I just wanted to let you know that I have updated my Switzerland directories for traveling and dining in style for 2025! There are the four of them. The first two are about where to go in my lovely home country. You find not only a grand tour of Switzerland but also an overview of premium destinations for the discerning traveler. Furthermore, I inform on where to stay and where to dine in style while traveling along the grand tour through this Alpine nation.

Here are the details:

1. Guide to visiting Switzerland
2. Premium destinations in Switzerland
3. Guide to luxury hotels in Switzerland, part one – core and west
4. Guide to luxury hotels in Switzerland, part two – Alps and east
5. Directory to fine dining in Switzerland, part one – core and west
6. Directory to fine dining in Switzerland, part two – Alps and east

I would like to highlight in particular my advice to foodies spots in Switzerland (5. and 6.).

It is based on dining directories just as the Michelin Guide and the Gault Millau Guide. And whenever they publish a new edition I amend my articles accordingly. But of course my personal opinions also play a role when creating them.

One more remark to end this short blogpost about my freshly updated Switzerland dine and travel in style guides. It is about how to use them. In case you do not want to read them from A to Z – which I would perfectly understand as they are quite long – , then proceed as follows. If you are only interested in a specific place, go to the contents section and click at “show”. Go to the spot of your choice and only read the correspondent paragraph!

Happy traveling and dining to all of you in 2025! And maybe let me know what you think about my directories.

The post My Switzerland travel & dine in style directories 2025 first appeared on Swiss Traveler

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Basel is known – amongst other things – for its proximity to the two neighboring countries of Germany and France. And just as Switzerland’s biggest city of Zurich, it has a good offer of fine-dining outlets. Whereas Zurich’s high-end culinary scene is very dynamic – see my post about it -, Basel is a bit more modest in this context. However, that does not mean it is not worth visiting as a foodie. Quite the opposite, it boasts one of only four three-star Michelin spots existing in Switzerland. Furthermore, it also has two two-star Michelin establishments. One of them was already the subject of an earlier post about Basel’s fine-dining scene. I will cover the other and the three-star spot in the sections to follow. And my overview on best fine-dining restaurants in Basel will also include one from abroad, which fits this city as meeting place for three countries.

I begin with the highflier here, the mentioned three-star Michelin place before coming to the two-star and the one-star establishments.

1. Restaurant Cheval Blanc by Peter Knogl at Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois

three-star Michelin restaurant featuring fantastic classic French cuisine with a twist in a splendid historical hotel dining-room by the water

This classic French high-end restaurant was for me the last on the list of all the three-star Michelin places in my home country. The reason for this was probably the fact that it is not considered as modern. And I am a big fan of contemporary cuisine. Yet, in hindsight I have to say this should not have hindered me so long. That is because everything was top-notch at my dinner at Cheval Blanc. The chef here, Peter Knogl, has been working here since 2007.

And since day one, he celebrates French haute cuisine, yet influenced by Mediterranean and Asian influences.

The chef is considered as king of sauces, and it really is exceptional what he accomplishes in this field. Each and every sauce was perfect, bursting with flavor and wonderfully balanced. But everything was of the highest standard, and this made by first rate produce and presented in a pleasantly reduced way.

And the setting is beautiful, at Basel’s most upscale luxury hotel – Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois – just by the river Rhine.

The 300 year old dining room (30 seats) is splendid. It is kept in a classical and somewhat opulent style, with intricate chandeliers and fine antiques.

And to my delight, the restaurant manager (Giuseppe Giliberti), although dressed in a black tailcoat, was not stiff at all but showed a good mixture of professionalism and relaxedness.

The dinner I had with my husband and friends at Cheval Blanc was utterly enjoyable. It was full of culinary highlights, accompanied by an immaculate service performance and the most glorious setting. This level of quality along with the highest possible rating (three Michelin stars, 19 point Gault Millau) comes with a price. Notwithstanding, it is still far from being astronomically expensive. On offer is a sole menu, either in the complete version (six courses for 320 SFR/US$) or in five courses (285 SFR/US$).

2. Restaurant Roots

two-star Michelin dining spot with excellent modern cuisine in relaxed ambiance a bit away from the city center at the river (with some service issues)

Our party of four enjoyed excellent modern food at Roots, and this in a chic contemporary setting.

Unfortunately, the dinner was overshadowed by an underwhelming service performance. Right after the opening we entered the premises and were welcomed with the words: Do you have a reservation? Of course we had one, otherwise you get no table at a two-star Michelin restaurant on a Saturday evening. And this was only the start to several service hiccups. It followed insufficient advice on Champagne selection, inflexible dining choices (see below) and not refilling our drinks. While we are at it, everything as to service was immaculate when related to food issues. The staff was obviously drilled to ensure that the cutlery was set when the chefs came to the table with their creations. They did this with every course, which was informative and entertaining at the same time.

Food wise, you can decide on six, seven, nine or ten courses (178/189/208/219 SFR/US$). The server let our party of four know that six courses involve following dishes: twice seafood, once vegetables, twice meat and once dessert. The seventh course would be a dessert, the eighth something with truffle, the ninth langoustine and the tenth cheese. When we asked whether we could have the truffle dish instead of the second dessert as seventh course, it was rejected. And this without giving an understandable reason. Be it as it may, the food we got was really remarkable. The cuisine of the young chef, Pascal Steffen, is innovative and often vegetable-based.

He started here in 2017, at the “Rhypark”, a convention center by the river Rhine a bit away from the city center.

The food is worth two Michelin stars (Roots got its second end of 2022), but this is not enough to create a memorable dinner experience. As a diner at a highly decorated venue (18 points Gault Millau) you certainly may expect a higher standard of service.

3. Restaurant La Table de l’Auberge at Auberge Saint-Laurent in Sierentz/Alsace (France)

well-made modern and traditional cuisine at historical coaching inn in nearby France with an one-star Michelin award

I mentioned it, Basel is located in the tri-border area of France, Germany and Switzerland. And because of that it is common that locals also go abroad for eating out. That is exactly what a dear friend from Basel and I did on a cloudy winter day when heading for Sierentz in the Alsace (France). You get here in less than 20 minutes by car. It is also possible to take the train (18 minute-ride plus 8-minute walk). A lovely 18th century coaching inn awaits you here in rural surroundings. The well-preserved Auberge Saint-Laurent oozes lots of traditional charm. And it offers – apart from ten guest rooms – two Michelin listed restaurants.

On our occasion, we were on our way to the one-star Michelin Restaurant La Table de l’Auberge (16 points Gault Millau). Yet – as my friend told me – the more relaxed Winstub À Côté (Bib Gourmand) is also a good choice. The property has been family-owned since 1982 by the Arbeit family. In 2010, the second generation took over. Chef Laurent, who continues his father’s work, trained in the kitchens of some big-name chefs (Haeberlin and Ducasse). He does this in a differentiated manner. Some traditional dishes that made the house famous such as the duck foie gras with sauerkraut jam are unchanged on the menu.

Furthermore, he revisits others classics and reinvents them in a more contemporary way. Plus, he does his own modern creations. And he was able to retain the Michelin star that his father had earned more than twenty years ago.

We arrived to find a newly refurbished dining room. It now has a fresh look yet without denying its classical origins.

In terms of food, you can choose between an à la carte offer and three menus. As to the former, starters are from 28 to 40 €, mains from 35 to 48 € and desserts from 15 to 20 €. Menu wise, there are three options: the classic “Gourmet” (62 €), the choice menu “Tout à votre Choix” (95 €) – both with foie gras – and the surprise menu “Surprises et Gourmandises” (125 €). My friend and I opted for the middle – with foie gras of course. And we liked what we got. For dessert, I requested a change as I wanted to try the “Tout petit vacherin glacé”. That was no problem, and it was heavenly, although not exactly “tout petit”. Quite the opposite, it was much too big – just as the foie gras. Otherwise, it was an enjoyable meal with a friendly and reserved but not stiff service.

Looking back as to dining in style in Switzerland

In case you are not only interested in best fine dining restaurants in Basel but in Zurich too, then check out my two former posts. One is about great options to dine in style in Zurich city, and this divided in casual places (four options) and sophisticated ones (3 spots). Furthermore, I also did an overview of recommended fine dining restaurants in the Zurich area, i.e. outside of the city. This is about three dining spots, all of them Michelin starred respectively by a Michelin star chef.

Date of visits: December 2023 – January 2024

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Following my post about fine dining in Zurich city, it is time for the best fine-dining restaurants in the Zurich area too. And again, I present you such restaurants I first visited in 2023 and 2024. As to places I dined at in the past, have a look here. It concerns three restaurants which are all aimed at fine dining. At the same time, I would consider all of them as ones with a casual ambiance. In addition, you can reach them either by train or car within 30 minutes from Zurich city. Plus, they are all listed in the Michelin and the Gault Millau guides. Two of them even have Michelin stars!

I start with the highest awarded restaurant.

1. Restaurant Skin’s in Lenzburg

modern two-star Michelin restaurant with excellent innovative cuisine in favorable location just by the train station not far from Zurich 

Skin’s is a phenomenon. It was opened end of May 2022, and four months later it already gained two Michelin stars! This restaurant is the work of Felix Bertram, the owner and founder of Skinmed, a clinic for dermatology and plastic surgery, and chef Kevin Romes.

