Now it is about two more “Fingers of the Peloponnese Hand”! In this context you have to be aware of the fact that this most southern part of mainland Greece is like a left hand directed downwards. In the paragraphs to be followed I go into the “East/Monemvasia Finger” and the “Middle/Mani Finger”. The “Peloponnese Hand” is where my husband and I went end of October last year. Traveling this Greek region steeped in history was a rewarding thing to do! And tourists at this time of the year were not plentiful. Find details of the whole trip in the next paragraph. After this, I will let you know what to do plus where to go for best hotels and (fine-dining) restaurants in the mentioned “Fingers”.

Before elaboration further, there is again my Google Map of our Peloponnese and Athens itinerary. It comes with all the upscale lodging we stayed and the (fine-dining) spots we ate.

Peloponnese & Athens in style, the itinerary overview

My travel report is split in four parts. My last post – part one – went into the trip outline, some general information and the first “Peloponnese Finger”, the “Thumb”. The latter is the region of Argolis with the town of Nafplio. Part two is the present one with the “East or Index Finger” and the “Mani or Middle Finger”. Region wise it concerns Laconia first of all. As to part three, the focus is on the “West or the Ring Finger”, the Messenia region, plus Olympia and the mountainous Arcadia region. And part four is about Athens.

While my husband and I did a road trip in the Peloponnese (part one to three), we were stationary in Athens. Throughout my reporting, you will learn about where to go for the best upscale hotels and restaurants. No easy thing in the Peloponnese I can tell you! However, in Athens, it went smoothly. Furthermore, I will let you know about some major sights everywhere we went (part one to three). In addition, you will also find some walking/hiking suggestions, as we like to explore the area on foot (part one to three).

From place to place in the Peloponnese, part II, “Peloponnese East & Mani Fingers”

1. “Peloponnese East Finger”

A good base on the “Peloponnese East Finger” is Monemvasia, a dramatic place just off the coast. When driving here from Nafplio, we did a stop in Tyros, a small, charming seaside town. It is great for a short walk along the beautiful pebbled beach. And Café Zorbas is good for a drink.

About the “Peloponnese East Finger”

Monemvasia

The absolute highlight on this “Finger” is Monemvasia, without any doubt. Nothing prepares you for the sight of this (almost) inhabited rock rising out of the sea. It is often compared to the Rock of Gibraltar, although it is only a fraction of its size. Yet it is still just as dramatic. Locals call this place “The Castle”, but it actually is a stunning fortified town. This medieval place comes with castle walls (lower town) and a fortress on the top (upper town). While the former is well-kept,

the latter is mostly in ruins, expect the Church of Hagia Sophia.

It is well worth climbing up to the upper town, not only to see the ruins but also for the views of the sea and the town of Gefira.

Find here the link to a hike leading around the rock and through both the upper and lower town. Recommended places for small bites in the area are Emvasis Café in the lower town and  Bakery Angelakos, south of Gefira.

Further activity “Peloponnese East Finger”

We did one more activity on the “Peloponnese East Finger”, and this was a walk/hike in its very south. It starts in a remote fishing village

leading along the beautiful coast. Nearby is also the Geopark of Agios Nikolaos, a petrified forest. While we did not have time to visit this attraction, it might be worth doing.

When being in the area and longing for fine pastry, head to Laconia’s capital, Neapoli Vion. Here you find several establishments offering such treats. My husband and I opted for this place and very much liked what we got!

Our hotel: Kinsterna Monemvasia, one of the best hotels on the Peloponnese East Finger

Hotel Kinsterna is the only five-star accommodation far and wide. That is not all, it really is a dreamy property! This fort-like manor is perched up high on the hillside a short stretch down the coast from the Monemvasia Castle. It has origins dating back to the mid 17th century. When the current owners purchased the estate in 2002, it was in bad shape. Since 2006, it underwent renovations and reopened in 2010, restored to its former glory.

Out of the 52 rooms, my husband and I opted for a Premium Residence. These rooms offer much space (35-42sqm)

and come with a large terrace

as well as a marble bathroom.

Ours had a view of the gardens, which was nice. As to the decor, it was a lovely mix of traditional and modern elements. The one thing that we did not like so much was that the room was a bit dark. The daily rate amounted to 452€ with breakfast.

In terms of restaurants, there are two onsite. It is about the all-day Mouries and the Linos Tavern, which is only open seasonally (on certain days). We had dinner at the former once, but we did not return as the experience disappointed (mediocre food, inconsistent service). However, breakfast was a different affair with lots of choice and pleasant staff.

Otherwise, the facilities at Kinsterna are great. You find here two pools and an extensive activity program. And the staff was generally friendly and well trained.

Our restaurant: Athivoli Monemvasia, one of the best restaurants on the Peloponnese East Finger

As we were not in favor of the restaurant at our hotel (see above), we dined elsewhere. And Athivoli,

a tavern on the coast south of the Monemvasia Castle, turned out to be a hit! On two occasions, it persuaded with well-made Greek cuisine that came with a modern twist now and then. I very much liked the starters just as fried local cheese (8€) or roasted aubergine (7€). Also the spinach salad was a good choice (10€). When it came to mains, we did not try out the meat dishes, but only had fish and seafood (15 to 18€). Yet these dishes were made with quality ingredients and immaculately prepared. And they were accompanied by original sides. The two desserts we had, Ekmek Kataifi (6€) and Lemon Pie(7€), were equally fine.

As to the setting, it was the most cultivated ambiance we encountered in a Greek tavern during our 17-day stay in this country. And the service was friendly and accommodating. We even got a gratis after-dinner liqueur on our second visit!

2. “Peloponnese Mani Finger”

On the transfer from the “East Finger” (Monemvasia) to Aeropoli and surroundings – where you find the most lodging options – , it makes sense to stop in Gythio, a picturesque coastal town. It is the capital of the so-called Lower Mani. If you have a sweet tooth, this patisserie makes heavenly pastries!

And also have a look at the Dimitrios Shipwreck on Valtaki Beach.

About the “Peloponnese Mani Finger”

Why Mani deserves a special mention

The “Mani Finger” is definitively something special! Whereas in other parts of the Peloponnese you find lovely landscapes with olive-studded hills and villages of golden stone, this is different in the Inner Mani (south of Areopoli). Both the land and people are austere. Stark, treeless mountain, stone fields and stone towers shape the landscape. Mani is home to the Maniots, known as fierce warriors, who used to fight seemingly endlessly about water and land. They built stone houses with castle-like towers, and this often in almost inaccessible hillsides.

It was not until the 1970s, when the national government reduced the local autonomy in Mani. From then on, new roads were constructed to bind all the towns to civilization. While this was the start to touristic development, mass tourism has not (yet) reached this part of the Peloponnese – and hopefully never will! For me, Mani is the most beautiful part we encountered here. It is different, wild, harsh, sometimes dismissive, but also authentic, relaxed and friendly.

What to do in (Inner) Mani

Touring the Mani villages

The unique combination of rugged landscapes, small villages with ancient tower houses (called pyrgospita) and remote, narrow beaches has its unique appeal. A good idea to get an impression of the Inner Mani is to go on a car tour. Here is a suggestion for a half- to full-day trip: Pirgos Dirou (Diros Caves) – Charouda (Temple of Taxiarchis) – Drialos (Church Agios Georgios) – Mezapos (Chalikia Beach) – Kato Gardenitsa (Church Naos tou Sotira) – Gerolimenas (beautiful coastal town, Restaurant Veludo, KaSeas Boutique Hotel) –

Vathia (tower houses) – Marmari Beach – Porto Kagio – Kokinogia (one-hour walk to Cape Tainaron Lighthouse) – drive back along the Mani east coast (towns with imposing tower houses: Lagia, Exo Nimfio and Flomochori / beach stops: Kokala Beach, Kontronas Beach).

Other things to do in Mani

We did not the above mentioned walk to Cape Tainaron but instead chose the one to Tigani Castle more northwest. And this was a rewarding thing to do! This estate in ruins sits on a spectacular peninsula that looks like a frying pan, which is actually its name in Greek. You have stunning views all the time, and you can roam around the ruins of a medieval fortress. Historians have varying opinions about this place (if it is the mysterious Grand Magne or something different). Anyway, it is fun exploring it a bit. Here is the link to this walk/hike, starting from the village of Agias Kiriakis. On your return, you could also do a detour to Church Panagia Agitria (maybe add another 50 minutes for walking).

Instead of making the above side trip, we shortly visited the village of Mezapos with its Chalikia Beach (see also above chapter). We had viewed it from Agios Kiriakis and wanted to see it up close. And we had two more places on our agenda which you should not miss on your Mani trip, Aeropoli

and Limeni.

he former is Mani’s capital and has a nice old town with its characteristic tower houses. Not far from it you find the port of Limeni, more a hamlet around an idyllic cove.

Our hotel: Aria Estate Mani, one of the best hotels on the Peloponnese Mani Finger

For quite some time we struggled to find a hotel to stay in style in the Inner Mani. As we were here at the beginning of November, many lodgings had already closed down for the season. Finally, we were fortunate to happen across Hotel Aria Estate! It is remotely situated on a hillside facing the sea, about 8 minutes by car either from Aeropoli and Limeni. What a gorgeous property it is! I was excited from the beginning when driving down the driveway.

And my enthusiasm lasted until our departure three nights later!

First of all, I adored the hotel’s fantastic setting and its tranquil vibe. Then I was fond of its layout and construction, an array of stone houses made in the typical Maniot architecture. It was built in 2018 and has 15 rooms. We opted for the top one-bedroom accommodation, the One Bedroom Superior Seaview Jacuzzi (48sqm, 340€ with breakfast per night). It is a dreamy place! It consists of a bedroom, a living room with a wet bar, a balcony and a terrace with a jacuzzi.

What a great thing to experience the sunset from here! I also liked the interiors, which are airy and all kept in bright colors. While the bathroom is not overly big, it was okay for the two of us.

The female hotel manager seemed to have a firm hand on the estate. She was always present to guide the staff (not all had a good command of English) and to take care of the guests. On site you also find two pools – one outdoor,

the other in the spa.

And there is a restaurant, more about it below.

Our restaurant: Horizon at Hotel Aria Estate Mani (Instagram), one of the best restaurants on the Peloponnese Mani Finger

It was impossible to find a similarly good dining spot as Restaurant Horizon at our hotel (see above) in the area. At least that was true at the beginning of November when some spots had already closed for the season. We dined here three times and found it to be one of the better eateries we had on our Peloponnese stay. And the (à la carte) breakfast at Horizon was definitely the best we experienced on our Greece journey (including Athens)!

On offer here is high-quality Mediterranean fare with a creative twist, here and there with a focus on local food. The dinner menu features starters just as sea bass carpaccio (15€) or local cheese croquettes (14€) and two salads (12€). For mains think of a regional chicken dish (18€) or shrimps with local pasta (20€). Desserts include their take of Bougatsa, a Greek custard pie, (10€) or more international choices just a chocolate mousse with ice cream (12€). When dining here three times in a row, there was enough variation in choices to prevent repetition.

The setting at Restaurant Horizon is nice with white linen-covered tables in the evening. Al fresco dining would have be an option on our stay, but we found it too chilly outside. And on one or two evenings, it also was quite cool inside as they let the entrance door as well as the terrace door open. Yet Horizon is not an exception in this regard, Greek people seem to love draughty restaurants … Staff was friendly and helpful but not always experienced, which however was not a major issue.

Looking forward and back to road trip in the Peloponnese in style (Part I, III & IV)

I started in the last post with an overview of the whole 17-day Peloponnese and Athens journey. In addition, i informed about some things to know when coming to this southernmost region of Greece, especially in fall. Plus, I began with part one of four in total, the “Peloponnese Thumb”, that is Nafplio and the Argolis region. As in all parts, I advised on some major sights including suggestions for walks/hikes. And as my husband and I look out for the best high-end hotels and restaurants everywhere we go, this topic is always covered in my reporting. Here in this very post, it was about the “Peloponnese East Finger” around Monemvasia and the “Peloponnese Middle or Mani Finger”. Part three will focus on the “Peloponnese West Finger” (Messenia)

and the mountain region of Arcadia.

Part four finally will go into a city-stay in Athens.

