I just wanted to let you know that I have updated my Switzerland directories for traveling and dining in style for 2024! There are the four of them. The first two are about where to go in my lovely home country. You find not only a grand tour of Switzerland but also an overview of premium destinations for the discerning traveler. Furthermore, I inform on where to stay and where to dine in style while traveling along the grand tour through this Alpine nation.

Here are the details:

1. Guide to visiting Switzerland
2. Premium destinations in Switzerland
3. Guide to luxury hotels in Switzerland, part one – core and west
4. Guide to luxury hotels in Switzerland, part two – Alps and east
5. Directory to fine dining in Switzerland, part one – core and west
6. Directory to fine dining in Switzerland, part two – Alps and east

I would like to highlight in particular my advice to foodies spots in Switzerland (5. and 6.).

It is based on dining directories just as the Michelin Guide and the Gault Millau Guide. And whenever they publish a new edition I amend my articles accordingly. But of course my personal opinions also play a role when creating them.

One more remark to end this short blogpost about my freshly updated Switzerland dine and travel in style guides. It is about how to use them. In case you do not want to read them from A to Z – which I would perfectly understand as they are quite long – , then proceed as follows. If you are only interested in a specific place, go to the contents section and click at “show”. Go to the spot of your choice and only read the correspondent paragraph!

Happy traveling and dining to all of you in 2024! And maybe let me know what you think about my directories.

The post My Switzerland travel & dine in style directories first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post My Switzerland travel & dine in style directories 2024 appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Yet again my husband and I made a find on our never-ending journey of chasing down Michelin stars. And this in a place we would have never dreamed of being successful in this mission. The restaurant (with premium hotel) is located in a remote spot in Sarentino valley in the Sarentino Alps. And imagine, you are here only a bit more than half an hour away from Bolzano, South Tyrol’s capital. This is about Hotel Terra The Magic Place, a Relais & Châteaux property, with its two-star Michelin Restaurant Terra. The name could not been more true! There is nothing far and wide, except a ski hut and this exceptional accommodation. Hotel Terra underwent a thorough renovation in recent years and offers high quality premises, boutique style.

Before I give you more information about Hotel Terra The Magic Place, first to the trip itinerary, from which this stay was part of. Precisely, it was the second stop after the nearby Merano, probably South Tyrol’s most popular town for vacationers.

Journey itinerary northern Italy and western Switzerland

Starting in Switzerland, our home country, we left for the Merano (Tirolo) area and afterwards to Bolzano’s further surroundings (Sarentino valley). After these two stops in Italiy’s most northeastern province of South Tyrol, we headed south, yet not too far. And this to Lake Garda. Here we had chosen a spot on its southwestern shore, the small town of Gardone Riviera (hotel/restaurants). This was our last destination in Italy before going back to Switzerland, precisely the Lake Geneva region. And here we had opted for Montreux. See also my overview post of this trip.

In case you should be interested rather in northwestern Italy, meaning Piedmont and Italian Riviera (plus south of France), here is another trip itinerary, undertaken in 2021. On both journeys, staying in luxury hotels and dining in Michelin (star) restaurants was important to us. But this only if prices for doing so were not excessive.

Now to our stay in the the Sarentino valley.

Staying in style at Hotel Terra The Magic Place Sarentino valley

Location

I already gave some hints as to this premium hotel’s situation (Sarentino valley in the Sarentino Alps above Bolzano in South Tyrol). In case you come from Bolzano in the south, you get to the valley’s capital of Sarentino in less than half an hour. From here you have to drive 15 more minutes on a narrow winding road to reach Hotel Terra The Magic Place. While there is not much traffic on this stretch of road, be prepared to face the one or other difficult situation when meeting oncoming cars!

If you should arrive from north, then you probably started in Austria. From Innsbruck you need about two hours to get here, crossing the Brenner pass. This is a mountain pass over the Alps, which forms the border between Italy and Austria.

While you are in Sarentino at 980 m/3,315 ft above sea level, Hotel Terra The Magic Place is much higher up, at 1,622 m/5,322 ft above sea level. Once at this spot (Prati/Auen), you are in the middle of nature. There is lots of forest around, it is hilly, and you have this fantastic view of the Dolomites mountain range, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Hotel Terra The Magic Place’s backstory

Johann Brugger, the grandfather of the sibling pair owning Hotel Terra The Magic Place, Gisela and Heinrich Schneider, laid the foundation stone for this property. He built the adjoining Sarner Ski Hut at the time when the ski trails were still trodden by foot. Resi, his oldest daughter (Gisela and Heinrich’s mother), got to know her future husband while helping out in this ski hut. Together they built up Hotel Auener Hof (former name of Hotel Terra), which was no easy thing as there was no electricity in the beginning.

The Schneider family loved fine food. And so they used to dine at gourmet restaurants when a special occasion arose. In 1998, Gisela and Heinrich took over the family business, when having finished their studies. They were young at the time (23 and 26 years old), and it was no easy undertaking. Their plan was it to transform the Auener Hof into a gourmet hotel. Heinrich, the chef, was very passionate about food. But he did not have much time to do internships and to learn from the masters. So, he went his own way (more about this later on).

In 2008, Heinrich Schneider got his first Michelin star, which was a big motivation for the Schneiders. Together with Gisela, responsible for the front of house, they aimed at new goals. Gisela’s partner, Karl Manfredi, joined them in the business, and they took the first step, the hotel’s renovation. In 2014, they became a member of the Relais & Châteaux hotel group. And in 2017, they got their second Michelin star! Shortly afterwards, the Auener Hof was renamed in Hotel Terra The Magic Place.

Ambiance/Service

When stepping foot in Hotel Terra The Magic Place, you are still under the impression of the somewhat difficult drive on that access road. And you still cannot believe that this place is real, a premium hotel with a two-star Michelin restaurant in this isolated spot! A modernist version of an Alpine chalet awaits you, wood in combination with large window fronts. And it feels boutique here.

Gisela Schneider awaited us behind the counter and ushered us right away to a seating area. Here she served us a welcome drink and home made crackers. And she asked us to fill in a form as to our wishes for breakfast. The offerings sounded promising, and we were already looking forward to this meal (do not miss the warm apple tart)! As to her person, she is friendly and helpful yet I found her to be quite understated. We found her brother, whom we talked to on our departure, to be more open.

Having said, we liked the vibe at the premises, be it at the restaurant or elsewhere. The atmosphere is laid-back and unpretentious. And every time when leaving our room, we encountered Gisela, either on her own or along with her husband and/or her brother. It is clearly a family affair at the Terra. Other staff we met, in particular two servers during dinner and the one or other chef appearing at our table, were all polite and professional.

Rooms/pricing at Hotel Terra The Magic Place

Ten room are at your disposal at this foodie hotel, all of them nicely furnished in a minimalistic style with lots of wood and decorated in natural hues. Out of these three are suites: Panorama Suite (the newest addition, 47 sqm & terrace 19.5 sqm), the Pine Studio Deluxe 46 sqm & terrace 25 sqm) and the Junior Suite (47 sqm & terrace 19.5 sqm).

When it comes to rooms, the Superior Room is actually the same as the Junior Suite, minus the additional room with a sofa bed (38 sqm & terrace 19.5 sqm). Then there is the Design Room (27 sqm) with access to a garden with two sun loungers at your disposal.

All the suites and rooms expect the Design Room category are south-facing, with views of the Dolomites, this stunning range of mountains, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Rates start at 340 € per room and night. In addition, there is a bunch of packages, starting from a one night stay to a five-night one. The least expensive price is 680 € and includes accommodation, breakfast and the Terra Experience Tasting Menu for two.

My husband and I went for the Junior Suite along with the Two-Night Romantic Getaway. Here is what to know about it.

Our choice of room & package: Junior Suite & 2-Night Romantic Getaway

As mentioned, 47 sqm await you plus 19.5 more on the the terrace. When booking, I had not realized that the second room (9 sqm) is not of much use for a couple. This space is not integrated in the main room but a separate bedroom for one to two children. It contains a sofa bed only and feels a bit claustrophobic. We actually entered the room only once, and this when checking it out on arrival. Opting for a Superior Room from the beginning would have been the smart move, as it is actually – as outlined – the same without the additional room.

The main room was spacious enough for the two of us. There is a small seating area plus a tiny desk with chair. What I liked much was the roomy walk-in closet and the generous terrace complete with table, two chairs and two sun loungers.

As to the bathroom, it is not huge yet adequately sized, coming with a large walk-in shower and double sinks.

In terms of package, the 2-Night Romantic Getaway includes two dinners in the Michelin-two star Restaurant Terra. On the first day you get a down to earth five-course dinner, on the second a creative ten-course tasting menu (Terra Experience). Also part of the package is a fabulous breakfast that you receive in a separate room adjoining the dining-room. And much appreciated by us, everything is served, no need to stand up and to help yourself from a buffet

Last but not least, a bottle of sparkling wine and a chocolate bar were laid out in our room on our arrival.

Other facilities/activities Hotel Terra The Magic Place

Apart from the main dining room and the breakfast restaurant there is not much as to public space. Adjoining the reception area is some kind of library/lounge.

And since recently, you find onsite a small but fine wellness area. It is located on the property’s top floor and is only open in the afternoon. There is a jacuzzi with views of the Dolomites mountain range, a Finnish sauna and a herbal steam bath plus a relaxation area. In addition, you can book an array of massages and other treatments. We did not go to the spa so I cannot provide any pictures. Yet it looks promising on the website.

What we did here, and which is THE thing to do here, is hiking. The most popular hike in the area is the one to the Stone Men (see also on the hotel’s website).

My husband and I followed the following trail (outdooractive). However, we did an additional loop to the Kreuzjoch (see my tracked trail, only the one back, on outdooractive). And it is well worth as you have a great panoramic vista from here.

After all these details about staying in style at Hotel Terra The Magic Place, now to what it offers with regard to dining in style. And this is impressive!

Dining in style at Restaurant Terra Sarentino valley

As you know so far, a Michelin two-star dining experience awaits you at Restaurant Terra. Before I dive into it, a few lines about the chef and its cuisine.

Chef/Cuisine

You have already learnt that the chef, Heinrich Schneider, did not do many internships at other restaurants. He does not have a mentor either. Instead, he describes himself as self-taught – although having done an apprenticeship as a chef. Yet, he rather took inspiration from his surroundings than from grand masters. His cuisine’s DNA is all about wild herbs and plants. And he uses those growing around the property, just as his mother did. He collects them himself, and he does this on his own. At some time in the past, he even did a training in this field, to get to know other, lesser known herbs.

As far as other ingredients are concerned, he tries to source locally whenever possible. He wants to offer his guests produce they cannot taste elsewhere. Yet, in case he thinks that for example caviar is necessary for a certain dish, then he does not shy away from using it. Although, he has to buy it from another region or even from abroad.

Dinner experience at Restaurant Terra

As I let you know, my husband and I dined twice at Restaurant Terra, on subsequent days (we had booked the 2-Night Romantic Getaway). So, we had two different experiences, one a bit more grounded, the other sophisticated.

Design

Before describing how it is dining here, some lines to the dining spot’s look. I was astonished to discover that the elegant dining-room is not only airy, but elegant and modern at the same time. You still have to consider we are here up in the mountains, in an off-the-beaten-path place. There are two prominent features that catches your eye. First, there is the suspended, glass-walled wine room above your heads, Gisela Schneider’s empire (she is a sommeliere too).

It is in competition with the huge picture windows providing a stunning view over the mountain world.

In addition, you find here an open kitchen where you can watch the chef working along his team. I have to say I was impressed by Terra’s appearance!

But that was not the only thing that made a lasting impact on us.

Day 1: The Chef’s Childhood Memories

We started our “gourmet dinner marathon” at Hotel Terra The Magic Place with the more down to earth experience. Having said that, it did not lack refinement.

The start made a praline of dried mushroom along with cornflower. From the very first moment, the chef makes clear what his cuisine is about, wild plants and herbs. Next, was the bread, rye and spelt sourdough bread along with local butter and spruce tree shoots oil. When doing research about the chef, I found out that he has an ambivalent relation to bread. He thinks that it is not a necessity when having a tasting meal. This because it can steal your appetite. And consequently, it may rob you out of the fun of fine dining. There is something about that!

We continued with carrot tartar, paired with cress and herbal salsa, followed by buckwheat risotto in unison with mountain cheese. Afterwards we got pasta – of course, we are in Italy. But it was not the usual one, precisely spaghetti made with yeast and egg, which results in a different taste. The accompanying herbs were waldmeister and yarrow.

The main course was braised meat, glazed ox cheeks with peas-mint cream. We ended with amaretti curd cheese dumplings, paired with apricots and basil ice-cream plus some petit fours. And this dish is clearly a reminiscence of South Tyrol’s past as part of Austria.