The entrepreneur met the young cook at Restaurant Einstein in Saint Gallen. And he immediately knew that this was the man for his dining-spot project. Skin’s is located just by Lenzburg’s train station, in a former industrial site. From Zurich’s main train station, you can reach it in a 19-minute ride plus a five-minute walk. Restaurant Skin’s is an uncompromisingly modern place. What I find impressive is the very large open cuisine where you can watch the chefs working.

The food is equally uncompromising as the interior, contemporary and creative. It is ingenious without being over the top so. I liked best the really fantastic sauces.

On my first occasion here – there was a second one, a champagne dinner – , they were often poured tableside. All and of them were different from each other, rich in taste and multifaceted. The atmosphere at Skin’s is relaxed and you are in contact with the chefs who appear at your table every now and then. Not only Michelin is full of praise for this dining spot but also Gault Millau. This guide gives 16 points and attests a form curve that is rising steeply upwards.

As to pricing, there is a sole tasting menu. Contrary to my first visit, there is now a six-course menu on offer costing 220 SFR/US$ (before seven courses for 225 SFR/US$). If you wish, you can add a surprise dish for 35 SFR/US$.

In case you want more information about one of the best fine-dining restaurants in the Zurich area, I have already done a post about the place after my first visit.

2. Restaurant Fahr in Kuenten (Künten)

delicious contemporary cuisine awarded one-star Michelin in relaxed ambiance located in idyllic rural surroundings

This is another Michelin starred restaurant in the same Swiss canton as Skin’s (Aargau). As to reachability by public transport from Zurich city, it is not that favorable. Yet you can get to it by car in less than 30 minutes. And when doing so, you come to another world. Fahr is a pure idyll, a stand-alone building on the edge of a nature reserve. Dining here is especially pleasant on a hot summer evening, when you can do this in the beautiful outdoor area. And it is child-friendly too with an associated playground.

Yet also the dining-room is a jewel.

The ambiance at Fahr – at least if you dine outside – is  very casual. On our visit, one of the guests even was dressed in bicycle gear!

When it comes to food, it is a seriously good affair. 

The young chef Manuel Steigmeier

started in Kuenten in 2017 at the age of 22 and got his first Michelin star in 2022. In addition, he has 17 Gault Millau points. And imagine he has not worked with any famous chefs before but “only” at a local dining spot with a solid but not exceptional cuisine. Yet he scores with outstanding, puristically served dishes. He does this in such a convincing way that you can count Fahr among the best fine-dining restaurants in the Zurich area. Service on our dinner was cordial however a bit slow between courses. As to the latter, you get a tasting menu here, either with fish/meat or vegetarian. Five courses cost 160 SFR/US$, six 175 SFR/US$.

3. Restaurant Die Rose in Rueschlikon (Rüschlikon)

UPDATE: the restaurant goes out of business end of September 2024

Michelin gives it a Bib Gourmand, Gault Millau has not reviewed it to date (but will do so in 2024). Service is warm at this casual place.

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Eating out at Zurich’s (casual) fine-dining restaurants is not a new thing for me, quite the opposite. I have been doing this on a regular basis for years – see my posts about it. Yet there are still lots of great (casual) gourmet (Michelin) restaurants in Zurich that are either new in town or I have not dined at so far. So it is time for an update as to Zurich’s flourishing culinary scene. I have visited all the places I am going to write about in the years of 2023 and 2024, and this usually for the first time. In addition, it is exclusively about restaurants geared to fine dining. And it does not matter whether they feature a casual ambiance or a sophisticated one. Plus, almost all of them are listed in the Michelin and the Gault Millau Guides.

Find below short descriptions of seven of Zurich’s best gourmet restaurants. They fall into two categories: casual fine dining and fancy fine dining. In a post to come, I will also go into such dining spots in Zurich’s surroundings. I start with the ones offering a relaxed setting however serving high-quality food nevertheless.

4 of the best casual fine-dining restaurants in Zurich

The first one on this list is the dining spot longest in business, the last one being the newest in town.

1. Restaurant Maison Manesse (district 3)

UPDATE: Maison Manesse closes its door at this location end of 2024

highly creative & surprising Michelin-starred cuisine in a perfectly relaxed setting

Maison Manesse, a pioneer in the field of casual fine dining in Zurich, opened its door in 2013. And this at a location a bit away from the center. At the time, chef Fabian Spiquel and host Miguel Ledesma were in the lead. In the meantime, chef Benjamin Plsek and host Raymond Fuerer have taken over. They brought in some new blood yet otherwise pursued the combination of experimental cuisine in an informal setting, although in a weakened form. A surprise menu is on offer at this unpretentious former neighborhood restaurant. It is available in a vegetarian, plant based or “everything” version. You can order either four courses (125 SFR/US$ without meat and fish, 135 SFR/US$ for “everything”) or six (165 SFR/US$ without meat and fish, 175 SFR/US$ for “everything”).

Alternatively to the menu, you can choose from an à la carte menu. Mains cost between 34 and 42 SFR/US$, cheese in two sizes (18 or 24 SFR/US$). Desserts range from 10 (sweet bites) to 21 SFR/US$.

When it comes to awards, Maison Manesse got a Michelin star in the second year of business, which it holds to this day. Gault Millau gives 16 points. As to the food, inspirations for the refined and well-balanced creations come from all over the world. The chef knows how to do subtle and unusual combinations of flavors and textures. As far as ingredients are concerned, the dining spot stays local. In terms of wines, Raymond Fuerer is very proficient in this field. The interiors are young and funky. And in summer, you can dine in the pleasant outdoor area too!

2. Restaurant Gül (district 4)

Turkish comfort food, sometimes also with creative touches, in an informal, vibrant setting

At Gül Restoran it is about Turkish cuisine, although with dishes not copied “one to one” from the originals. Rather, Elif Oskan, the woman behind Gül, brings in her own philosophy at this fun place. She is Turkish, brought up in Zurich, and partners up here with boyfriend Markus Stöckle (Rosi) and culinary entrepreneur Valentin Diem (Brasserie Süd). At the center of Gül is an open kitchen. The most important equipment items here are a charcoal grill and a wood oven. From those come the grilled Alpstein chicken or the home made bread just as the Pide or the Lahmacun. The oriental dessert classic of Baklava comes with almond frangipani and ice cream.

The atmosphere at this spacious restaurant (90 seats) is relaxed and lively.

In addition, there is a nice outdoor area as well.

When Gül is fully booked, the staff – who is otherwise friendly and accommodative – might be struggling with the demands of the guests. The calming force in here – when things are a bit hectic – is Elif Oskan’s father, “Baba”. On our two visits, my family opted for the Gülty Menü Sürpriz, the surprise menu for 80/85 SFR/US$ reflects the best what the kitchen has to offer. And it was both times a good choice! If you like champagne, it makes a perfect combination – and they have some excellent ones on the wine list.

You can also order from a comprehensive à la carte menu: snacks from 3 to 8 SFR/US$, cold starters between 6.50 and 16.50 SFR/US$, items from the wood oven from 2 to 18.50 SFR/US$, warm starters between 6 and 18.50 SFR/US$, grilled mains at 38 and 39.50 SFR/US$ as well as desserts at 12.50 and 22 SFR/US$. The latter is the mentioned Baklava and serves (at least) two persons. When it comes to how the food is, I am no expert in Turkish cuisine. From some online comments I read, it does not seem to be authentic all the time. Yet Elif Oskan does not pretend to be. I for one liked what we got, which was often hearty yet sometimes also imaginative! Gül, opened in 2019, has a Michelin Bib Gourmand and 15 Gault Millau points.

3. Restaurant Kle (district 3)

refined Michelin-starred vegan cuisine at Zurich’s female culinary shooting star

Kle is one of the hottest dining spots in town! The vegan restaurant, opened in 2020, took the hearts of many foodies from near and far by storm.

And among them are lots of “carnivores” too. Zineb “Zizi” Hattab, the woman behind the restaurant, has made an amazing career. Actually, she is a software engineer from Spain with Moroccan roots. Yet she developed a flair for cooking and worked for several known names in the business (for instance Andreas Caminada). And now she has become Switzerland’s vegan queen with her inventive and elaborate dishes!

Is is difficult to get a table at Kle, despite their offering two dinner seatings. The restaurant, a former neighborhood dining spot, is rather small.

In case you are not successful at securing a reservation here, give Zizi Hattab’s second restaurant, Dar,

a try. It is bigger, more down to earth and family style (see my post). Or go for drinks and snacks to the wine bar Cor,

her third spot. And her latest project was it to move her Kle during five weeks to Saint Moritz to the prestigious Hotel Badrutt’s Palace! She really keeps herself busy.

Busy is a good key word when it comes to dining at Kle. It is a well organized affair, yet sometimes you feel as guest like being in a steady assembly line operation. And the pleasant staff seems to be overwhelmed at times. If you happen to be in the first shift, people already queue for the second one long before the designated time. And this might make you – and the servers – a bit jumpy, especially in case you are seated outside. But the most important thing, a high food quality, was still granted on my visit on a hot Saturday evening. Dining at Zurich’s top shot chef is really worth it. There is a surprise menu only, either in five or six courses (120/134 SFR/US$).

Kle has a Michelin star and 15 Gault Millau points.

