I just wanted to let you know that I have updated my Switzerland directories for traveling and dining in style for 2025! There are the four of them. The first two are about where to go in my lovely home country. You find not only a grand tour of Switzerland but also an overview of premium destinations for the discerning traveler. Furthermore, I inform on where to stay and where to dine in style while traveling along the grand tour through this Alpine nation.

Here are the details:

1. Guide to visiting Switzerland
2. Premium destinations in Switzerland
3. Guide to luxury hotels in Switzerland, part one – core and west
4. Guide to luxury hotels in Switzerland, part two – Alps and east
5. Directory to fine dining in Switzerland, part one – core and west
6. Directory to fine dining in Switzerland, part two – Alps and east

I would like to highlight in particular my advice to foodies spots in Switzerland (5. and 6.).

It is based on dining directories just as the Michelin Guide and the Gault Millau Guide. And whenever they publish a new edition I amend my articles accordingly. But of course my personal opinions also play a role when creating them.

One more remark to end this short blogpost about my freshly updated Switzerland dine and travel in style guides. It is about how to use them. In case you do not want to read them from A to Z – which I would perfectly understand as they are quite long – , then proceed as follows. If you are only interested in a specific place, go to the contents section and click at “show”. Go to the spot of your choice and only read the correspondent paragraph!

Happy traveling and dining to all of you in 2025! And maybe let me know what you think about my directories.

The post My Switzerland travel & dine in style directories 2025 first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post My Switzerland travel & dine in style directories 2025 appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

I just wanted to let you know that I have updated my Switzerland directories for traveling and dining in style for 2024! There are the four of them. The first two are about where to go in my lovely home country. You find not only a grand tour of Switzerland but also an overview of premium destinations for the discerning traveler. Furthermore, I inform on where to stay and where to dine in style while traveling along the grand tour through this Alpine nation.

Here are the details:

1. Guide to visiting Switzerland
2. Premium destinations in Switzerland
3. Guide to luxury hotels in Switzerland, part one – core and west
4. Guide to luxury hotels in Switzerland, part two – Alps and east
5. Directory to fine dining in Switzerland, part one – core and west
6. Directory to fine dining in Switzerland, part two – Alps and east

I would like to highlight in particular my advice to foodies spots in Switzerland (5. and 6.).

It is based on dining directories just as the Michelin Guide and the Gault Millau Guide. And whenever they publish a new edition I amend my articles accordingly. But of course my personal opinions also play a role when creating them.

One more remark to end this short blogpost about my freshly updated Switzerland dine and travel in style guides. It is about how to use them. In case you do not want to read them from A to Z – which I would perfectly understand as they are quite long – , then proceed as follows. If you are only interested in a specific place, go to the contents section and click at “show”. Go to the spot of your choice and only read the correspondent paragraph!

Happy traveling and dining to all of you in 2024! And maybe let me know what you think about my directories.

The post My Switzerland travel & dine in style directories first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post My Switzerland travel & dine in style directories 2024 appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Hotel The Omnia Zermatt has a noteworthy backstory, but first of all it is a stunning luxury hotel offering a hospitality that is second to none. And although it has more than 15 years under its belt it looks dewy and fresh. Maybe you are prompted to assume that it is one of these typical chalets in the mountains reminding you of the story around Heidi in the Alps. But The Omnia is different. It is a contemporary interpretation of a classic mountain lodge with an interior design inspired by American modernism. Although it looks quite big from the outside, it is actually rather boutique. And its setting on a rock face above Zermatt is ravishing. You can reach the hotel via an elevator that is deep inside the mountain and starts right from the town center.

I hinted about its backstory already, which will make the start of my reporting. But although I personally find it fascinating, this should not hide the fact that Hotel The Omnia Zermatt is first and foremost an absolutely fabulous choice for spending a few days in Zermatt. This also in case you should be a fine dining lover. That is because its restaurant is great in this aspect too. You will find everything what makes this hotel worth going to for demanding travelers right after diving into its eventful past.

Hotel The Omina’s backstory

The Omnia’s pre-story

The Omnia was opened in 2006. And this after it had already been opened six years ago as a different hotel. It had the name “Into the Hotel” and was only in business for seven short weeks! The Into – as it was usually called – was a Gesamtkunstwerk, a total work of art, originated in a joint effort between an artist and a son of a millionaire. The protagonists were Heinz Julen, son of a mountain guide, ski instructor, artist, designer and hotel builder, and Alexander Schaerer, a member of the family owning USM, producing office furniture.

What went wrong with the predecessor hotel Into?

As mentioned, Into was not an ordinary hotel but quite an extraordinary undertaking. Heinz Julen brought in the idea – a habitable sculpture – and the land, Alexander Schaerer the money (from the family business). The hotel got its name from into the rock (its entrance was blasted into the mountain). And the artist realized here some really special things, for instance rooms featured a turntable on which there were the bed and the sofa. In such a manner, guests could view  Zermatt’s iconic mountain, the Matterhorn, anywhere they were. Or there was a retractable whirlpool or a submersible fountain.

After the opening of Into in 2000, it soon became clear that the hotel had construction defects. Opinions differed how bad they were. Heinz Julen thought that the issues could be solved with some adjustments. Family Schaerer considered the situation as much worse. Father and son Schaerer came to the conclusion that Into could not survive the way it was. They voted for a deconstruction of the hotel, which finally took place – after a long back and forth. In between, Alexander Schaerer sued Heinz Julen for 7.7 million SFR of renovation costs. Then it came to an out-of-court settlement in 2004: Heinz Julen gave up his share, Alexander waved his compensations claim.

The rebirth of the hotel in the form of The Omnia

Six years after the hotel opened first in the form of the Into The Omnia opened its doors again for guests. While it still was not the usual hotel, it was for sure not Switzerland’s craziest one any more. This was how journalists called the Into at the time. Most gadgets of the original hotel were removed, for example the high-gloss granite bathtubs.

You cannot know whether the deconstruction of the original hotel was the right thing to do. Maybe the Into could have been saved with a few amendments. Or maybe it really was totally defunct. Be it as it may, the Schaerer family created with The Omnia Zermatt a special hotel that stays in memory. What to expect, find in the following.

Location of Hotel The Omnia Zermatt

I already mentioned it, The Omnia’s location is remarkable, on top of a granite rock face overlooking Zermatt.

You enter the hotel

by passing through a tunnel

and traveling up via a glass elevator. Once inside, you are rising through masses of rocks until you reach the reception level, 45 m (148 ft) above town. While you feel here being far away from the hustle and bustle of Zermatt’s Bahnhofstrasse, you are actually only a lift ride away from it.

You reach the hotel in about seven minutes by foot from the train station – where you also find the bottom station of the Gornergrat railway in its immediate vicinity. Alternatively, you may ask the staff at Hotel  The Omnia Zermatt to get you at the station with an electric vehicle (Zermatt has always been car-free).

Ambiance/Staff at Hotel The Omnia Zermatt

The Omnia could not be further away from being one of these sometimes rather kitschy wooden chalet hotels found in the Alps. Instead, it is a contemporarily styled mountain lodge with smart and sophisticated furnishings. The interior design is the result of Ali Tayar’s work, a New York architect with Turkish roots. It is inspired by American modernism and has a warm feel as well as a hand crafted aesthetics. You find here lots of grey granite and white oak. Everything is about regional materials and furniture made by local craftsmen.

And the staff suits the hotel’s appearance. When my husband and I rode up the elevator on our arrival, we happened to be together with another arriving couple. Once the lift doors opened, two reception employees stood ready to welcome us separately. We were ushered to a seating area and were asked what kind of drink would suit us. Then they laid the glasses accompanied by a variety of snacks out on the table before us. We were even asked whether our drinks should be topped up. What a treat! Not long, and the general manager, Christian Eckert, appeared and warmly greeted us.

And so it proceeded in this positive fashion throughout our stay. Every staff member we were in touch with, had this gracious and obliging mindset. I also want to highlight the service at the restaurant, which was flawless. We especially appreciated dealing with Timo Muchenberger, the F&B manager, who unfortunately will leave at the end of this summer season.

Rooms/Pricing

On site you find 30 guest rooms, 12 of them are suites, and the do not have numbers but letters. As to the former ones, you can opt for either a Double (37 sqm) with view of Zermatt or the rock side, a Double Mountain Bath (37 sqm) facing the cliff, a Double Deluxe (50 sqm) with view of Zermatt or Matterhorn or a Queen (24 sqm) going to the rock side. When it comes to suites, there is the Corner Suite (68 sqm) facing Zermatt, the Village Suite (72 sqm) with the same view, the Matterhorn Suite (70 sqm), the Tower Suite (90 sqm) with Matterhorn view and the Roof Suite (110 sqm) with Matterhorn view too plus a sauna.

Room rates start at about 440 SFR/US$ per night including breakfast in the shoulder/low season. When lodging here, A nice feature awaits you in the rooms. And this is a special welcome in the form of a crystal carafe with a gold-colored Bourbon to help yourself at your preference. It is refilled daily, and – as my husband assured me – it is a fine one!

My husband and I chose to stay at a Corner Suite. Find some details in the lines to come.

Corner Suite: our choice of room at Hotel The Omnia Zermatt

I was overwhelmed with all the space at our disposal in the Corner Suite. There is a spacious living room coming with a large seating area, a large table, some USM furniture (the owner family “sends regards”) and a balcony facing a pathway leading up the mountain along a quiet neighborhood.

The bedroom is quite roomy too with two balconies, one with view of the before mentioned pathway, the other towards Zermatt. There is also a comfortable chaise lounge to enjoy the latter view.

And for one of these rare occasions, my husband and I had separate bathrooms. I opted for the one with the tub and a single basin,

my husband had to be content with the other, featuring a small shower and a single sink.

The one thing of the accommodation we were not that in favor was the fact that it was about on the same level as the pathway I already wrote about. Throughout the day, there were the one or other hikers passing, being able to catch a glimpse of the inside of our room. In the worst case, they would even have been able to intrude without difficulties. But I am quite sure that this is not very likely to happen. Anyway, ask about staying a story higher (I am not sure whether there are more than two of these rooms).

As to the room rate, it costed 700 SFR/US$ per night including breakfast in the summer peak. But be aware of the fact that rates in winter are higher. Expect to pay about 1,000 SFR/US$ for this room category in the high season.

Restaurant The Omnia

UPDATE: Leandro Sutter as new restaurant manager as from winter season 2023/24 & André Kneubühler as new chef as from summer season 2024

The restaurant is the place for breakfast and for dinner. For the latter, it is open every day. Monday and Tuesday are days when you can only book a table as hotel guest. I was very fond of the delectable breakfasts we got here. Weather permitting, you can have them also on the terrace.

