Oh, I fell so in love with Buenos Aires, the beautiful “Paris of South America”! It convinces with a unique blend of European elegance and South American charm. You find here stunning architecture, wide boulevards and charming neighborhoods yet always with a South American flair. And to think that my husband and I only came to Buenos Aires as a stopover destination to Chile (see itinerary). Yet we planned three nights to explore it properly – here is my suggestion for a city tour in keywords (under activities on My Google Map). And this included staying at one of the best luxury hotels and dining at hip gourmet (Michelin) restaurants in Buenos Aires.

After letting you know about where to stay in style in this city, you find details to three great foodie spots in town.

Staying in style at The Palacio Duhau – Park Hyatt Buenos Aires

Of course, we wanted to stay at a hotel paying tribute to Buenos Aires’ image of “Paris of South America”. And the perfect choice here is – and at the same time one of the best luxury hotels in town – the Palacio Duhau – Park Hyatt.

The Palacio Duhau – Park Hyatt Buenos Aires’ back story

The Duhau family, renowned land barons, bought the property in the late 1920s. At the time, the existing mansion from 1898 had already been torn down. The new owners asked French architect León Dourge to design a new residence. He did so, and this inspired by Château du Marais near Paris. The result was a splendid neoclassical palace. After the building’s completion in 1934, the Duhau family used it as a residence, and this until 1995. In 2002, a local developer purchased the palace and entered into a partnership with the Hyatt Hotels.

After a 74 million US$ investment, The opening of The Palacio Duhau as a Park Hyatt property took place in 2006. Most of the palace’s original work was preserved. A new addition was an annex, a modern tower in the eastern end of the gardens.

Location

The Palacio Duhau – Park Hyatt Buenos Aires is favorably located in the poshest corners of the upscale Recoleta neighborhood. It is on Avenida Alvear, one of the most elegant and sophisticated in Buenos Aires. You find here many high-quality shops, glamorous mansions and quite a few embassies.

Yet the hotel’s setting is also good for exploring Buenos Aires’ sights. The closest is the famous Recoleta cemetery. Plaza de Mayo is less than ten minutes by car away, Plaza Dorrego in the historic San Telmo neighborhood less than a quarter of an hour. And you reach the Park Hyatt in about 40 minutes from the (main) Ezeiza International Airport.

Ambiance/Staff

As stated The Palacio Duhau – Park Hyatt Buenos Aires has a rich history and grandeur. The hotel’s palatial elegance is impressive. When entering the historic palace, towering columns, high ceilings, crystal chandeliers and marble floors await you. Personally, I liked Los Salones del Piano Nobile best (à al carte breakfast and light dishes), it is such a beauty!

And there is a lovely tiered garden area, which is considered as one of the best places in town to have a drink outdoors.

The more contemporary newer annex, the Posada Building, was – aesthetically seen – less to my taste. For me, it represents a compromise between tradition and modernity. But I imagine that it was no easy task to complement the original Palacio Building appropriately.

Staff does not fail to impress at The Palacio Duhau – Park Hyatt Buenos Aires. The service was excellent throughout our stay. Employees were attentive without being intrusive. Having said that there was a place where the service was not totally satisfactory. And this was at Los Salones del Nobile at breakfast time. Staff cleared plates on our overcrowded table only upon request. And at times you had to wait quite long for being served.

Rooms

Out of the 165 rooms in total, 23 are in the Palacio Building, 143 in the Pousada Building. The ones in the historic house still retain some of their original Belle Époque charm, the others in the high-rise have more have a sleek, minimalistic feel.

My husband and I had opted for a Park Suite in the newer Pousada Building.

Our room was spacious (72 sqm). It was kept in wood (floors and paneling) and muted tones (cream and chocolate).

The marble bathroom/walk-in closet was roomy and took up about a third of the total space. You could enter it either from the entrance or from near the beds.

We very much liked spending time at our Park Suite and also enjoying the views of the historic main building and over the Recoleta neighborhood.

Restaurants

Duhau Restaurant & Vinoteca in the historical building is Michelin listed and offers Argentinean cuisine. You can make your choice of a selection of meats and fishes, yet also some vegetarian choices are available. Gioia Cocina Botánica is also recommended by the Michelin Guide and specializes in botanical cuisine based on plants, fruits, legumes, algae and fungi. It also offers a buffet breakfast in the morning. The third in the row finally is Los Salones del Piano Nobile. This is the place for small bites and an à la carte breakfast. And all these three spots have an outdoor area too!

