As a significant stage in the life of my husband and mine is about to come to an end – more info to follow later this year – , we  treated us to a special journey. It is about a once in a lifetime trip to Chile. We had thought hard about where to go in South America. After visiting Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands a few years ago, we had been a bit unsure where to head next. Brazil seemed too dangerous for us, Peru rather over-run by tourists. So, we opted for Chile. And this mainly because of its many natural wonders. As always when traveling we were looking for a luxury trip to Chile. While we usually try to avoid overspending when vacationing, we miserably failed here – so much I can tell you already. But first things first.

I start with some thoughts about where to go in Chile for luxury-minded globetrotters and then come to the actual itinerary.

Traveling Chile in style

While we first thought we had had plenty of time (20 days) to explore Chile, we soon found out that this was not necessarily the case. Out of four highlights – Atacama Desert, Patagonia, Easter Island and Lake District – , we had to leave away the latter two. First of all, we “lost” three days because we had a stopover in Buenos Aires.

We opted for this not only because of this city’s beauty but also due to less flight costs when doing so (minus a bit more than 2,000 US$ for two). And second, we longed for a non-rushed itinerary. Having said that we wanted to see different parts of Chile, not only one. Yet Patagonia is usually a must for every Chile traveler boasting varied landscapes with impressive glaciers, bizarre rock formations, blue lakes and extensive steppes.

Patagonia (south Chile, from Puerto Montt to Cape Horn) luxury trip

You have to know that you can easily spend four weeks in Patagonia without seeing it all. It is said that you need about two weeks to do the mayor things here, and this in a quick way. As you might know, Patagonia has a harsh climate. As my husband and I are not too much into spending lots of time at such latitudes, we limited our time here to five days. This is about the minimum time you should come and only allows you to explore one place. My husband and I chose Patagonia’s crown jewel. This is about the Torres del Paine National Park in Southern Patagonia (see post about luxury hotels here). You can reach it by flying into Puerto Natales from Santiago in just over three hours. Then you have to drive another one and half hours to get to the national park’s entrance.

A second Chile destination: Atacama Desert (north Chile, from Copiapó to Peruvian border)

If you want to combine Patagonia with a second destination in Chile – and if you like nature – , then the Atacama Desert is your best option (see post about luxury hotels here). While the Lake District also seems to be worthwhile traveling, Atacama is something special. It is not only the driest nonpolar desert in the world but also features diverse landscapes including geysers, lagoons, volcanoes and crusty hills. As to Easter Island, you have to take into account a flight of five and a half hours in order to get there. To enjoy the island’s cultural heritage and natural beauty to the full, I suppose you should plan at least a four-day stay. So, you need almost one week for this undertaking.

Thus, we went for Patagonia and the Atacama Desert. And to be honest, both of them are not exactly off the beaten path. They suffer from overtourism, especially the place we chose in Patagonia (Torres del Paine National Park). I fully realized this only after our journey. Yet, also in the hindsight, we would make the same choices. The Lake District, the most viable alternative to South Patagonia, is considered as “Chilean Switzerland”. And we as Swiss not necessarily need more Switzerland when traveling.

Santiago & Valparaiso as urban complements to Patagonia & Atacama Desert

Around the two nature highlights of Patagonia and the Atacama Desert we built in a number of urban stays. On the one hand, we were three times in Santiago (post about staying & dining in style) – once at an airport hotel as you cannot fly directly from the Atacama Desert to Patagonia.

On the other hand, we made a three-day visit to Valparaiso (post about staying & dining in style) – a one and a half hour drive away from Santiago.

This beautiful port city is Chile’s second largest and known for its colorful houses built on the many hills that surround it – and Valparaiso is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

In total, we had five days in Santiago and three days in Valparaiso. That is a lot of time, but as mentioned, we were looking for a non-rushed itinerary. You can easily reduce the Santiago stay to three days – you probably need one of them for a stopover between the Atacama Desert and Patagonia. As to Valparaiso, two days might be enough to see the mayor sights. We had thought about exploring the wine regions near Santiago. Yet we did not come across a suitable hotel, and so we let it be.

After setting the scene as to this luxury Chile trip, I jump into the details of our Buenos Aires and Chile itinerary.

My Google Map of Chile & Buenos Aires in style, a non-rushed 20-day itinerary 

My Google Map illustrates the 20-day journey to Chile and Buenos Aires my husband and I undertook in the first half of November 2023.

You find here all the luxury hotels (Patagonia, Atacama Desert, Santiago de Chile, Valparaiso and Buenos Aires) we stayed

and the foodie restaurants (Santiago de Chile, Valparaiso and Buenos Aires) we dined,

complete with pictures. In addition, I included all the activities we did,

again with photos.

As far as our stays in Patagonia around Puerto Natales and in the Atacama Desert in the San Pedro area are concerned, I listed all the half and full days trip guided by the hotels we stayed.

With regard to the cities we visited (Buenos Aires, Santiago and Valparaiso), I indicated the routes we took to explore them (self-guided).

In the following, there is also a travel plan of this luxury Chile trip with the number of nights we spent at the respective location (plus hotel).

• 3 nights in Buenos Aires (Park Hyatt Buenos Aires)
• 2 nights in Santiago (The Singular Santiago)
• 4 nights in San Pedro de Atacama (Awasi Atacama)
• 1 night in Santiago (airport, Holiday Inn Santiago)
• 2 nights in Puerto Natales (The Singular Patagonia)
• 3 nights in Torres del Paine National Park (Tierra Patagonia)
• 3 nights in Valparaiso (Casa Higueras)
• 2 nights in Santiago (The Singular Santiago)

What is next about Chile & Buenos Aires

While I provided an overview of our Chile and Buenos 20-day luxury trip in this blogpost, my next posts will be about the details of the respective stops we did. When doing so, I will focus on the hotels and restaurants we visited. Most of them were high-end, as it was a luxury Chile trip. At one point or another, I will also cast a look at activities, yet these will no be at the center of my attention. Instead, refer to My Google Map of Chile & Buenos Aires in style where I have listed all the things we did, complete with (numbered) pictures.

My Chile short series will cover following topics:

• Patagonia (my post): Hotel The Singular Patagonia (half board) and Hotel Tierra (all-inclusive)
• Atacama Desert (my post): Hotel Awasi Atacama (all-inclusive)
• Santiago (my post): Hotel The Singular Santiago and three foodie restaurants
• Valparaiso (my post): Hotel Casa Higueras and three high-end dining spots
• Buenos Aires (my post): Hotel Park Hyatt Buenos Aires and three gourmet restaurants

Date of stays: November 2023

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Details to each stop of a trip from California towards east & back: 

In my last blogpost I gave an overview of a journey through the American southwest that my husband and I took lately, our 9th (!) in the area. Whenever we travel, we try to do this in style. This means staying at luxury hotels and dining at fine dining (Michelin) restaurants. But only if they are worth the expense. This was not any different on our recent trip, at least in the terms of intentions. Unfortunately, we encountered some difficulties, be it price wise or due to lack of suitable establishments. Finally, I managed to make an itinerary that met our requirements more or less. The aim of this post is to provide some details to the individual stops of our American southwest voyage in style.

