Now it is about two more “Fingers of the Peloponnese Hand”! In this context you have to be aware of the fact that this most southern part of mainland Greece is like a left hand directed downwards. In the paragraphs to be followed I go into the “East/Monemvasia Finger” and the “Middle/Mani Finger”. The “Peloponnese Hand” is where my husband and I went end of October last year. Traveling this Greek region steeped in history was a rewarding thing to do! And tourists at this time of the year were not plentiful. Find details of the whole trip in the next paragraph. After this, I will let you know what to do plus where to go for best hotels and (fine-dining) restaurants in the mentioned “Fingers”.

Before elaboration further, there is again my Google Map of our Peloponnese and Athens itinerary. It comes with all the upscale lodging we stayed and the (fine-dining) spots we ate.

Peloponnese & Athens in style, the itinerary overview

My travel report is split in four parts. My last post – part one – went into the trip outline, some general information and the first “Peloponnese Finger”, the “Thumb”. The latter is the region of Argolis with the town of Nafplio. Part two is the present one with the “East or Index Finger” and the “Mani or Middle Finger”. Region wise it concerns Laconia first of all. As to part three, the focus is on the “West or the Ring Finger”, the Messenia region, plus Olympia and the mountainous Arcadia region. And part four is about Athens.

While my husband and I did a road trip in the Peloponnese (part one to three), we were stationary in Athens. Throughout my reporting, you will learn about where to go for the best upscale hotels and restaurants. No easy thing in the Peloponnese I can tell you! However, in Athens, it went smoothly. Furthermore, I will let you know about some major sights everywhere we went (part one to three). In addition, you will also find some walking/hiking suggestions, as we like to explore the area on foot (part one to three).

From place to place in the Peloponnese, part II, “Peloponnese East & Mani Fingers”

1. “Peloponnese East Finger”

A good base on the “Peloponnese East Finger” is Monemvasia, a dramatic place just off the coast. When driving here from Nafplio, we did a stop in Tyros, a small, charming seaside town. It is great for a short walk along the beautiful pebbled beach. And Café Zorbas is good for a drink.

About the “Peloponnese East Finger”

Monemvasia

The absolute highlight on this “Finger” is Monemvasia, without any doubt. Nothing prepares you for the sight of this (almost) inhabited rock rising out of the sea. It is often compared to the Rock of Gibraltar, although it is only a fraction of its size. Yet it is still just as dramatic. Locals call this place “The Castle”, but it actually is a stunning fortified town. This medieval place comes with castle walls (lower town) and a fortress on the top (upper town). While the former is well-kept,

the latter is mostly in ruins, expect the Church of Hagia Sophia.

It is well worth climbing up to the upper town, not only to see the ruins but also for the views of the sea and the town of Gefira.

Find here the link to a hike leading around the rock and through both the upper and lower town. Recommended places for small bites in the area are Emvasis Café in the lower town and  Bakery Angelakos, south of Gefira.

Further activity “Peloponnese East Finger”

We did one more activity on the “Peloponnese East Finger”, and this was a walk/hike in its very south. It starts in a remote fishing village

leading along the beautiful coast. Nearby is also the Geopark of Agios Nikolaos, a petrified forest. While we did not have time to visit this attraction, it might be worth doing.

When being in the area and longing for fine pastry, head to Laconia’s capital, Neapoli Vion. Here you find several establishments offering such treats. My husband and I opted for this place and very much liked what we got!

Our hotel: Kinsterna Monemvasia, one of the best hotels on the Peloponnese East Finger

Hotel Kinsterna is the only five-star accommodation far and wide. That is not all, it really is a dreamy property! This fort-like manor is perched up high on the hillside a short stretch down the coast from the Monemvasia Castle. It has origins dating back to the mid 17th century. When the current owners purchased the estate in 2002, it was in bad shape. Since 2006, it underwent renovations and reopened in 2010, restored to its former glory.

Out of the 52 rooms, my husband and I opted for a Premium Residence. These rooms offer much space (35-42sqm)

and come with a large terrace

as well as a marble bathroom.

Ours had a view of the gardens, which was nice. As to the decor, it was a lovely mix of traditional and modern elements. The one thing that we did not like so much was that the room was a bit dark. The daily rate amounted to 452€ with breakfast.

In terms of restaurants, there are two onsite. It is about the all-day Mouries and the Linos Tavern, which is only open seasonally (on certain days). We had dinner at the former once, but we did not return as the experience disappointed (mediocre food, inconsistent service). However, breakfast was a different affair with lots of choice and pleasant staff.

Otherwise, the facilities at Kinsterna are great. You find here two pools and an extensive activity program. And the staff was generally friendly and well trained.

Our restaurant: Athivoli Monemvasia, one of the best restaurants on the Peloponnese East Finger

As we were not in favor of the restaurant at our hotel (see above), we dined elsewhere. And Athivoli,

a tavern on the coast south of the Monemvasia Castle, turned out to be a hit! On two occasions, it persuaded with well-made Greek cuisine that came with a modern twist now and then. I very much liked the starters just as fried local cheese (8€) or roasted aubergine (7€). Also the spinach salad was a good choice (10€). When it came to mains, we did not try out the meat dishes, but only had fish and seafood (15 to 18€). Yet these dishes were made with quality ingredients and immaculately prepared. And they were accompanied by original sides. The two desserts we had, Ekmek Kataifi (6€) and Lemon Pie(7€), were equally fine.

As to the setting, it was the most cultivated ambiance we encountered in a Greek tavern during our 17-day stay in this country. And the service was friendly and accommodating. We even got a gratis after-dinner liqueur on our second visit!

2. “Peloponnese Mani Finger”

On the transfer from the “East Finger” (Monemvasia) to Aeropoli and surroundings – where you find the most lodging options – , it makes sense to stop in Gythio, a picturesque coastal town. It is the capital of the so-called Lower Mani. If you have a sweet tooth, this patisserie makes heavenly pastries!

And also have a look at the Dimitrios Shipwreck on Valtaki Beach.

About the “Peloponnese Mani Finger”

Why Mani deserves a special mention

The “Mani Finger” is definitively something special! Whereas in other parts of the Peloponnese you find lovely landscapes with olive-studded hills and villages of golden stone, this is different in the Inner Mani (south of Areopoli). Both the land and people are austere. Stark, treeless mountain, stone fields and stone towers shape the landscape. Mani is home to the Maniots, known as fierce warriors, who used to fight seemingly endlessly about water and land. They built stone houses with castle-like towers, and this often in almost inaccessible hillsides.

It was not until the 1970s, when the national government reduced the local autonomy in Mani. From then on, new roads were constructed to bind all the towns to civilization. While this was the start to touristic development, mass tourism has not (yet) reached this part of the Peloponnese – and hopefully never will! For me, Mani is the most beautiful part we encountered here. It is different, wild, harsh, sometimes dismissive, but also authentic, relaxed and friendly.

What to do in (Inner) Mani

Touring the Mani villages

The unique combination of rugged landscapes, small villages with ancient tower houses (called pyrgospita) and remote, narrow beaches has its unique appeal. A good idea to get an impression of the Inner Mani is to go on a car tour. Here is a suggestion for a half- to full-day trip: Pirgos Dirou (Diros Caves) – Charouda (Temple of Taxiarchis) – Drialos (Church Agios Georgios) – Mezapos (Chalikia Beach) – Kato Gardenitsa (Church Naos tou Sotira) – Gerolimenas (beautiful coastal town, Restaurant Veludo, KaSeas Boutique Hotel) –

Vathia (tower houses) – Marmari Beach – Porto Kagio – Kokinogia (one-hour walk to Cape Tainaron Lighthouse) – drive back along the Mani east coast (towns with imposing tower houses: Lagia, Exo Nimfio and Flomochori / beach stops: Kokala Beach, Kontronas Beach).

Other things to do in Mani

We did not the above mentioned walk to Cape Tainaron but instead chose the one to Tigani Castle more northwest. And this was a rewarding thing to do! This estate in ruins sits on a spectacular peninsula that looks like a frying pan, which is actually its name in Greek. You have stunning views all the time, and you can roam around the ruins of a medieval fortress. Historians have varying opinions about this place (if it is the mysterious Grand Magne or something different). Anyway, it is fun exploring it a bit. Here is the link to this walk/hike, starting from the village of Agias Kiriakis. On your return, you could also do a detour to Church Panagia Agitria (maybe add another 50 minutes for walking).

Instead of making the above side trip, we shortly visited the village of Mezapos with its Chalikia Beach (see also above chapter). We had viewed it from Agios Kiriakis and wanted to see it up close. And we had two more places on our agenda which you should not miss on your Mani trip, Aeropoli

and Limeni.

he former is Mani’s capital and has a nice old town with its characteristic tower houses. Not far from it you find the port of Limeni, more a hamlet around an idyllic cove.

Our hotel: Aria Estate Mani, one of the best hotels on the Peloponnese Mani Finger

For quite some time we struggled to find a hotel to stay in style in the Inner Mani. As we were here at the beginning of November, many lodgings had already closed down for the season. Finally, we were fortunate to happen across Hotel Aria Estate! It is remotely situated on a hillside facing the sea, about 8 minutes by car either from Aeropoli and Limeni. What a gorgeous property it is! I was excited from the beginning when driving down the driveway.

And my enthusiasm lasted until our departure three nights later!

First of all, I adored the hotel’s fantastic setting and its tranquil vibe. Then I was fond of its layout and construction, an array of stone houses made in the typical Maniot architecture. It was built in 2018 and has 15 rooms. We opted for the top one-bedroom accommodation, the One Bedroom Superior Seaview Jacuzzi (48sqm, 340€ with breakfast per night). It is a dreamy place! It consists of a bedroom, a living room with a wet bar, a balcony and a terrace with a jacuzzi.

What a great thing to experience the sunset from here! I also liked the interiors, which are airy and all kept in bright colors. While the bathroom is not overly big, it was okay for the two of us.

The female hotel manager seemed to have a firm hand on the estate. She was always present to guide the staff (not all had a good command of English) and to take care of the guests. On site you also find two pools – one outdoor,

the other in the spa.

And there is a restaurant, more about it below.

Our restaurant: Horizon at Hotel Aria Estate Mani (Instagram), one of the best restaurants on the Peloponnese Mani Finger

It was impossible to find a similarly good dining spot as Restaurant Horizon at our hotel (see above) in the area. At least that was true at the beginning of November when some spots had already closed for the season. We dined here three times and found it to be one of the better eateries we had on our Peloponnese stay. And the (à la carte) breakfast at Horizon was definitely the best we experienced on our Greece journey (including Athens)!

On offer here is high-quality Mediterranean fare with a creative twist, here and there with a focus on local food. The dinner menu features starters just as sea bass carpaccio (15€) or local cheese croquettes (14€) and two salads (12€). For mains think of a regional chicken dish (18€) or shrimps with local pasta (20€). Desserts include their take of Bougatsa, a Greek custard pie, (10€) or more international choices just a chocolate mousse with ice cream (12€). When dining here three times in a row, there was enough variation in choices to prevent repetition.

The setting at Restaurant Horizon is nice with white linen-covered tables in the evening. Al fresco dining would have be an option on our stay, but we found it too chilly outside. And on one or two evenings, it also was quite cool inside as they let the entrance door as well as the terrace door open. Yet Horizon is not an exception in this regard, Greek people seem to love draughty restaurants … Staff was friendly and helpful but not always experienced, which however was not a major issue.

Looking forward and back to road trip in the Peloponnese in style (Part I, III & IV)

I started in the last post with an overview of the whole 17-day Peloponnese and Athens journey. In addition, i informed about some things to know when coming to this southernmost region of Greece, especially in fall. Plus, I began with part one of four in total, the “Peloponnese Thumb”, that is Nafplio and the Argolis region. As in all parts, I advised on some major sights including suggestions for walks/hikes. And as my husband and I look out for the best high-end hotels and restaurants everywhere we go, this topic is always covered in my reporting. Here in this very post, it was about the “Peloponnese East Finger” around Monemvasia and the “Peloponnese Middle or Mani Finger”. Part three will focus on the “Peloponnese West Finger” (Messenia)

and the mountain region of Arcadia.

Part four finally will go into a city-stay in Athens.

