Now it is to the details of a two-week Taiwan itinerary. My last post was about a one-week travel plan comprising the island’s north. If you have two weeks at your disposal, then you can also travel Taiwan’s south. Plus, you have the option to build in one more stay in the north. Such a travel plan allows you to take your time and to explore sights in the respective surroundings too. Again, I only included stops that ensure travel in style. That means places where you find options for staying at luxury hotels and dining at (Michelin) gourmet restaurants. Yet – as always – , I only considered establishments offering value for money.

There are six stops in total. Compared to the one-week itinerary that I described in my last post, there are three more. Two are in the south (Kenting National Park and Kaohsiung), one is in the north (a second Taipei stay). Find in the following my Google Map of a 17-day road trip in Taiwan that my husband and I did. It can be shortened to 14 days without any problems:

Overview on my Google Map of our 17-day Taiwan itinerary

As you could see, we started and ended the journey in Taipei with four stops in-between. The first stop was on the Island’s northeast, at the Taroko Gorge near the seaside town of Hualien. Then we traveled inland to Sun Moon Lake in the foothills of the Central Mountain Range. We continued towards south to the Kenting National Park. And before returning to Taipei, we had our one and only stay in a big city apart from Taipei, and this in Kaohsiung.

As I already went into the first three stops in my mentioned one-week travel plan, you find in this post about a two-week Taiwan itinerary only explanations to the last three ones (Kenting National Park, Kaohsiung and north Taipei). Again, I start with a short description of the respective town/region. Then I let you know what to do here in a few sentences. Finally, I go briefly into each of the high-end hotels we stayed and the (Michelin) fine dining spots we ate.

A 17-day Taiwan round trip with six stops in style

See details to stop 1 – 3 here

4. Kenting National Park (south, 2 nights)

About

The Kenting National Park occupies the entire southern tip of the country. And while Kenting is said to have the best beaches in Taiwan, they are subpar to those of typical beach destinations. Nonetheless, the area boasts a lovely coastal scenery and is well worth a full-day exploring.

Things to do here include: walk in the Sheding Natural Park with its huge coral rocks (volunteers guide you around if you wish), Sail “Nixon” Rock, Taiwan’s southernmost point, Longpan Park (great coastal views)

and Hengchun (old city wall with four ancient gates,

Old Street

with Patisserie Ce Moment).

Hotel: Gloria Manor

This is yet another property that has a connection to the former president Chiang Kai-shek. It used to be one of his presidential guesthouses. And this is easy to understand in light of the picturesque mountain and sea scenery you find here. The hotel is remotely located inside the Kenting National Forest Recreation Area, surrounded by tropical greenery.

Gloria Manor took over the site in 2012. The building convinces with minimalistic design that blends nicely into the natural setting. You find here 60 rooms in a range of categories. Yet it does have to be one with a sea view as this is probably the main attraction of staying here.

Breakfasts are excellent, you can make your choice out of several ones served on a tray.

And you can have it also in the pleasant outdoor area. Mu is the only restaurant on site, find some details below.

Restaurants: Mu Restaurant (at Hotel Gloria Manor)

At Gloria Manor’s Mu Restaurant you get excellent Taiwan cuisine with a modern twist. And the place strictly adheres to the principle “not in season, not on the menu”. The setting is relaxed yet still with an upscale touch. My husband and I dined here on both evenings and liked what we got. Good choices from the à la carte menu were Wonton Soup, Crab Omelet, Fried Rice with Pineapple & Dolphinfish, Mango Pomelo Sago or Baked Pudding.

There is also a set menu (1,680 TWD / 47 SFR/US$).

5. Kaohsiung (south, 3 nights)

About

Kaohsiung is Taiwan’s third most populous city and is home to the island’s largest port. While it long used to be an industrial city, it has been reorienting itself toward tourism as well as art and culture since since the turn of the millennium. This shows in the vast Pier-2 Art Center where former shipping warehouses were turned into shops and cafés. And there are museums, art installations and street art. I for one liked the dynamic vibe of Kaohsiung!

As to more classic sights here, the scenic Lotus Pond in the north of the city is an good place to go. It is known for its 20 temples or so along the shoreline and nearby.

And there is the Confucius Temple too. Another big name attraction in the area is the Fo Guang Shan Monastery, outside of town, which is the largest in all of Taiwan and quite a sight.

Last but not least, we used Kaohsiung for a day trip to Tainan. This is Taiwan’s original capital and still retains a traditional vibe. Go to the city center first (Confucius Temple, Hayashi Departement Store, Snail Alley & Shennong Street, two quaint streets;

then proceed to the Anping District (Anping Fort, Anping Old Street, Anping Treehouse).

Hotel: Silks Club

Silks Club is one kind of a cool, urban hotel, attracting business and leisure travelers alike. It is located in the emerging neighborhood of Qianzhen, opened in 2017. Already the sleek lobby with the reflecting pool of water impresses.

And it continues when it comes to the rooms. The 147 units have an average size of 66 sqm, floor-to-ceiling windows and oversized bathrooms.

The place for breakfast is In Jade Lounge – you get it on a tray plus there is small buffet, and it is a tasty affair.

You can also come here for drinks in the evening. The restaurant, a branch of the Japanese Ukai Tei, is divided into several sub-spots (Teppanyaki, Kaiseki & Grill). Find more info on the former below.

Restaurants: Ukai-tei Teppanyaki (at Silks Club), Marc L³ & Sho

For our Kaohsiung food adventures, my husband and I chose three Michelin dining spots. One even has a Michelin star (Sho), two are on the 50Best Discovery list (Sho & Marc L³).

I start with the “hotel restaurant”, Ukai-tea Teppanyki, where they serve a Wagyu menu (Rump 4,800 TWD, Sirloin 5,800 TWD, Tenderloin 6,500 TWD). We opted for the Sirloin (161 SFR/US$) and could witness quality ingredients being cooked on the iron plate right before our eyes. And we even had a chef who exclusively cooked for the two of us! That was quite an experience, especially when it was up to the preparation of the abalone (from live to death).

Our favorite dinner in Kaoshiung and probably on our whole Taiwan trip was the one at Marc L³. The three L’s stand for Live x Liberal x Limitless. Reservations here are difficult to get, and we had to pay our meal in advance (which was not a no-brainer to arrange). Yet, once seated at the counter (9 seats only), we were in for culinary magic! Unique French fare was prepared in front of us, and this as eight-course menu (3,960 TWD / 112 SFR/US$) in a relaxed ambiance.

And the chef is such a nice guy too, communicative, approachable and amiable! What a great evening we had here!

Dining at Sho, an outpost of the Tokyo famed Den Restaurant, was a epicurean highlight as well. We were treated to an exquisite Japanese meal with creative touches. Quite in contrast to Marc L³, it took place in a somewhat chilly ambiance. The place – a counter with 14 seats – had an almost clinical appearance. Notwithstanding that, we truly enjoyed the tasting menu (3,500 TWD + rice upgrade 700 TWD / 119 SFR/US$). And if you are wondering about the rice upgrade, go for it! It is a traditional rice dish cooked in an iron pot called a kama, once with Wagyu and the other time with scallops.

6. Taipei (Beitou District, north of the center, 3 nights)

About

Our second stay in Tapei was in Beitou, the capital’s most northern district. While it is not too far away from Taipei’s center (half an hour by MRT), it has a less urban feel. The hilly area is known for its hot springs and is close to beautiful nature.

We had planned to explore Taiwan’s north from Beitou. Yet we only managed to do one such day trip because of not so good weather. And this was to Jiufen,

a seaside town in the lush mountains northeast of Taipei (book a Taiwan tea time at Jiufen Artist Teahouse, expensive yet worthwhile;

escape the crowds by hiking the Jinguashi Aqueduct Trail). We left out the second one to Yangmingshan National Park on Taipei’s northern fringe. Instead, we headed to central Taipei once again, to the University District. And it was lively, even on a Sunday. And do not miss the sights in Beitou: Thermal Valley, Puji Temple,

Beitou Library, Xinbeitou Historic Station.

Hotel: Grand View Resort Beitou

While Beitou is not the first address for first timers to Taipei seeking to explore the city to the fullest, it was ideal for our purposes. Having already done the capital’s major sights, we longed for a quiet place to spend our last few days in Taiwan. Staying here is the best of both worlds: being in relative proximity to Taipei’s center and at the same surrounded by nature.

Grand View Resort Beitou is the most luxurious among the many hot-spring hotels that make use of the sulfurous hot-spring water that bubbles from the ground. The relatively large and modern property (opened in 2011) stands high on a slope with beautiful views of Beitou and beyond.

All the 66 guest rooms are spacious and come with hot-spring bathrooms, allowing a private soaking experience. I think the accommodations could use a little touch up, especially the wet area (the moisture from the hot springs does not help).

Breakfasts are really good here, served on a tray. And they even offered another variety on our third day. There are three restaurants, from which we tried out two (we did not eat at Aqua Deck with light continental food). Find more details in the next section.

Restaurants: Chinese Cuisine & C’est Bon (both at Hotel Grand View Resort)

We had dinner every evening at Hotel Grand View Resort Beitou. As I had read good things about the Chinese Cuisine – it is Michelin listed – , we went there twice.

One evening, we tried out the French place, C’est Bon.

While both offered fine food, we found C’est Bon better. We had a lovely dinner here indulging in immaculately prepared French food with a Taiwanese twist. Out of the four set menus, we ordered the one with Boston Lobster (3,080 TWD / 87 SFR/USD$), and we relished it.

As to the Chinese place, we had a not so good dining experience on our first evening. Whereas the food was good (we had opted for à la carte), service and setting were less so. Everything was better on our second dinner – we had the Vegetarian Set Menu (2,280 TWD / 64 SFR/US$). Yet C’est Bon has our love!

Looking back and ahead on my Taiwan journey

The start made some considerations to bear in mind when planning a (luxury) Taiwan trip (my post), followed by a proposal for one-week itinerary here. This is actually the first part of the journey my husband and I did on this island. It includes the three major travel highlights in this country, Taipei, Taroko Gorge and Sun Moon Lake. As luxury traveler and  fine dining lover, I also give recommendations as to where to stay and dine in style. In addition, I go into what to do in all theses places, plus some ideas for side trips. In this very post, you get the same thing, yet for the second part of our trip. Taken together, you have info on our original 17-day itinerary (that you can shorten to a 2-week Taiwan itinerary). Next on my blog, you will find out about my personal hotel and restaurant highlights in Taiwan in some more details.

Date of stay: April 2024

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The post Taiwan in style, a 2-week road trip itinerary appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

While my last post went into general considerations to make when planning a Taiwan trip, this one is about a concrete one-week itinerary. When my husband and I toured beautiful Formosa – as it was called by its discoverers – , we actually had 17 days at our disposal (for the whole island). Yet, you can shorten the journey to one week (north only). This still allows you to see the island’s three major highlights – Taipei, Taroko Gorge and Sun Moon Lake. And my one-week proposal is about a Taiwan trip in style, meaning staying in luxury hotels and dining in (Michelin) gourmet restaurants (if available).

Before coming to the details of the three individual stops, here my Google Map of this one-week Taiwan trip.

Overview on my Google Map of a 1-week Taiwan itinerary

No Taiwan trip is complete without exploring its capital of Taipei. While I put it as first destination on my Google Map, you can of course also do it at the end of the journey. The second stop is on the Island’s northeast, at the Taroko Gorge near the seaside town of Hualien. Then you travel inland to Sun Moon Lake in the foothills of the Central Mountain Range before returning to Taipei.

I start with a short description of the respective place. Then I let you know what to do here in a few sentences. Last but not least, I go briefly into a high-end hotel and some nearby (Michelin) fine dining spots.

A 1-week Taiwan round trip with three stops in style

1. Taipei (Songshan District, near the city center, 3 nights)

About

Taipei is a must for every Taiwan traveler. You find here a fascinating mix of Chinese, Japanese, indigenous and western influences. And although it is a deeply urban place, nature is never too far away. So, it is the ideal starting and/or ending point for your island exploring.

When it comes to activities, Taipei 101 for a view of the city and the Elephant Mountain for a view of Taipei 101 are musts for first timers to Taipei. Also the political Taipei around the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall has to be on every traveler’s agenda.

Further things to do are the Dihua Old Street,

The Dalongdong Baoan Temple

and the nearby Confucius Temple.

Hotel: Mandarin Oriental Taipei

Before setting off on our Taiwan round trip, we lodged at the Mandarin Oriental in the Songshan District. This business district (financial industry) is an okay location for exploring Taipei, however not the most ideal one. Most sights are in the following districts: Zhongzheng, Wanhua, Datong, Xinyi and Da’an. And Songshan is slightly too far north and east compared to the before mentioned ones. Yet, you are close to a MRT station and once on the subway, you get everywhere quickly enough.

As to the hotel, it is opulent indeed. While being a newly built complex (opened in 2014 together with THE ARCADE, a shopping center), it is reminiscent of Medieval European architecture in an eclectic style.