We did not have dinner at The Palacio Duhau – Park Hyatt Buenos Aires, yet we had breakfast here four times.  After having assessed both possible locations we opted for Los Salones del Piano Nobile. And we enjoyed the quiet atmosphere at these beautiful premises very much.

Also the food was fine, however “very American”, which means that you get way too much, especially when going for the American Breakfast (47 US$ for one).

Other facilities 

I will not name all the facilities, as they are quite many of them, check them out here. Yet I would like to point out the art gallery. You find it in a massive marble corridor that goes underneath the mentioned garden to link the historic Palacio Building and the newer Pousada Building. And it is open to the public! Do not be shy and have look around.

Overall The Palacio Duhau – Park Hyatt Buenos Aires

If you do not want to stay at one of those faceless, interchangeable hotels, then The Palacio Duhau – Park Hyatt Buenos Aires might be for you. The original building is a neoclassical palacio from 1932, the annex – a vintage tower – from 2006. And in-between you find a lovely tiered garden. Its location is great, in a gorgeous tree-lined street in the fashionable Recoleta neighborhood. Staff is immaculate as you expect it in such an establishment and the guest rooms are outstanding. Short, it definitely is one of the best luxury hotels in Buenos Aires, and if you want to know about great fine-dining restaurants in town too, keep on reading.

Dining in style in Buenos Aires

When I planned our Buenos Aires stay – think of staying at one of best hotels in town and dining in restaurants alike – , I only had the 50 Best Discovery list by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants to rely on. End of November 2023, there was a new addition, the Michelin Guide for Buenos Aires appeared for the first time – also the one for Mendoza. As it turned out, I was not that wrong. I had picked out a Michelin one star restaurant and another one listed in this guide.

A stay in Buenos Aires is not complete without eating at one of the traditional parrillas.

More about this and two other fine-dining spots follows in the next section.

Restaurant Don Julio Buenos Aires

Some background & setting

Like I just mentioned, Don Julio is a parrilla. This is a steakhouse where they grill over charcoal at a low temperature for a long time. The cuts are different and often bigger than in the U.S. In addition, the meat is only seasoned with salt and accompanied by a chimichurri dipping sauce. Back to Don Julio, it is not just any parrilla but according to the Michelin Guide in its comment to the one-star award “one of the world’s best”. As to the 50 Best Restaurants award, this restaurant is ranked No 19 and No 3 on the Latin America list.

The current chef at Don Julio is Pablo Rivero. He was in his 20s when the restaurant opened 1999 in the now trendy Palermo Soho neighborhood in a 19th-century corner property. It is said that his grandparents and parents laid the foundation of this success story, all with a background in beef farming and butchery. They refined the breeding and aging process of their beef to highest excellence.

When we approached Restaurant Don Julio on the day we had reserved – our hotel concierge did this as we were not fast enough to secure a table on the release date of the reservations – , we encountered a hustle and bustle around the place. There were lots of diners outside – it was not that warm – , and people queuing for openings. Upon entering, our eyes immediately fell on the spectacular meat display counter and the grill with the two asadores at work.

There is a main dining room and several smaller ones plus a gallery. The atmosphere is lively yet sophisticated. Staff is friendly, efficient and on hand to offer advice as to choosing the right piece of meat for you and the wine to accompany it.

Food, overall & price

Expectations were high – as you can imagine – , and they were fulfilled. I had prepared for the occasion beforehand, so I knew what to order at Don Julio for us. As I had found out that the meat serving sizes were large, we did not order any starters. And you get tasty bread, a small empañada and a small glass of sparkling wine to start the meal. For main course, we opted for a T-bone steak plus two side dishes, mashed potatoes and asparagus, everything to share.

The meat we got was a veritable highlight. After presenting the T-bone steak to us,

the server arranged it on two plates table-side, leaving the bone on site. Every single bit of it was scrumptious, packed ton of flavor and made our tastebuds sing! The side dishes knew how to please too. For dessert, my husband and I shared a Charlotte. That is Jersey milk ice cream with a warm dark chocolate sauce, poured table-side. It was also a flavorful delight.

