat Lounge where complimentary snacks and drinks are served all day.

As a Retreat Floor guest, you can have breakfast at either the Wellesley Buffet or the Retreat Lounge (served on a tray). For dinner, you can choose between the mentioned Wellesley Buffet or the Chinese Restaurant. Details to both of them follow in the next section.

Restaurants: Mei Yuan & Wellesley Buffet (both at Hotel Silks Place Resort)

As to the food at Hotel Silks Place Taroko, it was not the best we experienced on our Taiwan trip yet still decent enough. We had opted to be on half board and had to choose where we wanted to have dinner twice. As we do not like buffet restaurants, we went to the Chinese restaurant Mei Yuan on two evenings. And we had Shabu Shabu Hot Pot both times, yet we did not mind. This because it was prepared with good quality ingredients (which are boiled in a pot with soup in front of you).

When it comes to the Wellesley Buffet, we were quite a bit underwhelmed by the experience. Again, the quality of food was high and there was a wide range of culinary options. And the staff ensured that the buffet was kept immaculately.

Yet, it was like being in a bee house, with guests buzzing around and voices overlapping in every direction. It was not like something I expected from a five-star property.

3. Sun Moon Lake (center, 2-3 days)

About

Sun Moon Lake, at the foothills of the Central Mountain Range, is the island’s largest body of water. It is at an altitude of 762 m/2,500 ft and a hugely popular destination. And it is indeed a beautiful scenic view.

There are two lakeside towns, Shuishe village (more touristy) and Ita Thao (home of the Thao aboriginal tribe).

If you wonder what to do here, you can go boating, hiking, cycling and stand-up paddle boarding. However, swimming is not allowed (except at the annual mass swim). As to sights, visit the Wenwu Temple (view from the grounds above it towards the lake is splendid),

walk up to Ci En Pagoda (climb up to the top of it for the view) and go to the Antique Assam Tea Farm (self-guided tour, café & shop).

In case you have two full days in Sun Moon Lake as we had, consider a day trip to the Alishan High Mountain tea fields. Here Taiwan’s most famous tea (Oolong) grows. A good place to spend  a day is the small mountain village of Shizhuo. You can make the most beautiful hikes on the Shizhuo Trails System,

buy tea at the Lin Yuan Tea Factory (oldest tea grower in the area) and make a side trip to another village, Fenqihu (old street).

Hotel: The Lalu Sun Moon Lake

This is yet a former official government guest house of president Chiang Kai-shek. After extensive renovations, it was opened as a luxury hotel in 2002. And this is quite a property! It occupies a peninsula next to the Shuishe village. The hotel spans three buildings that blend harmoniously with the surrounding forested hillside. You have fantastic lake views from almost everywhere at the hotel. It is of a timeless Zen-like design.

All the 96 rooms except some stand-alone villas face the lake

and are exceptionally roomy.

Breakfast is served in the Oriental Brasserie and consists of a huge buffet with a diverse food offer, although it is not so geared towards western tastes. In terms of dining, five restaurants are at your disposal, although some only cater for room guests and member. Find out more about how it is dining at their two flagship dining-spots below.

Restaurants: The Lake View Chinese Restaurant, The Japanese Restaurant (both at The Lala) & KEN CAN by Ken Chan (at Hotel Fleur de Chine)

Both, the Lake View Chinese Restaurant and The Japanese Restaurant, were not as good as I had hoped for. While both offered good food, other aspects were not that satisfying. As far as the Chinese place (à la carte) is concerned, neither the banquet hall-like setting nor the service – we were poorly advised – were persuasive.

However, the Japanese spot (set menu at 3,600 TWD / 101 SFR/US$ with U.S. beef fillet) has an attractive setting (no view). When it comes to service, it was not much better than its Chinese counterpart (not many explanations to the food).

The good news in the Sun Moon Lake area is that there is an excellent gourmet restaurant around at the competitor hotel of Fleur de Chine. It is about KEN CAN by Ken Chan.

It is the second spot of this three-star Michelin chef at Hotel Palais de Chine in Taipei. If you are a foodie and have only one evening in the area, then dine here! We were delighted by the creative Cantonese set menu (3,980 TWD / 112 SFR/US$) as well as the courteous and informative service.

Looking back and ahead on my Taiwan journey

While this post went into a one-week itinerary of a Taiwan trip in style, the next is dedicated to a two-week one. Whereas the former only goes to the island’s north – yet covers the country’s three major highlights – , the second brings you to whole Taiwan. This longer journey has the same stops as the before mentioned Taiwan one-week itinerary plus three more. I started my reporting on this island with some considerations to make when planning a luxury trip to this island (my post). Two more blogposts to follow will highlight my personal highlights in terms of high-end lodging and (Michelin) fine dining restaurants.

Date of stay: April 2024

Pin it for later

The post Taiwan in style, a 1-week road trip itinerary first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Taiwan in style, a 1-week road trip itinerary appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

I just wanted to let you know that I have updated my Switzerland directories for traveling and dining in style for 2024! There are the four of them. The first two are about where to go in my lovely home country. You find not only a grand tour of Switzerland but also an overview of premium destinations for the discerning traveler. Furthermore, I inform on where to stay and where to dine in style while traveling along the grand tour through this Alpine nation.

Here are the details:

1. Guide to visiting Switzerland
2. Premium destinations in Switzerland
3. Guide to luxury hotels in Switzerland, part one – core and west
4. Guide to luxury hotels in Switzerland, part two – Alps and east
5. Directory to fine dining in Switzerland, part one – core and west
6. Directory to fine dining in Switzerland, part two – Alps and east

I would like to highlight in particular my advice to foodies spots in Switzerland (5. and 6.).

It is based on dining directories just as the Michelin Guide and the Gault Millau Guide. And whenever they publish a new edition I amend my articles accordingly. But of course my personal opinions also play a role when creating them.

One more remark to end this short blogpost about my freshly updated Switzerland dine and travel in style guides. It is about how to use them. In case you do not want to read them from A to Z – which I would perfectly understand as they are quite long – , then proceed as follows. If you are only interested in a specific place, go to the contents section and click at “show”. Go to the spot of your choice and only read the correspondent paragraph!

Happy traveling and dining to all of you in 2024! And maybe let me know what you think about my directories.

The post My Switzerland travel & dine in style directories first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post My Switzerland travel & dine in style directories 2024 appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

I just wanted to let you know that I have updated my Switzerland directories for traveling and dining in style for 2023! There are the four of them. The first two are about where to go in my lovely home country. You find not only a grand tour of Switzerland but also an overview of premium destinations for the discerning traveler. Furthermore, I inform on where to stay and where to dine in style while traveling along the grand tour through this Alpine nation.

Here are the details:

1. Guide to visiting Switzerland
2. Premium destinations in Switzerland
3. Guide to luxury hotels in Switzerland, part one – core and west
4. Guide to luxury hotels in Switzerland, part two – Alps and east
5. Directory to fine dining in Switzerland, part one – core and west
6. Directory to fine dining in Switzerland, part two – Alps and east

I would like to highlight in particular my advice to foodies spots in Switzerland (5. and 6.).

It is based on dining directories just as the Michelin Guide and the Gault Millau Guide. And whenever they publish a new edition I amend my articles accordingly. But of course my personal opinions also play a role when creating them.

One more remark to end this short blogpost about my freshly updated Switzerland dine and travel in style guides. It is about how to use them. In case you do not want to read them from A to Z – which I would perfectly understand as they are quite long – , then proceed as follows. If you are only interested in a specific place, go to the contents section and click at “show”. Go to the spot of your choice and only read the correspondent paragraph!

Happy traveling and dining to all of you in 2023! And maybe let me know what you think about my directories.

The post My Switzerland travel & dine in style directories first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post My Switzerland travel & dine in style directories 2023 appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Madeira’s offer of high-quality dining spots has developed since my first stay on this Portuguese Island more than ten years ago. At the time, I considered the fine dining scene in Madeira as somewhat limited, with quite a number of tourist traps. This has changed in the meantime. And even the prestigious Michelin guide has awarded three stars since the last decade or so. In addition, the island also saw the appearance of contemporary dining outlets. There are still lots of traditional restaurants, which is a good thing as long as they serve seriously good food. In any case, you will make finds when looking for places to dine in style in Madeira!

While I do not claim to give a full overview of each and every gourmet spot in Madeira, I think that I can give some advice to foodies into (Michelin) fine dining who also have a liking for modern restaurants. To make it easier to find the right restaurants, I divided them in categories. I will start with the top tier places, then continue with modern ones before coming to more traditional dining outlets with a twist.

1. Top tier fine dining in Madeira

If you are on the lookout for the best of the best, the list of fine dining in Madeira is short. It contains only two names. Both of them are at luxury hotels, and this at two neighboring ones.