Day 2: The Terra Nature Experience

The second dinner at Hotel Terra The Magic Place was the turn of the whole shebang! The menu was written down on an overlong piece of paper, quite an event that was! Hence, I will not go into all the details of the meal. I will not always mention it, yet each and every dish contained at least one wild herb and/or plant. And I have to admit, many of them were unknown to me.

We warmed up with a variety of snacks, each of those an artwork in itself. And the whole was accompanied by dry ice mist, which is time and time again quite a sight. Next was a variation of the rainbow trout, followed by a trio of dishes without any apparent connection (at least to me). Among them, liquid cheese gnocchi. Then it was up to another Italian influenced course, a glazed “jumbo” ravioli with fresh herbs. It came with the same bread we had the day before.

The dinner continued with a fish dish, brook trout in burnt milk. Yet another ravioli was served, this time with beetroot and nettles. The last savory course was deer in two preparations, as praline and as saddle.

Ultimately, it was time for desserts. First, there was a white strawberry sphere along with a medley of cow parsley granita and spruce oil stones. The second one was also split in two. There was a cone filled with rye foam and wheat grass on the one hand. On the other hand, a composition made of verbana sorbet, raspberry, yoghurt, thyme and iced milk joined in. A small tea ceremony set the final point, consisting of herbal tea and an assortment of petit-fours.

How was it?

Not every day, you get the chance to dine at one and the same two-star Michelin restaurant two days in a row. To avoid a repetitive experience, it was essential that the two meals were totally different. And Heinrich Schneider managed this task very well. While one meal was rather on the rustic side – yet refined enough for a high-end dining spot – , the other one was culinary fireworks, for both eyes and palate. You well notice the chef’s love for his home, the mountains and their produce. The bounty of nature is really astonishing, all these edible items that are around. And he knows exactly how to incorporate them in his menus to achieve maximum effect.

All the courses we had were immaculately prepared and beautifully arranged. And the sometimes colorful herbs definitely helped to strengthen the impression. My favorite dishes were probably the “jumbo” ravioli and the desserts,

which were balanced tasting experiences. I already said a few words to ambiance and service above. To add to these, both evenings passed seamlessly, with everything perfectly orchestrated.

If I want to picky, then I would point out one thing that did not add up to me. And this is the second course in the menu “The Chef’s Childhood Memories” (first day). I cannot imagine that Heinrich Schneider was served carrot tartare as a child as this dish rather seems to be a “newfangled” one. While this is not utterly relevant, there was some other thing about it. The carrot tartar was the only course I was not a particular fan of. I found it quite heavy and the portion as too sizable. But otherwise, the chef’s performance was convincing. The gourmet dinners “in a double pack” at Hotel Terra The Magic Place delivered what they promised – and we enjoyed it!

Overall Hotel Terra The Magic Place

The total package at Hotel Terra The Magic Place in the remote Sarentino valley high above Bolzano, South Tyrol’s capital is amazing! If you are a nature and fine dining lover likewise, then I strongly recommend looking into this place. In case you like staying in style too plus you are into hiking in the mountains, I cannot think of a better spot than this boutique lodging. A two-star Michelin restaurant plus newly renovated premises await you here in the Sarentino Alps. Furthermore, an engaged and capable sibling pair is in charge here at Hotel Terra The Magic Place. She is the host, and he is the chef.

To top this already astonishing performance, you have the most remarkable view of the Dolomites mountain range, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, from here. Plus, in case you should be into records, Hotel Terra The Magic Place hosts the highest located Michelin star in whole Italy. In addition, the chef has his unique style when it comes to preparing and serving food. Grown up in the mountains and not having done lots of internships at other restaurants, he became THE connoisseur as to wild herbs and plants.

Looking back and forward

The stay at Hotel Terra The Magic Place is part of a mini-series about a trip to northeastern Italy and western Switzerland. It covers four stops in total, two in South Tyrol, one on Lake Garda and one on Lake Geneva. This very post went into the second destination. For the itinerary of this 14-day journey, check out my overview blogpost. Next on my blog you will find out about a four-day stay on Lake Garda, at the fabulous Grand Hotel Fasano in Gardone Riviera.

It is located on the southwestern shore of Italy’s largest lake, near the town of Salò. Expect information about where to stay and dine in style. And the latter concerns all the four restaurants in town that are included in the Michelin Guide.

Date of stay: September 2023

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The post Staying & dining in style at Hotel Terra The Magic Place in the Sarentino valley in South Tyrol, Italy first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Staying & dining in style at Hotel Terra The Magic Place in the Sarentino valley in South Tyrol, Italy appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Hotel The Omnia Zermatt has a noteworthy backstory, but first of all it is a stunning luxury hotel offering a hospitality that is second to none. And although it has more than 15 years under its belt it looks dewy and fresh. Maybe you are prompted to assume that it is one of these typical chalets in the mountains reminding you of the story around Heidi in the Alps. But The Omnia is different. It is a contemporary interpretation of a classic mountain lodge with an interior design inspired by American modernism. Although it looks quite big from the outside, it is actually rather boutique. And its setting on a rock face above Zermatt is ravishing. You can reach the hotel via an elevator that is deep inside the mountain and starts right from the town center.

I hinted about its backstory already, which will make the start of my reporting. But although I personally find it fascinating, this should not hide the fact that Hotel The Omnia Zermatt is first and foremost an absolutely fabulous choice for spending a few days in Zermatt. This also in case you should be a fine dining lover. That is because its restaurant is great in this aspect too. You will find everything what makes this hotel worth going to for demanding travelers right after diving into its eventful past.

Hotel The Omina’s backstory

The Omnia’s pre-story

The Omnia was opened in 2006. And this after it had already been opened six years ago as a different hotel. It had the name “Into the Hotel” and was only in business for seven short weeks! The Into – as it was usually called – was a Gesamtkunstwerk, a total work of art, originated in a joint effort between an artist and a son of a millionaire. The protagonists were Heinz Julen, son of a mountain guide, ski instructor, artist, designer and hotel builder, and Alexander Schaerer, a member of the family owning USM, producing office furniture.

What went wrong with the predecessor hotel Into?

As mentioned, Into was not an ordinary hotel but quite an extraordinary undertaking. Heinz Julen brought in the idea – a habitable sculpture – and the land, Alexander Schaerer the money (from the family business). The hotel got its name from into the rock (its entrance was blasted into the mountain). And the artist realized here some really special things, for instance rooms featured a turntable on which there were the bed and the sofa. In such a manner, guests could view  Zermatt’s iconic mountain, the Matterhorn, anywhere they were. Or there was a retractable whirlpool or a submersible fountain.

After the opening of Into in 2000, it soon became clear that the hotel had construction defects. Opinions differed how bad they were. Heinz Julen thought that the issues could be solved with some adjustments. Family Schaerer considered the situation as much worse. Father and son Schaerer came to the conclusion that Into could not survive the way it was. They voted for a deconstruction of the hotel, which finally took place – after a long back and forth. In between, Alexander Schaerer sued Heinz Julen for 7.7 million SFR of renovation costs. Then it came to an out-of-court settlement in 2004: Heinz Julen gave up his share, Alexander waved his compensations claim.

The rebirth of the hotel in the form of The Omnia

Six years after the hotel opened first in the form of the Into The Omnia opened its doors again for guests. While it still was not the usual hotel, it was for sure not Switzerland’s craziest one any more. This was how journalists called the Into at the time. Most gadgets of the original hotel were removed, for example the high-gloss granite bathtubs.

You cannot know whether the deconstruction of the original hotel was the right thing to do. Maybe the Into could have been saved with a few amendments. Or maybe it really was totally defunct. Be it as it may, the Schaerer family created with The Omnia Zermatt a special hotel that stays in memory. What to expect, find in the following.

Location of Hotel The Omnia Zermatt

I already mentioned it, The Omnia’s location is remarkable, on top of a granite rock face overlooking Zermatt.

You enter the hotel

by passing through a tunnel

and traveling up via a glass elevator. Once inside, you are rising through masses of rocks until you reach the reception level, 45 m (148 ft) above town. While you feel here being far away from the hustle and bustle of Zermatt’s Bahnhofstrasse, you are actually only a lift ride away from it.

You reach the hotel in about seven minutes by foot from the train station – where you also find the bottom station of the Gornergrat railway in its immediate vicinity. Alternatively, you may ask the staff at Hotel  The Omnia Zermatt to get you at the station with an electric vehicle (Zermatt has always been car-free).

Ambiance/Staff at Hotel The Omnia Zermatt

The Omnia could not be further away from being one of these sometimes rather kitschy wooden chalet hotels found in the Alps. Instead, it is a contemporarily styled mountain lodge with smart and sophisticated furnishings. The interior design is the result of Ali Tayar’s work, a New York architect with Turkish roots. It is inspired by American modernism and has a warm feel as well as a hand crafted aesthetics. You find here lots of grey granite and white oak. Everything is about regional materials and furniture made by local craftsmen.

And the staff suits the hotel’s appearance. When my husband and I rode up the elevator on our arrival, we happened to be together with another arriving couple. Once the lift doors opened, two reception employees stood ready to welcome us separately. We were ushered to a seating area and were asked what kind of drink would suit us. Then they laid the glasses accompanied by a variety of snacks out on the table before us. We were even asked whether our drinks should be topped up. What a treat! Not long, and the general manager, Christian Eckert, appeared and warmly greeted us.

And so it proceeded in this positive fashion throughout our stay. Every staff member we were in touch with, had this gracious and obliging mindset. I also want to highlight the service at the restaurant, which was flawless. We especially appreciated dealing with Timo Muchenberger, the F&B manager, who unfortunately will leave at the end of this summer season.

Rooms/Pricing

On site you find 30 guest rooms, 12 of them are suites, and the do not have numbers but letters. As to the former ones, you can opt for either a Double (37 sqm) with view of Zermatt or the rock side, a Double Mountain Bath (37 sqm) facing the cliff, a Double Deluxe (50 sqm) with view of Zermatt or Matterhorn or a Queen (24 sqm) going to the rock side. When it comes to suites, there is the Corner Suite (68 sqm) facing Zermatt, the Village Suite (72 sqm) with the same view, the Matterhorn Suite (70 sqm), the Tower Suite (90 sqm) with Matterhorn view and the Roof Suite (110 sqm) with Matterhorn view too plus a sauna.

Room rates start at about 440 SFR/US$ per night including breakfast in the shoulder/low season. When lodging here, A nice feature awaits you in the rooms. And this is a special welcome in the form of a crystal carafe with a gold-colored Bourbon to help yourself at your preference. It is refilled daily, and – as my husband assured me – it is a fine one!

My husband and I chose to stay at a Corner Suite. Find some details in the lines to come.

Corner Suite: our choice of room at Hotel The Omnia Zermatt

I was overwhelmed with all the space at our disposal in the Corner Suite. There is a spacious living room coming with a large seating area, a large table, some USM furniture (the owner family “sends regards”) and a balcony facing a pathway leading up the mountain along a quiet neighborhood.

The bedroom is quite roomy too with two balconies, one with view of the before mentioned pathway, the other towards Zermatt. There is also a comfortable chaise lounge to enjoy the latter view.

And for one of these rare occasions, my husband and I had separate bathrooms. I opted for the one with the tub and a single basin,

my husband had to be content with the other, featuring a small shower and a single sink.

The one thing of the accommodation we were not that in favor was the fact that it was about on the same level as the pathway I already wrote about. Throughout the day, there were the one or other hikers passing, being able to catch a glimpse of the inside of our room. In the worst case, they would even have been able to intrude without difficulties. But I am quite sure that this is not very likely to happen. Anyway, ask about staying a story higher (I am not sure whether there are more than two of these rooms).

As to the room rate, it costed 700 SFR/US$ per night including breakfast in the summer peak. But be aware of the fact that rates in winter are higher. Expect to pay about 1,000 SFR/US$ for this room category in the high season.

Restaurant The Omnia

UPDATE: Leandro Sutter as new restaurant manager as from winter season 2023/24 & André Kneubühler as new chef as from summer season 2024

The restaurant is the place for breakfast and for dinner. For the latter, it is open every day. Monday and Tuesday are days when you can only book a table as hotel guest. I was very fond of the delectable breakfasts we got here. Weather permitting, you can have them also on the terrace.

Setting

As for dinner, we only happened to have one here here, yet it was fabulous! I very much liked the setting at The Omnia Restaurant. It is a large room but there are not that many tables in it. The space is divided into four different sections.

First, you find here the “regular” tables, long wooden ones with either six seats or twice two seats. Personally, I was not that in favor of the latter arrangement as you are quite close to another guest couple in such a case. Given the ample space in this room, I found that a bit suboptimal, but I am sure for most people it would be no issue. Anyway, second, there is a corner where there is an overlong, high table where dining feels a bit more casual. Third, they have added a seating area where you could either wait for you dinner companions or  have a pre dinner drink. And last there is a somewhat hidden round table in an alcove.