Before doing so, here my Google Map of the trip, as a reminder.

My Google Map of our American southwest journey in style

You find on my Google Map not only all the hotels and restaurants of our trip through America’s “Wild West” but also cafés and ice-cream shops I was fond of. Furthermore, I listed all the activities we did on our American southwest voyage in style. All the things I mention come with short descriptions plus pictures.

In the following, I would like to give you some info about every place we visited. You will find out about its importance respectively its sights. Then there will be details about where we stayed and dined, plus where we went for quick bites and what we did.

From place to place in the American southwest, in style, whenever possible

After flying into Los Angeles, we proceeded to the nearby beach town of Hermosa Beach to start our American southwest trip in style. Next was one night in Las Vegas before traveling to Page in Arizona’s north. Then we went south in this American state, first to Sedona for a longer stay, afterwards to Scottsdale. From here we continued towards west in direction of the coast, precisely to San Diego. There was one more stop before reaching the Los Angeles International Airport again, and this in Dana Point/Laguna Beach in the Orange County.

1. Hermosa Beach (South Bay, south of Los Angeles)

General/sights

This is a laid-back beachfront town

not far from the Los Angeles International Airport LAX (13 minutes by car) and therefore ideal for a first stop after flying in. My husband and I already cycled along The Strand – a cement pedestrian path along the beach –

on an earlier stay. And we did the same thing again, only the vice versa. This is really a great thing to do, even if not being into biking (as I am)! Otherwise, Hermosa Beach is a pleasant place with a nice pier, a beautiful two-mile stretch of sand beach and gorgeous homes lining the Strand.

Staying & dining in style in Hermosa Beach

In terms of staying in style, there are two options. The (more expensive) one is directly on the beach, Beach House,

the other (opened in October 2021) one, H²O Hermosa,

is a few steps from the beach. My husband and I went for the latter – as we cared for having twin beds – and were satisfied with what we encountered (a breakfast bag was included).

As to dining in style, we had two great meals here. On the one hand, we had lunch at the newly opened Restaurant Ryla

(3 minutes by foot from our hotel), a modern Izakaya style eatery (casual Japanese), and experienced not only superb food but also good hospitality. On the other hand, we dined at Baran’s 2239

(Michelin Bib Gourmand), a lovely little bistro on the Pacific Coast Highway (21 minutes by foot from our hotel), and enjoyed well made contemporary Californian food in a welcoming setting.

2. Las Vegas

General/sights

On our way to the east, we made a “stopover” in Las Vegas.

We had opted for a one-night stay at this resort city in the Mojave Desert not primarily for its sights but for its excellent hospitality offerings. Notwithstanding that, we did not miss the chance to visit three attractions in its surroundings. We went to Seven Magic Mountains,

an art installation by a Swiss artist, the Red Rock Canyon State Park,

colorful rock formations, and the Valley of Fire State Park with similar sights.

Staying & dining in style in Las Vegas

There is truly no shortage of choices for staying and dining in style in the “Sin City”. If you arrive on Monday, all the better. At that day, room rates are often lower than at other times. My husband and I made use of a great offer at Encore Tower Suites

where we got hold of a fantastic, updated hotel room at a reasonable price.

As to dining, we had a memorable Imperial Peking Duck Tasting Menu at the in-house Chinese Restaurant Wing Lei.

It was definitely one of our trip’s culinary highlights. And the dining room (or better hall) is quite impressive too, although it is a bit loud in here. An interesting detail with Wing Lei is that it was the first Chinese restaurant in North America to earn a Michelin star (however Michelin does not rate Las Vegas restaurants anymore). Then it is also one of the Forbes Travel Guide Five-Star winners .

3. Page (north Arizona)

General/sights

After splurging in Las Vegas, we were up to a more frugal experience in Page

– as you find here midscale hotels at best. But first to its sights. This small town at the northernmost edge of the Arizona desert has much to offer in terms of nature wonders. While I long thought this was about the Horseshoe Bend

only, a horseshoe-shaped meander of the Colorado River, I was taught otherwise. Apparently, it gained infamous recognition for another site too, the Antelope Canyon, a slot canyon made of sandstone with famously undulating walls. Both have turned into social media darlings in recent years and draw lots of visitors.

After reading not so favorable reviews about Antelope Canyon (overcrowded), I decided to go to the Waterhole Canyon

instead. It was a good experience, although our guide was somewhat grumpy. And imagine, my husband and I had the canyon to ourselves, and this despite being on a guided group tour (the only possibility to visit this and the Antelope Canyon). Of course, we also had a look at the Horseshoe Bend, which is a short thing (you need one hour maximum for it, and you can go on your own).

Staying & dining in Page (not so much in style)

In spite of all this hype, Page has retained its small town character. It remained an unassuming place, however with lots of new chain hotels that all look alike. We had opted for the Country Inn & Suites by Radisson

because of its solid reviews and relatively newness (opened in April 2018). And it was okay but nothing more (spacious room but tiny bathroom, breakfast buffet included – but we skipped it). In case you are a big spender, why not pay around 4,000$ a day for a room at Amangiri, an ultra-luxurious hotel about 23 minutes by car from Page? It is up to you, I personally think that is absurdly overpriced. No hotel room in the world is worth that sum, or am I wrong here?

With regard to dining, we checked out all the restaurants in Page but could only warm to one, Sunset 89.

It is a simple eatery on the edge of the canyon off Highway 89. On offer here is nicely made Island Pacific Rim cuisine in a casual setting. You cannot make reservations here, just show up and take on the wait. But the views of Lake Powell and the Glen Canyon Dam behind the building make it more pleasant. Staff is friendly yet a bit on the stressed side. If you look for a breakfast place in Page, LP Espresso

is a pleasant spot for grabbing hot drinks and quick bites.

4. Sedona (central Arizona)

General/sights

When my family traveled the American southwest back in 2012, we had a short stay in Sedona after visiting the Grand Canyon. I absolutely fell in love with Red Rock Country,

as it was also called. And I wanted to return. But I think we have waited too long. In the meantime, it became a “world class destination with 4 million visitors per year” (visitsedona.com). Anyway, it is known for its colorful, surreal red rock formations that are ideal for hiking and biking. Furthermore, it seems to be a great hotspot for psychic energy. In addition, it has also become an art community.

My husband and I came primarily here for hiking. And it is really great for that with more than 200 trails and over 400 miles in the area (visitsedona.com). However, go better in spring or fall if you wish to do so. We were here in early summer – when it is a bit too hot for exercising outdoors – , but at least the trails were not so crowded at that time.

Staying & dining in style in Sedona

Sedona turned out being a hard patch as to staying in style. We already knew the “star establishment”

in town from our earlier stay but did not want to return (see my hotel review). The other one “in this league” is far away from the town center and does not really get great reviews. So, we settled for one that was a bit more “low key”, the newly opened (October 2021) The Wilde Resort & Spa

(the former Sedona Rouge Resort & Spa). While we liked our spacious room (Grove Signature) with a generous bathroom and the beautifully landscaped garden, we found the ambiance a bit “staid” (staff at reception and restaurant).