Setting

As for dinner, we only happened to have one here here, yet it was fabulous! I very much liked the setting at The Omnia Restaurant. It is a large room but there are not that many tables in it. The space is divided into four different sections.

First, you find here the “regular” tables, long wooden ones with either six seats or twice two seats. Personally, I was not that in favor of the latter arrangement as you are quite close to another guest couple in such a case. Given the ample space in this room, I found that a bit suboptimal, but I am sure for most people it would be no issue. Anyway, second, there is a corner where there is an overlong, high table where dining feels a bit more casual. Third, they have added a seating area where you could either wait for you dinner companions or  have a pre dinner drink. And last there is a somewhat hidden round table in an alcove.

Food concept

When it comes to food, dining is a lavishing affair at Hotel The Omnia Zermatt. Chef Tony Rudolf has been on the helm here since October 2021 (before he was sous chef, and this since June 2017). The restaurant is Michelin listed and has 16 points at Gault Millau. The restaurant manager is the already mentioned Timo Muchenberger who does a great job in this position. With regard to food concept, they offer seasonal premium produce of alpine provenance, based on a vegetarian concept. Yet it is far from being strict in this regard as you can complement the dishes with fish or meat.

You can make your selection from à la carte menu or opt for the tasting menu (four courses, vegetarian 110 SFR/US$, with meat 135 SFR/US$). When going for à la carte, you have the following offer: five starters (19 to 26 SFR/US$), five mains (36 to 28 SFR/US$) and quite a number of complements (18 to 28 SFR/US$) to add to your choices. If you are not sure how to combine, the service team is happy to assist you. In terms of desserts, there are three options (25 SFR/US$) plus ice cream or sorbet (8 SFR/US$ per scoop) and cheese (17/28 SFR/US$). Quite original, this concept with vegetarian food plus fish or meat complements!

Alternatively, you can order The Omnia Classics. These are either The Omnia Wiener Schnitzel (58 SFR/US$) or The Omnia Raclette (one piece 13 SFR/US$ or “bottomless style” 53 SFR/US$).

How was it?

My husband and I decided to go for the Chef’s Choice four-course menu, and that was a great thing to do! We had the wine pairing (89 SFR/US$ per person) as well, which complimented the food just perfect.

We started with an amuse bouche made of joghurt and beetroot and continued with a mix between Vitello Tonnato and tomato mozzarella salad. Next was a saffron risotto enhanced with zander fish. The main course was lamb with a braised carrot plus buckwheat.

The meal finished with Felchlin Edelweiss 36% chocolate mousse accompanied by strawberry espuma, yoghurt and granola. The very end was a macaron with thyme.

I was delighted by the idea to combine vegetarian food with fish and meat. In such a way, the sides become to main players, which I found a real benefit. This because it feels like having the best of two worlds (veggie and fish/meat). And I have to admit that the chef knew very well what food items go well together. And the wine pairing, selected and presented by Tim Muchenberger, was exquisite!

Other facilities at Hotel The Omnia Zermatt

Lounge Bar & Sun Terrace

If you care for small bites and/or drinks, the Lounge Bar

and the Sun Terrace

are at your disposal. The former does this from 10 am to 11 pm, the latter from 11 am to 6 pm (whether permitting). Integrated in the Lounge Bar is also a library where you find among other things hundreds of art publications. And amidst books and magazines, you also encounter a large selection of whiskeys.

As to the terrace, you have a view of the Matterhorn

plus of the town from high above.

Spa

Hotel guests in search of wellness find here a combined indoor/outdoor pool

with a separate outdoor whirlpool. When sitting in the latter, you have not only a view of the Matterhorn but also of the town of Zermatt.

In addition, there is a rather small space with saunas as well as floral and herbal steam rooms. The wellness center also features a gym with Technogym equipment and two separate units for massage, yoga and pilates.

Overall Hotel The Omnia Zermatt & general Zermatt information

It has been quite a long time since I was so happy with a hotel in Switzerland on a first stay. This is due not only to its great premises – especially guest rooms and dining room in a contemporary version of a classic mountain lodge -, but also to the most perfect hospitality. The general manager, Christian Eckert, does a terrific job when it comes to dealing with guests. His credo is: welcoming guests is not a profession, it is a passion. And he really lives by it. In addition, he was able to bring its 50-odd staff members to do so in the same excellent manner. He even was awarded Hotelier of the Year 2023 by Hotellerie Suisse, the leading hotel industry organization.

In case you look for further information on Zermatt, I also made some other posts about it in the past, especially when it comes to skiing.

I have a recommendation for you if you care for a luxury ski-in/ski-out hotel in this alpine town.

Furthermore, I also put together a guide on where to eat in style on the slopes in Zermatt.

Date of stay: August 2023

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The post 5-star Hotel The Omnia in Zermatt, Switzerland first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post 5-star Hotel The Omnia in Zermatt, Switzerland appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Hotel Waldhaus in Sils Maria, in the beautiful Engadine in the Swiss Alps, is a truly unique place. There is no other property in Switzerland of this kind. It has been family owned since it was constructed 115 years ago. There is a spirit of continuity here that is second to none. The Waldhaus is not just another luxury hotel, but it has a soul of its own. It may be best described with a list of characteristics: it is unpretentious, understated, full of character, affine to culture, luxurious but not too much so, affordable, near to Saint Moritz yet so far away from it. There would be more, but I do not want to try your patience. I will do my best to bring Hotel Waldhaus closer to you in the next paragraphs.

I start with detailing my connection to this hotel and letting you know more about the family that stands behind it. If you should wonder about where I got all this data, they published a book on the occasion of the Waldhaus’ 111th birthday in 2019 (also available in English). After doing this, I will go into the hotel’s features.

My personal relation to Waldhaus Sils

While my husband and I always very much liked our stays at the Waldhaus Sils, we have not been here for 16 years! Our (too long) absence did not have anything to do with the hotel but it was due to other factors. Instead of going to the Upper Engadine, which we adore, we rather went to Davos, another resort town in the Swiss Alps. This because we had business friends who had bought a hotel and personal friends who had acquired a vacation apartment here. And both happened at about the same time. Yet, in the meantime the situation has changed somehow, and we are free again to go wherever we please!

And so we decided to return to Hotel Waldhaus Sils Maria to spend a few days for skiing and winter walking (my next post will describe two great winter walks). In the past, we had come here rather in summertime for walking/hiking.

Our first stay dates back to 2000. Afterwards, we returned six times more. And the last stay before our current one was in 2007. We always went as a family, with our son, when he was a child and a young teen. Our recent visit was actually the first where my husband and I went on our own. But we have already decided to come back with our son and his girlfriend when the occasion arises!

And how was our coming back? Walking through the Waldhaus’ entrance door was like we had never been away. But this does not mean that the time has stood still here. The hotel has moved on – there were some remodeling projects – yet without losing its original flair. In the meantime, a new generation – the fifth – has taken over yet the old one is still present. The same is true for quite a number of staff. Above all, that is about the Maître d’Hôtel (the restaurant manager), Walter Nana, who has been working here for 38 years! And we were warmly welcomed back!

Hotel Waldhaus Sils’ backstory

Generation I (about 1908 – 1918)

Waldhaus Sils was opened in 1908, and this after the relatively short construction time of two years. Josef Giger was the founder, who used to manage Hotel Hof Ragaz in Bad Ragaz in eastern Switzerland, and he managed it together with his wife Amalie (generation I). After long years in the upscale hospitality business, Josef Giger knew exactly what he wanted his hotel to be. It should be beautiful and grand yet at the same time “practical and solid”. What he did not have in mind, was some kind of palatial building.

The result is some kind of a fortress. While it majestically sits on a hill above the village of Sils Maria, surrounded by forest, it is no palace. However, it is far from being modest. It definitely wants to impress. From its style, you can best describe it as historicist. There is also no true front and back. As to the number of rooms, there are 140 of them today, about the same as in 1908.

Generation II (about 1918 – 1960)

After the death of Josef and Amalie Giger, one of her daughters, Helen, took over with her husband, Oskar Kienberger. Funnily enough, this is the son of one of Josef Giger’s peers – he used to manage Hotel Quellenhof in Bad Ragaz at the same time as he was in charge of the neighboring Hotel Hof Ragaz.

They went through no easy time, the global economic crisis hit the Waldhaus hard. And the second world war that followed was not any different. But shortly after the end of the war, there was more or less business as usual at the Waldhaus. As the zeitgeist demanded, all the hotel rooms became equipped with bathrooms. The rapid spread of the automobile made it also necessary to construct garage buildings.

Generation III (about 1960 – 1987)

Rolf, one of Helen and Oskar Kienberger’s sons, soon became the designated successor of the family business, and this together with his wife Rita. He was responsible for the reintroduction of the winter season at the Waldhaus. At the beginning, his father opposed – he had made some bad experiences in this respect – , but in the end this decision turned out to be the right one. The overnight stays increased significantly afterwards.

Under Rolf’s helm, an indoor swimming pool started its operation (1969/70). Also the dining-room was updated and enlarged (1978). Then the “Palais du Garage” was opened too (1982/83). It contained not only an underground car park but also tennis courts, indoor and outdoor. And the first kitchen renovation took place (1977).

Generation IV (about 1987 – 2010)

After the era Rolf Kienberger, a new name appeared, Felix Dietrich. Rolf was his godfather and soon discovered his suitability for a job in the hospitality field. And when this talented young man fell in love with Maria, one of Rolf and Rita’s daughters, all the better. After their wedding, they worked at the side of Rita and Rolf Kienberger until they took over completely in 1987. Two years afterwards, they were joined by Urs Kienberger, Maria’s brother, who had pursed a career as economist before.

And the success story of Waldhaus went on under the lead of this trio. They showed engagement in different areas. Among others, culture became more important (lectures, concerts, book presentations, excursions, theater performances). While pursuing such activities, the hotel directors always made sure that they complement the hotel’s everyday life. In no way, culture was meant to be in the foreground.

With the fourth generation on the helm, the kitchen was once again overhauled, along with some neighboring spaces (2008, costs of 10 million SFR/US$). This was also the point of time when a chef’s table was introduced. Furthermore, the hotel lounge was enlarged by 6 m (20 ft) into the forest (1991) and a second underground car park was built (1999).

Generation V (from 2010)

While Felix Dietrich stepped back in 2010 at the age of 60, Urs Kienberger had not been ready yet (two years younger). He wanted to stand by the next generation for some more time (2014). The new leading force as from 2010 consisted of Maria and Felix Dietrich’s two sons. Claudio (born 1977) is responsible for the operational and administrative management, Patrick (born 1980) for guest relations.