Food concept

When it comes to food, dining is a lavishing affair at Hotel The Omnia Zermatt. Chef Tony Rudolf has been on the helm here since October 2021 (before he was sous chef, and this since June 2017). The restaurant is Michelin listed and has 16 points at Gault Millau. The restaurant manager is the already mentioned Timo Muchenberger who does a great job in this position. With regard to food concept, they offer seasonal premium produce of alpine provenance, based on a vegetarian concept. Yet it is far from being strict in this regard as you can complement the dishes with fish or meat.

You can make your selection from à la carte menu or opt for the tasting menu (four courses, vegetarian 110 SFR/US$, with meat 135 SFR/US$). When going for à la carte, you have the following offer: five starters (19 to 26 SFR/US$), five mains (36 to 28 SFR/US$) and quite a number of complements (18 to 28 SFR/US$) to add to your choices. If you are not sure how to combine, the service team is happy to assist you. In terms of desserts, there are three options (25 SFR/US$) plus ice cream or sorbet (8 SFR/US$ per scoop) and cheese (17/28 SFR/US$). Quite original, this concept with vegetarian food plus fish or meat complements!

Alternatively, you can order The Omnia Classics. These are either The Omnia Wiener Schnitzel (58 SFR/US$) or The Omnia Raclette (one piece 13 SFR/US$ or “bottomless style” 53 SFR/US$).

How was it?

My husband and I decided to go for the Chef’s Choice four-course menu, and that was a great thing to do! We had the wine pairing (89 SFR/US$ per person) as well, which complimented the food just perfect.

We started with an amuse bouche made of joghurt and beetroot and continued with a mix between Vitello Tonnato and tomato mozzarella salad. Next was a saffron risotto enhanced with zander fish. The main course was lamb with a braised carrot plus buckwheat.

The meal finished with Felchlin Edelweiss 36% chocolate mousse accompanied by strawberry espuma, yoghurt and granola. The very end was a macaron with thyme.

I was delighted by the idea to combine vegetarian food with fish and meat. In such a way, the sides become to main players, which I found a real benefit. This because it feels like having the best of two worlds (veggie and fish/meat). And I have to admit that the chef knew very well what food items go well together. And the wine pairing, selected and presented by Tim Muchenberger, was exquisite!

Other facilities at Hotel The Omnia Zermatt

Lounge Bar & Sun Terrace

If you care for small bites and/or drinks, the Lounge Bar

and the Sun Terrace

are at your disposal. The former does this from 10 am to 11 pm, the latter from 11 am to 6 pm (whether permitting). Integrated in the Lounge Bar is also a library where you find among other things hundreds of art publications. And amidst books and magazines, you also encounter a large selection of whiskeys.

As to the terrace, you have a view of the Matterhorn

plus of the town from high above.

Spa

Hotel guests in search of wellness find here a combined indoor/outdoor pool

with a separate outdoor whirlpool. When sitting in the latter, you have not only a view of the Matterhorn but also of the town of Zermatt.

In addition, there is a rather small space with saunas as well as floral and herbal steam rooms. The wellness center also features a gym with Technogym equipment and two separate units for massage, yoga and pilates.

Overall Hotel The Omnia Zermatt & general Zermatt information

It has been quite a long time since I was so happy with a hotel in Switzerland on a first stay. This is due not only to its great premises – especially guest rooms and dining room in a contemporary version of a classic mountain lodge -, but also to the most perfect hospitality. The general manager, Christian Eckert, does a terrific job when it comes to dealing with guests. His credo is: welcoming guests is not a profession, it is a passion. And he really lives by it. In addition, he was able to bring its 50-odd staff members to do so in the same excellent manner. He even was awarded Hotelier of the Year 2023 by Hotellerie Suisse, the leading hotel industry organization.

In case you look for further information on Zermatt, I also made some other posts about it in the past, especially when it comes to skiing.

I have a recommendation for you if you care for a luxury ski-in/ski-out hotel in this alpine town.

Furthermore, I also put together a guide on where to eat in style on the slopes in Zermatt.

Date of stay: August 2023

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The Engadine is without doubt one of the country’s most desirable vacation destination in the Alps. You find here – especially in the upper part – not only a breathtaking mountain panorama but also a lake landscape that leaves you in awe. You might have also heard of Saint Moritz, the most known town here. While it is no particular beauty, it is a glamorous and fashionable place, especially in wintertime. Then the rich and beautiful meet here. But that was not what drew my husband and me to this high Alpine valley. Instead, we were looking for some of the best winter walks that the Upper Engadine has to offer. And we succeeded! So I am now in the position to propose two great winter walks to you.

General

The Engadine is long, with lots of small towns along the route. You distinguish between the Upper and the Lower Engadine. The latter begins in Brail coming from Saint Moritz. It is narrower and without the big lakes of the Upper Engadine. I am talking here only about the Upper Engadine. Some bits of information about the Lower Engadine can be found in a former post of mine.

My husband and I stayed at different places in the past, mainly in the Upper Engadine. Our destination for winter vacations in the last two years was Zuoz, a marvelous historic village. Here we resided at the four-class superior Hotel Castell (see my post).

Not long ago, we also spent some time in Brail, in summer. This is the first village in the Lower Engadine after leaving the Upper Engadine. At the time, we chose Switzerland’s smallest five-star hotel for a short stay, IN LAIN Hotel Cadonau (my post). Quite some time ago, my husband and I also were in Pontresina where we lodged at the five-star Grand Hotel Kronenhof (see my review).

But most of times when heading to the Engadine, we opted for Sils Maria, a placid small town not far from Saint Moritz. And we did so in summer and winter. As to the hotel of our choice, it was always the grand old dame of the Waldhaus, towering high above Sils Maria amidst a larch forest. This was not any different on our recent Engadine stay. If you are looking for understated and relaxed luxury, then this five-star hotel is your best bet in the area. It has been family owned and managed since 1908, and it has been regularly updated over time. Check out my last post, where I went into this wonderful hotel in greater depth. In case you do not want to read everything, open the contents section and click only at the paragraphs you are interested in.

2 top winter walks around Sils Maria/Engadine

As mentioned, the Engadine is large, and you could easily find winter walks in the area that would keep you busy for weeks if not months. My husband and I wanted to do winter walks starting right from Hotel Waldhaus Sils Maria, where we were staying.

And there is quite a choice in this respect. We opted for two classics, albeit both a bit in a varied version. The first went into the splendid Fex Valley (Val Fex), the second along Lake Sils to Maloja and further to a small mountain lake. And these two trails are among the nicest ones we have ever done when it comes to winter walking! Here are the details.

1. Winter walk Engadine: Fex Valley (Val Fex) round trip including out to Alp Muot Selvas & back

based on 2 tours: Fex Valley round trip (out: Sils Maria – Hotel Waldhaus – Fex Crasta / back: Fex Crasta – canyon path – Sils Maria) & Sils to Fex Valley (from Fex Crasta out & back) / 7.4 km (4.6 mi) out to Alp Muot Selvas from Hotel Waldhaus, 294 m (965 ft) up, 72 m (236 ft) down, about a 4-hour walk in total

The walk starts either in Sils Maria’s center or at Hotel Waldhaus (if you should be a guest here). This hotel is ideally located right at the beginning of the Fex Valley (Val Fex).  When having passed the hotel, turn right from the tarmac road as soon as you have the chance. Then the trail leads along Lake Sils, high above on a hill – with great views of this –

for a while. It may be not so easy to find your way as there is a variety of paths amidst a beautiful larch forest. Just make sure that you do not walk down hill towards the lake. That is how it should work.

After some time, the path turns left and once you have crossed a tarmac road – and having left the forest behind you – you can be sure to be on your way.

Later on, there is a signpost for a viewpoint (Muotto da Güvè). My husband and did not do this as the weather was not good enough. Instead we went on towards Fex Crasta, a hamlet. Up to this point, follow the first tour (Fex Valley round trip, see above). From here, change to the other one (Sils to Fex Valley, see above).

Either make a short stop to have a look at the hamlet of Fex Crasta – do not miss the church –

or continue your way to Alp Muot Selvas, at the back of the Lex Valley. When doing the latter, you can enjoy great views of this Alpine valley along the route.

In our case, the weather got better and better, and so the vistas that constantly came at us! When having reached Fex Mountain Hotel & Restaurant, go further. After crossing the Fedacla river, the trail ascends a bit. After a while, you catch sight of the Alp Muot Selves,

an ideal place for a rest

before heading back. Up to here, we needed two and a quarter of an hour.

On your return way, walk until you get to Fex Crasta again. From here, you change to the other walk (Fex Valley round trip) and make your way back to Sils Maria’s center via the Schluchtweg (canyon path)

passing Fex Platta.

My husband and I got back to Hotel Waldhaus after a four-hour walk.

2. Winter walk Engadine: lakeside path along Lake Sils to Maloja & out to Lake Cavloc & back to Maloja

map of the area / Sils Maria – Maloja – Lake Cavloc – Maloja – bus to Sils Maria /10.5 km (6.5 mi) out to Alp da Cavloc from Hotel Waldhaus, 235 m (771 ft)  up, 168 m (551 ft) down, about a 3 3/4 -hour walk in total

Either start your walk from Sils Maria’s center or from Hotel Waldhaus (as we did). You can choose among two trails to Maloja. If Lake Sils is completely frozen, you can walk across the lake (6 km/3.7 mi). On our stay, this was not possible, so we took the lakeside path (7 km/4.3 mi). Along Lake Sils, you have great views of lake and mountains.

About half way to Maloja, you get to the pretty hamlet of Isola.

After about one hour and three quarters you reach the town of Maloja.

When reaching the town’s outskirts, you catch sight of a magnificent building right away. It is the Maloja Palace.

At one time in the past, it was one of the biggest and most modern hotels worldwide. Nowadays, only a small part of it is still used as a hotel. At this point, you have to decide whether to go to town for a pit stop first (a good address for this is Hotel Restaurant Schweizerhaus) or whether to immediately tackle the second part of your walk. In the first case, head towards the main road. In the latter case, go in the direction of the cemetery (Cimitero Maloja). From here, there is a trail signposted to Lake Cavloc (Lägh da Cavloc).

Allow about one hour to reach this picturesque mountain lake. First, you walk through a Maloja neighborhood before coming to a beginner’s ski lift.

Go further, pass the Salecina Vacation Center and cross the Orlegna river. Afterwards, there is a path crossing. Turn right into a wide path

that brings you up to Lake Cavloc through a forested area. Alternatively, turn left into a steep trail that merges with the wider path at some point (we did the latter on the way up and the former on the way down).

Once arrived at Lake Cavloc, my husband and I walked further alongside the lake, which is a nice thing to do. At a beautiful spot, there is Restaurant Cavloccio (closed in winter).

We continued until Alp da Cavloc

before returning to Maloja.

From here, you can take the bus (Maloja, Posta) to get back to Sils Maria. In total, we needed three hours and three quarters to finish the whole walk.

Date of visit: February 2023

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Hotel Waldhaus in Sils Maria, in the beautiful Engadine in the Swiss Alps, is a truly unique place. There is no other property in Switzerland of this kind. It has been family owned since it was constructed 115 years ago. There is a spirit of continuity here that is second to none. The Waldhaus is not just another luxury hotel, but it has a soul of its own. It may be best described with a list of characteristics: it is unpretentious, understated, full of character, affine to culture, luxurious but not too much so, affordable, near to Saint Moritz yet so far away from it. There would be more, but I do not want to try your patience. I will do my best to bring Hotel Waldhaus closer to you in the next paragraphs.

I start with detailing my connection to this hotel and letting you know more about the family that stands behind it. If you should wonder about where I got all this data, they published a book on the occasion of the Waldhaus’ 111th birthday in 2019 (also available in English). After doing this, I will go into the hotel’s features.

My personal relation to Waldhaus Sils

While my husband and I always very much liked our stays at the Waldhaus Sils, we have not been here for 16 years! Our (too long) absence did not have anything to do with the hotel but it was due to other factors. Instead of going to the Upper Engadine, which we adore, we rather went to Davos, another resort town in the Swiss Alps. This because we had business friends who had bought a hotel and personal friends who had acquired a vacation apartment here. And both happened at about the same time. Yet, in the meantime the situation has changed somehow, and we are free again to go wherever we please!

And so we decided to return to Hotel Waldhaus Sils Maria to spend a few days for skiing and winter walking (my next post will describe two great winter walks). In the past, we had come here rather in summertime for walking/hiking.

Our first stay dates back to 2000. Afterwards, we returned six times more. And the last stay before our current one was in 2007. We always went as a family, with our son, when he was a child and a young teen. Our recent visit was actually the first where my husband and I went on our own. But we have already decided to come back with our son and his girlfriend when the occasion arises!