Date of stay: November 2024

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The post 14 days on the road in the Peloponnese/Greece and a short stay in Athens in style – PART II “East & Mani Fingers” first appeared on Swiss Traveler

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Seeking sun and warmth in Europe late October, my husband and I headed to the Peloponnese. We wanted to spend a fortnight in this most southern part of mainland Greece, followed by a three-day stay in Athens. Imagine it was our first visit to Greece ever. So far, we had thought it to be too touristy. Yet word had reached us that the Peloponnese with its wealth of historic treasures was not so, at least in fall. Thus, we set out to discover this piece of land. And it did not disappoint! While it was not always easy to find opportunities to stay and dine in style here, we managed somehow. Find out in my posts to come about our itinerary, what to do and where to go for best upscale hotels and restaurants in the Peloponnese. Of course, Athens is also part of my reporting – no problems here if you are looking to treat yourself! After outlining the whole trip in this post, I start with part one, the “Peloponnese Thumb”.

Before delving into the topic, first a few lines about the Peloponnese as a travel destination. And what to expect when vacationing here in fall.

Peloponnese as a travel destination

The southernmost region of Greece, less than an hour from Athens, is known for many things. It features not only untamed nature, pristine beaches and remarkable mountain peaks and villages, but also has an exceptionally rich history and culture. Think in this context of great archaeological sites just as Olympia or Epidaurus dating back to the ancient Greeks. Yet there is more, Greece also experienced the Byzantine era or a Venetian interlude. And it endured long periods of Ottoman rule too. All this thousands of years of civilisation left behind remnants in the Peloponnese ready to be explored!

Main sights: “Fingers & Palm of the Peloponnese Hand”

Funnily enough, we all have a map of the Peloponnese. Just point your left hand to the ground, and there you have it. Your “Thumb” is Argolis with the beautiful town of Nafplio and Epidaurus. As to your “Index or East Finger”, it is where you find Monemvasia, a fortress town. Your “Middle Finger” is the Mani peninsula with its typical town houses and rugged nature. And your “Ring or West Finger” is the fertile Messenia with Kalamata, one of the bigger towns in the Peloponnese. As far as your small finger is concerned, it is beyond my knowledge where this is supposed to be. Finally, in your “Palm” lie Olympia, Sparta or Mystras, all historical sites, and the mountainous region of Arcadia.

When & how long to go to the Peloponnese

In terms of best travel time for the Peloponnese, April to June as well as September and October are good months. It is too hot in July and August, and high summer is the busiest season too. My husband and I went in the last days of October until mid November. The latter month is said to be often unstable weatherwise and is gradually getting worse. And I can confirm this. The first days were the warmest. The nights increasingly became colder, and the winds intensified. However, it was almost always sunny and warm enough in day time.

If you want to go to the Peloponnese in late fall, I suggest that you better chose the last two weeks in October. That comes with the additional benefit of more hotels still being open. And I find a fortnight the ideal period to explore Peloponnese’s main sights (the southern two thirds of the peninsula: “Fingers & Palm of the Peloponnese Hand”).

14 days on the road in the Peloponnese & 3 days (stationary) in Athens

Here is my Google Map of our Peloponnese and Athens itinerary complete with all the upscale hotels and (fine-dining) restaurants we were.

As to the Peloponnese part, it is about the best lodging we found and that was still open (many hotels close down for the season end of October). In terms of dining spots in the Peloponnese, you have to be aware that there is not much around that merits the name “fine dining” outside of cities and high-end hotels. So, I have included the best restaurants we encountered offering an overall good enough experience, especially food wise.

My husband and I flew into Athens, picked up a rental car and drove to our first destination, Nafplio (three nights). In case you only want to explore the Peloponnese without a (stationary) stay in Athens, there is also the option to fly into Kalamata (“West Finger”). After discovering “the Peloponnese Thumb” we drove on to Monemvasia, on the “Index or East Finger” (three nights). Next was the “Middle Finger” with the Mani peninsula (three nights). Our last stay by the Mediterranean coast was in Messenia, the “Peloponnese Ring or West Finger” (two nights) before heading inland. And this was to the mountainous Arcadia (three nights). When doing this we travelled via Olympia to get an impression of this extraordinary historic site.

Our last drive was from the Menalon highlands to the airport where we returned our car and grabbed a taxi to get to Athen’s downtown for a three-day city stay.

What is next in my Peloponnese & Athens reporting?

Now to some information about the individual stops on our Peloponnese itinerary. This includes a couple of sights and walking suggestions.  And you get details about where we stayed and dined, and this in style whenever possible. As to Athens, I only go into our luxury hotel and the three fine-dining restaurants we dined at. As there is quite a lot of material, I need to break my reporting down in four parts. I start in this blogpost with part one that covers the “Peloponnese Thumb” (what to do and best hotels/restaurants). The next one will be about the “Index or East Finger” and the “Middle or Mani Finger”. As to part three, I will go into the “Ring or West Finger” and Arcadia. And finally, in one more post I will address Athens.

From place to place in the Peloponnese itinerary, part I, “Peloponnese Thumb”

Nafplio & Argolis

Here it is about one of the most worth seeing towns in the Peloponnese, Nafplio. Yet also the surrounding area, the Argolis peninsula, has much to offer.

About the “Peloponnese Thumb”

On your way from the Athens airport to Nafplio, where you absolutely should stay because of its beauty, you can make a stop in Corinth. If you have half an hour to spare, take a quick look at the impressive Corinth Canal. In case you have more time, why not visit the ancient Corinth (we did not).

As to Nafplio, this first capital of the modern Greek state is a true gem! I have read that it is like a bigger version of the Plaka in Athens (old town), only more beautiful. And there is some truth in it. Think of gorgeous cobbled streets, a wealth of Venetian architecture or charming squares of every size. In its core you find the Syntagma Square,

which is not only vast and striking yet even paved in marble. Furthermore, there are three forts, from which you should visit the Palamidi Fortress

in particular. Plus, there is a great hike leading via the Palamidi Path

to Nafplio’s south, and this until the path comes to an end. Here is the link to the track on Outdooractive.

A must-do sight in Nafplio’s surround is the Epidaurus amphitheater, one of the best-preserved of Greece’s ancient sites, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. If you do a half-day trip, you can also visit a second such site, either Mycenae or Ancient Nemea. We opted for the lesser visited latter, which you could combine with a wine tasting in the area (we did not).

Our hotel: Navria Nafplio

When it comes to the best hotels in the “Peloponnese Thumb”, we did not look further than Nafplio. As this town is considered as its jewel, we absolutely wanted to stay here. There is the one or other luxury hotel in and around town, yet we did not think about choosing one of them. Either they do not get good reviews or are not in the historic old town. So, we opted for one of the many favourably rated boutique accommodations in town. In our case, it was Hotel Navria located on a small and relatively quiet square in the old town.

Right across the square there is its sister hotel, Aetoma, which also seems to be a good choice for demanding travelers. The lovely breakfast by the way, is available at Navria for both accommodations. And the two of them are only steps away from the bustling town center.

While Navria has modern interiors, its exteriors incorporate elements from the long gone by Ottoman period. As to rooms, six different ones are at your disposal. While many of them sound favourable, we went for the Suite. It features a balcony and a generous layout.

The bathroom is not big, but cleverly constructed with a pleasant walk-in shower and ample storage space.

Staff is extremely friendly and helpful, we felt very at ease here. And it was the least expensive room of our whole trip, it only cost us 165€ per night (with breakfast).

Our restaurants: Wild Duck, Valaora & Thyme, all in Nafplio

You have to know that Nafplio has lots of touristy restaurants, which are mostly traditional Greek taverns. Yet there are also some places which come close to what one understands under fine dining. This is especially true for Valaora, which is an upscale restaurant in a beautiful setting by the sea.

Also the service and the majority of our dishes, international food with a twist, were convincing.

When it came to our mains however, neither the Moussaka nor the Rooster Tortellini, both modern takes on the original receipts, were big throws. With the former, the aubergine was hardly recognizable and the meat subpar. As to the latter, the pasta dough was far too thick. And the prices were stiff compared to other restaurants in the area.

As to the second dining spot, Wild Duck served good contemporary creations

in pleasant surroundings.

Whereas I found the pricing okay, this was not so in terms of staff. When we showed up at the dining spot, they wanted to seat us outside, although we had a reservation – they did not ask about our preferences when we made it – and it was chilly. After lots of hesitation, they finally let us have seats inside.

Our third choice, Thyme, was the only one that was not in the town center but in Nafplio’s outskirts. We were nicely welcomed by the son, while his father is responsible for the kitchen. And the chef knows his job! There is only a small menu of European dishes with a contemporary touch, but everything we had was immaculately prepared and delicious.

Plus, it was good value for money. As to the ambiance, it was enjoyable with a modern flair.

Looking forth to road trip in the Peloponnese in style (part II to part IV)

After outlining a 14-day road trip itinerary in the Peloponnese and a three-day short stay in Athens, I went into part one of the voyage. That was about the “Peloponnese Thumb”, first of all the town of Nafplio (what to do and best hotels/restaurants). You have to know in this context that you have this southernmost piece of mainland Greece on your left hand. The next blogpost will be about two more of the “Peloponnese Fingers”. This is the “Index or East Finger” with the Monemvasia fortress

and the “Middle or Mani Finger”, which is a wild, rugged region. Part three covers the “Ring or West Finger”, Messenia, and the mountainous area of Arcadia, the “Peloponnese Palm”. Last, I inform about a city trip to Athens.

As far as the visit to Greece’s capital is concerned, my reporting will solely be about the luxury hotel we stayed and the three Michelin (starred) fine-dining restaurants we went. Regarding the others, I will let you know where to go for staying and dining in style (not always easy to find) but also what to do in the respective places. As my husband and I are avid walkers, I will provide some walking/hiking suggestions too.

Date of stay: November 2024

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Finally we come to the last part of a North and Central France trip done in late summer 2024. This is the France west-east crossing from the Brittany – which was the actual focus and part two – back to Switzerland where my husband and I live. We did so by taking the route via Cognac, the Dordogne and the Cantal. As to part one, that was about our way from home to Brittany, which led over the Champagne and the Normandy, and where I gave an outline of the whole journey. My reporting includes the itinerary with some of the most important things to do everywhere we went plus the one or other walking suggestion. Furthermore, I let you know where to head for best (luxury) hotels and (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants, here in this post it is about Cognac, the Dordogne and the Cantal.

Before I come to these three places, find in the following again my Google Map with our North and Central France itinerary plus all our (luxury) hotels and the (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants en route:

From place to place in North and Central France, part III, Cognac, Dordogne & Cantal

1. Cognac north of Bordeaux

About Cognac

The town of Cognac in the Charente Departement is about two hours by car north of Bordeaux. It is famous for one of the world’s best-known type of brandy. To label a spirit Cognac, it must be from a certain area and strictly made according to regulations (double-distilled). A bit like in the Champagne, you can visit the “Grande Marque” Cognac houses to view the process and to taste it.

Otherwise, in my view Cognac does not have much to offer in kind of attractions. The location on the Charente river is nice but that is it.

I found the town and even its historic center not that special. Yet it makes a great stopover for luxury traveler as you can find here two of the best luxury hotels in the area, Hotel Chais Monnet & Spa and Hotel La Nauve. While the former is in town, the latter is in Cognac’s surroundings.

Our hotel: La Nauve Cognac

My husband and I opted for the newer one of the mentioned luxury hotels, La Nauve, opened in summer 2023. And that was a great decision! It is idyllically located in a former Cognac distillery and mansion a few minutes by car from Cognac. What a beauty La Nauve is!

It is wonderfully restored with the finest materials.

Though, I considered it as impractical in many aspects, especially as far our room was concerned (Prestige Room, 33-38 sqm, No. 10, 696€ per night with breakfast, out of 12 in total). Without going in details, it was adorable from its looks, and there was a huge outdoor area too.

The breakfast was fantastic, served in the library (on inadequate chairs for the occasion).

Staff was faultless, and there are two great restaurants onsite (see below). You find here also a large garden, a bar and an outdoor pool.

Our restaurants: both at Hotel La Nauve in Cognac

We did not venture out of the hotel as I thought that both in-house dining spots made a good impression. And I was right so, both belong to the best restaurants you can find in Cognac! First I come to the casual bistro and then to the elegant gourmet dining spot, both led by chef Anthony Carballo. And pastry chef (Simon Souchaud) is a genius, I adored his varying brioches!

a) Brasserie des Flâneurs Cognac

This was one of the few restaurants on our journey through France that was not Michelin listed (although it would have deserved the award). It is situated in an annexe – that used to be the estate’s distillery – and has a modern, casual vibe.