1.1. Restaurant Il Gallo d’Oro at The Cliff Bay (2-star Michelin)

This is the first restaurant that received a Michelin star in Madeira. That was back in 2009. The second followed in 2017. And it also figures on the list “50 Best Discovery” of the The World’s 50 Best Restaurants. It is located within the five-star The Cliff Bay

and has been run by French chef Benoît Sinthon since 2004.

Il Gallo d’Oro initially used to be an Italian restaurant. When Benoît Sinthon took over, this changed. Thenceforth, a Mediterranean and Iberian inspired cuisine has been on offer using finest local as well as Portuguese and Spanish produce. Before, the chef had gained experience at a number of Michelin starred establishments, especially in France.

When staying at Les Suites at The Cliff Bay, I enjoyed a fabulous dinner at Il Gallo d’Oro. Already the setting is very nice. You pass the wine cellar before coming to the dining-room, which has been recently updated in an elegant style with modern touches. It further impresses with large windows and high ceilings.

In terms of food, there are two menus to choose from, either the Terroir Experience (7 courses 175 €, 10 courses 225 €) or the Top Experience (6 courses 165 €, 7 courses 185 €, 9 courses 215 €, 11 courses 275 €). While the cuisine here truly stands out as delicious and inventive, I found it price wise a bit over the top, in particular for Madeiran standards.

The level of service at Il Gallo d’Oro was generally good. I was warmly welcomed by the maître d’ and was well looked after during the first two thirds of the evening. Towards the end of the meal, the staff’s performance tapered off. The servers became increasingly inattentive. And when I left, there was nobody to say good-bye to me!

Highlights of the Top Experience Menu

Out of the six courses I had, which were all excellent, I have picked three of them.

I start with the third course, Halloween memories. It was a fantastic pumpkin risotto topped with truffles.

Then I would like to showcase the main course, a fruity pigeon creation.

And I have to admit that I have never eaten a better version of this game dish!

Finally the dessert, it was a deconstructed interpretation of a typical sweet treat from Madeira. It consisted of passionfruit, cookie and coffee, and again, it was heavenly!

1.2. Restaurant William at the Reid’s Palace (1-star Michelin)

Here Louis Pestana is at work, a Madeiran-born chef. He has spent his entire career at the Reid’s Palace

– 31 years – , only interrupted by short stays abroad. After getting his own restaurant William in 2015, named after the Reid’s founder, he gained a Michelin star two years later.

At the William, you get modern European cuisine, made with local produce whenever possible. The restaurant’s interiors have a contemporary feel, in sharp contrast to the (traditional) rest of the hotel. It is a spacious room on two levels, with a huge window front.

On my stay – where it was only open on Wednesday – , a five-course menu was on offer (120 €). It included either a fish or meat course as main as well as coffee and petit fours to end the meal. While everything was of great quality, carefully prepared and refined enough, I missed a certain wow factor. Nevertheless, it was a fine meal in a nice ambiance and served by a pleasant staff. And Restaurant William is certainly a gain for fine dining in Madeira.

Highlights of the tasting menu

I liked the tomato and plum gazpacho with smoked eel. Whereas it was not a particularly imaginative dish, it was full of taste and provided a nice textural contrast.

The main course was seared tuna with a red pepper sauce, a traditional molho vilão. It was immaculately done yet not really surprising flavor wise.

What I liked most, was the sweet dish, a lemon verbena creme brûlée. While it was a dessert classic, the add-ons as loquat jam, white chocolate mousse and lime crumble made it an amazing taste combination.

2. Modern fine dining in Madeira

The offer of restaurants serving good food in a contemporary setting is still scarce. Precisely, I can think of three places that fit this description. First, a restaurant at a luxury hotel, second, two sister dining spots in Funchal’s center.

2.1. Avista Restaurant & Lounge (Bib Gourmand Michelin)

This hip dining outlet is located at Les Suites at The Cliff Bay.

On my nine-day stay at the hotel, I had dinner or lunch at this Michelin listed restaurant on seven occasions. So I ate my way through the entire menu! And I liked what I got.

Benoît Sinthon, two-star Michelin chef from Il Gallo d’Oro, oversees the kitchen. Here João Luz is in charge. The Avista is divided in two parts. On the first floor, there is the Mediterranean concept.

Here they serve uncomplicated starter dishes to share

before it is time for meat or fish from the Josper grill.

To end the feast, sample from their excellent ice-cream

or go for their dessert of the day.

On Saturdays and Sundays, you have an additional choice. Then Asian cuisine is available on the restaurant’s second floor.

The range here goes from ceviche to poke, tempura and sushi or sashimi.

I liked Avista’s vibrant ambiance and its seaside location, where you either dine inside a stylish glass cube or on the beautiful terrace. Staff is relaxed yet hospitable. And dining here will not break the bank. If you are a hotel guest, you can book an enhancement for 42 € that allows you to have three courses here.

2.2. Akua and Kampo, two restaurants by Júlio Pereira

These are two vibrant places with a relaxed feel in Funchal’s core where you get modern, well-made dishes. Both are similar in appearance, with a minimalist decor, a counter with a few seats, an open kitchen and products showcased on your way in. Staff is laid-back yet amiable and more than ready to help you with making your choice.

Spanish-born chef Júlio Pereira Kampo came to Madeira after having worked at restaurants in Italy, Spain and Brazil. His wife is Madeiran and he had been looking for a better quality of life once having a family. He started with Kampo, which focuses on meat, end of 2018.

This was followed by Akua, half a year later, which specializes in fish.

My husband and I opted for Akua, the seafood restaurant, and were not disappointed with our experience here.

We began with sourdough bread

and continued with ceviche and cured scabbard fish.

For main, we had creamy carabinieri and seafood rice.

And we ended with a creation made of white chocolate, black olive and passion fruit and coconut “quindim”, a Brasilian coconut pudding.

Everything we had at Akua was great and reasonably priced. And I presume that this is not any different at Kampo, the “meat place”. After all, the chef learned at his father’s butcher’s shop, when he still was a kid!

3. Traditional fine dining in Madeira – with a twist

There is no shortage of traditional dining spots in Madeira. While most of them are more on the rustic side, fewer are in a classical style. I limit myself on the latter as dining in style on this island can only be expected here. On my recent stay, I had dinner at three of them.

3.1. Villa Cipriani (Michelin Plate)

This restaurant belongs to the Reid’s Palace, it is located in a neighboring manor house.

You have here superb views not only of the Atlantic Ocean but also of the hotel’s main building and of Funchal, especially from the terrace.

And you can expect fine dining in Madeira at its best at Villa Cipriani!

I have eaten here twice, on my recent stay and the other time 14 years ago. And both time, I enjoyed an excellent meal. Not without reason, this dining venue is listed in the Michelin guide. The fare here is upscale Italian. It is not a simple trattoria as you might guess from the red–and–white checkered tablecloths. The level of service is high and prices at Villa Cipriani are adequate, although not inexpensive. Hey, but it is the Reid’s!

From the extensive menu, I went for seafood and fish. First I had the crab venetian style,

followed by sea bass risotto,

which were both good choices. The same can be said for the tiramisu.

They know here how to prepare Italian classics with a contemporary twist! And the atmosphere on the lively terrace was pleasant, too.

3.2. Restaurant Armazém do Sal (Michelin Plate)

Armazém do Sal is set in Funchal’s core at a 200-year-old building that once served as a salt warehouse.

The dining room features a stone wall and wooden beam ceilings. This together with the tables draped with white floor–length tablecloths and comfortable chairs makes it an elegant setting.

Traditional food with modern accents is served here, by accommodative and informative staff. And it is the only restaurant in downtown Funchal that is listed in the Michelin guide.

The restaurant caters for foreigners and locals likewise. While the former have their meal in the chic dining room, the latter do so in the vestibule or in the outdoor area. The menu is cleverly structured, neither too large nor too small, with lots of appealing dishes. I started with snapper ceviche, made with tiger’s milk and paired with avocado and fried banana.

For main, I decided for black scabbard fish in combination with lime risotto, banana chutney and vegetables.

And I was delighted with my choices, which were of high quality, perfectly prepared and nicely arranged. And all this came moderately priced, a real find if you look for fine dining in Madeira!

3.3. Franco’s Corner

And to end this blogpost about where to dine in style in Madeira’s capital of Funchal, here a restaurant where you get rather simple yet well-made food in a nice ambiance. And this is about Franco’s Corner. On offer here is a mix of international classics and regional food.

The restaurant is located in a not so frequented area of Funchal’s hotel zone. When you are approaching, you might guess that it is some sort of neighborhood dining venue. But a close look at Franco’s Corner shows that it is a place with a rustic-chic decor

where a very present maître d’ – I assume Franco – takes care of the guests. And he does this in an amiable and hospitable way.