And how was our coming back? Walking through the Waldhaus’ entrance door was like we had never been away. But this does not mean that the time has stood still here. The hotel has moved on – there were some remodeling projects – yet without losing its original flair. In the meantime, a new generation – the fifth – has taken over yet the old one is still present. The same is true for quite a number of staff. Above all, that is about the Maître d’Hôtel (the restaurant manager), Walter Nana, who has been working here for 38 years! And we were warmly welcomed back!

Hotel Waldhaus Sils’ backstory

Generation I (about 1908 – 1918)

Waldhaus Sils was opened in 1908, and this after the relatively short construction time of two years. Josef Giger was the founder, who used to manage Hotel Hof Ragaz in Bad Ragaz in eastern Switzerland, and he managed it together with his wife Amalie (generation I). After long years in the upscale hospitality business, Josef Giger knew exactly what he wanted his hotel to be. It should be beautiful and grand yet at the same time “practical and solid”. What he did not have in mind, was some kind of palatial building.

The result is some kind of a fortress. While it majestically sits on a hill above the village of Sils Maria, surrounded by forest, it is no palace. However, it is far from being modest. It definitely wants to impress. From its style, you can best describe it as historicist. There is also no true front and back. As to the number of rooms, there are 140 of them today, about the same as in 1908.

Generation II (about 1918 – 1960)

After the death of Josef and Amalie Giger, one of her daughters, Helen, took over with her husband, Oskar Kienberger. Funnily enough, this is the son of one of Josef Giger’s peers – he used to manage Hotel Quellenhof in Bad Ragaz at the same time as he was in charge of the neighboring Hotel Hof Ragaz.

They went through no easy time, the global economic crisis hit the Waldhaus hard. And the second world war that followed was not any different. But shortly after the end of the war, there was more or less business as usual at the Waldhaus. As the zeitgeist demanded, all the hotel rooms became equipped with bathrooms. The rapid spread of the automobile made it also necessary to construct garage buildings.

Generation III (about 1960 – 1987)

Rolf, one of Helen and Oskar Kienberger’s sons, soon became the designated successor of the family business, and this together with his wife Rita. He was responsible for the reintroduction of the winter season at the Waldhaus. At the beginning, his father opposed – he had made some bad experiences in this respect – , but in the end this decision turned out to be the right one. The overnight stays increased significantly afterwards.

Under Rolf’s helm, an indoor swimming pool started its operation (1969/70). Also the dining-room was updated and enlarged (1978). Then the “Palais du Garage” was opened too (1982/83). It contained not only an underground car park but also tennis courts, indoor and outdoor. And the first kitchen renovation took place (1977).

Generation IV (about 1987 – 2010)

After the era Rolf Kienberger, a new name appeared, Felix Dietrich. Rolf was his godfather and soon discovered his suitability for a job in the hospitality field. And when this talented young man fell in love with Maria, one of Rolf and Rita’s daughters, all the better. After their wedding, they worked at the side of Rita and Rolf Kienberger until they took over completely in 1987. Two years afterwards, they were joined by Urs Kienberger, Maria’s brother, who had pursed a career as economist before.

And the success story of Waldhaus went on under the lead of this trio. They showed engagement in different areas. Among others, culture became more important (lectures, concerts, book presentations, excursions, theater performances). While pursuing such activities, the hotel directors always made sure that they complement the hotel’s everyday life. In no way, culture was meant to be in the foreground.

With the fourth generation on the helm, the kitchen was once again overhauled, along with some neighboring spaces (2008, costs of 10 million SFR/US$). This was also the point of time when a chef’s table was introduced. Furthermore, the hotel lounge was enlarged by 6 m (20 ft) into the forest (1991) and a second underground car park was built (1999).

Generation V (from 2010)

While Felix Dietrich stepped back in 2010 at the age of 60, Urs Kienberger had not been ready yet (two years younger). He wanted to stand by the next generation for some more time (2014). The new leading force as from 2010 consisted of Maria and Felix Dietrich’s two sons. Claudio (born 1977) is responsible for the operational and administrative management, Patrick (born 1980) for guest relations.

Under the lead of Urs Kienberger, the smokers were “relocated” from the bar into a newly constructed smoking room. This change made it necessary to move the à la carte restaurant Arvenstube towards east (2011/12, more than 2.5 million SFR/US$). The youngsters on their part tackled the major project of a spa, which was a heathen task. This because most of this new building is underneath the ground (2016/17, costs of a little less than 11 million SFR/US$).

Otherwise, Claudio and Patrick do their best to continue the work of their ancestors, and as my husband and I thought, very successfully. As to their appearance and personality, Claudio reminds us of his father. With regard to Patrick, he definitely has quite some genes from the Kienberger’s side.

Location of Hotel Waldhaus Sils Maria Engadine

I have already mentioned it, Hotel Waldhaus is located in Sils Maria. This is a small town on Lake Sils in the Upper Engadine, a marvel long high Alpine valley in eastern Switzerland. The accommodation towers high above Sils at the start of the Fex Valley, a beautiful side valley, which is a mostly car-free zone (if you like winter walking, one of the two walks in my next post heads here). The Waldhaus is amidst a larch forest, and you enjoy unobscured views of the surroundings from here.

The most desirable view is probably to the west towards Lake Sils and Maloja.

Yet also the one to the south (Fex Valley) is nice. I personally like to overlook Lake Silvaplana and Sils (east side).

The latter is also in the direction where Saint Moritz lies, from which you probably have already heard about. This glamorous resort town has the reputation of being one of those places (see my post) where the rich and famous like to reside. While it definitely is no beauty, you find here lots of renowned hotels – which I find overpriced in the winter season – , chic shops and restaurants. When staying at Hotel Waldhaus, you are close to Saint Moritz (about 10 km/6.2 mi away), yet this fashionable spot seems like a world apart from the tranquility in Sils.

Ambiance at Hotel Waldhaus Sils Maria Engadine

In case you are fond of hotels full of people who display their wealth and put on an ostentatious show of their possessions, then you are probably better off in one of the Saint Moritz properties. In contrast, if you are more into understated luxury, then you might be in the right place at the Waldhaus. It is not so that you find here not all the amenities of a five-star accommodation yet it is neither pompous nor glamorous.

Hotel Waldhaus was named “Historic Hotel of the Year” in 2005 by ICOMOS, the International Council on Monuments and Sites. And again in 2015, it got a special anniversary award “20 years of Historic Hotels of the Year”. And they know here how to preserve the old without being old-fashioned. Renewal projects are carried out when the time is ripe. Yet they are usually no fast starters. As a family business, it takes consideration to realize huge renovation plans.

I already let you know that culture is important at the Waldhaus. There are not only a number of activities in this respect – all with the intent of complementing the every day life at the hotel – , you find here also a quite a number of guests with an affinity for the fine arts. The hotel also seems to attract people that work in this scene. On our stays, we have encountered several “celebrities”. When visiting a short time ago, we happened to notice one of the most notable Swiss architects among the guests.

Staff at Hotel Waldhaus Sils Maria Engadine

Not only there are lots of returning guests at the Waldhaus (70% and more), also the staff shows great loyalty to this hotel. After 16 years of not being here, my husband and I still recognized some employees at the restaurant on our recent stay. This is true not only for Walter Nana, the restaurant manager, as mentioned above, but for others too. For example, Oscar Comalli, the sommelier, has been working here since 1992.

There is also longtime staff in the kitchen. The chef patissier, Renato Pellegrinelli, has been occupied at the Waldhaus for more than 30 years!

If you wonder about the number of employees, there are about 170 of them. They are responsible for about 240 guests at full occupancy. As to the staff’s attitude, all of them are hospitable and friendly. You get the feeling that their service mentality is genuine. Their friendliness does not come across as fake. And a personal touch is for sure at most times.

Rooms/Pricing

Earlier on, I already informed on the guest rooms’ views. From out of the 140 rooms, you can make your choice of a variety of categories. For the two of you – there is also a large selection for solo travelers – , you can decide on four options: 2a* Junior Suite, 2a Best, 2b Standard and 2c Small. In addition, there are three kind of suites available. In case you care for views towards south and west, there is an additional charge.

As to the seasons, you find here four different ones. PEAK is around Christmas and New Year as well as from about the second week of February through end of February. In the remaining winter times, you pay either the HIGH rates or minus 10% (shoulder season) or 20% (low season). In summer, there is no PEAK and only one HIGH season, and this from about the last week of July to mid-August. The rest is available with a discount of 10% or 20% as above.

The rates start at 485 SFR/US$ (two persons, 2c Small, minus 20% low season, 2022/2023). They include half board. In case you only want to have breakfast you pay 50 SFR/US$ less per person. And three styles of rooms are at your disposal: classic, modern and nostalgic. The latter rooms come with the original restored furnishings from 1908. I consider this pricing as reasonable, especially compared to the one in Saint Moritz, which is – I repeat myself – over the top, especially in wintertime.

2a* Junior-Suite: our choice of room at Hotel Waldhaus Sils Maria

As my husband and I prefer to have enough space, we went for the biggest double room, the 2a* Junior Suite. This category offers a surface of 40 to 50 sqm. There is a large bathroom with double sinks plus a tub and a separate shower.

And there is a comfortable seating area too. In our case, the room also featured a spacious separate toilet with a generous washbasin.

We had not asked for a preferred view towards south or west. So, we overlooked the east towards Lake Silvaplana, which is in fact my favorite one.

While we were in favor of our room – we opted for a modern one – , I was not especially fond of the carpet (“dirty” hue, which did not fit the color concept of the furnishings). And I would have preferred a sofa and an armchair instead of two armchairs. But those were little things. Overall, we were satisfied and felt at ease in our room.

Other facilities/Services at Hotel Waldhaus Sils

Waldhaus Sils has all the offerings you expect from a five-star property plus some more which you seldom find at other comparable houses. I am talking in this context about cultural activities in particular (see below). Another interesting fact about this hotel is that a full spa has been only available since the winter season 2016/17. Details follow in the respective section. Last but not least, there has been a new restaurant onsite since the winter season 2020/21, the GIGERS. More about it you find just afterwards.

Restaurants

There are four dining-spots available, from which three are possible to book also for outside guests (all but the Waldhaus Dining-Room). In case you care for smaller bites only, you can have them at the Bar and at this wonderful Great Lounge.

In addition, you find here also a terrace for warmer days. Executive Chef at the Waldhaus kitchen is Gero Porstein, who has been in charge in this function since 2018. Before, he was Executive Chef at the Carlton Hotel Saint Moritz (Restaurant Vittorio) and Hotel Eden Roc in Ascona (Restaurant Marina).

GIGERS

I start with the GIGERS as I have just mentioned it above. It is named after the founder of the Waldhaus, Josef Giger. You find it at the spot where the third tennis court used to be, across the street just adjoining the separate building (“Palais du Garage”). The nickname for it is “fondue restaurant”. Yet of course you get here more than that, yet basically expect comfort food here. GIGERS is housed in a modern building, a wooden quadrangle, at the edge of the larch forest. As I have not eaten here, I cannot comment how it is.

Arvenstube

The second restaurant that I do not now from personal experience is the Arvenstube (Stübli made of Swiss pine wood). It is about the à la carte dining-spot where they serve modern Swiss cuisine, based on traditional recipes, with local produce. If you wonder why I have not yet dined here nor at GIGERS, the answer can be found in the next restaurant that I am going into.

Waldhaus Dining-Room

This is the Waldhaus Dining-Room, precisely the dining-rooms.

Here you have dinner in case you are on half board, which most of the guests staying at the Waldhaus are. It is always a festive and at the same time a relaxed affair, taking in the meals at these elegant, high-ceiling dining-rooms. For my husband and me it is a much loved “ritual” which we do not want to miss, unless it is for the Chef’s Table (see below). On offer here  are three menus, which change daily, and from which you can order four to five courses. The food is sophisticated yet without chichi, made of high-quality produce, locally sourced whenever possible.

Chef’s Table

A fourth option is the mentioned Chef’s Table. It is available usually on Mondays or on request. And it is really worth booking if you are a wine lover and interested in witnessing the hustle and bustle of a large hotel cuisine.

The premises are quite a sight too: huge, high-ceilings and high windows.

And you are very close to all the happenings in here when seated at the long table by the windows. Before, you have an aperitif in the well-stocked wine cellar,

where you are part of choosing the today’s wines. And they are not stingy in this respect!

This experience (five courses including all drinks), which I strongly recommend, costs 265 SFR/US$ for non-Waldhaus guests and 195 SFR/US$ for Waldhaus guests (145 SFR/US$ if you are on half board).

Spa

I have already written a few word about the new spa, significantly expanded a few years ago. It now consists of 1,500 sqm of wellbeing, between water and the surrounding larch forest. The architect team of Miller & Maranta created a modern building that seamlessly mergers with the surroundings. And the existing indoor pool was cleverly included into the construction. There is also a fitness room, with fitness equipment by Technogym. The spa is under the management of a family member, Carla Lehner-Dietrich, from the fifth generation.