Staff was unobtrusive but friendly. And the place seems to draw quite a number of locals. They serve modern international food, expertly prepared. Prices are at a medium level (starters from 16 to 19€, mains from 25 to 30€ and desserts around 10€).

b) Notes, gourmet restaurant, Cognac

The Michelin listed Notes is quite different from the above eatery. It is a refined dining establishment in an intimate part of the main manor.

You can make your choice between two tasting menus, one with four and the other with seven courses. I found them adequately priced, fitting the upscale setting at La Nauve (on our evening 80 and 120€). The ambiance is sophisticated and the staff, especially the head server, was top notch on our dinner. And the food – modern French cuisine – was sublime, in my view even worthy a Michelin star.

2. The Dordogne aka the Périgord

About the Dordogne/Périgord

The Dordogne department ist often called by its old name, the Périgord. The former is clearly a territorial designation (the river Dordogne). The Périgord is a historical name, it dates back to Roman times and represented the old province at the time. Yet both stand for a lovely landscape full of medieval castles, prehistoric caves and fortified villages.

The main town is Périgueux, boasting a charming old town with 2,000 years of history.

Then there are lots of villages that are part of the Les plus Beaux Villages de France (the most beautiful villages in France). Quite a few are around Sarlat, in the Black Périgord, the most popular part for visitors. I name here La Roque Gageac,

Beynac et Cazenac, Castelnaud la Chapelle or Dome. Plus, you find in the Dordogne also Jardins Remarquables (remarkable gardens), one of the more popular is Jardin du Manor d’Eyrignac.

While everything is very nice to look at, it is also quite busy (many large groups of bus tourists). To avoid the crowds, we did a nice walk/hike from La Roque Gageac to the Castelnaud La Chapelle Castle along the Dordogne, here is the link to the track on Outdooractive.

Our hotel: Domaine de Rochebois in Vitrac

Upfront I have to mention that we found it hard to select an accommodation to stay in style in the Dordogne. In search of best hotels here, you are somewhat lost. Really good luxury lodging is a rarity in this area. And our choice after much consideration turned out to be suboptimal. While Domaine de Rochebois is a beautiful property, it feels somewhat neglected.

From what I read, the hotel experienced quite some changes (opened in 1993, reopened in 2022 after a closure of 10 years, sold in 2024). On our stay, the restaurant and the golf course were closed. The room we had (Junior Suite Prestige, No. 212, 50 sqm, 514€ per night with breakfast, 40 rooms in total) had been updated not so long ago but already felt a bit dated. The same was true for the outdoor area (mossy cushions).

Staff was friendly, and the breakfast was okay. Onsite, you also find an outdoor pool and a spa. There is a bar too, yet it felt dreary.

Our restaurants: Ô Moulin in Carsac-Aillac & O’Plaisir des Sens in La Roque Gageac

If you are looking for best restaurants in the Dordogne, specifically in the so called Black Périgord, there is no way around the following two establishments.

a) Ô Moulin in Carsac-Aillac

We were much in favor of this small restaurant with a Michelin Bib Gourmand, opened in 2018. It is idyllically located in a former water-powered sawmill. The attentive lady of the house – Cécile Guérin – welcomed us and ushered us in the contemporary, casual dining room.

Her partner, Nicolas Aujoux, celebrates a modern French cuisine and occasionally also served plates on our dinner. You can choose among there tasting menus (3/3/6 courses 42/57/82€) and also dine à la carte, what we did. We had a fabulous duo of duck liver and turbot fillet, also the desserts were persuasive.

And the host even exchanged a few sentences with us, which was nice.

b) O’Plaisir des Sens in La Roque Gageac

At O’Plaisir des Sens, Bruno (chef) and Lydia Marien (host) have been at work here since 2015. The chef’s cooking expertise is evident, the restaurant is Michelin listed. His cuisine is classic, although with a modern twist. As far as the dining spot’s appearance is concerned, it is somewhat eclectic.

And the service on our dinner was down to earth, at times not quite seamless, e.g. when the host served cheese from the trolley. Plus, the business is a family affair, on our visit a daughter helped out in the service. Food wise, you have several options. Either you can choose one of three tasting menus (3/4/4 courses at 48/69/85€) or dine à la carte. We had the “the golden middle-menu”, which was fine, although a bit awkwardly composed (white beans with bacon, a delicious duck liver, sweetbread and a peach dessert).

3. Cantal, Auvergne/Aubrac Plateau

About Cantal, Auvergne/Aubrac Plateau

The Cantal mountain range respectively the Aubrac plateau are not necessarily places you know as foreign travelers. My husband and I ended up here because we had been looking for a stopover on our way from the Dordogne back to Switzerland. And imagine, we enjoyed here not only the culinary highlight, but also one of the best hotels stays of the whole trip. But more to how to travel in style further below.

If you are wondering where exactly we were, it was the town of Chaudes-Aigues.

It is located in the Massif Central in the heart of France, between the Cantal mountain range and the Aubrac plateau. The area is sparsely populated and geographically isolated. Much of Cantal is about pasture for the cattle – among other the old breed of Aubrac – and sheep. And this is because the climate is usually too cold and damp for grain. And we well noticed this on a walk we did in the area (link to the track on Outdooractive).

Regarding Chaudes-Aigues, it is a spa resort with more than 30 hot springs across the town. And the most famous is the Par Spring, which is the warmest natural one in whole Europe! As to natural beauties in the surroundings, there are the Aubrac Regional Nature Park, the Laussac Peninsula or the Truyère Gorges. A town you might have heard of is Laguiole where you find many companies that manufacture the famous Laguiole knives. In addition, it is a pretty village too.

Our hotel/restaurant in Cantal: Serge Vieira

My husband and I came to the Cantal region not because of the hot springs or the natural beauties, but because of the two-star Michelin Restaurant Serge Vieira. On our “mission” of finding the best restaurants everywhere we go, we stranded in this remote place. And fortunately, this highly decorated dining spot comes with accommodation options too. You can either stay at three rooms at the Couffour Castle (Restaurant Serge Vieira)

or at 18 rooms at their second place, Hotel Sodade, down in Chaudes-Aigues. Here in town, you also find Restaurant Sodade with a Michelin Bib Gourmand. I think that these establishments belong to the best what you can find in terms of upscale hotels and restaurants in the near and further area.

a) Stay at Serge Vieira at Couffour Castle

As I mentioned above, we experienced not only culinary delights at Serge Vieira but also a great hotel stay. Out of the three rooms available at Couffour Castle we opted for the “Yellow Room” (about 30 sqm, 415€ with continental breakfast). Yet I think all three have the same layout. We liked what we encountered, a modern and generously sized accommodation with an outdoor area for viewing the peaceful rural scenery.

What I very much appreciated was that the room came with two financier-pastries on both days of our stay. And the breakfast was out of this world!

Plus, Marie-Aude Vieira is the best host you could wish for.

b) Restaurant Serge Vieira, the best restaurant of our France journey

There is a sad back story behind this establishment. This is because the two-star Michelin chef Serge Vieira died of cancer at the age of 46 in mid 2023. Before he had built up with his wife Marie-Aude a successful restaurant and hotel business (Restaurant Serge Vieira at Couffour Castle from 2009 as well as Hotel and Restaurant Sodade from 2019). After her husband’s death, Marie-Aude Vieira took over. She did this with the help of a long-time friend of the family, Aurélien Gransagne. He runs the kitchen and she the dining room. I must say, we had the most exceptional dinners here – we ate here two evenings in a row (originally, we wanted to have the second one at Restaurant Sodade).

While I cannot judge Serge Vieira’s cuisine, I was delighted by Aurélien Gransagne’s inspired and truly unique dishes. You can choose between two menus: M for Marie-Aude at 235€ (6 courses) and S for Serge at 135€ (4 courses). Among other delicacies we had the most formidable lobster paired with corn or a dessert creation made of figs and almonds.

We enjoyed this in the ultra-modern dining room with picture windows to take in the views.

And this well cared for by the amiable host and her team.

Looking back to road trip in North & Central France in style (part I & II)

Here it was about the last part (three) of a North and Central France trip my husband and I did recently. It regards the itinerary from Cognac over the Dordogne to the Cantal, which was our way home to Switzerland from the Brittany. The start (part one) made the opposite direction, from our home country to our actual main destination. The voyage went first to the Champagne, then to the Normandy. And part two focused on the journey’s centerpiece, the Brittany.

Date of stay: September 2024

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The post 19 days on the road in North & Central France in style – PART III way from Brittany to Switzerland first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post 19 days on the road in North & Central France in style – PART III way from Brittany to Switzerland appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Now it is about the Brittany, the main focus of a road trip in North and Central France that my husband and I did in late summer 2024. To get here from our home country of Switzerland we travelled via the Champagne and the Normandy. Part one of my mini-series about the voyage went into it – and also gave an overview of the whole journey. In this very post, I concentrate on the Brittany. And part three – soon to appear on my blog – focuses on our way home from the Brittany that lead us to Cognac, the Dordogne and Cantal. In all three posts, I inform about the itinerary including the major sights and some walking suggestions. And I let you know where to go for best (luxury) hotels and (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants; here as mentioned it is about Brittany.

Before diving into the Brittany, first again my Google Map with our North and Central France itinerary plus all the (luxury) hotels and the Michelin fine-dining restaurants we were:

From place to place in North & Central France, part II, Brittany

Brittany: Dinard, Perros-Guirec & Sainte-Marine/Combrit

As you have learnt by now, Brittany was our trip’s main focus. We totally spent twelve nights here, four in each spot. The start made two places on the north coast, first Dinard, in the region’s northeast. Perros-Guirec, in the northwest followed. And Sainte-Marine/Combrit near Quimper on the west coast and at the same time in Brittany’s southwest made the end.

About Brittany

Walking/Hiking on GR 34

What I found brillant about Brittany is the fact that there is a walking/hiking trail running the entire coastline (GR 34). And this Sentier des Douaniers (Customs Trail) is about 2,000 km/ 1,243 mi long. Not that my husband and I did overly long tours, but we picked out the one or other stretch of track at every place we stayed. As to Dinard, I was fond of the walk from Dinard to Saint-Lunaire (link track Outdooractive). Around Perros-Guirec, I absolutely adored the trail from Sainte-Anne to Bringuiller (link track Outdooractive).

And in the department Finistère (around Quimper) the walk/hike on the Crozon peninsula was nice (link track Outdooractive).

Town hopping in Brittany

Of course, there is also much to in Brittany in case you do not want to walk or hike. We visited quite a numbers of towns and especially liked the following ones. I list them from northeast to southwest. Cancale is a pretty port and famous for its oysters.

And  I think we came across the most beautiful villages in Brittany just before reaching it on our way from Honfleur. Saint-Malo is a fascinating granite city with its impressive rampart but unfortunately overtouristed. Dinard – nicknamed “Cannes of the north” – is an absolute beauty with its numerous Belle Époque villas.

More to Brittany’s west, Tréguier is worth a quick visit with its huge cathedral, the beautiful narrow streets and little squares. Perros-Guirec is a charming small seaside resort with a relaxed feel.

The nearby Ploumanac’h is famous for its imposing, pink granite rocks. Lannion is a historic town with pretty houses and small paved streets.

In the region’s south, Quimper has not only a majestic cathedral but also a nice historical district. Plus it has a distinctive Breton Celtic character.

Concarnau is a small walled town, which is nice but very touristy (one of the most visited places in Brittany). As far as I am concerned, I liked the nearby Pont-Aven better, famous for its colony of painters in the 19th century. It is picturesquely nestled on the banks of the Aven river with enchanting alleys in the old town.

Our hotels in Brittany: Castelbrac Dinard, L’Agapa Perros-Guirec & Villa Tri Men Sainte-Marine/Combrit

Now it is about the three (luxury) hotels we had in Brittany, which I regard as the possibly best you can find here. While the first two (Castelbrac and L’Agapa) are five-star establishments, the last (Villa Tri Men) is a four-star. Whereas the guest experience at Castelbrac was as perfect as it gets, this was not so at L’Agapa. Let me be straight, for me this accommodation is no real luxury hotel, it is rather a four-star. And I did not really warm to its vibe, which I found a bit old-fashioned. Hotel Castel Beau Site, a bit more in the west, might be a (better) alternative (built 1928, opened 2020, 28 rooms, 4-star). As to Villa Tri Men, it definitely is a four-star, yet one with an upscale ambiance. Now, to some more details to each of these three lodgings.