The 303 guest rooms are more spacious than at its competitors. They are classically furnished with contemporary touches and boast generous marbled bathrooms.

And you get a fabulous breakfast at Café Un Deux Trois, a modern buffet style restaurant. Service is as excellent as you might expect it with this prestigious hotel group. And rates are affordable enough, in contrast to many other MO hotels in Europe.

Restaurants: Holt & Hosu

UPDATE: Restaurant Holt’s website is no longer available

We did not have dinner at Mandarin Oriental Taipei – except some small bites in the M.O. Bar after a late arrival on our first day in Taiwan (which were good).

Instead we had decided on two Michelin listed restaurants in the adjacent neighborhood.

Holt is a one-star Michelin restaurant offering exquisite contemporary European food. On our evening, they still served creations by Canadian chef Jeffery Downs, although he had already left for good in the direction of his home country. We were told that they are now in a rebranding process.

The tasting menu we got (3,980 TWD / 112 SFR/US$) was one of the trip’s highlight food wise delivering very high quality.

While Holt was really great yet very European, we were keen on trying food prepared in a more Taiwanese way. So, we had opted for Hosu, a modern Taiwanese dining spot, which is Michelin listed. And we were delighted by this cute little place whose name means “Good Island”. They served a tasting menu (2,880 TWD / 81 SFR/US$) that surprised at every turn.

2. Taroko Gorge (northeast, 2-3 days)

Currently largely closed due to earthquake in April 2024!

About

Taroko Gorge is one of Taiwan’s top scenic attractions. It is a steep valley created by the Liwu river and makes part of the Taroko National Park. The first 18 km/11 mi of Highway 8, coming from Taiwan’s east coast, are what is known as Taroko Gorge. The thing to do here are hikes of various lengths. Usually one full day is enough to get quite a good insight. My husband and I stayed three nights here, and this right inside the gorge.

As to actual things to do, be advised that usually one or more sights or trails are closed (it is a geologically active site). So, check what is open before you go. We did the following activities (on one full day): Swallow Grotto (short walk), Buluowan Suspension Bridge (crossing the bridge only), Eternal Spring Shrine Trial (closed, you could only walk to the first Shrine), Baiyang Trail to Water Curtain Cave (we did not go in, one and a half hour),

Lushui Trail (only a short part, closed after Small Cave).

The second day, we made a day trip to the Hualien area and a bit more in the south direction. It lead us along the east coast to Qixingtan Beach, Qizingtan (quaint seaside town), Baqi Viewpoint (nice),

Jiqi Beach, Fengbin Skywalk (closed) and Xin She Rice Terraces. Then we returned inland via the towns of Guangfu, Fenglin and Shoufeng. Here we made a side trip to Liyu Lake before going back to the Taroko Gorge.

Hotel: Silks Place Taroko

Closed until mid 2024 due to earthquake in April 2024!

As announced, the hotel is located within the Taroko Gorge. Precisely, it is in Tianxiang, a small village at the top of the gorge, about one hour from Hualien City. If you value the best possible situation for exploring the Taroko Gorge, then you are right here. The property used to be an official government guest house under the regime of president Chiang Kai-shek. In 2010, it opened after a renovation as Silks Place Taroko.

While the hotel’s exteriors are not necessarily a feast for the eyes, its interiors are nice, kept in a contemporary style. The 160 rooms are split over two floors, the Retreat Floor and Resort Floor. The former are more luxurious and offer access to the top floor Retreat Lounge where complimentary snacks and drinks are served all day.

As a Retreat Floor guest, you can have breakfast at either the Wellesley Buffet or the Retreat Lounge (served on a tray). For dinner, you can choose between the mentioned Wellesley Buffet or the Chinese Restaurant. Details to both of them follow in the next section.

Restaurants: Mei Yuan & Wellesley Buffet (both at Hotel Silks Place Resort)

As to the food at Hotel Silks Place Taroko, it was not the best we experienced on our Taiwan trip yet still decent enough. We had opted to be on half board and had to choose where we wanted to have dinner twice. As we do not like buffet restaurants, we went to the Chinese restaurant Mei Yuan on two evenings. And we had Shabu Shabu Hot Pot both times, yet we did not mind. This because it was prepared with good quality ingredients (which are boiled in a pot with soup in front of you).

When it comes to the Wellesley Buffet, we were quite a bit underwhelmed by the experience. Again, the quality of food was high and there was a wide range of culinary options. And the staff ensured that the buffet was kept immaculately.

Yet, it was like being in a bee house, with guests buzzing around and voices overlapping in every direction. It was not like something I expected from a five-star property.

3. Sun Moon Lake (center, 2-3 days)

About

Sun Moon Lake, at the foothills of the Central Mountain Range, is the island’s largest body of water. It is at an altitude of 762 m/2,500 ft and a hugely popular destination. And it is indeed a beautiful scenic view.

There are two lakeside towns, Shuishe village (more touristy) and Ita Thao (home of the Thao aboriginal tribe).

If you wonder what to do here, you can go boating, hiking, cycling and stand-up paddle boarding. However, swimming is not allowed (except at the annual mass swim). As to sights, visit the Wenwu Temple (view from the grounds above it towards the lake is splendid),

walk up to Ci En Pagoda (climb up to the top of it for the view) and go to the Antique Assam Tea Farm (self-guided tour, café & shop).

In case you have two full days in Sun Moon Lake as we had, consider a day trip to the Alishan High Mountain tea fields. Here Taiwan’s most famous tea (Oolong) grows. A good place to spend  a day is the small mountain village of Shizhuo. You can make the most beautiful hikes on the Shizhuo Trails System,

buy tea at the Lin Yuan Tea Factory (oldest tea grower in the area) and make a side trip to another village, Fenqihu (old street).

Hotel: The Lalu Sun Moon Lake

This is yet a former official government guest house of president Chiang Kai-shek. After extensive renovations, it was opened as a luxury hotel in 2002. And this is quite a property! It occupies a peninsula next to the Shuishe village. The hotel spans three buildings that blend harmoniously with the surrounding forested hillside. You have fantastic lake views from almost everywhere at the hotel. It is of a timeless Zen-like design.

All the 96 rooms except some stand-alone villas face the lake

and are exceptionally roomy.

Breakfast is served in the Oriental Brasserie and consists of a huge buffet with a diverse food offer, although it is not so geared towards western tastes. In terms of dining, five restaurants are at your disposal, although some only cater for room guests and member. Find out more about how it is dining at their two flagship dining-spots below.

Restaurants: The Lake View Chinese Restaurant, The Japanese Restaurant (both at The Lala) & KEN CAN by Ken Chan (at Hotel Fleur de Chine)

Both, the Lake View Chinese Restaurant and The Japanese Restaurant, were not as good as I had hoped for. While both offered good food, other aspects were not that satisfying. As far as the Chinese place (à la carte) is concerned, neither the banquet hall-like setting nor the service – we were poorly advised – were persuasive.

However, the Japanese spot (set menu at 3,600 TWD / 101 SFR/US$ with U.S. beef fillet) has an attractive setting (no view). When it comes to service, it was not much better than its Chinese counterpart (not many explanations to the food).

The good news in the Sun Moon Lake area is that there is an excellent gourmet restaurant around at the competitor hotel of Fleur de Chine. It is about KEN CAN by Ken Chan.

It is the second spot of this three-star Michelin chef at Hotel Palais de Chine in Taipei. If you are a foodie and have only one evening in the area, then dine here! We were delighted by the creative Cantonese set menu (3,980 TWD / 112 SFR/US$) as well as the courteous and informative service.

Looking back and ahead on my Taiwan journey

While this post went into a one-week itinerary of a Taiwan trip in style, the next is dedicated to a two-week one. Whereas the former only goes to the island’s north – yet covers the country’s three major highlights – , the second brings you to whole Taiwan. This longer journey has the same stops as the before mentioned Taiwan one-week itinerary plus three more. I started my reporting on this island with some considerations to make when planning a luxury trip to this island (my post). Two more blogposts to follow will highlight my personal highlights in terms of high-end lodging and (Michelin) fine dining restaurants.

Date of stay: April 2024

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The post Taiwan in style, a 1-week road trip itinerary first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Taiwan in style, a 1-week road trip itinerary appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

My husband and I have just returned from another bucket list trip – a round trip in Taiwan! You never know how long this is going to be possible – for a very specific reason. But this is not about politics. Rather, it is about seeing the sights. And this was in our case exploring the country in style. This meant for Taiwan that we went for the best luxury hotels and fine (Michelin) dining, yet always with a look at the price tag. It is our premise not to pay excessive prices, wherever we go. When it comes to the question whether Taiwan is worth traveling to, I can say yes without reservation. Not for nothing it was called Ilha Formosa (beautiful island) by its first discoverers, the Portuguese. Yet there are some considerations make when planning a (luxury) Taiwan trip.

The end result of all this pondering is supposed to be the perfect itinerary (one-week/two-week itinerary) for your personal needs. We come to mine at the end of this post. Yet it is just a quick look at it, details about the different stops follow soon on my blog. First, I go into some general facts about Taiwan that may be of interest for travelers. In further posts to follow, you will find out about my personal Taiwan lodging and dining highlights.

About Taiwan

The bits of information on Taiwan I am going to write about are far from being exhaustive. If you should be interested in more and detailed travel advice about this travel destination, I found Nick Kembel’s websites especially helpful. This Canadian – married to a Taiwanese woman and having two kids with her – lived 15 years in Taiwan (meanwhile he has moved with his family to his home town). Nick Kembel is really very thorough in his reporting about his adopted country. I can assure you that hardly a question about Taiwan in the context of travel will be unanswered. His two sites are called Spiritual Travels and Taiwan Obsessed. Whenever I had a question while preparing our Taiwan trip, I Googled “Nick Kembel” together with the issue I was wondering about. And no, I do not know why he has two websites and not one.

1. Geography of Taiwan

Location/Population

Taiwan, officially the Republic of China (ROC), is an island nation in East Asia. There are conflicting views about whether it is a Southeast or Northeast country. It lies in the Pacific Ocean off the southeastern coast of China, from which it is separated by the Taiwan Strait. Other neighbors are Japan in the north and the Philippines in the south. Taiwan is 35,980 km²/13,892 mile² in size, which makes it a bit smaller than Switzerland (41.290 km²/15,942 mile²). It has around 23.9 million inhabitants, which is a lot more than Switzerland has (8.8 million). Therefore, it is one of the more densely populated nations. And most of the Taiwanese live in the island’s west, where one big city follows another.

Climate/Travel time

Taiwan has a subtropical climate and is very mountainous. It boasts almost 300 mountain peaks over 3,000 m (9.800 ft). There is the Central Mountain Range that runs down the middle of the island like a spine. The best times to come here are either in fall (October and November) or in spring (April). This both due to the weather situation as well as the crowds.

Tectonic situation/Earthquakes

The island is geologically active, sitting on the Ring of Fire. Because of the complex tectonic situation, there are lots of hot springs in Taiwan, but also earthquakes. The most recent one with a high death toll was in 1999 (island-wide, 2,415 deaths, 7.7 M_w). And the most recent major earthquake was the one on the 3rd of April 2024 (Hualien, 18 deaths, 7.4 M_w ). And this was precisely, when my husband and I visited Taiwan! It was at 8 a.m. and lasted for more than a minute. At the time, we happened to be on the 25th story of a hotel high-rise in Kaohsiung, where we felt it moderately strong (the building swayed back and forth). Yet one week before, we were at the very spot where most of the deaths happened (Taroko Gorge). And we had stayed at exact the hotel where hundreds of guests were trapped for several days!

2. Political situation in Taiwan

History in brief

Taiwan is considered as the freest and most democratic country in Asia. While The People’s Republic of China (PRC, short China) claims that Taiwan is Chinese territory, The Republic of China (ROC, a.k.a. Taiwan) thinks otherwise. It sees itself as independent. After the ROC lost in the Civil War (1945-49) to the Chinese Communist Party, its leaders and millions of people fled to Taiwan. From there they planned to take back China, what evidently never happened. Notwithstanding that, Taiwan is still officially called the Republic of China.

Before the ROC arrived in Taiwan, the Japanese occupied it (from 1895 to 1945). After Japan surrendered in World War II, Taiwan was restored to the Republic of China. Japan influenced Taiwan significantly. It built a railway around the country, developed the hot springs and constructed lots of buildings. Also the Japanese cuisine left their traces. The UN stopped recognizing the ROC as the legitimate rulers of Taiwan in 1971, the US followed in 1979. Currently, Taiwan is only officially recognized by 11 countries, most of them smaller ones.

Language/Communication

Taiwan has four official languages, Taiwanese, Mandarin, Hakka (Han Chinese) and the Formosan aboriginal languages (collectively). Although English is not an official language, there is a discussion about Taiwan becoming a “Chinese-English bilingual country” by 2030. Yet, many Taiwanese doubt that this will become true. Most Taiwanese in the major cities know at least some English. The further you go from the metropolitan areas, the less it is spoken. Yet, Taiwanese are open and friendly, and there is always the option to use Google Translate in order to communicate with them.