On the premises, you find a Finnish and a bio sauna along with steam baths, relaxation rooms, plunge and Kneipp pools as well as Swiss pine and larch relaxation pools. I am not much of a spa goer, but I really enjoyed the later two, which are beneficial after a long skiing or hiking day. And I found that they were appropriate from their size too.

Culture/Events

I already let you know about the hotel’s affinity to culture. For every guest to see, there is the house orchestra. It is a resident trio who plays salon music. And this in the great lounge during tea time and in the evening at the bar. While I find the former a good thing, I am not a particular fan of the latter. At a late hour, they often tend to play light music from days long gone by, which I personally find a bit out of place. But of course, this is a matter of taste.

Furthermore, the Waldhaus hosts and organizes numerous cultural events. Readings and concerts regularly take place here. A highlight is “Resonanzen” (“resonances”), an international cultural festival in September. Here you enjoy first-rate chamber music, readings and lectures.

Overall Hotel Waldhaus Sils Engadine

If you want to spend a few days in the splendid Upper Engadine in the eastern Swiss Alps and care for subdued and laid-back luxury, there is in my opinion no better option in the Saint Moritz area than Hotel Waldhaus Sils. You are close to the  glamorous vacation resort of Saint Moritz but far enough from its hustle and bustle. Here in beautiful natural surroundings above the village of Sils Maria you are more in for tranquility and low-keyness. While the Waldhaus is absolutely suitable for the luxury-minded traveler, it does not feel flashy. In addition, the hotel is relatively affordable and its clientele is more on the distinguished side. Plus, this lodging has been family owned and managed since 1908. And although the Waldhaus is a grand old dame, all the necessary renewals have been done!

What is next?

As we last visited Hotel Waldhaus Sils Engadine in wintertime, my husband and did activities like skiing and winter walking/hiking. And we did two truly beautiful walks/hikes that started right from this hotel. My next post will be about those. Come back and have a look if you are into this kind of activity!  I must claim that these two walks/hikes are the best I have ever done in this respect!

Last stay: February 2023

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I just wanted to let you know that I have updated my Switzerland directories for traveling and dining in style for 2023! There are the four of them. The first two are about where to go in my lovely home country. You find not only a grand tour of Switzerland but also an overview of premium destinations for the discerning traveler. Furthermore, I inform on where to stay and where to dine in style while traveling along the grand tour through this Alpine nation.

Here are the details:

1. Guide to visiting Switzerland
2. Premium destinations in Switzerland
3. Guide to luxury hotels in Switzerland, part one – core and west
4. Guide to luxury hotels in Switzerland, part two – Alps and east
5. Directory to fine dining in Switzerland, part one – core and west
6. Directory to fine dining in Switzerland, part two – Alps and east

I would like to highlight in particular my advice to foodies spots in Switzerland (5. and 6.).

It is based on dining directories just as the Michelin Guide and the Gault Millau Guide. And whenever they publish a new edition I amend my articles accordingly. But of course my personal opinions also play a role when creating them.

One more remark to end this short blogpost about my freshly updated Switzerland dine and travel in style guides. It is about how to use them. In case you do not want to read them from A to Z – which I would perfectly understand as they are quite long – , then proceed as follows. If you are only interested in a specific place, go to the contents section and click at “show”. Go to the spot of your choice and only read the correspondent paragraph!

Happy traveling and dining to all of you in 2023! And maybe let me know what you think about my directories.

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The post My Switzerland travel & dine in style directories 2023 appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

The news about The Chedi Andermatt Hotel coming to a fairly untouched village in the Swiss Alps was as a total surprise! Without exaggeration, almost everyone familiar with the business was astonished to hear that Andermatt should get an ultra-luxury hotel. But never mind, this announcement of Samih Sawiris, the investor, was good news! Eight years afterwards, The Chedi opened its doors in late 2013. And what you can see, is impressive! It is neither an Alpine chalet building nor a modern construction. Instead Alpine chic goes hand in hand with Asian influences.

While I followed the developments around The Chedi Andermatt, it took my husband and me another eight years until staying here. And that is not without reason! In winter, we considered Andermatt’s skiing infrastructure as insufficient. In summer, we found that there are more appealing places to go in view of the rather harsh climate here. And most important, the hotel’s pricing is quite steep.

In the meantime, many things changed. First, the ski resort developed into a first-rate one. Second, it became a year-round destination thank to its golf-course, which seems to be state-of-the-art – I am not a golfer. And third, we came upon a special two-day offer including a dinner with wines for the summer season. So, we gave it a try.

About Sawiris’ one billion investment in Andermatt

After long being a staging post at Switzerland’s most important north-south route, Andermatt fell into a fairy tale sleep. And this with the opening of the Gotthard Road Tunnel in 1980. The Alpine village has found itself bypassed ever since. Two decades later, rescue came into the form of Samih Sawiris, an Egyptian businessman and billionaire. He promised to turn the sleepy ski village into an ultra-luxury ski destination. And he kept his word. At least, he laid the foundation for success.

Andermatt, blessed with lots of austere mountain appeal, is back on the touristic map. It started with the 300 million SFR/US$ construction of The Chedi Hotel and Residences. In late 2013, the hotel part with 123 rooms opened. Other buildings, convention facilities, a swimming hall and a 18-hole golf course followed. Once the project is finished, there shall be 6 hotels, 490 apartments in 42 buildings, about 20 chalets and a concert hall. In the meantime, the four-star Radisson Blue Hotel Reussen has opened its doors, too (end of 2018, 244 rooms).

Furthermore, the ski region was further developed. The Andermatt and the neighboring Sedrun ski area merged and became the SkiArena Andermatt-Sedrun. Overall, Andermatt’s touristic basic infrastructure is now available. Now, it is important to fill them with life, meaning with lots of paying customers!

I have been curious about the Sawiris’ signature project, the ultra-luxury The Chedi Hotel, ever since it has opened in 2013. Various reasons have hindered my husband and me from staying here so far, but the time has now come! And this on our early summer vacations (see overview article), as stopover on our way to the Ticino, so to say. Here we spent the bigger part of our trip at the fabulous Castello del Sole in Ascona (my blogpost).

Staying at The Chedi Andermatt, an ultra-luxury Alpine resort

Location

Andermatt is an Alpine village at the foot of the Gotthard Pass in the Swiss canton of Uri. You can reach it from Zurich in about one and a quarter of an hour by car. By train you need a bit more than two hours. The climate here is rather harsh, with lots of snow in winter and rain at other times of the year.

Before Sawiris’ mega development, Andermatt was a rather sleepy village with an outdated skiing infrastructure. I explained before how this changed the place. However, Andermatt (1,600 inhabitants) still has an authentic feel, with quite a nice historic center. By no means, it has become a glamorous ski resort just as Saint Moritz or Gstaad. The surroundings exude an austere mountain appeal, resulting from those bare slopes.

The Chedi Andermatt is nestled adjacent the center of the village, right by the train station – where the Glacier Express stops too. And it is not far from the Guetsch-Express mountain railway. While it is not exactly ski-in, ski-out here, it comes close to that.

Facilities/Memberships

The offer here is impressive, from a state-of-the art spa (spread over 2,400 sqm) with several indoor

and outdoor pools,

four restaurants (see more about food in the separate section) as well as four more places for drinks and small bites (The Bar

and The Living Room,

The Lobby, The Courtyard – weather permitting –

as well as The Pool – a pool bar). In addition, there is The Wine Library – an event location –

and The Cigar Library – for cigar lovers.

And best of all, everything you encounter here is utterly beautiful, made from the best materials. If you catch sight of the exteriors the first time, it is hard to pin down the architecture style. It has something of an Alpine building yet it is not your typical chalet. For me, the building’s rather simple form is most reminiscent of the typical barns you see here in the area. Quite special is the slatted wooden double facade that “hides” the balconies.

There are three main wings that are centered around a splendide courtyard, a pond in summer, an ice rink in winter.

As to memberships,  The Chedi Andermatt is part of the GHM (General Hotel Management Ltd.) luxury hotel group. So far, it mainly consists of Chedi Hotels in the Asian region. The Chedi also belongs to the renown hotel association of The Leading Hotels of the World. Furthermore, it is a member of Swiss Deluxe Hotels.

Ambiance

As to the interiors, the layout is incredibly generous but without making the impression of being too vast. Everything has been thoroughly thought out. The reception desk is made of a huge granite block that seamlessly becomes a bar where you could have a drink. At its very end, you are already in the the lobby bar. And adjacent to it, you can have a look at the indoor pool, only separated from the lobby by a glass wall.

And the decor is breathtakingly attractive, local stone, wood and leather in dark tones! While the hotel has an Alpine vibe, it definitely is Asian influenced, too. At almost every corner, you find a fireplace, there are more than 200 totally!

Service

Service is as excellent as you would expect at a hotel of this caliber. Maybe it was not especially personal, but that is difficult to reach in a hotel with 123 rooms. So everything was as it should be.

There is one thing that I found somewhat unusual in this context. At the hotel entrance, there was a small note asking the guests not to take photos from public spaces. I only discovered it when I had already done all my pictures. So it was too late for me anyway. And they did not give any reason for this request. I do understand that you should not post any photos where you can recognize guests. But otherwise, I cannot see the point.

Guest rooms

There are 123 rooms in five categories (Deluxe Rooms, Grand Deluxe Rooms, Junior Deluxe Suites, Deluxe Suites, Grand Deluxe Suites) plus three extra large suites. The standard room – which is far from being basic – is big (52 to 55 sqm) and the Grand Deluxe Suite is huge (110 sqm). You see, the Chedi Andermatt plays in another league! Even the least expensive room – which is far from being inexpensive – is a “temple of luxury”.

In terms of rates, prices vary much, depending on the season, the weekday and the demand. The absolute high season is end of December/beginning of January, another peak is in February/beginning of March. In summer, prices are more modest. The lowest rate I found was in November, midweek (425 SFR/US$). This is a point of time where neither the golf course nor the ski lifts are in use. In contrast, in the last December week you have to shell out 1,300 SFR/US$ for the standard room.

My husband and I were in Andermatt end of June, when the mountain railways did not run yet. And we stayed over the weekend. We had opted for a special offer, a Gault Millau Dine & Style Package. This included two nights and one four-course menu with wine pairing at The Restaurant plus a 50 SFR spa credit per person and stay. We had not chosen the standard room but one category higher, the Grand Deluxe Room. Find the room details in the following.

Grand Deluxe Room at The Chedi Andermatt

Description

The Grand Deluxe Room is exactly the same as the standard room, the Deluxe Room. The only difference is its location. While the Deluxe Room is on lower floors, the Grand Deluxe Room is on upper floors. And this is quite an advantage, in my opinion. Because I caught sight of many rooms on lower floors with not very attractive views. In terms of vista, we were very lucky! Our room was in the higher middle wing with stunning views of the pond at our feet and the Urseren valley in the distance!

And I have to say that there are lots of vistas at The Chedi that I consider as not so good, be in the direction of the street or the station.

Every room at The Chedi comes with a glass-fronted fireplace that can be watched either from the inside or from the balcony.

The latter, by the way, offers no privacy at all, which is a pity. Otherwise, the room is truly gorgeous.

From the wooden and stone floors and walls, the sofa running the entire length of one wall complete with a giant Alpine photo mural, the fabulous bathroom with a freestanding bathtub and huge rain showers to the low Japanese-style table in the room’s center. What a beauty of a room! And only with the best materials imaginable!

With regard to the pricing, it did not come inexpensive, which should not be surprising. At the time of booking, the special offer that included dining & wining on one night cost just as much as the best available rate with breakfast (1,217 SFR/US$ per day and room). This is super-pricey, and I am not completely sure whether this rate is justified for what you get. Beauty is not everything!

What else you need to know about the room

Despite my enthusiasm about the room, I have to make a negative point. Also the bed is of the highest quality! They have here Haestens Beds, which are only made of the finest natural materials and are produced by hand. For sure, they must be incredibly expensive! Unfortunately, you do not have a choice at The Chedi as to the bedding. There is only a king size option, so no twin beds available. And although the bed was comfortable, I found it way too bouncy. The motion transfer from one side of the bed to the other was very high. Every time either my husband or I shifted, the other woke up. In case you should be a light sleeper, keep that in mind!

One more thing, if you care for a regular table or even a desk, then you are wrong here. My verdict here, this is form over substance. Rooms are so beautiful yet not necessarily very practical!

Dining at The Chedi Andermatt, an ultra-luxury Alpine resort

I already let you know that that are four restaurants belonging to the Chedi. These are the following ones: the signature place, The Japanese Restaurant with one Michelin star and 16 points Gault Millau; The Restaurant with 14 points Gault Millau, The Chalet (wintertime) and The Japanese by The Chedi Andermatt (the mountain restaurant on Mount Guetsch) with one Michelin star and 14 points Gault Millau.