4. Restaurant Chicería Cantina (district 4)

hearty Peruvian food at Restaurant Barranco’s little sister

Cantina is the smaller sister of Restaurant Barranco (see my post).

And this is literally meant. Everything is a bit simpler and more down to earth than at the much beloved Barranco. The leader crew is the same, Christina Tobler Orbegoso, a half Peruvian, as manager and chef José Severino. You get hearty Peruvian food home-cooking style at this former neighborhood restaurant.

As to the food offerings, they serve two kinds of ceviche – of course –

and other rather rustic dishes, yet sometimes with a twist. On my visit not long after the opening in late 2022, it was a traditional starter-main-dessert structure. Now the food is meant for sharing as it is the case at its sister property. Whereas the selection of hot items was a bit underwhelming at the time, this obviously has changed in the meantime. There seem to be more intriguing options on the menu lately. Specifically, there are ten plates to share between 12 and 36 SFR/US$. Plus, you find three side dishes from 4 to 10 SFR/US$ and two desserts at 16 and 17 SFR/US$.

As to how it is at Cantina, the setting is nice albeit the tables are tightly packed. I liked the decor with lots of multi-colored South American cushions and doilies.

Food was fine, especially the ceviches and the desserts. The hot dishes were good yet not really exciting. The staff was friendly enough yet a bit taciturn – probably due to lacking language skills. Overall, going through my dinner at the Cantina in early 2023, I thought they still needed to step up their game a bit.

After these four restaurants with ambitious cuisine yet a rather relaxed ambiance, now to three more conventional fine dining establishments.

3 of the best fancy fine-dining restaurants in Zurich

The first dining spot I am going into is not exactly a new discovery in Zurich. Yet I have not dined here for quite some time – and have not mentioned it on my blog so far. Plus, it is quite a unique place in Zurich. So, I thought that I should it include here. The other two however are newly (re-)opened restaurants. And I am sure we will hear a lot more about them in the time to come.

1. Restaurant Bianchi (district 1)

for sure the freshest and probably the best fish restaurant in town

Bianchi is a local fixture.

The restaurant is a joint venture between the most known Swiss fish dealer Bianchi and Bindella. The latter is a family owned company in the wine and gastronomy business. It goes almost without saying, you get fish and seafood at Bianchi, and the possibly best in town. It is about classics here. Many of the dishes have been on the menu since the beginnings in 2008. Think of freshly caught pikeperch, sea bass or tuna, prepared in various ways. And imagine, fish is delivered twice daily!

When dining at Bianchi, you look in vain for meat dishes on the menu. Instead you can make your choice out of several starters (from 18 to 44 SFR/US$), pasta and risotto (29 to 68 SFR/US$), freshwater fish (54 and 56 SFR/US$) and sea fish (49 to 68 SFR/US$). In addition, there is a variety of grilled fish and seafood. King prawns, scallops and king scampis cost per unit (8.50 to 12.50 SFR/US$). A seafood selection from the grill amounts to 78 SFR/US$.

As you might have noticed, dining at Bianchi is no inexpensive affair. Yet the portions are generous and the kitchen helmed by Lucio Paiano, knows how to prepare the delicate fish and seafood. From what I read, there are exclusively Italian chefs at work at Bianchi. This is evident in the desserts with lots of Italian options (from 12 to 16 SFR/US$). Service under the lead of Paulo Alexandre, a born Portuguese, is old school, polite and efficient. The restaurant, set on the water (Limmat river), is elegant and very close to the main train station. As to awards, Bianchi is Michelin listed and has 14 Gault Millau points.

2. Restaurant Orsini by Mandarin Oriental (district 1)

refined high-end Italian cuisine at one of Zurich’s chicest restaurants

Restaurant Orsini used to be one of Zurich’s fine-dining fixtures (see my post). And now it has reopened under a new management, hosted by Mandarin Oriental Savoy, end of 2023. And this hotel group has big plans with its flagship restaurant in Zurich. The “old” Orsini was a high-end Italian restaurant and the same is true for the “new”. But there is a difference, now it is about modern Italian cuisine, while in the past there was an emphasis on a traditional one.

When entering the premises, you soon notice that not one stone is left on another. Said that, the entrance gate remained, however the art nouveau lamps lining the entrance area had to give way to more contemporary ones.

I liked the modern interior design, kept in light beige tones and with striped columns, wooden floors and panelings.

And the staff led by Anaïs Boutin suited the chic space. It was professional, obliging and smooth. But of course, my husband and I together with good friends came first of all for the substance, not for the style. And that is of course the food (four-/six-course menu 155/175 SFR/US$, à la carte from 20 to 95 SFR/US$).

What can I say? I was delighted by what they had in store for us. The dining experience at the new Orsini restaurant was nothing short of fantastic, both in terms of appearance and taste. The six-course tasting menu was a series of highlights.

Among others it featured a fabulous lukewarm mackerel with almond almond milk, two best-of pasta dishes or a succulent blue lobster.

And the sweet dishes were out-of-this-world amazing! Here, the highly talented Andy Vorbusch – Restaurant Memories (see my post) – is at work. As to the chef, it is about Dario Moresco. He was appointed by two-star Michelin chef Antonio Guida (Mandarin Oriental Milan), who also acts as a supervisor at the new Orsini. I am sure the first Michelin star will be awarded soon! There is just one downer, the wine list with overpriced wines too young to drink.

3. Restaurant AN Fine Dining (District 1)

UPDATE: Oscar de Matos leaves end of June 2024

new worlds of taste at stylish restaurant headed by brilliant chef who learned his craft at El Bulli

And yet another highly talented chef pitches his tent in Zurich! It is about Oscar de Matos who took over the fine dining restaurant at Restaurant AN as from February 2024. He does this in cooperation with Marcus G. Lindner, a top shot in Switzerland’s culinary scene. The whole thing takes place at Restaurant AN, which was opened end of 2023 just a short walk from the main train station. In a first step, only the casual dining spot on the ground floor started the business. Here you get Chinese-European cuisine with a special focus on dumplings.

The thing with the dumplings is not just a coincidence. Behind AN is Yifei Li Ledermann, a Chinese-born ex-model. Since some time, she has been working in the hospitality industry and now established AN – her nickname, it means calm – together with her husband, entrepreneur Marc Ledermann. It was her dream to create a place where East and West meet in a culinary experience. And this in a cozy, refined atmosphere. While this involves a cool, chic place in red and black on the ground floor, it is about an intimate one on the upper floor. AN Fine Dining caters for a maximum of 22 guests only and is kept in subtle rose and blue hues.

Whereas chef Oscar de Matos – known as Lucerne’s culinary star at Restaurant Maihöfli where he earned a Michelin star – works in the kitchen, his partner Nadine Baumgartner is responsible for the front of the house. And she does this in an amiable, competent way. Yet also the chef was very visible on the evening my family and I dined at AN, which was not busy (Sechseläuten-weekend). He placed all the plates of the five-course meal (185 SFR/US$) – can be expanded by three more courses – in front of us and explained them.

And the food, it was a culinary revelation! The chef really has a knack for fermentation! He creates dishes that are unparalleled in terms of taste. It is mind blowing what he does with supposedly ordinary ingredients that he combines with unusual ones from foreign cuisines just as the Japanese or the Mexican ones. While I loved everything I ate here, I was absolutely blown away by the first course “Kohlrabi”, paired with salted caramel chipotle, buttermilk vinaigrette and chili oil.

What an intense taste sensation! Michelin stars are just a matter of time …

Outlook on what is to come as to fine-dining restaurants in Switzerland

As announced earlier, this is not all I have to offer when it comes to (casual) fine dining in Zurich.

There is more outside of town. It is about three Michelin (starred) restaurants to reach from Zurich city in less than half an hour, either by car or train. Later on, I will also blog on three gourmet dining-spots in Basel that I visited in 2023 and 2024 for the first time.

Date of visits: March 2023 – April 2024

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I just wanted to let you know that I have updated my Switzerland directories for traveling and dining in style for 2024! There are the four of them. The first two are about where to go in my lovely home country. You find not only a grand tour of Switzerland but also an overview of premium destinations for the discerning traveler. Furthermore, I inform on where to stay and where to dine in style while traveling along the grand tour through this Alpine nation.

Here are the details:

1. Guide to visiting Switzerland
2. Premium destinations in Switzerland
3. Guide to luxury hotels in Switzerland, part one – core and west
4. Guide to luxury hotels in Switzerland, part two – Alps and east
5. Directory to fine dining in Switzerland, part one – core and west
6. Directory to fine dining in Switzerland, part two – Alps and east

I would like to highlight in particular my advice to foodies spots in Switzerland (5. and 6.).

It is based on dining directories just as the Michelin Guide and the Gault Millau Guide. And whenever they publish a new edition I amend my articles accordingly. But of course my personal opinions also play a role when creating them.

One more remark to end this short blogpost about my freshly updated Switzerland dine and travel in style guides. It is about how to use them. In case you do not want to read them from A to Z – which I would perfectly understand as they are quite long – , then proceed as follows. If you are only interested in a specific place, go to the contents section and click at “show”. Go to the spot of your choice and only read the correspondent paragraph!

Happy traveling and dining to all of you in 2024! And maybe let me know what you think about my directories.