As to food offerings, there is quite a selection of cold starters, soups, fish, meat, vegetarian dishes and desserts at your disposal. Some are more international staples, others are Portuguese specialties. I chose the soup of the day as a starter.

Then I had black scabbard fish breaded with corn bread and almonds, accompanied by vegetables.

While everything was correctly done and good in taste, I found it a bit on the staid side.

Looking back to my other Madeira posts

A travel info post made the start of my mini series about this destination.

This was followed by an overview where to go in Madeira for staying in style, i.e. luxury hotels worth the name. As a next step, I looked into two of those, the Reid’s Palace and Les Suites at The Cliff Bay. And the present blogpost – as you know – was about recommended (Michelin) fine dining in Madeira.

Date of visit: November 2021

Pin it for later

The post Where to dine in style in Madeira’s capital Funchal, Portugal first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Where to dine in style in Madeira’s capital Funchal, Portugal appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

In my last post, I informed about Madeira as a travel destination. Now it is the turn of the luxury hotel landscape on this island in the North Atlantic. I will start with a short account of the beginnings of the hotel industry here. In a second step, there will be an overview of recommended luxury hotels in Madeira. Separate blogposts will cover how it is staying and dining in style at two upscale Madeira accommodations (Reid’s Palace and Les Suites at the Cliff Bay). And to close, yet another post will be about where to head for (Michelin) fine dining on the island (inside and outside of hotels).

Development of Madeira’s luxury hotel industry

How it all started

As I outlined in my post about everything you have to know when traveling to Madeira, this island has a long history of tourism. While it started with therapeutic tourism in the 19th century, it soon became popular for its beautiful scenery and its mild, semi-tropical climate. The latter fact even made it to a year-round destination. In contrast to other destinations in the North Atlantic (Canary Islands), it is not your typical place for beach vacations. Due to the lack of sandy beaches and stable weather conditions it is rather ideal for active travel. Having said that, lounging poolside and seaside is an option here, too. After all, there is a pleasant climate all year round, albeit it is sometimes on the capricious side.

Madeira’s first luxury hotel

The first luxury hotel on the island of Madeira was the Reid’s Palace, set on cliff tops in subtropical gardens overlooking the Atlantic Ocean (my review). This legendary luxury hotel was built by the Scotsman William Reid, who made his fortune in the Madeiran wine trade. It was opened in 1891, shortly after his death, by his two sons. Most of its visitors at the time belonged to the wealthy European – and particularly the British – aristocracy.

What was next

On the back of William Reid’s success, several other hotels followed. Yet beds were still limited until the opening of the airport in 1963. Another grand dame here was the Savoy Classic. It was built in 1912 and was especially frequented by British aristocrats, too. While the Reid’s Palace was able to survive, this was not the case for the Savoy Classic. It became a relic of the past and was torn down in 2008.

For a long time, Madeirans relied on elite tourism. This resulted in a high number of four- and five-star establishments until the 1970s. From then on, the number of hotels catering to middle-classes visitor increased. And the island developed to a highly popular tourist destination. In 2019, there were roughly eight million overnight stays by visitors. The most important countries of origin are the United Kingdom, Germany and France. And Madeira largely escaped mass tourism because people come here not primarily for sea, sun and sand.

Current luxury hotel situation in Madeira

When looking for a five-star hotel around Madeira’s capital of Funchal, you are overwhelmed by the choice. There are more than twenty of them. At a closer inspection, it becomes clear that not all of them will meet the requirements of  a demanding clientele.

In my opinion, quite a few of the five-star establishments on the island do not deserve this classification. The ones in question do not look like luxury hotels and they are not priced accordingly either. To be precise, they are neither luxurious enough nor as pricey as you would expect. In fact, you can reside at a five-star here for a bargain rate.

Nevertheless, there is a number of luxury hotels in Madeira which deliver what they promise. And which will please to discerning guests, as well. I will go into them in the section after next. First, I will give an overview of available five-star hotels on the island.

Overview of luxury hotels in Madeira

First, an introductory remark to hotel names in Madeira. Some accommodations come with the byname of quinta. This is a former mansion that has been converted in a boutique hotel. So, it actually is a historic property. And these quintas are often a bit away from the sea, mostly in the hill tops.

Further it is to be noted that many accommodations in Funchal – not only five-star establishments – are located in a special area. It is called hotel zone and is west from Praça do Infante. You find here concrete palaces and high-rise buildings that grow into the sky. The reason for this – not very attractive – building style is the lack of space. Hotels are usually meant to be as close to the sea as possible. And in Madeira the space between the rocky coast and the mountains framing the bay is limited.

Worth mentioning is also the fact that there is not a single international hotel chain present in Madeira. Sheraton and Holiday Inn used to be here in the 1970s, but not for a long time. Instead, you find on the island – among others – the Pestana brand. This is Portugal’s largest hotel group. There are four Pestana five-star accommodations in Madeira. Furthermore, you find several “quinta hotels” in the luxury segment. And the Spanish hotel group Melia is present, as well (one five-star).

Now I come to those luxury hotels in Funchal and surroundings that I personally consider as “good to go”. These are such ones that offer a true five-star experience and come with good reviews, too (at least 4.5 with TripAdvisor and 9.0 with Booking.com).

“Good to go” luxury hotels in and around Funchal

I start with the ones I have already been resp. their sister hotels. This will be followed by a (short) list of other accommodations that I think will also deliver in terms of being “really luxurious”. Please note that this assessment is solely based on my personal opinion. I do not want to rule out the possibility that there are more of them.

1. Reid’s Palace, a Belmond Hotel (stay in 2021)

Madeira’s grand old dame is still one of the best options to stay in style on the island. And it is probably the most expensive one, at least if you go for a reasonably sized room. Come here if you want to immerse in a long gone era of grandeur, history and glamour. You can still get the feeling how it was in the late 1800s! And its location is unrivaled, dramatically perched on a rugged cliff. The sea is close – just walk down the steps to the sea deck – and the same is true for Funchal’s town center (22 minutes by foot).

Find a detailed review of my recent stay here on my blog soon.

2. Les Suites at The Cliff Bay, PortoBay (stay in 2021)

This new addition to The Cliff Bay (see below) was opened in 2019. You find here suites only, all of them spacious and modernly designed. And there are only 23 of them, most of them in the new wing. Two 100-year-old mansions are also part of the property. As to its location, Les Suites at The Cliff Bay is between The Cliff Bay and the Reid’s Palace, on a cliff top and in walking distance to Funchal’s core (25 minutes).

In case you want to know more about this luxury hotel, one of my next blogposts will go into it.

3. The Cliff Bay, Porto Bay (stay in sister hotel 2021)

Although I have not resided at The Cliff Bay itself, I was able to have a close look at it on my recent stay at its sister hotel Les Suites at Cliff Bay. While this of course did not include the guest rooms, this should be no issue as they all got a new look in 2021. Apropos look, the building’s aesthetics might not be state-of-the-art, as its opening dates back to 1994. Yet it persuades with a top setting on a promontory with sea access and a closeness to the town center of Funchal (28 minutes by foot).

There will be no separate hotel review of this hotel as I have not actually stayed here. Nonetheless, you will find some information about it in my post about Les Suites at Cliff Bay, to be published soon on this blog.

4. Quinta da Casa Branca (stay in 2007)

I stayed here back in 2007 on my first trip to Madeira. At the time, my husband and I together with our teenage son had a great time at this hotel, comprised of a new wing along a historic manor house. And to my amazement, it is still considered to be a top address when looking for staying in style on this island.

Quinta da Casa Branca was opened in 1998. In 2002, a new wing was added – our choice for lodging in 2007 – , which made it Madeira’s first design hotel. And apparently, these accommodations have been refurbished recently. The ones in the manor house are kept in an antique style. The hotel’s best asset is its setting in beautiful botanical gardens, set back from the road.

In terms of location, it is in the immediate neighborhood of the Reid’s Palace and Les Suites at The Cliff Bay. In contrast to them, the Quinta da Casa Branca is on the other side of the road, so there is no sea view to speak of here – and no sea access either. To reach Funchal’s downtown, you need about 26 minutes by foot.

5. Other seemingly “good to go” luxury hotels in Madeira

From what I read and heard, the Savoy Hotels & Resorts promise a genuinely luxurious hotel experience, too. As to five-star establishments, there are three of them in Madeira.

First of all, there is the new Savoy Palace that replaced the Savoy Classic (torn down in 2008). It was opened in 2019 – after some hiccups before its erection. It is the island’s largest hotel, shaped like an undulating wave. And this modern accommodation is the first in Madeira that became a member of the prestigious The Leading Hotels of the World. While it is not directly by the sea, it offers ocean views thanks to its hill setting. And it is favorably located near Funchal’s center (16 minutes by foot).