Castelbrac Dinard

This was the most upscale hotel of our voyage and also the best overall experience we had! It has a favourable position in Dinard, right on the beachfront promenade.

It was opened in 2015 in a historic building that used to house a museum of natural history. Now, there are 25 guest rooms looking out over the water, many with terraces, just as ours, which was huge (Prestige Room Terrace Sea View, 40 sqm, No. 4, 772€ per night with breakfast & one drink). Their style is refined yet laid-back, with Art Deco features.

Staff did a really good job, and we were served the most lovely breakfast.

Furthermore, you find here a bar, transformed from the museum’s former aquarium, and a Michelin-star restaurant (details follow below). But not enough, Castelbrac also has an outdoor pool, a small chapel and a vintage motorboat for excursions.

L’Agapa Perros-Guirec

As mentioned above, our stay here turned out to be a bit of a deception. The hotel is big for the area, where lodging tends to be small-scale (45 rooms).

It was opened in 2005 with some renovations made in the meantime. We had booked a room in one of the two annexes (Deluxe la Désirade, 45 sqm, No. 72, 384€ per night with breakfast & half a bottle of Champagne). It had a nice sea view and a generous layout, but I found it cheaply built. And it was musty, especially the bathroom, which would otherwise have been quite attractive.

Other facilities included a bar, a Michelin listed restaurant (details see below) and a spa. Breakfast was okay, as was the staff. In favor of L’Agapa must be mentioned that their pricing is reasonable. Plus, they replaced the Champagne in our room daily.

Villa Tri Men Sainte-Marine/Combrit

My husband and I felt comfortable at this elegant 19th century villa overlooking Sainte-Marine’s port. It is most probably the only bigh-end property in the area, especially if you value good reviews.

While the room we had was small and understated (Cottage, 25 sqm, No. 21, 384€ per night with breakfast), it was not a problem for us. Yet none of the 19 rooms at Villa Tri Men are large (opened in 2003, renovated in 2017/18). The bathroom at the cottage was quite spacious. Unfortunately, it had a slight moisture issue, but it was manageable. Plus, we had a nice outdoor area with a river view, as the only one of three cottages in total.

Onsite your find a bar and a Michelin starred dining spot (more info follows). And there is a second restaurant affiliated to the hotel down at the port (Michelin listed, details below). Staff is friendly and helpful, and a good breakfast is served here.

Our best restaurants in Brittany: my ranking

We dined at quite a number of fine-dining restaurants in Brittany on our nine-night stay. I will rank the dining spots we were in descending order of my fondness. And as longer this section goes, the shorter my recounting of the dining experience becomes. Frankly, none of the eateries – all listed in the Michelin guide – disappointed. Some showed weaknesses regarding the service or the concept, yet the food was always good or even excellent.

My No. 1 restaurant in Brittany: Les Trois Rochers Sainte-Marine/Combrit

My absolute favourite in terms of best restaurants in Brittany was the one-Michelin Les Trois Rochers in Sainte-Marine/Combrit near Quimper. Here Frédéric Claquin has been in charge since 2003, awarded a Michelin star since 2016. He celebrates a creative seafood cuisine blended with spices from around the world. The setting is nice, a modernly furnished dining room with picture windows to view the beautiful port scenery.

Three tasting menus are on offer: 3-course 67€ (weekdays only), 4-course 99€ and 6-course 142€. We opted for the whole shebang as we celebrated my birthday. And it was a delectable culinary journey from A to Z, delivered by competent and warm staff.

My No. 2 dining spot in Brittany: La Table de mon Père Perros-Guirec

This Michelin listed place is the hotel restaurant of Castel Beau Site I mentioned above. My husband and I enjoyed a fabulous meal here in a contemporary-chic setting. And this with a stunning view of the St. Guirec Beach.

At work here is Nicolas Le Luyer, a true Breton. He has featured a modern cuisine and has showcased local produce since 2013. On offer at La Table de mon Père is a 3-course menu of the moment for 59€. Furthermore, there are two tasting menus, 4/6 courses for 89/109€. And you can also order à la carte, what we did. As a main course, we had pork filet in unison with local sea snails (42€), which was a delight! The standard of service was pretty good, although not completely faultless.

My No. 3 eatery in Brittany: Éclosion in Quimper

This is an urban gourmet restaurant at its best! Éclosion, awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand, was a real find for us. Not only got we contemporary food with a foreign twist at moderate prices, but also the service was very persuasive. Marion Pelletan is responsible for the dining-room, and this with lots of competence and and passion.

Thibault Le Goff in in charge of the open kitchen. And they have been doing this since early 2023. The menu includes three starters, mains and desserts each, from which you can compose a 3-/4-course menu (38€/45€). The setting is nice, modern and inviting at the same time. A must-do restaurant in case you come to Quimper!

My No. 4 restaurant in Brittany: Pourquoi Pas in Dinard

Pourquoi Pas is the “hotel restaurant” at the five-star Castelbrac. It has been holding a Michelin star since 2019, and this under the lead of  Julien Hennote. He is Breton yet a well travelled one. In the kitchen, he favors local produce and sustainable coastal fishing. You get here a 4-/6-/8-course menu (80/100/120€). On our dinner here, we had a lobster menu. It included six dishes, which were all inventive and well-made, though we found the main special. It was a lobster tail on sausage slices, which we considered a strange pairing. Yet the desserts were fantastic. And we also got a goodie, a financier with algae. This may sound awkward, but it was very tasty! Had it not been for the the somewhat awkward main dish, this dining spot would have topped our ranking of best restaurants in Brittany.

Service was good as was the ambiance at this elegant and stylish dining spot with its wonderful view of the Saint-Malo Bay.

My No. 5 to 8 dining spots in Brittany

Two more Dinard dining spots follow in my ranking of best restaurants in Brittany, both Michelin listed. This is about Ombelle and Didier Méril. While the former is modern and casual,

the latter is traditional and elegant, yet both with sea view.

Whereas Ombelle is reasonably priced, Didier Méril seems rather pricy for the area. Staff at both establishments left a mixed impression. However, the two of them offered quite a good food experience.

No. 7 is Le Bélouga in Perros-Guirec and No. 8 Bistrot du Bac in Sainte-Marine/Combrit, both included in the Michelin guide. The former is a hotel restaurant with a great sea view yet with quite a chilly atmosphere.

The service was so-so, however the food was persuasive (bistronomic and moderately priced, especially on Sunday and Monday).

The latter is a hotel restaurant too, but not your typical one. Instead, it is a real bistro

with fresh and simple seafood dishes (sole was great).

And the setting on a small port is lovely.

Looking back and forth to road trip in North & Central France in style (part I & III)

This very post went into the centerpiece of our North and Central France trip, the Brittany. To summarize, part one (last blogpost) was about our way from Switzerland to the Brittany. It went to the Champagne first, followed by the Normandy. Soon on my blog, you will find part three (the last of this mini-series), highlighting the route we took when returning home from the Brittany. We did so via Cognac, the Dordogne and the Cantal.

Date of stay: September 2024

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The post 19 days on the road in North & Central France in style – PART II Brittany (main destination) first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post 19 days on the road in North & Central France in style – PART II Brittany (main destination) appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

A long held plan came true in late summer 2024, when my husband and I set off on an extended journey through France. Not that we have not travelled our beautiful neighboring country in the recent past, but mostly for a few days only. This time we wanted to do a longer trip to France, and this by car. Its main focus should be the Brittany. As we started from northwestern Switzerland, this meant that we had to build in at least one stopover. And the same is true for the way back. So in the end, a 19-day voyage resulted. Before arriving in the Brittany, we made two stops (Champagne & Normandy). The return way lead via Cognac, the Dordogne and the Cantal/Auvergne. As always when traveling, we kept an eye out for best luxury hotels and (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants worth the money spent on them. Here in this post it is about part one, an outline of the the whole journey and the route to Brittany, leading to the Champagne and Honfleur/Normandy.

Before coming to our 19-day itinerary for North and Central France in style, there is something else. It concerns the sort of content you may expect in this context.

What is next about the North & Central France journey in the time to come?

Actually, I wanted to provide quite a number of blogposts about our extended trip through France’s north and center. And they should follow right after this one outlining our itinerary. I used to to do this on my blog for many voyages in the past. This time, it will be a little bit different. This is because my husband and I already did another longer road trip in the meantime. It went to the Peloponnese and Athens in Greece. So, I want to keep my France travel recount shorter. That means to focus on the essentials such as what to do and where do go for best hotels and restaurants (part one: Champagne & Honfleur). I might pick out one or another topic and dwell on it later. Yet this would be after letting you know about our Greece journey just in the way I do it here for the North and Central France. It makes no sense for me to always fall behind with my trip reporting. And the next voyage is already approaching!

19 days on the road from Switzerland to Brittany and back with several before-and-after stops

It was not the first Brittany trip that my husband and I undertook this late summer. Back in the 90s, we already spent two weeks in the area. So, we decided to leave away most places that we went to at the time. This is true for some of the most visited spots too, Mont-Saint-Michel or Pointe du Raz. Notwithstanding, there are more than enough things to do. Here is my Google Map with our North and Central France itinerary plus all the (luxury) hotels and the Michelin fine-dining restaurants we were:

As mentioned, the journey’s first stop was in the Champagne region where we stayed in Épernay. From here, we continued to Honfleur in Normandy. Next was the first of three stays in Brittany. It took place in Dinard. Perros-Guirec, another town on France’s north coast followed. Then, we moved on to the country’s west coast, to Sainte-Marine/Combrit close to Quimper.

After leaving Brittany, we headed further south to Cognac, where the famous spirit of the same name comes from, a type of brandy made of grapes. The next stop was in the Dordogne (Vitrac), also known under its old name of Périgord. From here, we drove on to the Cantal department, which is located in the heart of France. Here we lodged at Chaudes-Aigues. Originally, we had planned one more stop in the French Jura. Yet we cancelled it at the last moment and directly returned to Switzerland from Cantal, which was quite a stretch to drive.

Now to some information about the individual stops on our North and Central France itinerary. This includes things to do with a couple of walking suggestions. And you learn about where to go for staying and dining in style. As there is quite a lot of material, I need to break my reporting down in three parts. I start in this blogpost with part one, the Champagne and Honfleur/Normandy (best activities, hotels and restaurants). The next one will be about the Brittany and the third part about Cognac, the Dordogne and Cantal.

From place to place in North & Central France, part I, Champagne & Normandy (best activities, hotels & restaurants)

1. Champagne Épernay

About the Champagne

Champagne is undoubtedly France’s most famous fizz, if not the world’s! This wine-making region is on Paris’ northeast side, with the towns of Reims and Épernay often used as a visitors’ base. For sure, you want to visit a Champagne House when being in the area, so book your slot in advance. If the question should arise which one to choose, this is difficult because there are numerous! My husband and I visited the biodynamic Leclerc Briant Champagne House because we stayed at their hotel, a family house in the middle of Épernay (see below).

While Reims is a bigger town (population of about 180,000), Épernay is much smaller (22,000 inhabitants). Both have their charms. Reims boasts a nice old town and a splendid cathedral. The special feature of Épernay is the Avenue de Champagne. It has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2015. Here one Champagner House comes after another. And attached to them are bars and restaurants where you can taste the Houses’ finest cuvées, sometimes paired with culinary delicacies.

Our hotel: Le 25Bis by Leclerc Briant Épernay

For our two-day stay in the Champagne, my husband and I chose Le 25Bis by Leclerc Briant (Champagne House), opened in 2019. With its five rooms only, this former 18th century family home makes for an intimate stay. As it is located on the prestigious Avenue de Champagne, this luxury guest house comes with a Champagne shop and a terrace to try the House’s cuvées.

As to its interiors, it is a mix between old and new. Each room is different from each other. We opted for Room No. 3, which I personally find the best as it overlooks the (quiet) rear of the house with the garden. It is spacious (47 sqm), with a lovely seating area and quite a large bathroom.

And Le 25Bis by Leclerc Briant is a heaven for Champagne lovers! Not only were we treated a small bottle of their exquisite Champagne and cookies in our room, but we also got a glass of it every morning at breakfast! The room rate per night was 425€ (with breakfast), which we found adequate. A delightful little breakfast was included, prepared on site (behind the bar) by friendly staff.

