Is Bhutan on your bucket list for your next vacations? Then I have not only lots of travel information about the Land of the Thunder Dragon for you (see next section), but also suggestions where to go for a pre- or post-Bhutan stay in style. Doing so is for all those a necessity who come from a distant country of origin. When my husband and I went to Bhutan recently, we flew via Bangkok. Thus, we opted for staying in Bangkok before flying to our final destination. On our return to Bangkok, we drove on to Hua Hin, a seaside resort south of the capital, for a few quiet days on the beach.

After a short look at my Bhutan mini series, you will find more details from which cities you can get to Bhutan (Bangkok is not the only option). Plus, there will be some advice where to stay at great luxury hotels in those places. Then I come to the actual topic, my pre- and post-Bhutan stays in Thailand.

My mini series about Bhutan

As announced, there is more content on my blog about visiting Bhutan. I started with a travel guide, continued with a perfect 9-day itinerary and informed about touring the country by arrangements of the three luxury hotel brands operating here. As we had opted for COMO as a provider – alternatives are Aman or Six Senses – , you learn in a further post how it was. And just now, I am setting the end point of my Bhutan mini-series, detailing opportunities for ideal pre and post travel plans.

From where to fly to Bhutan?

As mentioned above, you can fly to Bhutan via Thailand. When my husband and I did this at the beginning of April, there were no direct flights from Bangkok. Instead, the plane made a short stop in Dhaka/Bangladesh – where you could stay on board. At the time, you could only fly to Bhutan once a day, and this starting at 5 am and landing in Paro/Bhutan at 08.30 am. The flight was carried out by Drukair, one of two airlines flying to the Land of the Thunder Dragon.

Alternatively, you may fly into Paro from India. When doing so, you may choose between Delhi, Kolkata, Guwahati and Bagdogra. As I can safely assume that the first one is your best choice as a Westerner, here are suggestions as to where to stay in Delhi. And when you are in the area, do not miss a side trip to Agra/Taj Mahal. This is such a worthwhile thing to do!

Another option is it to fly via Singapore. Here is advice which hotel to choose here as a discerning traveler. Finally, you may fly to Bhutan via Kathmandu/Nepal (where I have not been to).

Pre- & post-Bhutan stays in Thailand

As my husband and I have never visited Thailand before, we appreciated the chance to get to know this destination a bit more. We settled for three nights in Bangkok and four nights in Hua Hin, a beach town in Bangkok’s south. While this may sound of quite long stays for stopovers, it actually was not. This because of two reasons. First, we had to leave our hotel in Bangkok at 2 am in the morning of our third night to catch our flight to Bhutan. Second, after returning to Bangkok from Bhutan, we only arrived at our hotel in Hua Hin at 9 pm.

While Bangkok was given as pre-Bhutan stay from the outset,

we thought longer about our post-Bhutan one. We contemplated flying to Kos Samui (flight time 1 h 05 min) or Phuket (flight time 1 h 20 min), Thailand’s most popular vacation destinations. Yet, we were daunted by the thought of more flights. As to upscale beach towns not too far away from Bangkok, there is not much around. Pattaya Beach, the city of sins (2 h by car), was not really an option for us. So, we decided to give Hua Hin (3-4 h by car) a try.

A pre-Bhutan stay in Bangkok

We had heard much about Bangkok, the good and the not so good. Yet, we were positively surprised about its vibe. Of course, it is a modern city nowadays, with lots of skyscrapers and traffic. Yet, if you search hard enough, you find some glimpses of the “old” Bangkok too. While traffic is bad at many times, the drivers are usually well behaved. And yes, at the beginning of April, we had already missed the best travel time for Bangkok (November to February).

When it comes to staying in style in Bangkok, there is an immense number of options. I have not really looked into it as our hotel was fixed from the beginning. Only so much, if I were free to choose I would opt for a luxury hotel by the river

not far away from the Grand Palace and Wat Arun (maybe Mandarin Oriental, Four Seasons or Capella). In our case, we made use of a special combination offer by COMO Hotels and Resorts (our choice for Bhutan lodging). Actually, we had two nights free at their Bangkok branch, COMO Metropolitan. And here is how it was.

Hotel COMO Metropolitan Bangkok

As I outlined above, booking COMO Bhutan for your touring the Land of the Thunder Dragon comes along with special rates at COMO Metropolitan Bangkok (just send COMO Buthan an email). My husband and I happily took the occasion as we had liked our stays at other COMO branches (London, Miami).

COMO Metropolitan Bangkok was built in 2003 and last renovated in 2016. It is a modern high-rise building with 11 floors featuring 169 rooms.

Location

While I rate its location in the central business district of Sathorn as good, I personally think it is better to stay near the Chao Phraya river. This allows you not only to see river life close up but also brings you in proximity to ferries. And traveling on the water is often faster and more relaxing than by other means of transport in this city plagued by traffic. And the latter is especially bad on Sathon Road, where the COMO hotel is located. That said, it is situated in a quiet side street where you are not exposed to noise.

Whereas you need about 40 minutes to reach the river by foot, you are only ten minutes away from the nearest metro station (MRT, Blue Line, Lumphini). Plus, there are numerous great restaurants nearby. And one of the best rooftop bars in town, the Moon Bar at Banyan Tree Hotel, is just round the corner.

Rooms/Pricing at COMO Metropolitan Bangkok

You find quite a wide range of room categories at COMO Metropolitan Bangkok: City Room (26-39 sqm, from 123 US$), Studio Room (43 sqm, from 138 US$), Metropolitan Room (51-54 sqm, from 146 US$), Terrace Room (80 sqm, from 174 US$). Plus, there are three different kind of suites. Price wise, you get away inexpensively. This is especially true compared to luxury front river hotels just as the three I mentioned above. These will easily cost you double or triple.

As mentioned, we spent three nights here, at a discounted rate. And we had a Metropolitan Room Twin.

Metropolitan Room

Our room was on the highest floor with a beautiful view of the central business district of Sathorn.

As to its style, it is sleek with clean lines and neutral colors. While it is predominantly kept in a western style, you also find the one or other eastern accent.

The bathroom is spacious, with the same view as the bedroom. There is a large open shower and a separate tub, all in limestone.

Unfortunately, there is only one, rather small sink, although you could have made two of them without difficulties (enough space).

My husband and I felt at ease here as the room was generously sized and offered lots of natural light from the floor-to-ceiling windows.

Ambiance/Staff at COMO Metropolitan Bangkok

There is an atmosphere of calm and pleasant minimalism throughout the property. As to the rooms, you clearly notice a western vibe yet discreetly paired with eastern touches.

Staff at the reception and the doormen were friendly, helpful and attentive. When it comes to the restaurant (Nahm, modern Thai), I have mixed feelings. As to breakfast, we had no issues.

Dinner was a bit different. While everyone around us got one dish after the other, we had to wait one hour for our amuse bouche. When we inquired about the delay, we got an unsatisfactory response from the waiter. Once the dinner (tasting menu) finally took off, there was an ongoing coming of plates (many at the same time). And the last one was served in less than an hour from the starting time! This is not what a tasting menu is supposed to be! On the positive side, food was good.

Plus, at one time, a friendly female maître d’ came by the table to chat to us.

Facilities/Restaurants 

On site you find a wellness center, the largest of all COMO city hotels. It comes with ten treatment rooms, a 25 m/82 ft outdoor lap pool, a fitness room, a yoga studio, steam rooms and hydro pools.

As to dining at COMO Metropolitan Bangkok, I already mentioned their one and only restaurant Nahm. You get here a modern take on traditional Thai fare. I will go into this Michelin one-star restaurant in more details in a separate post to come about fine dining restaurants in Bangkoks’s Sathorn district.

A post-Bhutan stay in Hua Hin/Thailand

Before singling out Hua Hin as our destination for a relaxing time on the beach after our Bhutan journey (see above), I have never heard about this place. As I learned later, the rather provincial town of Hua Hin has become a popular getaway for both locals and tourists. And this not least to its easy accessibility from Bangkok.

What once began as a quiet fishing village, turned into a summer retreat for Thai royalty in the early 20th century and later also drew Bangkok’s nobility. Nowadays, lots of upscale second homes line the beach front.

As to the latter, it does not earn a prize for being one of the most beautiful ones in Thailand, yet it is not too bad either. The most known is Hua Hin Beach, which stretches for about 5 kilometers (3 miles). It is nice for a long walk, although, in certain parts, much of the beach disappears during high tide.

Aside from being a beach resort, Hua Hin is known for its night markets, numerous golf courses and wellness offers. If you want to do some sightseeing, I would not qualify it as super ideal for this purpose.

As to staying in style, there are some places that fall in this category. Yet, you are not really spoiled for choice here. Now to where my husband and I resided during our four-night stay, and this was at The Barai.

Hotel The Barai Hua Hin/Thailand

While The Barai was opened as standalone luxury hotel and spa in 2007 by Hyatt Hotels, it became affiliated with the adjoining Hyatt Regency Hua Hin Resort in 2012. It is very boutique, with eight suites only.

Location

The Barai is situated about 4 km/2.5 mi south of downtown Hua Hin. I would not encourage you to walk to the town center as the way leads along the busy, nondescript main road. However, you might think about doing so along the beach, for which you need about an hour.

By car, you reach downtown in about ten minutes, but only if traffic is light. This may not be the case on evenings and weekends.

As to other attractions nearby, there are two night markets, open from Friday to Sunday. On the one hand, there is the Cicada Market for predominantely non-food products like art, jewelry, clothing and handcrafted things. On the other hand, you find here the Tamarind Market for foods.

Rooms/Pricing at The Barai Hua Hin

There are eight suites in four two-storey villas.

In case you opt for downstairs (The Barai Pool Suite) as my husband and I did, you are in for a verandah,

plunge pool and garden.

If you go for upstairs (The Barai Balcony Suite), you have a balcony (5 sqm) with sea view.

Both have in common 101 to 144 sqm of space, an oversized king bed (3 m/10 ft wide!),

an entry hall with daybeds, a dining area as well as separate coffee and tea stations,

a huge bathtub with two oversized daybeds,

two individual walk-in closets with bathroom for him and her and a sizable shower (with steam function).

Included in the room rate are a butler service, a daily 60-minute massage treatment for two, an in-suite aromatherapy steam and milk bath (prepared by your butler), laundry service for two items per day, as well as full breakfast, all-day beverages, pre-dinner drinks and snacks (all served at Restaurant McFarland House).

The total package is really impressive! The Barai Pool Suite (101 – 124 sqm) is available from 541 US$, The Barai Balcony Suite (144 sqm) from 495 US$. Another accommodation is also part of the The Barai, the Presidential Pool Villa. It is suitable for a maximum of six adults and comes with a private pool, garden and beach as well as kitchenette, study room and dining table for eight persons (434 sqm, rate upon request).

Ambiance/Staff

As a guest at The Barai, you have to check-in and check-out at the “regular” Hyatt Regency, all the rest is separate. On the hotel’s premises, you also find a restaurant (McFarland House, see below), which is – of course – open to the public. It is the place where you have breakfast when staying at The Barai. Those from other parts of the Hyatt premises may also do so if they wish, but not within a bed and breakfast package. On our four breakfasts, there were never many other people around. It always felt quiet, as it was the case throughout The Barai property. It really had an exclusive feel!

What stood out at The Barai was the excellent butler service. Their staff already got it touch before our stay to arrange bookings for the included daily massage. After check-in at the main reception, a butler picked us up and gave us all the necessary information on the hotel. Every morning, someone from them checked on us during breakfast. When our daily massage came up, one of the team appeared to accompany us to the spa. They also reconfirmed our dinner reservations, organized transport to the restaurants and picked us up to bring us to our car driver.

As to the other staff, the one at the McFarland House was friendly enough. At the spa, we only had contact with the masseuses, who were immaculate (the administrative part at the reception was done by our butler).

Bottom line, it was a very pleasant stay in beautiful and serene surroundings, being pampered all day long!