Next there is the Royal Savoy, opened in the early 2000s. You cannot claim that it is an architectural gem. But what it lacks in style, it makes up with its seaside location and its closeness to Funchal’s core (19 minutes by foot). And Royal Savoy’s guest rooms seem to be in a good shape (newly renovated).

Last on the list is the Savoy Saccharum in the coastal town of Calheta in the west of Madeira. This newly built hotel opened in 2015 on the site of a former sugar cane mill – hence the name. It is a large, contemporary construction, well integrated with the surrounding landscape. The hotel is located seaside – separated by a road – , 38 minutes by car from Funchal’s center.

Looking back and forward

My last post was about all the essential information on Madeira when traveling to this island off the western African coast. The current one went into which luxury hotels in Madeira to choose for (truly) staying in style. In the time to come, there will be reviews of two of the best high-end accommodations, the Reid’s Palace (my review) and Les Suites at The Cliff Bay (my review).

And to end this mini-series, I will inform about where to go for (Michelin) fine dining in this “flower paradise”.

Date of stay: November 2021

Pin it for later

The post Where to stay in style in Funchal/Madeira off the western African coast first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Where to stay in style in Funchal/Madeira off the western African coast appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Have you ever heard of the flower island of Madeira? If you are European, you most probably have as it is a highly popular travel destination in the area. If you are American, you may not. Until recently, there was no direct flight from the U.S. to this beautiful mountainous island west of Africa. That changed in November last year, when SATA Azores Airlines launched its first-ever nonstop flight from New York City to Funchal, its capital. If you wonder why you should visit Madeira, I have compiled below all the important information that makes this year-round destination so attractive to (active) travelers.

Before I go into Madeira’s features, first a few lines about my motivation to advertise this island.

My relation to Madeira Island

While I usually write about where to stay and dine in style everywhere I go, I make an exception for this place. And that is because I became such a big fan of this island with its incredible diversity of flora. When I first visited Madeira back in spring 2007, I wanted to come back ever since. It took me 14 years to realize my intention. And this time came end of October last year. And again, I was totally awed by this island with its balmy climate and its lovely scenery.

Hence, I decided to highlight its important features before going into my usual writing about where to go for best luxury hotels and (Michelin) fine dining. Just a small spoiler, it does not disappoint in this aspect neither! And to my asthonisment, staying and and dining in style can be quite affordable in Madeira, too!

Now to everything you need to know about this autonomous Portuguese region. I especially address Americans in this context, who now have the chance to travel here by a nonstop eight-hour flight for the first time ever.

Madeira destination information

First, I will point out a few major facts about this island. Second, there will be more specific information on the individual topics.

What is Madeira known for?

• Madeira is a well-known and established travel destination (for Europeans, four-hour flight from many European countries).
• This island is one of the outermost regions of the European Union (in the North Atlantic off the African coast).
• It is a flower island; you find here a plant richness that is one of a kind.
• This place is a mountainous beauty where south and north side are quite different from each other.
• This autonomous Portuguese region is a year-round destination, the weather is always mild.
• While lounging poolside and oceanside is an option, Madeira is not a place for a conventional beach vacation.
• This destination is rather targeted for active visitors; there is a myriad of activities, especially “levada” walking (levadas are irrigation channels with bank side pathways).
• The island is famous for its historic Madeira wine, which is a fortified resp. liqueur wine
• Madeirans are joyful, hospitable and open-minded; and they have a good to excellent command of English

So much to key sentences about Madeira. Next are more details to the respective points.

Where lies Madeira?

Madeira Island is part of the Madeira Archipelago, along with Porto Santo Island as well as the Desertas and Selvagens Islands. It is in the North Atlantic, 900 km (560 mi) from mainland Portugal, 600 km (375 mi) from the Moroccan coast and 450 km (280 mi) north of the Canary Islands. While Madeira belongs to Portugal, it is an autonomous region. And this island is one of the outermost regions of the European Union.

Funchal – that means fennel bay – , on the island’s south side, is Madeira’s capital. It is by far the biggest town here, where roughly half of its quarter million residents live.

What can you expect in terms of nature and landscape in Madeira?

Madeira’s creation is the result of volcanic activity. It is also called a flower pot due to its form. On both sides of the mountainous island center, there are high plateaus. You find here deep gorges that open up into wide valleys on the coast. Sandy beaches are scarce – and if there are, they are with black sand, because of the island’s volcanic origins. Instead you find lots of jagged cliffs.

When the first settlers arrived in the 15th century, everything was densely wooded. That is the reason why they called it Madeira, which means wood. It was prehistoric laurel wood, which has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1999. The settlers cut down this primary laurel wood almost completely. Nowadays only scant leftovers of it remain. Nevertheless, there is still lots of (secondary) tropical greenery. From 700 to 1,550 m (2,300 ft to 5,090 ft) you find subtropical laurel trees, higher up fern and bushes. Two thirds of the island are under nature protection.

In terms of crop plants, the settlers started with sugar cane. This plant was quickly repressed by vineyards (for the famous Madeiran liquor wine). Other plants just as bananas, maracujas, guavas, papayas and mango were also introduced.

Worth a mention in this context might also be the Dragon Tree. It is endemic only to Madeira, the Canary Islands and Cape Verde. While it used to be abundant in Madeira, the tree population was cut down because of its plant sap, the dragon blood. The red sap was used a coloring agent. Nowadays, you find this tree almost exclusively in the island’s botanical gardens.

Why is Madeira called flower island?

Madeira’s volcanic soil is fertile. In addition, there are humid trade winds that cause a relatively high precipitation throughout the year. Both  together with lots of sunshine results in an incredible diversity of flora. I have already gone into the subject of the laurel forest above. Now, it is the turn of flowers.

Most of the flowers you find here are not endemic. In the 18th century, merchants brought exotic plants from all over the globe to Madeira. And this because the island served as a stopover on their way to England. Here they could acclimatize in the mild climate before they were shipped to their final destination. From South Africa stem the birds of paradise or the torch lily. Japan supplied hydrangea

or orchids.

Mexico was the country of origin of dahlia or zinnia.

If you want to have a close look at Madeira’s sea of flowers, visits to the Madeira Botanical Gardens

and the Monte Palace Tropical Gardens are must-do activities.

The former is a 80,937 sqm (20 acres) property with magnificient views of Funchal. They used to be part of the William Reid’s estate (the owner of the famous Reid’s Hotel). These gardens feature more than 2,000 species of exotic plants and is divided in five different parts. The latter is located even higher up above Funchal in Monte and covers a surface of 68,800 sqm (17 acres). Here you find 1,000 plant species plus one of the largest cycad collections in the world. It is well worth a wander around their maze of pathways.

What is known about Madeira’s history of tourism?

Madeira has a long history of tourism. It all began with its important position on the route to colonies and trading points as from the 15th century. Especially British merchants also set up their own trading firms here. First they traded with sugar, then with wine. And a small but powerful group of British residents in Madeira developed.

After this kind of “colonial tourism” there was a shift to “therapeutic tourism” in the 19th century. Madeira was advertised as health resort whose climate was thought to have positive effects on pulmonic diseases. Britons arrived first, then also people from other nationalities, mainly members of the wealthy European aristocracy. While at the beginning most thought of this island essentially as a therapeutic port, this changed soon. More and more people visited Madeira because of the beautiful scenery and/or in order to spend the winter here.

For a long time, Madeira relied on elite tourism. Until the 1970s, there was a high number of four and five star resorts but few others. From the 1980s, the infrastructure of lower-priced lodging was improved. Today, the island is a highly popular tourist destination with roughly eight million overnight stays by visitors (2019). It is also a favored port on the Atlantic cruising routes. Cruise ships are docked at Funchal’s port every day of the week.

Most visitors come from the United Kingdom, Germany and France.

When is the best time to visit Madeira?

Actually, there is no bad time for visiting the subtropical island of Madeira. The weather is mild all year round, with summer highs of 24°C (75°F) and lows of 17°C (63°F). Winter temperatures are 4°C (39°F) lower. In summer, they may climb up to 30° (86°F), especially in Funchal. Then it might get hot and stuffy in Madeira’s capital, so locals escape to the mountains. Also some waterfalls might dry up in this time. In winter, there is more rain. It may also snow at that time at high altitudes. And you might need a sweater or windbreaker there in summer, as well.

Water temperatures are similar to the air temperatures. From July on, there are pleasant temperatures of 20°C (68°F) to 22°C (72°). And this is until October and sometimes longer. You might even be able to swim in the ocean in December and January.