Under the lead of Urs Kienberger, the smokers were “relocated” from the bar into a newly constructed smoking room. This change made it necessary to move the à la carte restaurant Arvenstube towards east (2011/12, more than 2.5 million SFR/US$). The youngsters on their part tackled the major project of a spa, which was a heathen task. This because most of this new building is underneath the ground (2016/17, costs of a little less than 11 million SFR/US$).

Otherwise, Claudio and Patrick do their best to continue the work of their ancestors, and as my husband and I thought, very successfully. As to their appearance and personality, Claudio reminds us of his father. With regard to Patrick, he definitely has quite some genes from the Kienberger’s side.

Location of Hotel Waldhaus Sils Maria Engadine

I have already mentioned it, Hotel Waldhaus is located in Sils Maria. This is a small town on Lake Sils in the Upper Engadine, a marvel long high Alpine valley in eastern Switzerland. The accommodation towers high above Sils at the start of the Fex Valley, a beautiful side valley, which is a mostly car-free zone (if you like winter walking, one of the two walks in my next post heads here). The Waldhaus is amidst a larch forest, and you enjoy unobscured views of the surroundings from here.

The most desirable view is probably to the west towards Lake Sils and Maloja.

Yet also the one to the south (Fex Valley) is nice. I personally like to overlook Lake Silvaplana and Sils (east side).

The latter is also in the direction where Saint Moritz lies, from which you probably have already heard about. This glamorous resort town has the reputation of being one of those places (see my post) where the rich and famous like to reside. While it definitely is no beauty, you find here lots of renowned hotels – which I find overpriced in the winter season – , chic shops and restaurants. When staying at Hotel Waldhaus, you are close to Saint Moritz (about 10 km/6.2 mi away), yet this fashionable spot seems like a world apart from the tranquility in Sils.

Ambiance at Hotel Waldhaus Sils Maria Engadine

In case you are fond of hotels full of people who display their wealth and put on an ostentatious show of their possessions, then you are probably better off in one of the Saint Moritz properties. In contrast, if you are more into understated luxury, then you might be in the right place at the Waldhaus. It is not so that you find here not all the amenities of a five-star accommodation yet it is neither pompous nor glamorous.

Hotel Waldhaus was named “Historic Hotel of the Year” in 2005 by ICOMOS, the International Council on Monuments and Sites. And again in 2015, it got a special anniversary award “20 years of Historic Hotels of the Year”. And they know here how to preserve the old without being old-fashioned. Renewal projects are carried out when the time is ripe. Yet they are usually no fast starters. As a family business, it takes consideration to realize huge renovation plans.

I already let you know that culture is important at the Waldhaus. There are not only a number of activities in this respect – all with the intent of complementing the every day life at the hotel – , you find here also a quite a number of guests with an affinity for the fine arts. The hotel also seems to attract people that work in this scene. On our stays, we have encountered several “celebrities”. When visiting a short time ago, we happened to notice one of the most notable Swiss architects among the guests.

Staff at Hotel Waldhaus Sils Maria Engadine

Not only there are lots of returning guests at the Waldhaus (70% and more), also the staff shows great loyalty to this hotel. After 16 years of not being here, my husband and I still recognized some employees at the restaurant on our recent stay. This is true not only for Walter Nana, the restaurant manager, as mentioned above, but for others too. For example, Oscar Comalli, the sommelier, has been working here since 1992.

There is also longtime staff in the kitchen. The chef patissier, Renato Pellegrinelli, has been occupied at the Waldhaus for more than 30 years!

If you wonder about the number of employees, there are about 170 of them. They are responsible for about 240 guests at full occupancy. As to the staff’s attitude, all of them are hospitable and friendly. You get the feeling that their service mentality is genuine. Their friendliness does not come across as fake. And a personal touch is for sure at most times.

Rooms/Pricing

Earlier on, I already informed on the guest rooms’ views. From out of the 140 rooms, you can make your choice of a variety of categories. For the two of you – there is also a large selection for solo travelers – , you can decide on four options: 2a* Junior Suite, 2a Best, 2b Standard and 2c Small. In addition, there are three kind of suites available. In case you care for views towards south and west, there is an additional charge.

As to the seasons, you find here four different ones. PEAK is around Christmas and New Year as well as from about the second week of February through end of February. In the remaining winter times, you pay either the HIGH rates or minus 10% (shoulder season) or 20% (low season). In summer, there is no PEAK and only one HIGH season, and this from about the last week of July to mid-August. The rest is available with a discount of 10% or 20% as above.

The rates start at 485 SFR/US$ (two persons, 2c Small, minus 20% low season, 2022/2023). They include half board. In case you only want to have breakfast you pay 50 SFR/US$ less per person. And three styles of rooms are at your disposal: classic, modern and nostalgic. The latter rooms come with the original restored furnishings from 1908. I consider this pricing as reasonable, especially compared to the one in Saint Moritz, which is – I repeat myself – over the top, especially in wintertime.

2a* Junior-Suite: our choice of room at Hotel Waldhaus Sils Maria

As my husband and I prefer to have enough space, we went for the biggest double room, the 2a* Junior Suite. This category offers a surface of 40 to 50 sqm. There is a large bathroom with double sinks plus a tub and a separate shower.

And there is a comfortable seating area too. In our case, the room also featured a spacious separate toilet with a generous washbasin.

We had not asked for a preferred view towards south or west. So, we overlooked the east towards Lake Silvaplana, which is in fact my favorite one.

While we were in favor of our room – we opted for a modern one – , I was not especially fond of the carpet (“dirty” hue, which did not fit the color concept of the furnishings). And I would have preferred a sofa and an armchair instead of two armchairs. But those were little things. Overall, we were satisfied and felt at ease in our room.

Other facilities/Services at Hotel Waldhaus Sils

Waldhaus Sils has all the offerings you expect from a five-star property plus some more which you seldom find at other comparable houses. I am talking in this context about cultural activities in particular (see below). Another interesting fact about this hotel is that a full spa has been only available since the winter season 2016/17. Details follow in the respective section. Last but not least, there has been a new restaurant onsite since the winter season 2020/21, the GIGERS. More about it you find just afterwards.

Restaurants

There are four dining-spots available, from which three are possible to book also for outside guests (all but the Waldhaus Dining-Room). In case you care for smaller bites only, you can have them at the Bar and at this wonderful Great Lounge.

In addition, you find here also a terrace for warmer days. Executive Chef at the Waldhaus kitchen is Gero Porstein, who has been in charge in this function since 2018. Before, he was Executive Chef at the Carlton Hotel Saint Moritz (Restaurant Vittorio) and Hotel Eden Roc in Ascona (Restaurant Marina).

GIGERS

I start with the GIGERS as I have just mentioned it above. It is named after the founder of the Waldhaus, Josef Giger. You find it at the spot where the third tennis court used to be, across the street just adjoining the separate building (“Palais du Garage”). The nickname for it is “fondue restaurant”. Yet of course you get here more than that, yet basically expect comfort food here. GIGERS is housed in a modern building, a wooden quadrangle, at the edge of the larch forest. As I have not eaten here, I cannot comment how it is.

Arvenstube

The second restaurant that I do not now from personal experience is the Arvenstube (Stübli made of Swiss pine wood). It is about the à la carte dining-spot where they serve modern Swiss cuisine, based on traditional recipes, with local produce. If you wonder why I have not yet dined here nor at GIGERS, the answer can be found in the next restaurant that I am going into.

Waldhaus Dining-Room

This is the Waldhaus Dining-Room, precisely the dining-rooms.

Here you have dinner in case you are on half board, which most of the guests staying at the Waldhaus are. It is always a festive and at the same time a relaxed affair, taking in the meals at these elegant, high-ceiling dining-rooms. For my husband and me it is a much loved “ritual” which we do not want to miss, unless it is for the Chef’s Table (see below). On offer here  are three menus, which change daily, and from which you can order four to five courses. The food is sophisticated yet without chichi, made of high-quality produce, locally sourced whenever possible.

Chef’s Table

A fourth option is the mentioned Chef’s Table. It is available usually on Mondays or on request. And it is really worth booking if you are a wine lover and interested in witnessing the hustle and bustle of a large hotel cuisine.

The premises are quite a sight too: huge, high-ceilings and high windows.

And you are very close to all the happenings in here when seated at the long table by the windows. Before, you have an aperitif in the well-stocked wine cellar,

where you are part of choosing the today’s wines. And they are not stingy in this respect!

This experience (five courses including all drinks), which I strongly recommend, costs 265 SFR/US$ for non-Waldhaus guests and 195 SFR/US$ for Waldhaus guests (145 SFR/US$ if you are on half board).

Spa

I have already written a few word about the new spa, significantly expanded a few years ago. It now consists of 1,500 sqm of wellbeing, between water and the surrounding larch forest. The architect team of Miller & Maranta created a modern building that seamlessly mergers with the surroundings. And the existing indoor pool was cleverly included into the construction. There is also a fitness room, with fitness equipment by Technogym. The spa is under the management of a family member, Carla Lehner-Dietrich, from the fifth generation.

On the premises, you find a Finnish and a bio sauna along with steam baths, relaxation rooms, plunge and Kneipp pools as well as Swiss pine and larch relaxation pools. I am not much of a spa goer, but I really enjoyed the later two, which are beneficial after a long skiing or hiking day. And I found that they were appropriate from their size too.

Culture/Events

I already let you know about the hotel’s affinity to culture. For every guest to see, there is the house orchestra. It is a resident trio who plays salon music. And this in the great lounge during tea time and in the evening at the bar. While I find the former a good thing, I am not a particular fan of the latter. At a late hour, they often tend to play light music from days long gone by, which I personally find a bit out of place. But of course, this is a matter of taste.

Furthermore, the Waldhaus hosts and organizes numerous cultural events. Readings and concerts regularly take place here. A highlight is “Resonanzen” (“resonances”), an international cultural festival in September. Here you enjoy first-rate chamber music, readings and lectures.

Overall Hotel Waldhaus Sils Engadine

If you want to spend a few days in the splendid Upper Engadine in the eastern Swiss Alps and care for subdued and laid-back luxury, there is in my opinion no better option in the Saint Moritz area than Hotel Waldhaus Sils. You are close to the  glamorous vacation resort of Saint Moritz but far enough from its hustle and bustle. Here in beautiful natural surroundings above the village of Sils Maria you are more in for tranquility and low-keyness. While the Waldhaus is absolutely suitable for the luxury-minded traveler, it does not feel flashy. In addition, the hotel is relatively affordable and its clientele is more on the distinguished side. Plus, this lodging has been family owned and managed since 1908. And although the Waldhaus is a grand old dame, all the necessary renewals have been done!

What is next?

As we last visited Hotel Waldhaus Sils Engadine in wintertime, my husband and did activities like skiing and winter walking/hiking. And we did two truly beautiful walks/hikes that started right from this hotel. My next post will be about those. Come back and have a look if you are into this kind of activity!  I must claim that these two walks/hikes are the best I have ever done in this respect!