Facilities/Restaurants

As I already mentioned here at several occasions, the spa plays an important role at The Barai. The name goes back to barays, large reservoirs created by the Khmers for use of their daily life. They were considered as life-determining, yet also a source of their spiritual wellbeing. Here at The Barai, these barays are remembered, both in the construction of the spa

and the tranquility court, a 30 m-/100 ft-long unique swimming channel in a court.

As to the spa treatments, they marry traditional Thai rituals and innovative western therapies. 18 single and double treatment rooms are on offer here at this maze-like red building, where the light is caught to reflect the elements of earth, water, air and fire. All the massages we experienced here were expertly executed, enhanced by the building’s special architecture.

The restaurant on the premises, McFarland House, was already a topic in other sections of my post. It is a two-story pavilion on the beach front, dating back to the 19th century.

It was home of Dr George Mc Farland, a man of many merits for Thailand. Parts of his original house were incorporated in the new building. It is a casual all-day dining venue. On the menu you find modern comfort food plus some healthy options. My husband and I only had breakfast here, which was enjoyable. We especially liked the Energy Bowl, the freshly pressed juices and the inventive egg dishes.

It goes without saying that you can also make use of the facilities and restaurants at the other Hyatt hotels onsite. Yet, we did not see the need to do so as we had with The Barai the perfect sanctum of serenity at our disposal. That said, we ventured to town to have dinner. A future post will go into three fine dining spots we visited.

Looking back and forward on my blog

This was the last of five posts on my Bhutan travel reporting, which went into following topics: travel guide, 9-day itinerary, travel plans of luxury Bhutan hotel brands, COMO Bhutan journey and pre-/post-Bhutan stays.

As announced, there will be some more information about Thailand. As my husband and I are serious foodies, we made sure that we enjoyed ourselves in this respect in Siam too. Find more about our culinary Bangkok and Hua Hin adventures soon on my blog.

Date of visit: April 2023

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After identifying must-do Bali places in my first post of my mini-series about this island, I now focus on which hotels to go for a luxury stay in this very spots. While the selection of lodging for staying in style on the Island of the Gods is generally good, there are areas where such accommodations are scarce. After four visits to this island in eight years, I had my share of staying at some of the best Bali luxury hotels. Although I was quite fond of most of them, there are certain things to consider, which I would like to share with you.

Before plunging in medias res, first an overview of my Bali mini-series.

What is my Bali mini-series about?

My current mini-series about Bali comprises four blogposts. The first one was about findings gained after four stays in eight years. And this was especially in the context of luxury travel. I looked into Bali as a travel destination, the best time to visit this island, how to proceed when wishing to do walks here. And I put together an itinerary where to go on the Island of the Gods for sights yet also for staying in style at the same time.

The focus of my second Bali post was about easy walks to do on this island. And I based them on the Bali itinerary I have just mentioned. Just to make clear, it is not about hardcore hikes but about leisurely walks, very often in the island’s many rice fields.

The actual post about which hotels to choose for a luxury stay follows the same itinerary that I wrote about.

And as a (massive) foodie, I tried out the best what Bali has to offer in the field of high-end gastronomy. In particular Ubud does not have to hide in this respect. My fourth and last blogpost will be about five great (casual) fine dining restaurants in the island’s cultural center.

Before coming to luxury hotels by location, there is one more thing I want to write about in this context, and this is prices.

Prices for luxury hotels in Bali

Since going to Bali in 2014 for the first time, there has been a price difference between internationally and and locally owned luxury hotels. Without surprise, the former demand higher rates than the latter. And this for similarly equipped accommodations. While we relied on Indonesian hotels on our first trip in 2014, we did a mix in 2016. The same was true in 2019 and 2022.

To my experience, the service at Indonesian owned properties is almost always convincing. However, this is not necessarily the case as to other aspects. I think in this context of food quality or cleanliness standards. But otherwise, they are usually on par with the ones of international hotel groups. And of course you are not safe from negative surprises when staying at western branded lodging too.

What changed in recent years is that rates at Indonesian and international luxury hotels are drifting apart more and more. If you want a pool villa in Ubud at the latter, you have to fork out nowadays around 1,400 to 1,600 SFR/US$ per night. And that was the price on our recent stay in November, in the shoulder season, with lots of vacancies. At that time, my husband and I had to look for a new place to stay. This was owed to circumstances, but this is another story.

The key message here is that international hotel groups stick to their (over-high) pricing at their Ubud properties. And this, no matter what happens. And their price level has increased considerably over the years. In 2016, we had a large suite at the Mandapa, A Ritz-Carlton Reserve Ubud, for 533 SFR/US$ in the high season. In November 2022, the same would have costed us 1,282 SFR/US$!

Bali upscale hotels by location

While luxury lodging in Bali’s south is plentiful – the tourist hotspot here, geared to sun, sea and sand – , this is not necessarily so in other areas. There is one more place where you find plenty of hotels to stay in style, and this is in Ubud in central Bali. Apart from those two areas, the offer of accommodations suitable for the discerning traveler is not broad.

When having a look at the “underdeveloped” parts of the Islands of the Gods in terms of high-end lodging, the situation presents itself as follows. There is no high-end lodging to speak of in Bali’s west. When it comes to the island’s north, the offer is scarce, and the same is true for the east.

Now to the individual hotels, following the Bali itinerary I mentioned. For information regarding the area where these properties are located, have a look at my first post.

Bali’s south: best luxury hotels

My husband and I can look back on three stays in Bali’s most popular – and crowded – region. And we always went here for a few quiet days on the coast after exploring other parts of the island.

Seminyak

This sleek beach town was our choice when first visiting Bali in 2014. We had opted for The Samaya Seminyak, which boasts a terrific beachfront location.

This hotel, owned by an Indonesian hotel group, offers pool villas only (52 units),

from which the Royal Pavilions are the signatures ones.

If I had to rate this accommodation in terms of luxuriousness, I would give it 7 out of 10.

For more info, have a look at my (short) post about it. As we have not returned, I cannot make any final judgement. From what I read on the internet, reviews are still favorable: Google 4.7 out of 5 and Booking.com 9 out of 10.

Nusa Dua

We went to this enclave of luxury resorts on our 2019 stay. Instead of opting for staying at one of the big names of western hospitality, we chose a Balinese owned property, The Royal Santrian.

You find here pool villas (20 units) only, and the category to go for is the Royal Villa with ocean views.

Rooms are luxuriously appointed in a contemporary style with Balinese touches.

The location on a quieter part along the boardwalk is great. I liked the relaxed ambiance at this boutique accommodation. This together with the good hospitality made it a pleasant stay here in this quite artificial world of Nusa Dua. As to its luxury feel, I give the hotel 7 out of 10. My research on the internet resulted in the realization that it still seems to be a good place for a few days on the beach (Google 4.7 out of 5 and Booking.com 9.3. out of 10).

Sanur

In contrast to Nusa Dua, you are here in a real coastal town. And it is yet Bali’s oldest beach destination. The reason my husband and I stranded in Sanur in 2016, was the recently opened Maya Sanur Resort & Spa (2015), a property owned by a Balinese family.

The Maya is rather large (103 rooms). In terms of accommodations, we had booked one of the eight Ocean View Pool Suites.

The room was great offering lots of space and a small pool with splendid sea views.

I liked the hotel’s construction, which is modern yet with lots of Balinese elements. As to location, it is perfect in the town’s center just by the beach.

On the negative side, I was not so in favor of the vibe in the pool area and at its breakfast restaurant (Mayasari). When lounging by the pool or having breakfast, I felt like staying at a midscale rather than an upscale lodging. And breakfast was mediocre at best (self service only). Staff generally was friendly, but not more.

As to the hotel’s luxuriousness, I attribute 6 out of 10 points to it. Residing in a good room is not enough. All the rest has to be right too to get a feel of real luxury. I am not sure if I would recommend the Maya to a demanding clientele. The reviews are mixed: Google 4.7 out of 5 and Booking.com 8.8 out of 10 (for me the minimum has to be 9 out 10). Maybe check out the new Hotel Andaz Bali (opened 2021) for your Sanur stay.

Central Bali: best luxury hotels

When speaking about staying in central Bali, it is primarily about hotels in Ubud, the island’s cultural and spiritual hub. And here you encounter a great number of luxury hotels. There are not numerous options to stay in style in and near Ubud’s town center – you find here some nice yet very boutique lodging in the rice fields. Most accommodations that suit the demanding traveler, are a bit away from the town’s core. Some that call themselves Ubud based properties are quite a distance from here.

My advice is to opt for a hotel that is relatively close to the town center. And this for three reasons. First, while 9 or 10 kilometers (5.6 mi or 6.2 mi) does not sound like being far away, this is not true for Ubud. Traffic here can be hell, and you might end up getting stuck in roadways quite a long time. Second, in case you plan to have dinner in Ubud’s core – you should as a foodie, my next post goes into this – , it is much more convenient. Third, staying close by allows you to walk into town (see my recent post).

Ubud

On our three Ubud stays, we lodged at two different hotels. Actually, it should have been three. My husband and I had booked a boutique hotel in the rice fields (no access by car) when being last here.

Unfortunately, this did not work out for us, so had we to find another solution on short term. We ended up in returning to the one we stayed in 2014. They offered a big discount (it was in shoulder season), in opposite to all the others we checked out in our desperate efforts to find a new place to stay.

The Samaya Ubud

The Samaya Ubud, managed by an Indonesian hotel group, was our choice of accommodation on our first visit to Ubud in 2014, and our “stopgap” in November 2022. While I was pretty fond of it on our first stay (see my short review), it is still a good choice. However, it is in need of some maintenance. My husband and I had the impression that the hotel has not yet fully woken up from its “Corona slumber”. Some villas are freshly painted, others not. Some furnishings were up to date, others needed replacing.

Yet, the property still enjoys this spectacular hillside location at the foot of the Ayung river. The deep valley views over rice terraces are really hard to beat.

And the 19 pool villas offer the comfort you would expect from an upscale hotel.

Also the service orientation here is strong. Yet, some efforts are bound to happen to become a top notch property again (maintenance as mentioned, more thorough cleaning and better breakfast pastries).

As to reviews, it still gets good ones: Google 4.7 out of 5 and Booking.com 9.3 out of 10. I give it in terms of luxury 7 out of 10 for our 2014 stay and 6 out 10 for our recent one.

Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve

Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve, is possibly one of the best and most luxurious hotels in Ubud, the 2015 opened third property of the prestigious Ritz-Carlton Reserve brand. To this day, there are five worldwide. What is special about them? They are based on four mantras: Striking, Intimate, Magical and Enlightening. And that is also what you can say about the experience of staying here, what we did in 2016 (see my post about it).

The hotel enjoys – as The Samaya Ubud – a dramatic hillside location on the Ayung river. The buildings cascade down the hill, topped by kind of a mighty fortress. From this “crown” you have an unobstructed view of the whole compound (60 villas and suites). I was so impressed by this amazing piece of architecture! And all the rest is formidable too (ambiance, service, food).

The negative point here is the pricing, which seems a bit over the top. Since our 2016 stay, the rate for the Mandapa Suite (the biggest suite onsite) has doubled from 533 SFR/US$ (20% off from regular rate) in high season to 1,282 SFR/US$ in shoulder season.

Having said that, other Ubud properties of international hotel groups are in the same high price segment (Four Seasons, Amandari).

The reviews for Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve, are fabulous: Google 4.7 out of 5 and Booking.com 9.7 out of 10. I attribute 9 out of 10 points for its perceived luxury feel.

Bali’s north: best luxury hotels

As hinted, luxury hotels in Bali’s lesser visited north are not plentiful. The best places to go here for staying in style are in Lovina or in Munduk. Whereas I visited the former back in 2014, I have never been to the latter.

Lovina

My husband and I chose The Damai for our stay in the quiet coastal town of Lovina in 2014. The hotel is located in the hills above this seaside resort and was built by a Danish advertising executive. It boasts 15 villas, which are different in size and amenities, some have pools. My husband and I liked our Pool Villa and the breakfast here, other aspects were not that convincing (see my post).