Dining at Restaurant Don Julio is a must for every steak lover! This restaurant provides the ideal setting for a high-quality parrilla experience. While the ambiance is still casual and the service rather relaxed, the place is also clearly geared towards fine dining. It is true that you find lots of foreigners here, but that does not detract from the enjoyment. Don Julio takes his “meat responsibility” very seriously, even towards non-locals. And from what I read, Don Julio retains a huge local clientele too. Price wise, the T-Bone steak costed about 136 US$. The total check was around 300 US$ for two (with a bottle of La Gran Nave Malbec).

2. Restaurant Crizia Buenos Aires

Some background & setting

This is another long-standing restaurant in Buenos Aires fine-dining scene. Its opening was in 2004 in the Palermo Soho neighborhood. In 2021, the owners, the husband-and-wife-team of chef Gabriel Oggero and front-of-house director Geraldine Gastaldo, moved it to Palermo Hollywood. The dining spot, specializing in produce from the sea from day one, is ranked No 41 on the Latin America list of the 50 Best Restaurants in the World. And it also appears in the newly published Michelin Guide 2024.

As to the restaurant’s appearance, it is modern, kept in dark hues and dimly lighted. An eye-catcher is the three-story vertical wine cellar at the back of the dining spot.

Service on our evening was amiable, hospitable and helpful.

Food, overall & price

The menu here is comprised in five parts: Oyster Bar, Appetizers from the Ocean, Appetizers from the Farm and the Orchard, Main Courses from The Fires (Chef’s Creations) and Main Courses from Wood Fire (Charcoal & Wood Oven). I have to admit that the concept, especially the difference between the latter to sections, seemed somewhat confusing to me. While “The Fires” includes pasta, seafood, fish, lamb and suckling pig, the “Wood Fire” features fish, seafood, Peking Duck and rib eye. Be it as it may, there are lots of dishes to choose from. And if you should be indecisive, you can still opt for the Puro Mar Tasting Menu. However, this is rather pricey (224 US$ per person).

As the chef is a true connoisseur of oysters – from what I read he has been working with the same cultivator since the beginning, I opted for those as starter.

For the main dish, I chose the Patagonian Trout with a colorful vegetable and berry side dish. My husband also had the Patagonian Trout yet as a Tartar in unison with avocado to start the meal. Then he ordered the Patagonian Sea Bass that came with a potato-almond mousse and fennel. For desserts, we decided on the Dulce de Leche variation and the Chocolate Serena creation.

Everything we had was immaculately done and arranged, full of flavor and served by pleasant staff. My husband and I enjoyed our dinner at Crizia very much. In terms of costs, we spent a bit less than 300 US$ for the two of us with a bottle of wine.

3. Restaurant Chila/Amarra (Fico) Buenos Aires

Some background & setting

The third restaurant my husband and I dined at in Buenos Aires used to be a one of the best fine-dining outlets in town – ranked No 26 on the Latin America list of the 50 Best Restaurants in the World in 2022. And this for 17 long years, since 2016 helmed by Pedro Bargero. Meanwhile, it changed its concept. In 2023, the restaurant functioned as a showcase for a number of chefs/restaurants from different regions of Argentina. It did so under the name of Amarra.

You find this eatery in the heart of Puerto Madero in a former warehouse. There is a large windowed kitchen, which you pass when entering the restaurant. The premises are large, modernly styled and overlook the dockyards.

Staff is friendly and inform widely about what Chila/Amarra has to offer. On our evening, Estefanía Maiorano and Martin Sclippa (Fico) were at work.

From what I understand, the circle through Argentina’s kitchens is now closed. As from this point of time, Amarra’s team takes over to propose its own menu. This makes a tour around the country, taking the lessons learned along the way.

Food, overall & price

When my husband and I dined at Amarra, it was up to Fico, as mentioned. You could choose a three-course menu from an à la carte selection with three to five dishes in each section that costed a bit more than 80 US$ for per person. And it included – exceptionally delicious – snacks

and a pre-dessert. We went for the escabeche with mussels, saffron and pickled carrot as well as for the hazelnut port paté as starters. For mains, I had white fish with chard, asparagus and white garlic, my husband ordered a crab burger with fries. And we ended the meal with a chocolate mousse-buttermilk toffee-tonka bean creation plus a rum baba paired with fruit ice cream.

While we were not completely blown away by the food, some dishes just as mussel escabeche or the chocolate mousse dessert were very good. Other items on the menu just as the paté tarte or the rum baba were not that convincing. Both were overly large portions. Furthermore, the former lacked complexity taste wise. And the latter consisted more or less of dough plus was too filling. Otherwise, we liked the contemporary location by the water and the dedicated staff. When it comes to the check, it was the least expensive of our Buenos Aires dining. We paid a bit less than 250 US$ for two with a bottle of wine.