When it comes to dining in style in Sedona, you have quite a choice. You have to know that there is no Michelin Guide for Arizona (in contrast to California), so I had to depend on recommendations from Eater Travel (eater.com). We experienced a good mix of more casual dining-spots (Elote Café,

modern Mexican cuisine [Book well in advance!]; The Hudson,

modern American cuisine) and more formal ones (Dahl & Di Luca Ristorante Italiano,

Mariposa Latin Inspired Grill).

In terms of food, setting and views, I liked Mariposa Latin Inspired Grill best (but it has its price). As to coolness and views, I was fond of The Hudson.

As we had a longer stay in Sedona, I have also suggestions for cafés and ice-cream shops. If you are into healthy food, Local Juicery

is a must. In case you have a sweet tooth, then do not miss Layla’s Bakery.

And if you love ice-cream, I adored the one at PussyCat Gelato.

5. Scottsdale/Phoenix

General/sights

Before returning to the Californian Coast my husband and I wanted to one more stop in Arizona. After long wavering between Tucson and Scottsdale, we chose the latter, particularly due to its better offerings for staying and dining in style.

We have been here already, end of the 80s, and we knew that we were in for the hottest time of the year. So, we wanted to take it slow here. That meant one activity rather early in the day – Taliesin West,

Frank Lloyd’s winter home -, then spending the afternoon around the pool in the shade. A short look around Scottsdale’s old town

was on our agenda before dinner. A great thing to do here is also the Desert Botanical Garden, what we did on our previous stay.

Staying & dining in style in Scottsdale

For our two-day stay in Scottsdale, we had decided on a four-star property, Mountain Shadows.

This because we could not entirely warm to any of the fancier hotels in town – which are plentiful. We liked the cool and relaxed vibe of this newly rebuilt accommodation (in 2017). Above all, the spacious pool area was a great spot to hang out and to have a drink.

When it comes to dining in style, we had the most fabulous dinner of our USA southwest trip here in Scottsdale. And this was at ShinBay

in the old town. The chef, Shinji Kurita, together with his sous-chef Suzuki, offered a true epicurean experience. We were simply blown away by his creations, which were traditional Japanese yet with a twist. While it certainly was no bargain (225$ per person without beverages), it was one of the best Japanese meals we ever had, and we have had our share on our three-week Japan journey!

In addition, we had dinner at our hotel, at Hearth ’61,

which showed a sound performance. And there is also a branch of PussyCat Gelato

in old town Scottsdale, the ice-cream shop that I had discovered in Sedona.

6. San Diego

General/sights

As I have already written a post about this city in the past, there will be no more info about it. One exception: my husband and I were aghast to be confronted with San Diego’s homeless problem in downtown, where we resided (see below). I will not go into details (if you should be interested, google it; there is much to find about it). But if the city does not find a solution for this problem, the tourist industry will suffer.

In terms of activities, we walked to Little Italy

(from the Gaslamp Quarter), which has a vibrant restaurant and bar scene and back along San Diego’s bayfront. En route we made a stop at the USS Midway Museum,

the longest-serving aircraft carrier in the 20th century, which was an interesting thing to do. The same is true as to our short trip to Cabrillo National Monument.

Staying & dining in style in San Diego

As mentioned, we stayed this time in downtown San Diego in the heart of the historic Gaslamp Quarter. While this area has its charm, it unfortunately is affected by a big homeless problem (see above). We stayed at the luxurious Pendry San Diego

and liked our stay here (nice enough room, friendly and helpful staff, good breakfast). It is a fairly new hotel (opened in 2017) that masterfully blends modernity with tradition. Rooms are all the same size (suites are different) but vary as to view and floor. Go for one on a higher floor (street noise). What irritated me a bit on the room, was the disproportioned wet area (tiny sink – oversized shower). But otherwise, it was fine!

As to dining, we went to two Michelin listed restaurants. My favorite was Callie,

a cool, laid-back eatery with Mediterranean/Middle Eastern food. My recommendation is to order the tasting menu (70$) plus wine pairing (40$), which allows you to sample a bit from everything. We also dined at Animae,

which did not meet all our (high) expectations. Whereas it convinced with its looks and its food quality, the ambiance was not sophisticated and the service spotty.

If you are an ice-cream lover, here is a great place to go: Gelato Love

(RoVino The Foodery in East Village). You get here delicious, lower-calorie ice-cream. We were so fond of it that we even visited their home base in Carlsbad (Village Faire Shopping Center) on our way north!

7. Dana Point/Laguna Beach (Orange County, south of Los Angeles)

General/sights

We have been to Dana Point respective Laguna Beach

many times in the past, but we have never experienced it that crowded. More than once we got stuck in the traffic, something that has never happened to us here before. It seems that this lovely seaside town, located south of Los Angeles, has found lots of other fans! And this does not come as a surprise, in view of its beautiful coast with sandy beaches, tide pools, ocean bluffs and sea caves. For more information on Laguna Beach and the Greater Los Angeles area, check out my earlier post.

On our recent stay, my husband and I spent our time here walking/hiking Dana Point

(info about parks and trails). This was not only rewarding but allowed us to get away from the crowds in many cases too!

Staying & dining in style in Dana Point/Laguna Beach

I already let you know in my previous post that we decided against staying at a resort in Dana Point

where we had been twice in the past. And this because we considered its pricing as excessive. So, we had to find an alternative, which turned out to be no easy thing. Finally, without being totally convinced, we chose the signature room, the Luxury Tower Guestroom,

at Blue Lantern Inn

in Dana Point. While the room was great – with exception of the bed, which was way too bouncy for us – , we felt like being in the wrong place. Do not get me wrong, the hotel’s setting – overlooking the Pacific –  is stunning. Also the breakfast was surprisingly good, in view of not being served. But overall, the hotel was too “midscale” for us.

With regard of dining-spots, we went to a long time favorite of us, 230 Forest Avenue

in Laguna Beach. This casual, vibrant eatery still knows to persuade with well-made Californian cuisine with a twist, and this after having been continuously operated since 1995!

Furthermore, we dined at two Michelin listed restaurants which were new to us. On the one hand, we had an excellent meal at Marché Moderne

in Newport Beach, a contemporary French venue in a mall. Not only was the food divine, but it is also an elegant, tastefully furnished place. On the other hand, we had a fine dinner at an Italian restaurant, Oliver’s Osteria.

While we liked the authentic cuisine and the pleasant service, it was a bit hectic on our visit (there was a big tent in front of the eatery where they also hosted guests – as all the other nearby spots).

And once again, a recommendation for tasty ice-cream! And this is a shop where we have been several times already, Gelato Paradiso.

It was founded back in 1999!

Date of stay: July 2022

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Wondering where to go in the southwestern United States not only for sights but also for travel in style? And this without breaking the bank? My husband and I tried to do so and succeeded in many cases. But – as you may have guessed from the headline – it is no easy thing, due to increased prices or for lack of suitable establishments. Travel in style – think of staying at luxury hotels and dining at (Michelin) fine dining restaurants – has become increasingly expensive on the US west coast recently. And the offer of upscale spots for staying and dining in style is scarce in some places. As if that were not enough, it seems that overtourism has also reached the area. Notwithstanding that, we managed to compile an American southwest itinerary and embarked on our 9th (!) journey in the area. This time we flew into Los Angeles, then went east towards Arizona before returning to California’s coast.