I am not sure about the current status of The Damai. I read on TripAdvisor that this hotel has not opened since the pandemic. Some travelers also complained that the reimbursement of payments already payed had turned out to be difficult. I cannot judge whether this is true or not. I noticed on their website under “booking” that this hotel is under renovation until early 2023.

As to reviews, it is not (any more) on Booking.com, it is rated 4.5 out of 5 on Google. As to its luxury feel, I give it 6 out of 10.

Munduk

In Munduk, inland from Lovina, you find an accommodation that might suit the discerning traveler, Munduk Molding Plantation Nature Resort & Spa. You find here not only lodging (11 rooms, some have pools) but also a coffee plantation. Maybe this hotel is worth checking out for your North Bali stay.

Reviews are good: Google 4.8 out of 5 and Booking.com 9.5 out of 10.

Bali’s east: best luxury hotel(s)

This is also a part of the island that is not distinctively touristy. And there is only one hotel here that caters for the discerning traveler, the Amankila in Manggis. But this accommodation of the famed Aman brand is a real find! We stayed here twice, in 2019 and 2022. And we immensely enjoyed it on both occasions!

While it is not a new property, it aged well. And they do a lot as to maintenance here. You find here 31 rooms, from which 12 have their private pools. Yet I do not think that the latter is a must as there are two formidable pools are onsite. Especially the main pool is a true feast for the eyes.

Rooms have all the same layout, which I consider as brillant (oversized and extremely practical).

While some have sea views, others have not. I personally would go for the former – what we did on our our recent visit. It is such a nice thing to linger on the generous outdoor area

and taking in this gorgeous vista!

For details have a look at my post about Amankila. I cannot think of many negative points here. Everything from ambiance, service to food options is great. As to the latter, they have just opened an additional restaurant, an Italian one. Also their complimentary afternoon tea offerings have been expanded. As a last remark, while Hotel Amankila is not an inexpensive choice, it is astoundingly affordable for an Aman property. Staying here does not cost the earth as it is usually the case with other Aman hotels. Reviews for this accommodation are good: Google 4.6 out of 5 and Booking.com 9.3 out of 10. In terms of luxurious feel, I attribute 9 points out of 10 to it.

Overall/What was before and what is next?

My first post in my mini-series about Bali was about how to get the most out of your trip as discerning traveler (general info and where to head for sights plus staying in style). And this very post went into the details, some of the best Bali  luxury hotels to go in the different parts of this island.

In between, there was another one describing some of the best (easy) walks to do on the island, divided by location.

There is one more blogpost in the pipeline, and it is for the foodies among you. It is a guide to the best (casual) fine dining in Ubud in central Bali.

Last date of stay: November 2022

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It took my husband and me long, very long, until our first visit to Mallorca. And this is not without reason. The biggest Balearic Island has been known to be an overtouristed destination for decades (see my post). Until recently, this place was not on our bucket list. And if there had not been the pandemic, I doubt we would have thought about coming to Mallorca. Well, never say never! Finally, we did it. And while it certainly is no big love for me, I do not rule out to return. This destination has much to offer, not only in terms of the “3S” (sun sea sand) and sights, but also when it comes to staying and dining in style in Mallorca. There is quite a number of excellent luxury hotels and Michelin restaurants on this island, from which we visited quite a few.

Before going into details about the hotels we stayed and the restaurants we dined, here is the itinerary of our trip.

Mallorca 15-day road trip itinerary

Find here my Google Map of our journey.

1. Es Capdellà (southwest)

Flying into the Palma de Mallorca airport, we saved the Balearic Islands’ capital for the end of our trip. We drove along Palma’s waterfront to catch at first glimpse at its famous cathedral,

before continuing to the island’s southwest. Here we lodged inland at the foot of the Tramuntana mountains, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was an ideal base to explore the southern part of this impressive mountain range with lots of beautiful landscapes,

picturesque villages

and stunning walks.

Our hotel for the first five nights was near Es Capdellà, a pleasant village in the pre-Tramuntana mountains.

2. Pollença (north)

For our second stay we headed north, and this to Pollença.

It is considered as the cultural capital of the north. Apart from featuring a beautiful old town, it also has nice surroundings.

Our hotel was in the town’s outskirt, where we spent four nights. The days were filled with activities (often hikes) in the northern part of the Tramuntana mountains

and on the Cap Formentor,

Mallorca’s most northern tip. And we also checked out the lovely seaside towns in the area.

3. Canyamel (northeast)

For four more nights, we were in Canyamel. This is a small, quiet resort on the far northeast coast of Mallorca.

From here we explored the island’s eastern part, which is partly hilly but not really mountainous and sometimes also quite flat. You find here not only old towns worth seeing

but also a considerable number of walking options.

As we had opted for a beachside hotel, we also enjoyed some of our time just being by the sea.

4. Palma de Mallorca (southwest)

Our last stop was – as announced – Mallorca’s capital of Palma.

I strongly advice not to skip this city because it is a truly atmospheric place! For our two last nights in Mallorca, we had chosen a hotel at the edge of the upper town,

which was a great location. Not only this oldest part of Palma has a great ancient feel, but you can easily reach all the important spots in town.

Staying & dining in style in Mallorca

As alway when traveling, my husband and I make sure that we choose hotels and restaurants that allow staying and dining in style. But we do this always with an eye for value for money, we do not want to pay exorbitant prices. I think that we managed quite well in Mallorca in this respect, maybe with one exception. And this were the restaurants at our first hotel, which I found price wise a bit over the top.

Find in the following a few brief remarks to all the luxury hotels and the fine dining restaurants we visited in Mallorca. Details about the individual establishments will follow in the time to come on this blog (southwest around Es Capdellà, north around Pollença, northeast around Canyamel, Palma de Mallorca).

1. Es Capdellà (Hotel Castell Son Claret etc)

Hotel Castell Son Claret & Restaurants Sa Clastra/Olivera plus two local restaurants

This was definitely the most upscale hotel of our Mallorca trip! The former 19th century castle

is exclusive, chic, and the superb staff pampers you all day long. And the privately owned property, one of the biggest estates on the island, is unbelievably beautiful. As to lodging, there are lots of options in different building, and rooms are timelessly elegant.

The inland location at the foot of the Tramuntana mountains is very idyllic yet only half an hour by car from Palma. Allow about the same time for reaching the most important sights in the southern part of the mentioned mountain range. The two restaurants – one of them Michelin listed – are very good yet at the higher end of the price scale.

Furthermore, we dined at two local eateries around Port d’Andratx, which offered well-made food, reasonably priced.

2. Pollença (Hotel Son Brull etc)

Hotel Son Brull & Restaurants 365/Bistro plus one local restaurant

The former 18th century monastery

is also situated inland, and this in the foothills of the northern Tramuntana mountains. The stunning ancient town of Pollença is a few minutes away by car. The Son Brull is a luxury boutique hotel, owned by a Mallorcan family. The vibe here is relaxed, staff is friendly and discrete. Rooms are well-appointed in a modern style,

and there are different categories to choose from. The hotel is a great base to explore the scenic surroundings. Both dining-spots onsite – one of them Michelin listed – are excellent and fairly priced.

You can reach the hotel in a bit more than half an hour from Palma.

We also had dinner at a casual Michelin listed venue in Port de Pollenca, which was great.

3. Canyamel (Hotel Can Simoneta etc)

Hotel Can Simoneta & Restaurants Can Simoneta/Sa Pleta by Marc Fosh plus one local restaurant

As the two other hotels mentioned before, it is family owned and a historic place. The latter is at least true for the oldest of the three country houses, the 140 years old guardhouse. The hotel sits high atop cliffs with superb views of the bay of Canyamel in Mallorca’s quiet northeast.

The atmosphere here in this high-end adult-only lodging is tranquil and serene. Staff is attentive and efficient. The premises are kept in a contemporary style, all white and puristic.

From Can Simoneta you can easily discover the island’s east. Coming from Palma, you need a bit less than one hour to get to the hotel. We enjoyed here tasty dinners, and this at “our” hotel as well as at the adjoining sister property (both Michelin listed).

And note, dear gourmets, you find Mallorca’s best rated Michelin establishment in the immediate neighborhood! This is the Michelin two-star Voro at the Cap Vermell Grand Hotel. Of course, my husband and I made the trip to this temple of gastronomy, and we were delighted with our experience!

4. Palma de Mallorca (Hotel Es Princep etc)

Hotel Es Príncep & Restaurant Zaranda plus one local restaurant

Also this hotel is family owned and has a historical reference. It was built on the ruins of Palma’s tanners’ quarter.

If you have dinner at the accommodation’s signature restaurant Zaranda (one-star Michelin), you can look down through a glass floor on the finds of a former tannery from the 13th century. As to this dining-spot, it is one of the top foodie heavens on the island, helmed by Michelin two-star chef Fernando Pérez Arellano. We had a fabulous meal here where we changed locations twice.

In addition, there are lots of other upscale dining options outside the hotel. One more Michelin one-star restaurant was on our agenda.

The Es Príncep is a jewel in terms of lodging too.

The newly opened luxury hotel (2018) is at the edge of the capital’s historic old town, just along the old city walls. It is ideally located for exploring Palma’s numerous sights. And the airport is only ten minutes by car away. Many of the rooms, furnished in typical Mallorca style, have sea views. And the roof top terrace is one of the biggest in town. The vibe here is casual and unstuffy, staff is attentive without being intrusive.

Looking back and forward

While my last post was about Mallorca’s well known overtourism and the ways out of it, the current one is an overview about the 15th-day trip my husband and I took here in early spring 2022.

As my husband and I love staying and dining in style, we had chosen hotels and restaurants in Mallorca to suit our preference. We started with a luxury accommodation near the southern Tramuntana mountains, followed by another one not far from the northern part of this mountain range (both inland). Then we were ready for sea vibes, and this at a five-star establishment on the island’s rugged coast in the northeast. The last stop brought us to Palma – a worthwhile stand-alone destination – , where we lodged at a new high-end hotel in the capital’s historic old town. And throughout our Mallorcan journey, we made sure to dine at the island’s best (Michelin) restaurants whenever possible.

Next on my blog, you will find details about all four stops we did in Mallorca, and this regarding staying and dining. I begin with the southwest (Es Capdellà), continue with the north (Pollença), come to Canyamel (northeast) and end with Palma (capital).

Date of visit: April 2022

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Mallorca, the most visited of the Balearic Islands near the eastern coast of the Iberian Peninsula, must make important decisions as to its excessive tourism. Are the local government’s small corrections of recent years enough to bring about a change of course? Here is how this small island has become one of Europe’s major tourist destinations. And find out what has been done to curb excesses originated by this development.

Before coming to Mallorca’s tourism – that has run amok – , some facts about this vacation destination, which my husband and I had chosen for this year’s spring vacation. And this for the first time ever! After doing so, further posts will be about topics I usually write about, staying and dining in style. First, I will outline our trip’s itinerary, before providing details for every stop in Mallorca (overview, southwest, north, northeast and Palma de Mallorca).

About Mallorca

Mallorca is one of the Mediterranean most desirable vacation destinations. Since 1983, it has been – together with the rest of the Balearic Islands – an autonomous region of Spain. This island enjoys a mild climate with lots of sunshine (annual average of 2,850 hours) and has an average temperature of 18°C/64°F. The tourist season is concentrated from May to October.

While most tourists come for sun, sand and sea,

the island offers something in terms of nature and culture too. Think of the Tramuntana mountains, a protected natural area that was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2011.

Or there is a myriad of places worth experiencing. In this context you have to mention the capital of Palma

or the small towns of Sóller

and Pollença.

And Mallorca is within easy reach of many European countries. In many cases you need no more than two and a half hours by plane to get to it. In addition, there are many (cheap) flights to choose from.

From mass tourism to a more sustainable one?

Tourism development

Spain is one of Europe’s main tourism regions, and Mallorca is its flagship. In the Balearic Islands, where Mallorca is the most important one, the tourism is the “main industry”. 85% of its gross domestic product (GDP) stems from it. And 80% of tourists to this island are international, mainly from Germany and the U.K. (Balearic Island Regional Context Survey).