Date of stay: November 2024

Pin it for later

The post 14 days on the road in the Peloponnese/Greece and a short stay in Athens in style – PART II “East & Mani Fingers” first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post 14 days on the road in the Peloponnese/Greece and a short stay in Athens in style – PART II “East & Mani Fingers” appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Seeking sun and warmth in Europe late October, my husband and I headed to the Peloponnese. We wanted to spend a fortnight in this most southern part of mainland Greece, followed by a three-day stay in Athens. Imagine it was our first visit to Greece ever. So far, we had thought it to be too touristy. Yet word had reached us that the Peloponnese with its wealth of historic treasures was not so, at least in fall. Thus, we set out to discover this piece of land. And it did not disappoint! While it was not always easy to find opportunities to stay and dine in style here, we managed somehow. Find out in my posts to come about our itinerary, what to do and where to go for best upscale hotels and restaurants in the Peloponnese. Of course, Athens is also part of my reporting – no problems here if you are looking to treat yourself! After outlining the whole trip in this post, I start with part one, the “Peloponnese Thumb”.

Before delving into the topic, first a few lines about the Peloponnese as a travel destination. And what to expect when vacationing here in fall.

Peloponnese as a travel destination

The southernmost region of Greece, less than an hour from Athens, is known for many things. It features not only untamed nature, pristine beaches and remarkable mountain peaks and villages, but also has an exceptionally rich history and culture. Think in this context of great archaeological sites just as Olympia or Epidaurus dating back to the ancient Greeks. Yet there is more, Greece also experienced the Byzantine era or a Venetian interlude. And it endured long periods of Ottoman rule too. All this thousands of years of civilisation left behind remnants in the Peloponnese ready to be explored!

Main sights: “Fingers & Palm of the Peloponnese Hand”

Funnily enough, we all have a map of the Peloponnese. Just point your left hand to the ground, and there you have it. Your “Thumb” is Argolis with the beautiful town of Nafplio and Epidaurus. As to your “Index or East Finger”, it is where you find Monemvasia, a fortress town. Your “Middle Finger” is the Mani peninsula with its typical town houses and rugged nature. And your “Ring or West Finger” is the fertile Messenia with Kalamata, one of the bigger towns in the Peloponnese. As far as your small finger is concerned, it is beyond my knowledge where this is supposed to be. Finally, in your “Palm” lie Olympia, Sparta or Mystras, all historical sites, and the mountainous region of Arcadia.

When & how long to go to the Peloponnese

In terms of best travel time for the Peloponnese, April to June as well as September and October are good months. It is too hot in July and August, and high summer is the busiest season too. My husband and I went in the last days of October until mid November. The latter month is said to be often unstable weatherwise and is gradually getting worse. And I can confirm this. The first days were the warmest. The nights increasingly became colder, and the winds intensified. However, it was almost always sunny and warm enough in day time.

If you want to go to the Peloponnese in late fall, I suggest that you better chose the last two weeks in October. That comes with the additional benefit of more hotels still being open. And I find a fortnight the ideal period to explore Peloponnese’s main sights (the southern two thirds of the peninsula: “Fingers & Palm of the Peloponnese Hand”).

14 days on the road in the Peloponnese & 3 days (stationary) in Athens

Here is my Google Map of our Peloponnese and Athens itinerary complete with all the upscale hotels and (fine-dining) restaurants we were.

As to the Peloponnese part, it is about the best lodging we found and that was still open (many hotels close down for the season end of October). In terms of dining spots in the Peloponnese, you have to be aware that there is not much around that merits the name “fine dining” outside of cities and high-end hotels. So, I have included the best restaurants we encountered offering an overall good enough experience, especially food wise.

My husband and I flew into Athens, picked up a rental car and drove to our first destination, Nafplio (three nights). In case you only want to explore the Peloponnese without a (stationary) stay in Athens, there is also the option to fly into Kalamata (“West Finger”). After discovering “the Peloponnese Thumb” we drove on to Monemvasia, on the “Index or East Finger” (three nights). Next was the “Middle Finger” with the Mani peninsula (three nights). Our last stay by the Mediterranean coast was in Messenia, the “Peloponnese Ring or West Finger” (two nights) before heading inland. And this was to the mountainous Arcadia (three nights). When doing this we travelled via Olympia to get an impression of this extraordinary historic site.

Our last drive was from the Menalon highlands to the airport where we returned our car and grabbed a taxi to get to Athen’s downtown for a three-day city stay.

What is next in my Peloponnese & Athens reporting?

Now to some information about the individual stops on our Peloponnese itinerary. This includes a couple of sights and walking suggestions.  And you get details about where we stayed and dined, and this in style whenever possible. As to Athens, I only go into our luxury hotel and the three fine-dining restaurants we dined at. As there is quite a lot of material, I need to break my reporting down in four parts. I start in this blogpost with part one that covers the “Peloponnese Thumb” (what to do and best hotels/restaurants). The next one will be about the “Index or East Finger” and the “Middle or Mani Finger”. As to part three, I will go into the “Ring or West Finger” and Arcadia. And finally, in one more post I will address Athens.

From place to place in the Peloponnese itinerary, part I, “Peloponnese Thumb”

Nafplio & Argolis

Here it is about one of the most worth seeing towns in the Peloponnese, Nafplio. Yet also the surrounding area, the Argolis peninsula, has much to offer.

About the “Peloponnese Thumb”

On your way from the Athens airport to Nafplio, where you absolutely should stay because of its beauty, you can make a stop in Corinth. If you have half an hour to spare, take a quick look at the impressive Corinth Canal. In case you have more time, why not visit the ancient Corinth (we did not).

As to Nafplio, this first capital of the modern Greek state is a true gem! I have read that it is like a bigger version of the Plaka in Athens (old town), only more beautiful. And there is some truth in it. Think of gorgeous cobbled streets, a wealth of Venetian architecture or charming squares of every size. In its core you find the Syntagma Square,

which is not only vast and striking yet even paved in marble. Furthermore, there are three forts, from which you should visit the Palamidi Fortress

in particular. Plus, there is a great hike leading via the Palamidi Path

to Nafplio’s south, and this until the path comes to an end. Here is the link to the track on Outdooractive.

A must-do sight in Nafplio’s surround is the Epidaurus amphitheater, one of the best-preserved of Greece’s ancient sites, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. If you do a half-day trip, you can also visit a second such site, either Mycenae or Ancient Nemea. We opted for the lesser visited latter, which you could combine with a wine tasting in the area (we did not).

Our hotel: Navria Nafplio

When it comes to the best hotels in the “Peloponnese Thumb”, we did not look further than Nafplio. As this town is considered as its jewel, we absolutely wanted to stay here. There is the one or other luxury hotel in and around town, yet we did not think about choosing one of them. Either they do not get good reviews or are not in the historic old town. So, we opted for one of the many favourably rated boutique accommodations in town. In our case, it was Hotel Navria located on a small and relatively quiet square in the old town.

Right across the square there is its sister hotel, Aetoma, which also seems to be a good choice for demanding travelers. The lovely breakfast by the way, is available at Navria for both accommodations. And the two of them are only steps away from the bustling town center.

While Navria has modern interiors, its exteriors incorporate elements from the long gone by Ottoman period. As to rooms, six different ones are at your disposal. While many of them sound favourable, we went for the Suite. It features a balcony and a generous layout.

The bathroom is not big, but cleverly constructed with a pleasant walk-in shower and ample storage space.

Staff is extremely friendly and helpful, we felt very at ease here. And it was the least expensive room of our whole trip, it only cost us 165€ per night (with breakfast).

Our restaurants: Wild Duck, Valaora & Thyme, all in Nafplio

You have to know that Nafplio has lots of touristy restaurants, which are mostly traditional Greek taverns. Yet there are also some places which come close to what one understands under fine dining. This is especially true for Valaora, which is an upscale restaurant in a beautiful setting by the sea.

Also the service and the majority of our dishes, international food with a twist, were convincing.

When it came to our mains however, neither the Moussaka nor the Rooster Tortellini, both modern takes on the original receipts, were big throws. With the former, the aubergine was hardly recognizable and the meat subpar. As to the latter, the pasta dough was far too thick. And the prices were stiff compared to other restaurants in the area.

As to the second dining spot, Wild Duck served good contemporary creations

in pleasant surroundings.

Whereas I found the pricing okay, this was not so in terms of staff. When we showed up at the dining spot, they wanted to seat us outside, although we had a reservation – they did not ask about our preferences when we made it – and it was chilly. After lots of hesitation, they finally let us have seats inside.

Our third choice, Thyme, was the only one that was not in the town center but in Nafplio’s outskirts. We were nicely welcomed by the son, while his father is responsible for the kitchen. And the chef knows his job! There is only a small menu of European dishes with a contemporary touch, but everything we had was immaculately prepared and delicious.

Plus, it was good value for money. As to the ambiance, it was enjoyable with a modern flair.

Looking forth to road trip in the Peloponnese in style (part II to part IV)

After outlining a 14-day road trip itinerary in the Peloponnese and a three-day short stay in Athens, I went into part one of the voyage. That was about the “Peloponnese Thumb”, first of all the town of Nafplio (what to do and best hotels/restaurants). You have to know in this context that you have this southernmost piece of mainland Greece on your left hand. The next blogpost will be about two more of the “Peloponnese Fingers”. This is the “Index or East Finger” with the Monemvasia fortress

and the “Middle or Mani Finger”, which is a wild, rugged region. Part three covers the “Ring or West Finger”, Messenia, and the mountainous area of Arcadia, the “Peloponnese Palm”. Last, I inform about a city trip to Athens.

As far as the visit to Greece’s capital is concerned, my reporting will solely be about the luxury hotel we stayed and the three Michelin (starred) fine-dining restaurants we went. Regarding the others, I will let you know where to go for staying and dining in style (not always easy to find) but also what to do in the respective places. As my husband and I are avid walkers, I will provide some walking/hiking suggestions too.

Date of stay: November 2024

Pin it for later

The post 14 days on the road in the Peloponnese/Greece and a short stay in Athens in style – PART I outline & “Thumb” first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post 14 days on the road in the Peloponnese/Greece and a short stay in Athens in style – PART I outline & “Thumb” appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

One more trip lead my husband and me to northern Italy, this time to the Piedmont. Regarding the last two journeys in this area, find the details below. On our most recent voyage, it was basically about a two-stop Piedmont itinerary. One should be in the typical Piedmont with its hilly vineyards, the other in the Italian lake region just adjacent to Switzerland. We added two more halts to shorten the travel time from one place to another. As always when vacationing, we opted for luxury hotels and (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants as long as they offered value for money. This because we are not ready to pay ridiculous prices for staying and dining in style. And everywhere we went we were looking out for opportunities to walk and explore the area walking.

Looking back at former north Italy trips

Before coming to the itinerary of our recent Piedmont trip, here is some info on the mentioned last two journeys in the area.

North Italy trip 2023: Trentino-South Tyrol & Lombardy

We started the journey with two stays in the South Tyrol. On the one hand, we went to Dorf Tirol (Tirolo in Italian) above Meran (Merano in Italian). On the other hand, we ventured to the Sarntal (Sarentino valley in Italian) above Bozen (Bolzanzo in Italian). As you may have noticed, the South Tyrol is bilingual – German and Italian. Next was the Lake Garda further south. While its northern part is located in the Trentino, the place we went already belongs to the Lombardy. It is about the picturesque town of Gardone Riviera.

On return, we took a detour to the Lake Geneva region in the Swiss west. Precisely, we made a stop in Glion/Montreux.

North Italy trip 2021: Piedmont & Liguria

Our first stop in the Piedmont was not far away from Switzerland, in the Italian Lake region, and we opted for Orta San Giulio (Lake Orta). Then we proceeded to the “usual” Piedmont – rolling hills with vineyards – near Alba. At the time, we lodged in Santo Stefano Belbo, 30 minutes east from the mentioned regional capital. From here we went on to Liguria. Here we stayed in Alassio, the beach town on the so-called Italian Riviera.

Our way home led over France, we made halts in Vence, Les-Baux-de-Provence and in Vienne.

Now to our current Italy adventure.

North Italy trip 2024: 11-day road trip Piedmont & Swiss west trip itinerary

As mentioned, for our latest north Italy trip we had been longing for vines and lake. Here is my Google Map of it with all the (luxury) hotels we stayed and the (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants we went:

This time we started with a four-day stay in the wine growing area around Alba. We chose a hotel not so far away from the one we were on our last visit. Again it was half an hour by car away from Alba, but not in the eastern direction as last time but in the southern one. And it was in the town of Ceretto Langhe.

As it would have been quite a long trip from our home town, we inserted an intermediate stop about two thirds of the way. That was north of Turin in Caluso. Our second four-day visit was in Stresa on Lake Maggiore.

On our way home, we made a halt in the Vallée de Joux, a high valley in the Swiss Jura Mountains. It is situated not far from Lake Geneva in western Switzerland.

Now to some information about the individual places on our Piedmont itinerary. In addition, I also include some remarks about staying and dining in style here.