3. How to get around in Taiwan

Taipei: MRT/Uber

Getting around in Taipei is a breeze thanks to the MRT system. For doing so, you buy and load an EasyCard in any station or convenience store. You can also catch an Uber driver for short distances, as there are many available in Taipei and other big cities. Yet, you also find them in other touristy places in the countryside. We used this service for example in the Sun Moon Lake area when dining out.

Train/Buses

Taiwan’s train system is generally considered modern and convenient enough, although not comparable to the one in Japan. There are far more options to go up and down the island than across. This is because of the Central Mountain Range that divides the island into a western and eastern part. If you plan to travel all over the country, you have to use a mix of train, high-speed rail and bus.

As already mentioned, the Japanese built a railway around the country, which is still running today. It is administered by the TRA (Taiwan Railway Administration). From Taipei to Kaohsiung and all the cities between, you have the additional choice of the High Speed Rail (HSR). It is much faster (and more expensive) than the TRA. However, besides Taipei, their stations are inconveniently located outside of the city center. And it only exists on the island’s west side. For destinations in the Central Mountain Range, i.e. Alishan or Sun Moon Lake, you need to take buses to reach them.

Rental car

As my husband and I traveled all over Taiwan, we had opted for renting a car and driving ourselves. While driving in Taipei is no walk in the park, it is doable in other places. Generally in big cities, you have to be careful because of the many scooters (they have sometimes their own lanes and their own way to turning left at major intersections). If you are driving in the mountains, there are many winding and narrow roads. However, they are well secured with mirrors that show oncoming traffic.

After these more basic facts about Taiwan, now to possible itineraries in Taiwan.

Taiwan 1- to 2-week itineraries

General itinerary considerations when planning a Taiwan trip

As it is a 15-hour flight from Western Europe to Taiwan, it makes sense to spend 14 days here. This if you have a single destination trip in mind. And no worries, Taiwan has so much to do that you can easily spend two weeks here. Alternatively, you can combine a one-week stay on this island with a stopover, depending on your flight arrangements. In our case, we flew via Bangkok/Thailand on the flight to Taiwan and via Hong Kong on our return, although we did not do any layovers. Another option would be adding a short flight from Taiwan to your itinerary. Obvious choices would be Japan, especially Okinawa, or the Philippines. This might be a good idea in particular if you are keen on beach vacations. Taiwan is not really famous for being a destination geared to sun, sand and sea.

Having said that, I would like to emphasize again that there is plenty to see in Taiwan. So, there is absolutely no need to limit your time on this island to only one week! Taiwan is an extremely pleasant travel destination. While it is not exactly inexpensive, it is affordable enough. Public transport is good, and people are amicable. There is a stable political situation (apart from the danger coming from the powerful neighbor across the Taiwan Strait). And you find here a generally high level of safety. Plus, you will not run into Western tourists all the time. Last but not least, it offers the perfect mix of vibrant urban life and lots of natural beauty. The latter you even encounter very close to Taipei.

A 2-week itinerary in general

Two weeks is considered a reasonable amount of time to do a full circle around Taiwan. And this is – I mentioned it before – possible by train. When having this round trip in mind, you have two options: doing it nature-focused or city/culture-focused. As to the former, you spend more time on the island’s east and south. Concerning the latter, you stay longer on Taiwan’s west side. In case you decide on a nature focus you also should head to the mountains, which are in the center stretching from north to south. As there are only some regional trail lines in this area, you also must use buses to get there.

This reveals that opting for the train as your means of transport is ideal for a city/culture focus. It is less so if you want to concentrate on nature. Here it makes sense to consider traveling by rental car. If you do not trust yourself to do this, then there is the possibility to hire a private driver and maybe also a private tour guide (check out Nick Kembel’s advice on this).

If you want to do a luxury trip – meaning staying in luxury hotels and dining in gourmet (Michelin) restaurants – , this complicates the affair even more. While there is usually no problem finding correspondent establishments on Taiwan’s west side, this is not so on the east side. One exception here is the Taroko Gorge. But if you travel from here toward the south in the direction of Taitung, you will encounter difficulties finding suitable lodging and dining. As far as the island’s center is concerned, places to stay and dine in style apart from the Sun Moon Lake area are rare.

Our 17-day itinerary in style

After all these general considerations when making a travel plan for a Taiwan trip, now to our actual itinerary. While we were on route during 17 days, you can shorten the trip to two weeks without any problems. We wanted our journey to be predominantly nature-focused yet with the one or other urban stay. As we like to travel in style, our aim was staying in luxury hotels (my 3 hotel highlights) and dining in gourmet (Michelin) restaurants. And this is not always possible in Taiwan, as outlined. In terms of means of transport, we had opted for a rental car. This because it seemed more convenient to reach all the places we wanted to go.

So, we began in Taipei before heading to the Taroko Gorge in the northeast close to Hualien. We also made a day trip along the east coast going a bit further south from this seaside town. Then we went to the country’s center, to Sun Moon Lake. From here, we explored the wider Alishan region in another day trip too. After that, we drove in the south, the Kenting National Park, before heading back north. This time we traveled along the west coast. Our only stop here was in Kaohsiung, from where we also visited the old city of Tainan. Our last stop was Taipei again, where we had chosen its northernmost district of Beitou as our base. We used it to discover Taiwan’s north as well.

Find here my Google Map of our 17-day road trip journey in Taiwan:

A proposition for a 1-week Taiwan itinerary

There is also the option to make this trip shorter, from two weeks to one. And you can do this by traveling only the northern part of Taiwan. In such a way, you can experience the country’s three major highlights. These are Taipei, Taroko Gorge and Sun Moon Lake. My next post will be about this abbreviated Taiwan itinerary. In addition, you will learn more about the three individual stops. This includes what to see and do, a top hotel on site and some of the best (Michelin) fine dining available.

In another post to follow, I will go into the two-week itinerary. There will be information about the other three stops that are not part of the abbreviated Taiwan travel plan. These especially concern Taiwan’s south, but also a second Taipei stay. This is not the end about my Taiwan reporting yet. Two more blogposts will offer more details about my personal highlights with respect to accommodation and eating out.

Date of stay: April 2024

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Buthan, the mystic kingdom in the Himalayas, is something very special. You will not find another like it! After sharing a travel guide with you in my last post, here is the perfect Bhutan 9-day itinerary how to explore the otherworldly Land of the Thunder Dragon. The journey goes to Buthan’s heartland, the four valleys of Paro, Thimphu, Punakha and Phobjikha. This is the west of the country that most of the travelers see. And this for good reason. It is home to the only international airport, the capital and has a great density of sights.

Before going into details about the places my husband and I visited, here is an overview on all my blogposts about Bhutan.

My mini series about Bhutan travel

As mentioned at the beginning, I already did a travel guide with all the essentials to know when planning to come to Bhutan. As to what will follow, there it is.

In my next post, I will outline how to travel the suggested itinerary via an arrangement by a luxury hotel. There are three international high-end hotel groups that operate in Druk Yul – that is how the locals call their home land. And I want to compare these three. Then I will provide information about traveling Bhutan with our choice of hotel. To end this mini series about the Land of the Thunder Dragon, I will inform about possible pre- and post-Bhutan stays. This because it is usually not possible to fly in directly from more distant countries.

Now to our perfect Bhutan 9-day itinerary.

My Google Map of a Bhutan 9-day itinerary

You find the Bhutan travel plan my husband and I followed in the form of a Google Map. It includes all the (luxury) hotels we stayed, a recommended restaurant we ate (there is only one as we had a full board package) and the things we did. One tip: to experience Bhutan at its most authentic, it is a good idea to throw in a few lesser visited sites and walks/hikes! As to the nature of attractions – the terminology – check out my travel guide.

In case you wonder about other things to do in west Bhutan than mentioned in my Bhutan 9-day itinerary, there are many more. Yet my husband and I had decided that we wanted to explore the four valleys by walking as much as possible. This is supposed to be the royal road to fully immerse into Druk Yul. Because that is what the locals do all the time, at least in the rural regions outside of Paro and Thimphu. I mentioned it in the description of the individual sights in case we walked/hiked to them.

From place to place in west Bhutan, a perfect 9-day itinerary

To begin, a short overview on our 9-night trip. We started and ended with two days in Paro each. The first stay consisted of general sightseeing, the second one was dedicated to the hike to the Tiger’s Nest. Next was the Punakha Valley, where we spent three days in subtropical surroundings. Before our return to Paro, we had two more days in the Phobjikha Valley. Here we delved even deeper into the country’s rural landscapes.

1. Paro Valley 2,200m/7,200ft (day 1&2, day 8&9), 1st & 4th stop Bhutan 9-day itinerary

This is where every visitor arriving by air starts his or her Bhutan journey. The charming town of Paro with a population of about 50,000 lies on the bank of the Paro river. From the impressive Paro Dzong

it is not far to its main street, only built in 1985. It is lined with colorful wooden buildings that all look more or less the same.

1.1. General sightseeing

1.1.1 Paro Dzong

One of the major sights here is the before mentioned Paro Dzong. It sits atop a hill, in a commanding position, overlooking the entire valley. It was constructed in the 17th century and is also called Rinpung Dzong, fortress of the jewel hill.

When my husband and I arrived in Paro at the beginning of April 2023, the Paro Tsechu Festival took place. This is considered as one of the country’s most important ones where masked dancers perform their art. We had not planned our trip around the festival, so we were just lucky of having the chance to attend. And it really was worth it! It was a colorful affair – from the dancers

to the audience

– and allowed us a unique cultural insight.

1.1.2. Walk/Hike to Zuri Dzong Monastery Paro/National Museum Paro

I dearly remember our first walk/hike starting at our hotel (COMO Paro) up the hill towards Zuri Dzong Monastery Paro.

You need about half three quarters of an hour to reach it, walking through beautiful cypress and pine trees. It is one of the oldest dzongs, dating back to 1352. From here you have a stunning panoramic view of the Paro Valley

(we did not enter the premises).

The walk/hike can be continued in the direction of the National Museum, housed in an ancient watchtower, which requires another half hour. It offers a good introduction to the Buthanese heritage and traditions.

1.1.3. Other sights in Paro

If you have more time available, consider driving to Drukgyel Dzong Paro

northwest of Paro. You find another dzong a this spot, where the highway ends. It was erected to control the northern route to Tibet. For a long time, this dzong had been in ruins. Yet recently, it was completely rebuilt. In the time to come, it shall be opened to the public.

On your way back to Paro, make a stop at Kyichu Lhakhang Temple Paro.

It is one of the country’s oldest temples, built in the 7th century. There is a belief that the two orange trees in the courtyard bear fruit throughout the year.

1.2. Tiger’s Nest Monastery Paro Taktsang Hike

This is one of Bhutan’s most incredible sights, the monastery perched on the side of a sheer cliff 900 m/2,953 ft above the floor of the Paro Valley. Without a doubt, a first time trip to Bhutan would not be complete without seeing it!

The complex was built in 1692, around the cave where Guru Rinpoche first meditated. He is said to have brought the Buddhism from Tibet to Bhutan arriving here on the back of a tiger. Thus, giving this place the name “Tiger’s Nest”.

Getting here involves some effort, meaning an intermediate to difficult hike (700 m/2,297 ft up). Allow about five hours for this activity (including a one-hour temple tour). Start early in the morning to avoid crowds. Plan to leave the monastery around midday. At this time the lighting is ideal for photography. Anyone of average fitness can do this hike, just do not rush it!

2. Thimphu Valley 2,248m/7,375ft (transit only)

I do not consider Bhutan’s capital of Thimphu Town as a must-see on your Bhutan trip. If you expect an idyllic town, you will be disappointed. The traditional houses are fast being replaced by multi-story high-rise buildings. And the town incessantly grows in all directions. As many other Asian countries, Bhutan suffers from rural exodus. Problematic in the case of Thimphu is it that there are by far not enough job opportunities for all the people coming from the countryside.

Be it as it may, there are still some sights you should not miss in Thimphu. We passed it twice on our way from Paro to Punakha and back (it is a bit more than a one-hour drive from Paro).

2.1. Buddha Dordenma Statue Thimphu

The huge 51 m/169 ft statute of Buddha Dordenma is located in a commanding position above Thimphu Town. It is made of bronze and gilded in gold, just as the over 100,000 smaller Buddha statues that come with the huge Buddha. The statue was made in China, cut in pieces and reassembled onsite. Its construction began in 2006 and ended in 2015. A businessman from Singapore sponsored the statue, which costed 100 million US$.

2.2. Traffic cop on Thimphu’s busiest intersection

Bhutan is probably the only country worldwide whose capital does not have a single traffic light. Instead, you find a traffic cop at Thimphu’s busiest intersection. He wears white gloves and directs the traffic in an artful way.