Since the 1950s, Mallorca has become a major tourist destination. As to the number of visitors per year, there were 3 million in the 1970s, 6 million in 2013, 10 million in 2017 and 12 million in 2019 (Wikipedia/National Geographic). And this with Mallorca’s population of under one million! Of course, this rapid growth caused damages in various areas.

Consequences of the unrestricted tourism growth

Before coming to the effects of Mallorca’s growing popularity among tourists, first to how it all began. Long before overtourism was a problem for cities just as Venice or Barcelona, Mallorca and other Balearic Islands were already known for an out-of-control development of the touristic activities. There is even a specific term for it, the balearización.

Back in the 1950s, Spain’s fascist regime thought that tourism might be an ideal source of revenue. So, they virtually invented European beach tourism. Around Palma, high-rises were erected to attract budget travelers in high numbers. Soon the cruise tourism followed. In such a way, visitors flooded Mallorca in the summer months.

Not before long, the economic blessing of the mass tourism turned into a tremendous burden. For half a century, Mallorca was a symbol of a mass tourism gone mad. Some places such as Magaluf and El Arenal became bywords for debauchery and bad behavior of young vacationers coming to the island looking for a good time.

Of course, Mallorca’s tabloid infamy damaged the island’s image. This not only in the international context, but also among locals. The term for the latter is turismòfobia. Along with this tourist saturation there were more issues: abusive consumption of resources, excessive dependance on tourism, road congestion or rise in prices of rentals and property.

Measures against overtourism

There has been a switch in attitudes on Mallorca for several years now. The local government seeks to make the island’s tourism more sustainable. This to recast its image as a travel destination. A sustainable tourism tax was introduced in 2016. This in order to raise funds for protecting the natural environment, recovering the historic heritage and developing infrastructures to foster slow tourism.

As to the cruise tourism, Mallorca’a officials have recently decided to limit arrivals as from 2023. From this point of time, there shall be no more than three vessels a day at Palma’s port. And only one of them is allowed to be a mega-cruise liner with more than 5,000 passengers. This is supposed to attain a 13% drop in arrivals, compared with 2019.

As far as the drink related problems in popular resorts are concerned, new laws were introduced for certain tourist zones. They do not only ban the sale of alcohol from 9.30 p.m. to 8 a.m., but also forbid all-in-one packages, happy hours, two-for-one drinks and pub crawls. Furthermore, it is illegal to advertise party boats in designated areas. All this in the hope to clear out the drunks and trade partiers for more well-behaved tourists.

Will the transformation into a sustainable tourism be achieved?

Mass tourism has troubled Mallorca for decades. Yet this development did not simply happen, but it was deliberate choice. And therefore, another direction is possible too. However, it will be no easy task. While the post-pandemic period is suitable for making a hard cut, it is also a time where many in the travel industry have empty coffers.

First steps towards a more sustainable tourism have been made, more have to follow. A more upmarket tourism will not immediately bring in the big money. Going through a dry spell seems inevitable. But there are not many who want the pre-pandemic tourism back, which was overwhelming in all respects. Instead, they wish for travelers swapping coastal mega resorts for seeking out natural landscapes and local culture. They want such ones who also spend money on upscale hotels and gourmet restaurants. And vacationers who not only come in July and August but also in the shoulder seasons. And in fact, a transformation seems underway. Quite a number of traverlers yearning for slow and sustainable travel already find their way to Mallorca.

What is next on this blog?

As mentioned at the beginning, there will be more about Mallorca on this blog. I spent a bit more than two weeks on this island in the first half of April, to get to know a destination that was new to me. And I was not only delighted by the island’s natural wonders and man-made attractions but also by its top-tier hotels and fine dining restaurants. While I will not report on the former, I will inform about the latter, and this in quite a few details. My husband and I checked out four luxury accommodations (overview, southwest, north, northeast and Palma de Mallorca) and some of the best gourmet dining-spots in Mallorca. I cannot wait to let you know about them.

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My last post was about the oldest luxury hotel in Madeira, now it is about the latest one, Les Suites at The Cliff Bay. As the name suggests, it is not entirely independent from another hotel, The Cliff Bay. Yet this brings only benefits. Les Suites at The Cliff Bay features almost all the facilities of a typical five-star, despite being boutique. And in addition, you can also use the ones from the mother property. In this regard, its direct sea access is the most important one. All taken together, I think it is the ideal place for staying and dining in style in Madeira!

Before diving into the details about this hotel, here an overview about my other posts on this island in the Atlantic Ocean. I started with all the necessary travel information before listing all the (truly) luxury hotels in Madeira. Then – as mentioned – I looked into the oldest and most traditional resort here, the Reid’s Palace. And my next (and last) post will be about the (Michelin) fine dining scene in Funchal, the island’s capital.

Location of Les Suites at the Cliff Bay Madeira

In case you should have read my post about the Reid’s Palace, Les Suites at The Cliff Bay is just next door of it. And the location is comparable, maybe a tiny little bit less favorable. This is due to the Reid’s better panorama view. But basically, both enjoy the same privileged seafront situation on cliff tops west of Funchal’s core (25 minutes by foot).

History of The Cliff Bay, the mother hotel

Of course Les Suites at The Cliff Bay Madeira has no history to speak of, as it is newly opened (October 2019). But the one of its mother is worth going into, albeit it does not go that back.

The Blandy family, who is one of the groups behind The Cliff Bay, was the former owner of the Reid’s Palace. When Madeira’s grand old dame ran into financial difficulties in 1937, The Blandys took over. They had been the Reid’s proprietor for almost 60 years, before they sold it to the Orient-Express Hotels in 1996. Two years before, they had already opened The Cliff Bay, “the grand young dame”, a tough competitor for the Reid’s.

The Cliff Bay was supposed to challenge the Reid’s Palace as leading luxury hotel on the island. From what I read, it was quite successful in this respect. Although its exteriors reflect the spirits of the 90s, it has immaculate facilities. In 2021, the hotel was refurbished. That included the rooms, reception and the signature restaurant, the two-star Michelin Il Gallo D’Oro. Almost all its 200 rooms face the Atlantic and have both a bath tub and a separate shower. And they feature luxurious furnishings, wood paneling and marble bathrooms.

About the PortoBay Hotels & Resorts

The Cliff Bay and it new addition, Les Suites at The Cliff Bay Madeira, are part of the PortoBay Hotels & Resorts group, which flagship establishment it is. This hotel association has its origins in Madeira. Two local parties control it, the mentioned Blandy family and Ocean Islands. While the former owns the famous Madeira wine company of the same name, the latter is an unknown entity – I did not find anything on the Internet about them.

The hotel group was founded in 2000 and comprises of 15 hotels in Portugal and Brazil. PortoBay Hotels & Resorts offers a competitve customer loyalty program, which has apparently generated 30,000 repeat guests so far. I have checked it out and I am very tempted to make use of it, too.

Ambiance at Les Suites at The Cliff Bay Madeira

I was very impressed by the successful interplay between old and new at Les Suites at The Cliff Bay. Two century-old buildings and a modern new wing come together in perfect harmony. And I liked the ambiance at the hotel exuding understated luxury rather than flaunting wealth.

Les Suites at the Cliff Bay’s contemporary appearance goes side by side with the general atmosphere onsite. This is reflected in the reception area with its uncomplicated approach. The same is true for the trendy restaurant with its relaxed feel. And the lounges are hip, you could encounter them also in places such as Ibiza. Nonetheless, the hotel does not only cater for younger guests. I would think that there is a mixed-age clientele.

Staff/Service

When checking-in at Les Suites at The Cliff Bay Madeira, I was in a somewhat special state. I did this alone as my husband was at a local hospital (he had suffered a medical emergency at our previous hotel in Funchal). Soon after checking into my room, I got a call from customer relations. They let me know that I would get a reduction on the room rate as long as my husband could not join me. Two or three days later, they called again and asked how my husband was doing.

Also the reception staff asked about my husband’s state of health, again and again. There was one lady in particular who showed great sympathy and empathy, which was much appreciated by me.

Service at the restaurant (Avista, see below) was friendly, attentive and smooth. It was provided in the same relaxed manner that we experienced throughout the hotel.

Rooms/Pricing at Les Suites at The Cliff Bay Madeira

As the name says it, there are only suites here, precisely 23 of them, all with sea views. They are modern, spacious and well-appointed. Not only do they have a free minibar with soft drinks, but also a wet bar with coffee machine and microwave (on request). The rooms feature greek marble bathrooms with walk-in showers, large bath tubs and double sinks. On arrival, you are treated with a bottle of wine and fruits – the latter are replenished throughout your stay.

In terms of room categories there are five to choose from. All accommodations except two are in the new modern wing.

1. Suites

There are 6 Suites (60 sqm & 17 sqm balcony, rates from 425 €)), which are located on the second floor. There is a bedroom as well as a large living-room.

2. Suites with Garden

You find here 9 Suites with Garden (60 sqm & 17 sqm patio, rates from 475 €). They are equal to the Suites above, yet on the first floor with a small private garden featuring two sun loungers.

On the second part of our stay – we had to extend it because of my husband’s medical emergency – , we had one of those (priced at 5oo € per day with breakfast, half board 84 € for two persons). It was a great choice with lots of indoor and outdoor space.

It was only a pity, that the outdoor furniture was drenched every morning due to a faulty law sprinkler.

3. Suites Duplex

Les Suites at The Cliff Bay Madeira offers 6 Suites Duplex (66 sqm & 15 sqm, rates from 425 €), which are on the second and third floor. On the lower floor, there is a spacious living-room

with a bathroom including a shower

and the larger of two balconies.

Your own private elevator (or the stairways)

brings you to the upper floor with a sizable bedroom,

a generous bathroom (with bath tub and shower)

and a small balcony.

This was the room category we had booked for our stay here (at a daily rate of 500 €) – and where I resided on my own due to my husband’s being at the hospital. I was much in favor of it because of the expansive space situation – far too much for one person yet pleasant anyway. A slight drawback might be the fact that you have to be quite organized in here, otherwise you have to walk up and down the stairs quite often. If you travel with one kid, this is your preferred choice!

4. Artistic Suite

There is one Artistic Suite (63 sqm & 16 sqm balcony, rates from 400 €), located at one of the historic buildings. It has an open-plan layout with a freestanding bath tub right behind the bed. An enclosed bathroom is part of the room as well, coming with a shower.

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The flower island of Madeira prides itself to be one of the oldest tourist destinations in the world. And the Reid’s Palace, a Belmond Hotel, is definitely the grand old dame here. It has welcomed guests to its luxury retreat for over a century, among them many famous ones. And it really has something to offer. Be it the setting on cliff tops in subtropical gardens overlooking the sea or the traditional appearance celebrating the hotel’s British heritage. For my husband and me it was clear that we wanted to find out how it is staying and dining at the Reid’s on our second visit to Madeira. When we had traveled to this island for the first time, we had already enjoyed dinner here. And now we wanted the whole experience.

If you care for travel information on Madeira, find here everything you have to know when thinking about coming to this island.

For an overview on where to find a truly luxurious hotel in this destination, head here. Now to the essentials of staying and dining in style at the Reid’s Palace in Madeira.

Location of the Reid’s

As mentioned, the Reid’s setting on craggy cliffs above the Atlantic Ocean is breathtaking! The lush sub-tropical gardens that envelope the property are incredibly beautiful. Strolling here and gazing out at the sea was one of the best things I have experienced at this hotel.

The hotel’s location is favorable, in the west from Funchal’s center and in walking distance to it (22 minutes by foot). And you have splendid views of the water, Funchal and the cruise port – if you like the going-ons at the latter.

History/Renovation

As I informed in my post about where to go in Madeira for luxury hotels, the Reid’s was the first upscale accommodation on this island. It was built by the Scotsman William Reid, who got rich in the Madeiran wine trade. He ordered that the ground be strewn with several tons of rich soil. This in order to create the foundation for the lavish sup-tropical gardens he had planned here.