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On our Montreux stay, my husband and I had dinner at both Michelin starred restaurants in town. This is about Restaurant Maison Décotterd and Restaurant Pont de Brent. We did so on our 14-day trip through north Italy and west Switzerland. Montreux was our last stop and we had to celebrate not only the end of a great journey but also a special birthday. So we splurged a last time before heading home. Yet we did so all along the trip – we “accumulated “eight Michelin stars in total!

In the meantime, there is only one left from these two Michelin starred dining-spots in Montreux, and this is Maison Décotterd. Pont de Brent on the other hand went bankrupt at the beginning of November 2023. Notwithstanding that, I will go into both establishments, although differently. Before doing so, first to the itinerary of our “gourmet journey”.

14-day itinerary through north Italy and west Switzerland

The start of our trip – that was not “only” destined to dining in style – , was in South Tyrol in Italy’s northernmost district. Here we lodged first in the Merano area. Then we continued to the Bolzano region where we headed to the Sarentino valley. Next was Lake Garda, precisely the small town of Gardone Riviera on its southwestern shore. Check out where we stayed and dined in style on Italy’s biggest lake. And last – as mentioned – , we were in Montreux in west Switzerland.

If you are wondering which hotel we chose for our Montreux stay, we revisited one that we already knew from a stay in 2021. It is about Hotel Victoria in Glion, high above Montreux (see my post). And it is only a few minutes by foot away from one of the mentioned Michelin starred restaurants in Montreux we went, Maison Décotterd.

1. Restaurant Maison Décotterd in Glion/Montreux

About

This restaurant in Montreux is awarded not only one Michelin star – it even used to have two of them – , it also has 18 points in the Gault Millau guide. Last time when we stayed in the area (in 2021), it was at another location. And funnily enough, it was housed in the other dining spot I am going to write about, Restaurant Pont de Brent.

But first things first. Restaurant Pont de Brent used to be one of few three-star Michelin dining-spots in Switzerland. At the time, it was helmed by Gérard Rabaey, who still owns the it. Stéphane Décotterd, who now is the chef at Maison Décotterd, was his sous chef of many years. When the three-star Michelin chef retired, he handed over the restaurant to his sous chef. For ten long years, Stéphane Décotterd worked at Pont de Brent before he moved to Glion in fall 2021, to the surprise of many. And this to a much bigger establishment than before.

The change of location brought him not only luck. In contrast to his earlier place of work where he had two Michelin stars, Maison Décotterd was “only” awarded one of those. And also in the time to follow, the rating stayed unchanged.

What to expect at Maison Décotterd?

Maison Décotterd is housed in the buildings of the Glion hospitality management school, and the setting could not been much nicer. From here you have the most fantastic views of Lake Geneva and mountains.

At Maison Décotterd, you find not only the gourmet dining spot, Restaurant Stéphane Décotterd, but also the Bistro

and the Lounge Bar.

In the following, it is about the former only.

Restaurant Stéphane Décotterd is a gorgeous place for dining in style. Not only the vista is impressive, the same is true for the service brigade. But I think they can benefit from the in-house students. We were welcomed in the most perfect manner and asked whether we wanted to go straight to our table or to the Lounge Bar first. We opted for the latter, yet I think it would be better to head to your table right away in order to take in the views as soon as possible. Anyway, the setting is elegant indeed, at both spots.

Food wise, you have to decide between the tasting menu or the à la carte option. The former consists of nine courses at 285 SFR/US$. Alternatively, you can have it with seven courses at SFR 215/US$. In case you go for à la carte, starters cost between 57 and 80 SFR/US$, seafood from 63 to 85 SFR/US$ and meat between 90 and 105 SFR/US$. You can also order mains for two, Wagyu for 315 SFR/US$ or – by prior reservation – dry aged duck for 195 SFR/US$. Cheese and dessert dishes amount to 35 SFR/US$ each.

How was it?

The setting at Maison Décotterd is hard to beat, both as to the dining room and to the views. Service was generally good yet not outstanding. Twice we had to look out for the sommelier to top our wine glasses. Otherwise, they were courteous and informative. After dinner, the chef himself did the tour to greet his guests, which is always a good thing.

With regard to food, the chef has not been relying on luxury products just as lobster or foie for quite some years. Instead, he is focusing on regional and seasonal fare. We got a delightfully balanced series of artfully composed dishes that were a feast for the tastebuds. One fish course, a local Fera, which was tender and flavorful, was prepared tableside. Only the praline that came with the veal chiffonnade was not to my liking (braised meat and truffles, I suppose). I found it undefinable and a bit tough.

The desserts, for which Christophe Loeffel is responsible, deserve a special mention. He is courageous enough to do unusual combinations of flavors. In addition, he has a knack for fresh creations. This is evident in the second dessert, where he paired Granny Smith apple with Crème Double and dill.

As to the sweet things, we got petit fours before and after the desserts, a first for me!

2. Restaurant Pont de Brent in Brent/Montreux

I was sad to hear the news that the young couple running Restaurant Pont de Brent since mid 2022 did not make it. Yet, I hate to say that it did not come as a surprise to me. Of course, it is easy to make judgments once an event has already happened. But my husband and I had a clouded impression of the dinner we had here almost two months before it closed down.

My reporting about Restaurant Pont de Brent is divided into two parts. First, I will go into the young couple’s story at this dining-spot to some extent. Second, there will be details about our dining experience here.

Antoine Gonnet and Amandine Pivault at Restaurant Pont de Brent

Part I: the start

After the departure of Stéphane Decotterd at Restaurant Pont de Brent, Gérard Rabeaey, owner and former three-star Michelin chef here, went on a search for a new chef. And he found a young couple for his small house, starting in June 2022. This was about Antoine Gonnet, chef, and Amandine Pivault, host. The young couple had worked at a tiny place before, Restaurant Le 42 in Champéry. Under their regime, it got a Michelin star.

And it seems that they started successfully at Pont de Brent. Already in fall 2022, this restaurant in Montreux received a Michelin star. And the Gault Millau guide awarded 17 points to the dining-spot as a starter. From what is now known (interview with Gault-Millau), the first half year was promising with lots of guests.

Part II: the decline

In 2023, it became clear that the number of regulars was lower than expected. After the initial curiosity, the interest of the clientele waned. At the end, they served 200 meals less per month than in the previous year. The young couple thinks that they made the mistake of investing too much, too quickly, in both equipment and staff (a team of 5 chefs). And so, the judge finally declared bankruptcy on the third of November, 2023.

In the meantime, both have new jobs. This time the couple is in an employment relationship. And they are back at the spot where they came from, the Illiez valley. Their comeback however is not about gaining stars and points in the first place. And this is because they work now in a more modest establishment (Winstub at the Peanut Mountain Lodge).

Dinner experience at Pont de Brent

In order to have dinner at this Michelin starred restaurant in Montreux, we had to make a deposit of 100 SFR/US$ to secure our reservation. I did not wonder too much about this procedure at the time. No shows definitely seem to be at problem at restaurants nowadays! On our arrival (a Thursday evening), I was astonished to see that the place was far from being full, only four tables were occupied. From the beginning, we felt not really comfortable at Pont de Brent. Both the host and another staff member seemed somewhat reserved. It made the impression of tension in the air.

When I later heard about the bankruptcy, the scales fell from my eyes. I realized then what had been going on when we had dinner here. They already were at a low point at the time! And we had noticed it on an unconscious level. Be it as it may, the evening proceeded in the usual manner. We marveled at the fresh and merry design of the dining-spot. When it came to what to order, we opted for the smaller menu (5 courses for 170 SFR/US$).

The bigger menu had two courses more (210 SFR/US$).

In terms of food, I can only say positive things. Each dish was bursting with flavor and cooked to perfection. I especially liked the tomato mussel variation

and the main course, beef paired with plum and Szechuan pepper.

And everything was arranged nicely, often on more than one plate. Having said that, the portions were rather small. In addition, neither an amuse bouche nor a pre-dessert were served. We had to feast on the tasty bread in order to get enough. But in this respect, Pont de Brent is not really an exception.

Overall Michelin starred restaurants in Montreux

While Maison Décotterd met our (high) expectations in most aspects, Pont de Brent did not. Of course, you cannot necessarily compare these two Michelin starred restaurants in Montreux. Whereas the former is a sophisticated establishment with lots of space, elegant interiors and splendid views, the latter is somewhat more modest. It is smaller and there is something more rural about it, despite its rather contemporary look.

On our visit, Pont de Brent was convincing food wise. There was nothing to complain about whatsoever. Everything was perfect. As to the service, it was more complicated. At first sight, it was without fault or blame. But something important was missing, it lacked dedication. I now think that was due to the difficult situation they were in. Probably, they had already given up, I cannot know.

The same is true when it comes to the question why it did not work out with Antoine Gonnet and Amandine Pivault at Pont de Brent. Did they want too much? Or were they not experienced enough? Did the former regulars go with Stéphane Décotterd to his new place? Be it as it may, it is always sad seeing talented people fail. But the restaurant business is a hard one, today more than ever.

Date of visit: September 2023

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Yet another road trip in north Italy and west Switzerland was on my husband’s and my agenda this late summer. And this after already doing one to Italy’s north (and France’s south) in 2021 (see my post). But this region in Italy has so much to offer in terms of great destinations, luxury hotels and Michelin (starred) dining spots. And contrary to our last journey, we went more east this time, to Trentino-South Tyrol and Lombardy. Before coming to details where we were headed (this and the last trip), some info on our travel focus. My husband and I like to travel in style. That means looking for high-end lodging and Michelin fine dining wherever we get to. Yet we attach great importance to not paying exorbitant prices.