From what I learned, there used to be a traffic light at this spot. Yet it was a source of confusion for the road users. Consequently, it was abolished.

2.3. Simply Bhutan Living Museum

Simply Bhutan is an interactive living museum that gives a quick introduction to different aspects of traditional Buthanese life. You learn how Ara, the rice wine, is made, and you can also try it. They inform about the way they construct their houses. There is also the chance to give their national sport, archery, a shot. And you can watch women doing the typical festival dances while you sip traditional butter tea.

Although the whole thing is rather touristy, it is fun, and you need less than an hour to do the whole tour.

2.4. Dochula Pass

If you do not go to Punakha from Paro, it is still worth doing the trip to the nearby Dochula Pass (about a 45-minute drive from Thimphu). This, in particular, if it is a sunny and clear day. Then you have good chances to view the snow-covered Himalaya peaks from here (which are 7,000 m / 23,000 ft about sea level).

My husband and I crossed this mountain pass (3,100 m/10,300 ft) twice, but we had no luck with the weather, so no snow mountains for us. Yet, we had a look at the 108 memorial chortens (shrines) or stupas (tombs), built in 2004.

3. Punakha Valley 1,242m/4,075ft (day 3-5), 2nd stop Bhutan 9-day itinerary

You get to Punakha in a four- to five-hour drive from Paro. And you encounter a totally different world here. As it is at a lower elevation, it is warmer and has a subtropical climate. It is the main producer of rice, also the red one, which is nuttier in taste. And you find here also banana and orange trees.

Punakha is located at the banks of two beautiful rivers, Po Chhu (Male) and Mo Chhu (Female).

There is also the opportunity to do white-water rafting. The town used to be the country’s capital, until 1955. In terms of things to do in Punakha, there is a wide choice to choose from.

3.1. Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten Punakha

Climbing the hill to this chorten or stupa – a religious monument – is a popular thing to do. You need about half an hour to do so, starting at a footbridge in Yepaisa Village. The chorten, built in 2004, was built to ward off negative forces and to spread peace and harmony to everyone. From its roof, you have a fabulous panorama vista of Punakha’s terraced fields.

3.2. Punakha Dzong

This dzong, erected in the 17th century, is arguably Bhutan’s most beautiful one. At the same time, it is the country’s second oldest and second largest one. And it is the winter home of Je Khenpo, the Chief Abbot, staying here with 1,000 monks. Punakha Dzong is also known under the name of the “palace of great happiness”

3.4. Chorten Nyingpo Lhakhang Punakha

Horten Nyingpo is a monastery in Kabisa, built in 17th century. You can reach it by car along a small, curvy road yet it is much more rewarding to hike up to this remote and lesser visited place. In such a way, you are most times in the forest, pass a village at some point and have great views of Punakha’s rice fields.

Once arrived – you need about 1 1/4 hour by foot from Hotel COMO Punakha – , do not “only” visit the monastery but also walk around a bit. View the property from further away, have a look at the picturesque surroundings and at the impressive archery ground in the adjacent village.

3.5. Other sights in Punakha

A popular monastery is Chimi Lhakhang Punakha, also known as fertility temple. This is easy to recognize from the motifs you find here. The temple was built in honor of the so-called “divine madman” who had an unorthodox way of teaching Buddhism and was fond of women, wine and dance.

The Sangchhen Dorji Lhuendrup Lhakhang Nunnery Punakha is a newly built nunnery constructed in traditional style (2010). It is located on a hill among pine trees, boasting breathtaking views of the Punakha Valley. It is a quiet and peaceful place, and everything is tidy too. 120 nuns live here at this Buddhist College.

The Punakha Suspension Bridge is one of Bhutan’s longest ones, measuring 180 m/590 ft. It is adorned with fluttering prayer flags. It spans over the “Male” river and seems quite stable. Having said that, the bridge may sway a bit when it is windy, and this is quite often.

4. Phobjikha Valley 3,000m/10,000ft (day 6&7), 3rd stop Bhutan 9-day itinerary

This contemplative valley is a great addition to make once you are in Punakha and having two more nights to spend before returning to Paro. You reach the Phobjikha Valley after a three- to four-hour drive from Punakha Valley crossing the Lawa La Pass (3,200 m/10,500 ft).

There is lots of agriculture (especially potato cultivation) in this bowl-shaped glacial valley on the western slopes of the Black Mountains. The area is also called Gangte or Gangtey Valley in reference to the Gangtey Goempa Monastery sitting on a ridge above the valley. As to sights here, there is much to to do here as to walking/hiking yet there are also some religious sites.

4.1. Black-Necked Crane Information Center Phobjikha Valley

The Phobjikha Valley is one of the most important wildlife preserves in the country due to the endangered black-necked cranes that winter here. To have a look at this bird – there are two injured ones in a cage – , go to the Black-Necked Crane Information Center. Here you find also informative displays about the black-necked cranes plus an educational 15-minute video. From October to mid-February, you can watch the birds from here feeding on the valley marshlands.

4.2. Walking/Hiking trails in Phobjikha Valley

There is a number of walking/hiking trails to undertake in this area known for its rhododendrons that bloom in spring.

The most popular one is the Gangtey Nature Trail, starting at the Gangtey Monastery. The path winds down through rather flat terrain and ends at the bottom of the valley. You pass pastures, farmhouses and pine forests before coming to a vast open space. Yet, there are many more options to explore the valley by foot, from short walks to immersive three-days treks.

4.3. Gangtey Monastery Phobjikha Valley

The Gangtey Monastery, also known as Gangte Goenpa, is located in a privileged situation at the top of a hill. From here, you can overlook the green expanse of the whole Phobjikha Valley. The monastery, founded in the 17th century, was restored from 2001 to 2008 due to a beetle-larvae infestation. Adjacent to the monastery you find a village where the monks’ families live.

Looking back and forward on my blog

My mini series to Bhutan started with a travel guide for this magic land of fluttering prayer flags, peaceful monasteries and red robed monks. The current post went into the perfect Bhutan 9-day itinerary through four valleys in the country’s west – Paro, Thimphu, Punakha and Phobjikha – the region that most first time travelers visit in this Himalayan nation.

Next on my blog will be a comparison of the three luxury hotels that offer Bhutan itineraries. After this, I give details on our journey through the Land of the Thunder Dragon, arranged by one of these, COMO.

My Bhutan mini series will find an end with outlining opportunities for a pre- and post-stay. This is a necessity because it is usually not possible to reach Druk Yul – yet another name for Bhutan – without a layover, at least when coming from far-away countries.

Date of visit: April 2023

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At last, my husband and I could do our Buthan journey! We had been waiting three years for this moment – due to the pandemic. Yet what took a long time was finally good. This once-in-a-lifetime journey was worth the hassle – booked (and paid) four years ago! If you wonder about Buthan, it really is something special. Think of a nation that measures its success not from an economic perspective but by the happiness of its people. Bhutan is a mystic land of temples and monasteries, deeply rooted in Buddhism. And it is one of the last true unspoiled countries on earth, packed with stunning natural beauty. Find in my travel guide everything you have to know when thinking of coming to Bhutan, the Land of the Thunder Dragon or Druk Yul in the country’s official language of Dzongkha.

Where lies Bhutan?

Bhutan is a small landlocked country in South Asia. It is nestled between India to the south and China to the north. The kingdom is situated in the eastern Himalayas and has a diverse landscape. This ranges from subtropical plains in the south to the Himalayan peaks in the north (the highest is Gangkhar Puensum: 7,570 m/24,840 ft).

The country is about the size of my home country, Switzerland. Yet it only has 700,000 inhabitants (Switzerland has almost 9 million). The capital of Bhutan is Thimphu. It has a population of around 100,000 and is located at an elevation of 2,248 m/7,375 ft. The ancient capital city was Punakha and was replaced by Thimphu in 1955.

What is to know about Bhutan’s tourism?

Bhutan’s history of tourism is relatively recent. It only opened its doors to foreign visitors in 1974. Prior to this, it had been a largely isolated and mysterious kingdom. Bhutan’s government has always been mindful of the potential impact of tourism on its fragile environment and culture. Therefore, it has taken a cautious approach to developing touristic activities.

Before the coronavirus pandemic

In the early years of tourism, Bhutan limited the number of tourists allowed in the country. Visitors were required to travel with a licensed tour operator and to pay a daily tariff. Before the country closed its borders in March 2020 because of the pandemic, travelers had to spend a minimum of 200 to 250 US$ – depending on the season – for a daily package rate. It included costs for three-star lodging, food, transportation and guide as well as a Sustainable Development Fee (SDF) of 65 US$.

After the coronavirus pandemic

After reopening in September 2023, Bhutan’s government eliminated the minimum daily package rate in favor of raising the SDF from 65 US$ to 200 US$ per day. So, travel costs are no longer covered by the fee. Children between 6-12 years pay 50% of the fee, children 5 years and below are free. The revenue from this fee is used to contribute to the country’s economic, social and cultural development. Visitors from India are exempt from it. For the following two years, they only pay 15 US$ per day.

All visitors require a visa before traveling to Bhutan, except those from India, Bangladesh and the Maldives. It costs 40 US$ per person, and you can apply for it online. Alternatively, if you have your trip organized by a tour operator or a hotel group, they can do this for you. One more note to guides. While they are no longer mandatory for activities within Thimphu and Paro Valley, you still need them once you go beyond this area.

What can you expect in terms of things to see & do in Bhutan?

As outlined above, Bhutan has carefully managed the number of tourists who travel to this country. Therefore, it was able to preserve its unique culture, traditions and nature. As to the latter, this country offers a mesmerizing rural scenery, from green terraced fields to pristine plains, valleys and forests, to dramatic inclines and 7,000 m/23,000 ft peaks. As far as Bhutan’s cultural and traditional independence is concerned, it was also promoted by the fact that it has never been colonized. The country’s culture and traditions are closely intertwined with its religion. Of course this is about Buddhism, which still influences many aspects of life in Bhutan. When it comes to where this religion is practiced, find more in the following sections.

Dzongs and their function

You find dzongs throughout the country’s twenty districts. These former fortresses were built to defend against Tibetan invasions, starting in the 12th century. One dzong per district serves both as the center of administration as well as the center of religion and culture. And this with a strict separation between these two purposes. The dzongs with this split function, respectively their courtyards, usually serve as places for festival celebrations too.

Monasteries and Lhakhangs

10,000 of the country’s 700,000 inhabitants are Buddhist monks. You already can start this “career” at the age of five. And yes, there are also female monks (nuns), yet they are less numerous. Monks live in monasteries, known as Gompas or Goenpas. Temples or Lhakhangs can be part of monasteries, or they can be situated outside of them. Both monks and nuns keep their heads shaved and wear distinguishing maroon robes. As a traveler to Bhutan, you can visit many of the monasteries and temples. While you can usually take photos in these properties, this is not allowed inside the temples. Yet you may enter them and watch how the monks pray, chant and even how they have a meal.

Other Bhutan features

Not only the religious and municipal buildings are impressive for foreigners. Also “normal houses” are quite a sight. Did you know that there is a rule how to build them?

A further particularity is also the dress code for Buthanese people. When locals go to the authorities or visit religious sites, men have to wear the gho, women the kira.

In case you think about visiting Bhutan, it is a good thing if you like to explore your surroundings by foot. Because this is the royal road to discover this beautiful country. Embark on a guided trek across forest trails or follow winding paths on steep mountainsides.

Another activity concerns the country’s national sport, archery. Many hotels have their own ground where you can try it out.

If you like river rafting, a good place to head is Punakha. Here you can do this kind of thing on the twin rivers, “Male” and “Female”. Or maybe you want to go on a ride on Himalayan horses?

When is the best time to visit Bhutan?

While you can travel Buthan year-round, there are two preferred seasons to do so. I speak here of the country’s west, where most travelers go. The possibly best season to visit this country is fall, from late September to November. This time brings the changing of leaves, along with dry weather and crispy clear days.

The spring months of March to May are best for flora.

Then the weather is pleasant but not too hot. It is a good time to travel to Bhutan, although there is more chance of overcast days than in fall. It is often windy in the afternoon. Rain is possible but mostly during night. This was the season where my husband and I went to Bhutan. We mostly had sunny days, with short overcast phases. Though we never had a good view of the high mountain peaks, which are perpetually covered in snow. And the soil was extremely dry.

The rainy season (monsoon) is between June and August. Then the temperature is the warmest but there is of course a higher chance of rain. And there can be lower visibility too. The land turns lush and green, what must be quite a sight.

December to February bring sunny days and clear mountain views. Although the temperature drops after dusk, days are still quite warm and pleasant. There is chance of light snow fall in west and central Bhutan, yet larger quantities only occur at higher elevations.

How do you get to Bhutan? What is an ideal pre & post travel plan?