You have to be aware of the fact that Madeira is not your typical beach vacation destination. This is due – as I mentioned above – to the lack of sandy beaches but also to the weather. In contrast to the stable temperatures, it is capricious. You have to know that there is a clear separating line between the island’s north and south. Bad weather mostly comes from the north, often rain clouds get stuck here. And it rains much more here than in the south. Quite often, you can experience the island interiors and the north only in the morning without rain gear. And weather changes occur fast.

Best travel times to visit Madeira are either spring – when plants are in full bloom – or fall – when it is still possible to swim in the ocean. Yet summer might also be favorable if you do not mind possible heat and humidity (in Funchal).

How do you get to Madeira?

Many European airports have direct flights to Madeira Airport (FNC), which is also known as Cristiano Ronaldo Madeira International Airport. If you wonder about this name, Cristiano Ronaldo is Madeira’s most famous citizen, a very known football/soccer player. The flight time to Madeira is about four hours from a great number of European countries.

From Switzerland for example, Edelweiss offers up to three direct flights from Zurich to Madeira, with a flight time of four hours.

As from November of last year, Madeira launched its first-ever nonstop flight to Funchal from New York City’s John F. Kennedy Airport. And this with SATA Azores Airlines in partnership with Inovtravel, a Portuguese tour operator. The flight time is about eight hours. As far as I know, this connection only takes place in the winter half year.

What kind of activities are possible in Madeira?

I already mentioned that lounging poolside

and oceanside

is possible yet should not be the only reason to visit Madeira (it is no typical beach destination and weather may be capricious). However, it is the ideal place if are into active travel.

The range of possible things to do is wide. One of the most favorite activities is walking/hiking.

There is a unique network of narrow irrigation channels known as levadas at your disposal. They were originally dug to transport water from the rainy north to the dryer south. They are still in use, and their banks also serve as pathways for walkers/hikers. The levadas cover almost the whole island. You even find an urban one in Funchal!

Higher up in the mountains you also find marked trails. You can even climb up to the top of Madeira’s highest mountain, the Pico Ruivo at an altitude of 1,862 m (6,108 ft).

Another recommended trail is a walk/hike on the desert like peninsula in Madeira’s uttermost east.

Apart from walking/hiking there is much more to do: trail running, mountain biking, paragliding, surfing, deep-sea fishing, mountaineering, canyoning, dolphins- and whale watching as well as scuba diving. As to the latter, there is a diverse variety of sea life to watch, including the brown moray eel, giant anemone, Atlantic trumpetfish, yellow barracuda, flaming reef lobsters and zebra sea bream. 

And of course, there are numerous sights not to be missed. I will not go into details here, only to name a few in Funchal and nearby: several botanical gardens, historic old town of Funchal,

coastal fishing village of Cāmara De Lobos;

Cabo Girāo Skywalk, Europe’s highest cliff skywalk,

and so one.

How to get around in Madeira?

Madeira’s road network resembles that of my home country, Switzerland. There are lots of tunnels and elevated highways, which allow rapid travel through peaks. This well–developed road network is a consequence of Portugal’s joining the European Community. In such a way, Madeira got access to correspondent development funds. Having said that, there are still small, steep and curvy roads once you come to the mountains.

The best way to get around is by rental car. I recommend opting for a smaller car. And this is because there are still many mountains roads criss-crossing the island. You will not be able to avoid them if you are on your way to certain trailheads.

The bus network is quite dense, especially around Funchal. You can reach a number of sights by bus. However, be aware of the fact that you will not be able to get to all the interesting spots on the island in this manner.

Are there any other interesting facts about Madeira?

First, the island of Madeira is famous for its Madeira wines, which are liqueur resp. fortified wines. They have an alcohol content of 17 to 22% by volume. You drink them not with food – they are not dinner wines – , but either as aperitif or dessert wines. As to their making, wines are heated first before they are carefully cooled down again. Then you let them mature for at least 18 months.

Second, there are numerous celebrations that take place here, for instance flower, organ, philharmonic and – of course – wine festivals. If you are interested in attending a specific one, check out Madeira’s festival calendar.

At last, some lines to the food you encounter in this autonomous Portuguese region. The cuisine here is healthy and rich. Typical dishes are bife de atum com milho frito (tuna with fried corn), filete de espada (scabbard fish),

espetada (meat skewers), pudim de maracuja (passionfruit pudding) or lapas (limpets).

Other staples are bolo de caco (circular flatbread), bolo de mel (sugarcane honey cake)

or broas de mel (molasses cookies).

And if you want to try the local drink, then you have to ask for a poncha. It is made with aguardente de cana (distilled alcohol made from sugar cane juice), honey, sugar and fruit juices (orange, lemon or other).

What is next on my blog about Madeira?

In case this information has made you more curious about this island, you might also be interested in where to stay on a possible visit to Madeira. This will be the topic of my next blogpost. I will start with a brief glance at the beginning of the island’s hotel industry before going into Madeira’s current luxury hotel landscape. A closer look at two high-end accommodations where I stayed on my recent stay will follow (Reid’s Palace and Les Suites at The Cliff Bay).

And to end my mini series about this island, I will give advice where to go for dining in style when visiting Madeira, either at hotel restaurants or outside.

Pin it for later

The post Madeira, the flower island in the North Atlantic off Africa’s coast first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Travel guide to Madeira, the flower island in the North Atlantic off Africa’s coast appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

The French Riviera or the Côte d’Azur – as it is also called – is the Mediterranean coastline in France’s southeast corner. This “Azure Coast” has been one of the country’s most popular travel destinations, and this since the late 1800s. The stretch of land extending from Saint-Tropez in the west to the France-Italy border in the east is known as the playground for the rich and famous. While you usually come here for the beaches, it is also possible to do walks in the area. While there are also such ones on the French Riviera coast, there are more options in the hilly hinterland. You can even combine walking and exploring as there are lots of picturesque towns in the Côte d’Azur hills. Here are two top walks in the French Riviera that are worth doing – and quite easy at the same time.

Before diving into this subject, a few more lines about the French Riviera and the exact area that I checked out as to walking opportunities.

About the French Riviera resp. Côte d’Azur

I already mentioned that the area between Saint-Tropez and the France-Italy border is called French Riviera resp. Côte d’Azur. But you have to know that there is no official boundary on the west side. Some say it is Saint-Tropez, others claim that it goes further west to Le Lavandou or even to Toulon. Be it as it may, it is for sure a beautiful coast.

Tourism started early here. Britons came here already at the end of the 18th century. Not much time later, the Russians joined them. Then, in the first half of the 1900s, the French Riviera developed to a magnet for artists and writers. And finally, since the second half of the 20th century, it has become a popular seaside destination attracting French people from the north yet also tourists from all over the world. With its popularity, prices for staying and dining have climbed to dizzying heights, especially during summer. And getting around in this time has become a nightmare.

Notwithstanding the above facts, it is still a worthwhile destination to go, but avoid traveling here in July and August. The area is much too busy in summer time. And go inland every now and then. It is worth this effort. If you like walking, all the better. This allows you to avoid the crowds.

Now to the exact part where you find these two top walks in the French Riviera my husband and I did. On our recent north Italy/south France trip, we stayed two days in the region, and this in Vence near Nice resp. Antibes. Therefore, we picked out one walk in Vence

and one on the nearby Cap d’Antibes, on the water’s edge.

About Vence, near Nice & Antibes, & surroundings

Vence is a historic town in the French Riviera hills and belongs to the Métropole Nice Côte d’Azur. You reach this pretty medieval walled commune in half an hour by car from either Nice or Antibes. Alternatively, you get here by train and bus from these two cities, changing in Cagnes-sur-Mer.

As to Cap d’Antibes, you probably find more millionaires here than elsewhere on the French Riviera. It really is a wonderful spot and at the same time relatively close to Nice and Cannes. There are lots of beautiful properties on site, most of them behind fences. In terms of beaches, you are not spoilt for choice, due to the rocky coast.

Two top walks around Vence and Antibes

While the first walk starts in Vence itself, the other is near Antibes, the oldest town on the Côte d’Azur. The tour in Vence  brings you to the area’s tourist hotspot, the small village of Saint-Paul-de-Vence.

The other trail involves a ten-minute drive from Antibes. Precisely, you have to head to Cap d’Antibes, to Plage de la Garoupe.

1. Vence to Saint-Paul-de Vence (easy to medium walk)

Vence – Saint-Paul-de-Vence – Vence

Duration: 2 hours / Ascent: 201 m/660 ft. / Lenght: 5.8 km/3.6 mi, inspired by Outdooractive

This tour is a great way to explore two lovely towns, Vence

on the one hand and Saint-Paul-de-Vence on the other hand. Both of them go back to the Middle Ages and still have their fortress walls. While the former is a pleasant small town, not especially geared to travelers, the latter is a popular tourist destination. The village of Saint-Paul-de-Vence

is smaller than Vence and seems to consist almost only of galleries, souvenir shops and restaurants.