Now to the itineraries as announced.

North Italy & west Switzerland 14-day road trip itinerary

For the itinerary of our last trip in the area, check out my correspondent post. It went to northern Italy and southern France in 11 days. As to the Italian part, we started in the Piedmont (Lake Orta and around Alba) and continued to the Italian Riviera (Alassio). After crossing the border to France, we headed first to Vence (French Riviera), then to the Provence (near Les Baux-de-Provence). The last stop before returning to Switzerland was in Vienne, south of Lyon.

This time, we began our journey in the Trentino-South Tyrol (Italian: Trentino-Alto Adige). Find here my Google Map of it.

Our first two destinations were in the South Tyrol. Dorf Tirol (Italian: Tirolo) above Meran (Italian: Merano)

made the start – not to be confused with the Austrian region of the same name! You might have already noticed it, the South Tyrol is bilingual (German and Italy), not so the Trentino. Next was the nearby Sarntal (Italian: Sarentino valley)

above Bozen (Italian: Bolzano). And the last stop in Italy were the Italian Lakes, precisely Lake Garda.

While its northern part is still in the Trentino-South Tyrol region, the place we went – Gardone Riviera (hotel/restaurants) – is already in the Lombardy (Italian: Lormbardia). The final destination of our trip was the Lake Geneva region, in the western part of Switzerland, exactly Glion/Montreux.

From place to place in north Italy & west Switzerland

As my husband and I like to travel in style – without losing sight of value for money -, we made sure to stay at upscale hotels and to dine at gourmet restaurants, preferably Michelin listed or starred places. This was not really a difficult thing to do as north Italy and west Switzerland has quite a choice for lovers of fine lodging and dining.

I always begin with a short description of the respective town/region and continue with providing some brief information on the high-end hotel we stayed and on the fine dining spot(s) we ate in this place. Sometimes, I will also mention some other places to stay and dine in style in the area that might be worth trying out.

1. Tirolo above Merano, Trentino-South Tyrol

1.1. About Tirolo

Tirolo is located above Merano, the hub here. As to the latter, it is small yet fine spa town in the heart of the South Tyrol. Actually, it is the second largest city in the South Tyrol (about 40,000 inhabitants). This medieval town has been a popular place to go since Empress Elisabeth of Austria (Sissi) started coming here. And she did this especially because of its spa and its almost Mediterranean climate. Lots of buildings, parks and promenades stem from this time.

And if you like walking, Merano and its surroundings is known for its abundance of Waalwege, trails alongs irrigation canals.

As far as Tirolo is concerned, it also is steeped in culture and history. You find here and around it some notable castles, fortresses and churches, from which the Tyrol Castle is the most prominent. Otherwise, the small village (about 2,500 inhabitants) draws lots of vacationeers in search of sun, panoramic vistas and hiking opportunities.

You can reach Merano from here in a short drive either by car or by bus. There is also a chairlift connecting these two places.

1.2. Which hotel to choose as demanding guest in Tirolo

There is a huge selection of luxury hotels in the Merano area to choose from. After having stayed here several times in the past, I have identified two of the best (see also my correspondent post). While we tried out a “new one” on our last stay, this time we returned to the one we knew from two previous stays. And I have to say that this luxury hotel is hard to beat! The latest renovation (2021) made it a state-of-the-art property with all the amenities you can think of. It is about Hotel Castel in Tirolo. It also hosts the one and only two-star Michelin restaurant in the Merano region. A post to come will go into more details of this stunning lodging.

1.3. Where to go for great Michelin listed (starred) restaurants in Tirolo

I just mentioned it, you do not have to leave your hotel in case you stay at the Castel in Tirolo when looking for best fine dining in the area. This is because the top place in this respect is on site. It is about Restaurant Castel Fine Dining, a Michelin two-starred establishment, and this since 2010 (formerly Trenkerstube).

When being a hotel guest at Hotel Castel, you are on half board – there is no other noteworthy (Michelin) fine dining in Tirolo anyway. And this arrangement allows you to enjoy exquisite food without even visiting the mentioned Michelin starred Restaurant Castel Fine Dining.

Notwithstanding that, when being a fine food lover, I highly recommend dining here once during your stay. This gives you not only the opportunity to indulge in chef Gerhard Wieser’s signature dishes but also to check out one of the most beautiful dining rooms I have ever encountered (only five tables and all have this tremendous view of Merano from high above). More about dining at Hotel Castel and at Restaurant Castel Fine Dining follows in the above mentioned future post.

2. Sarentino valley above Bolzano, Trentino-South Tyrol

2.1. About the Sarentino valley

The Sarentino valley stretches northwards from Bolzano, South Tyrol’s capital and its largest city (about 110,000 inhabitants). When coming from Merano, I recommend to make a short stop in Bolzano to check out its beautiful old town.

This especially given the fact that you only need about one hour for your drive from Merano to the hamlet above Sarnthein (Sarentino), the valley’s capital, where our choice of hotel is located. Bolzano – as Merano – was influenced by Germanic and Italian currents, yet I personally find that it feels more Italian than Merano.

Just a few kilometers/miles away from the bustling regional center of Bolzano you reach the idyllic village of Sarentino (2,300 inhabitants). This is another world, full of wild nature and far off the beaten track. And the area is great for hiking with a view. A great panoramic vista awaits you – among others the entire spectrum of the Dolomites, a UNESCO world natural heritage.

While you are in the village of Sarentino at 980 m/3,315 ft above sea level, you have to climb further  up in order to come to Prati/Auen where you find the hotel I am going to inform you about. And the road to it is narrow!

2.2. Where to stay in the Sarentino valley as discerning traveler

First and foremost, there is one place in the area that makes people loving the finer things in life to come here. And this is Hotel Terra The Magic Place! Once you have the before mentioned narrow road behind you, you made it to this remote spot at 1,622 m/5,322 ft above sea level. There are a public parking lot (for hikers), a ski hut and this amazing hotel you would not think finding here. It is a Relais & Châteaux property that has seen several renovations and expansions since 2010, a true gem surrounded by unspoiled nature. And imagine it not only offers immaculate lodging but also a two-star Michelin dining-spot! If you want to know more about this place, one of my next blogpost will go into it.

In case you are looking for prime lodging around the village of Sarentino

and nearer to Bolzano, Hotel Bad Schoergau might be a good option too. I have not been here but I liked what I saw when checking it out on the internet.

2.3. Where to dine in style in the Sarentino valley

What draws hard-core foodies to the Sarentino valley, is of course the mentioned Michelin two-starred Restaurant Terra at Hotel Terra The Magic Place high above the village of Sarentino. You will find more info about it in my post about the hotel in question soon on my blog.

Yet there is more of fine dining in the village of Sarentino. On the one hand, it is about the Michelin listed dining spot at the already highlighted Hotel Bad Schoergau, the Ristorante Alpes/La FuGa. On the other hand, you find a Michelin eatery in town too, Restaurant Braunwirt. I have not dined at either of them, so I cannot comment, but the reviews are good.

3. Gardone Riviera on Lake Garda, Lombardy

3.1. About Gardone Riviera

Before coming to the town of Gardone Riviera, a few words about Lake Garda. It is one of the Italian Lakes, a group of larges lakes on the south side of the Alps, all of them glacial ones. And Lake Garda is not only the largest of them but also in whole Italy. On its western shore, you find the Lemon Riviera – from Salò to Limone. This stretch along the lake has a mild, Mediterranean-like climate, so even citrus fruits grow here.

As to Gardone Riviera – on the Lemon Riviera – , it is favorably located for many sights. Not only boasts it some important ones on site – Il Vittoriale degli Italiani (a Gesamtkunstwerk of house, monument and fantasy)

or the Heller Botanical Garden,

it is close to many others. I mention here for example Salò, the region’s town with the nicest Lungolago (lakeside promenade)

or Sirmione, THE tourist attraction in the area (expect masses of people here) with the Scaliger Castle (an extraordinary lakeside fortification)

or the Grottoes of Catullus (a striking example of a Roman villa, now in ruins).

While Gardone Riviera is not large (it only has a bit more than 2,500 inhabitants), it has everything that makes a real place – a nice Lungolago, a small old quarter by the lake, an old town on the hillside. And its laid-back ambiance is a plus too. And it is even considered as one of the most beautiful villages in Italy (part of I Borghi più Belli d’Italia).

3.2. Which luxury hotel to choose in Gardone Riviera

You find quite a number of upscale hotels in Gardone Riviera. Many of them are late 19th, early 20th century properties. Some line the lake front, others are located hillside, overlooking the lake. At the end, we had fluctuated between Hotel Bella Riva and Grand Hotel Fasano. Finally, we decided for the latter, and this for various reasons. First, it is a wonderful old building in a stately park among ancient trees, frontally facing the lake. Second, it is closer to the town center. Third, it has a Michelin listed restaurant on site.