Last stay: February 2023

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I just wanted to let you know that I have updated my Switzerland directories for traveling and dining in style for 2023! There are the four of them. The first two are about where to go in my lovely home country. You find not only a grand tour of Switzerland but also an overview of premium destinations for the discerning traveler. Furthermore, I inform on where to stay and where to dine in style while traveling along the grand tour through this Alpine nation.

Here are the details:

1. Guide to visiting Switzerland
2. Premium destinations in Switzerland
3. Guide to luxury hotels in Switzerland, part one – core and west
4. Guide to luxury hotels in Switzerland, part two – Alps and east
5. Directory to fine dining in Switzerland, part one – core and west
6. Directory to fine dining in Switzerland, part two – Alps and east

I would like to highlight in particular my advice to foodies spots in Switzerland (5. and 6.).

It is based on dining directories just as the Michelin Guide and the Gault Millau Guide. And whenever they publish a new edition I amend my articles accordingly. But of course my personal opinions also play a role when creating them.

One more remark to end this short blogpost about my freshly updated Switzerland dine and travel in style guides. It is about how to use them. In case you do not want to read them from A to Z – which I would perfectly understand as they are quite long – , then proceed as follows. If you are only interested in a specific place, go to the contents section and click at “show”. Go to the spot of your choice and only read the correspondent paragraph!

Happy traveling and dining to all of you in 2023! And maybe let me know what you think about my directories.

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UPDATE: new management as from fall 2022 (boutique collection by Andreas Caminada, 2-star Michelin chef Silvio Germann)

Only recently I came across a gourmet retreat that I had not yet heard of. This is about Mammertsberg, a Michelin starred restaurant complete with a few stylish rooms, near Saint Gallen in Switzerland’s northeast. On the way home from the “Swiss south”, my husband and I were looking for a place to stay and dine in style for one night. When we found a vacancy at this luxury boutique hotel, we seized the chance and booked a culinary indulgence offer. And we came to the conclusion that this stay at the gourmet Hotel Mammertsberg was the perfect way to end our early summer vacations!

About the Lake Constance area

If you are interested in some (brief) details what awaits you in the Lake Constance area in terms of region and things to do, have a look at my overview post about our latest vacation.

As to places where to go here for gourmet experiences, please refer to my list about restaurants to choose when traveling Switzerland (Fine dining directory Switzerland, part two, canton of Saint Gallen and canton of Appenzell). When writing it at the time, I did not realize that there are also recommended nearby dining-spots in the canton of Thurgau. So I missed the fabulous gourmet Hotel Mammertsberg. For sure, I will include it on this list’s next revision!

Now to what to expect when staying and dining at this foodie hideaway. First, I will go into lodging.

Staying at the gourmet Hotel Mammertsberg

Location

The gourmet Hotel Mammertsberg is idyllically located in the suburban community of Freidorf/Roggwil, 7 km/4.4 mi from Saint Gallen. The latter is the one and only city in the northeast of Switzerland. From here you can reach the luxury boutique hotel with gourmet restaurant in 11 minutes by train (the train station Roggwil-Berg is just across the street from the accommodation). By car you need a bit more than ten minutes.

From the hotel, you have splendid views of Lake Constance as well of the Appenzell and the Austrian Alps. And you are in the middle of beautiful nature with lots of apple trees and farmland.

History/Facilities

The historic part of gourmet Hotel Mammertsberg, the timber-framed building, is more than 100 years old. It used to be a country inn ever since it was built and this until 2006. From then on, it had been empty. And this until 2010, when Juerg Maurer, an investor living in the immediate neighborhood, bought it.

He asked Tilla Theus, a specialized architect for historical hotel renovations, to reconstruct it as boutique hotel and gourmet restaurant. She returned the house to its original form using old photos and postcards. The architect added a new building, too, the so-called Monolith. The two parts are connected by a passageway. Here you find the kitchen, in the shade of bamboo canes. One floor below, there is an event room.

While guest rooms and restaurant (35 – 60 seats) are in the historic part, the new modern building houses additional room for 35 more seats. It is a cut stone construction, glazed on two sides.

There also is a wonderful terrace and a panoramic garden where you can enjoy the beautiful vista. The view ranges from Lake Constance to Friedrichshafen (Germany) and Voralberg (Austria).

Furthermore, there is a state-of-the-art wine cellar, the Lounge

– which you reach by an impressive staircase from the restaurant – ,

and the Esprit-Lounge with a walk-in humidor.

6 guest rooms to stay in style

As mentioned, there are six guest rooms to choose from. You find here two suites (40 sqm, as from 450 SFR/US$), one junior suite (?) and two double rooms (23 to 24 sqm, 360 SFR/US$). As to the vista, I recommend going for a lake view accommodation (Bodensee). The second-best choice in my opinion are the rooms with partial lake view (Saentis). The least favorite pick in terms of vista are the ones toward the train station (Haselwald).

When we had made our booking, there was only one room left, the Suite Haselwald (40 sqm).

It consists of two rooms and a spacious bathroom, the latter with a window where you can catch a glimpse of the lake.

Otherwise, the suite faces the train station, which is not too busy yet party goers coming home in the early morning might be a pain (as we found out). The accommodation is well appointed in a modern style, my husband and I were fond of it.

Hosts/Ambiance

The hosts here are Luisa and August Minikus. They are born in the area, but both are widely traveled. She, trained in hotel management, used to be a flight attendant with the former Swissair. He, a chef, soon set off to the Philippines and Australia to perfect his cooking skills.

Before coming here, they run a restaurant in nearby Arbon. Luisa Minikus is responsible for the service and she is a sommeliere, too. And August Minikus is still a chef, and since 2015, the restaurant has been awarded a Michelin star.

The gourmet Hotel Mammertsberg is a chic place, that is for sure. Yet the ambiance is pleasant. My husband and I agreed that we have rarely been at a hotel with such a feel-good vibe. Everyone we met was amiable, accommodative and helpful. And it seemed to come from the heart. We appreciated the warm welcome from Vanessa Schudel, the management assistant, and the excellent service at dinner, overseen by Simon Wyss. Also Luisa and August Minikus appeared to be the perfect hosts!

Dining at Mammertsberg, a Michelin starred establishment

Dinner at the gourmet Hotel Mammertsberg is a big deal. When I first caught sight of the dining room, called Escale, I was intrigued by its beauty. Not only it is stunningly restored to its original glory, but there also are modern elements that complemented it perfectly. First of all, I think of the elegant spiral staircase that leads to the Lounge. It is covered in hammered aluminium, a real eye-catcher. And you can enjoy the lake view from all tables, which are placed in the room with generous spacing to the next ones.

When the weather permits it, you can have your meal on the beautiful terrace, with this stunning Lake Constance vista!

The weather was not kind enough to us on our evening, so we dined indoors. However, we could have breakfast – which was fabulous – in the outdoor area.

As to the food, we had booked the Mammertsberg’s special indulgence offer. This included the costs for the room, breakfast, fruits and sweets in the room, five-course gourmet menu, pre-dinner drink, wine pairing, mineral water and coffee. And that amounted to 940 SFR/US$ per room and night, which we found reasonably priced.

The cuisine is classic French with a healthy dose of modernity. The restaurant has one Michelin star and 17 points Gault Millau. As to the individual courses, you will find the details below. In this context I have to admit that I operated my camera incorrectly, so that a large part of the food pictures were deleted. Sorry, I can only provide those from the cheese and the dessert. In case you want to see more dinner pictures, have a look at the post from a fellow blogger couple (of another meal).

6-course indulgence menu at gourmet Hotel Mammertsberg (180 SFR/US$)

Now to our dinner, which was outstanding! And the wine pairing was great, too. Five course were included in the special indulgence offer, my husband and I decided to have all the courses, so we had to pay extra for one course.

Carabineros (prawns) accompanied by calamansi, mango, broccoli and sweet potatoes made the beginning. Next was mackerel in unison with cucumber, radish, wasabi and apple. A pasta course followed, pappardelle (wide noodles) paired with apricot, pines, artichokes and chanterelles. The main course was prime entrecôte with mustard, pearl onions, champignons and tarte flambée.

Before dessert, a well-stocked cheese cart was wheeled to our table and we could make our choice. They served it with a regional specialty, Schlorzifladen, a tarte with dried pear paste.

For dessert we got regional strawberries (from the canton of Thurgau, the best ones in Switzerland) and they came in combination with vanilla, almonds, elder and meringues.

Right after serving the petit fours,

the chef went from table to table and briefly chatted with the diners, a nice touch!

Overall

If you look for a boutique hotel for a short luxury stay with Michelin dining near Saint Gallen in Switzerland’s northeast, then you cannot go wrong with the gourmet Hotel Mammertsberg. In case you are a lover of beautiful buildings too, all the better, because it is an architectural marvel!

And the lake view here is grandiose, the same is true for the hospitality. The only downer here was the location just by the train station where there were noisy party goers returning late in the night. But of course you cannot blame the hotel for that. My advice here, opt for room with view of Lake Constance!

Not so good news has just reached me, the Minikus couple will end their lease of Mammertsberg at the end of April 2022. As  it seems, for reasons of age. So plan a stay and dinner here while you still can!

Date of stay: July 2021

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The news about The Chedi Andermatt Hotel coming to a fairly untouched village in the Swiss Alps was as a total surprise! Without exaggeration, almost everyone familiar with the business was astonished to hear that Andermatt should get an ultra-luxury hotel. But never mind, this announcement of Samih Sawiris, the investor, was good news! Eight years afterwards, The Chedi opened its doors in late 2013. And what you can see, is impressive! It is neither an Alpine chalet building nor a modern construction. Instead Alpine chic goes hand in hand with Asian influences.

While I followed the developments around The Chedi Andermatt, it took my husband and me another eight years until staying here. And that is not without reason! In winter, we considered Andermatt’s skiing infrastructure as insufficient. In summer, we found that there are more appealing places to go in view of the rather harsh climate here. And most important, the hotel’s pricing is quite steep.

In the meantime, many things changed. First, the ski resort developed into a first-rate one. Second, it became a year-round destination thank to its golf-course, which seems to be state-of-the-art – I am not a golfer. And third, we came upon a special two-day offer including a dinner with wines for the summer season. So, we gave it a try.

About Sawiris’ one billion investment in Andermatt

After long being a staging post at Switzerland’s most important north-south route, Andermatt fell into a fairy tale sleep. And this with the opening of the Gotthard Road Tunnel in 1980. The Alpine village has found itself bypassed ever since. Two decades later, rescue came into the form of Samih Sawiris, an Egyptian businessman and billionaire. He promised to turn the sleepy ski village into an ultra-luxury ski destination. And he kept his word. At least, he laid the foundation for success.