From place to place in the Piedmont & Swiss west

1. Caluso, north of Turin, 1st stop Piedmont itinerary

Caluso is a small town in the Metropolitan City of Turin in the Italian region Piedmont, located about 30 km/19 mi northeast of Turin. It has gained some notoriety because of the white wine grape Erbaluce that is primarily grown here. From what I read (and also tried) it makes good dry table, sweet and sparkling wines. In addition, Caluso has a nice medieval town center

and a tranquil environment (Lago di Candia: great circular walk).

Caluso is not exactly a tourist hotspot. My husband and I came here looking for a stopover between our home town and the Langhe wine region. And it delivered well in this respect with the fabulous one-star Michelin Restaurant Gardenia (update November 2024: Michelin listed) – I think we were the only foreigners on our dinner.

The female chef celebrates an amazing cuisine inspired by nature and with a high respect of the plant world.

And this in a beautiful 19th century building. Plus, we found a great bed and breakfast establishment, the brand new Villa Albaluce. It is a historic mansion with a spacious garden and  five suites (all with kitchen),

featuring 18th century parquet floors, frescoed vaults and antique furniture. On top of all that, staff was top notch. And it is only a few minutes away by foot from the above mentioned dining-spot.

2. Ceretto Langhe, south of Alba, 2nd stop Piedmont itinerary

I went into the typical Piedmont – sloping hills covered in grapevines – in a former post at some length. So, I will not offer more details about this area right now. I can only say this much: I found the Langhe wine region south of Alba even more beautiful than the already stunning one east of it. I think in this context of towns just as Serralunga d’Alba, Barolo or La Morra. Later on my blog, I will advise on some more activities in the area, in addition to the ones already mentioned in above post.

In terms of accommodation in the Langhe, we opted this time for Casa di Langa (my post). This hotel has not only an exceptional setting

but is also an architectural jewel. It opens up to a valley like an amphitheater, revealing a breathtaking view of the surrounding rolling hills dotted with villages and vineyards.

Casa di Langa is a fairly new property and features 42 modernly furnished rooms.

As always when traveling we try to dine at the best (Michelin) restaurants in the area – usually with an eye for value for money. And we made great finds in the area in this regard. We liked the dining experience at our hotel – Fàula Ristorante –

yet there is much more for fine-dining lovers in the surroundings. Come back later to check out my reporting on staying and dining in style in the Langhe wine region.

3. Stresa, Italian Lakes (Lake Maggiore) near Switzerland, 3rd stop Piedmont itinerary

The small town of Stresa is located on the western shores of Lake Maggiore, the longest of all Italian lakes. It has been a bathing resort since the late 18th century. The rather touristy place

is known for its lovely board walk, the splendid villas and the magnificent grand hotels from the Belle Époque period. And it is a perfect gateway for visiting the famous Borromean Islands.

At a later point of time, I will inform on things to do here in a separate blogpost.

Our main reason to choose Stresa above other spots in the Italian Lakes region was a newly opened luxury hotel. It is about Boutique Hotel Stresa (my review). This accommodation with 26 wonderful rooms

has a prime location just by the lake.

Furthermore, it is adjacent to the historic town center and five minutes by foot away from the jetty. Plus, it is a true beauty thanks to its successful architecture, a mix between old and new.

When it comes to fine dining in Stresa, LeBolle Restaurant at Boutique Hotel Stresa is a very good choice. You can have here contemporary Italian food with a twist either in its chic interiors or on the outdoor area. When doing the latter, make sure to make a reservation in one of the five bubbles, which is an enjoyable thing to do.

I have two more Michelin fine-dining recommendations for you in Stresa’s neighborhood. You will find all about staying and dining in Stresa in my detail report to follow on my blog,

4. Valleé de Joux (near Lake Geneva), Swiss west, side trip

On hour way home form our Piedmont itinerary, my husband and I made a stop in the Swiss west, precisely in the Valleé de Joux.

We have been in the area many years ago and wanted to revisit ever since. At the time, we liked the rugged and unspoilt valley nestled between Jura Mountain ranges. Now, as an upscale hotel has opened here not so long ago, we found that the right time for this undertaking has come. It is about Hotel des Horlogers (Watchmaker Hotel).

You can reach the hotel that is owned by a famous watchmaker company in about 40 minutes by car from Lake Geneva.

I must say that the property truly is a masterful engineering and design achievement.

And all the 50 guest rooms come with a stunning view of the Risoud forest.

While service at the reception was immaculate, the one at the restaurant was a bit uninspired. We had the Food Lovers package at their Michelin listed Brasserie Le Gogant, which included a four-course discovery meal. Food was good yet not overly inventive, given the place is overseen by a three-star Michelin chef.

Sadly, a booking at La Table des Horlogers (Carte Blanche du Chef) was not possible. Overall, we had a decent enough experience at Hotel des Horlogers, but we probably would not return.

What is next in my Italy’s Piedmont reporting

Whereas I will not go further into our two “stopovers” in Caluso/Piedmont and Valleé de Joux/western Switzerland, there will be more about the two main destinations on our Piedmont itinerary. These are the Langhe wine region around Alba and the town of Stresa on the Lake Maggiore. My reporting will include the two high-end accommodations – Casa di Langa near Alba and Boutique Hotel Stresa. I will also inform about the best (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants (Langhe, Stresa), both at the hotels and nearby. Finally, there will be blogposts about things to do in both places (Langhe, Stresa), especially for those who like walking as my husband and I do.

Date of stay: July 2024

Pin it for later

The post 11 days on the road in the Piedmont & western Switzerland in luxury first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post 11 days on the road in the Piedmont & west Switzerland in luxury appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Now it is to the details of a two-week Taiwan itinerary. My last post was about a one-week travel plan comprising the island’s north. If you have two weeks at your disposal, then you can also travel Taiwan’s south. Plus, you have the option to build in one more stay in the north. Such a travel plan allows you to take your time and to explore sights in the respective surroundings too. Again, I only included stops that ensure travel in style. That means places where you find options for staying at luxury hotels and dining at (Michelin) gourmet restaurants. Yet – as always – , I only considered establishments offering value for money.

There are six stops in total. Compared to the one-week itinerary that I described in my last post, there are three more. Two are in the south (Kenting National Park and Kaohsiung), one is in the north (a second Taipei stay). Find in the following my Google Map of a 17-day road trip in Taiwan that my husband and I did. It can be shortened to 14 days without any problems:

Overview on my Google Map of our 17-day Taiwan itinerary

As you could see, we started and ended the journey in Taipei with four stops in-between. The first stop was on the Island’s northeast, at the Taroko Gorge near the seaside town of Hualien. Then we traveled inland to Sun Moon Lake in the foothills of the Central Mountain Range. We continued towards south to the Kenting National Park. And before returning to Taipei, we had our one and only stay in a big city apart from Taipei, and this in Kaohsiung.

As I already went into the first three stops in my mentioned one-week travel plan, you find in this post about a two-week Taiwan itinerary only explanations to the last three ones (Kenting National Park, Kaohsiung and north Taipei). Again, I start with a short description of the respective town/region. Then I let you know what to do here in a few sentences. Finally, I go briefly into each of the high-end hotels we stayed and the (Michelin) fine dining spots we ate.

A 17-day Taiwan round trip with six stops in style

See details to stop 1 – 3 here

4. Kenting National Park (south, 2 nights)

About

The Kenting National Park occupies the entire southern tip of the country. And while Kenting is said to have the best beaches in Taiwan, they are subpar to those of typical beach destinations. Nonetheless, the area boasts a lovely coastal scenery and is well worth a full-day exploring.

Things to do here include: walk in the Sheding Natural Park with its huge coral rocks (volunteers guide you around if you wish), Sail “Nixon” Rock, Taiwan’s southernmost point, Longpan Park (great coastal views)

and Hengchun (old city wall with four ancient gates,

Old Street

with Patisserie Ce Moment).

Hotel: Gloria Manor

This is yet another property that has a connection to the former president Chiang Kai-shek. It used to be one of his presidential guesthouses. And this is easy to understand in light of the picturesque mountain and sea scenery you find here. The hotel is remotely located inside the Kenting National Forest Recreation Area, surrounded by tropical greenery.

Gloria Manor took over the site in 2012. The building convinces with minimalistic design that blends nicely into the natural setting. You find here 60 rooms in a range of categories. Yet it does have to be one with a sea view as this is probably the main attraction of staying here.

Breakfasts are excellent, you can make your choice out of several ones served on a tray.

And you can have it also in the pleasant outdoor area. Mu is the only restaurant on site, find some details below.

Restaurants: Mu Restaurant (at Hotel Gloria Manor)

At Gloria Manor’s Mu Restaurant you get excellent Taiwan cuisine with a modern twist. And the place strictly adheres to the principle “not in season, not on the menu”. The setting is relaxed yet still with an upscale touch. My husband and I dined here on both evenings and liked what we got. Good choices from the à la carte menu were Wonton Soup, Crab Omelet, Fried Rice with Pineapple & Dolphinfish, Mango Pomelo Sago or Baked Pudding.

There is also a set menu (1,680 TWD / 47 SFR/US$).

5. Kaohsiung (south, 3 nights)

About

Kaohsiung is Taiwan’s third most populous city and is home to the island’s largest port. While it long used to be an industrial city, it has been reorienting itself toward tourism as well as art and culture since since the turn of the millennium. This shows in the vast Pier-2 Art Center where former shipping warehouses were turned into shops and cafés. And there are museums, art installations and street art. I for one liked the dynamic vibe of Kaohsiung!

As to more classic sights here, the scenic Lotus Pond in the north of the city is an good place to go. It is known for its 20 temples or so along the shoreline and nearby.

And there is the Confucius Temple too. Another big name attraction in the area is the Fo Guang Shan Monastery, outside of town, which is the largest in all of Taiwan and quite a sight.

Last but not least, we used Kaohsiung for a day trip to Tainan. This is Taiwan’s original capital and still retains a traditional vibe. Go to the city center first (Confucius Temple, Hayashi Departement Store, Snail Alley & Shennong Street, two quaint streets;

then proceed to the Anping District (Anping Fort, Anping Old Street, Anping Treehouse).

Hotel: Silks Club

Silks Club is one kind of a cool, urban hotel, attracting business and leisure travelers alike. It is located in the emerging neighborhood of Qianzhen, opened in 2017. Already the sleek lobby with the reflecting pool of water impresses.

And it continues when it comes to the rooms. The 147 units have an average size of 66 sqm, floor-to-ceiling windows and oversized bathrooms.

The place for breakfast is In Jade Lounge – you get it on a tray plus there is small buffet, and it is a tasty affair.

You can also come here for drinks in the evening. The restaurant, a branch of the Japanese Ukai Tei, is divided into several sub-spots (Teppanyaki, Kaiseki & Grill). Find more info on the former below.

Restaurants: Ukai-tei Teppanyaki (at Silks Club), Marc L³ & Sho

For our Kaohsiung food adventures, my husband and I chose three Michelin dining spots. One even has a Michelin star (Sho), two are on the 50Best Discovery list (Sho & Marc L³).

I start with the “hotel restaurant”, Ukai-tea Teppanyki, where they serve a Wagyu menu (Rump 4,800 TWD, Sirloin 5,800 TWD, Tenderloin 6,500 TWD). We opted for the Sirloin (161 SFR/US$) and could witness quality ingredients being cooked on the iron plate right before our eyes. And we even had a chef who exclusively cooked for the two of us! That was quite an experience, especially when it was up to the preparation of the abalone (from live to death).

Our favorite dinner in Kaoshiung and probably on our whole Taiwan trip was the one at Marc L³. The three L’s stand for Live x Liberal x Limitless. Reservations here are difficult to get, and we had to pay our meal in advance (which was not a no-brainer to arrange). Yet, once seated at the counter (9 seats only), we were in for culinary magic! Unique French fare was prepared in front of us, and this as eight-course menu (3,960 TWD / 112 SFR/US$) in a relaxed ambiance.

And the chef is such a nice guy too, communicative, approachable and amiable! What a great evening we had here!

Dining at Sho, an outpost of the Tokyo famed Den Restaurant, was a epicurean highlight as well. We were treated to an exquisite Japanese meal with creative touches. Quite in contrast to Marc L³, it took place in a somewhat chilly ambiance. The place – a counter with 14 seats – had an almost clinical appearance. Notwithstanding that, we truly enjoyed the tasting menu (3,500 TWD + rice upgrade 700 TWD / 119 SFR/US$). And if you are wondering about the rice upgrade, go for it! It is a traditional rice dish cooked in an iron pot called a kama, once with Wagyu and the other time with scallops.