Our restaurants: Bulles & Bonheur and Symbiose, both in Épernay

a) Bulles & Bonheur Épernay

I really wanted to have a dinner with a Champagne pairing and came across the Champagne producer of Élodie D. This is about a female wine growing business in the fourth generation. As to their restaurant, two tasting menus are on offer. The five-course Menu Élodie (wine grower) amounts to 70€ without and to 130€ with the Champagne pairing (5 glasses). Menu Fabrice (her husband), which we had, includes seven courses and costs 110€. Together with the Champagne pairing (five glasses) the total expense is 200€. As to the food, you get here immaculately prepared modern French cuisine, nicely presented, in pleasant surroundings.

Fabrice was present on our dinner and this together with a fifth generation member, the couple’s lovely daughter. She helped out with the service although being only about ten years old. And she did a good job just as the rest of the staff! In terms of Champagne, you get different cuvées of the Champagne Élodie D. and also old vintages of the Champagne Desbordes-Amiaud. We liked both of them, although the latter is a Champagne of a different kind. We found that it almost tasted like a port wine.

b) Symbiose Épernay

Symbiose is a small eatery in Épernay’s town center where Maxine Moret (chef) and his wife Justine (host) are in charge. On offer is a contemporary cuisine (Michelin listed). Although Justine was not present 0n our evening, we felt well cared for on our dinner. The modernly styled dining room feels pleasant.

In terms of food, there are three starters, two mains, cheese and two dessert available. Out of this offer, you can compose two menus (4-/5-course at 54/70€) or order à la carte. Everything we got – we opted for the 4-course version – was great! I liked it that the cuisine was not only modern but also light. Maybe the service was a bit slow-paced, but I think the chef was alone in the kitchen.

2. Honfleur Normandy

About Normandy

Normandy has lots to offer as to things to do. Its most popular attraction is of course the Mont-Saint-Michel Bay – a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979. Although it is overrun by tourists, it is worth visiting. Another must-do is exploring the different landscapes along the Alabaster Coast. There is the GR21 hiking trail running all the way from Le Havre to Le Tréport. Its most beautiful part is probably around Étretat with its beautiful cliffs – unfortunately overtouristed too. And if you are a history buff, the D-day beaches might be your thing.

As my husband and I already visited the Mont-Saint-Michel Bay and Étretat on our first trip to Normandy, we limited ourselves on discovering Honfleur a bit more. We did so by making a hike around Honfleur, here is the link to the track on Outdooractive.

As to Honfleur, we already knew it. Therefore, we expected lots of tourists here. It was exactly like that, but understandable. The historic multi-store houses packed tight to each other around the Vieux Bassin (port) make a beautiful picture.

Yet a few steps further, and you are away from the masses!

Our hotel: Saint-Delis Honfleur 

Our hotel in Honfleur was Hotel Saint-Delis, opened 2020 in a 17th century former family home.

It is located in a beautiful residential neighborhood, very close to the town center.With its nine rooms only, this Relais & Châteaux property is very boutique. The elegantly furnished rooms come with steam showers and overlook a splendid garden.

We had booked a Deluxe Room (31 sqm, 599€ with breakfast per night), yet were upgraded to a Junior Suite (40 sqm). It was a duplex with ample space, which we liked (No 5). And this despite the fact that the A/C was a bit suboptimal.

You find no restaurant on site but there is a bar for hotel guests only. Here you get a lovely breakfast and snacks throughout the day, served by friendly and helpful staff.

Our restaurants: Huître Brûlée & Le Bréard, both in Honfleur

a) Huître Brûlée Honfleur

At the Michelin listed Huître Brûlée you get oysters – as its name suggests! But we chose other items from the small à la carte, which is reasonably priced. The cuisine at this lively, casual place is modern.

And and you get also lighter and healthy choices. At the helm at Huître Brûlée is a younger couple, Paul Lacheray in the kitchen and his partner, Chloé Woestelandt, in the dining room. Even though the staff was busy on our visit, it was cordial. We liked what we had for starters (all around 15€) and mains (from 22 to 30€). Instead of  going for cheese (5€), my husband and I had two desserts (10€ each). Yet the latter was too much, as especially the chocolate dessert was quite heavy (one dessert is probably sufficient).

b) Le Bréard Honfleur

This Michelin dining spot is the more sophisticated choice compared to its above mentioned competitor. What they have in common, is the modern food. Yet the decor here is chicer, the service more polished and the cuisine a touch more refined.

A younger couple is in charge as well, Fabrice Sébire in the kitchen and his wife Karine in the dining room (since 2004). On our evening, we could have a seat outdoors in the lovely courtyard. From the three menus (with options), we chose the middle (3-course menu 45€, 4-course menu 60€, 6-course menu 70€).

The service was professional and attentive. We found that Karine had an open eye for subtleties that others might overlook. And there were no issues with the pricing, which we considered as fair.

Looking forth to road trip in North & Central France in style (part II & III)

That was the first part of a North and Central France trip my husband and I undertook lately. It showcased the itinerary from Switzerland – where we come from – to the Brittany. This is about the Champagne and Honfleur/Normandy, and I go into the best activities, hotels and restaurants here. The Brittany is the main focus of our journey and I deal with it in part two. Part three finally is about the return way, going from the Brittany via Cognac, the Dordogne and the Cantal back to Switzerland.

Date of stay: September 2024

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There is no question that the main draw in Stresa is the visit to the Borromean Islands. Each of them has its own distinctive character and all three are only a quick boat ride away from Stresa. Yet there is more to do around this north Italian town not far from Switzerland. Find in the following some of the best activities around Stresa. Its location on Lake Maggiore, Italy’s second largest, contributes to the diversity of attractions. It is about sightseeing yet also about walking. While Stresa itself is not a large town, there are many more nearby worthwhile to be explored. And you can reach them not only by car but also by train and by boat. The latter due to the fact that most towns are situated directly on the lake.

Unfortunately, my husband and I only stayed four nights in Stresa, which was not nearly long enough to cover all the interesting activities here. So, I will not only report on what we did, but also provide a bucket list for more things to do. If you want to know about the town of Stresa, oozing lots of old-word charm, I wrote a short chapter about in my last post. Now to some of the best activities here. I start with walking/hiking and continue with other things to do.

3 of the best walks/hikes around Stresa

Before coming to three easy to moderate walks/hikes around Stresa, first a recommendation for a leisure stroll in town. As most other lakeside towns in Italy, Stresa features a lungolago. This translates into a lakeside promenade. You could start your passeggiata (afternoon stroll) either southeast or northwest from the town center. I lean towards the first, where you begin southeast from the ferry dock. The journey takes you past a couples of cafes and stately turn-of-the-century buildings. Furthermore, the 2 km (1.3 mi)-long lakeside promenade has lots of statues, fountains and flower beds. And always when gazing out on the lake, there is the beautiful Isola Bella too. To get started, make this easy activity as one of your first in Stresa to get your bearings!

Now to some more serious walks/hikes in the Stresa region. I start with the shortest one and end with one that I have not yet done.

1. Out and back around Villa Taranto in Verbania (easy walk/hike)

Link to track on Outdooractive (only one way – back – without botanical garden – Villa Taranto)

Pallanza – Via Vittorio Veneto – Villa Taranto – Via Vittorio Veneto – Pallanza

Duration: about 2 – 3 hours / Length: about  5.8 km (3.6 mi) / Ascent/Descent: less than 100 m (328 ft)

My husband and I wanted to combine the visit of the Villa Taranto botanical garden with a lakeside walk. So, this is basically another lungolago walk (just as the one mentioned above in Stresa) plus a stroll to criss cross Verbania’s beautiful botanical garden.

Tour description

We decided to start the walk in Verbania’s neighboring town, Pallanza. And we found that this place also has a remarkable historic center by the lake.

While the first part of the walk is along a street with moderate traffic, this is not for long. That is because the street quickly turns into some sort of shared bicycle and footpath with almost no cars around. It is along the lake with the one or other pretty turn-of-the-century building and splendid views over the water.

En route, a short stop at Parco di Villa Giulia

is worthwhile before continuing to Villa Taranto,

the actual destination of the the walk. Here, you can easily spend one to two hours to take in the botanical garden’s highlights. It features 7 km (4.3 mi) of paths with thousands of species of trees and flowers from all over the world. The way back to your starting point in Pallanza is the same you came.

2. Loop around Lake Mergozzo in Verbania (easy to moderate walk/hike)

Link to track on Outdooractive

Montorfano – Mergozzo – Montorfano

Duration: 2 – 3 hours / Length: 8 km (5 mi) – Ascent/Descent: 242 m (794 ft)

Lake Mergozzo is a small but charming lake, 15 minutes by car away from Stresa. It actually was the westernmost part of Lake Maggiore, some centuries ago. Nowadays, it is one of Italy’s cleanest lakes and barred to motorboats. You find here also the pretty town of Mergozzo.

Not only has it a lovely lakeside setting, but also a nice historic center. The tour I am going to describe is a circumnavigation of this lake, as I think one of the best activities around Stresa. And the town of Mergozzo, marking the halfway point, merits a visit by itself.

Tour description

The walk starts at a small beach called Spiaggia La Rustica, which is by the way a really nice bathing place.

Right before reaching it, there is a small number of parking spaces. Alternatively, you can leave your car at the nearby train station of Verbania Pallanza (so you can arrive by train too). The trail first leads through a wooded area

before coming to a campground, which you are allowed to traverse. Once done, there is a short stretch along the main road before you reach a trail up into the wood. Alternatively, you also could continue along the road. In the former case, the trail descends to the main road shortly before Mergozzo. Soon, you reach the town’s lungolago (lakeside promenade).

Be sure to check out this lovely town before taking up your way back to your start.

This time, you walk along an ancient mule track, which is mostly cobblestoned.

Shortly before the end of the walk, you come to an asphalt road. Turn left downhill to reach your starting point. You could also proceed uphill to get a look at Montorfano. This is a peaceful settlement with the remarkable Romanesque church of San Giovanni Battista.

Apparently, there is also a worthwhile viewpoint of Lake Maggiore a bit further up, but we missed it.

3. One way from Stresa to Belgirate via the Chestnut Trail (easy to moderate walk/hike)

Link to track on Outdooractive (not done)

Stresa – Villa Pallavicino – Passera – Belgirate (back by boat or train)

Duration: 2 – 3 hours / Length: 7.8 km (4.8 mi) / Ascent/Descent: 283 m (929 ft)

As I have not done this trail yet I cannot share insights from personal experience. But I saw it mentioned often on the internet, so I concluded it must be worthwhile doing. The Chestnut Trail connects Stresa with Belgirate via an ancient mule track, which is further up the hill. Yet it does not require a steep hike up. The trailhead to this path is even marked on Google Map (Inizio Sentiero dei Castagni Stresa). It is close to Parco Pallvicino (see below). Once arrived in Belgirate you can take the boat or the train to return to Stresa. I will not offer a tour description as I have not walked the trail.

After elaborating on walks in the Stresa area, now to less strenuous activities here.

Some of the best activities around Stresa

I start with a sight in the town of Stresa before going into the most popular thing to do in the area, just off the coast of Stresa. Of course, it is about the Borromean Islands.

1. Parco Pallavicino in Stresa

This is about the Villa Pallavicino, located on the outskirts of Stresa towards Belgirate. I have not been here yet, so the information provided is based on “hearsay”. You need about ten minutes by foot from Stresa’s ferry to reach Parco Pallavicino. The property was purchased by the Pallavicino family back in 1862, who transformed the simple dwelling standing here into a splendid neoclassical-style villa. They did this complete with creating a gorgeous park full of diverse plants and statues. In 1952 finally, Marquise Luisa, began to welcome animals from all over the world. And in 1956, the Pallavicino family transformed their estate into a zoo open to the public.

Nowadays, the park is home to over 50 species of animals, including zebras, wallabies or also native deer. In addition, there are a cafe and playground. The villa however is not open to the public. For sure, visiting Parco Pallavicino is one of the best activities in Stresa when traveling with kids.

2. The Borromean Islands, off the coast of Stresa

About the Borromean Islands

A boat trip to the Borromean Islands is a must-do activity when being in Stresa, also known as the “Eden of Italy”! It is about three idyllic islands: Isola Bella, the most notable, Isola Madre, the most peaceful, and Isola dei Pescatori, the busiest.