Unfortunately, he did not live to see his hotel opened to guests in 1891. Instead, his two sons continued his work. The Reid’s family was in charge until 1937. Then the Blandy family of Madeiran winemakers took over. After owning it for almost 60 years, the Blandys sold the property to Orient-Express Hotels in 1996. And in 2014, this company changed its name to Belmond Hotels.

Many illustrious guests have passed through the Reid’s doors. To name a few, Winston Churchill, the British statesman, George Bernard Shaw, the Irish writer, Margaret Thatcher, the first British female prime minster, Gregory Peck, the American actor, or “Sissi”, Empress Elisabeth of Austria, were here in the course of years.

The hotel underwent a thorough renovation in 2006. Guest rooms got an update, and some communal spaces received a new design. Furthermore, a spa was added. While the refurbishment apparently brought a brighter feel to the Reid’s, the respect for its heritage and the period furnishings was maintained.

About the Belmond hotel group

Since the acquisition of the iconic Hotel Cipriani in Venice in 1976, Belmond has continued to expand its portofolio of exclusive properties for staying in style. These include the illustrious Venice Simplon-Orient-Express train or the Hotel Splendido in Portofino.

In 2014, the company changed its name from Orient-Express Hotels Limited to Belmond Limited. In 2019, it joined the world’s leading luxury group LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton.

Ambiance at the Reid’s

As already hinted, the Reid’s Palace in Madeira is a traditional hotel, with everything that entails. The hotel’s English heritage is well remembered. This involves the interiors as well as some old British customs, which are kept alive. There is for example the famed afternoon tea on the terrace or the dinner dances complete with preceding dance classes. Having said that, the ambiance at the Reid’s is not stiff. The hotel exudes a somewhat relaxed elegance. At certain times and places on our stay, the atmosphere was even lively, however never (too) loud.

There seems to be quite a number of repeat guests at the Reid’s, often from the United Kingdom, I suppose. Furthermore, I had the impression that much of the clientele come here for lounging poolside or seaside. Already before breakfast, many of the (best) sun loungers were taken, either in person or with a placeholder. And of course, the latter is a no-no!

Staff/Service

While the service at the Reid’s Palace in Madeira is generally good, there were a few hiccups on our stay. Some staff had the most perfect attitude, others less so. Upon arrival, a nice lady at the reception showed us around the premises and pointed out all the important things to us. Before that, there was no doorman when we arrived by rental car at the hotel entrance. Unsure what to do, we got the luggage to the reception ourselves and had to find someone to tell us what to do with the car (you have to park it yourself at another spot). This is not really the way how you receive arriving guests at a luxury hotel!

What I also found special, was the fact that there was always a queue for the breakfast service. Every morning between 8:30 and 9:00 a.m. you had to wait about a quarter of an hour for an available (outdoor) table. That was not the fault of the gracious lady at the reception desk but because of no vacancies!

Unfortunately, my husband had a medical emergency on our stay and had to be hospitalized. Again, some staff reacted in an exemplary manner (the gentleman who stayed with my husband until the ambulance arrived or the lady at the reception desk who hugged me when I showed up alone for breakfast the following morning). Others did not, in particular an older gentleman at the hotel reception who first was reluctant to help me with arrangements for moving to our next hotel. And last but not least, there was no follow-up from the Reid’s as to how my husband was doing after my departure (my husband was still at the hospital at the time).

I am well aware that my stay at the Reid’s was overshadowed by the events around my husband. However, the true service character is revealed in difficult times, isn’t it?

Rooms/Pricing at the Reid’s Palace

158 rooms are at your disposal at the Reid’s Palace in Madeira. They vary in size and shape due to the old structure of the property. Many of them have sea views but pay attention to the fact that not all the ocean-facing ones feature unobscured views of the water. It may by hidden by trees or bushes. In case you put emphasis on having a sea view, I recommend requesting it at the time of booking. Rooms are available as from about 380 € (in low season).

Some accommodations are in the main building, others in the garden wing. All of them are furnished in an old fashioned yet charming way. And I think they were more refreshed and updated than thoroughly renovated in the last decade or so. Quite a few are rather small, especially the ones in the main building. If you care for more space, opt for a Junior Suite as my husband and I did.

Deluxe Junior Suite

You find this room category either in the main building or in the garden wing and the accommodations come with sea resp. garden view. They are spacious (37 sqm) with a sizable (marble) bathroom

and classic in style. Ours was in the garden wing (on the sixth floor) and featured a generous sitting area and a large balcony with great views of the sea, the gardens and the town of Funchal.

While it was not a state-of-the-art room and only received a light-touch renovation, it was very comfortable. My husband and I felt well at ease here. Local pastries, fresh fruits and Madeira wine were at out disposal.

We paid a daily rate of 900 € for the room including a (delicious) breakfast.

Facilities

As mentioned above, there are wonderful sub-tropical botanical gardens on site, which are great for a stroll. Regarding lounging by the water, there are two heated pools, one with seawater, the other with freshwater.

Alternatively, you can descend the stairs to the sea deck. There is no beach but steps leading straight into the ocean.

In addition, you find two tennis courts, a fitness room and a spa on the premises. We did not use the latter two, so I cannot comment on them. They are not located at the hotel buildings but in a separate one in a secluded corner of the gardens. The spa offers five treatment rooms, a couple’s suite, a solarium and a boutique. For kids, there is a children’s club onsite.

In terms of restaurants, there are four of them.

Restaurants at the Reid’s Palace

The signature restaurant is William, a one-star Michelin dining-spot. On our stay, it was only open on Wednesday evening. Here I enjoyed a tasty five-course tasting menu on one evening.

Then there is Ristorante Villa Cipriani, housed in a neighboring building, where we dined on our first day. We already knew the dining-spot from an earlier visit, quite some years ago. Both times we liked what we got, well-made Italian food with a twist, served in a relaxed ambiance.

The Gastrobar resp. the Terrace is the place to go for small bites in the evening. In the afternoon, you get here the traditional afternoon tea, for which you have to reserve well in advance as it is very popular with outside guests. We did not have dinner here, but once had dessert on the terrace. And of course, I had to try out the fabulous afternoon tea, which delivered what it promised!

If you feel like having a light lunch at the Reid’s Palace in Madeira, then head to the Pool Terrace. We did not eat here either but enjoyed a great breakfast every morning on our five-night stay.

Furthermore, there is also the chance to have a meal at certain locations, outdoors or at the historic Dining Room.

In case you should be interested how to dine in style at (Michelin) restaurants in Funchal, there will be a separate post on my blog in the time to come (including my experiences at the Reid’s Michelin-starred Restaurant William and at Ristorante Villa Cipriani).

Overall

Madeira’s grand old dame, the Reid’s Palace, is still one of the best options to stay in style on the island. If you are into old world charm, then the oldest luxury hotel on the flower island is the place to go. However, be prepared to dig deeper into your pockets for staying at the Reid’s than at other comparable accommodations in Madeira. And you have to be aware of the fact that rooms are more on the charming side than cutting edge. Nonetheless, residing here is quite an experience, immersing in a word long gone. And this without the dust and (mostly) without being stiff or stuffy. It is also a good address for gourmets with one of two Michelin starred establishments on the island.

If you want to know more about dining in style in Funchal, my post after next will go into it. First, I will bring another luxury hotel closer to you, Les Suites at The Cliff Bay, just next door of the Reid’s Palace in Madeira. For an overview of (really) upscale accommodations on this island, I have listed them here. In terms of everything you need to know when thinking about traveling to this island, I have put together all the essentials in a blogpost.

Date of stay: November 2021

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Have you ever heard of the flower island of Madeira? If you are European, you most probably have as it is a highly popular travel destination in the area. If you are American, you may not. Until recently, there was no direct flight from the U.S. to this beautiful mountainous island west of Africa. That changed in November last year, when SATA Azores Airlines launched its first-ever nonstop flight from New York City to Funchal, its capital. If you wonder why you should visit Madeira, I have compiled below all the important information that makes this year-round destination so attractive to (active) travelers.

Before I go into Madeira’s features, first a few lines about my motivation to advertise this island.

My relation to Madeira Island

While I usually write about where to stay and dine in style everywhere I go, I make an exception for this place. And that is because I became such a big fan of this island with its incredible diversity of flora. When I first visited Madeira back in spring 2007, I wanted to come back ever since. It took me 14 years to realize my intention. And this time came end of October last year. And again, I was totally awed by this island with its balmy climate and its lovely scenery.

Hence, I decided to highlight its important features before going into my usual writing about where to go for best luxury hotels and (Michelin) fine dining. Just a small spoiler, it does not disappoint in this aspect neither! And to my asthonisment, staying and and dining in style can be quite affordable in Madeira, too!

Now to everything you need to know about this autonomous Portuguese region. I especially address Americans in this context, who now have the chance to travel here by a nonstop eight-hour flight for the first time ever.

Madeira destination information

First, I will point out a few major facts about this island. Second, there will be more specific information on the individual topics.

What is Madeira known for?

• Madeira is a well-known and established travel destination (for Europeans, four-hour flight from many European countries).
• This island is one of the outermost regions of the European Union (in the North Atlantic off the African coast).
• It is a flower island; you find here a plant richness that is one of a kind.
• This place is a mountainous beauty where south and north side are quite different from each other.
• This autonomous Portuguese region is a year-round destination, the weather is always mild.
• While lounging poolside and oceanside is an option, Madeira is not a place for a conventional beach vacation.
• This destination is rather targeted for active visitors; there is a myriad of activities, especially “levada” walking (levadas are irrigation channels with bank side pathways).
• The island is famous for its historic Madeira wine, which is a fortified resp. liqueur wine
• Madeirans are joyful, hospitable and open-minded; and they have a good to excellent command of English

So much to key sentences about Madeira. Next are more details to the respective points.

Where lies Madeira?

Madeira Island is part of the Madeira Archipelago, along with Porto Santo Island as well as the Desertas and Selvagens Islands. It is in the North Atlantic, 900 km (560 mi) from mainland Portugal, 600 km (375 mi) from the Moroccan coast and 450 km (280 mi) north of the Canary Islands. While Madeira belongs to Portugal, it is an autonomous region. And this island is one of the outermost regions of the European Union.

Funchal – that means fennel bay – , on the island’s south side, is Madeira’s capital. It is by far the biggest town here, where roughly half of its quarter million residents live.

What can you expect in terms of nature and landscape in Madeira?

Madeira’s creation is the result of volcanic activity. It is also called a flower pot due to its form. On both sides of the mountainous island center, there are high plateaus. You find here deep gorges that open up into wide valleys on the coast. Sandy beaches are scarce – and if there are, they are with black sand, because of the island’s volcanic origins. Instead you find lots of jagged cliffs.

When the first settlers arrived in the 15th century, everything was densely wooded. That is the reason why they called it Madeira, which means wood. It was prehistoric laurel wood, which has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1999. The settlers cut down this primary laurel wood almost completely. Nowadays only scant leftovers of it remain. Nevertheless, there is still lots of (secondary) tropical greenery. From 700 to 1,550 m (2,300 ft to 5,090 ft) you find subtropical laurel trees, higher up fern and bushes. Two thirds of the island are under nature protection.

In terms of crop plants, the settlers started with sugar cane. This plant was quickly repressed by vineyards (for the famous Madeiran liquor wine). Other plants just as bananas, maracujas, guavas, papayas and mango were also introduced.

Worth a mention in this context might also be the Dragon Tree. It is endemic only to Madeira, the Canary Islands and Cape Verde. While it used to be abundant in Madeira, the tree population was cut down because of its plant sap, the dragon blood. The red sap was used a coloring agent. Nowadays, you find this tree almost exclusively in the island’s botanical gardens.

Why is Madeira called flower island?

Madeira’s volcanic soil is fertile. In addition, there are humid trade winds that cause a relatively high precipitation throughout the year. Both  together with lots of sunshine results in an incredible diversity of flora. I have already gone into the subject of the laurel forest above. Now, it is the turn of flowers.