Before you start your walk, have a look around the medieval walled center of Vence. Afterwards, head to the Place du Maréchal Juin to access to the trailhead. It leads first through inhabited area, before you come to a forest. After crossing Le Malvan creek, go straight ahead. Take the first turn to the left and walk until you reach a paved road. Turn into it and follow it to the next crossing. Turn left and just afterwards take the path on your right side that leads parallel to the paved route to Saint-Paul-de-Vence.

Either go on until you reach this popular village or make a short detour to the Fondation Maeght

first. This is a private museum of modern art. A visit is well worth for lovers of 20th-century arts

and modern architecture (building). The path going to Saint-Paul-de-Vence ends at the Chapelle Sainte-Claire.

From here, you are steps away from the stunning  yet somewhat over-touristed village.

After having a look around, go back the same way to Vence or take an alternative route as my husband and I did. When returning, pass the Chapelle Sainte-Claire and walk along the Route de Vence until a path turns right. After some time, it leads along the Malvan creek. At this point, you have two possibilities. Either go the path all the way along the creek until you turn into the trail described before (to Saint-Paul-de-Vence). Alternatively, turn right, crossing a bridge,

as we did. This brings you to the Ancien Chemin de Saint-Paul. Make your way back to Vence’s town center (Chemin de la Pouiraque – Route de Cagnes – Chemin du Camp – Avenue du Colonel Meyere).

2. Le Sentier du Littoral on the Cap d’Antibes (easy walk)

Plage de la Garoupe (Cap d’Antibes) – Bay of Antibes Billionaires – Plage de la Garoupe (Cap d’Antibes)

Duration: 1 ½ hours / Ascent: 61 m/200 ft. / Length: 4.7 km/2.9 mi, inspired by Outdooractive

The starting point is Plage de la Garoupe, one of the few beaches in the area. There is a large parking lot where you can leave your car. When reaching the water front, turn right. Pass the beach club and turn left into the Sentier du Littoral Tirepoil.

From here, you always walk along the rugged coast, which is beautiful with great views of the Mediterranean. But be prepared, you will be not on you own as the path is popular.

Follow the trail to its very end, where you find the splendide Bay of Antibes Billionaires.

If you have some time left, visit Villa Eilen Roc – we sadly had to give it a pass. To return to the start, walk along Avenue Mrs Beaumont. When you reach Avenue de la Tour Gandolphe to your right, take it and walk until the next crossing. Here turn into Anvenue André Sella to reach Plage de la Garoupe again. From the point where you leave the trail you cross a very rich neighborhood, although most of it is befind fences. Therefore, there is not much to see. If you do the trail on a not so busy time (the path is narrow), I would consider returning along the coast again.

Looking back and forward

On our 11-day trip through northern Italy and south of France we had two stays in Piedmont, one in this region’s north near Switzerland (hotel/activities) and one near Alba in the Langhe wine area (hotel/activities). After that, we headed to Liguria on the Italian Riviera (hotel/activities) before crossing the border to France. Here we had two stops, one in the French Riviera hills (hotel/2 walks) and the other in the Provence. On our way back to Switzerland we made one more halt south of Lyon. Wherever we went, we wanted to stay and dine in style. That means we chose luxury hotels and Michelin fine dining as long as they offered value for money.

Next on my blog, you will learn about a premium hotel in the Provence (in Paradou) and a walk my husband and I did from here to Les Baux-de-Provence, one of the most visited villages in the area.

Date of visit: September 2021

Pin it for later

The post 2 top walks in the French Riviera first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post 2 top walks in the French Riviera appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Liguria is one of the smallest regions in Italy, with its capital in Genoa. It is a narrow strip of land on one of the northernmost points of the Mediterranean Sea, the Ligurian Sea. Most visitors to Liguria head to the east of Genoa. Here they go to the famous Cinque Terre or to posh Portofino. The coast west of Genoa, however, is a bit forgotten by international travel. This is a pity, because it has a lot to offer, especially around the quiet seaside resort of Alassio. There are not only long sandy beaches but also many quaint towns and walking opportunities. Find below what to do around Alassio as active traveler, but not before some more details to Liguria in general.

About Liguria – mountains and sea

As stated, Liguria is a coastal area, called Ligurian Sea or Italian Riviera. It is in the northwest of Italy, bordered by France to the west, Piedmont in the north and two other Italien regions to the east. Its capital Genoa splits Liguria in two parts. On the one hand, there is the well-traveled eastern side, called Riviera di Levante. It is known for its Cinque Terre.

On the other hand, you find Riviera di Ponente in the other direction towards the French border. This area is significantly lesser visited by international travelers.

The seafront resort of Alassio is located about half way between Genoa and the French border. It is part of the Riviera delle Palme, stretching all the way from Laigueglia, Alassio’s neighboring village to Varazze, just west of Genoa.

Alassio has not only beautiful sandy beaches but also a considerable number of elegant historic villas. They were built in the late 1800s by rich English people wintering in the area. One of them is Villa della Pergola, nowadays a luxury hotel with gourmet restaurant, that my husband and I chose for our stay here (see my post).

For some more information on Alassio, please refer to this post, too (about the seafront resort of Alassio).

Coming from Piedmont and heading towards Alassio, there is the mountain range of the Ligurian Alps to cross. Once arrived by the sea and driving along the coastal road, you cannot help but getting the impression that the hills begin shortly after the beach ends. Mountains and sea are really close together in this part of the Italien Riviera, what makes the charm of it.

What to do around Alassio as active traveler

This is about walks you can take right from Alassio and about nearby towns resp. villages that are worth a visit.

1. Two great and easy walks between mountains and sea

Around Alassio there is quite a number of walking resp. hiking opportunities. If you head inland from this seaside resort you are in the mountains in no time. However, the hikes here usually do not go through as easy ones as the terrain is rather steep. Therefore, my husband opted for two walks by the sea. Actually, you can even combine them as they both start in the town center and go in either direction along the Ligurian Sea. Whereas the first one goes northeast and leaves the boardwalk after a short while, the second leads southwest and is by the water all the time.

1.1. Ancient Roman route from Alassio to Albenga (easy walk)

Alassio – Via Julia Augusta – Albenga – back to Alassio by train

Duration: 1 ¾ h / length: ca. 7.2 km/4.5 mi /Ascent: ca. 100 m/330 ft / inspired by Outdooractive trail

Coming from Alassio’s train station go towards the sea but not before having a look at the nearby Muretto di Alassio.

This is a low wall covered with more than 550 ceramic plaques of celebrities’ signatures. Ernest Hemingway started it with the cafe’s owner back in 1953.

Go on until you reach Alassio’s shopping street, Via XX September, also called Budello,

and follow it northeast. It ends a short time later where a board walk along the beach starts. Take it, past a tower (Torrione della Coscia)

before you leave it at Via Piave to cross Via F.M. Giancardi to reach Strada Romana Santa Croce.

Walk along this street, always uphill, until you come to Chiesa Santa Croce. From here you have an amazing view of Alassio and its surroundings.

And there is also the start of Via Julia Augusta.

After passing a stone archway, you come to the ancient Roman route that is always parallel to the sea. It is flat and with many wonderful views of the Ligurian Sea and the Gallinara island.

You also find Roman archaeological sites along the way. With Albenga coming closer and closer, the path finally descends to this town. Once arrived here, cross the Centa river and have a look around the beautiful old town

before going to the train station. Take a train back to Alassio (every half to full hour), which takes six or seven minutes.

1.2. Mediterranean passageway between Alassio and Laigueglia (easy walk)

Alassio – Laigueglia – Alassio

Duration: 1 ½ h (one way ¾ h) / length: 6.6 km/4.1 mi / Ascent: none / inspired by Outdooractive trail

Just like the first walk, start from Alassio’s train station, head to the sea and make a short stop at the nearby Muretto di Alassio (see above). When you reach Via XX September, go in the southwest direction to its very end. Not long and you are directly by the water where you find a passageway that leads to Laigueglia.

At a quieter pace, slowly the hotels, the snack bars and the commercial beaches slip away.

Just for a short while, you are in some sort of no mans  land that seems neither to belong to Alassio or Laigueglia. Not before long, the outline of the latter comes into sight. If you want to enjoy the views, there are lots of benches along the way for a rest.

Once arrived in Laigueglia, budget some time to walk through this jewel of a village.

It is on the list of the most beautiful villages in Italy (“I Borghi più belli d’Italia”). Then you either walk back – as my husband and I did – or take the bus (trains are less frequent) to return to Alassio. Buy a ticket for this ride at a bar or tabac.