It is possible to visit all three islands by boat from Stresa’s ferry in one day. In case you can only go to one of them, choose Isola Bella, the masterpiece of the trio.

If you wish to omit one, I would leave out Isola dei Pescatori.

While they say you find here an old fishing village, unchanged by time, my husband and I judge it differently. We encountered mainly an island with only restaurants and souvenir shops.

About the Borromeo family

Now to what is behind the Borromean Islands. Originally, they were home to the aristocratic Borromeo family. They were merchants in San Miniato near Florence around 1300 and became bankers in Milan after 1370. Between the 14th and 17th century they were able to gain control of an “almost state” in the Valdossola/Lake Maggiore area within the Duchy of Milan. This “Borromeo’s State” ended in 1797 with Napoleon Bonaparte’s invasion. However, the family could keep their ample estates, one of them the Borromean Islands. And they still own the majority of them (Bella and Madre).

How to visit the Borromean Islands

When it comes to how to visit the Borromean Islands, I would suggest using Navigazione del Lago Maggiore (NLM), the official Italian state owned company. This because their boats run frequently and this also into the afternoon. Usually, in shoulder and high season, you have to wait not more than half an hour until a boat arrives (on a hop-on hop-off basis). You can buy tickets online or onsite inside the ferry building, either right before your trip or earlier (we bought them the previous day).

My favorite Borromeon Islands, Isola Bella & Isola Madre

Now some short words to Isola Bella and Isola Madre, my two favorites among the Borromean Islands. The former draws more people than the latter. And I already knew if from an earlier visit quite some years ago, undertaken from Ascona/Switzerland, which was quite a trip.

By no doubt, Isola Bella is the chef d’oeuvre of this trio.

There are a palace and a garden (one entrance fee for both) brought together in the form of an imaginary ship (Palazzo Borromeo). Originally, Isola Bella – named after Isabella, countess Borromeo – mostly was an empty rock. Vast quantities of soil were brought in to build a system of ten terraces for the garden. The unfinished building displays paintings and tapestries.

Isola Madre, the largest of the three islands, is also noted for its gardens.

They are kept as an English-style botanic garden with lots of rare plants and exotic flowers.

Yet the (uninhabited) palace is quite a sight too. It is beautifully decorated with 16th to 19th century Italian masterpieces and paintings.

After going into Stresa’s main sights, there is much more to do a bit further away.

3. Verbania with Villa Taranto and Villa Giulia

Verbania is the largest town on the lake and from what I heard – I have not been to the town center – not overrun by tourists.

As all the other lakeside towns on Lake Maggiore, it has its lungolago (lakeside promenade). Plus, there are the botanical garden of Villa Taranto and the country house of Villa Giulia (see above walk No 1). While the former persuades with its 3,000 plants from all over the world (villa is closed to the public), the latter can be visited on the occasion of exhibitions and other events.

4. Town hopping from Stresa

Apart from Verbania there are more towns you should not miss, so town hopping from Stresa is a recommended activity when staying here. And many can be reached both by boat and train. Unfortunately, my husband and I had only time to visit one of these places worthwhile seeing. It is about Sesto Calende,

where we stopped on our transfer from Alba to Stresa. It is right at the bottom of the lake, a pretty town where Lake Maggiore becomes the river Ticino. Not only boasts it an attractive historic center but there are also great lidos and lots of opportunities to walk along the water.

Further up the lake in the direction of Stresa, you come across Arona. It seems to be a quaint medieval town. You find here the bronze statue of Saint Carlo Borromeo (see above section about the Borromeo family), overlooking the town. Saint Carlo was the patriarch of the Borromeo presence in the area.

Right across the lake is Rocca di Angera, the Borromeo family’s imposing fortress. It is an impressive accumulation of five different constructions, built between the 11th and 17 the centuries. It is home of the 12-room Museo della Bambola with the Borromeo family’s collection of dolls. Plus, you can visit the vineyards that surround the fortress.

Another impressive sight is Santa Caterina del Sasso, a monastery located less than half an hour by car north from Rocca di Angera. The three buildings from the 13th and 14th centuries cling spectacularly to the steep rocky precipice. If you come by car, you either climb down more than 200 steps or use the lift (for a fee). When arriving by boat, you have to ascend 80 steps from the ferry quai.

Looking back at my Piedmont mini-series

This very post about what to do around Stresa is the last of seven posts concerning a Piedmont trip that my husband and I recently undertook. Before, I wrote about the best (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants around this town on the Lake Maggiore in the Piedmont’s north. And the first blogpost gave details to the top luxury accommodation in this area close to Switzerland, Boutique Hotel Stresa.

I covered exactly the same three topics for another Piedmont region further south, the wine region around Alba (where to stay and dine in style and what to do). All this was introduced by a 11-day Piedmont itinerary that included not only the area around Alba and Stresa but also two stopovers. One of those was in Caluso, north of Turin, the other in the Swiss west.

Date of stay: July 2024

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The Langhe region around Alba is one of the Piedmont’s most beautiful areas. It is worthwhile going to not only when being into wine and truffles but also when you like beautiful landscapes. Think in this context of delicate rolling hills covered with vineyards and dotted with picturesque villages. There is a bunch of activities to do in the Langhe. This region is ideal if you want to do some walking in the vines and/or village hopping. Some of the most stunning small towns in Italy can be found here. And if you plan it wisely, you even can combine these two things. But be advised, some walking up and down is almost always part of the program. Yet I think that I have found some really great tours that are not too strenuous. Truth to be told, I myself am not exactly a “mountain goat”.

Before I go into the activities, a few lines to the Langhe.

Langhe, Piedmont’s most stunning wine region

Chances are good that you know the Piedmont, one of 20 regions in Italy. It is located in the country’s northwest and is famous for its quality wine. As to the Langhe, it is one of the Piedmont’s sub regions around Alba. You find here a hilly landscape full of vineyards, situated a bit more to the Piedmont’s southwest.

The Langhe has been on the UNESCO’s World Heritage List since 2014. This together with Roero and Monferrato and because of their cultural landscape. They got this honor owing to their wine growing tradition, which also has an aesthetic value. That makes the Langhe such a splendid place to go for travelers who appreciate this kind of rural settings. And they grow some of the best Italy’s here, think in this context of Barolo or Barbaresco.

My husband and I have been to the Langhe twice in three years. While we lodged in Alba’s east last time, we chose its south instead on our recent stay. And both areas are gorgeous, although the latter even more so, in my opinion. Maybe also check out my post at the time about things to do more in Alba’s east. I informed on two easy walks, two stunning villages and a memorable truffle hunt. One of the villages I wrote about at this point of time – Monforte d’Alba – will also be a topic in the current post.

In terms of activities in the Langhe, I start with three easy to moderate walks before going into some of the most beautiful villages in the area.

3 of the best loop walks/hikes in the Langhe

I already mentioned it, you cannot entirely avoid going up and down when walking in the Langhe. But after some research, I think I have found three walks/hikes that are doable for persons with a decent physical fitness. I will indicate the difficulty level  of all tours. And as I have tracked all of them on Outdooractive, you can navigate them on this hiking app with my correspondent links.

1. Loop around Monforte d’Alba (moderate to difficult walk/hike)

Link to track on Outdooractive

Monforte d’Alba – Serralunga d’Alba – Perno – Monforte d’Alba

Duration: 3 – 4 hours / Length: 13.9 km (8.6 mi) / Ascent/Descent: 534 m (1,752 ft)

This is my favorite among all the tours I have ever done in the Langhe. This because of all the beautiful views you have most of the time when doing this activity. In addition, Serralunga d’Alba is a lovely village well worth exploring (see below under 5 of the most beautiful villages in the Langhe). Plus, we were practically on our own the whole tour (no other hikers around).

Tour description

The walk starts in Monforte d’Alba, and this in the town center. From here you walk to the top of the old town, around Castello di Monforte – Palazzo Scarampi. This village is one of Italy’s most beautiful ones, according to I Borghi più belli d’Italy (The most beautiful Villages in Italy). If you want to know more about it, I have provided some information in an earlier post. And I also included this place in the chapter about beautiful villages further below.

Not long after leaving the village, you already can enjoy beautiful views of vineyards. And far away, you catch sight of the first village you are going to reach, Serralunga d’Alba.

But first you have to manage the first of two descents – it goes down 300 m (984 ft). And try not to think of the fact that you have to climb up this difference in altitude later on.

Before you ascend towards Serralunga d’Alba, you cross a hazelnut orchard.

And once arrived in this village, make a rest and explore this stunning place.

Then continue in the direction of Perno.

In case you have enough force and time left for some more village discovering, go ahead – we did not. Instead we tackled the ascent towards Monforte d’Alba. It is less steep than the ascent at the start, yet you need some more time to do it.

2. Loop around Barolo (easy walk)

Link to track on Outdooractive

Duration: 1¾ – 2  hours / Length: 6.9 km (4.3 mi) / Ascent/Descent: 202 m (656 ft)

After exploring the gorgeous village of Barolo in the Langhe, an easy walk in its vineyards is a nice activity to do as well.

Tour description

Barolo also belongs to the above mentioned most beautiful villages in Italy. So, you absolutely should roam about it before taking off to your tour.

Right in the town center you follow a street that brings you to the village’s vineyards. The first part of the trail is a bit above the main road, yet most time leading through the vineyards. While you can hear the traffic noise, it was not too bad on our walk (not too busy).

Roughly half way there, you cross the main road. Now you are in for the more remote part of the trail, leading back to Barolo. Shortly before reaching this village again, there is quite a steep descent towards the town center.

3. Loop around Treiso (moderate walk)

Link to track on Outdooractive

Duration: 2 – 2½ hours / Length: 7.3 km (4.5 mi) / Ascent/Descent: 308m (1,011 ft)

This walk is not in Alba’s south as all the other activities/places I am going into this post. Instead it is on the east side of this regional capital. While it is also a Langhe wine region, it is a bit less hilly and less memorable as the one from the before mentioned walks.

Tour description

You begin the walk in Treiso’s town center.

First, you descend through a vineyard and then along a creek in a forested area. Before coming to a hamlet, you move towards the opposite hill where you make an ascent.

Once done, you continue along the ridge back in the direction of Treiso.

Just before reaching the village again, you can either follow the vineyard trail or the main road (Via Alba). We did the former. While this was pleasant at the beginning, shortly before Treiso we had to climb a very steep “path” (not really one) through the vineyards. And this was rather a pain to do. So, think twice before following our example!

Now it is about village hopping in Alba’s south.

6 of the most beautiful villages in the Langhe

I have already mentioned the I Borghi più belli di’Italia, the association of the most beautiful villages in Italy. It was founded in 2002 within the ANCI Tourism Council. This with the aim of promoting the country’s great heritage in terms of history, art, culture and landscapes. And this as far as villages are concerned. At the moment, the Piedmont has 18 villages that made it into this list.

So far in this post, I brought up two such villages. On the one hand, this was Monforte d’Alba (for more details refer to a past post on the Langhe). On the other hand, I named Barolo. In the post I just mentioned I went into a third one too, Neive (here are the specifics about it). Yet, on our trip we encountered three more gorgeous small towns in the Langhe which are not part of this association. I previously wrote about Serralunga d’Alba. And I have two more, La Morra and Montelupo Albese. So, there are many activities related to village hopping in the Langhe.

Now to the villages in question. All of them are in Alba’s south with the exception of Neive.

1. Monforte d’Alba (part of I Borghi più belli di’Italia)

As you have learnt by now, I previously went into Monforte d’Alba (my post). So, find here only one short remark to it. Do no miss walking up from the main piazza (Umberto I) to the old town’s highest point, the Piazza Antica Chiesa. This is really a rewarding thing to do!

2. Barolo (part of I Borghi più belli di’Italia)

When getting to this medieval village on a cloudy day in early summer, my husband and I thought that it was astonishingly uncrowded. Make your way along Barolo’s cobblestone lanes toward the ancient castle. It used to be a defensive fortress and later on a country home for the wealthy Falletti family. Today it houses the Barolo Wine Museum. Maybe also visit an enoteca for a wine tasting. After all, the Barolo wine is the most esteemed of all Italian wines!

3. Neive (part of I Borghi più belli di’Italia)

Neive is in Alba’s northeast, about 15 minutes by car north of Treiso (see above, loop No. 3). As this village was the topic of another post just as Monforte d’Alba, only one small note on it. The best thing to do here is to walk from its south gate (San Rocco) to the one in the north (San Sebastiano).