6. Taipei (Beitou District, north of the center, 3 nights)

About

Our second stay in Tapei was in Beitou, the capital’s most northern district. While it is not too far away from Taipei’s center (half an hour by MRT), it has a less urban feel. The hilly area is known for its hot springs and is close to beautiful nature.

We had planned to explore Taiwan’s north from Beitou. Yet we only managed to do one such day trip because of not so good weather. And this was to Jiufen,

a seaside town in the lush mountains northeast of Taipei (book a Taiwan tea time at Jiufen Artist Teahouse, expensive yet worthwhile;

escape the crowds by hiking the Jinguashi Aqueduct Trail). We left out the second one to Yangmingshan National Park on Taipei’s northern fringe. Instead, we headed to central Taipei once again, to the University District. And it was lively, even on a Sunday. And do not miss the sights in Beitou: Thermal Valley, Puji Temple,

Beitou Library, Xinbeitou Historic Station.

Hotel: Grand View Resort Beitou

While Beitou is not the first address for first timers to Taipei seeking to explore the city to the fullest, it was ideal for our purposes. Having already done the capital’s major sights, we longed for a quiet place to spend our last few days in Taiwan. Staying here is the best of both worlds: being in relative proximity to Taipei’s center and at the same surrounded by nature.

Grand View Resort Beitou is the most luxurious among the many hot-spring hotels that make use of the sulfurous hot-spring water that bubbles from the ground. The relatively large and modern property (opened in 2011) stands high on a slope with beautiful views of Beitou and beyond.

All the 66 guest rooms are spacious and come with hot-spring bathrooms, allowing a private soaking experience. I think the accommodations could use a little touch up, especially the wet area (the moisture from the hot springs does not help).

Breakfasts are really good here, served on a tray. And they even offered another variety on our third day. There are three restaurants, from which we tried out two (we did not eat at Aqua Deck with light continental food). Find more details in the next section.

Restaurants: Chinese Cuisine & C’est Bon (both at Hotel Grand View Resort)

We had dinner every evening at Hotel Grand View Resort Beitou. As I had read good things about the Chinese Cuisine – it is Michelin listed – , we went there twice.

One evening, we tried out the French place, C’est Bon.

While both offered fine food, we found C’est Bon better. We had a lovely dinner here indulging in immaculately prepared French food with a Taiwanese twist. Out of the four set menus, we ordered the one with Boston Lobster (3,080 TWD / 87 SFR/USD$), and we relished it.

As to the Chinese place, we had a not so good dining experience on our first evening. Whereas the food was good (we had opted for à la carte), service and setting were less so. Everything was better on our second dinner – we had the Vegetarian Set Menu (2,280 TWD / 64 SFR/US$). Yet C’est Bon has our love!

Looking back and ahead on my Taiwan journey

The start made some considerations to bear in mind when planning a (luxury) Taiwan trip (my post), followed by a proposal for one-week itinerary here. This is actually the first part of the journey my husband and I did on this island. It includes the three major travel highlights in this country, Taipei, Taroko Gorge and Sun Moon Lake. As luxury traveler and  fine dining lover, I also give recommendations as to where to stay and dine in style. In addition, I go into what to do in all theses places, plus some ideas for side trips. In this very post, you get the same thing, yet for the second part of our trip. Taken together, you have info on our original 17-day itinerary (that you can shorten to a 2-week Taiwan itinerary). Next on my blog, you will find out about my personal hotel and restaurant highlights in Taiwan in some more details.

Date of stay: April 2024

Pin it for later

The post Taiwan in style, a 2-week road trip itinerary first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Taiwan in style, a 2-week road trip itinerary appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

While my last post went into general considerations to make when planning a Taiwan trip, this one is about a concrete one-week itinerary. When my husband and I toured beautiful Formosa – as it was called by its discoverers – , we actually had 17 days at our disposal (for the whole island). Yet, you can shorten the journey to one week (north only). This still allows you to see the island’s three major highlights – Taipei, Taroko Gorge and Sun Moon Lake. And my one-week proposal is about a Taiwan trip in style, meaning staying in luxury hotels and dining in (Michelin) gourmet restaurants (if available).

Before coming to the details of the three individual stops, here my Google Map of this one-week Taiwan trip.

Overview on my Google Map of a 1-week Taiwan itinerary

No Taiwan trip is complete without exploring its capital of Taipei. While I put it as first destination on my Google Map, you can of course also do it at the end of the journey. The second stop is on the Island’s northeast, at the Taroko Gorge near the seaside town of Hualien. Then you travel inland to Sun Moon Lake in the foothills of the Central Mountain Range before returning to Taipei.

I start with a short description of the respective place. Then I let you know what to do here in a few sentences. Last but not least, I go briefly into a high-end hotel and some nearby (Michelin) fine dining spots.

A 1-week Taiwan round trip with three stops in style

1. Taipei (Songshan District, near the city center, 3 nights)

About

Taipei is a must for every Taiwan traveler. You find here a fascinating mix of Chinese, Japanese, indigenous and western influences. And although it is a deeply urban place, nature is never too far away. So, it is the ideal starting and/or ending point for your island exploring.

When it comes to activities, Taipei 101 for a view of the city and the Elephant Mountain for a view of Taipei 101 are musts for first timers to Taipei. Also the political Taipei around the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall has to be on every traveler’s agenda.

Further things to do are the Dihua Old Street,

The Dalongdong Baoan Temple

and the nearby Confucius Temple.

Hotel: Mandarin Oriental Taipei

Before setting off on our Taiwan round trip, we lodged at the Mandarin Oriental in the Songshan District. This business district (financial industry) is an okay location for exploring Taipei, however not the most ideal one. Most sights are in the following districts: Zhongzheng, Wanhua, Datong, Xinyi and Da’an. And Songshan is slightly too far north and east compared to the before mentioned ones. Yet, you are close to a MRT station and once on the subway, you get everywhere quickly enough.

As to the hotel, it is opulent indeed. While being a newly built complex (opened in 2014 together with THE ARCADE, a shopping center), it is reminiscent of Medieval European architecture in an eclectic style.

The 303 guest rooms are more spacious than at its competitors. They are classically furnished with contemporary touches and boast generous marbled bathrooms.

And you get a fabulous breakfast at Café Un Deux Trois, a modern buffet style restaurant. Service is as excellent as you might expect it with this prestigious hotel group. And rates are affordable enough, in contrast to many other MO hotels in Europe.

Restaurants: Holt & Hosu

UPDATE: Restaurant Holt’s website is no longer available

We did not have dinner at Mandarin Oriental Taipei – except some small bites in the M.O. Bar after a late arrival on our first day in Taiwan (which were good).

Instead we had decided on two Michelin listed restaurants in the adjacent neighborhood.

Holt is a one-star Michelin restaurant offering exquisite contemporary European food. On our evening, they still served creations by Canadian chef Jeffery Downs, although he had already left for good in the direction of his home country. We were told that they are now in a rebranding process.

The tasting menu we got (3,980 TWD / 112 SFR/US$) was one of the trip’s highlight food wise delivering very high quality.

While Holt was really great yet very European, we were keen on trying food prepared in a more Taiwanese way. So, we had opted for Hosu, a modern Taiwanese dining spot, which is Michelin listed. And we were delighted by this cute little place whose name means “Good Island”. They served a tasting menu (2,880 TWD / 81 SFR/US$) that surprised at every turn.

2. Taroko Gorge (northeast, 2-3 days)

Currently largely closed due to earthquake in April 2024!

About

Taroko Gorge is one of Taiwan’s top scenic attractions. It is a steep valley created by the Liwu river and makes part of the Taroko National Park. The first 18 km/11 mi of Highway 8, coming from Taiwan’s east coast, are what is known as Taroko Gorge. The thing to do here are hikes of various lengths. Usually one full day is enough to get quite a good insight. My husband and I stayed three nights here, and this right inside the gorge.

As to actual things to do, be advised that usually one or more sights or trails are closed (it is a geologically active site). So, check what is open before you go. We did the following activities (on one full day): Swallow Grotto (short walk), Buluowan Suspension Bridge (crossing the bridge only), Eternal Spring Shrine Trial (closed, you could only walk to the first Shrine), Baiyang Trail to Water Curtain Cave (we did not go in, one and a half hour),

Lushui Trail (only a short part, closed after Small Cave).

The second day, we made a day trip to the Hualien area and a bit more in the south direction. It lead us along the east coast to Qixingtan Beach, Qizingtan (quaint seaside town), Baqi Viewpoint (nice),

Jiqi Beach, Fengbin Skywalk (closed) and Xin She Rice Terraces. Then we returned inland via the towns of Guangfu, Fenglin and Shoufeng. Here we made a side trip to Liyu Lake before going back to the Taroko Gorge.

Hotel: Silks Place Taroko

Closed until mid 2024 due to earthquake in April 2024!

As announced, the hotel is located within the Taroko Gorge. Precisely, it is in Tianxiang, a small village at the top of the gorge, about one hour from Hualien City. If you value the best possible situation for exploring the Taroko Gorge, then you are right here. The property used to be an official government guest house under the regime of president Chiang Kai-shek. In 2010, it opened after a renovation as Silks Place Taroko.

While the hotel’s exteriors are not necessarily a feast for the eyes, its interiors are nice, kept in a contemporary style. The 160 rooms are split over two floors, the Retreat Floor and Resort Floor. The former are more luxurious and offer access to the top floor Retreat Lounge where complimentary snacks and drinks are served all day.

As a Retreat Floor guest, you can have breakfast at either the Wellesley Buffet or the Retreat Lounge (served on a tray). For dinner, you can choose between the mentioned Wellesley Buffet or the Chinese Restaurant. Details to both of them follow in the next section.

Restaurants: Mei Yuan & Wellesley Buffet (both at Hotel Silks Place Resort)

As to the food at Hotel Silks Place Taroko, it was not the best we experienced on our Taiwan trip yet still decent enough. We had opted to be on half board and had to choose where we wanted to have dinner twice. As we do not like buffet restaurants, we went to the Chinese restaurant Mei Yuan on two evenings. And we had Shabu Shabu Hot Pot both times, yet we did not mind. This because it was prepared with good quality ingredients (which are boiled in a pot with soup in front of you).

When it comes to the Wellesley Buffet, we were quite a bit underwhelmed by the experience. Again, the quality of food was high and there was a wide range of culinary options. And the staff ensured that the buffet was kept immaculately.

Yet, it was like being in a bee house, with guests buzzing around and voices overlapping in every direction. It was not like something I expected from a five-star property.

3. Sun Moon Lake (center, 2-3 days)

About

Sun Moon Lake, at the foothills of the Central Mountain Range, is the island’s largest body of water. It is at an altitude of 762 m/2,500 ft and a hugely popular destination. And it is indeed a beautiful scenic view.

There are two lakeside towns, Shuishe village (more touristy) and Ita Thao (home of the Thao aboriginal tribe).

If you wonder what to do here, you can go boating, hiking, cycling and stand-up paddle boarding. However, swimming is not allowed (except at the annual mass swim). As to sights, visit the Wenwu Temple (view from the grounds above it towards the lake is splendid),

walk up to Ci En Pagoda (climb up to the top of it for the view) and go to the Antique Assam Tea Farm (self-guided tour, café & shop).

In case you have two full days in Sun Moon Lake as we had, consider a day trip to the Alishan High Mountain tea fields. Here Taiwan’s most famous tea (Oolong) grows. A good place to spend  a day is the small mountain village of Shizhuo. You can make the most beautiful hikes on the Shizhuo Trails System,

buy tea at the Lin Yuan Tea Factory (oldest tea grower in the area) and make a side trip to another village, Fenqihu (old street).

Hotel: The Lalu Sun Moon Lake

This is yet a former official government guest house of president Chiang Kai-shek. After extensive renovations, it was opened as a luxury hotel in 2002. And this is quite a property! It occupies a peninsula next to the Shuishe village. The hotel spans three buildings that blend harmoniously with the surrounding forested hillside. You have fantastic lake views from almost everywhere at the hotel. It is of a timeless Zen-like design.

All the 96 rooms except some stand-alone villas face the lake

and are exceptionally roomy.

Breakfast is served in the Oriental Brasserie and consists of a huge buffet with a diverse food offer, although it is not so geared towards western tastes. In terms of dining, five restaurants are at your disposal, although some only cater for room guests and member. Find out more about how it is dining at their two flagship dining-spots below.

Restaurants: The Lake View Chinese Restaurant, The Japanese Restaurant (both at The Lala) & KEN CAN by Ken Chan (at Hotel Fleur de Chine)

Both, the Lake View Chinese Restaurant and The Japanese Restaurant, were not as good as I had hoped for. While both offered good food, other aspects were not that satisfying. As far as the Chinese place (à la carte) is concerned, neither the banquet hall-like setting nor the service – we were poorly advised – were persuasive.