Andermatt, blessed with lots of austere mountain appeal, is back on the touristic map. It started with the 300 million SFR/US$ construction of The Chedi Hotel and Residences. In late 2013, the hotel part with 123 rooms opened. Other buildings, convention facilities, a swimming hall and a 18-hole golf course followed. Once the project is finished, there shall be 6 hotels, 490 apartments in 42 buildings, about 20 chalets and a concert hall. In the meantime, the four-star Radisson Blue Hotel Reussen has opened its doors, too (end of 2018, 244 rooms).

Furthermore, the ski region was further developed. The Andermatt and the neighboring Sedrun ski area merged and became the SkiArena Andermatt-Sedrun. Overall, Andermatt’s touristic basic infrastructure is now available. Now, it is important to fill them with life, meaning with lots of paying customers!

I have been curious about the Sawiris’ signature project, the ultra-luxury The Chedi Hotel, ever since it has opened in 2013. Various reasons have hindered my husband and me from staying here so far, but the time has now come! And this on our early summer vacations (see overview article), as stopover on our way to the Ticino, so to say. Here we spent the bigger part of our trip at the fabulous Castello del Sole in Ascona (my blogpost).

Staying at The Chedi Andermatt, an ultra-luxury Alpine resort

Location

Andermatt is an Alpine village at the foot of the Gotthard Pass in the Swiss canton of Uri. You can reach it from Zurich in about one and a quarter of an hour by car. By train you need a bit more than two hours. The climate here is rather harsh, with lots of snow in winter and rain at other times of the year.

Before Sawiris’ mega development, Andermatt was a rather sleepy village with an outdated skiing infrastructure. I explained before how this changed the place. However, Andermatt (1,600 inhabitants) still has an authentic feel, with quite a nice historic center. By no means, it has become a glamorous ski resort just as Saint Moritz or Gstaad. The surroundings exude an austere mountain appeal, resulting from those bare slopes.

The Chedi Andermatt is nestled adjacent the center of the village, right by the train station – where the Glacier Express stops too. And it is not far from the Guetsch-Express mountain railway. While it is not exactly ski-in, ski-out here, it comes close to that.

Facilities/Memberships

The offer here is impressive, from a state-of-the art spa (spread over 2,400 sqm) with several indoor

and outdoor pools,

four restaurants (see more about food in the separate section) as well as four more places for drinks and small bites (The Bar

and The Living Room,

The Lobby, The Courtyard – weather permitting –

as well as The Pool – a pool bar). In addition, there is The Wine Library – an event location –

and The Cigar Library – for cigar lovers.

And best of all, everything you encounter here is utterly beautiful, made from the best materials. If you catch sight of the exteriors the first time, it is hard to pin down the architecture style. It has something of an Alpine building yet it is not your typical chalet. For me, the building’s rather simple form is most reminiscent of the typical barns you see here in the area. Quite special is the slatted wooden double facade that “hides” the balconies.

There are three main wings that are centered around a splendide courtyard, a pond in summer, an ice rink in winter.

As to memberships,  The Chedi Andermatt is part of the GHM (General Hotel Management Ltd.) luxury hotel group. So far, it mainly consists of Chedi Hotels in the Asian region. The Chedi also belongs to the renown hotel association of The Leading Hotels of the World. Furthermore, it is a member of Swiss Deluxe Hotels.

Ambiance

As to the interiors, the layout is incredibly generous but without making the impression of being too vast. Everything has been thoroughly thought out. The reception desk is made of a huge granite block that seamlessly becomes a bar where you could have a drink. At its very end, you are already in the the lobby bar. And adjacent to it, you can have a look at the indoor pool, only separated from the lobby by a glass wall.

And the decor is breathtakingly attractive, local stone, wood and leather in dark tones! While the hotel has an Alpine vibe, it definitely is Asian influenced, too. At almost every corner, you find a fireplace, there are more than 200 totally!

Service

Service is as excellent as you would expect at a hotel of this caliber. Maybe it was not especially personal, but that is difficult to reach in a hotel with 123 rooms. So everything was as it should be.

There is one thing that I found somewhat unusual in this context. At the hotel entrance, there was a small note asking the guests not to take photos from public spaces. I only discovered it when I had already done all my pictures. So it was too late for me anyway. And they did not give any reason for this request. I do understand that you should not post any photos where you can recognize guests. But otherwise, I cannot see the point.

Guest rooms

There are 123 rooms in five categories (Deluxe Rooms, Grand Deluxe Rooms, Junior Deluxe Suites, Deluxe Suites, Grand Deluxe Suites) plus three extra large suites. The standard room – which is far from being basic – is big (52 to 55 sqm) and the Grand Deluxe Suite is huge (110 sqm). You see, the Chedi Andermatt plays in another league! Even the least expensive room – which is far from being inexpensive – is a “temple of luxury”.

In terms of rates, prices vary much, depending on the season, the weekday and the demand. The absolute high season is end of December/beginning of January, another peak is in February/beginning of March. In summer, prices are more modest. The lowest rate I found was in November, midweek (425 SFR/US$). This is a point of time where neither the golf course nor the ski lifts are in use. In contrast, in the last December week you have to shell out 1,300 SFR/US$ for the standard room.

My husband and I were in Andermatt end of June, when the mountain railways did not run yet. And we stayed over the weekend. We had opted for a special offer, a Gault Millau Dine & Style Package. This included two nights and one four-course menu with wine pairing at The Restaurant plus a 50 SFR spa credit per person and stay. We had not chosen the standard room but one category higher, the Grand Deluxe Room. Find the room details in the following.

Grand Deluxe Room at The Chedi Andermatt

Description

The Grand Deluxe Room is exactly the same as the standard room, the Deluxe Room. The only difference is its location. While the Deluxe Room is on lower floors, the Grand Deluxe Room is on upper floors. And this is quite an advantage, in my opinion. Because I caught sight of many rooms on lower floors with not very attractive views. In terms of vista, we were very lucky! Our room was in the higher middle wing with stunning views of the pond at our feet and the Urseren valley in the distance!

And I have to say that there are lots of vistas at The Chedi that I consider as not so good, be in the direction of the street or the station.

Every room at The Chedi comes with a glass-fronted fireplace that can be watched either from the inside or from the balcony.

The latter, by the way, offers no privacy at all, which is a pity. Otherwise, the room is truly gorgeous.

From the wooden and stone floors and walls, the sofa running the entire length of one wall complete with a giant Alpine photo mural, the fabulous bathroom with a freestanding bathtub and huge rain showers to the low Japanese-style table in the room’s center. What a beauty of a room! And only with the best materials imaginable!

With regard to the pricing, it did not come inexpensive, which should not be surprising. At the time of booking, the special offer that included dining & wining on one night cost just as much as the best available rate with breakfast (1,217 SFR/US$ per day and room). This is super-pricey, and I am not completely sure whether this rate is justified for what you get. Beauty is not everything!

What else you need to know about the room

Despite my enthusiasm about the room, I have to make a negative point. Also the bed is of the highest quality! They have here Haestens Beds, which are only made of the finest natural materials and are produced by hand. For sure, they must be incredibly expensive! Unfortunately, you do not have a choice at The Chedi as to the bedding. There is only a king size option, so no twin beds available. And although the bed was comfortable, I found it way too bouncy. The motion transfer from one side of the bed to the other was very high. Every time either my husband or I shifted, the other woke up. In case you should be a light sleeper, keep that in mind!

One more thing, if you care for a regular table or even a desk, then you are wrong here. My verdict here, this is form over substance. Rooms are so beautiful yet not necessarily very practical!

Dining at The Chedi Andermatt, an ultra-luxury Alpine resort

I already let you know that that are four restaurants belonging to the Chedi. These are the following ones: the signature place, The Japanese Restaurant with one Michelin star and 16 points Gault Millau; The Restaurant with 14 points Gault Millau, The Chalet (wintertime) and The Japanese by The Chedi Andermatt (the mountain restaurant on Mount Guetsch) with one Michelin star and 14 points Gault Millau.

My husband and I went to the former two. I start with The Restaurant where we had a four-course menu plus wine pairing included in our arrangement.

The Restaurant (14 points Gault Millau) 

This is the main restaurant where they also serve breakfast. The dining room is huge with four show kitchens where you can watch the chefs at work.

The highlight here is the phenomenal Cheese Tower where you can help yourself in the morning and the server arranges a cheese dish for you in the evening.

The place has a modern feel, and everything here is high-end.

While the atmosphere in here is a bit impersonal and the noise level rather on the high side, we felt comfortable. This was also due to the staff who is friendly, informative and efficient.

The food was tasty, a mix of western and Asian cuisine. We liked what we got, compliments to the chef, Armin Egli! We began with an Italian classic, buratina with raw ham, honey tomato, and focaccia.

That was continued with a selection of dim sum.

The main course was surf & turf (beef tenderloin and lobster tail) with black garlic sauce, fennel, radish, cauliflower and saffron potato stones.

And the sweet end point was a pure chocolate variation with sorbet, mousse and brittle.

Also the wine pairing was to our liking!

One remark to the breakfast. While I liked the offerings – especially the cheese from this awesome Cheese Tower – , I was a bit astonished to see that you have to pay extra for dishes just as eggs Benedict or French toast. I think that these must be included in the room rate given the elevated price level at The Chedi.

Now to our dining experience at The Japanese Restaurant.

The Japanese Restaurant (1 star Michelin, 16 points Gault Millau)

In contrast to The Restaurant, The Japanese Restaurant is kept small and exclusive with about 45 seats. You can sit either at the sushi bar or at tables.

On offer here are two menus, a modern Kaiseki-Kappo and an a la carte one. The latter includes Nigiri-sushi, Uramaki-sushi and sashimi. You can also opt for dishes from the Kaiseki-Kappo menu as a la carte choices, either as an appetizer or a main course. For meat lovers you find Wagyu and Kobe (as main dishes) on the menu, too.

The kitchen is helmed not by a Japanese, but the Swiss born Dietmar Saywere. Since he was three years old, he had been living abroad. He returned 2013 and became executive chef at the Widder Hotel in Zurich before he was hired by The Chedi in 2015.

If you should wonder about the difference between Kaiseki and Kaiseki-Kappo, the latter is less formal and elaborate. The Kaiseki-Kappo menu at The Japanese Restaurant comprises 20 dishes to choose from. You can select either 4, 5 or six 6 courses (170, 200 or 230 SFR/US$). While 17 of them change on a regular basis, apparently three of them stay (forever) as they are the owner’s favorites (sashimi hamachi; sea scallop carpaccio with shiso, Kaviari Kristal caviar and beurre blanc; black cod with yuzu-miso sauce).