4. Serralunga d’Alba

Serralunga d’Alba, which we discovered while doing above described walk No. 1, is a sleepy village. You find here medieval streets extending from a slim brick castle with tall watchtowers. It was never used for military purposes but instead was owned by the Falletti family – as the one in Barolo. You can visit it on certain days, check it out in advance in case you are interested (Castello di Serralunga d’Alba).

Otherwise just wander the streets, drink in the fantastic views you have from here of the surrounding landscape and maybe taste some wine.

5. La Morra

La Morra is the place to go to get an overview of the region. And this is because this village is atop a ridge. From Piazza Castello, the town’s main square, you have truly fabulous views of the area. The panorama stretches from vineyard-striped valleys to faraway villages and – weather permitting – snow-capped Alps.

Yet also stroll along the streets of the pretty old town. And of course, a visit to a wine shop is also possible here.

6. Montelupo Albese

This handsome village is far off the beaten tourist paths. And my husband and I only landed here because of its proximity to the hotel we stayed (Hotel Casa di Langa). It is something like the little sister of La Morra as it is also perched on a crest. Its views are also impressive, yet not that expansive and not of the known wine villages but of Alba.

What I liked here was the quietude of this village, which probably does not draw many visitors. All the better, so you have the picturesque medieval streets to yourself. An interesting fact here is also the project “Lupus in Fabula”. As the name of the village means wolf mountain, Montelupo Albese has invited artists from all over Italy to tell all the fairy tales about wolves through murals.

Looking back and forward

My mini series about a Piedmont journey has two parts. One is about the Langhe wine region around Alba, the second concerns Stresa on the Lake Maggiore, in the north near Switzerland. In this last post of part one informed about things to do near Alba. Before, I already went into (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants and a luxury hotel in the area. The start of my Piemont reporting made a 11-day itinerary of the whole trip – three stops in the Piedmont and one in the Swiss west.

In the time to come, you will find the same for part two of the voyage in Stresa (best luxury hotel, best fine-dining restaurants and what to do). You will learn about where to stay and dine in style as well as what to do in and around this town on the Lake Maggiore, especially if you like walking.

Date of stay: July 2024

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The Engadine is without doubt one of the country’s most desirable vacation destination in the Alps. You find here – especially in the upper part – not only a breathtaking mountain panorama but also a lake landscape that leaves you in awe. You might have also heard of Saint Moritz, the most known town here. While it is no particular beauty, it is a glamorous and fashionable place, especially in wintertime. Then the rich and beautiful meet here. But that was not what drew my husband and me to this high Alpine valley. Instead, we were looking for some of the best winter walks that the Upper Engadine has to offer. And we succeeded! So I am now in the position to propose two great winter walks to you.

General

The Engadine is long, with lots of small towns along the route. You distinguish between the Upper and the Lower Engadine. The latter begins in Brail coming from Saint Moritz. It is narrower and without the big lakes of the Upper Engadine. I am talking here only about the Upper Engadine. Some bits of information about the Lower Engadine can be found in a former post of mine.

My husband and I stayed at different places in the past, mainly in the Upper Engadine. Our destination for winter vacations in the last two years was Zuoz, a marvelous historic village. Here we resided at the four-class superior Hotel Castell (see my post).

Not long ago, we also spent some time in Brail, in summer. This is the first village in the Lower Engadine after leaving the Upper Engadine. At the time, we chose Switzerland’s smallest five-star hotel for a short stay, IN LAIN Hotel Cadonau (my post). Quite some time ago, my husband and I also were in Pontresina where we lodged at the five-star Grand Hotel Kronenhof (see my review).

But most of times when heading to the Engadine, we opted for Sils Maria, a placid small town not far from Saint Moritz. And we did so in summer and winter. As to the hotel of our choice, it was always the grand old dame of the Waldhaus, towering high above Sils Maria amidst a larch forest. This was not any different on our recent Engadine stay. If you are looking for understated and relaxed luxury, then this five-star hotel is your best bet in the area. It has been family owned and managed since 1908, and it has been regularly updated over time. Check out my last post, where I went into this wonderful hotel in greater depth. In case you do not want to read everything, open the contents section and click only at the paragraphs you are interested in.

2 top winter walks around Sils Maria/Engadine

As mentioned, the Engadine is large, and you could easily find winter walks in the area that would keep you busy for weeks if not months. My husband and I wanted to do winter walks starting right from Hotel Waldhaus Sils Maria, where we were staying.

And there is quite a choice in this respect. We opted for two classics, albeit both a bit in a varied version. The first went into the splendid Fex Valley (Val Fex), the second along Lake Sils to Maloja and further to a small mountain lake. And these two trails are among the nicest ones we have ever done when it comes to winter walking! Here are the details.

1. Winter walk Engadine: Fex Valley (Val Fex) round trip including out to Alp Muot Selvas & back

based on 2 tours: Fex Valley round trip (out: Sils Maria – Hotel Waldhaus – Fex Crasta / back: Fex Crasta – canyon path – Sils Maria) & Sils to Fex Valley (from Fex Crasta out & back) / 7.4 km (4.6 mi) out to Alp Muot Selvas from Hotel Waldhaus, 294 m (965 ft) up, 72 m (236 ft) down, about a 4-hour walk in total

The walk starts either in Sils Maria’s center or at Hotel Waldhaus (if you should be a guest here). This hotel is ideally located right at the beginning of the Fex Valley (Val Fex).  When having passed the hotel, turn right from the tarmac road as soon as you have the chance. Then the trail leads along Lake Sils, high above on a hill – with great views of this –

for a while. It may be not so easy to find your way as there is a variety of paths amidst a beautiful larch forest. Just make sure that you do not walk down hill towards the lake. That is how it should work.

After some time, the path turns left and once you have crossed a tarmac road – and having left the forest behind you – you can be sure to be on your way.

Later on, there is a signpost for a viewpoint (Muotto da Güvè). My husband and did not do this as the weather was not good enough. Instead we went on towards Fex Crasta, a hamlet. Up to this point, follow the first tour (Fex Valley round trip, see above). From here, change to the other one (Sils to Fex Valley, see above).

Either make a short stop to have a look at the hamlet of Fex Crasta – do not miss the church –

or continue your way to Alp Muot Selvas, at the back of the Lex Valley. When doing the latter, you can enjoy great views of this Alpine valley along the route.

In our case, the weather got better and better, and so the vistas that constantly came at us! When having reached Fex Mountain Hotel & Restaurant, go further. After crossing the Fedacla river, the trail ascends a bit. After a while, you catch sight of the Alp Muot Selves,

an ideal place for a rest

before heading back. Up to here, we needed two and a quarter of an hour.

On your return way, walk until you get to Fex Crasta again. From here, you change to the other walk (Fex Valley round trip) and make your way back to Sils Maria’s center via the Schluchtweg (canyon path)

passing Fex Platta.

My husband and I got back to Hotel Waldhaus after a four-hour walk.

2. Winter walk Engadine: lakeside path along Lake Sils to Maloja & out to Lake Cavloc & back to Maloja

map of the area / Sils Maria – Maloja – Lake Cavloc – Maloja – bus to Sils Maria /10.5 km (6.5 mi) out to Alp da Cavloc from Hotel Waldhaus, 235 m (771 ft)  up, 168 m (551 ft) down, about a 3 3/4 -hour walk in total

Either start your walk from Sils Maria’s center or from Hotel Waldhaus (as we did). You can choose among two trails to Maloja. If Lake Sils is completely frozen, you can walk across the lake (6 km/3.7 mi). On our stay, this was not possible, so we took the lakeside path (7 km/4.3 mi). Along Lake Sils, you have great views of lake and mountains.

About half way to Maloja, you get to the pretty hamlet of Isola.

After about one hour and three quarters you reach the town of Maloja.

When reaching the town’s outskirts, you catch sight of a magnificent building right away. It is the Maloja Palace.

At one time in the past, it was one of the biggest and most modern hotels worldwide. Nowadays, only a small part of it is still used as a hotel. At this point, you have to decide whether to go to town for a pit stop first (a good address for this is Hotel Restaurant Schweizerhaus) or whether to immediately tackle the second part of your walk. In the first case, head towards the main road. In the latter case, go in the direction of the cemetery (Cimitero Maloja). From here, there is a trail signposted to Lake Cavloc (Lägh da Cavloc).

Allow about one hour to reach this picturesque mountain lake. First, you walk through a Maloja neighborhood before coming to a beginner’s ski lift.

Go further, pass the Salecina Vacation Center and cross the Orlegna river. Afterwards, there is a path crossing. Turn right into a wide path

that brings you up to Lake Cavloc through a forested area. Alternatively, turn left into a steep trail that merges with the wider path at some point (we did the latter on the way up and the former on the way down).

Once arrived at Lake Cavloc, my husband and I walked further alongside the lake, which is a nice thing to do. At a beautiful spot, there is Restaurant Cavloccio (closed in winter).

We continued until Alp da Cavloc

before returning to Maloja.

From here, you can take the bus (Maloja, Posta) to get back to Sils Maria. In total, we needed three hours and three quarters to finish the whole walk.

Date of visit: February 2023

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Paris is my favorite city in the world, and it certainly is the one I have visited most so far. My husband and I even used to live here for a longer period of time, albeit not together. He worked in Paris for a year. After returning, he got me an apartment for my five-month language course from the same landlady he had. And that was the beginning of our Paris’ love. Since this very moment, we have been going to this city on a regular basis. Our last visit dates from January 2020, and so my husband thought it was time to return. Therefore, he booked another stay here, a surprise for my birthday! To my delight, he chose a new luxury hotel located at my favorite square in town, Place des Vosges. And this was Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris.

And I went on the search for great Michelin (starred) restaurants in the area!

Before letting you know details about how it is staying in style at one of most magical spots in the French capital, a few lines about two other related topics. On the one hand, I want to inform you how Paris has been changing in recent years. On the other hand, you might be interested to learn what to do as a repeat visitor to this city. And this especially if you like walking. As to recommendations for great gourmet dining spots near our hotel of choice, they follow in my next post …

How has Paris changed in recent years?

As I have pointed out above, Paris has been a fixed thing on my travel agenda for many decades. Every few years, my husband and I return to it. And so, I think we have developed quite a good feeling how the city has changed over time. As many other popular destinations, Paris has become more crowded with time. Consequently, we had to find ways how to avoid tourists. We mainly do this by not doing the main sights respectively only “touching them” briefly. This is easy if you like walking. In this case, you can leave the masses of tourists behind you. More to this in the next section, before going into details how it is staying at Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris.

Another thing that has become apparent in later years is that Parisians have turned more and more into some sort of “Anglophiles”. English is now an everyday language in the French capital, and this not only in the tourist industry. It has become increasingly difficult to talk to locals in French, even you have a proper command of this language, as my husband has – I have a bit less so. They may start in French, but often in course of the conversation they change to English, sooner rather than later. And this in a city where their residents would not dream of talking to you in another language than French not so long ago!

A last point worthy of note is the fact that you find fewer cars and much more bikes in the inner city nowadays. While many travelers might welcome this development, it does not have good sides only. First of all, you do not hear them coming. Second, you find bike lanes in many one way streets, and this in the reverse direction. Third, too many cyclists think that they do not have to follow traffic rules, in fact almost all. In consequence, you as pedestrian have to be extremely alert when crossing a street or leaving shortly the sidewalk to pass other people. 

After this short anecdotes to Paris, now how to proceed if you want to avoid the hordes of tourists here.

What to do in Paris as a repeat visitor especially if you like walking?

The solution I am going to propose to you only works if you have already done the major sights here and if you are an avid walker. Hike Paris! For this purpose, buy the possibly best trail guide of Paris, the FFRP TopoGuide Paris … à pied! It is produced by the Fédération Française de la Randonnée Pédestre, the French Hiking Association.

This excellent guide lists three crossings through the French capital. The first goes from west to east (Bois de Boulogne

to Bois de Vincennes), the second from north to south (Parc de la Villette

to Parc de Monsouris). And the third stretches from west to east, crescent shaped and only on the right bank of the Seine (Porte Maillot to Porte Dorée, passing by the Montmartre hill).

These trails mostly follow scenic routes yet without neglecting the big sights. The guide contains detailed maps, pathfinding instructions and a wealth of history, culture and sometimes also wildlife information about the various sections of the trail. Short, it is perfect for your Paris hike!