However, the Japanese spot (set menu at 3,600 TWD / 101 SFR/US$ with U.S. beef fillet) has an attractive setting (no view). When it comes to service, it was not much better than its Chinese counterpart (not many explanations to the food).

The good news in the Sun Moon Lake area is that there is an excellent gourmet restaurant around at the competitor hotel of Fleur de Chine. It is about KEN CAN by Ken Chan.

It is the second spot of this three-star Michelin chef at Hotel Palais de Chine in Taipei. If you are a foodie and have only one evening in the area, then dine here! We were delighted by the creative Cantonese set menu (3,980 TWD / 112 SFR/US$) as well as the courteous and informative service.

Looking back and ahead on my Taiwan journey

While this post went into a one-week itinerary of a Taiwan trip in style, the next is dedicated to a two-week one. Whereas the former only goes to the island’s north – yet covers the country’s three major highlights – , the second brings you to whole Taiwan. This longer journey has the same stops as the before mentioned Taiwan one-week itinerary plus three more. I started my reporting on this island with some considerations to make when planning a luxury trip to this island (my post). Two more blogposts to follow will highlight my personal highlights in terms of high-end lodging and (Michelin) fine dining restaurants.

Date of stay: April 2024

Pin it for later

The post Taiwan in style, a 1-week road trip itinerary first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Taiwan in style, a 1-week road trip itinerary appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

As a significant stage in the life of my husband and mine is about to come to an end – more info to follow later this year – , we  treated us to a special journey. It is about a once in a lifetime trip to Chile. We had thought hard about where to go in South America. After visiting Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands a few years ago, we had been a bit unsure where to head next. Brazil seemed too dangerous for us, Peru rather over-run by tourists. So, we opted for Chile. And this mainly because of its many natural wonders. As always when traveling we were looking for a luxury trip to Chile. While we usually try to avoid overspending when vacationing, we miserably failed here – so much I can tell you already. But first things first.

I start with some thoughts about where to go in Chile for luxury-minded globetrotters and then come to the actual itinerary.

Traveling Chile in style

While we first thought we had had plenty of time (20 days) to explore Chile, we soon found out that this was not necessarily the case. Out of four highlights – Atacama Desert, Patagonia, Easter Island and Lake District – , we had to leave away the latter two. First of all, we “lost” three days because we had a stopover in Buenos Aires.

We opted for this not only because of this city’s beauty but also due to less flight costs when doing so (minus a bit more than 2,000 US$ for two). And second, we longed for a non-rushed itinerary. Having said that we wanted to see different parts of Chile, not only one. Yet Patagonia is usually a must for every Chile traveler boasting varied landscapes with impressive glaciers, bizarre rock formations, blue lakes and extensive steppes.

Patagonia (south Chile, from Puerto Montt to Cape Horn) luxury trip

You have to know that you can easily spend four weeks in Patagonia without seeing it all. It is said that you need about two weeks to do the mayor things here, and this in a quick way. As you might know, Patagonia has a harsh climate. As my husband and I are not too much into spending lots of time at such latitudes, we limited our time here to five days. This is about the minimum time you should come and only allows you to explore one place. My husband and I chose Patagonia’s crown jewel. This is about the Torres del Paine National Park in Southern Patagonia (see post about luxury hotels here). You can reach it by flying into Puerto Natales from Santiago in just over three hours. Then you have to drive another one and half hours to get to the national park’s entrance.

A second Chile destination: Atacama Desert (north Chile, from Copiapó to Peruvian border)

If you want to combine Patagonia with a second destination in Chile – and if you like nature – , then the Atacama Desert is your best option (see post about luxury hotels here). While the Lake District also seems to be worthwhile traveling, Atacama is something special. It is not only the driest nonpolar desert in the world but also features diverse landscapes including geysers, lagoons, volcanoes and crusty hills. As to Easter Island, you have to take into account a flight of five and a half hours in order to get there. To enjoy the island’s cultural heritage and natural beauty to the full, I suppose you should plan at least a four-day stay. So, you need almost one week for this undertaking.

Thus, we went for Patagonia and the Atacama Desert. And to be honest, both of them are not exactly off the beaten path. They suffer from overtourism, especially the place we chose in Patagonia (Torres del Paine National Park). I fully realized this only after our journey. Yet, also in the hindsight, we would make the same choices. The Lake District, the most viable alternative to South Patagonia, is considered as “Chilean Switzerland”. And we as Swiss not necessarily need more Switzerland when traveling.

Santiago & Valparaiso as urban complements to Patagonia & Atacama Desert

Around the two nature highlights of Patagonia and the Atacama Desert we built in a number of urban stays. On the one hand, we were three times in Santiago (post about staying & dining in style) – once at an airport hotel as you cannot fly directly from the Atacama Desert to Patagonia.

On the other hand, we made a three-day visit to Valparaiso (post about staying & dining in style) – a one and a half hour drive away from Santiago.

This beautiful port city is Chile’s second largest and known for its colorful houses built on the many hills that surround it – and Valparaiso is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

In total, we had five days in Santiago and three days in Valparaiso. That is a lot of time, but as mentioned, we were looking for a non-rushed itinerary. You can easily reduce the Santiago stay to three days – you probably need one of them for a stopover between the Atacama Desert and Patagonia. As to Valparaiso, two days might be enough to see the mayor sights. We had thought about exploring the wine regions near Santiago. Yet we did not come across a suitable hotel, and so we let it be.

After setting the scene as to this luxury Chile trip, I jump into the details of our Buenos Aires and Chile itinerary.

My Google Map of Chile & Buenos Aires in style, a non-rushed 20-day itinerary 

My Google Map illustrates the 20-day journey to Chile and Buenos Aires my husband and I undertook in the first half of November 2023.

You find here all the luxury hotels (Patagonia, Atacama Desert, Santiago de Chile, Valparaiso and Buenos Aires) we stayed

and the foodie restaurants (Santiago de Chile, Valparaiso and Buenos Aires) we dined,

complete with pictures. In addition, I included all the activities we did,

again with photos.

As far as our stays in Patagonia around Puerto Natales and in the Atacama Desert in the San Pedro area are concerned, I listed all the half and full days trip guided by the hotels we stayed.

With regard to the cities we visited (Buenos Aires, Santiago and Valparaiso), I indicated the routes we took to explore them (self-guided).

In the following, there is also a travel plan of this luxury Chile trip with the number of nights we spent at the respective location (plus hotel).

• 3 nights in Buenos Aires (Park Hyatt Buenos Aires)
• 2 nights in Santiago (The Singular Santiago)
• 4 nights in San Pedro de Atacama (Awasi Atacama)
• 1 night in Santiago (airport, Holiday Inn Santiago)
• 2 nights in Puerto Natales (The Singular Patagonia)
• 3 nights in Torres del Paine National Park (Tierra Patagonia)
• 3 nights in Valparaiso (Casa Higueras)
• 2 nights in Santiago (The Singular Santiago)

What is next about Chile & Buenos Aires

While I provided an overview of our Chile and Buenos 20-day luxury trip in this blogpost, my next posts will be about the details of the respective stops we did. When doing so, I will focus on the hotels and restaurants we visited. Most of them were high-end, as it was a luxury Chile trip. At one point or another, I will also cast a look at activities, yet these will no be at the center of my attention. Instead, refer to My Google Map of Chile & Buenos Aires in style where I have listed all the things we did, complete with (numbered) pictures.

My Chile short series will cover following topics:

• Patagonia (my post): Hotel The Singular Patagonia (half board) and Hotel Tierra (all-inclusive)
• Atacama Desert (my post): Hotel Awasi Atacama (all-inclusive)
• Santiago (my post): Hotel The Singular Santiago and three foodie restaurants
• Valparaiso (my post): Hotel Casa Higueras and three high-end dining spots
• Buenos Aires (my post): Hotel Park Hyatt Buenos Aires and three gourmet restaurants

Date of stays: November 2023

Pin it for later

The post Chile & Buenos Aires in style, a non-rushed 20-day itinerary first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Chile & Buenos Aires in style, a non-rushed 20-day itinerary appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Yet another road trip in north Italy and west Switzerland was on my husband’s and my agenda this late summer. And this after already doing one to Italy’s north (and France’s south) in 2021 (see my post). But this region in Italy has so much to offer in terms of great destinations, luxury hotels and Michelin (starred) dining spots. And contrary to our last journey, we went more east this time, to Trentino-South Tyrol and Lombardy. Before coming to details where we were headed (this and the last trip), some info on our travel focus. My husband and I like to travel in style. That means looking for high-end lodging and Michelin fine dining wherever we get to. Yet we attach great importance to not paying exorbitant prices.

Now to the itineraries as announced.

North Italy & west Switzerland 14-day road trip itinerary

For the itinerary of our last trip in the area, check out my correspondent post. It went to northern Italy and southern France in 11 days. As to the Italian part, we started in the Piedmont (Lake Orta and around Alba) and continued to the Italian Riviera (Alassio). After crossing the border to France, we headed first to Vence (French Riviera), then to the Provence (near Les Baux-de-Provence). The last stop before returning to Switzerland was in Vienne, south of Lyon.

This time, we began our journey in the Trentino-South Tyrol (Italian: Trentino-Alto Adige). Find here my Google Map of it.

Our first two destinations were in the South Tyrol. Dorf Tirol (Italian: Tirolo) above Meran (Italian: Merano)

made the start – not to be confused with the Austrian region of the same name! You might have already noticed it, the South Tyrol is bilingual (German and Italy), not so the Trentino. Next was the nearby Sarntal (Italian: Sarentino valley)

above Bozen (Italian: Bolzano). And the last stop in Italy were the Italian Lakes, precisely Lake Garda.

While its northern part is still in the Trentino-South Tyrol region, the place we went – Gardone Riviera (hotel/restaurants) – is already in the Lombardy (Italian: Lormbardia). The final destination of our trip was the Lake Geneva region, in the western part of Switzerland, exactly Glion/Montreux.

From place to place in north Italy & west Switzerland

As my husband and I like to travel in style – without losing sight of value for money -, we made sure to stay at upscale hotels and to dine at gourmet restaurants, preferably Michelin listed or starred places. This was not really a difficult thing to do as north Italy and west Switzerland has quite a choice for lovers of fine lodging and dining.

I always begin with a short description of the respective town/region and continue with providing some brief information on the high-end hotel we stayed and on the fine dining spot(s) we ate in this place. Sometimes, I will also mention some other places to stay and dine in style in the area that might be worth trying out.

1. Tirolo above Merano, Trentino-South Tyrol

1.1. About Tirolo

Tirolo is located above Merano, the hub here. As to the latter, it is small yet fine spa town in the heart of the South Tyrol. Actually, it is the second largest city in the South Tyrol (about 40,000 inhabitants). This medieval town has been a popular place to go since Empress Elisabeth of Austria (Sissi) started coming here. And she did this especially because of its spa and its almost Mediterranean climate. Lots of buildings, parks and promenades stem from this time.

And if you like walking, Merano and its surroundings is known for its abundance of Waalwege, trails alongs irrigation canals.

As far as Tirolo is concerned, it also is steeped in culture and history. You find here and around it some notable castles, fortresses and churches, from which the Tyrol Castle is the most prominent. Otherwise, the small village (about 2,500 inhabitants) draws lots of vacationeers in search of sun, panoramic vistas and hiking opportunities.

You can reach Merano from here in a short drive either by car or by bus. There is also a chairlift connecting these two places.

1.2. Which hotel to choose as demanding guest in Tirolo

There is a huge selection of luxury hotels in the Merano area to choose from. After having stayed here several times in the past, I have identified two of the best (see also my correspondent post). While we tried out a “new one” on our last stay, this time we returned to the one we knew from two previous stays. And I have to say that this luxury hotel is hard to beat! The latest renovation (2021) made it a state-of-the-art property with all the amenities you can think of. It is about Hotel Castel in Tirolo. It also hosts the one and only two-star Michelin restaurant in the Merano region. A post to come will go into more details of this stunning lodging.

1.3. Where to go for great Michelin listed (starred) restaurants in Tirolo

I just mentioned it, you do not have to leave your hotel in case you stay at the Castel in Tirolo when looking for best fine dining in the area. This is because the top place in this respect is on site. It is about Restaurant Castel Fine Dining, a Michelin two-starred establishment, and this since 2010 (formerly Trenkerstube).

When being a hotel guest at Hotel Castel, you are on half board – there is no other noteworthy (Michelin) fine dining in Tirolo anyway. And this arrangement allows you to enjoy exquisite food without even visiting the mentioned Michelin starred Restaurant Castel Fine Dining.