My husband and I went to the former two. I start with The Restaurant where we had a four-course menu plus wine pairing included in our arrangement.

The Restaurant (14 points Gault Millau) 

This is the main restaurant where they also serve breakfast. The dining room is huge with four show kitchens where you can watch the chefs at work.

The highlight here is the phenomenal Cheese Tower where you can help yourself in the morning and the server arranges a cheese dish for you in the evening.

The place has a modern feel, and everything here is high-end.

While the atmosphere in here is a bit impersonal and the noise level rather on the high side, we felt comfortable. This was also due to the staff who is friendly, informative and efficient.

The food was tasty, a mix of western and Asian cuisine. We liked what we got, compliments to the chef, Armin Egli! We began with an Italian classic, buratina with raw ham, honey tomato, and focaccia.

That was continued with a selection of dim sum.

The main course was surf & turf (beef tenderloin and lobster tail) with black garlic sauce, fennel, radish, cauliflower and saffron potato stones.

And the sweet end point was a pure chocolate variation with sorbet, mousse and brittle.

Also the wine pairing was to our liking!

One remark to the breakfast. While I liked the offerings – especially the cheese from this awesome Cheese Tower – , I was a bit astonished to see that you have to pay extra for dishes just as eggs Benedict or French toast. I think that these must be included in the room rate given the elevated price level at The Chedi.

Now to our dining experience at The Japanese Restaurant.

The Japanese Restaurant (1 star Michelin, 16 points Gault Millau)

In contrast to The Restaurant, The Japanese Restaurant is kept small and exclusive with about 45 seats. You can sit either at the sushi bar or at tables.

On offer here are two menus, a modern Kaiseki-Kappo and an a la carte one. The latter includes Nigiri-sushi, Uramaki-sushi and sashimi. You can also opt for dishes from the Kaiseki-Kappo menu as a la carte choices, either as an appetizer or a main course. For meat lovers you find Wagyu and Kobe (as main dishes) on the menu, too.

The kitchen is helmed not by a Japanese, but the Swiss born Dietmar Saywere. Since he was three years old, he had been living abroad. He returned 2013 and became executive chef at the Widder Hotel in Zurich before he was hired by The Chedi in 2015.

If you should wonder about the difference between Kaiseki and Kaiseki-Kappo, the latter is less formal and elaborate. The Kaiseki-Kappo menu at The Japanese Restaurant comprises 20 dishes to choose from. You can select either 4, 5 or six 6 courses (170, 200 or 230 SFR/US$). While 17 of them change on a regular basis, apparently three of them stay (forever) as they are the owner’s favorites (sashimi hamachi; sea scallop carpaccio with shiso, Kaviari Kristal caviar and beurre blanc; black cod with yuzu-miso sauce).

As to Dietmar Saywere’s style of cooking Japanese, find details in the next chapter, where I describe our five-course dinner. It is not really authentic but an Europeanized version of it, that much can be said.

Five-course modern Kaiseki-Kappo menu

We started both with some sort of a tuna variation (Balfego “Harumaki style”, Akami and Toro tuna with Sumiso sauce),

followed by sea scallop carpaccio with shiso, Kaviari Kristal caviar and beurre blanc.

Then my husband had udon noodles with Swiss shrimp and black truffle, Odamaki Mushi style (savory custard cup). I chose the black cod with white asparagus, Gottard-Shiitake and yuzo-miso sauce.

For mains, he decided to have the pork belly “Kakiage” (some kind of tempura style) in unison with smoked eel, shiso, sweetcorn and spicy ponzu. I for myself wanted to try the Teppanyaki duck breast paired with a gyoza (dumpling), hispi cabbage and a teriyaki-duckliver sauce.

In terms of dessert, my husband ordered a Japanese cheesecake with yuzu-sake jelly, coconut, raspberries and hibiscus. I opted for the green tea creme brûlée with Adzuki beans and green tea ice cream.

And how did we like it? If you care for truly authentic Japanese Kaiseki cuisine, then you probably will not be overly enthusiastic about it. But in case you are fond of well-made, creative Japanese food European inspired, then you are in the right spot here. I very much liked the chef’s modern interpretations of the Japanese cuisine. The innovative dishes are based on the Japanese aesthetics but incorporate classic French influences as well.

Quite in contrast to Japan, the dishes were rather filling. So, we struggled to finish our desserts, which serving sizes were quite generous. After four savory courses, one sweet one to share between us would definitely have been enough.

Overall

There was no expense spared in the construction of The Chedi Andermatt. Everywhere your eye goes, it finds beauty, be it in the state-of-the-art guest rooms or the grandiose public spaces. Even the least expensive accommodation – which is anything but inexpensive – has an exceptional standard. And the facilities are first-rate too, from the spectacular spa to the excellent dining-venues. The Chedi has really set a new benchmark of hotel luxury in Switzerland!

Having said that, there are downsides, too. I have already mentioned the high price level. While I understand that ultra-luxury lodging is going to cost you, there are apparent inconsistencies. If you pay a small fortune for a room, you do not only want it luxuriously appointed but also coming with a great view. And the choice here is not yours as each unit costs the same, independent from the vista. Best views in my opinion are the ones of the courtyard pond on upper levels. Not so good ones are those of the Gotthardstrasse and the Bahnhofstrasse.

Another drawback is the fact that there is no selection in terms of bedding. All the rooms feature king beds of the renown high-end Haestens brand. While they might be suitable for most people, they are way too bouncy for light sleepers. And you cannot evade them as there are no twin beds available.

And finally, there is no half board option available, which might come handy for longer stays. This is quite common in Switzerland, especially at hotels in ski resorts, which Andermatt definitely is. In the absence of this, costs for food and drink (wine prices are extremely high) will pile up quickly.

Date of stay: June 2021

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My latest destination for my early summer vacations was once again my homeland, Switzerland – who is surprised? And Corona could still be blamed. But hey, this beautiful country has such an abundance of travel attractions! As the year before, my husband and I went to the Ticino, Switzerland’s south, looking for near Mediterranean vibes. And there should be two overnight stops en route, one on the way and one on the way back. As always, we wanted it to be a luxury trip with Michelin dining, whenever possible. So we opted for Ascona as our main destination as well as for Andermatt and the Lake Constance area underway. And this because we knew about suitable hotels in those places for staying and dining in style. Yet, we had a luxury Ascona trip in mind in the first place.

What were our choices? In terms of restaurants, we only opted for hotels with gourmet restaurants. So that spared us looking for offsite dining-spots. Before coming to our selected lodging in Ascona, Andermatt and the Lake Constance area, a few words about each of these regions.

Ticino & two overnight stops on the way

Ascona, our main destination, can be reached from the country’s northwest in about two and a half hours’ drive. So there is actually no need to plan on an intermediary stop. But as my husband and I were looking for a change of location and – wanted to try out a specific hotel – , we scheduled a two-night stay in Andermatt.

While this first stop does not require a detour on our way to Ascona, this is a bit different with the one in the Lake Constance area. But as we booked it on short notice, the choice was somewhat limited. So we had a longer drive home. But that was no problem as Switzerland is small. Concretely, you need about two and three quarters of an hour from Ascona to Lake Constance and then another one hour and forty minutes back to Switzerland’s northwest.

1. Ticino, Switzerland’s south, a luxury Ascona trip

As previously reported on my blog, the canton of Ticino is apart from all others in Switzerland. Here people do not only speak Italian, but it is also some kind of Italian Mediterranean within my home country. Think of lots of sunshine, palm trees, water fronts (two lakes), relaxed ambiance and plenty of vacationers, mostly German Swiss or German. And although the Ticino has a bit of Italy, it is decidedly Swiss with all the prejudices that are at least partly true.

Most leisure travelers to the Ticino either go to the Lugano area or the Locarno resp. Ascona one. While Lugano

is the largest town in this Swiss canton featuring a nice old town and numerous mountains with splendid viewpoints, Locarno is smaller (and more touristy).

The same is true for Ascona, a neighboring village. And both places are located on Lake Maggiore. Ascona is a truly idyllic spot, boasting an enchanting historic core and a picturesque lakeside piazza.

The Ticino is one of my favorite vacation spots in my home country. So it is no surprise that you find several posts about it on my blog. Amongst others, I have written about where to stay and dine in style in Lugano (my post) or about all the luxury hotels in Ascona (my post).

2. Andermatt, Swiss Alps

Andermatt is a mountain village (1,437 m/4,715 ft above sea level) at a four-way crossroads, the north-south route (Gotthard Pass) and the west-east one (Furka Pass to west and Oberalp Pass to east).

While this attribute had been an important attribute for a long time, this changed with the opening of the Gotthard Road Tunnel in 1980. As a consequence, Andermatt has been bypassed on the crucial north-south route ever since.

While this Alpine village remained quite popular as a ski resort – snow is almost always guaranteed here in winter – , it otherwise lost importance, from a tourism viewpoint. This is also because the Urseren valley, where Andermatt is located, has a rather harsh climate.

The big change came in 2009, when Samih Sawiris, an Egyptian investor, decided to spend one billion SFR/US$ on the touristic development of Andermatt. First, there was the construction of The Chedi, a five-star superior hotel, and The Chedi Residences.

Then other hotels, vacation homes and mountain railways (SkiArena Andermatt) followed. With the addition of a golf course – seemingly one of the best in Switzerland – , Andermatt became a year-round destination. And Sawiris’ latest coup – and his last one here, as he says – is even a concert hall.

3. Lake Constance area in Switzerland’s northeast

Lake Constance, Central Europe’s third largest lake, straddles three countries, Germany, Austria and Switzerland. The Swiss part is located on the lake’s south-western side and is the country’s most north-eastern area. And it is – maybe in contrast to the German one, which is notably sunnier – not overly touristy.

Having said that, there is a bunch of things to do in the area. Attractions include the Rhine Falls in Schaffhausen (Europes largest waterfall), the Mainau Island (the Flower Island, Germany) or the Abbey Precinct of Saint Gallen.

I have been to the area several times in previous years, be it in Saint Gallen (my post), the largest city in the area, or in Heiden, a picturesque rural place not far from Saint Gallen (my post).

After this information on the areas visited on my early summer vacations, now to our choice of hotels.

3 excellent gourmet hotels in eastern Switzerland 

As outlined, we made a first stop at the mountain resort of Andermatt at the foot of the Saint Gotthard. And of course, we chose the signature’s lodging here, the mentioned ultra-luxury The Chedi (my post). Next was the main thing, a luxury Ascona trip. This was a five-night stay in this former fishing village in the immediate vicinity of Locarno, Ticino’s third-largest town. Here we went for a long time favorite of ours, the luxury hotel Castello del Sole (my report). We have not been here for seven years, and we were excited to see the changes. For our way home via the Lake Constance area, we gave Mammertsberg (my post), a luxury boutique hotel, a try.

Now to some more details to these properties. A full review of each will follow in separate posts.

1. Andermatt: The Chedi (1 Michelin star)

This is undoubtedly one of Switzerland’s most luxury hotels, and one of the country’s most expensive ones! It was opened in 2013 as first hotel of Sawiris’ mega development in Andermatt. And The Chedi is really something special! It is an unusual blend of Swiss Alpine chic and Asian vibe. You would not expect to find such a place in a quaint skiing resort as Andermatt! Every one of the 123 rooms – all at least 52 sqm in size – has its own fireplace. You can choose amongst four restaurants – The Japanese Restaurant has a Michelin star – and the award-winning spa is spread over 2,400 sqm and has indoor and outdoor pools. For details, refer to my report about it.

2. Ascona: Castello del Sole (1 Michelin star)

If you care for privacy and space to breathe, this might be the place for you. The whole complex (with bird sanctuary and farmland) covers 140 hectares! And the Mediterranean stately house with charming courtyards, directly located at the Lake Maggiore, is surrounded by an extensive park (14 hectares). It is a five-star superior property and member of the Relais & Château hotel group. There are 78 rooms in different buildings, a 2,500 sqm spa and four restaurants including the Locanda Barbarossa, which has been awarded a Michelin star. Furthermore, you find at the Castello del Sole several indoor and outdoor pools plus a private beach. Find here my hotel review.

3. Lake Constance: Mammertsberg (1 Michelin star)

UPDATE: new management as from fall 2022 (boutique collection by Andreas Caminada, 2-star Michelin chef Silvio Germann)

The Mammertsberg is a true postcard idyll, housed in a hundred-year-old mansion and overlooking Lake Constance. You find this luxury boutique hotel, featuring only six rooms, in the rural canton of Thurgau yet close to the city of Saint Gallen. The property – a Relais & Château house too – has been meticulously renovated complete with the construction of a modern monolith. Onsite there is a one Michelin starred restaurant with an outdoor area with stunning views of lake and farm land. And the hosts (including all staff) are among the most amiable I have ever encountered! As there are no other amenities, it is rather something for a short stay (one or two nights). And for details, refer to my post.