And we were not disappointed by our choice. It is such a beautiful property, a fantastic example of neoclassical style architecture. The building was constructed in 1888 as a hunting lodge for the Austrian imperial family. And it was declared a National Heritage Site by the Ministry of Cultural Heritage. The Fasano, part of the Leading Hotels of the World, also underwent some renovations recently. So, we enjoyed among other things an updated guest room with a great lake view. If you should be interested in more information about this accommodation, I will provide some in a post to come.

3.3. Where to go a fine dining lover in Gardone Riviera

I already let you know that Grand Hotel Fasano hosts a Michelin listed restaurant. It is about Restaurant Il Fagiano, helmed by a Michelin one-star chef.

But there is more around for gourmets! If you are a hard-core foodie, try to get a booking at Restaurant Lido 84.

This beautifully located restaurant right on the lake has a Michelin star plus it ranks No 7 on the list of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants.

And there are two more Michelin restaurants in this picturesque lakeside town. On the one hand, you find here Restaurant Fiordaliso at the Hotel of the same name. Again, it has this stunning location at the water’s edge.

On the other hand, Gardone Riviera’s scenic old town also features an awarded dining-spot. It is about Osteria Antico Brolo in a rustic 18th century building.

All the restaurants I just mentioned can be reached by foot from Grand Hotel Fasano. While Restaurant Lido 84 and Restaurant Fiordaliso are very close, Osteria Antico Brolo is a bit further away, you get here in about a 15 minute walk. You will find out about how it is dining at all these four dining spots in a future post, along with the lodging experience at Grand Hotel Fasano.

4. Glion above Montreux on Lake Geneva

4.1. About Glion/Montreux & where to stay here in style

I will not go into details here as I have already informed about this topic in a previous post. If you want to know more about the Lake Geneva region, especially about the Montreux Riviera and Lausanne, have a look here. As far as our lodging in Glion is concerned, we returned to one we already had stayed at back in 2021. Find here the hotel review of Hotel and Restaurant Victoria.

4.2. Michelin starred dining in Montreux area

In addition to dining at the hotel restaurant again (see above), we tried out two more dining-spots. Both of them are awarded with a Michelin star. It is about one in Glion itself, the other in another village above Montreux. The first is Restaurant Le Pont de Brent in Brent (UPADATE: out of business in November 2023).

You can reach it in a ten-minute drive (best by taxi or Uber) from Hotel Victoria. The other is Maison Décotterd, only a few minutes away by foot from this accommdation.

A post to follow will give you an impression of how it is dining at these two gourmet temples.

What is next about north Italy & west Switzerland

I already let you know, I do not want to leave it at the itinerary and some short remarks as to our north Italy & west Switzerland 14 day-trip in style. I want to delve deeper and let you know how it was in every single place. The start makes the Merano area, followed by the Sarentino valley, both in the South Tyrol. I continue with the Lake Garda region, and this with the southwestern part, also called Lemon Riviera (hotel/restaurants). And the end sets an area in western Switzerland. And this is Montreux on Lake Geneva.

After having made the one or two bits of information on the respective places in general (what to expect as a traveler here), I will not offer more details in this regard. Instead, I will put a focus on the upscale hotels we stayed and the Michelin restaurants we dined. Actually, all the dining spots we visited on this journey through north Italy and west Switzerland are listed in the Michelin Guide except one (Restaurant Victoria Glion). Six of them even are Michelin-starred, that means we “collected” eight Michelin stars in total!

I will publish a post for each place. Consequently, there will be following four more blogposts on this topic:

• Hotel Castel in Tirolo/South Tyrol with two-star Michelin Restaurant Castel Fine Dining,
• Hotel Terra in the Sarentino valley/South Tyrol with two-star Michelin Restaurant Terra,
• Grand Hotel Fasano in Gardone Riviera/Lake Garda with Michelin starred Restaurant Il Fagiano plus three more foodie spots in town,
• two one-star Michelin restaurants in Montreux/Lake Geneva

Other similar itineraries

In case you should be interested in other similar itineraries than this current one about northwest Italy and southeast France, here are more:

• Northern Italy & southern France in style, a 11-day road trip itinerary
• 11 days on the road in the Piedmont & west Switzerland in luxury

Date of stay: September 2023

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You find a summary of this post in English at the end!

Wiedereröffnung “neue” Brücke mit einzigartigem Ergänzungsbau:

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Basel, Switzerland’s third largest city, is a good place for dining out in style. While its culinary scene has not been as dynamic as the one in Zurich in the recent past, it is still worth going to as a gourmet. In case you are heading to Zurich in search of great restaurants, also check out my posts that I published a short time ago: fine dining Zurich, casual fine dining Zurich and (casual) fine dining Zurich area. But back to Basel where I have lunched quite a few times lately, and this due to the fact that I resumed a relationship with a dear friend who comes from here. So I am able to provide information of five of the best fine dining restaurants in Basel and surroundings.

Before coming to the establishments in question, four in the city and one in the Basel area, a few lines to the city’s top fine dining outlets.

Short overview of Basel’s top gastronomy

As mentioned, Basel’s upscale restaurant scene is not as broad as the one in Zurich, Switzerland’s largest city. Yet it is impressive all the same. The showpiece here is Restaurant Cheval Blanc by Peter Knogl at Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois for sure, one of only four Michelin three-star dining spots in Switzerland. I have not eaten yet at the grand master of “haute cuisine classique”, but a visit here is certainly on my bucket list.

Another well known name in Basel is the Michelin two-star Restaurant Stucki – Tanja Grandits. I have dined here several times in the past. And I also happened to have lunch here a short time ago, so I can report on a recent eating experience too. On offer is a modern, creative cuisine.

The rising star chef in Basel is Pascal Steffen at Restaurant Roots, no doubt. Since he has opened his relaxed place in 2017, he knows how to persuade with creative and varied creations. While they are predominately vegetarian, you also get meat and fish. And the young chef’s efforts were crowned with the second Michelin star in fall 2022. Again, I have not been here yet. However, my friend and I had a lunch reservation at Roots just when the second wave of Covid-19 started. Therefore, we cancelled it. After restaurants were allowed to open again, there was unfortunately no lunch service anymore. Yet Roots is still on my “to do” list!

Some of the best fine dining spots in Basel and surroundings

I have visited all the restaurants I am going to write about in the course of the last two and a half years. And I have been at four out of five spots for the first time ever. The only place I was familiar with, is Restaurant Stucki – Tanja Grandits where I had already enjoyed dinner on two different occasions in the distant past. Having said that, I know one more chef from the restaurant he used to cook before, and this is Andreas Schuermann, currently at Restaurant Zum Wilde Maa.

1. Restaurant Stucki – Tanja Grandits Basel (left river bank, Bruderholz)

creative cuisine by the country’s best female chef in posh neighborhood

This is the place I know best as I have already eaten here three times, this with bigger time gaps between. And each time, the experience was quite different from the one before. I limit myself on the recent visit where I had lunch at Restaurant Stucki – Tanja Grandits.

Tanja Grandits, Switzerland’s most known and probably best female chef, has been in charge at Restaurant Stucki since 2008. If you wonder about the restaurant’s name, it goes back to the former chef, Hans Stucki, who helmed it during 40 long years (and got two Michelin stars). In terms of awards, Tanja Grandits is as successful as her predecessor (two stars Michelin, 19 point Gault Millau). She, who once studied chemistry, celebrates a subtle cuisine and is considered as “queen” of  colors and flavors. Harmony is important to her, not only from the point of view of culinary but also aesthetically speaking. And nature is her biggest source of inspiration.

When I had dinner at Stucki for the first time, not only the food was kept in aubergine but also the dining room. Nowadays, the interiors are decorated in warm colors, as you experience it in many restaurants these days.

The restaurant is housed in an imposing building that suits the posh neighborhood where it is situated.

On my latest visit, staff was discreet, cordial and smooth. The chef said hello to us, as she had always done on previous occasions.

Food is a big deal here, also at lunch time. There is either the business lunch or the full menu to choose from. As to the former, you can decide on three to five courses (95/125/140 SFR/US$). There is a selection of two starters, two second courses, three mains and two desserts.

In terms of the latter – the flavor menu – it comprises of nine courses and costs 265 SFR/US$. Price wise, eating here is not inexpensive yet probably justified for the experience.

2. Restaurant Im Ackermannshof Basel (left river bank)

best upscale Italian cuisine in historic premises

Since April 2021, chef Flavio Fermi has been back in Basel (before in Bad Bubendorf), where he started his culinary career. He his now at the Ackermannshof, a dining spot in a historic townhouse in the city’s St. Johanns-Vorstadt (suburb of Saint Johann).

He brought along the hosts from his former place of work as well (Roland and Evelyne Tischhauser). The chef is considered as the master of the Italian cuisine in the area. And he ist not only talented but also ambitious.

When my friend and I lunched here, three months after opening, it was not overly busy. We were told that is the “new normal” as a consequence of the pandemic and that they would not offer a lunch service after the summer season anymore. And I had read, that the Ackermannshof’s location is considered as “difficult” in town. Some predecessors already failed here. Be it as it may, I think that Flavio Fermi’s chances to succeed are good! The premises are not large,

you find here a somewhat small dining room, a tiny bar and a nice courtyard outdoor area. The decor is timelessly modern.