Visitors can travel to Bhutan by air from Bangkok/Thailand (partly with stop in Dhaka/Bangladesh, you can remain on board), Singapore, India (Delhi, Kolkata, Guwahati, Bagdogra) and Kathmandu/Nepal. For now, there are only two airlines that fly into Bhutan, Drukair and Bhutan Airlines. And they do this to Paro, the country’s only international airport. Private jets can only fly into Bhutan after getting the relevant approvals from the authorities.

The landing approach at Paro International Airport in Paro is considered to be one of the most challenging in the world. This is due to its location in a steep-sided valley, surrounded by mountains. Only about 20 specially trained pilots are authorized to land here.

When we flew into Paro at the beginning of April, there were no direct flights from Bangkok (only with stop in Dhaka/Bangladesh). There was only one flight per day, starting at 5 am and landing at 08.30 am. It was carried out by Drukair. For best views of the Himalayan mountain ranges, opt for a seat on the left side for flying in and one on the right side for flying out.

If you wonder about where to stay (in style) in stopover locations on your Bhutan trip, I have suggestions for you as to Bangkok and Hua Hin in Thailand (posts to follow), to Delhi and Agra/Taj Mahal in India as well as to Singapore.

How to get around in Bhutan?

For getting around in west Bhutan – were most travelers go – , it is best to hire a vehicle and driver from a car rental company or a tourism service provider. You cannot drive yourself in Bhutan. If you want to head to Bumthang (central Bhutan), there are domestic flights available.

An option is it also – as my husband and I did – to follow an itinerary set by a hotel. In this case, they arrange a car with driver and guide for you. If you should be into luxury travel, there are three international high-end hotel groups operating in this field. In a post to come, I will go into how to travel Bhutan in style with one of them. It is about COMO. This is the company which has the least expensive journeys – although they are wallet breakers too. There are two more luxury brand that even have more costly offers, more to follow.

Apropos guide, as hinted earlier, you need one once your journey extends beyond Thimphu and Paro. And I would suggest doing so as these both towns are not necessarily what defines Bhutan (see more in my section about a possible itinerary). Besides, guides will be able to give you the insights when visiting temples or fortresses.

What itinerary to choose as a first timer to Bhutan?

I will go into details where to go and what to do in Bhutan when outlining the itinerary my husband and I took in a post to come. Here I just inform about the most common travel plan for a minimum stay and possible expansion options.

While you could make your stay as short as four or five nights, I suggest opting for a minimum of seven nights (we did nine nights). This allows you to explore the not-to-be missed sites and some lesser visited places in two valleys (Paro/Thimphu and Punakha). Do also consider that you are located in Bhutan at quite high elevations (for instance Paro is at 2,200 m/7,200 ft). So, you need some time for acclimatization.

7-night itinerary Bhutan (west Bhutan)

If you have seven nights at your disposal, you can explore three valleys in west Bhutan. I would use day one and two for exploring the Paro Valley (without Tiger’s Nest).

On your way to Punakha (three- to four-hour drive), you can stop in Thimphu (another valley), the capital, for taking in the major sights. As this town is not especially picturesque, I do not consider staying here overnight as a must.

Once arrived in the subtropical Punakha Valley, I recommend three days for checking out this beautiful area, one of the most magnificent ones in Bhutan.

Return to Paro for your days six and seven. On your way back, visit some more spots in the Thimphu Valley before tackling your hike to the Tiger’s Nest (about five hours) on your last day.

9-night (west Bhutan) respectively 12-night itinerary Bhutan (plus central Bhutan)

In case you have two days more, I suggest adding the Phobjikha Valley, also known as Gangtey Valley, a strikingly appealing glacial valley (three- to four-hour drive).

If you have additional three days to spend in Bhutan, another valley might be an option, and this is the Bumthang Valley in central Bhutan. This requires another five-hour drive (from Phobjikha Valley). I have not been here, but it must be a noteworthy place, also called the “Switzerland of the East”. To avoid the long drive back to Paro, consider a flight of about 35 minutes.

Are there any other interesting facts about Bhutan?

Economic situation in Bhutan

Since Bhutan became a democratic constitutional monarchy in 2008, it has relied on a development strategy based on Gross National Happiness, as briefly mentioned above. The country is nowadays considered as lower-middle income country. It has been able to substantially reduce poverty over the last two decades. This was due to the development of hydropower and a strong performance in services, including tourism. Other sectors remain less competitive, so job creation outside of the public sector and agriculture (70% of the population are farmers)

is limited. And tourism has been slow to recover after the pandemic, partly due to the already indicated tripled Sustainable Development Fee (SDF) for international tourists. The small kingdom has strong economic relations with India, also most tourists to Bhutan come from here, more than 70% before the pandemic (source: The World Bank and others).

Buthanese cuisine

The base of the Buthanese cuisine is rice, especially red rice, which has a certain nutty flavor. Buckwheat, wheat and corn are also used, to make noodles

and some kind of polenta. These starch ingredients as well as potatoes are combined with meat just as beef, pork, lamb and yak. Locals use lots of chili to season their dishes, along with cheese.

These are also the star ingredients for their national dish, Ema Datshi.

Another dish that you get everywhere in Bhutan are Momos.

These dumplings are filled with vegetable or meat and are mostly served steamed. And of course you get chili paste with it. Furthermore, Indian food is also widely available.

As to beverages, there is Suja, a tea made of butter. The most common alcoholic drink is Ara. It is produced by fermenting or distilling wheat, rice, millet, barley or buckwheat.

Bhutan Animals

More than 70% of Bhutan’s territory is covered by forest. This area is home to quite a diversity of wildlife. There is the takin, the national animal of Bhutan. It has a nose like a moose, horns like a wildebeest and a body like a bison. So, it is quite an odd-looking creature.

But there is more of wildlife. Bhutan is home to tigers, one-horned rhinos, golden langurs, leopards, snow leopards, Asiatic elephants and red pandas. There are also lots of birds, among them the black necked cranes

and the white bellied herons.

What is next on my blog about Bhutan?

After this travel guide to Bhutan, I will provide a perfect 9-day itinerary for the Land of the Thunder Dragon. A post about how to explore Bhutan with an arrangement by hotels will follow. As we love luxury getaways, it is about upscale lodging. As hinted earlier, there are three luxury hotel groups operating on such a basis in Druk Yul. And I will compare them with each other. After this look at “the luxury threesome”, I will go into our choice’s details, and this is COMO. Finally, there will be a blogpost about where to stay before and after a Bhutan trip. As we flew in from Bangkok, we had a pre-Bhutan stay in Bangkok and a post-Bhutan one in Hua Hin/Thailand.

Date of visit: April 2023

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I like to walk, and this everywhere imaginable – if it is not too strenuous. This was not any different in Bali. After four visits to this island in eight years, I had ample chance to do this on the one or other occasion. So, I will share the best Bali walks with you, divided by location. Take note that it is NOT about (serious) hiking – no climbing Mount Agung or so. Instead I would like to go into walking or hiking for pleasure on the Island of the Gods, with a low to medium exercise intensity.

Before diving into suggestions for best Bali walks, first some general info about walking on the Island of the Gods.

How to proceed when walking in Bali

In my overview post about Bali, I have already promoted the outdooractive app (here for Bali). I find it quite easy to use and very well to navigate. And you can do this also when you are offline. Best in my opinion is it to use it when you are already onsite, for example in Ubud. Then you can list possible hikes, and there are often more suggestions than when doing the same thing from far away.

This app is also great when it comes to possible paths next to where you are (the dotted lines). In such a way, you can find your own ways, for example from your hotel in Ubud’s surroundings to the town center. My husband and I did this on our recent visit to Bali’s cultural and spiritual center. And it was a great way to experience the wonderful rice fields in the area along less visited trails.

One more remark to your Bali walks. Quite often you encounter dogs, especially when doing your own ways in the area. From what I read, there are many more than before Corona. Most house owners have more than one dog, and there are stray dogs too. Please be careful when coming across them. While most are harmless, there are also aggressive ones. Maybe check out beforehand how to handle possibly critical situations in this regard.

But now to concrete walking recommendations, listed by place. I will do this along the same scheme I used for my Bali itinerary in my mentioned overview post about Bali.

Bali walks by location

I usually limit myself to such walks I have already made. Yet there is the one or other walk I only read about but have not done yet. But I will mark them accordingly.

Bali’s south: best walks

I start with the island’s south, known for going to for sun, sea and sand. Yet there are also some walks to do here, however they are not plentiful.

Nusa Dua

Nusa Dua is a purpose-built enclave with predominantly upscale lodging. Many of the hotels are situated along a paved board walk,

which is great for a leisurely walk. You can start either at the Conrad Resort on Tanjung Benoa or near Mengiat Beach close to the Ayodya Resort. The whole path is about 5 km (3.1 mi) long, and you need about two hours out and back. It is really a great thing to have a sneak peek into all these accommodations.

But it is more than this. Along the way – near the Grand Hyatt – , there are two islands (Nusa Due means “two islands”). However, they are more headlands than anything else. You find a statue and a water blow on one and a small temple on the other.

Sanur

This somewhat sleepy town on the southeastern coast also has a great board walk. It is paved and runs for 6 km (3.7 mi) along the sea.

While doing it, you pass hotels just as in Nusa Dua, albeit they mainly cater for midscale to budget travelers. Yet there are also lots of restaurants, beach clubs, small markets and spots full of fishing boats.

I would guess that you need about three hours to do the whole stretch out and back (from Matahari Terbit Beach in the north to Mertasari Beach in the south).

Central Bali: best walks

You find quite a lot of walks in Ubud. Quite often they are in the rice paddies, which are nice. Yet in case you are on the lookout for really great rice terraces, you have to go further north. The big name here are Tegallalang and Jatiluwih.

Ubud

Essentially there are two must-do walks here, both just off the main road of Jalan Raya Ubud. The first is a ridge walk (1.), the other is one in the nearby rice fields (2.). And they are parallel to each other. In addition, there is also a picturesque village in the rice paddies adjoining Ubud’s center where you could do either a circuit or use it as passageway from your hotel by the Ayung river to “downtown” Ubud (3.).

1. Campuhan Ridge Walk

Directions & map: Outdooractive

This is probably the most popular walk in Bali’s cultural hub. From the paved path you have great views of river gorges (Campuhan means “place where two rivers meet”) and lush tropical forests (not many rice fields).

First you are more or less in the nature, later on you come to a neighborhood with lots of cafés and restaurants.

Campuhan Ridge Walk starts off the main road (Jalan Raya Ubud), right before crossing the bridge leading to the Blanco Museum. The (out and back) trail is 4 km (2.5 mi) long (until the Karsa Café). We walked a bit longer until we came to a busy road (Jalan RSI Markandya II) where we turned around. This took us about one hour and 45 minutes.

2. Subak Juwuk Manis & Subak Sok Wayah Rice Fields Walk

Directions & map: Outdooractive

If you look for a time out from the hustle and bustle in Ubud’s core, you are only steps away from an easy and peaceful rice field walk. It is actually about two parallel trails connected to a loop. You can start at either of them, here I give directions when doing Subak Juwak Manis first.

The trailhead ist just off the main road (Jalan Raya Ubud). From the Starbucks in Ubud’s center go towards Museum Puri Lukisan (in the direction of the Blanco Museum). Right before the museum there is a small passage where the walk is signposted towards right.

When you are away from the buildings on the main road, rice paddies take turn with scattered houses, always along a narrow river (that you will not necessarily notice).

At one point you come to a forest. After walking in it for a while,

a bridge appears, which you have to cross to get to the other side of the small river. Then you go in the opposite direction until you come to stairs, which you have to climb.

At this point, you are on the other trail, Subak Sok Wayah. You either return to Ubud’s core or explore the path a bit further before heading back. My husband and I did the latter and turned around when we caught sight a dog that seemed not that friendly. The whole trail is about 6.6 km (4.1 mil) long. You need about one hour and 45 minutes to finish it.

3. Penestanan Rice Field Circuit

Directions & map: Outdooractive

The Penestanan village adjoining to Ubud’s center is a great area for having a pleasant rice paddy walk. Or, as in our case, it offers an idyllic passageway to walk from Ubud’s core to all the nearby hotels along the Ayung River.

I name here just a few of them: Mandapa A Ritz-Carlton Reserve, Amandari, Four Seasons Resort or The Samaya Ubud.

If you like walking just as my husband and I do, it is a great way to explore a lesser known area in Ubud. If you should have your hotel around here, check out possible paths on Outdooractive. The link above brings you to a circuit in Penestanan from which I only did parts of it (using it as a passageway). Yet, I think that it would be worthwhile doing as a whole.

From Ubud’s center, walk on the main road (Jalan Raya Ubud) to the Blanco Museum (about 12 minutes). From here you are only a few minutes away from the Penestanan stairs that bring you up to the picturesque village of Penestanan.

Tegallalang Rice Terraces (20 minutes from Ubud by car)

These are probably the most beautiful rice terraces I have ever encountered. Their steepness makes them really special. Yet there is a big BUT. When I was here in 2016, Tegallalang was already a big tourist attraction with quite a crowd around. From what I read, it got worse. The rice terraces seem to have turned into some sort of a tourist trap with swings and other Instagram spot everywhere. I am sad to hear this, and I dearly hope that the government will intervene to put an end to the overexploitation of this wonderful patch of earth.