Before going into the details of our voyage, I would like to address some related topics shortly. After a very brief look at our US west coast travel history there will be some lines to the current price level in the luxury hotel segment. This will be followed by some considerations on itineraries in the area – also as a result of grown national park tourism.

Our west coast adventures to date

I have just mentioned it, my husband and I are great fans of the US west coast. And so we have just had our 9th stay here! Our first one was more than 30 years ago, and oh my God, so much has changed since then. But I do not want to bore you with “everything was better in the past” stories. The last time we were here was in 2017, flying into San Francisco.

And I took this trip as an opportunity to suggest a Californian trip in five stops – find here all my posts about it.

Whereas we travelled the northern part of this US state at the time – starting in Mendocino

and going south to Los Angeles, including a side trip to Palm Springs – ,

we concentrated on California’s south coast plus Las Vegas

and Arizona

on our recent journey. But both times we ended our vacations in Orange County (south of Los Angeles).

And so I am able to compare the price level at a high-end hotel in the region, 2022 versus 2017. So much can be said, rates have been skyrocketing since then. More in the section to follow.

Increased price level in upscale hotels in the southwest USA

Maybe you have experienced it yourself, room rates at luxury hotels in popular destinations have increased lately. It seems that especially beachy vacation spots

are in huge demand. And this is no wonder as in the last two years leisure travel was often not possible. So, travelers are more than ready to spend money for their much needed and well deserved vacations. A phenomenon that is called “revenge travel” nowadays.

In addition to a strong demand, the hotel industry faces new issues. On the one hand, it suffers from labor shortages. This often results in staff reductions. On the other hand, costs for everything are skyrocketing. Not only materials are scarce but there are procurement delays too. The reasons for this are plentiful. First, there were delivery problems because of the pandemic, followed by similar issues due to the war in the Ukraine. A rising inflation was the result. This constellation brings along not only service cuts but also sky-high rates. Overall, you pay more for a room and end up with a worse service.

My personal experiences in terms of overcharging and under delivering at hotels

When planning our southwest USA journey, my husband and I were astonished to see how room rates for high-end hotels have risen since our 2017 stay. One example: At the time (end of October 2017), we paid 749$ per night (breakfast included, AAA Package) for an Ocean View Room at the Ritz-Carlton in Dana Point (Orange County).

For a stay at the beginning of July 2022, the same room would have cost 1,850$ (without breakfast)! And this without the accommodation being updated or so (it was renovated shortly before our 2017 stay). As we do not pay such an excessive price for a nice yet not so special room, we did not go for it.

At other places, we experienced a number of service cuts. There were hotels – we had booked a two-night stay at each – , where they had following room cleaning schedules. In one case, we were told that there would be no cleaning at all. At another lodging, they only clean the rooms every third day. And in another one, rooms were only done upon request.

While this did not pose a serious problem for us, we considered such a regimen as unusual. And this in particular in view of the increased room rates, where you would not expect sub-par service.

Before coming to our actual itinerary, here a few related things you better give some thoughts to when planning to travel America’s southwest. These concern general considerations – where to start, which route to take etc – but also the mentioned overtourism in the area.

Considerations on itineraries in the southwest USA – generally & in view of overtourism

Route considerations trough America’s southwest

As my husband and I have travelled America’s southwest extensively over the years (or better the decades), we have tried out various variations. Most times, we began our trips from either Los Angeles

or San Francisco,

as we are international travelers. However, this is not always the ideal starting point, depending on what you want to do. In some cases, it might be better to fly into Denver, as we did once.

Let us take the example of starting and ending in Los Angeles and heading east in between, as we did on our most recent vacation. You have to know that there is some kind of “gap” between the coast and the “touristic” inland. Here “in-between” you do not find many sights and no places for staying and dining in style. This leaves you as discerning traveler with two options. You can either go via Las Vegas –

what we did – , or via Palm Springs –

where we were on our last trip. For your way back to the coast, you take the one you have not done yet. As alternative – especially if you want to include Phoenix/Scottsdale or Tucson into your travel plans, there is also the route to San Diego –

as we opted for on our recent journey.

Overtourism in southwestern USA

Now to one more fact what makes traveling in the area more complicated and unpleasant too, the overtourism. As you certainly are aware of, there is a post-pandemic boom in nature respectively national park tourism.

While this kind of tourist activity has grown steadily for decades, it has accelerated since the 2010s (Bloomberg). And sadly, most national parks

and other nature attractions in the American southwest are crowded at many times of the year. As a consequence, it may be better to visit them in the shoulder respectively off-seasons or to switch to “second-rate” sights. In our case, we went this year end of June/beginning of July, and in Page we chose the Waterhole Canyon

over the Antelope Canyon.

But enough complaining, I come now to the actual topic, our American southwest itinerary.

Our California-Nevada-Arizona 16-day itinerary in style

Definitive route

Considering that we have been in the area many times before, we were not eager to do the same things all over again. And of course, we wanted to avoid revisiting a place that is now crowded and was not on a previous stay! We had not been to Page yet (Horseshoe Bend

and Antelope Canyon) and wanted to explore Sedona in greater details – we got to know and love it in 2017 on a (too) short stay. So, these were the two fixed inland points. We also thought about going to Tucson but dropped it because we could not warm to its vibe (and lodging offerings).

Hence, we started in the South Bay of Los Angeles (Hermosa Beach),

heading east towards Page

in Arizona’s far north – with a stopover in Las Vegas –

before coming to Sedona.

Here we spent a large part of our vacations, then drove – via Scottsdale –

back to the Californian coast. We “hit” it in San Diego

and made one more stop in California, and this in Orange County (Dana Point),

before returning to Switzerland.

Our travel style

As to our travel style, one can say that we have expensive tastes in terms of staying

and dining.

We are ready to pay high prices for hotels but only if we consider them worth the expense. And this was definitely not always the case when checking out lodging for our American southwest trip. As outlined before, we wanted to stay at a particular accommodation again that we knew from two earlier visits but found it way too expensive this time. And this very establishment was no exception! So, we had to “downgrade” every now and then.

Find in the following detailed information on our California-Nevada-Arizona itinerary.

My Google Map (itinerary) of our southwest USA journey in style

My Google Maple (itinerary) includes all the hotels we stayed and the restaurants we dined on our trip through the American southwest. And they come complete with short descriptions and pictures. You find the same as to cafés or ice-cream shop we went to on our journey and considered as good. Finally, I listed all the activities we did when traveling North America’s “Wild West”.

While we usually strive for the best in terms of hotels and restaurants – without overspending – , we faced some problems in achieving this. These were either due to excessive rates – as mentioned – but also because of the lack of suitable establishments. Whereas the offer of upscale hotels is plentiful on the Californian coast, this is not always the case when traveling inland.

I will not leave my Google Map uncommented. There is the one or other thing to tell you concerning each stop. You will find some details to all the seven places we visited on our journey through America’s southwest soon on my blog!