Notwithstanding that, when being a fine food lover, I highly recommend dining here once during your stay. This gives you not only the opportunity to indulge in chef Gerhard Wieser’s signature dishes but also to check out one of the most beautiful dining rooms I have ever encountered (only five tables and all have this tremendous view of Merano from high above). More about dining at Hotel Castel and at Restaurant Castel Fine Dining follows in the above mentioned future post.

2. Sarentino valley above Bolzano, Trentino-South Tyrol

2.1. About the Sarentino valley

The Sarentino valley stretches northwards from Bolzano, South Tyrol’s capital and its largest city (about 110,000 inhabitants). When coming from Merano, I recommend to make a short stop in Bolzano to check out its beautiful old town.

This especially given the fact that you only need about one hour for your drive from Merano to the hamlet above Sarnthein (Sarentino), the valley’s capital, where our choice of hotel is located. Bolzano – as Merano – was influenced by Germanic and Italian currents, yet I personally find that it feels more Italian than Merano.

Just a few kilometers/miles away from the bustling regional center of Bolzano you reach the idyllic village of Sarentino (2,300 inhabitants). This is another world, full of wild nature and far off the beaten track. And the area is great for hiking with a view. A great panoramic vista awaits you – among others the entire spectrum of the Dolomites, a UNESCO world natural heritage.

While you are in the village of Sarentino at 980 m/3,315 ft above sea level, you have to climb further  up in order to come to Prati/Auen where you find the hotel I am going to inform you about. And the road to it is narrow!

2.2. Where to stay in the Sarentino valley as discerning traveler

First and foremost, there is one place in the area that makes people loving the finer things in life to come here. And this is Hotel Terra The Magic Place! Once you have the before mentioned narrow road behind you, you made it to this remote spot at 1,622 m/5,322 ft above sea level. There are a public parking lot (for hikers), a ski hut and this amazing hotel you would not think finding here. It is a Relais & Châteaux property that has seen several renovations and expansions since 2010, a true gem surrounded by unspoiled nature. And imagine it not only offers immaculate lodging but also a two-star Michelin dining-spot! If you want to know more about this place, one of my next blogpost will go into it.

In case you are looking for prime lodging around the village of Sarentino

and nearer to Bolzano, Hotel Bad Schoergau might be a good option too. I have not been here but I liked what I saw when checking it out on the internet.

2.3. Where to dine in style in the Sarentino valley

What draws hard-core foodies to the Sarentino valley, is of course the mentioned Michelin two-starred Restaurant Terra at Hotel Terra The Magic Place high above the village of Sarentino. You will find more info about it in my post about the hotel in question soon on my blog.

Yet there is more of fine dining in the village of Sarentino. On the one hand, it is about the Michelin listed dining spot at the already highlighted Hotel Bad Schoergau, the Ristorante Alpes/La FuGa. On the other hand, you find a Michelin eatery in town too, Restaurant Braunwirt. I have not dined at either of them, so I cannot comment, but the reviews are good.

3. Gardone Riviera on Lake Garda, Lombardy

3.1. About Gardone Riviera

Before coming to the town of Gardone Riviera, a few words about Lake Garda. It is one of the Italian Lakes, a group of larges lakes on the south side of the Alps, all of them glacial ones. And Lake Garda is not only the largest of them but also in whole Italy. On its western shore, you find the Lemon Riviera – from Salò to Limone. This stretch along the lake has a mild, Mediterranean-like climate, so even citrus fruits grow here.

As to Gardone Riviera – on the Lemon Riviera – , it is favorably located for many sights. Not only boasts it some important ones on site – Il Vittoriale degli Italiani (a Gesamtkunstwerk of house, monument and fantasy)

or the Heller Botanical Garden,

it is close to many others. I mention here for example Salò, the region’s town with the nicest Lungolago (lakeside promenade)

or Sirmione, THE tourist attraction in the area (expect masses of people here) with the Scaliger Castle (an extraordinary lakeside fortification)

or the Grottoes of Catullus (a striking example of a Roman villa, now in ruins).

While Gardone Riviera is not large (it only has a bit more than 2,500 inhabitants), it has everything that makes a real place – a nice Lungolago, a small old quarter by the lake, an old town on the hillside. And its laid-back ambiance is a plus too. And it is even considered as one of the most beautiful villages in Italy (part of I Borghi più Belli d’Italia).

3.2. Which luxury hotel to choose in Gardone Riviera

You find quite a number of upscale hotels in Gardone Riviera. Many of them are late 19th, early 20th century properties. Some line the lake front, others are located hillside, overlooking the lake. At the end, we had fluctuated between Hotel Bella Riva and Grand Hotel Fasano. Finally, we decided for the latter, and this for various reasons. First, it is a wonderful old building in a stately park among ancient trees, frontally facing the lake. Second, it is closer to the town center. Third, it has a Michelin listed restaurant on site.

And we were not disappointed by our choice. It is such a beautiful property, a fantastic example of neoclassical style architecture. The building was constructed in 1888 as a hunting lodge for the Austrian imperial family. And it was declared a National Heritage Site by the Ministry of Cultural Heritage. The Fasano, part of the Leading Hotels of the World, also underwent some renovations recently. So, we enjoyed among other things an updated guest room with a great lake view. If you should be interested in more information about this accommodation, I will provide some in a post to come.

3.3. Where to go a fine dining lover in Gardone Riviera

I already let you know that Grand Hotel Fasano hosts a Michelin listed restaurant. It is about Restaurant Il Fagiano, helmed by a Michelin one-star chef.

But there is more around for gourmets! If you are a hard-core foodie, try to get a booking at Restaurant Lido 84.

This beautifully located restaurant right on the lake has a Michelin star plus it ranks No 7 on the list of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants.

And there are two more Michelin restaurants in this picturesque lakeside town. On the one hand, you find here Restaurant Fiordaliso at the Hotel of the same name. Again, it has this stunning location at the water’s edge.

On the other hand, Gardone Riviera’s scenic old town also features an awarded dining-spot. It is about Osteria Antico Brolo in a rustic 18th century building.

All the restaurants I just mentioned can be reached by foot from Grand Hotel Fasano. While Restaurant Lido 84 and Restaurant Fiordaliso are very close, Osteria Antico Brolo is a bit further away, you get here in about a 15 minute walk. You will find out about how it is dining at all these four dining spots in a future post, along with the lodging experience at Grand Hotel Fasano.

4. Glion above Montreux on Lake Geneva

4.1. About Glion/Montreux & where to stay here in style

I will not go into details here as I have already informed about this topic in a previous post. If you want to know more about the Lake Geneva region, especially about the Montreux Riviera and Lausanne, have a look here. As far as our lodging in Glion is concerned, we returned to one we already had stayed at back in 2021. Find here the hotel review of Hotel and Restaurant Victoria.

4.2. Michelin starred dining in Montreux area

In addition to dining at the hotel restaurant again (see above), we tried out two more dining-spots. Both of them are awarded with a Michelin star. It is about one in Glion itself, the other in another village above Montreux. The first is Restaurant Le Pont de Brent in Brent (UPADATE: out of business in November 2023).

You can reach it in a ten-minute drive (best by taxi or Uber) from Hotel Victoria. The other is Maison Décotterd, only a few minutes away by foot from this accommdation.

A post to follow will give you an impression of how it is dining at these two gourmet temples.

What is next about north Italy & west Switzerland

I already let you know, I do not want to leave it at the itinerary and some short remarks as to our north Italy & west Switzerland 14 day-trip in style. I want to delve deeper and let you know how it was in every single place. The start makes the Merano area, followed by the Sarentino valley, both in the South Tyrol. I continue with the Lake Garda region, and this with the southwestern part, also called Lemon Riviera (hotel/restaurants). And the end sets an area in western Switzerland. And this is Montreux on Lake Geneva.

After having made the one or two bits of information on the respective places in general (what to expect as a traveler here), I will not offer more details in this regard. Instead, I will put a focus on the upscale hotels we stayed and the Michelin restaurants we dined. Actually, all the dining spots we visited on this journey through north Italy and west Switzerland are listed in the Michelin Guide except one (Restaurant Victoria Glion). Six of them even are Michelin-starred, that means we “collected” eight Michelin stars in total!

I will publish a post for each place. Consequently, there will be following four more blogposts on this topic:

• Hotel Castel in Tirolo/South Tyrol with two-star Michelin Restaurant Castel Fine Dining,
• Hotel Terra in the Sarentino valley/South Tyrol with two-star Michelin Restaurant Terra,
• Grand Hotel Fasano in Gardone Riviera/Lake Garda with Michelin starred Restaurant Il Fagiano plus three more foodie spots in town,
• two one-star Michelin restaurants in Montreux/Lake Geneva

Other similar itineraries

In case you should be interested in other similar itineraries than this current one about northwest Italy and southeast France, here are more:

• Northern Italy & southern France in style, a 11-day road trip itinerary
• 11 days on the road in the Piedmont & west Switzerland in luxury

Date of stay: September 2023

Pin it for later

The post North Italy & west Switzerland in style, a 14-day road trip itinerary first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post North Italy & west Switzerland in style, a 14-day road trip itinerary appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Buthan, the mystic kingdom in the Himalayas, is something very special. You will not find another like it! After sharing a travel guide with you in my last post, here is the perfect Bhutan 9-day itinerary how to explore the otherworldly Land of the Thunder Dragon. The journey goes to Buthan’s heartland, the four valleys of Paro, Thimphu, Punakha and Phobjikha. This is the west of the country that most of the travelers see. And this for good reason. It is home to the only international airport, the capital and has a great density of sights.

Before going into details about the places my husband and I visited, here is an overview on all my blogposts about Bhutan.

My mini series about Bhutan travel

As mentioned at the beginning, I already did a travel guide with all the essentials to know when planning to come to Bhutan. As to what will follow, there it is.

In my next post, I will outline how to travel the suggested itinerary via an arrangement by a luxury hotel. There are three international high-end hotel groups that operate in Druk Yul – that is how the locals call their home land. And I want to compare these three. Then I will provide information about traveling Bhutan with our choice of hotel. To end this mini series about the Land of the Thunder Dragon, I will inform about possible pre- and post-Bhutan stays. This because it is usually not possible to fly in directly from more distant countries.

Now to our perfect Bhutan 9-day itinerary.

My Google Map of a Bhutan 9-day itinerary

You find the Bhutan travel plan my husband and I followed in the form of a Google Map. It includes all the (luxury) hotels we stayed, a recommended restaurant we ate (there is only one as we had a full board package) and the things we did. One tip: to experience Bhutan at its most authentic, it is a good idea to throw in a few lesser visited sites and walks/hikes! As to the nature of attractions – the terminology – check out my travel guide.

In case you wonder about other things to do in west Bhutan than mentioned in my Bhutan 9-day itinerary, there are many more. Yet my husband and I had decided that we wanted to explore the four valleys by walking as much as possible. This is supposed to be the royal road to fully immerse into Druk Yul. Because that is what the locals do all the time, at least in the rural regions outside of Paro and Thimphu. I mentioned it in the description of the individual sights in case we walked/hiked to them.

From place to place in west Bhutan, a perfect 9-day itinerary

To begin, a short overview on our 9-night trip. We started and ended with two days in Paro each. The first stay consisted of general sightseeing, the second one was dedicated to the hike to the Tiger’s Nest. Next was the Punakha Valley, where we spent three days in subtropical surroundings. Before our return to Paro, we had two more days in the Phobjikha Valley. Here we delved even deeper into the country’s rural landscapes.

1. Paro Valley 2,200m/7,200ft (day 1&2, day 8&9), 1st & 4th stop Bhutan 9-day itinerary

This is where every visitor arriving by air starts his or her Bhutan journey. The charming town of Paro with a population of about 50,000 lies on the bank of the Paro river. From the impressive Paro Dzong

it is not far to its main street, only built in 1985. It is lined with colorful wooden buildings that all look more or less the same.

1.1. General sightseeing

1.1.1 Paro Dzong

One of the major sights here is the before mentioned Paro Dzong. It sits atop a hill, in a commanding position, overlooking the entire valley. It was constructed in the 17th century and is also called Rinpung Dzong, fortress of the jewel hill.

When my husband and I arrived in Paro at the beginning of April 2023, the Paro Tsechu Festival took place. This is considered as one of the country’s most important ones where masked dancers perform their art. We had not planned our trip around the festival, so we were just lucky of having the chance to attend. And it really was worth it! It was a colorful affair – from the dancers

to the audience

– and allowed us a unique cultural insight.

1.1.2. Walk/Hike to Zuri Dzong Monastery Paro/National Museum Paro

I dearly remember our first walk/hike starting at our hotel (COMO Paro) up the hill towards Zuri Dzong Monastery Paro.