On our visit, we were first cared for by the friendly chef himself before the host, Roland Tischhauser, took over. Also the latter is amiable and at the same time knowledgeable and helpful. The food offerings for lunch were limited. We could make our choice between chicken stripes with a cream sauce, mushrooms, spaetzle and vegetables or linguine noodles with white wine, fresh tomatoes and olives. This together with a small salad or a soup costed 34 SFR/US$ respectively 29 SFR/US$.

My lunch companion and I both chose the linguine, and they were fantastic! While it was a simple meal, it was impeccably done. And the dessert, rhubarb compote with yoghurt ice cream was of the same caliber (10 SFR/US$)!

We really got value for money! I immediately knew that I had to come back for dinner soon (4 to 8 eight courses at 133/173/213 SFR/US$, awards: one Michelin star, 16 point Gault Millau).

3. Restaurant Puro at Hotel Moevenpick Basel (left river bank, main train station)

well-made South American fusion cuisine with Asian touches in new hotel high rise

When Hotel Moevenpick opened in the new built high-rise

in September 2021, this was also the hour of birth of the Puro Restaurant. It is located on the second floor of this splendid building and offers a South American fusion cuisine with Asian touches. While all the dishes are suitable for sharing, you can also order individually.

The chef, Pablo Loehle, a German who was born in Argentina, is familiar with South American food. After years of wandering through hotel kitchens in Argentina and Germany, he settled in Basel. Here he was executive chef at the Brasserie at the Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois. And now he has the same function at Restaurant Puro at the new Hotel Moevenpick Basel (14 points Gault Millau). Together with Raphaël Mazurek, he is in charge for the well-made dishes, which I found especially convincing when it came to starters.

For lunch, there are three options to choose from. First, you can opt for the Weekly Business Lunch (1, 2 or 3 courses for 30, 38 or 46 SFR/US$). Second, you can go down the sushi road (Puro Susi), a miso soup (10 SFR/US$), followed by three different sushi variations (29 to 36 SFR/US$). Third, you may try out the Puro Sharing Experience (3 to 4 dishes from 6 to 68 SFR/US$). My friend and I ordered our two individual dishes from the Cold and the Grilled & Co section and shared the bread as well as the dessert (76 SFR/US$ for each).

I found it quite expensive for what we got and it was not that plentiful either.

Dinner is a bit different, again there is the sharing experience, either in the form of the chef’s choice (4 courses for 105 SFR/US$) or you compose it yourself (3 to 4 dishes from 6 to 68 SFR/US$). When doing so, I think that you can also include the Puro Signature Sushi (2 variations, 48 and 68 SFR/US$, plus 4 sorts of Uramaki, 22 to 28 SFR/US$, and Nigiri, 6 to 14 SFR/US$).

As to the interiors, Puro is a large restaurant, but it is cleverly divided into several areas. When I was visiting a few weeks after the opening, one of them was closed down. I suppose they need all this space for their hotel guests (breakfast service etc.). The dining-room is modernly styled in warm hues, paired with natural materials. It feels elegant yet contemporary at the same time.

4. Restaurant Le Murenberg Bubendorf (Basel-Countryside, 19 minutes by car)

exquisite classic French cuisine in rural surroundings

This is the only restaurant I am going into that is not in the city of Basel but a bit outside of it. It is about Le Murenberg, located in the canton of Baselland (Basel-Countryside), precisely in Bubendorf. This is a small town in a rather rural area. And here this dining spot is housed in a somewhat unassuming building in a residential neighborhood. Yet the interiors are nice, decorated contemporarily in subdued colors.

And there is a cozy outdoor area too.

Denis and Melanie Schmitt, a husband-and-wife team, have taken over Restaurant Murenberg in 2012. And they renamed it in Le Murenberg, probably because Denis Schmitt is an Alsatian und celebrates a classic French cuisine (one Michelin star, 16 point Gault Millau).

His wife is responsible for the desserts and the service. And both had worked at 5-star hotels in Zurich before.

For lunch, you can decide on two or three courses (55 or 65 SFR/US$). The rate includes a small bottle of mineral water and a coffee. Instead, you can go for the degustation menu, the same as you get in the evening. Here you make your choice out of three to six courses (100/115/130/145 SFR/US$). In case you do not want to have the degustation menu for dinner, they also offer alternatives.

When my friend and I had lunch at Le Murenberg, the “lady of the house” was absent but we were well cared for by hospitable and informative staff. We could make our choice of two starters and three mains from the lunch menu. There was only one dessert available but this one was delicious.

The same was true for the rest of the meal. This place is a real find, not only is the food exquisite, but it is also competitively priced.

5. Restaurant Zum Wilde Maa Basel (right river bank, Kleinbasel)

UPDATE: out of business end of 2024

excellent modern cuisine by experienced chef in neighborhood-style restaurant

As stated, I know chef Andreas Schuermann from several dinners at his former place of work, Restaurant Bonvivant in Basel. Yet, I am going to report only from my recent lunch at his new restaurant. And that is Restaurant Zum Wilde Maa (stormy guy in English) that was opened in June 2020. This happened to be in the midst of the first wave of Covid-19.

This small neighborhood-style dining spot with just a few outdoor tables is located in Kleinbasel.

This is the area on the Rhine river’s right bank which was long considered as the “lesser Basel”. Nowadays, it has turned into a vibrant neighborhood with lots of trendy eateries and bars. And Zum Wilde Maa is one of them, helmed by Andreas Schuermann who is an accomplished chef. In an earlier job he even gained a Michelin star (at the moment, he holds a Michelin Bib Gourmand and 14 points Gault Millau). And you notice it! Everything I had on my recent lunch here was superb, from the beetroot soup to the Lostallo salmon with risotto (35 SFR/US$) and the chocolate tart with hazelnut ice cream (19 SFR/US$). And you do not have to break the bank for a lunch here!

Petra von Gunten, the chef’s partner, is responsible for the service, and she does it in an engaged manner. She is also into decorating. When my friend and I were here before Christmas, we astonished at the wreaths on the walls that she had made herself. I liked the interiors at Zum Wilde Maa, which are a mix between traditional and modern. And the white-clothed tables give the restaurant a stylish touch.

Short, it is a place where you feel at ease and epicurean delights are for sure. Apart from the lunch offer mentioned earlier, there is a dinner menu as well. You can either choose the chef’s menu (3, 4 or 6 courses at 69, 89 or 119 SFR/US$) or go for the à la carte menu (small dishes from 15 to 28 SFR/US$, big dishes from 19 to 55 SFR/US$).

What I found a bit odd was how a reservation request was answered when I wanted to eat here again. The host let me know that the reservation was only provisional and that there would be a follow-up. At my request two days later, I was told that she cannot book us into their restaurant right now. She informed me that I would have to wait one or two days longer. And this was three days before we wanted to have dinner here! So I canceled the request. A day later, I got another message from Petra von Gunten, and that was a cancellation from their side.

Date of visits: October 2020 – November 2022

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The post (Casual) fine dining (Michelin) restaurants in the Basel area/Switzerland first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post (Casual) fine dining (Michelin) restaurants in the Basel area/Switzerland appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

When Skin’s – the Restaurant was opened end of May 2022, there was hope for a Michelin star in the near future. Four months later, head chef Kevin Romes and his team’s efforts resulted not in one star but two of them! This was a small sensation, also for the owner of Skin’s, Felix Bertram. He is a medical doctor and founder of Skinmed, a clinic for dermatology and plastic surgery. And this healthcare facility is at the same spot as Skin’s Restaurant Lenzburg.

While I have had the restaurant on my radar since its beginning, I have dined here only recently. And so much I can tell you, it was one of the best dining experiences I have had in the recent past! In this context, I also have to mention that the dining spot’s performance was 15 points worth to Gault Millau. Find in the following some of Skin’s backstory and how it is to have dinner here.

Skin’s – the Restaurant’s backstory

I just mentioned it, Skin’s Restaurant Lenzburg is the product of a successful entrepreneur, Felix Bertram. In 2018, he opened Skinmed, a clinic for dermatology and plastic surgery, at a former industrial site in Lenzburg. This is a small town about half way between Zurich and Olten in northwestern Switzerland. The architect who was responsible for the construction of the high rise which houses the clinic

gave him a present. This was a cooking class at the Michelin two-star Restaurant Einstein in Saint Gallen (see my post about it).

And this was where he met chef Kevin Romes and Pascal Hobler, now sous chef at Skin’s.

Felix Bertram thinks that good nutrition is beneficial for beauty and health. In addition, he sees parallels between high-end cuisine and his clinic, and this regarding quality and precision. So, he decided to open a fine dining restaurant. He wanted to have Kevin Romes as head chef, who said yes. The same was true for Pascal Hobler, the sous chef. The duo has lots of freedoms from the side of the owner. The only food which they are not allowed to serve is meat from young animals, stuffed liver and similar things.

As mentioned, both the clinic and the restaurant are on the grounds of a former industrial company. It is about Hero, a producer of canned food. Quite some time ago, this company has moved to Lenzburg’s periphery. So, Skinmed found a domicile just by the town’s train station. To realize Skin’s – the Restaurant, it was necessary to expand, and this by including Hero’s former tinsmithery. A reconstruction was necessary, which costed about 1.5 million SFR/US$.