On our 2016 visit, it was still possible to get away from the masses by walking a bit further into the valley. But as I understand, much has changed, and overtourism is prevalent here. So, I am not in the position to give good advice in terms where to go for a walk to take in these amazing rice terraces. I checked out walking suggestions on the internet (nothing on Outdooractive). And what I found is following trail how to access the most beautiful part of these steep Tegallalang rice terraces. Maybe give it a try!

Jatiluwih Rice Terraces (one hour 15 minutes from Ubud by car)

Instead of going to Tegallalang for a walk in the rice terraces, which seems overcrowded, I suggest heading to Jatiluwih. While it is further away from Ubud, it is well worth doing so. Jatiluwih is supposed to be the largest and most picturesque among the rice terrace areas in Bali. Plus, it is the only one that is a UNESCO World heritage site. However, the terraces are not so steep as the ones in Tegallalang. But this and its distance from Ubud are the only drawbacks I can think of.

On the plus side, it is uncrowded, beautiful, well kept and with lots of options for walking around. You find here warungs (simple restaurants), bathrooms, and there is only the one or the other Instagram spot. It is actually some sort of a National Park. In terms of walks, there are six different tracks to undertake here ranging from 1.5 km (0.9 mi) to 5.5 km (3.4 mi).

On our visit, not all of the tracks were open. So, we did a mix. We started near Gong Jatiluwih Restaurant where we followed the orange trail to the almost end. Before coming to the exit, we took the red one back to where all the trails are together. Here, we followed the purple one to its very end. We spent about two and a half hours in total at Jatiluwih with a short break at one of its warungs.

Bali’s north: best walks

While staying in Lovina back in 2014, we did not do any walks here. And from what I learnt now, when checking out the area in terms of walks, there is not much to undertake in this regard. My advice is to head to Munduk further south in case you feel like walking Bali’s north.

Munduk (45 minutes from Lovina)

Directions & map: Outdooractive

I came across the mountain village of Munduk several times when researching Bali’s north. It is located near the so called Twin Lakes of Buyan Lake and Tramblingan Lake. I have not been here, but it seems like a good place to go if you like walking in beautiful natural surroundings. Think in this context of waterfall treasure hunting – some of Bali’s most beautiful waterfalls are located here – , or walking/hiking through the area’s rice paddies and other plantations.

There are several walking suggestions for Munduk on Outdooractive, I have listed a waterfall walk above.

Bali’s east: best walks

On our two stays near Candidasa,

my husband and I did a couple of walks. However, most of them were not self-guided but arranged by our hotel. One must-do tour in the area is the one from Kastala to Tenganan.

1. Kastala to Tenganan (25 minutes from Candidasa)

The two-hour walk (out only, you have to arrange for a transport once you have finished it) is described in my post about what to see and to do in east Bali. So, go to the correspondent section to get the details. Only so much, it is a rewarding thing to do, walking along an irrigation canal

with fantastic views of rice terraces with mount Agung as a backdrop.

The wal ends in Tenganan, a traditional village of the Bali Aga, the pre-Hindu original people of Bali.

2. Lempuyang Pura/Temple (45 minutes from Candidasa)

Directions & map: Alltrails

Although I promised to provide suggestions for easy walks, this one is a bit of an exception. It is about the Lempuyang temple trail, where 1,700 steps bring you to the topmost temple, Lempuyang Luhar (1,175 m/3,855 ft. above sea level). In total there are seven temples, from which the bottom most one is an Instagram spot (Gate of Heaven).

This temple complex is one of the holiest on the whole island.

From the first temple there is a tarmac road leading to the second temple (Telaga Mas). Here the steps start. At the first crossing, you can either turn left in the direction of the 6th temple (Pasar Agung, we got there after a one hour walk)

or right where you come first to temples No three to five (Telaga Sawang, Lempuyang Madya and Puncak Bisbis). When doing the latter loop, you can return to the beginning (left) at the next crossing (as the above mentioned trail does) or you can continue your climb to the 6th temple.

On our visit, we could not do the loop because of a land slide that had destroyed the path. Once arrived at the 6th temple, you need one hour more – according to our guide – to the topmost temple. At the summit, you seem to have great views of the surroundings, at least if the weather allows it. We did not do this (it was misty), but took the way back to the Gate of Heaven (about half an hour).

I found the trail strenuous, especially as we had to go the direct way. And the heat and the humidity did not help. Go as early in the morning as possible to make the climb more pleasant. And be careful, there seem to be no dogs around, but monkey (macaques), and they are very aggressive (at the upper part of the trail).

3. Sidemen Rice Terraces (45 minutes from Candidasa)

Directions & map: Outdooractive

If you feel like walking east Bali’s rice terraces, the ones in Sidemen are probably your best choice. I have been in the area but I did not do either the suggested walk nor any other ones. I visited the town of Sidemen because of the weaving that is traditionally done here. In any case, you are in here for “real Bali” as this region still seems largely unaffected by mass tourism.

You find in the Sidemen area not only lots of rice terraces but also other farmlands and some quaint villages. As to the walk listed, it is the only one I found on Outdooractive.

Overall/What was before and what is next?

This post was about where to go in Bali for an easy walk, and this divided by location. I covered not only the island’s popular south but also the cultural hub of Ubud and other places in central Bali. Furthermore, I made a suggestion in the north and several ones in the east.

Earlier on my blog I already reported on my findings on luxury travel in Bali after four visits in eight years This included the Island of the Gods as a travel destination, best time for visiting, how to proceed when having walks in mind and where to go for sights (and at the same time for staying in style).

There will be two more posts about Bali. The next will be about hotels that are suitable for discerning travelers, again divided by location. The last one in this mini series about the Island of the Gods is for the foodies among us. It will showcase the best (casual) fine dining you get in Ubud in central Bali.

Last date of stay: November 2022

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In case you are a luxury travel enthusiast and about to go to Bali, I might provide some advice. Especially so, when it comes to which areas to choose for staying in style. This is also true when looking for some general information on the Island of the Gods. Think in this context of some background to Bali as a tourism destination or the best time for a trip here. If you care for doing the one or other walk on this magical island, then I might help too. Finally, being a (hardcore) foodie, I am able to provide a couple of really good addresses too, especially in Ubud!

What to expect in detail

While my main focus is about where to go for staying and dining in style in Bali, I will start my report on this island with some general observations. A view on its tourism industry makes the start, followed by some considerations as to its future. The section to follow illuminates the best time for visiting this destination. As Bali makes a good place for walking, there will be some information about how to proceed if you wish to do so. In a post to come I will suggest some Bali walks, and this divided by areas.

In a further step, I will go into which regions to choose for your stay on the island. This selection takes into account not only getting Bali’s essence but also making sure that it suits the demanding traveler. In this post, I limit myself in indicating areas with specific places that cater for luxury travel. When it comes to concrete upscale hotels, this will be the topic of a future blogpost.

In yet another post, I want to give an account of the fabulous (casual) fine dining options in Ubud, Bali’s cultural heart. When being here recently, my husband and I tried out five of the best what this town has to offer in terms of high end gastronomy.

As I can look back at four stays in Bali over the last years, I have already written quite a number of posts about this destination. I will include them in my reporting whereever it makes sense. My goal is it to complement the information already gathered on previous trips with new insights gained on my recent stay.

Bali as a travel destination

The Island of the Gods has attracted Westerners for more than 100 years. And since the 70s of the last century, it has drawn more and more visitors. The Australians were the first who came to Bali in bigger groups. That is no wonder because this island is not far away from Australia. And Bali became increasingly popular for Australian tourists in search of beach, beer and bungalow. The hot-spot in this context became Kuta, close to the international airport of Denpasar.

From 2012 to 2019 the number of foreign tourists coming to Bali has more than doubled (from 2.9 million to 6.3 million, source: Statista 2022). While the Australians remained the biggest group of tourists until 2016, this changed the following year. In 2017, the Chinese overtook them. And they predominantly came for an average three to four day stay as part of a package deal. In the years to follow, there was the pandemic which let the number of visitors slump.

Since the borders have reopened in February 2022, tourists are back. The target of 1.5 million tourists for 2022 will most probably not only be hit but surpassed (1.4 millions until end of October 2022, source: The Bali Sun). The Australians became the most frequent international visitors to Bali again. That is not surprising as the Chinese are not yet allowed to travel abroad. Will everything in Bali continue much as before once China will let its citizens leave the country again?

What is next for Bali’s tourism?

Little suggests that Bali’s tourism boom (Or better call it overtourism?) will come to an end. It is true, Bali is a traveler’s paradise. But the tourist officials have to take care that the Island of the Gods does not lose its magic. Tourism in Bali accounts for more than 60% of its economy (source: BBC News), which is not healthy.

The key would be to create a more resilient economy basing also on other sectors just as the agriculture or the art scene. As to the former, what would Bali be without its abundance of rice fields? From what I read and heard, there are lots of farmers who sell their land to investors as they do not earn enough from growing rice any more. It has to be feared that the rice terraces could turn into a stage set for the tourist industry only.

Furthermore, growth at any rate in terms of arrivals can no longer be the target for Bali’s tourism. Focus must be placed on other than continuing its unleashed mass tourism. Instead the industry has to move towards a qualitative approach. The aim here is promoting Bali as a destination for high-spending, long-stay (10 days and more) and independent travelers.

Best time to visit Bali

There are two seasons in Bali, the dry season (April to October) and the wet one (November to March). While you can expect hot temperatures throughout the year (26-29°C/79-84°F), sunnier days are more likely from April to October. Peak season on this island is in July and August, coinciding with European summer vacations. So, Bali sees most visitors in this period of time. Most travelers find that May, June and September are the best times, when the weather is favorable yet fewer crowds are around.

My husband and I stayed in Bali at various times of the year. Our first visit was in April where we encountered rainfall on two days (when being in the mountains). Our stays number two and three took place in the high season, once in August, the other time in July. Throughout our trips it was almost always dry and sunny. Our recent visit to the island was at the end of October and the beginning of November. Whereas it only rained once in the first week (the whole arrival day), there were late afternoon showers almost every day in our second week. And the rain brought quite a bunch of mosquitos too.

If I were free in my choice of revisiting Bali, I think I would opt for coming in the first half of June or the second half of September.

Walking in Bali

While you can climb volcanoes in Bali, it is not what I have in mind when it comes to walking here. Just one remark to the (serious) hiking. From what I read, Mount Batur might be suitable for the average trekker yet far from being an easy walk. As far as climbing Mount Agung is concerned, it is said to be very challenging. Only experienced trekker should dare to take on this activity.

For myself, I am more into walking or hiking for pleasure, with a low to medium exercise intensity. So, do not expect any advice regarding hardcore hiking in Bali. It is more about short fun walks here. And those are plentiful on this island, especially along its beautiful rice fields, which can be found simply everywhere.

Instead of offering concrete walking suggestions at this point (there will be in a post to come), I will inform about a great walking app. This helps you not only to find lots of walks but also the paths in the area where you are right now.

Which walking app to use for your Bali walks & hikes

On several occasions on my blog, I have already promoted the outdooractive app. It is easy to navigate, and you can also use it when you are offline. While you can check out possible trails when not being onsite, I find it easier to do so when you are already in the area, for example at your hotel. Then you open the map and list the available suggestions. In case you do not find a suitable one nearby, have a look at the paths next to you (the dotted lines). Once on your route, you can always check whether you head in the right direction (your position is marked on the map).

For walking recommendations in Bali, check out the ones in the outdooractive app. And as announced earlier, I will also suggest concrete walks by area in a future post.

Where to go in Bali for sights (& at the same time for staying in style)

When visiting Bali, you do not want to come here solely for sun, sea and sand. If you should be interested in laying on the beach and going for a swim in the ocean only, I personally could think of better places. However, it certainly can not hurt to spend a few days by the sea once you had your share of taking into the island’s sights.

In a first step, I will propose the regions in Bali to you that you should visit to get to know the “Real Bali”. As to specific upscale hotels in each area, I will go into them in a post to follow here on my blog. Yet I can assure you that there are accommodations for staying in style everywhere along the following itinerary. However, in certain parts they are not plentiful.

Bali itinerary

Bali’s south

I start with Bali’s most touristy area, the south, where you also find the best options for sun, sea and sand. In my view, it is the ideal place to end you trip as it is not only perfect for a few quiet days but also because you are close to the airport.

When it comes to where to go exactly as discerning traveler, I suggest that you should avoid Kuta at any costs. Evil tongues say that it is “the worst place on Bali”. And why is this? It is the island’s tourist mecca, especially for young backpackers and people who want to party to extremes. And it is not only crowded but also – from what I read – dirty and full of mediocre restaurants and shops.

As a traveler who likes to indulge in the finer things of life, I recommend instead one of the following spots.