As to Dietmar Saywere’s style of cooking Japanese, find details in the next chapter, where I describe our five-course dinner. It is not really authentic but an Europeanized version of it, that much can be said.

Five-course modern Kaiseki-Kappo menu

We started both with some sort of a tuna variation (Balfego “Harumaki style”, Akami and Toro tuna with Sumiso sauce),

followed by sea scallop carpaccio with shiso, Kaviari Kristal caviar and beurre blanc.

Then my husband had udon noodles with Swiss shrimp and black truffle, Odamaki Mushi style (savory custard cup). I chose the black cod with white asparagus, Gottard-Shiitake and yuzo-miso sauce.

For mains, he decided to have the pork belly “Kakiage” (some kind of tempura style) in unison with smoked eel, shiso, sweetcorn and spicy ponzu. I for myself wanted to try the Teppanyaki duck breast paired with a gyoza (dumpling), hispi cabbage and a teriyaki-duckliver sauce.

In terms of dessert, my husband ordered a Japanese cheesecake with yuzu-sake jelly, coconut, raspberries and hibiscus. I opted for the green tea creme brûlée with Adzuki beans and green tea ice cream.

And how did we like it? If you care for truly authentic Japanese Kaiseki cuisine, then you probably will not be overly enthusiastic about it. But in case you are fond of well-made, creative Japanese food European inspired, then you are in the right spot here. I very much liked the chef’s modern interpretations of the Japanese cuisine. The innovative dishes are based on the Japanese aesthetics but incorporate classic French influences as well.

Quite in contrast to Japan, the dishes were rather filling. So, we struggled to finish our desserts, which serving sizes were quite generous. After four savory courses, one sweet one to share between us would definitely have been enough.

Overall

There was no expense spared in the construction of The Chedi Andermatt. Everywhere your eye goes, it finds beauty, be it in the state-of-the-art guest rooms or the grandiose public spaces. Even the least expensive accommodation – which is anything but inexpensive – has an exceptional standard. And the facilities are first-rate too, from the spectacular spa to the excellent dining-venues. The Chedi has really set a new benchmark of hotel luxury in Switzerland!

Having said that, there are downsides, too. I have already mentioned the high price level. While I understand that ultra-luxury lodging is going to cost you, there are apparent inconsistencies. If you pay a small fortune for a room, you do not only want it luxuriously appointed but also coming with a great view. And the choice here is not yours as each unit costs the same, independent from the vista. Best views in my opinion are the ones of the courtyard pond on upper levels. Not so good ones are those of the Gotthardstrasse and the Bahnhofstrasse.

Another drawback is the fact that there is no selection in terms of bedding. All the rooms feature king beds of the renown high-end Haestens brand. While they might be suitable for most people, they are way too bouncy for light sleepers. And you cannot evade them as there are no twin beds available.

And finally, there is no half board option available, which might come handy for longer stays. This is quite common in Switzerland, especially at hotels in ski resorts, which Andermatt definitely is. In the absence of this, costs for food and drink (wine prices are extremely high) will pile up quickly.

Date of stay: June 2021

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If I had to make a list of my favorite luxury hotels in Switzerland, then Castello del Sole Ascona in the canton of Ticino would rank in the top positions! There is no other lodging in my home country offering so much seclusion and room to breathe! It is wonderfully set on a beautiful piece of land directly on Lake Maggiore. Also the facilities are immaculate complete with a Michelin starred restaurant. And the staff knows its stuff, too. No wonder, my husband and I chose this fabulous place for our early summer vacation! And imagine it has just been named Hotel of the Year 2022 by Gault Millau Switzerland!

Before coming to the Castello del Sole Ascona itself, a few remarks to the Ticino, where to go for high-end accommodation here and some more details about two stops we did on the way to the Ticino.

Ticino & two overnight stops on the way

When living in Switzerland’s northwest, there is actually no need to do an overnight stop on your way to the “Swiss south”. My home country is small and you can reach every other spot in a few hours’ drive. Notwithstanding that, we felt like spicing it up a bit. After all, we had already been to the Ticino in last November and September – thanks to Corona, so “Swisscations” only!

Hence, we used the opportunity to try out two hotels that were new to us. On the one hand, we spent two nights at the ultra-luxury The Chedi Hotel Andermatt (my post) in the Alps just by the Gotthard Pass.

On the other hand, we made a detour to the northeastern part of Switzerland to stay one night at a gourmet retreat, the stylish boutique hotel Mammertsberg, (my post), close to Saint Gallen.

Ticino, Italianità made in Switzerland

My husband and I like going to the Ticino, as many other Swiss Germans and Germans. It is the place in my home country where you feel like you are in the Mediterranean.

Here you have the choice between Lugano

or Locarno

resp. Ascona

to spend some time in the subtropical landscape. While Lugano on Lake Lugano is the largest town in this Swiss canton featuring a nice old town and numerous mountains with splendid viewpoints, Locarno is smaller (and more touristy). The same is true for Ascona, a neighboring village. And both are located on Lake Maggiore. Ascona is a truly idyllic spot, boasting an enchanting historic core and a picturesque lakeside piazza.

Luxury hotels in Ticino

When deciding not to leave Switzerland for summer vacations, the Ticino usually is top of the list for my husband and me. So, we have stayed at many of the luxury hotels in the area. And of course I have written several blogposts about this subject, too. For an overview of accommodations here, have a look at “A guide to luxury hotels in Switzerland, part two“. If you look for more specific information about Lugano’s high end lodging, please refer to “Where to stay & dine in style in Lugano, Switzerland“. In case you want to go to Ascona, check out “Hotel Eden Roc, one of three top luxury hotels in Ascona, Switzerland“.

While the latter focuses on Hotel Eden Roc Ascona – where we were last year – ,

I will now go into Hotel Castello del Sole Ascona. This is the accommodation in the Ticino where we have stayed most. I have counted, we have been here for the seventh time! However, our last visit here was in 2014. So, I was excited to see what has changed since then.

Staying in style at Hotel Castello Del Sole Ascona 

Location

As pointed out already, the setting is spectacular. The site includes 140 hectares! And this in the small country of Switzerland where many things are close together! So, if you like lots of personal space and privacy, as I do, this is the place to go. The 11-hectare-park with artfully scattered lounge chairs, hammocks and quiet corners is one of the biggest attractions at the sun castle (the translation of Castello del Sole).

And you are directly by Lake Maggiore. There is a beautiful private beach with – you know by now – lots of room to breathe.

The hotel is only one part of the whole property. In addition, there is a farm – Terreni alla Maggia – where they produce wine and rice, amongst other things.

And there is a bird sanctuary as well, given the location right by the fertile Maggia river delta. To reach Ascona’s center you can use either the hotel shuttle, borrow one of the many hotel’s own bicycles or go by foot. It is a lovely forty-minute walk along the lakeshores.

History/Memberships

The property’s history goes back to 1540, when it was built as a traditional Lombardian manor house. Emil Georg Buehrle bought it in 1942 and nowadays it is owned by the Anda and Franz-Buehrle families. There have been severals expanses of buildings since the first one’s construction.

Over recent years, more than 30 million SFR/US$ has been spent on modernizations. And there seems to be a “Castello del Sole 2025” innovation plan in order to safeguard the site’s unique qualities. We will see what the future brings in this respect!

As the membership to hotel groups is concerned, the Castello del Sole Ascona is part of The Living Circle. It stands for four hotels, two farms and two other restaurants (not at a hotel). And the farms’ produce goes to the associated houses. Following hotels belong to this hotel group, all of them are luxury ones. Apart from the Castello del Sole Ascona there are three hotels in Zurich, Hotel Alex Lake, Hotel Widder and Hotel Storchen. If you want to know more about them, check out my blogpost about staying at the Alex Lake

and dining at the Storchen.

Furthermore, the Castello del Sole Ascona also is part of the renown Relais & Châteaux hotel group.

Ambiance/Staff

The Castello del Sole Ascona is one of the largest hotel estates in the Ticino, amidst a huge park and right by the lake. Already arriving here is an experience. When your car sets off down the long driveway, you cannot help but be impressed. After a curve, a gem of a building comes into view, a southern manor house.

There is not only the splendid park but also delightful inner courtyards.

It is an oasis of tranquility that lets your soul feel happy and content. And, what I very much appreciate, the hotel exudes an understated sense of luxury! 

Staff is friendly and professional. It is present when needed, otherwise it is careful to be unobtrusive. In my opinion, service has even become better since my last stay. In the past, there were some headwaiters who were rather on the dominant side. They have retired in the meantime and I like their successors better. There is one more thing to mention in this context. The hosts used to say goodbye in person upon departure. This seems no longer to be the case. But times changed, also because of Corona of course.

Facilities

Onsite you find a range of four restaurants and two bars. Find more details in the separate chapter about dining in style at the Castello del Sole Ascona.

As to wellness, there is a 2,500 sqm spa with everything you can think of in this respect: two saunas, steam bath, hydropool, swimming pool, Kneipp trail, solarium, treatment rooms, hairdresser’s. Furthermore, there is an indoor/outdoor pool plus a jacuzzi.

In terms of other activities, there is more to do: jogging trail, outdoor and indoor tennis courts, free bicycles, beach, water sports/stand-up paddleboarding/motorboat/pedalos (all water activities are chargeable, swimming of course not). For children there is a kids club, a new playground and some animals onsite.

And let me make one more remark as to (sun)bathing. You can either be by the pool, which is adjacent to the hotel building,

or by the beach, which is a five-minute-walk through the park.

And there is much of space available in both areas. If you insist on laying on the sand beach, the space can be a bit tight at certain times. But if you do not, then I can assure you that there is more room than you need on the grass (on sun loungers of course).

78 rooms in three buildings

There are guest accommodations in the main building, where you find 57 rooms, mostly junior suites and double/single rooms (from 438 SFR/US$). This is also where we stayed on our recent visit. We had booked a gorgeous newly renovated Deluxe Junior Suite

in the hotel’s historic part (50 – 57 sqm, from 918 SFR/US$).

Our corner room came with three mini balconies and – unfortunately – a not so good air-conditioner. Go for one that is not located at the end of the building, if you want to avoid this. But otherwise, we enjoyed it here with lots of natural light. However, be prepared that the bathroom might not be overly spacious. After all, it is the most ancient part of the property.

My favorite place to stay at the Castello del Solo Ascona is the Retreat Pavilion (from 1,118 SFR/US$).

Though, be advised, the rooms here will need to be updated in the years to come. Notwithstanding that, they are still a great choice! Situated a bit away from the reception and the restaurants, they are an oasis of calm. The 11 junior suites  (78 sqm) and the two luxury suites (145 sqm) are housed in a Lombardic country estate complete with a lovely courtyard rose garden and a splendid cloister like colonnade!