Unfortunately, the FFRP TopoGuide Paris … à pied is only available in French! But also people with little fluency in French can learn to use it, with just a bit of effort.

My husband and I did all the crossings, at least once. However, we always left away the one or other section. But this does not reduce the pleasure! On our recent stay, we did the second crossing again. One one day, we started in the north and ended in the city center, in the Marais

where we stayed. On the other day, we began in the south and hiked all the way to the Seine and to our hotel on the Place des Vosges. What a great way to experience this city and its variety of neighborhoods! And just in case you should be interested, it took us about four hours to finish these two half trails (what would mean about eight hours for the whole crossing).

But now to where to go for staying in style in Paris. And this at Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris, right by the city’s most beautiful square, Place des Vosges.

Hotel Cour de Vosges Paris, luxury boutique hotel with view of Place des Vosges

Prices of luxury hotels in Paris have been skyrocketing in recent years. While we were able to stay at one of the top accommodations in town just as Le Meurice in 2004, this is no longer an option for us. And this is due to rates that we consider as exaggerated. If you opt for the least expensive room here mid-week in shoulder season you have to spend 1,700€ per night!

As a consequence, we usually go for smaller, not that known and recently renovated four to five star establishments, when looking for lodging in Paris. And this time, my husband indeed had a lucky hand when it comes to finding the perfect gem for a short stay in the French capital. He came across the fabulous Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris that was opened in fall 2019!

If you wonder which location to choose for a hotel in Paris, also check out an earlier post of mine.

Location of Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris

Staying at Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris is all about location! While this accommodation does have lots of other assets, its situation on the glorious Place des Vosges is the most outstanding one! This square in the Marais neighborhood in the city’s fourth Arrondissement is not only Paris’ oldest one (inaugurated in 1612) but certainly also one of its most beautiful.

Strolling under the arcades of the lining mansions

or along the paths of the central garden is such a wonderful thing to do.

The square was built on order of King Henry IV. He had decided that all the pavilions surrounding it should be identical, with two exceptions. Now there are 36 of them, built of brick and stone with high, blue slate roofs. One of them, precisely number 19, is the home of Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris.

Ambiance/Staff at Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris

When standing in front of the hotel, you hardly notice that it is one. At first glance, Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris just looks like its 35 ochre-red siblings. On closer inspection, you notice a sign and a heavy door, wedged between a modernist patisserie

and a traditional brasserie. When entering the 17th-century townhouse, you feel like being in a private home, albeit one with an impressive art collection. There is no reception, just a cabinet containing a computer and room keys.

Staff is very accommodative and kind. They seem to employ lots of predominantly young people working part-time. But you get everything from them you need. Yet this is no hotel for people who need pampering and lots of guiding. There are almost no public spaces onsite. You can have your breakfast in the courtyard behind the street door.

Or you can go to the adjoining patisserie that is part of the hotel for this purpose. By the way, you might have noticed the somewhat unfavorable Google reviews of this hotel. Do not be overly impressed by them as they mostly concern this tearoom, which offers rather pricey pastries.

Rooms/Pricing

As this is a 17th-century townhouse, it is constructed in the typical way of this period. There are four floors (plus the ground floor). The second floor (the so-called Bel Étage) is the one with the highest ceiling. You find here the rooms where guests were hosted at the time. As higher as you go in the building, the lower are the ceilings and the more modest are the rooms. At the top, on the fourth floor, you find the former maids’ quarters.

They kept this traditional room pattern at Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris. At the bottom, you find the Deluxe and Superior Suites, a bit higher the Junior Suites, followed by the Deluxe Rooms. And finally, at the top, there are the Superior Rooms. Prices (room only) start for Superior Rooms (26 sqm) at 750€, for Deluxe Rooms (31 sqm) at 890€, for Junior Suites (31 sqm) at 1,100€, for Superior Suites (40 sqm) at 1,300€ and for Deluxe Suites (55 sqm) at 1,400€. We had opted for a Deluxe Room, find details about it in the following.

Deluxe Room: our choice of room at Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris

As you may have noticed in the section before, staying in style at the Places des Vosges Paris has its price. However, I think that the rates can be justified. There is this mesmerizing view of Place des Vosges that you can enjoy from each room. It intrigues you from the moment the first rays of sun fall on the roofs and facades until the shadows grow longer.

The higher up you go in the building, the more the panorama expands. From the third floor, where my husband and I were, your gaze leads above the top of the linden and horse chestnut trees in the garden, which I found just perfect.

On the other hand, I found the room spacious enough and the decor ravishing!

I loved everything here, from the enormous four-poster bed, the seating area around the former fireplace, the table by the window and the generous bathroom with its stand-alone wash basin and tub. A plus was also the separate toilet with wash basin in an antique style.

Each room is unique. But in all of them you find art books stacked high and crystal decanters with whisky and vodka on vintage bar carts for self-service. In terms of materials and colors, steel and terracotta floors go hand in hand with light brown wallpaper and blue seat cushions. For me, the room’s character was harmonic yet at the same time contrasty.

The one thing that might be disadvantageous is the fact that there is only one small window. As we enjoyed sunny weather all the time, this was no issue to us. But I can imagine that this is different in case of a foggy day. If you care for more light, opt for a room on a lower floor where the windows are much larger.

Services/Other facilities at Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris

I already mentioned where you can have breakfast. Another option would be having it in your room. My husband and I chose to take it on the tearoom’s terrace (there is no in-room dining) every morning. It is a branch of the Brach-La Patisserie

serving sweet treats by pastry chef Yann Brys, who was named Meuilleur Ouvrier de France (best craftsman in France). And the croissants and pains au chocolat are truly excellent. But all the rest was convincing too, served from silverware by mostly pleasant staff.

Apart from the tearoom, which closes in the evening, there is no other spot for having something to drink or eat. But this should be no problem as there are lots of bars and restaurants nearby. And if you crave a drink, there is whisky and vodka in your room,

accompanied by all sorts of non-alcoholic beverages in the well-stocked fridge. There is no nicer thing to do than sipping a drink and contemplating this wonderful square at your feet!

As to your wellness, you can have massages in your room and/or you can use the Roman bath downstairs.

We did not get to trying out the latter, yet it looked tempting.

What is next

After all this info on staying in style at Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris, you will soon learn on my blog where to head for Michelin starred dining in the French capital. Come back later to receive all the details! Also check out my last post about Paris from January 2020 where I informed about three top restaurants, two walks and my two favorite squares! One of the latter ones is of course the before mentioned Place des Vosges. And as to the dining spots mentioned in this blogpost, all three still receive good reviews yet the stars among them are Restaurant Alliance (still has a Michelin star) and Restaurant Contraste (got a Michelin star at the latest awards)!

Date of stay: September 2022

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Mallorca, the most visited of the Balearic Islands near the eastern coast of the Iberian Peninsula, must make important decisions as to its excessive tourism. Are the local government’s small corrections of recent years enough to bring about a change of course? Here is how this small island has become one of Europe’s major tourist destinations. And find out what has been done to curb excesses originated by this development.

Before coming to Mallorca’s tourism – that has run amok – , some facts about this vacation destination, which my husband and I had chosen for this year’s spring vacation. And this for the first time ever! After doing so, further posts will be about topics I usually write about, staying and dining in style. First, I will outline our trip’s itinerary, before providing details for every stop in Mallorca (overview, southwest, north, northeast and Palma de Mallorca).

About Mallorca

Mallorca is one of the Mediterranean most desirable vacation destinations. Since 1983, it has been – together with the rest of the Balearic Islands – an autonomous region of Spain. This island enjoys a mild climate with lots of sunshine (annual average of 2,850 hours) and has an average temperature of 18°C/64°F. The tourist season is concentrated from May to October.

While most tourists come for sun, sand and sea,

the island offers something in terms of nature and culture too. Think of the Tramuntana mountains, a protected natural area that was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2011.

Or there is a myriad of places worth experiencing. In this context you have to mention the capital of Palma

or the small towns of Sóller

and Pollença.

And Mallorca is within easy reach of many European countries. In many cases you need no more than two and a half hours by plane to get to it. In addition, there are many (cheap) flights to choose from.

From mass tourism to a more sustainable one?

Tourism development

Spain is one of Europe’s main tourism regions, and Mallorca is its flagship. In the Balearic Islands, where Mallorca is the most important one, the tourism is the “main industry”. 85% of its gross domestic product (GDP) stems from it. And 80% of tourists to this island are international, mainly from Germany and the U.K. (Balearic Island Regional Context Survey).

Since the 1950s, Mallorca has become a major tourist destination. As to the number of visitors per year, there were 3 million in the 1970s, 6 million in 2013, 10 million in 2017 and 12 million in 2019 (Wikipedia/National Geographic). And this with Mallorca’s population of under one million! Of course, this rapid growth caused damages in various areas.

Consequences of the unrestricted tourism growth

Before coming to the effects of Mallorca’s growing popularity among tourists, first to how it all began. Long before overtourism was a problem for cities just as Venice or Barcelona, Mallorca and other Balearic Islands were already known for an out-of-control development of the touristic activities. There is even a specific term for it, the balearización.

Back in the 1950s, Spain’s fascist regime thought that tourism might be an ideal source of revenue. So, they virtually invented European beach tourism. Around Palma, high-rises were erected to attract budget travelers in high numbers. Soon the cruise tourism followed. In such a way, visitors flooded Mallorca in the summer months.

Not before long, the economic blessing of the mass tourism turned into a tremendous burden. For half a century, Mallorca was a symbol of a mass tourism gone mad. Some places such as Magaluf and El Arenal became bywords for debauchery and bad behavior of young vacationers coming to the island looking for a good time.

Of course, Mallorca’s tabloid infamy damaged the island’s image. This not only in the international context, but also among locals. The term for the latter is turismòfobia. Along with this tourist saturation there were more issues: abusive consumption of resources, excessive dependance on tourism, road congestion or rise in prices of rentals and property.

Measures against overtourism

There has been a switch in attitudes on Mallorca for several years now. The local government seeks to make the island’s tourism more sustainable. This to recast its image as a travel destination. A sustainable tourism tax was introduced in 2016. This in order to raise funds for protecting the natural environment, recovering the historic heritage and developing infrastructures to foster slow tourism.

As to the cruise tourism, Mallorca’a officials have recently decided to limit arrivals as from 2023. From this point of time, there shall be no more than three vessels a day at Palma’s port. And only one of them is allowed to be a mega-cruise liner with more than 5,000 passengers. This is supposed to attain a 13% drop in arrivals, compared with 2019.

As far as the drink related problems in popular resorts are concerned, new laws were introduced for certain tourist zones. They do not only ban the sale of alcohol from 9.30 p.m. to 8 a.m., but also forbid all-in-one packages, happy hours, two-for-one drinks and pub crawls. Furthermore, it is illegal to advertise party boats in designated areas. All this in the hope to clear out the drunks and trade partiers for more well-behaved tourists.

Will the transformation into a sustainable tourism be achieved?

Mass tourism has troubled Mallorca for decades. Yet this development did not simply happen, but it was deliberate choice. And therefore, another direction is possible too. However, it will be no easy task. While the post-pandemic period is suitable for making a hard cut, it is also a time where many in the travel industry have empty coffers.

First steps towards a more sustainable tourism have been made, more have to follow. A more upmarket tourism will not immediately bring in the big money. Going through a dry spell seems inevitable. But there are not many who want the pre-pandemic tourism back, which was overwhelming in all respects. Instead, they wish for travelers swapping coastal mega resorts for seeking out natural landscapes and local culture. They want such ones who also spend money on upscale hotels and gourmet restaurants. And vacationers who not only come in July and August but also in the shoulder seasons. And in fact, a transformation seems underway. Quite a number of traverlers yearning for slow and sustainable travel already find their way to Mallorca.

What is next on this blog?

As mentioned at the beginning, there will be more about Mallorca on this blog. I spent a bit more than two weeks on this island in the first half of April, to get to know a destination that was new to me. And I was not only delighted by the island’s natural wonders and man-made attractions but also by its top-tier hotels and fine dining restaurants. While I will not report on the former, I will inform about the latter, and this in quite a few details. My husband and I checked out four luxury accommodations (overview, southwest, north, northeast and Palma de Mallorca) and some of the best gourmet dining-spots in Mallorca. I cannot wait to let you know about them.

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