Seminyak

The upscale beachfront resort of Seminyak north of Kuta and Legian outclasses its neighbors by featuring more high-end hotels and restaurants. A disadvantage here is that the traffic can get pretty crazy.

The beach here is suitable for swimming, albeit there are some waves. These may attract the beginner/intermediate surfer too.

Nusa Dua

This peninsula in southern Bali is known as a purpose-built enclave of prime hotels. While the gated government-sponsored compound of resort hotels is rather sterile, it is certainly a nice place to relax and unwind.

As to the beach here, it has white sand, and the water is great for swimming. However, at low tide you can walk as far as to the reef, which makes it rather a spot for beachcombers.

Sanur

This former fishing village on the southeastern coast has established itself as a vacation since the 1930s. And this long before the other beaches in Bali became famous. It caters mainly for travelers looking for midscale lodging. Notwithstanding that, I felt at ease here, liking the town’s laid-back vibe. At its heart, Sanur still remains the traditional Balinese village it used to be.

There are several beaches in town, from which Sanur Beach is the most central. They are all nice enough, and the water is calm.

Apart from these three seaside spots, there is one more catering for luxury travel, and this is the following one.

Jimbaran

I have not been here but from what I read it seems to be a good place for discerning travelers. It is said to have lots of options for high-end lodging and dining. The same shall be true for shopping opportunities. Plus, it is the fastest spot to reach from the airport, starting just south of the runway. And last but not least, it is supposed to be more on the relaxed side.

In terms of swimming, there are no big waves, so you do not encounter many surfers here.

After pointing out where to head for a few days in Bali by the beach, now to how to explore the original island, the “Real Bali”.

The “Real Bali”

To get the island’s real sense of place, you have to go further than its south, at least as far as Ubud. This small town in central Bali is the cultural and spiritual hotspot of the Island of the Gods. But for a complete picture, I consider it as necessary to visit other regions just as the north and the east too. This allows you to get to know an uncrowded Bali as well, because that is not the case for Ubud. As to the west, it is the least visited part of the island with no must-do sights. And there are no noteworthy options for staying in style here either.

So, where should you go in your search of Bali’s true magic? And remember, I will only indicate places that offer lodging for luxury travelers too. This excludes quite a few spots beforehand.

Ubud

No visit to Bali is complete without going to Ubud. Out of four stays on this island, my husband and I have been to Bali’s cultural center three times. And it never gets boring to do so. It is famous for its arts and crafts, and there are lots of galleries and artists’ workshops. Ubud is located among rice fields and steep ravines in the central foothills. You can reach it in about a hour by car from the airport.

There is definitely no lack of great high-end hotel in Ubud. Although some of them are not that close to Ubud’s center. If you want to dine at its excellent restaurants (a later blogpost will go into it) or even reach it by foot, I recommend not to opt for one that is more than 20 minutes or so by car away.

Bali’s north

My last overnight stay in Bali’s north dates back to 2014. But I have been told that not much has changed since then. At the time, we were in Lovina, that is a northwestern coastal town. From Ubud you need about two hours by car to reach it. Lovina is a low-key resort best known for its sunrise dolphin watching tours. Yet it features uncrowded (black sand) beaches too. And the water is calm here. And as you would not expect otherwise, hotel for staying in style here are scarce.

An alternative to Lovina might be Munduk, a relatively untouched paradise. I have not been here but read good things about it. It is circa 45 minutes inland from Lovina (one hour and 40 minutes by car from Ubud). It is a mountain village in the highlands of central Bali and supposed to be a heaven for nature lovers and waterfall chasers.

Bali’s east

When coming the first time to Bali in 2014, we  toured through the area without staying for the night. That was different in 2019 and on our recent stay, when we were here for four respectively six nights. And both times, we enjoyed very much this peaceful rural part of the island (my post about what do see and do here)! You get more than a taste of the traditional Bali here, and you are still able to escape the crowds. The best spot here to stay for the night is probably Candidasa. From the airport you get here in about one hour and 15 minutes.

For a great beach in the area, head 20 minutes by car from Candidasa towards west to Virgin Beach. Here you find a beautiful stretch of white sand, which is rare in Bali’s east. For divers, there is a good spot on the northeast coast in the old fishing villages of Amed and Tulamben (about one hour by car from Candidasa).

Overall/What is next?

This post focused on places in Bali with the “real island feeling” and where you find the necessary infrastructure for luxury travel too. Before doing so, I first went into some general information about the Islands of the Gods. This was about Bali as a tourism destination, the best travel time and how to proceed if you want to do walks here.

What to expect more in the context of Bali? After establishing where to go as demanding traveler on this island, I did two lists. On the one hand, I put together some of the best walks in all the spots I suggested (next blogpost). On the other hand, I made an overview on luxury hotels in these places (the blogpost after next). Finally, a last post about Bali will cover the best (casual) fine dining options in Bali’s spiritual heartland of Ubud.

Last date of stay: November 2022

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The post Findings on luxury travel in Bali after the 4th stay in 8 years first appeared on Swiss Traveler

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My three-week Japan trip together with my husband (before the pandemic) brought me not only to the typical route of the “Golden Triangle” (Tokyo-Kyoto-Osaka) with three extensions (Hakone, Takayama & Kanazawa), but also to rural Japan to two off the beaten path destinations. And this was a much needed change to the rather city focused rest of our route! If you plan to visit the Land of the Rising Sun once it is possible again, consider doing the same. It is well worth discovering a different side of Japan.

Before going into these two off the beaten path destinations, first a look back to my other posts about Japan.

My other Japan posts

This blogpost will be the last of my Japan adventure. Previously on my blog, I published five more. I started with our itinerary and things to do in the respective stops. This included a map – created with My Google Maps – complete with all the activities, hotels and restaurants of our trip. Next was a post about the (luxury) hotels of our Japan tour. I continued with an excursus how to find good restaurants for gourmets and how to get reservations at them. This was followed by a post about our choice of (Michelin) fine dining spots. And the fifth blogpost was about our stay at a luxurious ryokan.

Why Kiso Valley & Yakushima Island?

Of course, these destinations did not come out of my head. I have to admit that I came upon both while following other travel blogs. As my husband and I had three weeks available for criss-crossing Japan, I wanted to include some spots that are not so frequently traveled. And I was also looking for a rural contrast to the rest of the trip that went from one city to another.

In addition, both stops could be integrated in our itinerary without too many difficulties. Yakushima never seemed to be a problem insofar as it can be either reached from Honshu by train/ferry or from major cities by air.

As to Kiso Valley, it is on the the way from Hakone resp. Tokyo to the so-called Japanese Alps (Takayama & Kanazawa). While you can reach it by train, it is a bit inconvenient yet feasible.

Especially when I came across a ryokan owner that offered to pick us up from the station. However, this became moot with our decision to do the first part of our trip by rental car. If you should wonder about driving in Japan, it was no problem at all. My husband insisted on doing so, and I am grateful that he did!

Now to some information about the destinations, the things to do there and where to stay in style.

1. Kiso Valley, an off the beaten path destination in Japan

Why visit Kiso Valley?

If you have two nights to spare for a lesser-visit rural destination with historic relevance on your way from Tokyo to Kyoto/Osaka or to Takayama/Kanazawa, then Kiso Valley is it!

This rugged area covered with forests in southwestern Nagano is the place to step back in time. It is home of the beautifully preserved posts towns of Magome, Tsumago or Nerai. These three places, above all the two former ones, are the jewels of the Nakasendo. This is an old mountain route from Kyoto to Edo (nowadays Tokyo) used by merchants and samurais in the old times.

Magome and Tsumago (part of Nagiso), have put much effort into keeping their towns authentic as it was at the time. In addition, they are connected by a wonderful 7.7 km/4.8 mi stretch of the Nakasendo.

This is a great hike to do. And it is not too hard, especially if you start in Magome. It sits higher in the mountain range than Tsumago. It is a rewarding stretch to do as you pass hamlets, local shrines, brass bells (to keep away bears), a tea house (with free tea) and beautiful nature.

Before you set off, have a look around in lovely Magome to appreciate its unique architecture.

You will need about two to three hours to do the hike. For your return to Magome, you can take the bus from Tsumago. But count in enough time to explore this gem of a town before. Here you feel like being in an open-air museum village.

If you have some time left, Narai, in the northern part of Kiso Valley, is remarkably well preserved too. And it is much larger than the other post towns in the area. It features the longest stretch of historic wooden houses (1 km/0.6 mi).

Where to stay in comfort in Kiso Valley

Regular readers of my blog will maybe note that I wrote “comfort” instead of “style” in the title of this chapter as I usually do. And this is for a reason. When looking for an accommodation in the area, I did not find one that deserves the label “upscale”. But I came across a ryokan that sounded promising. And my husband and I were not disappointed by our stay, although I missed one or two things that I usually attach value on …

If you really want to stay at a supposedly truly luxurious hotel in Kiso Valley, I might have a tip. When doing some research after returning home, I came upon a newly opened property. But I do not want to promote it here as I consider it as way too expensive! A room for two costs 240,000 JPY (2,100 SFR/US$) per night. Although it is inclusive gourmet full board (without drinks) and one activity a day, I do not think that it could be worth the expense. In case you are interested in this option and have troubles finding it, get in touch …

But now to the ryokan we stayed at in Kiso Valley.

Takimi Onsen Inn Nagiso

Location/Owners

The small ryokan is idyllically located amidst a forest and overlooks a picturesque waterfall.

You can reach it from the Nagiso station in fifteen minutes by car. As mentioned, the ryokan owner, Koike, collects you from here, if you should need it. He speaks English, although I think he learnt it mainly by teaching himself. Anyway, he is a very nice person, aged more than 70 but looks much younger. He has been running this inn together with his wife for 32 years.

Facilities

A particularity of Takimi Onsen Inn is, that you can book it for one party only. And be it one person only or up to eight guests. Onsite you find eight rooms. There is the master bedroom,

which my husband and I had, plus three more, on which we have not set eyes. The inn features two onsen, each with an inner and outer basin, complete with shower and washing facilities.

And there are two (gender-separated) toilets onsite. If you are here as a couple, only one is available to use.

As to the onsen, it was so relaxing to soak in the hot water and to contemplate the thundering waterfall at the same time! While the facilities are well kept and very clean, they have not been updated recently. What bothered me most, was the fact that there are no en suite bathroom and toilet. You have to leave the room to use those. Having said that they are for your exclusive use. You do not have to go far to reach them yet it is still unusual. However, if you are not as fussy as I am, it will probably not be a problem for you. A nice touch was it also that the owners offered to do the laundry for us!

Food

The food here is amazing! On our first evening, Koike treated us to an inside fire pit dinner.

He prepared shabu shabu, food cooked in a hot pot, and grilled wagyu beef, vegetables and mushrooms. He served also salmon and horse sashimi, rice, miso soup, pickles

and a small fish from the grill. You have to eat the latter as a whole – if you dare -, and it was so delicious, as the rest of the meal!

Our second dinner was a highlight, too! This time it was sukiyaki, under the lead of Koike’s wife, Kazoku.

She is also a very friendly yet only speaks a few words of English. As to the meal, you also cook food (wagyu beef, tofu, vegetables and mushrooms) in a pot yet in contains rather a sauce than a broth. After being in the pot, you dip the ingredients in raw egg before eating. And it was delectable! Later on, the owner brought noodles, which you also cook in the pot. Along with the sukiyaki, tuna sashimi was on offer.

Pricing

Staying at Takimi Onsen Inn does not come inexpensive, especially if you lodge here as a couple. But it is absolutely worth the price. It cost us 58,800 JPY (540 SFR/US$) per room and night, including dinner (without drinks).

2. Yakushima Island, a hidden gem in Japan

Why visit Yakushima Island?

Location/Particularities

The term “magic” is ubiquitously used nowadays, but Yakushima Island is definitely one of the places that qualifies for it! Walking around in its forests full of fairytale-like trees covered with moss, from which are many more than thousand years old, is one hell of an experience! But let me come to the essentials.

The island, located 61 km (38 mi) south of Kyushu, has been a UNESCO world heritage since 1993. And it is known for its numerous natural wonders. Yakushima’s mountainous interior is covered with subtropical rainforest. This one is home to some of the most ancient trees in Japan, cedar trees known as Yakasugi. The island is not large, you can drive around its perimeter in about three and a half hours. Apropos getting around, it is absolutely necessary to rent a car to fully appreciate Yakushima’s offerings. And the public transportation system is not that well developed.

I have to mention one more thing. The island is Japan’s wettest place. And the annual precipitation is one of the world’s highest. Therefore, be prepared and bring your rain gear …

Activities

Yakushima offers great options to do some hiking in its extensive and hauntingly forests. Both Shiratani Unsuikyo Ravine (the most popular choice)

and Yakusugi Land (quieter) feature some superb hikes.

Then as said, driving around the island’s perimeter is an awarding thing to do. This is especially true for the Seibu-rindo Forest part with lots of monkeys

and deer around (drive extremely slowly and carefully).