Date of visit: July 2022

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San Diego features

At the time, it was decided to shift the center of San Diego to this waterfront location, nowadays better known as Gaslamp Quarter in Downtown. Its development started in the 1860s as New Town and eclipsed Old Town as the city’s core. It includes 94 historic buildings of which many were built in the Victorian Era. After a period of urban decay, this neighborhood underwent some renewal works and was restored to its former glory. Walking around in the area and gazing at some houses is an interesting thing to do, such as at the Cole Block Building,

or the Ingle Building.

Today, this Bayfront location is also the site of entertainment and night life venues.

A place not to be missed in Dan Diego is Balboa Park, an urban cultural park, which is home to not only green areas but also museums, theatres, art galleries and the San Diego Zoo. It features 16 unique gardens

including the beautiful Japanese Friendship Garden.

A nice place to spend some time is Seaport Village, a waterfront shopping and dining complex adjacent to the San Diego Bay in Downtown.

 From here you can catch a glimpse of the naval fleet stationed here in San Diego.

A beautiful spot to enjoy the beach in San Diego is La Jolla, a community in the north of San Diego occupying quite a long stretch of curving coastline. A good starting point is La Jolla Cove

with a little beach for sunbathing and swimming. There is also a walkway along the coast towards Children’s Pool offering great opportunities for viewing the sea and wildlife such as the La Jolla seal.

Which location & hotel to choose in San Diego

but only because of one luxury hotel, the Tower23.

This sleek, minimalist place is a great choice when being into modern lodging. My husband and I are such travelers and opted for it on our last visit to San Diego. Unfortunately, the area cannot quite keep up with the hotel, as this neighborhood is known for being one of the main centers of nightlife in town, and this especially for a younger crowd. Having said this, a nice thing to do is strolling along the Ocean Front Walk, running about 3.2 miles (5 kilometers) along the beach to the Mission Bay, which is almost always very busy.

A community, which pleases travelers in style, is the neighboring la Jolla, already mentioned in the previous section. It is a beautiful seaside village popular as domicile for affluent people. Hotels can be found here, although none catering for expensive taste and being on the beach at the same time.

Recommended restaurants in the Pacific Beach area

Another recommended dining-spot is The Fishery, located a few blocks from the ocean in North Pacific Beach. This is the place to indulge in great seafood as it is not only a restaurant but there is also a warehouse with freshest fish behind it. The atmosphere is pleasant, and the chef knows how to prepare seafood in an interesting way.

A good place for breakfast and probably lunch as well (we only had breakfast here twice) is Isabel’s Cantina, which serves Latin-Asian fusion dishes in a very casual ambiance in some sort of a converted garage. Staff is easy-going yet welcoming, and there are also healthy options available.

Overall

Last date of stay: October 2013 (hotels and restaurants rechecked on TripAdvisor in 2018)

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Los Angeles is a place that is hard to grasp for a traveler. It is a virtual impossibility to leave this juggernaut of a city in no doubt that one has seen it! After 8 (!) visits to this city, beginning in the late 1980s, I did an attempt to list my personal Los Angeles highlights accumulated over the last years. I firmly believe that this city’s character can best be captured by staying not only in one spot, shall we say Santa Monica, but in different ones. And of course, one visit to this metropolis is not enough to get a feel for it.

Itinerary 2017

Distinctions

Los Angeles is known for many of its particularities. It is the entertainment capital of the world, it is supposed to have the perfect climate – mostly sunny and warm, with low humidity and little rain – , it is a cultural mecca with an abundance of museums and it has a diverse, multiethnic population (Hispanics are the majority here). But there is also a downside, which is connected with the above mentioned decentralized structure, the traffic, probably the problem number one in Los Angeles.

Bad traffic

Where to stay & eat and what to do

Laguna Beach

When staying in this seaside resort town south of Los Angeles (1h15min from Downtown LA), you get a feel how life is in South California is when being rich and beautiful. There are many good hotels and restaurants as well as parks where to walk (Heisler Park) and to hike (Crystal Cove State Park). If you want to do sightseeing in Los Angeles’ city center, this may not be your first choice (too far away).

The same as just said to Laguna Beach is true for this resort city in desert valley (1h45min from Downtown LA). Do not visit this place in summer if you want to do more than sunbathing because it is simply too hot for anything other. Here you find stylish hotels and great dining-spots as well. An interesting feature is also its midcentury-modern architecture (e.g. Palms Springs Rendezvous Hotel on my list). Palm Springs is also a hiking paradise. The North Lykken Trail (see map) is a fine example with wonderful views and varied terrain.

Santa Monica

Combinations

My last post in this series about a Californian trip along the coast from north to south will be about San Diego. Of all major cities visited in California, this is the one that I know least about. “Only” 3 of my 8 Californian trips went here, but I think enough to get a feeling for it.

Last date of stay: November 2017

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On our trip along the Californian Coast from north to south my husband and I left northern California (Mendocino, San Francisco hotels/restaurants/activities) behind us and reached Cambria, a picturesque village in Central California, situated midway between San Francisco & Los Angeles along California State Route 1 (Highway 1).

Coastal drive from San Francisco to Cambria

Cambria features

Where to stay

both belonging to the Cambria Inns Collections and located directly on the stunning Moonstone Beach. We went for the latter as their Double Queen Full Oceanview Room met our needs best. The room had been recently updated and was solid although unexceptional. 

We felt comfortable but it was far from being an upscale accommodation. If you seek real high end lodging, then there are two establishments in the Big Sur Area but – frankly speaking – I do not consider them as places offering value for money and therefore I cannot recommend them without reservation.

Where to eat

What to do

Outlook

The subject of my next post will be Los Angeles and its surroundings. I will point out several places in and near this city where to stay and eat and things to do when appreciating the finer things in life and being into walking around a lot.

Date of stay: October 2017

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After giving tips where to stay and where to eat as travelers in San Francisco appreciating the finer things in life, there is no way around mentioning some worthwhile things to do. I am sure that you are able to name at least a few of the well-known landmarks of the city but it does not harm to recall some of them. In addition, I would like to focus on how to experience them by walking as much as possible. As mentioned in my first post about California – itinerary, first stop Mendocino – there is no better way to truly taste a place than by exploring it by foot.

Day 1

Golden Gate Bridge to Aquatic Park: views of bridge & skyline (2 h) & Ghirardelli Square – Lombard Street – Fisherman’s Wharf (2 – 3 h)

and you use the underpass to get to the Golden Gate Bridge Welcome Center (2). Do not linger here – there are tons of tourists –, but take a trail towards the water

and go to the Torpedo Wharf (3), which today is used as a fishing pier.

Continue along the bay towards east, pass Crissy Field (4), a former military airfield, and enjoy the stunning scenery, the bridge on one side, the approaching city on the other one. When you reach the Aquatic Park (5),

you are at the end of the first tour.

The second tour covers the northern waterfront, which is one of the busiest tourist areas in San Francisco, with a side trip to Lombard Street.

Ghirardelli Square (6) is right above the Aquatic Park. It is originally home of the first Ghirardelli Chocolate Factory and now a place full of shops and restaurants. After having explored this site, your next stop is the Lombard Street (7) between Hyde and Leavenworth.