Most of the flowers you find here are not endemic. In the 18th century, merchants brought exotic plants from all over the globe to Madeira. And this because the island served as a stopover on their way to England. Here they could acclimatize in the mild climate before they were shipped to their final destination. From South Africa stem the birds of paradise or the torch lily. Japan supplied hydrangea

or orchids.

Mexico was the country of origin of dahlia or zinnia.

If you want to have a close look at Madeira’s sea of flowers, visits to the Madeira Botanical Gardens

and the Monte Palace Tropical Gardens are must-do activities.

The former is a 80,937 sqm (20 acres) property with magnificient views of Funchal. They used to be part of the William Reid’s estate (the owner of the famous Reid’s Hotel). These gardens feature more than 2,000 species of exotic plants and is divided in five different parts. The latter is located even higher up above Funchal in Monte and covers a surface of 68,800 sqm (17 acres). Here you find 1,000 plant species plus one of the largest cycad collections in the world. It is well worth a wander around their maze of pathways.

What is known about Madeira’s history of tourism?

Madeira has a long history of tourism. It all began with its important position on the route to colonies and trading points as from the 15th century. Especially British merchants also set up their own trading firms here. First they traded with sugar, then with wine. And a small but powerful group of British residents in Madeira developed.

After this kind of “colonial tourism” there was a shift to “therapeutic tourism” in the 19th century. Madeira was advertised as health resort whose climate was thought to have positive effects on pulmonic diseases. Britons arrived first, then also people from other nationalities, mainly members of the wealthy European aristocracy. While at the beginning most thought of this island essentially as a therapeutic port, this changed soon. More and more people visited Madeira because of the beautiful scenery and/or in order to spend the winter here.

For a long time, Madeira relied on elite tourism. Until the 1970s, there was a high number of four and five star resorts but few others. From the 1980s, the infrastructure of lower-priced lodging was improved. Today, the island is a highly popular tourist destination with roughly eight million overnight stays by visitors (2019). It is also a favored port on the Atlantic cruising routes. Cruise ships are docked at Funchal’s port every day of the week.

Most visitors come from the United Kingdom, Germany and France.

When is the best time to visit Madeira?

Actually, there is no bad time for visiting the subtropical island of Madeira. The weather is mild all year round, with summer highs of 24°C (75°F) and lows of 17°C (63°F). Winter temperatures are 4°C (39°F) lower. In summer, they may climb up to 30° (86°F), especially in Funchal. Then it might get hot and stuffy in Madeira’s capital, so locals escape to the mountains. Also some waterfalls might dry up in this time. In winter, there is more rain. It may also snow at that time at high altitudes. And you might need a sweater or windbreaker there in summer, as well.

Water temperatures are similar to the air temperatures. From July on, there are pleasant temperatures of 20°C (68°F) to 22°C (72°). And this is until October and sometimes longer. You might even be able to swim in the ocean in December and January.

You have to be aware of the fact that Madeira is not your typical beach vacation destination. This is due – as I mentioned above – to the lack of sandy beaches but also to the weather. In contrast to the stable temperatures, it is capricious. You have to know that there is a clear separating line between the island’s north and south. Bad weather mostly comes from the north, often rain clouds get stuck here. And it rains much more here than in the south. Quite often, you can experience the island interiors and the north only in the morning without rain gear. And weather changes occur fast.

Best travel times to visit Madeira are either spring – when plants are in full bloom – or fall – when it is still possible to swim in the ocean. Yet summer might also be favorable if you do not mind possible heat and humidity (in Funchal).

How do you get to Madeira?

Many European airports have direct flights to Madeira Airport (FNC), which is also known as Cristiano Ronaldo Madeira International Airport. If you wonder about this name, Cristiano Ronaldo is Madeira’s most famous citizen, a very known football/soccer player. The flight time to Madeira is about four hours from a great number of European countries.

From Switzerland for example, Edelweiss offers up to three direct flights from Zurich to Madeira, with a flight time of four hours.

As from November of last year, Madeira launched its first-ever nonstop flight to Funchal from New York City’s John F. Kennedy Airport. And this with SATA Azores Airlines in partnership with Inovtravel, a Portuguese tour operator. The flight time is about eight hours. As far as I know, this connection only takes place in the winter half year.

What kind of activities are possible in Madeira?

I already mentioned that lounging poolside

and oceanside

is possible yet should not be the only reason to visit Madeira (it is no typical beach destination and weather may be capricious). However, it is the ideal place if are into active travel.

The range of possible things to do is wide. One of the most favorite activities is walking/hiking.

There is a unique network of narrow irrigation channels known as levadas at your disposal. They were originally dug to transport water from the rainy north to the dryer south. They are still in use, and their banks also serve as pathways for walkers/hikers. The levadas cover almost the whole island. You even find an urban one in Funchal!

Higher up in the mountains you also find marked trails. You can even climb up to the top of Madeira’s highest mountain, the Pico Ruivo at an altitude of 1,862 m (6,108 ft).

Another recommended trail is a walk/hike on the desert like peninsula in Madeira’s uttermost east.

Apart from walking/hiking there is much more to do: trail running, mountain biking, paragliding, surfing, deep-sea fishing, mountaineering, canyoning, dolphins- and whale watching as well as scuba diving. As to the latter, there is a diverse variety of sea life to watch, including the brown moray eel, giant anemone, Atlantic trumpetfish, yellow barracuda, flaming reef lobsters and zebra sea bream. 

And of course, there are numerous sights not to be missed. I will not go into details here, only to name a few in Funchal and nearby: several botanical gardens, historic old town of Funchal,

coastal fishing village of Cāmara De Lobos;

Cabo Girāo Skywalk, Europe’s highest cliff skywalk,

and so one.

How to get around in Madeira?

Madeira’s road network resembles that of my home country, Switzerland. There are lots of tunnels and elevated highways, which allow rapid travel through peaks. This well–developed road network is a consequence of Portugal’s joining the European Community. In such a way, Madeira got access to correspondent development funds. Having said that, there are still small, steep and curvy roads once you come to the mountains.

The best way to get around is by rental car. I recommend opting for a smaller car. And this is because there are still many mountains roads criss-crossing the island. You will not be able to avoid them if you are on your way to certain trailheads.

The bus network is quite dense, especially around Funchal. You can reach a number of sights by bus. However, be aware of the fact that you will not be able to get to all the interesting spots on the island in this manner.

Are there any other interesting facts about Madeira?

First, the island of Madeira is famous for its Madeira wines, which are liqueur resp. fortified wines. They have an alcohol content of 17 to 22% by volume. You drink them not with food – they are not dinner wines – , but either as aperitif or dessert wines. As to their making, wines are heated first before they are carefully cooled down again. Then you let them mature for at least 18 months.

Second, there are numerous celebrations that take place here, for instance flower, organ, philharmonic and – of course – wine festivals. If you are interested in attending a specific one, check out Madeira’s festival calendar.

At last, some lines to the food you encounter in this autonomous Portuguese region. The cuisine here is healthy and rich. Typical dishes are bife de atum com milho frito (tuna with fried corn), filete de espada (scabbard fish),

espetada (meat skewers), pudim de maracuja (passionfruit pudding) or lapas (limpets).

Other staples are bolo de caco (circular flatbread), bolo de mel (sugarcane honey cake)

or broas de mel (molasses cookies).

And if you want to try the local drink, then you have to ask for a poncha. It is made with aguardente de cana (distilled alcohol made from sugar cane juice), honey, sugar and fruit juices (orange, lemon or other).

What is next on my blog about Madeira?

In case this information has made you more curious about this island, you might also be interested in where to stay on a possible visit to Madeira. This will be the topic of my next blogpost. I will start with a brief glance at the beginning of the island’s hotel industry before going into Madeira’s current luxury hotel landscape. A closer look at two high-end accommodations where I stayed on my recent stay will follow (Reid’s Palace and Les Suites at The Cliff Bay).

And to end my mini series about this island, I will give advice where to go for dining in style when visiting Madeira, either at hotel restaurants or outside.

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If I had to make a list of my favorite luxury hotels in Switzerland, then Castello del Sole Ascona in the canton of Ticino would rank in the top positions! There is no other lodging in my home country offering so much seclusion and room to breathe! It is wonderfully set on a beautiful piece of land directly on Lake Maggiore. Also the facilities are immaculate complete with a Michelin starred restaurant. And the staff knows its stuff, too. No wonder, my husband and I chose this fabulous place for our early summer vacation! And imagine it has just been named Hotel of the Year 2022 by Gault Millau Switzerland!

Before coming to the Castello del Sole Ascona itself, a few remarks to the Ticino, where to go for high-end accommodation here and some more details about two stops we did on the way to the Ticino.

Ticino & two overnight stops on the way

When living in Switzerland’s northwest, there is actually no need to do an overnight stop on your way to the “Swiss south”. My home country is small and you can reach every other spot in a few hours’ drive. Notwithstanding that, we felt like spicing it up a bit. After all, we had already been to the Ticino in last November and September – thanks to Corona, so “Swisscations” only!

Hence, we used the opportunity to try out two hotels that were new to us. On the one hand, we spent two nights at the ultra-luxury The Chedi Hotel Andermatt (my post) in the Alps just by the Gotthard Pass.

On the other hand, we made a detour to the northeastern part of Switzerland to stay one night at a gourmet retreat, the stylish boutique hotel Mammertsberg, (my post), close to Saint Gallen.

Ticino, Italianità made in Switzerland

My husband and I like going to the Ticino, as many other Swiss Germans and Germans. It is the place in my home country where you feel like you are in the Mediterranean.

Here you have the choice between Lugano

or Locarno

resp. Ascona

to spend some time in the subtropical landscape. While Lugano on Lake Lugano is the largest town in this Swiss canton featuring a nice old town and numerous mountains with splendid viewpoints, Locarno is smaller (and more touristy). The same is true for Ascona, a neighboring village. And both are located on Lake Maggiore. Ascona is a truly idyllic spot, boasting an enchanting historic core and a picturesque lakeside piazza.

Luxury hotels in Ticino

When deciding not to leave Switzerland for summer vacations, the Ticino usually is top of the list for my husband and me. So, we have stayed at many of the luxury hotels in the area. And of course I have written several blogposts about this subject, too. For an overview of accommodations here, have a look at “A guide to luxury hotels in Switzerland, part two“. If you look for more specific information about Lugano’s high end lodging, please refer to “Where to stay & dine in style in Lugano, Switzerland“. In case you want to go to Ascona, check out “Hotel Eden Roc, one of three top luxury hotels in Ascona, Switzerland“.

While the latter focuses on Hotel Eden Roc Ascona – where we were last year – ,

I will now go into Hotel Castello del Sole Ascona. This is the accommodation in the Ticino where we have stayed most. I have counted, we have been here for the seventh time! However, our last visit here was in 2014. So, I was excited to see what has changed since then.

Staying in style at Hotel Castello Del Sole Ascona 

Location

As pointed out already, the setting is spectacular. The site includes 140 hectares! And this in the small country of Switzerland where many things are close together! So, if you like lots of personal space and privacy, as I do, this is the place to go. The 11-hectare-park with artfully scattered lounge chairs, hammocks and quiet corners is one of the biggest attractions at the sun castle (the translation of Castello del Sole).

And you are directly by Lake Maggiore. There is a beautiful private beach with – you know by now – lots of room to breathe.

The hotel is only one part of the whole property. In addition, there is a farm – Terreni alla Maggia – where they produce wine and rice, amongst other things.

And there is a bird sanctuary as well, given the location right by the fertile Maggia river delta. To reach Ascona’s center you can use either the hotel shuttle, borrow one of the many hotel’s own bicycles or go by foot. It is a lovely forty-minute walk along the lakeshores.

History/Memberships

The property’s history goes back to 1540, when it was built as a traditional Lombardian manor house. Emil Georg Buehrle bought it in 1942 and nowadays it is owned by the Anda and Franz-Buehrle families. There have been severals expanses of buildings since the first one’s construction.