You need about half three quarters of an hour to reach it, walking through beautiful cypress and pine trees. It is one of the oldest dzongs, dating back to 1352. From here you have a stunning panoramic view of the Paro Valley

(we did not enter the premises).

The walk/hike can be continued in the direction of the National Museum, housed in an ancient watchtower, which requires another half hour. It offers a good introduction to the Buthanese heritage and traditions.

1.1.3. Other sights in Paro

If you have more time available, consider driving to Drukgyel Dzong Paro

northwest of Paro. You find another dzong a this spot, where the highway ends. It was erected to control the northern route to Tibet. For a long time, this dzong had been in ruins. Yet recently, it was completely rebuilt. In the time to come, it shall be opened to the public.

On your way back to Paro, make a stop at Kyichu Lhakhang Temple Paro.

It is one of the country’s oldest temples, built in the 7th century. There is a belief that the two orange trees in the courtyard bear fruit throughout the year.

1.2. Tiger’s Nest Monastery Paro Taktsang Hike

This is one of Bhutan’s most incredible sights, the monastery perched on the side of a sheer cliff 900 m/2,953 ft above the floor of the Paro Valley. Without a doubt, a first time trip to Bhutan would not be complete without seeing it!

The complex was built in 1692, around the cave where Guru Rinpoche first meditated. He is said to have brought the Buddhism from Tibet to Bhutan arriving here on the back of a tiger. Thus, giving this place the name “Tiger’s Nest”.

Getting here involves some effort, meaning an intermediate to difficult hike (700 m/2,297 ft up). Allow about five hours for this activity (including a one-hour temple tour). Start early in the morning to avoid crowds. Plan to leave the monastery around midday. At this time the lighting is ideal for photography. Anyone of average fitness can do this hike, just do not rush it!

2. Thimphu Valley 2,248m/7,375ft (transit only)

I do not consider Bhutan’s capital of Thimphu Town as a must-see on your Bhutan trip. If you expect an idyllic town, you will be disappointed. The traditional houses are fast being replaced by multi-story high-rise buildings. And the town incessantly grows in all directions. As many other Asian countries, Bhutan suffers from rural exodus. Problematic in the case of Thimphu is it that there are by far not enough job opportunities for all the people coming from the countryside.

Be it as it may, there are still some sights you should not miss in Thimphu. We passed it twice on our way from Paro to Punakha and back (it is a bit more than a one-hour drive from Paro).

2.1. Buddha Dordenma Statue Thimphu

The huge 51 m/169 ft statute of Buddha Dordenma is located in a commanding position above Thimphu Town. It is made of bronze and gilded in gold, just as the over 100,000 smaller Buddha statues that come with the huge Buddha. The statue was made in China, cut in pieces and reassembled onsite. Its construction began in 2006 and ended in 2015. A businessman from Singapore sponsored the statue, which costed 100 million US$.

2.2. Traffic cop on Thimphu’s busiest intersection

Bhutan is probably the only country worldwide whose capital does not have a single traffic light. Instead, you find a traffic cop at Thimphu’s busiest intersection. He wears white gloves and directs the traffic in an artful way.

From what I learned, there used to be a traffic light at this spot. Yet it was a source of confusion for the road users. Consequently, it was abolished.

2.3. Simply Bhutan Living Museum

Simply Bhutan is an interactive living museum that gives a quick introduction to different aspects of traditional Buthanese life. You learn how Ara, the rice wine, is made, and you can also try it. They inform about the way they construct their houses. There is also the chance to give their national sport, archery, a shot. And you can watch women doing the typical festival dances while you sip traditional butter tea.

Although the whole thing is rather touristy, it is fun, and you need less than an hour to do the whole tour.

2.4. Dochula Pass

If you do not go to Punakha from Paro, it is still worth doing the trip to the nearby Dochula Pass (about a 45-minute drive from Thimphu). This, in particular, if it is a sunny and clear day. Then you have good chances to view the snow-covered Himalaya peaks from here (which are 7,000 m / 23,000 ft about sea level).

My husband and I crossed this mountain pass (3,100 m/10,300 ft) twice, but we had no luck with the weather, so no snow mountains for us. Yet, we had a look at the 108 memorial chortens (shrines) or stupas (tombs), built in 2004.

3. Punakha Valley 1,242m/4,075ft (day 3-5), 2nd stop Bhutan 9-day itinerary

You get to Punakha in a four- to five-hour drive from Paro. And you encounter a totally different world here. As it is at a lower elevation, it is warmer and has a subtropical climate. It is the main producer of rice, also the red one, which is nuttier in taste. And you find here also banana and orange trees.

Punakha is located at the banks of two beautiful rivers, Po Chhu (Male) and Mo Chhu (Female).

There is also the opportunity to do white-water rafting. The town used to be the country’s capital, until 1955. In terms of things to do in Punakha, there is a wide choice to choose from.

3.1. Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten Punakha

Climbing the hill to this chorten or stupa – a religious monument – is a popular thing to do. You need about half an hour to do so, starting at a footbridge in Yepaisa Village. The chorten, built in 2004, was built to ward off negative forces and to spread peace and harmony to everyone. From its roof, you have a fabulous panorama vista of Punakha’s terraced fields.

3.2. Punakha Dzong

This dzong, erected in the 17th century, is arguably Bhutan’s most beautiful one. At the same time, it is the country’s second oldest and second largest one. And it is the winter home of Je Khenpo, the Chief Abbot, staying here with 1,000 monks. Punakha Dzong is also known under the name of the “palace of great happiness”

3.4. Chorten Nyingpo Lhakhang Punakha

Horten Nyingpo is a monastery in Kabisa, built in 17th century. You can reach it by car along a small, curvy road yet it is much more rewarding to hike up to this remote and lesser visited place. In such a way, you are most times in the forest, pass a village at some point and have great views of Punakha’s rice fields.

Once arrived – you need about 1 1/4 hour by foot from Hotel COMO Punakha – , do not “only” visit the monastery but also walk around a bit. View the property from further away, have a look at the picturesque surroundings and at the impressive archery ground in the adjacent village.

3.5. Other sights in Punakha

A popular monastery is Chimi Lhakhang Punakha, also known as fertility temple. This is easy to recognize from the motifs you find here. The temple was built in honor of the so-called “divine madman” who had an unorthodox way of teaching Buddhism and was fond of women, wine and dance.

The Sangchhen Dorji Lhuendrup Lhakhang Nunnery Punakha is a newly built nunnery constructed in traditional style (2010). It is located on a hill among pine trees, boasting breathtaking views of the Punakha Valley. It is a quiet and peaceful place, and everything is tidy too. 120 nuns live here at this Buddhist College.

The Punakha Suspension Bridge is one of Bhutan’s longest ones, measuring 180 m/590 ft. It is adorned with fluttering prayer flags. It spans over the “Male” river and seems quite stable. Having said that, the bridge may sway a bit when it is windy, and this is quite often.

4. Phobjikha Valley 3,000m/10,000ft (day 6&7), 3rd stop Bhutan 9-day itinerary

This contemplative valley is a great addition to make once you are in Punakha and having two more nights to spend before returning to Paro. You reach the Phobjikha Valley after a three- to four-hour drive from Punakha Valley crossing the Lawa La Pass (3,200 m/10,500 ft).

There is lots of agriculture (especially potato cultivation) in this bowl-shaped glacial valley on the western slopes of the Black Mountains. The area is also called Gangte or Gangtey Valley in reference to the Gangtey Goempa Monastery sitting on a ridge above the valley. As to sights here, there is much to to do here as to walking/hiking yet there are also some religious sites.

4.1. Black-Necked Crane Information Center Phobjikha Valley

The Phobjikha Valley is one of the most important wildlife preserves in the country due to the endangered black-necked cranes that winter here. To have a look at this bird – there are two injured ones in a cage – , go to the Black-Necked Crane Information Center. Here you find also informative displays about the black-necked cranes plus an educational 15-minute video. From October to mid-February, you can watch the birds from here feeding on the valley marshlands.

4.2. Walking/Hiking trails in Phobjikha Valley

There is a number of walking/hiking trails to undertake in this area known for its rhododendrons that bloom in spring.

The most popular one is the Gangtey Nature Trail, starting at the Gangtey Monastery. The path winds down through rather flat terrain and ends at the bottom of the valley. You pass pastures, farmhouses and pine forests before coming to a vast open space. Yet, there are many more options to explore the valley by foot, from short walks to immersive three-days treks.

4.3. Gangtey Monastery Phobjikha Valley

The Gangtey Monastery, also known as Gangte Goenpa, is located in a privileged situation at the top of a hill. From here, you can overlook the green expanse of the whole Phobjikha Valley. The monastery, founded in the 17th century, was restored from 2001 to 2008 due to a beetle-larvae infestation. Adjacent to the monastery you find a village where the monks’ families live.

Looking back and forward on my blog

My mini series to Bhutan started with a travel guide for this magic land of fluttering prayer flags, peaceful monasteries and red robed monks. The current post went into the perfect Bhutan 9-day itinerary through four valleys in the country’s west – Paro, Thimphu, Punakha and Phobjikha – the region that most first time travelers visit in this Himalayan nation.

Next on my blog will be a comparison of the three luxury hotels that offer Bhutan itineraries. After this, I give details on our journey through the Land of the Thunder Dragon, arranged by one of these, COMO.

My Bhutan mini series will find an end with outlining opportunities for a pre- and post-stay. This is a necessity because it is usually not possible to reach Druk Yul – yet another name for Bhutan – without a layover, at least when coming from far-away countries.

Date of visit: April 2023

Pin it for later

The post Bhutan in the Himalayas, a perfect 9-day itinerary first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Bhutan in the Himalayas, a perfect 9-day itinerary appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Wondering where to go in the southwestern United States not only for sights but also for travel in style? And this without breaking the bank? My husband and I tried to do so and succeeded in many cases. But – as you may have guessed from the headline – it is no easy thing, due to increased prices or for lack of suitable establishments. Travel in style – think of staying at luxury hotels and dining at (Michelin) fine dining restaurants – has become increasingly expensive on the US west coast recently. And the offer of upscale spots for staying and dining in style is scarce in some places. As if that were not enough, it seems that overtourism has also reached the area. Notwithstanding that, we managed to compile an American southwest itinerary and embarked on our 9th (!) journey in the area. This time we flew into Los Angeles, then went east towards Arizona before returning to California’s coast.

Before going into the details of our voyage, I would like to address some related topics shortly. After a very brief look at our US west coast travel history there will be some lines to the current price level in the luxury hotel segment. This will be followed by some considerations on itineraries in the area – also as a result of grown national park tourism.

Our west coast adventures to date

I have just mentioned it, my husband and I are great fans of the US west coast. And so we have just had our 9th stay here! Our first one was more than 30 years ago, and oh my God, so much has changed since then. But I do not want to bore you with “everything was better in the past” stories. The last time we were here was in 2017, flying into San Francisco.

And I took this trip as an opportunity to suggest a Californian trip in five stops – find here all my posts about it.

Whereas we travelled the northern part of this US state at the time – starting in Mendocino

and going south to Los Angeles, including a side trip to Palm Springs – ,

we concentrated on California’s south coast plus Las Vegas

and Arizona

on our recent journey. But both times we ended our vacations in Orange County (south of Los Angeles).

And so I am able to compare the price level at a high-end hotel in the region, 2022 versus 2017. So much can be said, rates have been skyrocketing since then. More in the section to follow.

Increased price level in upscale hotels in the southwest USA

Maybe you have experienced it yourself, room rates at luxury hotels in popular destinations have increased lately. It seems that especially beachy vacation spots

are in huge demand. And this is no wonder as in the last two years leisure travel was often not possible. So, travelers are more than ready to spend money for their much needed and well deserved vacations. A phenomenon that is called “revenge travel” nowadays.

In addition to a strong demand, the hotel industry faces new issues. On the one hand, it suffers from labor shortages. This often results in staff reductions. On the other hand, costs for everything are skyrocketing. Not only materials are scarce but there are procurement delays too. The reasons for this are plentiful. First, there were delivery problems because of the pandemic, followed by similar issues due to the war in the Ukraine. A rising inflation was the result. This constellation brings along not only service cuts but also sky-high rates. Overall, you pay more for a room and end up with a worse service.

My personal experiences in terms of overcharging and under delivering at hotels

When planning our southwest USA journey, my husband and I were astonished to see how room rates for high-end hotels have risen since our 2017 stay. One example: At the time (end of October 2017), we paid 749$ per night (breakfast included, AAA Package) for an Ocean View Room at the Ritz-Carlton in Dana Point (Orange County).