This section is considered the “crookedest street in the world” with 8 switchbacks in one long block (about 15 minutes to walk from Ghirardelli Square). Then head back to the waterfront and stroll through Fisherman’s Wharf (8) with its souvenir shops, seafood restaurants, colony of sea lions and historic ships to tour. I have to admit it is not my favorite place in town, but you probably have to see it … Once you have reached Pier 39 (9),

the tour has found its end.

 

Day 2

Alcatraz (3h) & Chinatown – Financial District – Union Square – South of Market (Museums) (2 – 3 h)

 

The starting point is not far away from where the tour ended on the day before, at Pier 33 (1) where the first ferry for the Alcatraz Island (2)

leaves at 9:00 AM. As usual it is very much recommended to buy tickets in advance. Included in the ticket price is the award-winning cellhouse audio tour, where former Alcatraz inmates and correctional officers report on their life on this island. Do not miss it, it is really great! A much-welcomed side effect of this trip is also the view you can enjoy of San Francisco’s skyline.

Back on the mainland, you may explore the northeast of this city a bit closer. In a walk of about 30 minutes you can reach Chinatown (3), the oldest one in North America and the largest one outside of Asia.

Then head to the nearby Financial District and check out “The Wall Street of the West Coast” with the city’s tallest building, the Transamerica Pyramid (4).

Next stop is San Francisco’s most visited neighborhood, Union Square (5), a shopping paradise.

Finish your tour by visiting one or more of the museums in the South of Market, e.g. San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (6),Yerba Buena Center for the Arts (7) and/or the Contemporary Jewish Museum (8).

Day 3

Marina District – Pacific Heights – Painted Ladies – Golden Gate Park (4 – 5 h)

 

This day is devoted to the northern and central northern part inclusive the eastern half of the Golden Gate Park.

 

Start your walk in one of the city’s nicest areas, the Marina District, more precisely at the Palace of Fine Art (1),

one of San Francisco’s most monumental buildings with a beautiful lagoon. Head south along the Presidio, a former military base that is now a park. When reaching Chestnut Street (2) go to the section between Divisadero and Fillmore Street and check out the eclectic mix of shops, fun bars and hip restaurants.

Back at the Presidio head further south until you come to the Lyon Street Stairs (3).

These exceptionally steep and beautifully landscaped stairs bring you to Pacific Heights with its striking mansions. Explore the area, which was named the United States’ most expensive neighborhood, by walking along Pacific Avenue in western direction, passing the hotel we stayed at, Hotel Drisco (4) until Fillmore Street (5). Here most of the area’s boutiques and restaurants can be found, follow it further south. After about 30 minutes you reach one of San Francisco’s most popular sights, the Painted Ladies (6).

This “Postcard Row” of Victorian houses is directly located across from Alamo Square park.

Another half hour’s walk via Hayes Street (7) brings you to the Golden Gate Park, where the de Young Museum (8) (art & observation tower),

the Japanese Tea Garden (9) (oldest public Japanese Garden in the U.S.) and the Stow Lake (10) (man-made lake with an island, pedal boats & Chinese pavilion) are worthwhile places to visit.

 

Day 4

Hike along California Coastal Trail Sutro Baths – Golden Gate Bridge (2 h) & Marin Headlands (1 – 4 hours)

 

This hike along California Coastal Trail is a great activity for nature lovers as well as fans of the Golden Gate Bridge (GGB) as you can view this impressive landmark from different angles and distances while approaching. As far as the Marin Headlands is concerned, one of the Bay Area’s most popular hiking destinations just across the Golden Gate Bridge, I only went to Battery Spencer outlook, from which you have a jaw dropping vista of the Golden Gate Bridge.

 

The starting point for this section of the California Coastal Trails runs from the Cliff House (1), a restaurant at Lands End. A few minutes later you pass the Sutro Baths (2)

a former swimming pool complex that burned down in 1966 and is now in ruins. From here the Lands End Trail winds along the coastline. Every now and then, you get glimpses of the GGB. There is a path down to Lands End Point (3), which is a great spot to view the GGB.

After leaving Lands End, San Francisco’s wildest, rockiest corner, you reach the Sea Cliff neighborhood. Go down to China Beach (4) to have another splendid view of the GGB

and to find the closest trail by the sea to resume your hike.

Shortly afterwards, you arrive at the Presidio and it is already time for another spectacular view of the GGB, now from Baker Beach (5).

Continue your way towards the bridge along Marshall’s Beach until you come nearer and nearer to it and there is an increasing number of people around. At this point, you are probably close the Golden Gate Overlook (6), the end of this hike. Take a last picture of the GGB and decide whether to visit the Marin Headlands (7) as proposed or to do it some other time.

As mentioned above, I only visited Battery Spencer outlook (8),

in fact on another day and by car, I would not know whether this other amazing viewing point of GGB can be reached by foot from the Golden Gate Overlook. Does anybody know whether this is possible?

My next post will be about Cambria, a pretty town midway between San Francisco and Los Angeles. As usual, I will report on where to stay and eat and what do do when traveling in style.

Did you try out one or more of the tours I proposed? If this is the case, do you anything to add?

Last date of stay: October 2017

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For our 8^th (!) visit to the Golden State my husband and I decided to concentrate (once again) on the beautiful coastal area. This time we traveled from north to south. The starting point was Mendocino and the final destination was Laguna Beach south of Los Angeles in the Orange County. We included also a side trip to Palm Springs east of Los Angeles as we wanted to make sure that we have at least one stop where it is warm and sunny – we traveled end of October/beginning of November. As it turned out, this precautionary measure had been totally unnecessary, throughout our stay we had the perfect weather, but this cannot be taken for granted of course!

Anyway, I will also include some information from earlier trips as we have visited the area quite often in the past years. Therefore, I will point out several recommended places to stay around Los Angeles and also write a post about San Diego in such a way that the whole California coast is covered.

General

When it comes to activities, I will go into some things to do but without claiming to give a full overview. As we know the area rather well after so many visits, we usually did not do all the typical first-timer things but were a bit choosier. Nonetheless, there are always activities that we had missed somehow on earlier trips and had to catch up on them! And we are fond of walking and hiking, therefore you find quite a lot of tips where to do this throughout our trip.

Overview

Mendocino in Northern California

Where to stay

but it has well-appointed guest rooms that come with fireplaces and include cooked-to-order breakfasts and buffet dinners.

Where to eat

When staying at the Brewery Gulch you do not have to look for dinner restaurants as a so-called “light dinner buffet” inclusive local beer and wine is included in the rate. Every evening, a delicious meal using organic and local produce is prepared.

We found that it was more than sufficient for an evening meal and did not look further to have dinner elsewhere. I especially liked the tasteful heirloom tomatoes they served and the fantastic house made pastries.

What to do

The last activity I want to recommend is again located along Highway 128. This beautiful country road is also a wine road, numerous wineries can be found in the Anderson Valley, known especially for its Pinot Noir and sparkling wine production. My husband and I chose the Goldeneye Winery for a wine tasting because they not only have high class wines but also splendid gardens and vineyards to take a short stroll.