Furthermore, activities in and around water are also an option. Opportunities include chasing waterfalls (possibly the best one is Ooko-no-taki),

soaking in the seaside Hirauchi onsen or making use of the good snorkeling and sea-kayaking spots. Please also refer to my Google Map where I listed things to do in a compact form.

As to luxury accommodation, possibilities to stay in style are scarce on Yakushima. Actually, there is only on hotel that deserves the label “luxurious”.

Where to stay in style on Yakushima Island?

The one and only luxurious accommodation on the island is Sankara Hotel, where we stayed. Despite the lack of competition in the upscale hotel segment here, this is absolutely a good choice!

Sankara Hotel & Spa Yakushima

Location/Rooms

The Sankara Hotel is remotely located on the island’s south. It is set amidst lush tropical forest, on the hillside and overlooks the sea.

When it comes to which room to choose, there are basically two options. On the one hand, you can opt for an accommodation in the main building where you can benefit from sea views (five rooms). This is the more costly way to enjoy your time on Yakushima.

Alternatively, you can go for one of the twelve stand-alone villas (with two rooms each) that are deep in the forest and with no sea views.

That is what my husband and I did. We chose a room on the upper floor which comes with a small additional charge. These Samudra Villas are very large (53 sqm), luxuriously appointed and feature a balcony.

Views are of the surrounding woods. This kind of room comes with a daybed, which is nice. Unfortunately, ours featured the not so great view of the neighboring villa.

We liked our accommodation, although it could use a little touch up. The propriety opened about ten years ago, and the extremely wet climate contributes to its aging quickly.

Facilities

There are two restaurants, which I will go into in the next chapter. Further, you find here a fitness center, a library lounge where they serve snacks and drinks in the afternoon. On this occasion, there is a self-service beer dispenser in use, which impressed my husband deeply.

Other amenities include a large outdoor pool (only open in the summer season), a car rental service (a must-have here), laundry services and washing machines for self-use. Furthermore, transfers from and to the ferry (Ambo Port) and to Yakushima airport are complementary.

Food

As mentioned above, you may choose between two restaurants. On the one side, there is the casual fine dining Ayana

that serves well-made Japanese French cuisine.

This is also the place where you dine when being on half board. And you get a fantastic breakfast here with exquisite freshly baked good from the onsite bakery.

One the other side, there is Okas, the signature Japanese French dining-spot. Here you get elaborate cuisine in a pleasant ambiance. My husband and I had an excellent nine-course tasting menu here. I am not completely sure but I think that this kind of meal (omakase) is the one and only way to have dinner here. And I am not certain about that point too, Okas does not have a listing at the Michelin guide because they do not review this part of Japan.

Highlights of our dinner were the grilled bonito with egg yolk confit and mushroom juice

as well as the grilled Kagoshima beef with seasonal vegetables.

I recommend opting for a counter seat at Okas to witness the action going on in the open kitchen. Here the chef performs his culinary magic behind an array of pots and a grill,

while his team in front of him prepares cold dishes and arrange plates.

Dining here comes with an extra charge of 6,170 JPY (57 SFR/US$) per person when being on half board. While this is considerable, it is worth its high price tag. Okas belongs to my list of top dining picks on our Japan trip.

Staff/Pricing

You get assigned a butler. Ours was Eri who did a good job. As to service orientation in general, staff was immaculate at the front desk and at the upscale restaurant (Okas). However, we had some issues at the Ayana Restaurant. On one evening, servers were very busy. When my husband complained of our seats being too drafty, our waitress was not really helpful.

Having said that, the overall experience here is good and I would stay here again. This despite the fact that rates are quite high (116,600 JPY per day and room including half board, about 1,034 SFR/US$).

Date of visit: November 2019

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Japan as travel destination 

Route options: “Golden Triangle” vs longer alternatives

Final itinerary: “2nd Golden Triangle” & 3 rural additions

both located amongst the Japanese Alps. And funnily enough, they are equally called “Little Kyoto” along with some other towns too. In-between we also visited two villages in the Shirakawa-go region and in a neighboring one. Again, we had to make changes at the itinerary. Takayama would have been the logical choice on the way to Kyoto, but the Kanazawa marathon took place on our initial arrival day. And again this meant that there were no hotel rooms available.

as mentioned, was next on the list complete with a side trip to Nara

(Japan’s first permanent capital, by train). And here was also the place where we (reluctantly) returned our rental car. We had liked very much the flexibility of this mode of transportation. From this point of time, we mainly got around by train.

For this purpose, we had acquired a Suica Card on our arrival in Tokyo. This is a prepaid smart card that you can use for most public transport and shopping. In the latter context, I recommend going to the 7-Eleven shops. They offer a great selection of quality goods and are different from the ones outside of Japan.

with another side trip to Himeji (castle, by train).

And further on we went to Fukuoka (Kyushu) by Shinkansen where we immediately boarded a plane to Yakushima.

This lesser traveled, subtropical island is famed for its old cedar forests. One more time we were forced to make adjustments at our travel plan. Originally we wanted to fly out from Osaka, but all the flights from here on our date of departure were already gone one day after being ready for booking. As we thought due to a long weekend taking place at this point of time!

And, as said, our Japanese journey ended in Tokyo,

after flying out from Yakushima via Kagoshima, which was no big deal.

So much to our Japan itinerary. In the following a few words to the things you can do on the route we opted for.

 

Activities “2nd Golden Triangle” & 3 rural additions

You find detailed information of attractions in my Google Map. Here, I will go into the general nature of things to do in the different places.

 

In Hakone, a mountainous town not far from Tokyo, it is all about viewing Mount Fuji, the holiest mountain in Japan. Furthermore, you can explore the natural and man-made wonders of Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park.

 

Kiso Valley is the place to experience a great example of historical rural Japan. And this in the charming old postal towns of Magome and Tsumago, which are connected by part of the Nakasendo Trail. The latter is a super hike to do with lots to see. And it is not too strenuous. I will go more into details in one of my next blogposts.

Kanazawa and Takayama are both towns – the former a large town, the latter a small one –, which were spared by the World War II. Therefore, they have lots of period wooden merchant houses, which are delightfully preserved. Kanazawa has in addition to this a famous garden and a samurai history. Between these two towns, you can find three villages (Ogimachi, Ainokura

and Suganuma) with A-frame farmhouses. They are known as gassho-zukuri, which is quite a sight.

 Kyoto is the city in Japan that is from a cultural point of view the most important one with its more than 1,600 temples. Go not only to the top attractions but visit also less popular ones as this allows you to escape crowds. Sightseeing in Kyoto involves a lot of walking as many highlights are close together. Work your way from one neighborhood to the other. A side trip to Nara with its important (and large) temples complete with an abundance of deer is quite a worthwhile thing to do. In my opinion half a day is sufficient for this. For a three and a half-day itinerary, refer to my Google Map in the next paragraph.

The neighboring city of Osaka is quite different from Kyoto as here it is all about shopping, from very whimsical shopping streets to “normaler” ones. A side trip to Himeji to see the beautiful castle is well-worth doing.

 

Yakushima, a short distance away from Kyushu’s south coast, is a secluded and largely unspoilt nature paradise famed for its old cedar forests. And luckily, you can see its main sights in a few days. Activities include driving around its perimeter and hiking (attention: quite hilly with steep climbs and extremely wet climate). More about our stay here you find in one of my next blogposts.

Last but not least, the megacity of Tokyo is impressive just because of its sheer size. Must-dos to realize its dimensions are taking in its panoramic views. Good choices for this are Tokyo Skytree, Tokyo City View and Sky Deck. Make your way from one neighborhood to the other and visit the particular attractions. This involves long walks but also using the subway and busses quite often. Have a look at my Google Map below where I propose a three-day route.

This is it what I wanted to share with you about our Japan trip as to itinerary and activities. I will not go further into the well known places in Japan just as Kyoto or Tokyo. So much has already been written about them on the internet. However, there will be a post about our stays in the lesser visited spots of Kiso Valley and Yakushima Island in the time to come.

 

But here and now to my Google Map of Japan I keep telling you about.

 

My Google Map of our Japanese journey in style

My apologies for making you wait until the end of my blogpost for my Google Map of our three-week trip across Japan in style! It comes with all our activities, hotels and restaurants including short descriptions and pictures. A tip: do not view pictures with Safari, as they often do not show with this browser.

 

 

If you are not only interested in the itinerary and things do in the particular places, then stay tuned. My next three blogposts will be about the topics of upscale hotels

and gourmet restaurants (and find & reserve them)

in Japan. So much in advance, it is no easy thing as Westerner to figure out where to go for luxury travel in the land of the rising sun. And the same is true when it comes to make reservations once you have come upon adequate places!

 Date of visit: November 2019

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3 tours in eastern Bali

1. Trekking from Kastala to Tenganan

you walk up to a narrow water canal

that is used by farmers to irrigate their fields and follow it for about an hour, always along a rain forest. While doing so, you have beautiful views of rice terraces and other fields with mount Agung as a backdrop.

You can watch farmers working and pass a variety of tropical plantations with bananas, coconuts and much more.

Just before leaving the water canal there is a warung (restaurant) with coconuts and other drinks and food on offer. Then the descent through dense forest toward Tenganan begins,  lasting also about an hour. Along the way you pass several temples

before reaching the traditional village of the Bali Aga, the pre-Hindu original people of Bali.

Walking around in the ancient Tenganan is nice enough, although it is rather touristy with many crafts shops. At the end of the village you have to pay a fee once again. And hopefully, the car is here to bring you back to the hotel.

When staying at the Amankila Hotel, the trip takes about three hours in total (one hour driving and two hours walking). It is a great way to experience typical landscapes of Bali and getting to know an isolated, “time forgotten” village.

The next two tours are drives, one to the west of the hotel we stayed (Amankila), the other to the east. Both require about three to four hours of travel time (driving and exploring). In case you do not have that much, I will advise on an abbreviated tour at the end of my post.

2. East of Manggis

While it is certainly not worth a special trip, it makes a good photo opp when the flowers are open.

Next on the list is one of my favorite places in east Bali, Taman Ujung water palace, built by a king of Karangasem.

The palace was destroyed more than once and restored each time to its former glory. Together with several large pools and set against a backdrop of Mount Agung as well as the shoreline, it makes a feast for the eyes.

Not far away, the royal palace of the Karangasem dynasty, Puri Agung, can be visited. It is not a single building, but several palaces scattered in the vicinity of Amlapura.

A 15-minute drive away, the sister property of the Taman Ujung, a second water palace awaits you. This is about Taman Tirta Gangga.

This is another preferred place of mine! Again, it was built by a king of Karangasem. Later on, it was almost entirely destroyed by a Mount Agung eruption. Luckily, they rebuilt it. So that the maze of pools and fountains, surrounded by a lush garden, stone carvings and statues can be enjoyed to the present day.

3. West of Manggis

Further on, just off the main road east of Klungkung, is Pura Goa Lawah, the “Bat Cave Temple”. This is one of the six holiest places of worship in Bali.

This temple is set in front of a small cave inhabited by thousands of bats. Worshippers believe that they are the temple’s guardians.

The temple itself is – in my humble opinion – not overly worth seeing. And the smell coming from the bat cave is rather unpleasant Yet it is fun to watch the hanging bats.

If you are into rice fields, there is a recommended stop in Sidemen. You come to it when driving on inland towards Bali’s “mother temple” of Pura Besakih. I do not consider the rice paddies as impressive as the ones in Tegallalang north of Ubud

but it is nice to have a look at them once being in the area. Sidemen is also known as home to some of the best traditional textiles in Bali. It is worth going to a weaving room and witness this intricate craft.

Then it is time to go to the before mentioned Besakih Temple, the holiest of all in Bali. At the same time, it is the largest one with various “sub temples”.

While the complex is impressive, the place is full of dubious people who want your money. Therefore beware the scams. The entrance fee (ask your driver beforehand how much it is and count your change) includes a ride up to the temple and a local guide. But they often only grant these services, if you ask for them. It can well be the case that this visit might be devoid of any spiritual energy … I suggest that you should have a quick look around the site and not get involved in conversations with (potential) scammers.

4. Highlights of east Bali

If you are short in time and only want to see the absolute highlights of the area, I would strongly opt for the two water palaces, Taman Ujung and

Taman Tirta Gangga.

These two parklike sites, full of ponds and beautifully landscaped, are places of contemplation and serenity. This is at least the case if you visit them in the first half of the morning or towards the evening. And they are great spots for strolling around and taking in the beautiful things around you. If you want to take a swim, this is possible in Tirta Gangga where several pools are available for this purpose.

As mentioned in my second last post – and first one about Bali, at least as to our stay in 2019 –, I also went to Singapore.

And this the third time in a row. Come back later and learn about where to stay in style here when you already were at the famous Raffles Hotel (see my review) and at a Marina Bay accommodation. Of course, I will inform about recommended fine dining establishments in this metropolis, too!

Date of visit: July 2019

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