Looking back at my mini-series about a Chile/Buenos Aires journey

The current post about Buenos Aires showcasing one of the best luxury hotels and three fine-dining restaurants in town was the last of totally six about a Chile/Buenos Aires trip. I started with a 20-day itinerary  that focused on My Google Map of the journey complete with all the upscale hotels and restaurants we visited plus the things we did. The latter includes city tours in key words as well, and everything comes with lots of pictures. Afterwards I went into three high-end hotels in Patagonia and the Atacama Desert. Finally, I outlined how to stay and dine in style in three cities, which were Santiago de Chile, Valparaiso and Buenos Aires.

Date of stay: November 2023

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Nothing against Santiago de Chile, but Valparaiso warmed my heart more. So, if you have two or three days to spare in your Chile itinerary – here is mine – in addition to Patagonia, the Atacama Desert and Santiago, you should go there. Valparaiso is known for its colorful architecture, its steep hills with views of the Pacific Ocean and streets filled with street art. It is much smaller than Santiago plus it is very walkable, despite being hilly. That is because of its picturesque old funiculars, which bring people up and down the hills. Find here a suggestion for a Valparaiso city tour in keywords (under activities on My Google Map). And of course, I also had made sure that my husband and I stayed and dined in style in this coastal city. Thus, I can inform you about probably the best luxury hotel and three good fine-dining restaurants in Valparaiso.

I begin with lodging before letting you know about where to go for dining in style in this picturesque Chilean city.

Staying in style at Hotel Casa Higueras

There is not much choice as to luxury hotels in Valparaiso. And from what I found out, Casa Higueras seems to be the best in town it this lodging segment. So, book ahead, there are only 20 rooms, and you want to have one with sea view! In addition, this hotel also hosts one of the best restaurants in Valparaiso.

Location

Casa Higueras is located on Cerro Alegre (Happy Hill), at the heart of one of the city’s prettiest neighborhoods. It is situated at the back of a dead-end street, so you have absolute quietude here. You have great views of the Pacific Ocean, in this maze of steep slopes and winding streets. And there is a huge numbers of hip stores, cafés and restaurants nearby. Also the main sights are within easy reach.

Ambiance/Staff

The hotel occupies an elegant 1920 converted town house, oozing charm and character. It is decorated with dark wood furniture, artworks and tropical plants. The five-level building nestles along the slope with the benefits of an added tiered garden. It is a lovely property indeed and well maintained too.

The front desk staff is gracious and more than ready to help you with information where to go for sightseeing – and where not. They have great tips how to walk and explore the beautiful Valparaiso (also see My Google Map under activities). Yet all the other staff member we met – at the restaurant in particular – were very friendly, hospitable and attentive.

Rooms

I mentioned it, 20 rooms are available. The ones with sea views and balconies are of course the most desirable ones (and also the more expensive ones). There are five accommodation categories: Traditional, Premium, Premium Superior, Superior and Deluxe. Rates start at 246 US$ in the low season.

My husband and I had a Superior Twin, and we were delighted by the generous layout of our room. There was a large seating area with a small balcony offering great views of the Pacific Ocean.

And the bathroom was oversized with lots of natural light.

As to the interior design, the accommodation married traditional and contemporary decor. I think it suited the character of the house just ideally.

Restaurant

The onsite restaurant, Maralegre, is one of Valparaiso’s best. On offer here is contemporary cuisine locally sourced with an emphasis on seafood. You get traditional Chile Creole cuisine here in combination with Italian and French cooking techniques. Maralegre is known to serve some of the best ceviches in town. The premises are really nice, there is a modernly furnished dining room with lots of wood.

The outdoor area is glorious, a terrace with fabulous views of Valparaiso’s multi-colored houses and the sea.

My husband and I had breakfast here on three mornings, which was good, and once we had a fabulous dinner. More details follow in the section dedicated to the food.

Other facilities

The hotel boasts a few small communal lounges, that are very elegant,

and a spa. In the terraced garden, you also find a delightful pool along with loungers and a Jacuzzi. Plus, there is a splendid rooftop terrace, where you have best views of the surroundings.