Outlook

Our trip took us farther south to San Francisco, the City by the Bay as it is also called, and some of its surroundings. We spent this time 3 days in the heart of this amazing city and one night in Sausalito, a town in the bay area across the Golden Gate Strait.

Date of stay: October/November 2017
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The Galapagos Island, a unique archipelago just a two hours’ flight west of Ecuador’s mainland, is home to species found nowhere else in the world. Think for example of the Galapagos penguin, the flightless cormorant or the marine iguana. And the best about the Galapagos animals is their reaction to humans or rather the lack of it. As they do not have natural predators, you can get very close to them without affecting their behavior.

Why to choose the Silver Galapagos for cruising the archipelago

In my last post, I went into how to travel the Galapagos Islands. I pointed out that a cruise is the best choice if you want to travel comfortably and wish to see as many different places as possible. Furthermore, I stressed the fact that the likelihood of a quieter trip is greater on a large ship – but we speak only of 100 passengers here! Finally, I described the Silver Galapagos’ benefits in terms of luxury. There is no better way to travel the Galapagos Islands on a luxury trip than aboard this ship. Silversea Expeditions, the adventure division of Silversea Cruises, operates two Galapagos Islands itineraries, out of which we did the western one (details see here). To illustrate how life is on the Silver Galapagos, I will narrate my typical day aboard this comfortable cruise liner.

A typical day as a Silver Galapagos guest

The most important thing you have to know about the Silver Galapagos is that it is an expedition ship, although a luxury one. Cruising the Galapagos Island is supposed to be an adventure trip, however neither strenuous nor arduous, at least for a moderately fit person. This means Silver Galapagos is not your traditional luxury fleet. If you are a regular aboard “normal” Silversea ships, you might find the standard here a bit disappointing. You will find neither all the luxury touches as e.g. your favorite Champagne nor the super professional staff. Silversea is a member of the International Galapagos Tour Operators Association and has therefore to adhere to strict regulations to protect the vulnerable environment. This involves locally sourced food and drinks, local bath amenities, an Ecuadoran crew and many other things. Nonetheless, there are enough luxury touches left to please also demanding travelers. But now to the typical daily routine aboard the Silver Galapagos.

Morning

When I wake up in the morning in the Terrace Suite on deck 5 that I share with my husband, it is early but not that much so as most activities take place at a convenient time. I did have a good night’s rest as the sea was not rough – it rarely is at this time in the year – and the luxury linen felt so good. I let my gaze around the suite. Actually, we had wanted a Veranda Suite but they were all gone when we booked about half a year before. But we are very satisfied with our splendid accommodation. It is rather spacious (26.38 m2), it has large picture windows and provides an easy access to a public observation deck, there are a sitting area, a marbled bathroom with a large shower and a roomy wardrobe. I feel very comfortable in here, it is not at all cramped, except for the bathroom (only one person can be there at a time).

 

After a hearty breakfast, a comprehensive buffet with a station where egg dishes are prepared on demand, served daily from 6:30 to 8:30, we proceed to the explorer room at 07:30 to go on the first excursion of the day, a hiking adventure. We are ushered into the provided zodiacs – usually an easy affair except when there is rough sea – and after a ten minutes’ ride we have a dry landing (no wet feet) on the island. Our group of about 8 – 12 persons is accompanied by an experienced naturalist who points out all the important things to us. About two hours later, we are back aboard and are treated to cold drinks and wet towels. Alternatively to the hiking adventure, labelled as strenuous (it is easy for a moderately fit person), I could have gone on a zodiac tour along the coast with an activity level of low (sign up necessary).

At 10:15 there is time for the next adventure, beach time and snorkeling. Meeting point is again at the explorer room with the snorkel gear and wetsuit provided by Silversea. This time, it is a wet landing meaning you get wet feet! If you need assistance with snorkeling, the staff is pleased to help you with this. My husband and I can manage without it although I am far from being an experienced snorkeler. At 12:00 everyone is back aboard.

Noon

For lunch, you can either choose the grill on deck 5 or the restaurant on deck 2. You have to be early for the former as the space is limited and the place is quite busy at most times. On the contrary, the restaurant is a location where you can lunch in all tranquility. We prefer lunch in the grill as we like the outdoor seating and fortunately we have two acquaintances who always reserve two seats for us at their table, which we highly appreciate! The menu here is the same as in the restaurant: salads from the buffet (served), meat or fish/seafood from the grill, alternatively a pasta dish, and desserts from the buffet (self service). I always opt for the fish, it is constantly fresh and tasty. Today, there is delicious local fish on offer.

Also I have a glass of white wine, nearly everything onboard is included in the cost of the cruise, also all the alcoholic drinks. One comment to the sparkling wine: although I am usually a fan of it, I did not like the one onboard, which comes from Chile, you remember, all the food and drinks have to be locally sourced. But as far as the quality of wine in general is concerned, there are no complaints here.

Afternoon

At 13:45 there is a lecture by a naturalist. Although being well made and interesting, I skip it because I dozed off the last two times and I take a nap at the public observation deck in front of our suite instead.

At 15:30 it is time for a kayaking session (with previous sign up), a little bit of workout is a fine thing to do after lunch and interesting things can be seen while doing this. We meet playful young sea lions, which are interested in our canoe.

Alternatively, we could have visited deck 6 to go either to the fitness room, the spa or the hot tub

or we could have attended tea time at the piano bar to the sounds of the ship’s pianist Alfredo.

At 16:30 a one-hour zodiac tour along the coast is scheduled. This is again a good occasion to spot animals and to enjoy the beautiful landscapes. At 18:00 everyone is back aboard.

Evening

After some leisure time at our suite, my husband and I have to decide whether we should have a pre-dinner cocktail and – in the positive event – where to have it, either on the deck in front of our suite or in the piano bar. You should know that the fridge in our room is stocked to our wishes by the personal butler. But I can say this much, the content of our fridge was untouched when we left the ship after a week, we just could not make use of everything offered.

With a glass of white wine we make our way to the daily briefing and recap in the explorer room. Our brilliant expedition leader, Israel Mata, and his expedition team report on the activities of the day behind us and the one to follow. I like listening to his speeches, he does this in such a good way.

After the orientation we go straight to dinner, which is always a highlight. It can be taken either in the restaurant or in the grill. You can start dinner at any time between 19:30 and 21:00 and either on you own or together with other guests, just as you wish. There is also the possibility to have in-suite dining, just in case. The dress code in the restaurants is casual, although shorts and jeans are not desired.

Tonight, is our second visit to the grill, where I am fond of the splendid al fresco dining. As the space is limited, you have to reserve ahead. Here, they feature a so-called Black Rock Grill where you cook the meat and seafood, served rare, to your desired level of doneness on heated lava rocks. Actually, I am no great fan of this concept but here it suits well, after all it is outdoors. I opt for a tasty New York Salad first

and a fabulous surf and turf dish, Lobster and Centre-cut Filet Mignon afterwards, which is accompanied by vegetables, a side salad and a baked potato. As to sauces you can choose between natural jus, peppercorn sauce, mushroom sauce or spicy Ecuadorian sauce.

For dessert, I go for a delicious Apple Pie with vanilla ice cream and caramel sauce.