For a stay at the beginning of July 2022, the same room would have cost 1,850$ (without breakfast)! And this without the accommodation being updated or so (it was renovated shortly before our 2017 stay). As we do not pay such an excessive price for a nice yet not so special room, we did not go for it.

At other places, we experienced a number of service cuts. There were hotels – we had booked a two-night stay at each – , where they had following room cleaning schedules. In one case, we were told that there would be no cleaning at all. At another lodging, they only clean the rooms every third day. And in another one, rooms were only done upon request.

While this did not pose a serious problem for us, we considered such a regimen as unusual. And this in particular in view of the increased room rates, where you would not expect sub-par service.

Before coming to our actual itinerary, here a few related things you better give some thoughts to when planning to travel America’s southwest. These concern general considerations – where to start, which route to take etc – but also the mentioned overtourism in the area.

Considerations on itineraries in the southwest USA – generally & in view of overtourism

Route considerations trough America’s southwest

As my husband and I have travelled America’s southwest extensively over the years (or better the decades), we have tried out various variations. Most times, we began our trips from either Los Angeles

or San Francisco,

as we are international travelers. However, this is not always the ideal starting point, depending on what you want to do. In some cases, it might be better to fly into Denver, as we did once.

Let us take the example of starting and ending in Los Angeles and heading east in between, as we did on our most recent vacation. You have to know that there is some kind of “gap” between the coast and the “touristic” inland. Here “in-between” you do not find many sights and no places for staying and dining in style. This leaves you as discerning traveler with two options. You can either go via Las Vegas –

what we did – , or via Palm Springs –

where we were on our last trip. For your way back to the coast, you take the one you have not done yet. As alternative – especially if you want to include Phoenix/Scottsdale or Tucson into your travel plans, there is also the route to San Diego –

as we opted for on our recent journey.

Overtourism in southwestern USA

Now to one more fact what makes traveling in the area more complicated and unpleasant too, the overtourism. As you certainly are aware of, there is a post-pandemic boom in nature respectively national park tourism.

While this kind of tourist activity has grown steadily for decades, it has accelerated since the 2010s (Bloomberg). And sadly, most national parks

and other nature attractions in the American southwest are crowded at many times of the year. As a consequence, it may be better to visit them in the shoulder respectively off-seasons or to switch to “second-rate” sights. In our case, we went this year end of June/beginning of July, and in Page we chose the Waterhole Canyon

over the Antelope Canyon.

But enough complaining, I come now to the actual topic, our American southwest itinerary.

Our California-Nevada-Arizona 16-day itinerary in style

Definitive route

Considering that we have been in the area many times before, we were not eager to do the same things all over again. And of course, we wanted to avoid revisiting a place that is now crowded and was not on a previous stay! We had not been to Page yet (Horseshoe Bend

and Antelope Canyon) and wanted to explore Sedona in greater details – we got to know and love it in 2017 on a (too) short stay. So, these were the two fixed inland points. We also thought about going to Tucson but dropped it because we could not warm to its vibe (and lodging offerings).

Hence, we started in the South Bay of Los Angeles (Hermosa Beach),

heading east towards Page

in Arizona’s far north – with a stopover in Las Vegas –

before coming to Sedona.

Here we spent a large part of our vacations, then drove – via Scottsdale –

back to the Californian coast. We “hit” it in San Diego

and made one more stop in California, and this in Orange County (Dana Point),

before returning to Switzerland.

Our travel style

As to our travel style, one can say that we have expensive tastes in terms of staying

and dining.

We are ready to pay high prices for hotels but only if we consider them worth the expense. And this was definitely not always the case when checking out lodging for our American southwest trip. As outlined before, we wanted to stay at a particular accommodation again that we knew from two earlier visits but found it way too expensive this time. And this very establishment was no exception! So, we had to “downgrade” every now and then.

Find in the following detailed information on our California-Nevada-Arizona itinerary.

My Google Map (itinerary) of our southwest USA journey in style

My Google Maple (itinerary) includes all the hotels we stayed and the restaurants we dined on our trip through the American southwest. And they come complete with short descriptions and pictures. You find the same as to cafés or ice-cream shop we went to on our journey and considered as good. Finally, I listed all the activities we did when traveling North America’s “Wild West”.

While we usually strive for the best in terms of hotels and restaurants – without overspending – , we faced some problems in achieving this. These were either due to excessive rates – as mentioned – but also because of the lack of suitable establishments. Whereas the offer of upscale hotels is plentiful on the Californian coast, this is not always the case when traveling inland.

I will not leave my Google Map uncommented. There is the one or other thing to tell you concerning each stop. You will find some details to all the seven places we visited on our journey through America’s southwest soon on my blog!

Date of visit: July 2022

Pin it for later

The post A journey through the American southwest (OVERVIEW) – in style, whenever possible first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post A journey through the American southwest – in style, whenever possible appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

It took my husband and me long, very long, until our first visit to Mallorca. And this is not without reason. The biggest Balearic Island has been known to be an overtouristed destination for decades (see my post). Until recently, this place was not on our bucket list. And if there had not been the pandemic, I doubt we would have thought about coming to Mallorca. Well, never say never! Finally, we did it. And while it certainly is no big love for me, I do not rule out to return. This destination has much to offer, not only in terms of the “3S” (sun sea sand) and sights, but also when it comes to staying and dining in style in Mallorca. There is quite a number of excellent luxury hotels and Michelin restaurants on this island, from which we visited quite a few.

Before going into details about the hotels we stayed and the restaurants we dined, here is the itinerary of our trip.

Mallorca 15-day road trip itinerary

Find here my Google Map of our journey.

1. Es Capdellà (southwest)

Flying into the Palma de Mallorca airport, we saved the Balearic Islands’ capital for the end of our trip. We drove along Palma’s waterfront to catch at first glimpse at its famous cathedral,

before continuing to the island’s southwest. Here we lodged inland at the foot of the Tramuntana mountains, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was an ideal base to explore the southern part of this impressive mountain range with lots of beautiful landscapes,

picturesque villages

and stunning walks.

Our hotel for the first five nights was near Es Capdellà, a pleasant village in the pre-Tramuntana mountains.

2. Pollença (north)

For our second stay we headed north, and this to Pollença.

It is considered as the cultural capital of the north. Apart from featuring a beautiful old town, it also has nice surroundings.

Our hotel was in the town’s outskirt, where we spent four nights. The days were filled with activities (often hikes) in the northern part of the Tramuntana mountains

and on the Cap Formentor,

Mallorca’s most northern tip. And we also checked out the lovely seaside towns in the area.

3. Canyamel (northeast)

For four more nights, we were in Canyamel. This is a small, quiet resort on the far northeast coast of Mallorca.

From here we explored the island’s eastern part, which is partly hilly but not really mountainous and sometimes also quite flat. You find here not only old towns worth seeing

but also a considerable number of walking options.

As we had opted for a beachside hotel, we also enjoyed some of our time just being by the sea.

4. Palma de Mallorca (southwest)

Our last stop was – as announced – Mallorca’s capital of Palma.

I strongly advice not to skip this city because it is a truly atmospheric place! For our two last nights in Mallorca, we had chosen a hotel at the edge of the upper town,

which was a great location. Not only this oldest part of Palma has a great ancient feel, but you can easily reach all the important spots in town.

Staying & dining in style in Mallorca

As alway when traveling, my husband and I make sure that we choose hotels and restaurants that allow staying and dining in style. But we do this always with an eye for value for money, we do not want to pay exorbitant prices. I think that we managed quite well in Mallorca in this respect, maybe with one exception. And this were the restaurants at our first hotel, which I found price wise a bit over the top.

Find in the following a few brief remarks to all the luxury hotels and the fine dining restaurants we visited in Mallorca. Details about the individual establishments will follow in the time to come on this blog (southwest around Es Capdellà, north around Pollença, northeast around Canyamel, Palma de Mallorca).

1. Es Capdellà (Hotel Castell Son Claret etc)

Hotel Castell Son Claret & Restaurants Sa Clastra/Olivera plus two local restaurants

This was definitely the most upscale hotel of our Mallorca trip! The former 19th century castle

is exclusive, chic, and the superb staff pampers you all day long. And the privately owned property, one of the biggest estates on the island, is unbelievably beautiful. As to lodging, there are lots of options in different building, and rooms are timelessly elegant.

The inland location at the foot of the Tramuntana mountains is very idyllic yet only half an hour by car from Palma. Allow about the same time for reaching the most important sights in the southern part of the mentioned mountain range. The two restaurants – one of them Michelin listed – are very good yet at the higher end of the price scale.

Furthermore, we dined at two local eateries around Port d’Andratx, which offered well-made food, reasonably priced.

2. Pollença (Hotel Son Brull etc)

Hotel Son Brull & Restaurants 365/Bistro plus one local restaurant

The former 18th century monastery

is also situated inland, and this in the foothills of the northern Tramuntana mountains. The stunning ancient town of Pollença is a few minutes away by car. The Son Brull is a luxury boutique hotel, owned by a Mallorcan family. The vibe here is relaxed, staff is friendly and discrete. Rooms are well-appointed in a modern style,

and there are different categories to choose from. The hotel is a great base to explore the scenic surroundings. Both dining-spots onsite – one of them Michelin listed – are excellent and fairly priced.

You can reach the hotel in a bit more than half an hour from Palma.

We also had dinner at a casual Michelin listed venue in Port de Pollenca, which was great.

3. Canyamel (Hotel Can Simoneta etc)

Hotel Can Simoneta & Restaurants Can Simoneta/Sa Pleta by Marc Fosh plus one local restaurant

As the two other hotels mentioned before, it is family owned and a historic place. The latter is at least true for the oldest of the three country houses, the 140 years old guardhouse. The hotel sits high atop cliffs with superb views of the bay of Canyamel in Mallorca’s quiet northeast.

The atmosphere here in this high-end adult-only lodging is tranquil and serene. Staff is attentive and efficient. The premises are kept in a contemporary style, all white and puristic.

From Can Simoneta you can easily discover the island’s east. Coming from Palma, you need a bit less than one hour to get to the hotel. We enjoyed here tasty dinners, and this at “our” hotel as well as at the adjoining sister property (both Michelin listed).

And note, dear gourmets, you find Mallorca’s best rated Michelin establishment in the immediate neighborhood! This is the Michelin two-star Voro at the Cap Vermell Grand Hotel. Of course, my husband and I made the trip to this temple of gastronomy, and we were delighted with our experience!

4. Palma de Mallorca (Hotel Es Princep etc)

Hotel Es Príncep & Restaurant Zaranda plus one local restaurant

Also this hotel is family owned and has a historical reference. It was built on the ruins of Palma’s tanners’ quarter.

If you have dinner at the accommodation’s signature restaurant Zaranda (one-star Michelin), you can look down through a glass floor on the finds of a former tannery from the 13th century. As to this dining-spot, it is one of the top foodie heavens on the island, helmed by Michelin two-star chef Fernando Pérez Arellano. We had a fabulous meal here where we changed locations twice.

In addition, there are lots of other upscale dining options outside the hotel. One more Michelin one-star restaurant was on our agenda.

The Es Príncep is a jewel in terms of lodging too.

The newly opened luxury hotel (2018) is at the edge of the capital’s historic old town, just along the old city walls. It is ideally located for exploring Palma’s numerous sights. And the airport is only ten minutes by car away. Many of the rooms, furnished in typical Mallorca style, have sea views. And the roof top terrace is one of the biggest in town. The vibe here is casual and unstuffy, staff is attentive without being intrusive.

Looking back and forward

While my last post was about Mallorca’s well known overtourism and the ways out of it, the current one is an overview about the 15th-day trip my husband and I took here in early spring 2022.

As my husband and I love staying and dining in style, we had chosen hotels and restaurants in Mallorca to suit our preference. We started with a luxury accommodation near the southern Tramuntana mountains, followed by another one not far from the northern part of this mountain range (both inland). Then we were ready for sea vibes, and this at a five-star establishment on the island’s rugged coast in the northeast. The last stop brought us to Palma – a worthwhile stand-alone destination – , where we lodged at a new high-end hotel in the capital’s historic old town. And throughout our Mallorcan journey, we made sure to dine at the island’s best (Michelin) restaurants whenever possible.

Next on my blog, you will find details about all four stops we did in Mallorca, and this regarding staying and dining. I begin with the southwest (Es Capdellà), continue with the north (Pollença), come to Canyamel (northeast) and end with Palma (capital).

Date of visit: April 2022

Pin it for later

The post Mallorca/Spain in style, a 15-day road trip itinerary first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Mallorca/Spain in style, a 15-day road trip itinerary appeared first on Swiss Traveler.