Lying on your terrace’s sun lounger and contemplating the farm land in front of you is such a relaxing thing to do!

The Well-being Suite Pavilion is the hotel’s newest building (from 1,258 SFR/US$). It is home of not only the spa but also of 8 junior suites (108 sqm), two luxury suites (158 sqm) and two duplex suites (201 sqm).

My husband and I have never stayed here, but friends of ours had. While they liked the generous layout with lots of space, they found the views (of the tennis facilities) not overly appealing.

Generally, in whatever direction your vista is, there are much better ones on site. This is due to the building’s location behind the whole hotel complex.

Dining at Hotel Castello Del Sole Ascona

Mattias Roock, a young chef, has been in charge for the hotel’s gastronomy since 2017.

In high season, when the Castello del Sole Ascona is fully booked, he and his team are responsible for 150 guests! And of course, it is a “farm to fork” concept here given the fact there is the Terreni alla Maggia farm on site.

You find here four restaurants to choose from, but some are usually only open for lunch (Ristorante Al Parco)

resp. for an early dinner in the high season (Ristorante La Spiaggia).

As to Ristorante Al Parco, it is the place to go for a leisurely lunch. If you care for it, I recommend opting for the full board option. In this case you get it for a fair additional charge of 40 SFR/US$ per person. And it includes a fabulous antipasti and salad buffet, a choice of meat, fish, pasta or pizza as main course plus a great dessert buffet.

Ristorante La Spiaggia, which is the beach restaurant, is open if the weather permits it. You get here small bites in a relaxed atmosphere. If I am not mistaken, it is open until 8pm in high season only. This is a new addition to the hotel’s culinary offer. On our last visit, there was only a small beach shack.

Now to the two main restaurants, the Ristorante Tre Stagioni, the “half board restaurant”, and the signature dining-spot, the Locanda Barbarossa.

Dinner at Ristorante Tre Stagioni

If you book half board – 55 SFR/US$ per person and day – , then you have breakfast and dinner at Ristorante Tre Stagioni. And this either on the wonderful terrace (whether permitting)

or in the indoor area.

As to the former, it has been enlarged since our last stay. This definitely is a plus because there is more room now for the individual tables and for external guests.

Breakfast takes place here, too. While the offer for the morning meal used to be quite limited at the time, there is now a broad selection of everything you possibly might need to start the day.

As to the dinner, the chef (Mattias Roock) puts together a daily changing menu with four cold starters, two soups, two hot starters, four main courses, cheese and four desserts. The cuisine is Italian with a twist. Some dishes are rather traditional, other are more refined. The restaurant has 15 Gault Millau points. Special here is that the main course is still served from platters. This allows you to make amendments to the quantities served. While it is a nice custom, I find it a bit meaningless as there is no second service (servers immediately clear the plates). In addition, it stresses the staff at certain times and most guests do not wish any changes.

When being on half board, you can order as many courses as you wish. External guests make their selection from the daily offer. My husband and I usually order four courses, a cold starter or a soup, followed by pasta or risotto, then a main course and finally a dessert. Here you find a sample menu.

Typical menu at Ristorante Tre Stagioni

Our first dinner here on our recent stay started with yellow fin tuna tataki with zucchini salad and pepperoni emulsion.

Next were conchiglie riagate (pasta) with mussels and wild fennel.

The main course was meagre fish with lemongrass sauce and vegetables in juliennes strips.

To end the meal, we went for the apricot and almond variation with amaretti ice-cream. And petit fours were also part of the meal.

Overall, it proved to be a deeply satisfying meal, served in a busy atmosphere by amiable staff. The new restaurant manager – Daniele Sardella – does a good job. He is hospitable, efficient and does not push too much into the foreground.

Next follows our dinner’s experience at the resort’s leading culinary spot, the Locanda Barbarossa. To my knowledge, it is not possible to get credit for the half board expenses when deciding to dine here instead at the Ristorante Tre Stagioni. Instead, check out the hotel’s packages, which usually include a 5- or 6-course dinner at the gourmet restaurant. My husband and I had booked the “Castello Experience” that allowed us – amongst other benefits – to have a 5-course dinner at the Locanda Barbarossa on our arrival day.

Dinner at Locanda Barbarossa

Here the “farm to fork” concept is not a marketing tactic, but one delivers on that promise. They harvest what is available on the grounds: yuzu, 20 berry and 22 tomato variations, their own pepper and saffron, risotto rice and much more.

The chef, Mattias Roock, and his restaurant manager, Sergio Bassi, know their stuff. Not only is the cuisine exceptional and truly noteworthy, but everything is perfectly orchestrated. And on our evening, the weather was perfect for dining in the courtyard, the beautiful Cortile Leone.

Yet the indoor area would have been nice, too.

The restaurant has one Michelin star and 18 Gault Millau points. As to the cuisine, it is grounded in the classic French tradition yet heavily influenced by the Mediterranean one. This fact contributes to a pleasant lightness and freshness. And due to the chef’s former workplaces, there is an added Asian and oriental touch. We loved it! And we liked it much better than the dinner we had here years ago at his predecessor.

Here is what we had …

5-course Menu Degustazione at Locanda Barbarossa

After a seafood amuse bouche

duck foie gras was the star of the first course.

It was paired with apple, black walnuts, apple balsamic vinegar and a brioche with nuts. We proceeded with filled pasta, fagottini with fior di latte ricotta, in unison with Périgord truffle and young vegetables.

Next was lobster blended with Kashmir curry, peas, fruit chutney and coriander.

The main course featured summer deer with celery, bitter orange and bio arabica coffee.

Before it was time for dessert, a refreshing pre-dessert, was served.

The sweet dish, yellow peach, was superb as everything we had here. It was a divine creation made of this stone fruit, verbena, hibiscus and blossom sorbet.

And – of course – the feast was rounded up with some petit fours.

Overall

Do you fancy a Lombardian manor house with expansive green areas in Mediterranean environment by the lake, then I might have a hotel tip for staying in style. If you care for understated luxury, lots of privacy and gourmet dining as well, all the better. You find this and more at the fabulous Castello del Sole Ascona near Locarno in Switzerland’s south, in the canton of Ticino.

I have stayed here a couple of times, the first time some 25 years ago, and just lately. And imagine, the “sun castle” becomes better and better.

Although it was already on a high level. I think for example of the new beach restaurant, the freshly renovated rooms in the hotel’s historic part or the exquisite food at the Michelin starred Locanda Barbarossa. And from what I read, they still have a lot of plans how to beware the property’s unique qualities.

Last date of stay: July 2021

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My latest destination for my early summer vacations was once again my homeland, Switzerland – who is surprised? And Corona could still be blamed. But hey, this beautiful country has such an abundance of travel attractions! As the year before, my husband and I went to the Ticino, Switzerland’s south, looking for near Mediterranean vibes. And there should be two overnight stops en route, one on the way and one on the way back. As always, we wanted it to be a luxury trip with Michelin dining, whenever possible. So we opted for Ascona as our main destination as well as for Andermatt and the Lake Constance area underway. And this because we knew about suitable hotels in those places for staying and dining in style. Yet, we had a luxury Ascona trip in mind in the first place.

What were our choices? In terms of restaurants, we only opted for hotels with gourmet restaurants. So that spared us looking for offsite dining-spots. Before coming to our selected lodging in Ascona, Andermatt and the Lake Constance area, a few words about each of these regions.

Ticino & two overnight stops on the way

Ascona, our main destination, can be reached from the country’s northwest in about two and a half hours’ drive. So there is actually no need to plan on an intermediary stop. But as my husband and I were looking for a change of location and – wanted to try out a specific hotel – , we scheduled a two-night stay in Andermatt.

While this first stop does not require a detour on our way to Ascona, this is a bit different with the one in the Lake Constance area. But as we booked it on short notice, the choice was somewhat limited. So we had a longer drive home. But that was no problem as Switzerland is small. Concretely, you need about two and three quarters of an hour from Ascona to Lake Constance and then another one hour and forty minutes back to Switzerland’s northwest.

1. Ticino, Switzerland’s south, a luxury Ascona trip

As previously reported on my blog, the canton of Ticino is apart from all others in Switzerland. Here people do not only speak Italian, but it is also some kind of Italian Mediterranean within my home country. Think of lots of sunshine, palm trees, water fronts (two lakes), relaxed ambiance and plenty of vacationers, mostly German Swiss or German. And although the Ticino has a bit of Italy, it is decidedly Swiss with all the prejudices that are at least partly true.

Most leisure travelers to the Ticino either go to the Lugano area or the Locarno resp. Ascona one. While Lugano

is the largest town in this Swiss canton featuring a nice old town and numerous mountains with splendid viewpoints, Locarno is smaller (and more touristy).

The same is true for Ascona, a neighboring village. And both places are located on Lake Maggiore. Ascona is a truly idyllic spot, boasting an enchanting historic core and a picturesque lakeside piazza.

The Ticino is one of my favorite vacation spots in my home country. So it is no surprise that you find several posts about it on my blog. Amongst others, I have written about where to stay and dine in style in Lugano (my post) or about all the luxury hotels in Ascona (my post).

2. Andermatt, Swiss Alps

Andermatt is a mountain village (1,437 m/4,715 ft above sea level) at a four-way crossroads, the north-south route (Gotthard Pass) and the west-east one (Furka Pass to west and Oberalp Pass to east).

While this attribute had been an important attribute for a long time, this changed with the opening of the Gotthard Road Tunnel in 1980. As a consequence, Andermatt has been bypassed on the crucial north-south route ever since.

While this Alpine village remained quite popular as a ski resort – snow is almost always guaranteed here in winter – , it otherwise lost importance, from a tourism viewpoint. This is also because the Urseren valley, where Andermatt is located, has a rather harsh climate.

The big change came in 2009, when Samih Sawiris, an Egyptian investor, decided to spend one billion SFR/US$ on the touristic development of Andermatt. First, there was the construction of The Chedi, a five-star superior hotel, and The Chedi Residences.

Then other hotels, vacation homes and mountain railways (SkiArena Andermatt) followed. With the addition of a golf course – seemingly one of the best in Switzerland – , Andermatt became a year-round destination. And Sawiris’ latest coup – and his last one here, as he says – is even a concert hall.

3. Lake Constance area in Switzerland’s northeast

Lake Constance, Central Europe’s third largest lake, straddles three countries, Germany, Austria and Switzerland. The Swiss part is located on the lake’s south-western side and is the country’s most north-eastern area. And it is – maybe in contrast to the German one, which is notably sunnier – not overly touristy.

Having said that, there is a bunch of things to do in the area. Attractions include the Rhine Falls in Schaffhausen (Europes largest waterfall), the Mainau Island (the Flower Island, Germany) or the Abbey Precinct of Saint Gallen.