In case you are interested about more details to our luxury Ascona trip combined with two stops on the way, come back later. There will be comprehensive reviews about The Chedi (my report) in Andermatt, the Castello del Sole (my post) in Ascona and the Mammertsberg (my stay) in Freidorf/Lake Constance in the time to come.

Date of stay: July 2021

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Winter vacations – skiing & winter hiking – is something that my husband and I do every year. And for this purpose, we favor upscale ski-in/ski-out hotels in Switzerland. While we had opted for Zermatt in the western Swiss Alps in recent years, we were looking for alternatives in this Corona winter. We felt like going to smaller ski resorts where we do not have to hop on crowded gondolas. In addition, we wanted to go somewhere with opportunities for winter hiking. And we found two great high-class hotels that were an ideal fit!

Both places we went to are in the eastern Swiss Alps. This was not a deliberate choice but more of a coincidence (best weather forecasts). On the one hand, we went to Arosa where we spent a few days over New Year at the Tschuggen Grand Hotel. On the other hand, we headed to the Upper Engadine, precisely to Zuoz, for winter vacations at the Hotel Castell.

While both hotels are good picks for demanding guests, they differ in several essential aspects. I start with giving you information about the Tschuggen Grand Hotel, followed by details on the Hotel Castell. Before doing so, I have to make an important point. Although it is about winter vacations in this blogpost, the resorts of Arosa and Zuoz are likewise suitable for summer tourism too! When I come to the respective hotels, I will quickly point out some possible activities for both seasons.

Tschuggen Grand Hotel *****^S Arosa

Just a few facts about the mountain resort Arosa, before diving into the hotel!

About Arosa – and what to do

Arosa in the canton of Grisons is a great destination, both in winter and summer. While in wintertime it is all about skiing and winter hiking,

you come here in summer especially for hiking and biking.

The ski-resort has been linked with the neighboring Lenzerheide since 2013. This makes it to one of the larger ski areas in the area with a total of 225 km (140 mi) of ski slopes. And Arosa Lenzerheide also features 140 km (87 mi) of winter hiking trails.

In summer, you can choose among 200 km (124 mi) of varied hiking and walking trails. And if you prefer biking, 141 cycle routes await you.

Location

Arosa lies at end of a sometimes narrow, very curvy road (Supposedly 365 curves!) that starts in Chur, the capital of Grisons. It is much easier to reach it by train instead, departing from the town of Chur as well. Once arrived in Arosa, you have to go further, to the so-called Innerarosa, to come to the Tschuggen. The hotel is just off the Obere Waldpromenade (upper forest promenade) and quietly located at the edge of the ski area.

And it has its own mountain railway, called Tschuggen Express.

It brings hotel guests in less than four minutes to the core of the ski area, and to many winter hiking trails too.  This is truly a unique ski-in/ski-out service in Switzerland!

Facilities

The hotel calls itself Tschuggen Grand Hotel, but be prepared, it does not appear as typical grand hotel! That is because the original building, dating from 1929, burned down in 1966. The hotel was reopened in 1970, built in contemporary architecture (it is not really a feast for the eyes).

Having said this, you find something here that really pleases the eye, the Tschuggen Bergoase (mountain oasis), the spa complex. The famous Swiss architect Mario Botta did the design, and it truly is an unmistakable landmark!

The wellness facilities are impressive, covering an area of 5,000 sqm. You find here several pools,

various saunas/steam baths, twelve treatment rooms, a separate ladies’ area, a hairstylist, a fitness center, medical wellness offerings and private spa suites.

On site, there are several restaurants (check out the separate chapter “food”), a number of boutiques, ski rentals and sale, E-mountain bikes to lend and a kindergarten. And the Tschuggen Grand Hotel is a member of The Leading Hotels of the World. It is also part of the Tschuggen Hotel Group that includes Hotel Eden Roc in Ascona (see here my blogpost about it), Carlton Hotel in Saint Moritz and Valsana Hotel in Arosa.

When it comes to the interior design, Carlo Rampazzi, was responsible for the décor. While it is similar to the one in the sister hotel Eden Roc Ascona, it is a bit less extravagant. I would it describe as elegant with rustic elements, adapted to the mountain world.

Rooms/Pricing

The total number of rooms is 128, from which are 34 suites and junior suites. Winter prices range from 365 to 3,590 SFR/US$, summer prices from 240 to 1,625 SFR/US$, and this per room including breakfast.

My husband and I chose the most upscale double room for our five-day stay over New Year, a Deluxe Double Room. The room we had was south facing and spacious enough (40 sqm). It boasted a sun loggia with a great view of the area, a granite bathroom

and my dearest feature, two comfortable leather armchairs.

Although it was a pleasant and comfortable room, it was not worth its high price tag (1,750 SFR/US$ per day including half board). Unfortunately it is a fact that you have to overspend if you want to vacate at this time at a luxury hotel in the Swiss mountains!

Food

If you want to dine at the Tschuggen “only,” opting for the half-board arrangement (dine around) is the thing to do. And that is what my husband and I went for. It costs 70 SFR/US$ in winter and 60 SFR/US$ in summer. If you do not make any bookings, you dine at the main restaurant, the elegant Grand Restaurant.

Here you choose five courses from a daily changing menu offering a vast selection. And the food is impeccable! I especially liked the Moving Mountains Signature Menu with modern and healthy dishes.

Alternatively, you can opt for the following restaurants: the gourmet restaurant (La Brezza for the winter season 2020/21), La Collina (informal, with a touch of the south), The Basement (casual, burgers, salads & steaks), Tschuggen Bar (small bites)

and the Spa Lounge (light bites, until 7 p.m.). In addition, the dine around also includes the Restaurant Twist at the sister hotel Valsana and the Restaurant Alpenblick, a mountain restaurant.

Normally, my husband and I like to try out the gourmet restaurants on site. This was not the case this time. We already know la Brezza (one star Michelin & 17 points Gault-Millau) from several fabulous dinners in Ascona where it has normally its domicile at the Eden Roc (post). And we found the food at the main restaurant, the Grand Restaurant, very good. Also the New Year’s Eve dinner was excellent.

Ambiance/Staff

As mentioned, the Tschuggen does not ooze the typical Grand Hotel atmosphere. And it has nothing of that rustic chalet-style hotel you often see in the mountains. Instead it is a just an ordinary high-rise building from the late sixties. Fortunately, it was “pimped up” with the spa building. Nine “sails”, made of steel and glass, direct the sun into the wellness center in daytime.

At night, they shine into the mountains in many colors.

When entering the lobby, a large space stretches out in front of you. At the same time, the ceiling height is low. And it is quite dark in here. One more thing caught my eye, the Tschuggen Bar is also part of this space. And it seamlessly begins near the elevators, which I find a bit odd.

Nevertheless, the interiors and the staff’s attitude exude elegance. In accordance with it, the crowd seems to consist of well-heeled couples and families. As to the service, it was excellent from start to finish. Especially the servers in the Grand Restaurant hit the perfect notes of warmth and friendliness with that touch of formality you expect from a luxury hotel.

Hotel Castell ****^S Zuoz, Upper Engadine

UPDATE: new management as from April 2022 (Christine Abel & Matthias Wettstein, before Sorell Hotel Tamina Bad Ragaz & Hotel Guarda Val Lenzerheide / former management (Irene & Martin Mueller) at Hotel Maistra160 Pontresina since October 2022 (hotel opening in summer 2023)

Just as with the Tschuggen Grand Hotel, some words to the mountain village Zuoz first! And then it goes to the hotel.

About Zuoz – and what to do

Zuoz is part of the Engadine, a long high Alpine valley in the canton of Grisons in the eastern Swiss Alps. While most people have already heard of the glamorous mountain resort here, Saint Moritz, Zuoz is less known. However, it is one the most beautiful villages in the Upper Engadine with stunningly adorned Engadine houses and gorgeous patrician buildings.

And if you travel with children, Zuoz was awarded the label of a Family Destination.

Zuoz’s ski area is not large (five lifts only), however surprisingly suitable for beginners and advanced skiers likewise. And if you would like to ski elsewhere in the Engadine, no worry. The Sleep + Ski offer of participating hotels allows you to purchase a ski pass at the favorable price of 45 SFR/US$ per day (for the whole stay only). If you want to go winter hiking instead, there are lots of such trails, too.

In summer, the Upper Engadine offers 580 km (360 mi) of varied hiking trails. If you are into biking, 537 cycle routes are here at your disposal. And in case you are a golfer, Zuoz-Madulain has its own 18-hole golf course.

Location

Here we are in the picturesque Upper Engadine yet it feels far away from showy Saint Moritz! You reach the hotel in twenty minutes by car from Saint Moritz. If you travel by train, it brings you in less than 30 minutes from Saint Moritz to the railway station in Zuoz (where they pick you up from the hotel if desired).

The Castell towers high above the idyllic village of Zuoz.

From here you reach the hotel in twenty minutes by foot. Alternatively, there is the hotel shuttle bus between Zuoz village and the Castell. From the hotel you have fantastic views of the Inn valley (Inntal). You are only steps away from the ski slopes, so it is ideal for a perfect ski-in/ski-out experience. If you prefer skiing in the Saint Moritz area, there is a shuttle available. Hiking trails start right by the hotel. And the best is the tranquil setting far from the hustle and bustle of Saint Moritz.

Facilities

The Castell is a four-star superior hotel and that comes along with fewer amenities compared to a five-star accommodation. What caught my eye first that there is no doorman service. We were asked if we needed help with the baggage. But we (politely) denied when we saw that other guests carried their suitcases themselves to their room. And the ski room is frugal with no assigned compartment for each party. There is also no turn down service but I can do well without it, especially in these Corona times.

Otherwise, there is everything you need, I think, also for discerning guests. First of all, the hotel is in a beautiful Art Nouveau building, constructed in 1913.

In 1996, Ruedi Bechtler, an art collector, bought it, renovated it (in 2004) and converted it into a “art hotel”. Everywhere you go, you are confronted with art. I think it is the only hotel where I have walked down all the corridors to have a look at the art on the walls!

As to the restaurant, please refer to the separate chapter “food”. In term of wellness, there is a hammam on site offering a relaxing and cleansing ritual, which is a nice thing to do. Massages and treatments are also available. Furthermore, there is an outdoor wellness area consisting of a rock pool (only in summer, not for swimming) and a small Finnish sauna hut.

At the top of the hotel tower you find a small fitness room.

What it lacks in size, it makes up for with commanding views!

It may further be mentioned that the Castell is very child friendly. You find here a kids club, a supervised children’s table, a playground in summer, an ice rink in winter, hammam visits for kids and others. And to complete the offerings, the hotel has its own studio cinema.

Rooms/Pricing

Out of the 68 rooms you can choose from nine categories. The smallest room is 20 sqm (Castell), the biggest room 40 sqm (Junior Suite resp. Family Room). While half the rooms are designed in a modern style (UN-Studios Amsterdam), the other half is kept in a contemporary Alpine décor (architect Hans-Joerg Ruch Saint Moritz). Rates are (Easter 2021) from 252 to 414 SFR/US$ with breakfast per room and day. Half board costs 65 SFR/US$ more per person and day. I found the pricing very reasonable and affordable.

My husband and went for the Junior Suite, the largest room (together with the Family Room) with splendid views of the Inn valley.

We were on the second floor, just above the outdoor restaurant (which was a bit inconvenient because it served as smoking area). It is a comfortable albeit not fancy accommodation in a minimalistic décor. The room is full of local pinewood. It features a large walk-in closet, a seating area, an electrically adjustable bed, a small balcony  and a spacious bathroom with bathtub and separate shower.

Food

When looking for something to eat, you can choose among the restaurant, the bar or the terrace (weather permitting). The restaurant offers two opportunities, the beautiful Art Nouveau dining room

and the Belvair,

another enchanting space.

The food at the Castell Restaurant is great! If you are on half board, you can choose four courses from the daily changing menu. And the size of portions is quite generous.

The chef, Helmut Leitner, has been in charge since late 2015. He stems from the South Tyrol, and you notice that Italian-German touch in his refined cuisine (14 points Gault Millau). If you care for fine wines, then put yourselves in the hands of Martin Mueller, the hotel manager. He is not only a proven wine expert but has real finds in the wine cellar. And they are also reasonably priced!

For lunch or smaller bites, head to The Red Bar. This truly is an eye-catcher, designed by Gabrielle Haechler, a Zurich architect, and Pipilotti Rist, an internationally recognized artist.

When the weather permits it, you also can have a seat on the inviting terrace, a work of the Japanese artist Tadashi Kawamata.