2. Two of the most beautiful villages in Italy

If you have done the second walk I proposed above, then you already know one of the most beautiful villages in Italy, Laigueglia! But first things first, there is list of villages in Italy that are considered beautiful. And this in the sense of the concept “Made in Italy” as an expression of Italian excellence. It is called “I Borghi più belli d’Italia”. A “Borgo” (singular) means village, but it is more than that. It is an intriguing small Italian town that is usually fortified and dates to ancient times (Middle Age to Renaissance). Generally, there is a castle or another noble building that is circled by other houses.  And often the village is surrounded by defensive walls and towers. There is a broad-based organization behind this list, as it seems.

In Liguria there are 24 villages that made it on the list at this point of time. On our recent stay here, my husband and I visited two of them, Laigueglia and Zuccarello.

If you want to see more of these beautiful villages, there are quite a few near Alassio. Castelvecchio di Rocca Barbena is just adjacent to Zuccarello (drive 7 minutes more). If you head west from Alassio, Cervo is close by (14 minutes). If you go in the other direction, Finalborgo is not far (26 minutes). If you drive 13 minutes further, you come to another one, Noli.

2.1. Laigueglia

Laigueglia is just a short walk from Alassio (¾ hour) or you can go by car (4 minutes), train (minutes) or bus (8 minutes). It retains the charm of an old fishing village, which has become rare in other coastal places in Liguria. It is an idyllic spot with its small alleys, squares overlooking the sea and brightly colored fisherman houses. And Chiesa di San Matteo with its two bell towers, topped by colorful majolica domes, make the whole scene picture perfect. In addition, there is a gently sloping sandy beach, too.

As a side note, when walking along the beautiful seaside promenade, we caught side of the historic Windsor Hotel that is currently under renovation. It will open as luxury hotel at the beginning of 2022. So let us keep an eye on this one.

2.2. Zuccarello

Zuccarello is a mountain village that you can reach in a 21-minute-drive from Alassio. Going there by bus is not a viable option (it takes too much time). The small place in the Neva valley runs along a single lane flanked by arcades.

Noteworthy here are the carruggi, the typical Ligurian alleys.

Then there is the Roman bridge and the castle towering high above the village.

In case you should be interested in taking a walk here, there is one that sounds promising (we did not do it). This is about the Sentiero di Ilaria. It connects Zuccarello with Castelvecchio di Rocca Barbena, also on the list of Italy’s most beautiful villages. You need about three hours for the way there and back, the elevation gain is 329 m/1,080 ft.

3. Two towns with historic centers worth seeing

In terms of what do around Alassio there is more than “just” visiting beautiful villages. There are also bigger towns worth exploring on the Ligurian coast west of Genoa. My husband and I went to two, Albenga and Ventimiglia. It was not that my husband and I had planned to visit them, it was more of a coincidence.

As to Albenga, we happened to come here when doing the first walk I have proposed (walking the ancient Roman route from Alassio).

Ventimiglia was on our route when heading from Alassio to our next destination, the south of France. Both are not really tourist hotspots but rather working towns. However, they are both worth spending a few hours exploring their old towns.

3.1. Albenga

The mid-sized town (about 25,000 inhabitants) is especially wort visiting because of its well-preserved historic center. You find here numerous medieval towers plus an intact baptistry from the Roman Empire.

And it is a great place to just stroll around and take in the atmosphere of a “normal” town not geared to tourism.

3.2. Ventimiglia

Ventimiglia is another town of medium size. And it is just across the border from the French Riviera. We are here on the Riviera dei Fiori, an area I have not mentioned yet. It is named after its flower-growing industry and stretches from Andora to the French border. The Roya river divides this town into two parts, the old town on one side, the new one on the other. A great thing to do here is exploring the historical center, called Ventimiglia Alta, due to its position on a hill. My husband and just took the first small alley coming from the Rotondo degli Scoglietti (just after the bridge), which went up the hill.

And we immediately immersed in one of the most authentic medieval towns we have ever experienced.

If you have more time to spend here, a must-see activity seems to be the Hanbury Botanical Gardens (we were not here). It was built in the 1800s and has 18 hectares of Mediterranean and exotic plants.

Looking back and forward

The present blogpost about what to do around Alassio on the Ligurian coast west of Genoa is the last of several ones about three places my husband and I visited in north Italy on a recent trip. Our first stop was Lake Orta in northern Piedmont where I did posts about a luxury hotel and what to do here. The same followed for another stay in Piedmont, this time east of Alba (accommodation/activities). Finally, I wrote about an upmarket hotel in Alassio (my post).

In the time to come you will learn about two hotels we went to in the nearby south of France, one a high-end lodging (hotel), the other a midscale to upscale one (hotel & 2 walks). And I will go into (walking) activities, too. Finally, I will let you know about staying and dining in style at a two-star Michelin establishment south of Lyon.

Date of visit: September 2021

Pin it for later

The post 3 top things to do around Alassio on the Italian Riviera first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post 3 top things to do around Alassio on the Italian Riviera appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Piedmont is one of Italy’s 20 regions, with its capital in Turin. It sits in the foothills of the Alps in the country’s north and is mainly known for its excellent wines. The prime wine-growing area here is the Langhe region with world-famous wines just as Barolo and Barbaresco. This region around Alba, Piedmont’s truffle capital, is great for activities of all sort. Think of vineyard walks, truffle hunting and visiting some of Italy’s most beautiful villages. Find in the following three top things to do in Piedmont’s Langhe region, most of them include walking.

Before going into what to do here as active traveler, some lines about Piedmont and its most important wine region, the Langhe.

About Piedmont

As pointed out already, we are here in Italy’s north. Precisely, it is the country’s northwestern part that borders Switzerland and France.

The core of Piedmont is the Po river valley, where also Turin, the region’s capital, is located.

It is a beautiful city that does not get the attention by travelers it deserves. If you wonder what to do in the Piedmontese metropolis, here is my guide for three-night stay. In case you are a fine food lover, have a look at my post about culinary delights in Turin, too.

In Piedmont’s north you find the Lake District with a number of beautiful lakes. The most popular ones are Lake Garda, Lake Como or Lake Maggiore. One of the lesser known is Lake Orta,

you can even speak of a hidden gem in this context. Find here my post about what to do here. In case you should look for a place to stay in style, Villa Crespi in Orta San Giulio

is a great choice. Here is my blogpost about it.

The hills south of the Po river are noted for the production of some of Italy’s highest-quality wines. The area is every bit as picturesque as the better known Tuscany. You find even more hills here and there are lots of beautiful villages. But, this region offers far more than just world-famous wines. In some parts, the best hazelnuts, the “Nocciola del Piemonte” are grown. They produce cheese in the area, and of course there is the fabled Alba white truffle.

Piedmont’s most important wine region is the Langhe. Next are some details about this wine-growing area.

About the Langhe wine region

The historic vineyard landscape of Langhe was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2014, together with Roero and Monferrato. The Langhe is situated south of the Tanaro river, in Piedmont’s southeast. The word “Langhe” means long, low-lying hills, and this suits well! It is an uninterrupted system of hills with the best grapevines and wines. Think of names just as Barolo, Barbaresco, Barbera or Moscato.

Apart from vineyards, where there are lots of rewarding walks (I will point out two of them later on), there is much more. On the one hand, you find here lots of idyllic villages. Some are even on the list of the most beautiful villages in Italy (“I Borghi più belli d’Italia”); I will go into two of them. On the other hand, the region is famous for its truffles, be it the black or the rarer (and more expensive) white ones. A fun thing to do here is truffle hunting.

More details follow.

If you are interested in staying and dining in style in the area, I have a tip for you. This is about Relais San Maurizio,

a luxury hotel, and the one-star Michelin restaurant on site, Guido da Costigliole. Here is my post about it.

What to do in Piedmont’s Langhe region as active traveler

As announced, it is about vineyard walks, visiting picturesque villages and going on a truffle hunt. These were all things that my husband and I did on our recent visit to the Langhe region.

1. 2 great & easy vineyard walks in the Langhe region

I truly believe that you can only immerse yourself in a place if you walk it. Therefore, I am always on the lookout for walks everywhere I go. This was not any different in Piedmont. This despite the fact that I have rather bad memories of a walk I wanted to do with my husband and friends many years ago in the area. We had to cancel it because we were threatened by dogs again and again. But times changed, and leisure walking has become more common lately. This time, we only had one encounter with dogs, and that was harmless. Nevertheless, we moved away from our original plan to do a seemingly little used trail.

But now to the two great walks we made in the Langhe region, which were both pure immersion into vines. And they were close to our hotel, Relais San Maurizio, in Santo Stefano Belbo (my post about it), half an hour by car east of Alba.