The other five nights, we have dinner at the restaurant,

where you just show up and where the staff finds a suitable table for you without problem. The menu here changes daily, here is a sample menu to give you an impression.

I usually have three courses from the extensive menu, but you could easily order four or more of them. As the size of the portions is quite generous and the desserts are not exactly light, I do not seek for more. Menus emphasize local seafood, but cuts of beef and other meat dishes are featured as well. The chef also knows how to do Italian dishes very well! The cuisine is elaborate, the food quality is great, the dishes are skillfully prepared and nicely arranged and the staff does its best to please you.

 

A starter I very much liked is Seared Galapagos Tuna, Soy Sauce & Tamarillo Salad

A favorite main course of mine was Lobster trio: Lobster Stuffed Potato Pattie, Lobster with Spicy Ginger Sauce & Lobster Vol au Vent

The dessert I enjoyed most is Banana Cheesecake

It is fair to say that also foodies will find what they are looking for, although you will probably not have your ultimate gourmet meal here – understandable in light of all the restrictions placed on Silversea by the Ecuadorian government.

Once the meal comes to an end, there is of course the option of having after dinner cocktails and late night piano with Alfredo, but tonight Israel, the expedition leader, announces a special event, about a dozen Galapagos sharks are accompanying the ship. This of course entices almost all the 82 guests on board to flock on the deck to watch this fascinating spectacle.

To end the report on this fantastic cruise some remark to my fellow guests. Quite a few of them are first-timers on a cruise, just like me. Given the fact that this is not your traditional cruise but an adventure voyage, you find here many people who does not consider themselves as cruisers but think this is the best way to explore the area. Guests are also generally younger than on the typical cruise liner. I would guess that the starting age of the passengers is in the 40s and 50s. There are also a handful of families, some with smaller, other with adult kids.

Overall

This once-in-a-lifetime destination is best explored by ship, ideally with a large one and if you would like to be pampered and if you are ready to spend money correspondingly, than there is no better choice than the Silver Galapagos. It is by no doubt the most luxurious way to travel the Galapagos Islands. People who are used to traditional high-end cruise liners might find the level of luxury sub-par. The standard here is not the same, but you have to be aware of the fact that you are on an expedition ship, however a luxury one. But also as discerning traveler you will be at ease, all the necessary luxury touches are provided for and everything is perfectly organized. It is the ultimate setting for this trip of a lifetime allowing you to fully enjoy the magic that happens before your eyes.

A note at the end: Not only the Galapagos Islands are worth traveling to, but also Ecuador’s mainland. See my posts about what to do, where to stay on a luxury trip and where to eat as a foodie.

Date of stay: May/June 2017

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The Galapagos Island, known for their unique wildlife and out of this world landscapes, had been on top of my travel bucket list for years. This year, a dream came true for my husband and I when we set out for a journey to this archipelago, located almost 1,000 km west of continental Ecuador, with its incredible endemic species and its fantastic volcanic landscapes.

How to travel the Galapagos Islands

As we only had one week to explore these enchanted islands and as we wanted to have a comfortable trip, we opted for staying on a vessel, although not having been into cruising so far. But this is the only way to see many different places with several shore landings per day. When it came to the question whether to choose a small or a large boat, we went for the latter because of having more space available and the prospect of a quieter trip. As to what ship to opt for if seeking luxury, the Silver Galapagos is the best choice. No other ship cruising the area has that many amenities and that much open deck space. Although quite considerable cost are involved with it, we went for it. We are ready to spend money for luxury travel if we get value for money, and it was indeed the most luxurious way to explore the Galapagos Islands!

 

Which Galapagos itinerary to choose

Before cruising the Galapagos Island, we visited Ecuador’s highlands. I highly recommend to this because of the abundance of natural and cultural sights to find there. Have a look at my posts what to see, where to stay and where to eaton a luxury stay in Ecuador’s Andean region.

 

Voyage journal Silver Galapagos western itinerary

Overview

On this 7-day journey aboard Silversea’s luxury ship Silver Galapagos we cruised the Galapagos Island and saw unique birds, plants, reptiles and animals that appear only here. Highlights included visiting one of the most volcanically active places on Earth, snorkeling and while doing this seeing penguins, sea lions, all sort of colorful tropical fish found nowhere else as well as seeing giant tortoises and the largest colony of marine iguanas. And the best is the animals do not go away when you approach. They do not have natural predators and are therefore fearless!

 

Day 1: Embarkation at San Cristobal & circumnavigation Kicker Rock

We embarked the Silver Galapagos at San Cristobal and after meeting the expedition team we set sail. Later on, we circumnavigated Kicker Rock, the remains of a lava cone. Frigatebirds accompanied our sail and swallow-tailed gulls could be seen.

 

Day 2: Bartolome & Santiago (Caleta Bucanero)

Then snorkeling around Bartolome’s Pinnacle Rock was on to explore the fascinating water world. Some fellow passengers even encountered Galapagos penguins and sharks.

Finally, after the ship repositioned to Santiago Island, a Zodiac ride along the Caleta Bucanero allowed contemplating the beautiful landscape and sights of several species of boobies, green sea turtles, seals and marine iguanas.

 

Day 3: Isabela (Punta Vicente Roca) & Fernandina (Punta Espinoza)

In the afternoon after the repositioning of the ship to Fernandina Island, Punta Espinoza provided the chance to see major concentrations of marine iguanas. They were literally everywhere, you had to be careful not to step on them by accident! Also a flightless cormorant was seen in action, hopping from one rock to another. Also there were many sea lions on the beach, cuddling up with each other.

Day 4: Isabela (Caleta Tagus & Bahia Elisabeth)

Heading to Bahia Elisabeth in the afternoon by zodiac, we saw the tallest red mangrove trees in the Galapagos and observed green sea turtles, pelicans, herons and sea lions.

 

Day 5: Floreana (Post Office Bay & Punta Cormorant)

At Punta Cormorant, a walk brought us to a water lagoon where we found many flamingos. Some of them took off letting us see a beautiful black and pink pattern on their wings. The sun was setting at the time we started back to our ship.

Day 6: Santa Cruz (Cerro Dragon & Bachas)

When the ship relocated to Las Bachas, it was time for another nature walk and some leisure time at the beautiful white sandy beach.

 

Day 7: Santa Cruz (Los Gemelos/giant tortoise reserve & Puerto Ayora/Fausto Llerena Breeding Center)

After a visit of Los Gemelos, two crater-like sink holes in a forest of tall scalesia trees, we headed for El Chato Farm, a private property which gets visited by wild giant tortoises most of the year.

The afternoon was devoted to visiting the Fausto Llerena Breeding Center to see the iconic saddleback tortoises after which the islands were named and to pay a call to Lonesome George, the preserved body of the last known Pinta Island tortoise, who died in 2012 without leaving offspring. After some free time in the quiet town of Puerto Ayora, the largest one of the Galapagos Islands, we returned the last time by zodiac to our ship. Our journey was over, but the memories of this unique encounter would stay forever!

 

 

Overall

Have you been to Galapagos Islands? What have been your experiences?

Date of stay: May/June 2017

MerkenMerken

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