Ambiance/Staff

If you are on the lookout for pure luxury, a distinguished clientele or a place where people dress up in the evening, the Castell might be not your first choice. However, if you favor a casual relaxed atmosphere where a diverse crowd gathers to live the good life, you are right here.

The hotel is a gem, and this in many respects: the location, the building, the interiors, the artsy feel, the food. The only thing that cannot fully keep up with it, are the guest rooms which tend to be a bit too much on the functional side. Having said that, you do not have to break your wallet when vacationing here.

There is one more plus point at the Castell, the husband-and-wife-team who have managed the place since the 2015 summer season, Irene and Martin Mueller. When my husband and I met the wife upon arrival, I was sure sure that I knew her from somewhere. After some thinking,  it came to my mind. We knew the two of them from several stays at the Hotel Waldhaus in Sils where they had been working for 15 years. And this in a memorable way! And they really do a great job at the Castell, too. The same goes for the staff, who knows its stuff.

Overall: ski-in/ski-out in style

My husband and I got to know two ski-in/ski-out high class hotels in Switzerland in this winter season, the Tschuggen in Arosa and the Castell in Zuoz. Both are located in the eastern Swiss Alps. While they both offer a preferred location, good-quality facilities and dining in style, the similarities end here.

As to the facilities, it is clear that the the five-star superior Hotel Tschuggen has more to offer in this regard than the four-star superior Hotel Castell. For example, there is no doorman service, only a small functional ski room and no turndown in the evening at the latter. However, you don’t have to deprive yourself of other amenities at the Castell!

When it comes to the guest rooms, the ones at the Castell are a bit on the frugal side yet well-kept. And you get value for money here. Go for the Junior Suite here if you care for more space and both a bathtub and a separate shower. The Tschuggen has nicely appointed rooms but be prepared to fork out some cash at certain times (for instance over New Year).

In terms of ambiance, the Tschuggen is an elegant place where immaculate staff is of service to an affluent clientele. If you appreciate a more laid-back ambiance along a varied crowd and great hospitality by a husband-and-wife-team, you are better off at the Castell.

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Date of stay: Tschuggen January 2021, Castell February 2021

The post 2 great high-class hotels to ski-in/ski-out in Switzerland first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post 2 great high-class hotels to ski-in/ski-out in Switzerland appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

After publishing part one of a guide to luxury hotels in Switzerland, here is now part two. Find here a directory for high-end accommodation when traveling my beautiful home country. While part one covered Swiss lodging in the west, the current one is primarily about southern and eastern Switzerland. All together follows a grand tour of Switzerland I proposed to travelers visiting this small yet immensely varied nation. Yet another post highlighted premium destinations in this Alpine nation.

Luxury hotels along the grand tour of Switzerland, part two

For details on how to visit Switzerland (grand tour, divided into a basic tour and 5 modular ones to add according to desire), please have a look at my correspondent blogpost.

As I already pointed out in part one, I listed all the Swiss 5-star properties (luxury) that you find on your way across the country. There will be short descriptions about the lodging along with links to detailed posts about the establishments in question. This of course only in cases I can look back to stays at these hotels.

Now to the modular tours No 3 (Zermatt-Saint Moritz), 4 (Zurich-Saint Gallen-Appenzell-Bad Ragaz) and 5 (Chur-Ticino).

Modular tour No 3: Zermatt-Saint Moritz – high-end accommodation in Switzerland’s southern Alps

Zermatt

There is no shortage of luxury hotels in Zermatt, the mountain resort with the famous Matterhorn peak. In the recent past, I spent winter vacations here three times in a row. On these occasions, I stayed at the one and only ski-in/ski-out luxury hotel in town, the Riffelalp Resort (my review).

Contrary to the other hotels to stay in style here, it is located high up in the mountains in the ski area. It is a historical property offering good wellness and restaurant facilities.

If you rather want to spend your time in Zermatt in the town, you have quite a choice. There are two contemporary luxury hotels, the Cervo Mountain Resort and The Omnia. The former is ski-in, the latter not. I recently stayed a few days at the latter and absolutely fell in love with it (my post).

Furthermore, you find here also two historical properties, the Mont Cervin Palace

and the Grand Hotel Zermatterhof.

Neither of them is ski-in/ski out. All these establishments are in Zermatt’s center, The Omnia is a bit above yet with an elevator to reach it. Every single one has wellness offerings (maybe the Mont Cervin Palace has the best) and gourmet fine dining (the Mont Cervin Palace and the Grand Hotel Zermatterhof feature both one-star Michelin restaurants).

Andermatt

If you take the Glacier Express from Zermatt to Saint Moritz, you can make a stop in Andermatt. Here you find one of Switzerland’s most luxurious hotels, The Chedi Andermatt. While it certainly is a beauty and features state-of-the-art facilities, it has its price (my blogpost). And for skiers, it is practically a ski-in/ski-out resort.

Saint Moritz

This mountain resort is probably the most glamorous one in Switzerland. And of course it comes with an ample selection of luxury hotels! And this not only in Saint Moritz but in its surroundings, too.

Saint Moritz region

Similar to Gstaad, Saint Moritz is the actual “brand” but often all the hotels in the Upper Engadine are included here. Personally, I find the town of Saint Moritz not especially appealing and a bit overly pretentious. And I cannot get rid of the impression that only regular guests are welcome in many high-end accommodations. Therefore, I prefer staying in the vicinity, in the beautiful Upper Engadine.

Saint Moritz

Five luxury hotels await you here. And all of them leave nothing to be desired in terms of culinary offerings and wellness facilities. However, you usually have to dig deep in your pockets if you want to stay here in style.

Of late I spent two days at the “star hotel” here, Badrutt’s Palace,

and this while attending an event. My impression about this grand old dame may be a bit clouded because it was end of season on my stay. This meant that almost all the hotel restaurants were closed. However, my husband and I enjoyed it here (good quality rooms, newly redone; great wellness area). Albeit, chances of our staying here again are small but this is due that I am more into discreet luxury.

Zurich

It goes without saying that also Zurich – the most important and largest Swiss city – has lots of high-end lodging! Precisely said, there are nine in number. While eight are in the city’s core, one is on the lake, a bit away from the center (Alex Lake Zurich).

One of my favorite places for a staycation used to be the The Dolder Grand (my review).

It is located in the city, however a bit away from the hustle and bustle. Not only it hosts one of the best restaurants in town (two-star Michelin restaurant) but also a state-of-the-art spa. And the location is stunning, a bit away from the hustle and bustle with great views of city, lake and mountains. Unfortunately, it became a bit too expensive for what you get in my view lately.

And there are some other great picks for staying in style in Zurich. Above all, I think of the three hotels belonging to The Living Circle collection. There are two of them in the city center, Widder,

in the beautiful old town, where I stayed not a long time ago. Plus, you find the Storchen,

not far away from the former on the river Limmat,

Both are in medieval buildings and have excellent fine dining (Storchen has a one-star – see my post – and Widder even a two-star Michelin restaurant). If you want to be by the lake, you have to go their third hotel, Alex Lake Zurich.

I did this in the past and was delighted by the location on the water. This modern accommodation is a bit out of town and has a more relaxed feel than some of its counterparts in Zurich’s city center (my post).

A good alternative for staying in style in the Lake Zurich area is also Belvoir in Rueschlikon (4-star superior).

The views of lake and mountains are truly splendid and gourmet dining as well as wellness offerings are available, too (my post).

Other luxury hotels are La Réserve Eden au Lac, reopened in 2020, and the traditional Baur Au Lac. And the latest star in town is the Mandarin Oriental Savoy that has reopened end of 2023.

All these establishments are old word properties and offer recommended fine dining as well as fitness facilities.

To round up the list you find in Zurich also the contemporary Park Hyatt, which is more a business hotel. It has a gourmet restaurant and a high-end fitness & spa club open for non-resident guests as well. And last there is also the Alden Suite Hotel Spluegenschloss, a smaller and lesser known 5-star property.

Saint Gallen

This mid-size city in the country’s northeast is not exactly a tourist hot spot although featuring some interesting sights. Therefore, the offerings in the luxury lodging segment is limited. Actually there is only one property (4-star superior) in town that stands out from the (average) rest. This is the Einstein.

Although being in a historical building it only became a hotel in the eighties.

Apart from featuring the best restaurant in town, a two-star Michelin restaurant, it features updated rooms and  fitness- and wellness center (open to the public too).

If you prefer staying  at a 5-star hotel, consider the not so far away Grand Resort Bad Ragaz (50 minutes by car, a bit more than an hour by train).

Bad Ragaz

Bad Ragaz might not be one of the most high profile tourist locations in Switzerland (good for hiking in the Pre-Alps, wine region), but for sure it hosts one of the country’s flagship hotels!

Here you encounter one of the leading wellbeing and health resorts in Europe, the two 5-star establishments of the Grand Hotel Quellenhof (my favorite)

and the Grand Hotel Hof Ragaz. Combined, it is the Grand Resort Bad Ragaz, both historical premises.

In the past, I enjoyed two wonderful stays here (my blogpost) making use of the sheerly unbelievable amenities. There are seven restaurants with – imagine – totally six Michelin stars! It is the non plus ultra in wellness (thermal water world, spas, two fitness centers). You can go to the casino, do shopping and play golf (two courses).

Modular tour No 5: Chur-Ticino – high-end accommodation in Switzerland’s south

When staying in Bad Ragaz, Chur (where you are meant to board the Bernina Express to reach the Ticino) is close by (16 minutes by train, a bit more by car). So there is no need to look for an accommodation in Chur. In Ticino, you have to make a choice between the more urban Lugano or the leisure places of Locarno (city) or Ascona.

Lugano

As a frequent traveler to the near-Mediterranean Ticino I have already stayed at three of the four 5-star hotels here. On the latest visit, my husband and I chose the Splendide Royal

for this purpose (my post). And this is also my favorite of the moment in Lugano. This grand old dame, directly on the lake (and on the busy road, the only drawback), has everything a demanding traveler wishes for: exquisite fine dining, a new separate building with wellness and fitness as well as a central location.

Another good choice here on the same road (yet a bit away from it) is the historical Grand Hotel Villa Castagnola (my post).

While it is a bit of the city center, it is close to many sights. You find here gourmet restaurants, wellness facilities and even a small private lido.

A bit away from the city center and the lake there is a third luxury hotel where I have been to in the recent past, Villa Principe Leopoldo (my review).

It is up in the hills with magnificent views of lake and mountains. The hotel is housed in a formerly private residence and comes with a spa as well as an good fine dining restaurant (I had dinner at this Michelin listed venue when staying in Lugano in late 2020).

I also had a glimpse at the fourth hotel to stay in style in Lugano on my recent visit, the new boutique The View (opened 2015).

One night, we dined at their outstanding one-star Michelin restaurant. This modern property is up in the hills and comes with a state-of-the-art spa and fitness. And as the name says it, views from here are great.

Locarno

There is only one 5-star house in this laid-back city. And it is not even in town but high above Locarno in the neighboring village of Orselina. Its name is Villa Orselina and the name suits it perfectly. It is boutique with stunning views of lake and mountains. Onsite you find gourmet dining and spa facilities.

Yet the small community of Ascona with more lodging to stay in style is only a few minutes by car or bus away.

Ascona

In the picturesque village of Ascona you find three more luxury hotels that fulfill all the wishes discerning travelers might have. All three feature top wellness facilities and exquisite fine dining.

I have been to all of them (see my overview), not so long ago twice at the Eden Roc.

It definitely boasts the best location in town. However, it is visually not exactly appealing (a merger of three buildings). The property is right on the lake, steps away from the center yet far enough from the hustle and bustle of Ascona’s piazza. And the culinary offer is not only first-class but broad, too (one two-star Michelin dining-spot).

Every now and then, I also choose the idyllically set Castello del Sole (my post)

in Ascona’s outskirts. It is in a huge park, also on the lake. This hotel is especially suitable for guests in search of tranquility and lots of personal space. And it is the only one of the three that is housed (partly) in a historic building. Plus, you find here also one Michelin star dining.

Quite some time ago, my husband and I also opted twice for the third player in the luxury segment here, the Giardino.

Contrary to its opponents, it is not on the water but in a residential area, a bit of the center. It is kept in the Tuscan style and is perhaps the one with the most laid-back feel of the three. And foodies are well taken care of too as there is a two-star Michelin venue onsite.

Overall

Next on my blog you will learn more about where to go as a lover of fine dining in my home country. As done here, I will make suggestions along the grand tour of Switzerland (proposed in my travel guide to visiting this Alpine nation). This time regarding gourmet (Michelin) restaurants, which are plenty (part one and two).

Here in this post I advised on high-end accommodation in Switzerland, and this was part two. For the first part, have a look here. If you want to know about premium Swiss destinations, refer to my correspondent blogpost.

last revised: December 2024

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