I have been to the area several times in previous years, be it in Saint Gallen (my post), the largest city in the area, or in Heiden, a picturesque rural place not far from Saint Gallen (my post).

After this information on the areas visited on my early summer vacations, now to our choice of hotels.

3 excellent gourmet hotels in eastern Switzerland 

As outlined, we made a first stop at the mountain resort of Andermatt at the foot of the Saint Gotthard. And of course, we chose the signature’s lodging here, the mentioned ultra-luxury The Chedi (my post). Next was the main thing, a luxury Ascona trip. This was a five-night stay in this former fishing village in the immediate vicinity of Locarno, Ticino’s third-largest town. Here we went for a long time favorite of ours, the luxury hotel Castello del Sole (my report). We have not been here for seven years, and we were excited to see the changes. For our way home via the Lake Constance area, we gave Mammertsberg (my post), a luxury boutique hotel, a try.

Now to some more details to these properties. A full review of each will follow in separate posts.

1. Andermatt: The Chedi (1 Michelin star)

This is undoubtedly one of Switzerland’s most luxury hotels, and one of the country’s most expensive ones! It was opened in 2013 as first hotel of Sawiris’ mega development in Andermatt. And The Chedi is really something special! It is an unusual blend of Swiss Alpine chic and Asian vibe. You would not expect to find such a place in a quaint skiing resort as Andermatt! Every one of the 123 rooms – all at least 52 sqm in size – has its own fireplace. You can choose amongst four restaurants – The Japanese Restaurant has a Michelin star – and the award-winning spa is spread over 2,400 sqm and has indoor and outdoor pools. For details, refer to my report about it.

2. Ascona: Castello del Sole (1 Michelin star)

If you care for privacy and space to breathe, this might be the place for you. The whole complex (with bird sanctuary and farmland) covers 140 hectares! And the Mediterranean stately house with charming courtyards, directly located at the Lake Maggiore, is surrounded by an extensive park (14 hectares). It is a five-star superior property and member of the Relais & Château hotel group. There are 78 rooms in different buildings, a 2,500 sqm spa and four restaurants including the Locanda Barbarossa, which has been awarded a Michelin star. Furthermore, you find at the Castello del Sole several indoor and outdoor pools plus a private beach. Find here my hotel review.

3. Lake Constance: Mammertsberg (1 Michelin star)

UPDATE: new management as from fall 2022 (boutique collection by Andreas Caminada, 2-star Michelin chef Silvio Germann)

The Mammertsberg is a true postcard idyll, housed in a hundred-year-old mansion and overlooking Lake Constance. You find this luxury boutique hotel, featuring only six rooms, in the rural canton of Thurgau yet close to the city of Saint Gallen. The property – a Relais & Château house too – has been meticulously renovated complete with the construction of a modern monolith. Onsite there is a one Michelin starred restaurant with an outdoor area with stunning views of lake and farm land. And the hosts (including all staff) are among the most amiable I have ever encountered! As there are no other amenities, it is rather something for a short stay (one or two nights). And for details, refer to my post.

In case you are interested about more details to our luxury Ascona trip combined with two stops on the way, come back later. There will be comprehensive reviews about The Chedi (my report) in Andermatt, the Castello del Sole (my post) in Ascona and the Mammertsberg (my stay) in Freidorf/Lake Constance in the time to come.

Date of stay: July 2021

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Lucerne is one of Switzerland’s most popular destinations for package travelers, especially from the U.S. and Asia. While it is normally not the place where to spend a night as a Swiss living in the Swiss Mittelland, this is different in these Corona times. With restaurants closed outside of hotels (not the case anymore), it was a preferred spot for a staycation. With lots of luxury and four-star hotels at hand, you are spoilt for choice. I always wanted to try out the Montana Art Deco Hotel, a premium property on a hill with beautiful views of city, lake and mountains in Lucerne. Therefore, my husband and did not hesitate long when we came upon a special offer that included eat, drink and sleep.

Before coming to the hotel, a few remarks about the city of Lucerne.

About Lucerne

This city does not need a big introduction as many people know about its position as a tourist hotspot. Since the start of tourism in Switzerland, this gateway to the country’s core has been popular. And this not without reason. It sits on Lake Lucerne, one of the most beautiful ones in Switzerland. Further, the city enjoys a magnificent mountain panorama.

And there is quite a selection of mid-high mountains nearby worth a visit (Rigi, Pilatus and Stanserhorn). Last but not least, Lucerne is a beautiful city with lots of sights.

In this context, think of the Chapel Bridge, the oldest covered wooden bridge in Europe,

or the Museggmauer, medieval fortifications.

Other attractions include the Lion Monument, a rock relief,

or the innovative Culture and Convention Center (KKL), an architectural highlight by Jean Nouvel.

In case you also want to get a feel of an (upscale) residential area outside the city limits, why not hop on a bus and head to nearby Meggen. Get off at the Chapel (Kapelle) station and walk back to central Lucerne (1 1/2 h), almost always with fabulous views of Lake Lucerne.

Make a stop at the splendid Meggenhorn Castle to make a stroll in its gorgeous gardens.

After this digression about things to do in Lucerne, now to Hotel Montana. And what it has to offer for travelers looking for staying and dining in style.

Staying at Montana Art Deco Hotel Lucerne, a premium hotel

As mentioned, my husband and I were looking for a staycation in need for a break from the “Corona predicament”. And we were on a last minute mission, for an upcoming national holiday. While there had been no vacancies for our desired date the last time we checked at the Montana Art Deco Hotel Lucerne, we were lucky enough to find a free room just a few days before departure. And of course there was not much choice in terms of room categories. There were only two double rooms available, but at least with lake view!

Here is what you can expect when staying at this hotel.

Location/History

As mentioned, it is set a bit above the city of Lucerne, in a preferred location with great views of the surroundings. The vista includes not only the city,

lake and mountains,

but you can also locate sights just as the Chapel Bridge or the Culture and Convention Center (KKL).

Despite its hill location, it is centrally situated. And you do not have to climb up to reach it. Because there is a hotel owned funicular railway just by the Casino/Palace Hotel

at the lakeside promenade! It is the shortest in the world and brings you to the hotel lobby within one minute.

As to Hotel Montana’s history, it opened in 1910. It was built as a palace hotel in the Art Deco style. Through the years, a number of renovations took place. All were aimed to maintain the character of the house yet targeted at an updated Art Deco style. As to the most recent overhauls, in 2018, the last rooms were equipped with air-conditioning. A year before, the new Penthouse Floor opened. Here, the rooms offer five-star service coming with that little extra. In 2015, a new addition was a bar in the form of beach club.

As to the management, the longtime director, Fritz Erni (1996 – 2020) helped the Montana to achieve. He was full of ideas of which many were successful. The accommodation has been named best four-star city hotel several times (by Sonntagszeitung hotel rating, last time in 2021). The current director (as from 2020) is Miriam Boeger, who also can look back on a longer career in this house.

Facilities

On site you find 61 rooms. While on the lower floors there are the “regular” rooms, on the two upper floors there is – as mentioned – a penthouse tract with five-star standard. You can choose here amongst 19 room of different categories. All the rooms come with more space and amenities (for instance partly with private whirlpool on the balcony).

As my husband and I had booked on short notice, we did not have a selection. There were “only” two double rooms with lake view

available. Room of this category differ in size (19 – 32 sqm) and layout. And they have either a shower or a tub. Ours was adequately sized. The bathroom featured a shower and one sink only with not much storage space around it.

It was okay for a one-night stay. For a longer one, I would have preferred more room. The decor was tasteful with parquet floor, warm colors and geometric patterns.

As to other facilities, there are the main restaurant Scala (see below), the Beach Club (roof top bar), the Louis Bar (with live music)

and the Kitchen Club. At the latter, you can have an aperitif and snacks or a complete dinner at a high table amidst the kitchen (26 seats). You can also book it for private occasions as from 12 persons.

To complete the offer, you can use the mentioned funicular railway to get to Lucerne’ s lakeside promenade and vice versa.

After these details to staying at the Montana, now to the dinner experience at Restaurant Scala.

Gourmet dining at Restaurant Scala at Montana Art Deco Hotel Lucerne

Dining facilities/Package/Cuisine

Restaurant Scala, where they also serve breakfast, has an indoor and outdoor area. The latter has been transformed into some sort of living room that is suitable for whatever the weather (from spring to fall).

Our table was in the latter area. When we dined here, it rained. But that was no problem at all. We felt well at ease here. And I am sure the views of the surrounding are formidable, with good weather. As mentioned, this was unfortunately not the case on our evening.

We had booked the so-called “Delight Package with Wine & Dine”. This included a room of your choice – in our case a Double Room Lake View – , a 5-course Scala menu with wine pairing, breakfast with a glass of champagne and a goody. This cost us (on a national holiday) 844 SFR/US$, what I found good value for the price.

At Restaurant Scala, a refined cuisine from the south is on offer, influenced by Swiss, Italian, French and Greek culinary traditions. Johan Breedijk, a Dutchman, has been in charge here since 2007. And he has a handle on it. Everything we got was of good quality, well prepared, and the service was paced exactly right. The cuisine is awarded 15 points by Gault Millau, and I find this well deserved. And come hungry if you opt for the menu because the servings are quite big.

Montana 5-course spring menu & wine pairing

We started with tuna accompanied by a wasabi panna cotta, avocado cream and mango-chili chutney, a promising beginning!

Next was a bear’s garlic risotto paired with an eggplant-burrata wrap and white tomato foam. It was carefully done and tasty.

The same is true for the main course, a Black Angus beef fillet with herb crust and thyme jus complete with a sweet potato cream puff and spring vegetables.

Before it was time for dessert, we received an assortment of cheese, coming from Switzerland and Italy.

And a chocolate cake in unison with rhubarb and strawberry sour cream ice cream put the sweet end to this delicious meal.

The amiable staff served us a glass of wine to every course. Each of those were ideal pairings, we liked what we got.

Overall

Lucerne is one of Switzerland’s most popular tourist spots, and therefore there is a great selection of fine luxury and premium hotels. If you look for a four-star house here in the country’s core, one of the best is Montana Art Deco Hotel. It is located a bit above town yet still centrally located and with beautiful views of city, lake and mountains. The hotels has also something for gourmets, Restaurant Scala awarded 15 Gault Millau points. And if you want to combine eat, drink and sleep, go for the Delight Package. This is what my husband and I had done on our (Corona) staycation.

Date of stay: May 2021

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The post Montana Art Deco Hotel, a premium hotel & foodie place in Lucerne, Switzerland first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Montana Art Deco Hotel, a premium hotel & foodie place in Lucerne, Switzerland appeared first on Swiss Traveler.