Over recent years, more than 30 million SFR/US$ has been spent on modernizations. And there seems to be a “Castello del Sole 2025” innovation plan in order to safeguard the site’s unique qualities. We will see what the future brings in this respect!

As the membership to hotel groups is concerned, the Castello del Sole Ascona is part of The Living Circle. It stands for four hotels, two farms and two other restaurants (not at a hotel). And the farms’ produce goes to the associated houses. Following hotels belong to this hotel group, all of them are luxury ones. Apart from the Castello del Sole Ascona there are three hotels in Zurich, Hotel Alex Lake, Hotel Widder and Hotel Storchen. If you want to know more about them, check out my blogpost about staying at the Alex Lake

and dining at the Storchen.

Furthermore, the Castello del Sole Ascona also is part of the renown Relais & Châteaux hotel group.

Ambiance/Staff

The Castello del Sole Ascona is one of the largest hotel estates in the Ticino, amidst a huge park and right by the lake. Already arriving here is an experience. When your car sets off down the long driveway, you cannot help but be impressed. After a curve, a gem of a building comes into view, a southern manor house.

There is not only the splendid park but also delightful inner courtyards.

It is an oasis of tranquility that lets your soul feel happy and content. And, what I very much appreciate, the hotel exudes an understated sense of luxury! 

Staff is friendly and professional. It is present when needed, otherwise it is careful to be unobtrusive. In my opinion, service has even become better since my last stay. In the past, there were some headwaiters who were rather on the dominant side. They have retired in the meantime and I like their successors better. There is one more thing to mention in this context. The hosts used to say goodbye in person upon departure. This seems no longer to be the case. But times changed, also because of Corona of course.

Facilities

Onsite you find a range of four restaurants and two bars. Find more details in the separate chapter about dining in style at the Castello del Sole Ascona.

As to wellness, there is a 2,500 sqm spa with everything you can think of in this respect: two saunas, steam bath, hydropool, swimming pool, Kneipp trail, solarium, treatment rooms, hairdresser’s. Furthermore, there is an indoor/outdoor pool plus a jacuzzi.

In terms of other activities, there is more to do: jogging trail, outdoor and indoor tennis courts, free bicycles, beach, water sports/stand-up paddleboarding/motorboat/pedalos (all water activities are chargeable, swimming of course not). For children there is a kids club, a new playground and some animals onsite.

And let me make one more remark as to (sun)bathing. You can either be by the pool, which is adjacent to the hotel building,

or by the beach, which is a five-minute-walk through the park.

And there is much of space available in both areas. If you insist on laying on the sand beach, the space can be a bit tight at certain times. But if you do not, then I can assure you that there is more room than you need on the grass (on sun loungers of course).

78 rooms in three buildings

There are guest accommodations in the main building, where you find 57 rooms, mostly junior suites and double/single rooms (from 438 SFR/US$). This is also where we stayed on our recent visit. We had booked a gorgeous newly renovated Deluxe Junior Suite

in the hotel’s historic part (50 – 57 sqm, from 918 SFR/US$).

Our corner room came with three mini balconies and – unfortunately – a not so good air-conditioner. Go for one that is not located at the end of the building, if you want to avoid this. But otherwise, we enjoyed it here with lots of natural light. However, be prepared that the bathroom might not be overly spacious. After all, it is the most ancient part of the property.

My favorite place to stay at the Castello del Solo Ascona is the Retreat Pavilion (from 1,118 SFR/US$).

Though, be advised, the rooms here will need to be updated in the years to come. Notwithstanding that, they are still a great choice! Situated a bit away from the reception and the restaurants, they are an oasis of calm. The 11 junior suites  (78 sqm) and the two luxury suites (145 sqm) are housed in a Lombardic country estate complete with a lovely courtyard rose garden and a splendid cloister like colonnade!

Lying on your terrace’s sun lounger and contemplating the farm land in front of you is such a relaxing thing to do!

The Well-being Suite Pavilion is the hotel’s newest building (from 1,258 SFR/US$). It is home of not only the spa but also of 8 junior suites (108 sqm), two luxury suites (158 sqm) and two duplex suites (201 sqm).

My husband and I have never stayed here, but friends of ours had. While they liked the generous layout with lots of space, they found the views (of the tennis facilities) not overly appealing.

Generally, in whatever direction your vista is, there are much better ones on site. This is due to the building’s location behind the whole hotel complex.

Dining at Hotel Castello Del Sole Ascona

Mattias Roock, a young chef, has been in charge for the hotel’s gastronomy since 2017.

In high season, when the Castello del Sole Ascona is fully booked, he and his team are responsible for 150 guests! And of course, it is a “farm to fork” concept here given the fact there is the Terreni alla Maggia farm on site.

You find here four restaurants to choose from, but some are usually only open for lunch (Ristorante Al Parco)

resp. for an early dinner in the high season (Ristorante La Spiaggia).

As to Ristorante Al Parco, it is the place to go for a leisurely lunch. If you care for it, I recommend opting for the full board option. In this case you get it for a fair additional charge of 40 SFR/US$ per person. And it includes a fabulous antipasti and salad buffet, a choice of meat, fish, pasta or pizza as main course plus a great dessert buffet.

Ristorante La Spiaggia, which is the beach restaurant, is open if the weather permits it. You get here small bites in a relaxed atmosphere. If I am not mistaken, it is open until 8pm in high season only. This is a new addition to the hotel’s culinary offer. On our last visit, there was only a small beach shack.

Now to the two main restaurants, the Ristorante Tre Stagioni, the “half board restaurant”, and the signature dining-spot, the Locanda Barbarossa.

Dinner at Ristorante Tre Stagioni

If you book half board – 55 SFR/US$ per person and day – , then you have breakfast and dinner at Ristorante Tre Stagioni. And this either on the wonderful terrace (whether permitting)

or in the indoor area.

As to the former, it has been enlarged since our last stay. This definitely is a plus because there is more room now for the individual tables and for external guests.

Breakfast takes place here, too. While the offer for the morning meal used to be quite limited at the time, there is now a broad selection of everything you possibly might need to start the day.

As to the dinner, the chef (Mattias Roock) puts together a daily changing menu with four cold starters, two soups, two hot starters, four main courses, cheese and four desserts. The cuisine is Italian with a twist. Some dishes are rather traditional, other are more refined. The restaurant has 15 Gault Millau points. Special here is that the main course is still served from platters. This allows you to make amendments to the quantities served. While it is a nice custom, I find it a bit meaningless as there is no second service (servers immediately clear the plates). In addition, it stresses the staff at certain times and most guests do not wish any changes.

When being on half board, you can order as many courses as you wish. External guests make their selection from the daily offer. My husband and I usually order four courses, a cold starter or a soup, followed by pasta or risotto, then a main course and finally a dessert. Here you find a sample menu.

Typical menu at Ristorante Tre Stagioni

Our first dinner here on our recent stay started with yellow fin tuna tataki with zucchini salad and pepperoni emulsion.

Next were conchiglie riagate (pasta) with mussels and wild fennel.

The main course was meagre fish with lemongrass sauce and vegetables in juliennes strips.

To end the meal, we went for the apricot and almond variation with amaretti ice-cream. And petit fours were also part of the meal.

Overall, it proved to be a deeply satisfying meal, served in a busy atmosphere by amiable staff. The new restaurant manager – Daniele Sardella – does a good job. He is hospitable, efficient and does not push too much into the foreground.

Next follows our dinner’s experience at the resort’s leading culinary spot, the Locanda Barbarossa. To my knowledge, it is not possible to get credit for the half board expenses when deciding to dine here instead at the Ristorante Tre Stagioni. Instead, check out the hotel’s packages, which usually include a 5- or 6-course dinner at the gourmet restaurant. My husband and I had booked the “Castello Experience” that allowed us – amongst other benefits – to have a 5-course dinner at the Locanda Barbarossa on our arrival day.

Dinner at Locanda Barbarossa

Here the “farm to fork” concept is not a marketing tactic, but one delivers on that promise. They harvest what is available on the grounds: yuzu, 20 berry and 22 tomato variations, their own pepper and saffron, risotto rice and much more.

The chef, Mattias Roock, and his restaurant manager, Sergio Bassi, know their stuff. Not only is the cuisine exceptional and truly noteworthy, but everything is perfectly orchestrated. And on our evening, the weather was perfect for dining in the courtyard, the beautiful Cortile Leone.

Yet the indoor area would have been nice, too.

The restaurant has one Michelin star and 18 Gault Millau points. As to the cuisine, it is grounded in the classic French tradition yet heavily influenced by the Mediterranean one. This fact contributes to a pleasant lightness and freshness. And due to the chef’s former workplaces, there is an added Asian and oriental touch. We loved it! And we liked it much better than the dinner we had here years ago at his predecessor.

Here is what we had …

5-course Menu Degustazione at Locanda Barbarossa

After a seafood amuse bouche

duck foie gras was the star of the first course.

It was paired with apple, black walnuts, apple balsamic vinegar and a brioche with nuts. We proceeded with filled pasta, fagottini with fior di latte ricotta, in unison with Périgord truffle and young vegetables.

Next was lobster blended with Kashmir curry, peas, fruit chutney and coriander.

The main course featured summer deer with celery, bitter orange and bio arabica coffee.

Before it was time for dessert, a refreshing pre-dessert, was served.

The sweet dish, yellow peach, was superb as everything we had here. It was a divine creation made of this stone fruit, verbena, hibiscus and blossom sorbet.

And – of course – the feast was rounded up with some petit fours.

Overall

Do you fancy a Lombardian manor house with expansive green areas in Mediterranean environment by the lake, then I might have a hotel tip for staying in style. If you care for understated luxury, lots of privacy and gourmet dining as well, all the better. You find this and more at the fabulous Castello del Sole Ascona near Locarno in Switzerland’s south, in the canton of Ticino.

I have stayed here a couple of times, the first time some 25 years ago, and just lately. And imagine, the “sun castle” becomes better and better.

Although it was already on a high level. I think for example of the new beach restaurant, the freshly renovated rooms in the hotel’s historic part or the exquisite food at the Michelin starred Locanda Barbarossa. And from what I read, they still have a lot of plans how to beware the property’s unique qualities.

Last date of stay: July 2021

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My latest destination for my early summer vacations was once again my homeland, Switzerland – who is surprised? And Corona could still be blamed. But hey, this beautiful country has such an abundance of travel attractions! As the year before, my husband and I went to the Ticino, Switzerland’s south, looking for near Mediterranean vibes. And there should be two overnight stops en route, one on the way and one on the way back. As always, we wanted it to be a luxury trip with Michelin dining, whenever possible. So we opted for Ascona as our main destination as well as for Andermatt and the Lake Constance area underway. And this because we knew about suitable hotels in those places for staying and dining in style. Yet, we had a luxury Ascona trip in mind in the first place.

What were our choices? In terms of restaurants, we only opted for hotels with gourmet restaurants. So that spared us looking for offsite dining-spots. Before coming to our selected lodging in Ascona, Andermatt and the Lake Constance area, a few words about each of these regions.

Ticino & two overnight stops on the way

Ascona, our main destination, can be reached from the country’s northwest in about two and a half hours’ drive. So there is actually no need to plan on an intermediary stop. But as my husband and I were looking for a change of location and – wanted to try out a specific hotel – , we scheduled a two-night stay in Andermatt.

While this first stop does not require a detour on our way to Ascona, this is a bit different with the one in the Lake Constance area. But as we booked it on short notice, the choice was somewhat limited. So we had a longer drive home. But that was no problem as Switzerland is small. Concretely, you need about two and three quarters of an hour from Ascona to Lake Constance and then another one hour and forty minutes back to Switzerland’s northwest.

1. Ticino, Switzerland’s south, a luxury Ascona trip

As previously reported on my blog, the canton of Ticino is apart from all others in Switzerland. Here people do not only speak Italian, but it is also some kind of Italian Mediterranean within my home country. Think of lots of sunshine, palm trees, water fronts (two lakes), relaxed ambiance and plenty of vacationers, mostly German Swiss or German. And although the Ticino has a bit of Italy, it is decidedly Swiss with all the prejudices that are at least partly true.