Skin’s concept: two in one

There are two operations under the Skin’s label. On the one hand, there is the fine dining spot Skin’s – the Restaurant. That is what I am going into. On the other hand, there is Skin’s – the Kitchen. The latter offers lunch service from Monday to Friday. Staff from Skinmed and other nearby companies can make use of it. Customers have to order and pay one of several one pots (about 20 SFR/US$) beforehand. They can have the meal either in-house or take it out.

But now to the focus of my post, Skin’s – the Restaurant, the fine dining outlet. It is about top gastronomy, made of high-quality produce, locally sourced whenever possible. And the aim is to newly interpret tradition, drawing influences from all over the world. Furthermore, Kevin Romes thinks that reduction is the key when cooking in the field of high-end cuisine. In his opinion, perfection is the result of applying this principle.

The team at Skin’s Restaurant Lenzburg

I already informed you that Kevin Romes is in charge at Skin’s – the Restaurant. It is his first job as a head chef. Pascal Hobler stands by his side, as sous chef. Both used to work as sous-chefs at Michelin two-star Restaurant Einstein in Saint Gallen before. If you should be interested in this restaurant, have a look at my post about it. I have had dinner here on two occasions, and I tremendously enjoyed it both times. As to Kevin Romes’ other former work places, he had been “touring” many Michelin starred restaurants in Europe and Asia for ten years.

There are four more chefs in the kitchen team at Skin’s plus a kitchen steward and a patisserie consultant. In terms of service, there are four employees, and this under the lead of restaurant manager and sommelier Basile Schneider.

Location

As you already know, Skin’s – the Restaurant is in Lenzburg, a small town in the middle between Zurich and Olten, my home town. This place in Switzerland’s northwest is part of the canton Aargau, the country’s fourth largest as to the number of inhabitants. And it has been the canton’s first dining spot to receive two Michelin stars so far.

The former industrial site, where Skin’s is situated, is just by Lenzburg’s train station. You can reach the restaurant in a 20-minute train ride from either Zurich’s main train station or from Olten. By car, you need about 30 minutes to reach it from both towns. The restaurant’s entrance is just by the railroad tracks (where you can park your car), at the back of Hero’s former tinsmithery.

Ambiance/Staff at Skin’s – the Restaurant

You are here at a former tinsmithery, and there is still this industrial vibe. Skin’s entrance is impressive. There is a small reception area on the ground floor level. Behind a golden counter, a staff member awaits you. In case you are early, there is a comfortable seating area where you can settle down until your dinner companions arrive at Skin’s Restaurant Lenzburg.

If you party is all set, you can board the elevator which brings you up to the next floor. Here you enter the spacious restaurant premises.

It is all about industrial chic in here. The interiors are dark, warm wood tones are combined with blue.

The open cuisine is large and bright. Somehow it looks like an operation room as it has an exceedingly clean feel.

Staff is friendly, informative and relaxed. The latter both in attitude and attire (black clothes and white sneakers).

When the food arrives, often a chef appears too, pouring a sauce and saying a few words about the respective dish. It very much reminded me of my dining experience at Restaurant Einstein in Saint Gallen where parts of the team worked before. Personally, I like this approach as it allows some kind of interaction between guests and chefs.

Food menu at Skin’s Restaurant Lenzburg

When dining here, you can decide either to have the full menu (7 courses for 225 SFR/US$) or five out of seven courses. In the latter case, it is up to you which ones to order, which I find customer friendly. Compared to ten months prior, menu prices have risen. The 7-course menu was 185 SFR/US$, the 5-course menu 145 SFR/US$ at the time. This move is understandable, in view of the additional two Michelin stars and increased costs in general.

Three out of four of us went for the full experience, which lasted four hours. But I think you can do it in three and a half hours – our party needed quite some time for the wine evaluation, in between courses. Alternatively, you can choose the wine pairing (7-courses 130 SFR/US$, 5-courses 95 SFR/US$). There is also an alcohol free version (7-courses 80 SFR/US$, 5-courses 60 SFR/US$).

Now to what we got at Skin’s – the Restaurant.

7-course menu (225 SFR/US$)

The regular menu contains seafood and meat. Skin’s also offers a vegetarian menu, which you have to pre-order. A vegan version is not available.

Snacks

The snacks lived up to the restaurant’s name, each of them based on a different skin (fish, carrot and pork). In addition, the carrot cuboid was a reference to the canton Aargau – Skin’s home canton – , which is known as the “carrot canton”. Kevin Romes himself came to our table and explained the snacks to us.

Bread

The dinner proceeded with bread and butter. From what I understood, they do not serve a house bread but do bake different ones. On our day, it was a brioche bread, rich and fluffy, accompanied by a delicious hazelnut butter.

Amuse bouche

Beetroot was the star of the amuse bouche, in the form of a mousse and a pleasantly sour sauce.

The latter was poured tableside. We were told that they cook the beetroots for this dish during four hours so that they become black on the outside. For illustration, they brought along some examples.

1. Ring of Zen

Bonito – Shiso – BBQ Eel

The actual start of the menu made a ring of Zen. It was the first of two dishes that had a ring on the plate. This one was a flan made of bonito. On top of it there were grilled pieces of eel. Again, the dish was completed tableside, and this by filling the ring with a liquid made of shiso and cucumber.

2. Queen of the Sea

Carabinero – Jalapeño – Cauliflower

Next was one of the most sought after prawn among foodies, a Carabinero. This is a large deep-sea species, fished in depths of 400 to 800 m (1,312 to 2,625 ft). It was paired with a mild jalapeño foam and cauliflower tempura. A crustacean stock completed the dish, again poured tableside.

3. Sea Glider

Skate – Horseraddish – Beurre Blanc

The menu was continued with yet another sea food, this time a skate fish. The delicate sea creature was aromatized with horseradish and came with a tasty beurre blanc. This was by the way one of the few buttery sauces on the menu, most others were rather on the light side.

4. Trumpet Royale

King oyster mushroom – Umami – Leek

Nowadays, chefs must be able to create delightful vegetarian dishes. And it seems that they know at Skin’s how to do this! We got a king trumpet, the largest of the oyster mushroom genus, known for its meaty texture and umami flavor. And it did not disappoint, it was perfectly cooked and arranged on the second ring of the menu. The mushroom came in unison with leek, and once again the creation was finished tableside. And this by pouring a delicious jus around it.

5. Flight to the Bazaar

Pigeon – Vadouvan – Chick Pea

Then it was time for the main course, pigeon. A small piece of pigeon breast was combined with chickpea Oriental style. The dish was flavored with vaudouvan, the French version of a curry blend and ras el-hanout, a spice mixture from North Africa. A jus accompanied the arrangement, yet another time poured tableside.

6. Golden Mountain

Vacherin – Parsley – Kissabel

If we had not known that it was the cheese course, we would have not guessed from its look. But after the first spoonful, it was clear that it was! Vacherin cheese paired with parsley and Kissabel – a red-flesh apple – resulted in a creamy harmonic blend.

Pre-dessert

After so many exciting savory courses, it was the turn of the dessert. The start made one with vegetable, precisely lettuce. Hidden unter a lettuce, we found sponge cake with pear and walnut. The dessert was accompanied by a drink with a strong lettuce taste. So original!

7. Bush and Berry

Piedmontese Hazelnut – Red Currant

That was the last sauce poured tableside of tonight! And this time, it originated from the wood of the red currant bush that was pickled before. The resulting stock became the basis of a multi-layered creation made of vanilla mousse, a core of cassis and a Piedmontese hazelnut. The whole was paired with cassis granita and a creamy foam.

After-dessert

Not enough, there was one more sweet dish! And that was a mini chocolate soufflé with vanilla ice cream. A more conventional dish after the two unusual ones!

Petits Fours

The feast was rounded up with a few few petit fours, a pistachio macaron, a lemon yuzu tart with meringue and a dark chocolate praline filled with a liquid balsamic syrup.

Overall performance of Skin’s Restaurant Lenzburg

Food wise, it was one hell of an evening for our taste buds! Skin’s – the Restaurant never let them get restless. While the creations were often ingenious, they were never too aloof. All the courses were amazing, but the star for me was the Queen of the Sea, the Carabinero. The pairings suited each other perfectly! What made the experience at Skin’s unique for me were the sauces. I go so far as to say that Kevin Romes is the king of sauces! All of them were full of flavor, complex and different from each other. In most cases, they were poured tableside, which made the experience even more intense.

What I also appreciated at Skin’s was the fact that the size of portions was adequate. The serving sizes were large enough that you could really savor the dishes. An exception to this is maybe the main course where I would have liked the piece of pigeon to be a bit bigger. Yet in no case we had to leave the place still hungry!

A big compliment to the service team, too! Service under the lead of Basile Schneider was smooth, efficient and relaxed. Our party felt well at ease. The generous spacing between tables at Skin’ added to this impression. The lighting enhanced the casual laid-back atmosphere in here. There was a strong contrast between the dimmed light at the dining room and the brightly lit open cuisine.

It is so good to have a place like Skin’s in my (distant) neighborhood (Olten). And a good advice for every foodie in Zurich – and from elsewhere – , it is well worth to make the detour to Lenzburg! This is especially true as this new gourmet temple is just by the train station.

Date of visit: March 2023

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The post Dining at the 2-star Michelin Skin’s – the Restaurant Lenzburg Switzerland first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Dining at the 2-star Michelin Skin’s – the Restaurant in Lenzburg/Switzerland appeared first on Swiss Traveler.