1.1. Vineyard walk Neive to Barbaresco & back (easy walk)

Neive – Barbaresco – Neive

Duration: 2 hours / Ascent: ca. 215 m/705 ft. / inspired by Outdooractive trail

The start is in Neive

(15 min east of Alba by car), one of most beautiful villages in Italy (“I Borghi più belli d’Italia”). Therefore, do not miss exploring this village before or after your walk! You leave the village at Cappella di San Rocco, south of the village, where you walk down the paved road until you reach a roundabout. Here you find a sign posting to the hiking trail to Barbaresco. Make sure to leave the paved road and walk along the vineyards until there is a smaller paved road that turns right (there is a signpost, too).

At the second farm you leave the paved road and turn into a dirt road. You cross a railway bridge and walk down the hill until you come to a forest, where the trees are planted in a checkerboard pattern. If you wonder about this as I did, I learned later on that is because of the truffles. They seem to like it! Anyway, the trail ascends from here. Maybe you want to make a short rest at the designated place, as my husband and I did. 

After a short ascent you come to Strada Montestefano, which brings you to the wine village of Barbaresco

(after about an hour). Have a look around here, maybe visit a vinery. However, if you want to pay a visit to the famous Gaja vinery,

there is a special procedure. You have to make a donation of at least 300 € per person to a specially chosen charity beforehand. Then you get a personalized tour of vineyards and cellars followed by a wine tasting.

When you have finished touring Barbaresco, go back the same way. Alternatively, you might walk further to Alba, which will take you about two and a half hours more.

1.2. Vineyard walk around Castiglione Tinella (easy & short walk)

Circular trail around Castiglione Tinella

Duration: 1 hour / Ascent: 95 m/312 ft. / inspired by Outdooractive trail

We are here in der Langa del Moscato. This is the wine region where the vines grow for the sweet, fizzy white or rosé Moscato. It is made from the Muscat grape and it has a low alcohol content that pairs perfectly with desserts.

Castiglione Tinella (30 min east of Alba by car) might be not on the regular Piedmont tourist routes. Yet, the small village, climbing up the Langhe hills, is a pleasant starting and end point for a nice short walk through the vineyards. The imposing church

next to the parking lot, where we left our car, seems much too big in relation to the small village.

After strolling through the streets of Castiglione Tinella you turn into the country road (Strada Provinciale). A short time later you leave it again by taking a descending road to you right. At the beginning it is paved and then becomes a dirt road. When reaching a big walnut tree you turn right and from then on you are in the vineyards all the time. Pay attention to the red signposts (there are others too) and follow them through the vines.

At one time, you have to cross a paved road to reach the Strada Provinciale. After a short stretch on it, you leave it again. Make a sharp right turn to the right and go downhill (back to the village). Then it goes on through the vineyards again, always along the Strada Provinciale.

When you reach a cemetery, you take the Strada Provinciale until the next crossing where you go left. At the next curve you turn right into a dirt road that brings you, slightly uphill, back to village.

2. 2 of the most beautiful villages in Italy

If you have done the first walk I proposed above, then you already know one of the most beautiful villages in Italy, Neive! But first things first, there is list of villages in Italy that are considered beautiful. And this in the sense of the concept “Made in Italy” as an expression of Italian excellence. It is called “I Borghi più belli d’Italia”. A “Borgo” (singular) means village, but it is more than that. It is an intriguing small Italian town that is usually fortified and dates back to ancient times (Middle Age to Renaissance). Generally, there is a castle or another noble building that is circled by other houses. And often the village is surrounded by defensive walls and towers. There is a broad-based organization behind this list, as it seems.

In Piedmont (Piemonte) there are 15 villages that made it on the list at this point of time. On our recent stay here, my husband and I visited two of them, Neive and Monforte d’Alba.

2.1. Neive

As already mentioned, Neive

is located near Alba (15 min bei car, towards east). The name of this village derives from a noble Roman family who owned the place in earlier times. It is perched on the top of a hill and boasts a medieval center, made of narrow cobbled streets that climb toward the clock tower.

The best thing to do in Neive is to walk from the south gate (San Rocco) to the one in the north (San Sebastiano).

In such a way, you cross the whole village passing its charming heart, Piazza Italia,

with the old municipal palace (Palazzo Borghese).

Do not miss walking up to Neive’s highest point, the clock tower (Torre Comunale).

Directly opposite you find a viewpoint from which you can enjoy the village’s stunning surroundings, the rolling hills full of vineyards.

2.2. Monforte d’Alba

Monforte d’Alba is situated 30 minutes south of Alba by car. When I learned that this place that I knew from an earlier stay (at Hotel Giardino da Felicin)

is on the list of the country’s most beautiful villages, I wanted to pay it a visit again. At the time we did not have much time to explore it. I think we even missed the most important thing here, walking up from the main piazza (Umberto I)

to the highest point, the Piazza Antica Chiesa. While doing so, you encounter lots of picturesque narrow lanes and colorful old buildings.

The origins of Monforte d’Alba go back to Roman times. Its name means strong, strategic point, which it has been for centuries. The village’s heart is the residence of the Scarampi Marquises, next to the mentioned highest point, the Piazza Antica Chiesa. It stand on the ruins of an ancient castle. Furthermore, there are other sites: a natural amphitheater (Horszowski Auditorium), a bell tower

and an old church.

To end this post about activities in Piedmont’s Langhe region, here is a fun thing to do, going on a truffle hunt.

3. Truffle hunting in the Langhe

There are different kinds of truffle you can find in the area. From January to April it is the black winter truffle, from May to November the black summer truffle.

And if you are keen on the rarer white truffle, it is available from mid September to January. An interesting detail is that you are not allowed to sell white truffles before the end of September. This is in order to guarantee its quality.

Just a few more words to the difference between black and white truffles in terms of smell and taste. Whereas the white truffle smells more intensive, the black one is subtler in this regard. However, the black truffle’s taste is more aromatic than it is the case with the white one. One says that that it tastes more complex.

My husband and I did a truffle hunt end of August, and therefore we were looking for the black summer truffle. All the same, we were told by “our truffle hunter” that he already had found the one or other white one. This activity was part of a Gourmet Escape Package that we had booked at our hotel, Relais San Maurizio. So, I cannot comment on the pricing as I had not booked it myself. Find in the following how it proceeded.

3.1. Truffle hunt with El Valet Tartufaia

Here my verdict right away if you do not want the details, it was a great experience – informative, exciting, personal and a gourmet treat!

We were picked up by car at our hotel by the truffle hunter’s son.

While he was driving us to his father’s estate in Canelli, about 20 minutes away, he told us that it is a family business. His father does the dog training and the actual truffle hunting, his mother is responsible for the culinary aspects and he himself does the marketing and the client handling.

Once arrived at the farm,

he introduced his father and the truffle dog. The father is a very kind, elder man. The “dog of the day” was a younger, not so experienced one.

The other dogs were in a dog pound. We heard them barking when we passed them later on. And off we went, first trough some kind of meadow with the ones or other trees, later on in a forest. The father does not speak any English, but as my husband knows Italian, the communication was no problem. And the son went with us in order to let us know the essentials.

We learned a lot about truffle hunting, I cannot go into details. Only so much, I wrongly thought that the dog must dig deep and long in the ground, but that is different. Everything goes very quickly; a bit of short digging and the truffle is in the dog’s mouth.

The most demanding task is now that the dog gives the truffle away – because he would rather eat it himself.

We found three small black summer truffles – if I remember correctly – and every time it worked out well!

After the hunting the son asked us to have a seat on the outdoor terrace where we were treated with local – and partly home made – treats. And of course he also shaved some of the truffles we had found over the fresh cheese. It was delicious!

Looking back and forward

My husband and I did the activities mentioned above on our recent 11-day trip through northern Italy and southern France (our itinerary). So far I have already reported about our stay at the luxury hotel and two-star Michelin restaurant Villa Crespi in Piedmont’s north and about things to do in the area (Lago d’Orta).

And if you want to know how it is staying and dining at our hotel in Piedmont’s Langhe region, here are the details (luxury hotel and one-star restaurant Relais San Maurizio). More about activities in the region you can find here.

Next was a stop at the Ligurian coast in Alassio (hotel/activities)

west of Genua before heading to the south of France. Here we stayed at two spots (French Riviera hills – hotel, what to do – and Provence) before returning to Switzerland via a stopover south of Lyon.

Date of visit: August 2021

Pin it for later

The post 3 top things to do in Piedmont’s Langhe region, Italy (that include walking) first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post 3 top things to do in Piedmont’s Langhe region, Italy (that include walking) appeared first on Swiss Traveler.