Most leisure travelers to the Ticino either go to the Lugano area or the Locarno resp. Ascona one. While Lugano

is the largest town in this Swiss canton featuring a nice old town and numerous mountains with splendid viewpoints, Locarno is smaller (and more touristy).

The same is true for Ascona, a neighboring village. And both places are located on Lake Maggiore. Ascona is a truly idyllic spot, boasting an enchanting historic core and a picturesque lakeside piazza.

The Ticino is one of my favorite vacation spots in my home country. So it is no surprise that you find several posts about it on my blog. Amongst others, I have written about where to stay and dine in style in Lugano (my post) or about all the luxury hotels in Ascona (my post).

2. Andermatt, Swiss Alps

Andermatt is a mountain village (1,437 m/4,715 ft above sea level) at a four-way crossroads, the north-south route (Gotthard Pass) and the west-east one (Furka Pass to west and Oberalp Pass to east).

While this attribute had been an important attribute for a long time, this changed with the opening of the Gotthard Road Tunnel in 1980. As a consequence, Andermatt has been bypassed on the crucial north-south route ever since.

While this Alpine village remained quite popular as a ski resort – snow is almost always guaranteed here in winter – , it otherwise lost importance, from a tourism viewpoint. This is also because the Urseren valley, where Andermatt is located, has a rather harsh climate.

The big change came in 2009, when Samih Sawiris, an Egyptian investor, decided to spend one billion SFR/US$ on the touristic development of Andermatt. First, there was the construction of The Chedi, a five-star superior hotel, and The Chedi Residences.

Then other hotels, vacation homes and mountain railways (SkiArena Andermatt) followed. With the addition of a golf course – seemingly one of the best in Switzerland – , Andermatt became a year-round destination. And Sawiris’ latest coup – and his last one here, as he says – is even a concert hall.

3. Lake Constance area in Switzerland’s northeast

Lake Constance, Central Europe’s third largest lake, straddles three countries, Germany, Austria and Switzerland. The Swiss part is located on the lake’s south-western side and is the country’s most north-eastern area. And it is – maybe in contrast to the German one, which is notably sunnier – not overly touristy.

Having said that, there is a bunch of things to do in the area. Attractions include the Rhine Falls in Schaffhausen (Europes largest waterfall), the Mainau Island (the Flower Island, Germany) or the Abbey Precinct of Saint Gallen.

I have been to the area several times in previous years, be it in Saint Gallen (my post), the largest city in the area, or in Heiden, a picturesque rural place not far from Saint Gallen (my post).

After this information on the areas visited on my early summer vacations, now to our choice of hotels.

3 excellent gourmet hotels in eastern Switzerland 

As outlined, we made a first stop at the mountain resort of Andermatt at the foot of the Saint Gotthard. And of course, we chose the signature’s lodging here, the mentioned ultra-luxury The Chedi (my post). Next was the main thing, a luxury Ascona trip. This was a five-night stay in this former fishing village in the immediate vicinity of Locarno, Ticino’s third-largest town. Here we went for a long time favorite of ours, the luxury hotel Castello del Sole (my report). We have not been here for seven years, and we were excited to see the changes. For our way home via the Lake Constance area, we gave Mammertsberg (my post), a luxury boutique hotel, a try.

Now to some more details to these properties. A full review of each will follow in separate posts.

1. Andermatt: The Chedi (1 Michelin star)

This is undoubtedly one of Switzerland’s most luxury hotels, and one of the country’s most expensive ones! It was opened in 2013 as first hotel of Sawiris’ mega development in Andermatt. And The Chedi is really something special! It is an unusual blend of Swiss Alpine chic and Asian vibe. You would not expect to find such a place in a quaint skiing resort as Andermatt! Every one of the 123 rooms – all at least 52 sqm in size – has its own fireplace. You can choose amongst four restaurants – The Japanese Restaurant has a Michelin star – and the award-winning spa is spread over 2,400 sqm and has indoor and outdoor pools. For details, refer to my report about it.

2. Ascona: Castello del Sole (1 Michelin star)

If you care for privacy and space to breathe, this might be the place for you. The whole complex (with bird sanctuary and farmland) covers 140 hectares! And the Mediterranean stately house with charming courtyards, directly located at the Lake Maggiore, is surrounded by an extensive park (14 hectares). It is a five-star superior property and member of the Relais & Château hotel group. There are 78 rooms in different buildings, a 2,500 sqm spa and four restaurants including the Locanda Barbarossa, which has been awarded a Michelin star. Furthermore, you find at the Castello del Sole several indoor and outdoor pools plus a private beach. Find here my hotel review.

3. Lake Constance: Mammertsberg (1 Michelin star)

UPDATE: new management as from fall 2022 (boutique collection by Andreas Caminada, 2-star Michelin chef Silvio Germann)

The Mammertsberg is a true postcard idyll, housed in a hundred-year-old mansion and overlooking Lake Constance. You find this luxury boutique hotel, featuring only six rooms, in the rural canton of Thurgau yet close to the city of Saint Gallen. The property – a Relais & Château house too – has been meticulously renovated complete with the construction of a modern monolith. Onsite there is a one Michelin starred restaurant with an outdoor area with stunning views of lake and farm land. And the hosts (including all staff) are among the most amiable I have ever encountered! As there are no other amenities, it is rather something for a short stay (one or two nights). And for details, refer to my post.

In case you are interested about more details to our luxury Ascona trip combined with two stops on the way, come back later. There will be comprehensive reviews about The Chedi (my report) in Andermatt, the Castello del Sole (my post) in Ascona and the Mammertsberg (my stay) in Freidorf/Lake Constance in the time to come.

Date of stay: July 2021

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The post A luxury trip to Ticino, Switzerland, with Michelin dining & 2 stops en route first appeared on Swiss Traveler

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On our third visit to the tropical paradise of Bali, my husband and I decided to visit the lesser travelled eastern part of the island. And we combined this with a stay at Amankila, a property of the much talked about Aman hotel group. This was an experience that we had had on our bucket list for some time. And, so much can be said, we had a great time here! Regarding all the areas we have visited in Bali so far (including hotel recommendations for those like the finer things in life), have a look at my last post. My next one will be about things to do in Bali’s east. Here is also Amankila located, the hotel I am going to review.

Before coming to the hotel where I had my first Aman stay, a few words to this extraordinary Aman brand.

Aman Resorts

Amankila within Aman

After the opening of Amanpuri in Phuket, two more hotels followed in Bali, first Amandari in Ubud (1989) and then Amankila near Manggis (1992). The latter was designed by the US born Ed Tuttle, as the first one in Phuket. He paid homage to eastern Bali’s Karangasem Palaces with a three-tier pool, inspired by terraced rice paddies.

Since it was built more than a quarter of a century ago, Amankila has been left more or less unchanged. Only some improvements took place here and there. The management really did an excellent job at maintaining the hotel in pristine condition all these years!

Location

Amanpuri is situated on the green hill of Indrakila, near Manggis, a quiet rural town. It is in the less-explored east of Bali, a 90-minute drive from the airport. The area has rather fallen off the tourist radar in recent years. This quite in contrast to the lively Ubud where you find the sister hotel. Having said that, the location is remote yet truly rural and still authentic Balinese, a world away from the tourist crowds and traffic jams of south Bali.

When leaving the main road and climbing up the hill towards the entrance, soon the sea comes into view, behind a long stretch of lush vegetation. Your eyes catch sight of the Lombok Strait, a waterway between Bali and Lombok. And you see the island of Nusa Penida in the distance. And all this this is set against the backdrop of the volcano of Mount Agung (the highest mountain in Bali), a really dreamlike spot of earth!

Ambiance

Amankila is – despite its age – still a masterpiece of timeless architecture. The layout is spectacular. When looking from the sea, the unrivaled center of attention is the pool – although only perceivable as monolithic stone block. It is surrounded by some buildings housing restaurant, bar and lobby. A series of stairs and elevated walkways wind through the grounds with lovely frangipani trees and white bougainvillea to the standalone thatched roofed villa suites.

The atmosphere throughout the resort is soothing, there is never a rush, only comfortable quietude. I even witnessed a gardener mowing the huge lawn with a sickle! When going to the pool, the beach or to the restaurant, there are rarely more than a handful of other guests. As the grounds are extensive and people are few, you are able to enjoy much privacy. It is the perfect place if you long for tranquility and exclusivity!

There are also high-quality Balinese shows by the pool at some days before dinner.

And you even have the chance to experience a traditional Melukat Ceremony, where a local priest gives you a water blessing!

Facilites/Food

The most impressive feature is by no doubts the gorgeous three-tier infinity pool. It steps down the hillside after the pattern of Bali’s cascading rice fields. I could not stop taking pictures at all times of day and night. It definitely is one of the most beautiful pool I have ever encountered!

There is another pool at the beach club that can be reached by descending a winding set of stairs.

A few steps more and you come to the private volcanic beach (blackish sand).

While it is beautiful to look at, there are two points to criticize. On the one hand, there was a lot of debris washed up on the shore (removed by staff members). On the other hand, the views across Lombok Strait are somewhat marred by numerous oil tankers and ferry boats anchored across the bay. There is an oil harbor in proximity and a ferry harbor a bit further in Padang.

and at the beach club). The main restaurant, one level below the lobby, is lovely. It is located outdoor yet roofed in a minimalist décor allowing amazing views of the sea.

The same is true for the bar, located opposite the dining-room.

As to the food, there is no buffet for breakfast, everything can be ordered from an à la carte menu. And all items we had were delicious!

For dinner, there is a choice of western and Indonesian fare as well as a daily changing set menu. My husband and I opted most times for local food

and liked what we got. However, it was not very spicy, at least at the beginning. When I casually mentioned this to an employee (not from the restaurant) towards the end of our stay, the last dinner I got was spicier; whether by chance or deliberately, I would not know …

By day, you are treated to complimentary afternoon tea with western and local pastry on the steps in front of the building.

In terms of wellness and fitness, there is a massage pavilion (a suite converted in a spa) and an outdoor fitness (located at the beach club). Yet there is no real spa or gym to speak of. From what I heard, it is planned to add a new spa facility in the time to come.

Rooms/Pricing

If you have limited mobility, the suites higher up may not suit your needs. The villa was open plan,

extremely spacious (94 sqm resp. 1,011 sqft), with a large bathroom and a generous outdoor terrace. The design aesthetic is timeless, simplicity is combined with a sense of understated luxury. When entering there is a large, very comfortable four-poster bed on one side and a daybed on the other. When walking further, there is some kind of in-between room with another daybed, a bathtub and two separate cubicles with a shower and a toilet in each. At the back of the suite there are two sinks and two closets.

Furnishings are sophisticated, with warm woods, delicate local artworks and cream travertine. All in all, ample space and a design that remains persuasive even after 27 years!

a Melukat water blessing (Hindu ceremony lasting half an hour), a private satay picnic (dinner) in the hills

and an hour-long massage for both of us. All this cost us a bit more than 800 $ per room and day!

Staff

And an other time, we were touring the eastern part of the island with an Aman driver who was a warm and knowledgeable guy. We enjoyed the trip with him very much!

Overall

If you want to escape the crowds in Bali’s south and center and seek an upscale hotel providing understated luxury, an attentive yet discrete service, a tranquil atmosphere, a real soul and the most beautiful pool imaginable,

then you cannot go wrong at Amankila. I had been awaiting my first stay at an Aman hotel with great anticipation and I was not disappointed! It was everything I had hoped for, and even sometimes more. This resort in an out-of-the-way location in east Bali is one of the first Aman properties that was opened. And it is still a timeless beauty after all those years (27 exactly!), although not featuring all the amenities of newer competing hotels.

Date of visit: July 2019

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The post Review of Hotel Amankila, Bali first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Review of Hotel Amankila, East Bali appeared first on Swiss Traveler.