Overall Casa Higueras

There is no better lodging option for demanding travelers heading to Valparaiso than Casa Higueras. I would even go so far as to claim that this is the only hotel that deserves the term luxurious in this gorgeous coastal town. And the excellent in-house Restaurant Maralegre is an asset too. So, go here for best upscale hotel and foodie restaurant in Valparaiso. Plus, you are at the right spot here for enjoying the best the city has to offer in terms of shopping, going out and sightseeing.

Dining in style in Valparaiso

I can say in advance that Valparaiso is not exactly a gourmet paradise. And the situation is even worse if you are here from Sunday to Tuesday, as this was the case with my husband and me. In the end, we were able to find three fine dining restaurants which were convincing enough. I had also consulted the 50 Best Discovery list by the World’s 50 Best Restaurants. And they suggested two places, yet unfortunately one of them, La Caperucita y el Lobo, is only open in the evening from Thursday to Saturday. So, that was not for us. Fortunately, our hotel – probably your best choice in Valparaiso – has a recommended restaurant too. And it is open seven days a week. I start with our experience here.

1. Restaurant Maralegre at Casa Higueras Valparaiso

I already informed you about the setting above, so I come straight to food, overall assessment and pricing.

Maralegre – with chef Francisco Guzmán at the helm since since spring 2022 – is strong in seafood cooking, so we opted for such dishes. While not everything on the menu in terms of starters was available, we opted for Abalones with Avocado Emulsion

and Grilled Octopus with Sweet Potato Puree. For mains, we had Sea Fettuccine (fresh noodles with prawns, mussels & small clams) and the Catch of the Day (grilled local fish, broad beans puree & roasted vegetable). To end the meal, we ordered Milk Flan (reduction of milk & fruit sauce) and Chocolate Mousse with Oranges (soft bitter chocolate mousse with caramelized oranges & seasonal fruit ice cream).

The food was carefully prepared and tasted good, we liked what we got. It was more substance than style, but better so than the other way round. Portions were big enough, staff was friendly and informative. Price wise, it was completely fine, we paid around 100 US$ for the two of us (with a bottle of wine). I would recommend dining here if you are looking for a fine meal in a pleasant setting. But do not expect cutting edge gastronomy.

2. Restaurant Portofino Valparaiso

Some background & setting

Here you find no cutting edge fine dining either – as in the place before -, but they know their job at Portofino. The prime benefit of this restaurant that is a bit away from the city center towards Viña del Mar is its setting. Portofino is located at Cerro Esperanza – just above the beach of Caleta Portales  – with the most beautiful views of the Pacific Ocean.

The restaurant, under the management of owner Renato Airola and chef Giuliano Olmos since mid 2021, serves Italian cuisine. The chef puts value on using seasonal produce and sources locally whenever possible, yet he also imports some ingredients (flours, cheeses, oil and different spices) from Italy.

My husband and I were seated what I think was the main dining room – there must be others, the place has a capacity for 140 to 160 guests. From what I read, there also must be several terraces, some belonging to private rooms. The ambiance was pleasant, although I found the paper placemat menus and paper napkins not appropriate for such an establishment.

While not all the servers knew English, communication was no problem. And we received good service.

Food, overall & price

The menu is extensive, you can make your choice out of six sections: Antipasti (starters), Insalate (salads), Primi Piatti (first courses), Secondi di Terra (meat mains), Secondi di Mare (seafood mains) and Dolci (desserts).

My husband and I went for a salad with pears and Gorgonzola cheese as well as Burrata with a tomato variation, red pesto and olives as starters. And wow, both dishes could have passed as mains, they were huge. My advice is to share one starter for two persons. Then we ordered Salmon & Gnocchi

and Rigatoni Tricolore (made three ways). We also had the Foccaccia della Casa, the house bread. As dessert, we shared a Tiramisù with ice cream.

Food was well prepared, appealingly presented and tasty. Not only the size of the starters was generous, it was the case with all the dishes we had. All in all, we liked our experience at Restaurant Portofino, the meal was perfectly adequate. Yet they could improve some details just as providing a decent menu (not in the form of a placemat) and cloth napkins. With regard to pricing, it was good value (around 100 USS$ for two with a bottle of wine).

3. Restaurant La Concepción Valparaiso

Some background & setting

The dinner at Restaurant La Concepción was definitely our culinary highlight in Valparaiso. I mentioned above that there are two dining spots in Valparaiso at the 50 Best Discovery list by the World’s 50 Best Restaurants, and this is one of them.

Despite my trying hard I found not much background about this place. La Concepción’s building dates back to 1880, which has been refurbished over the years. And this apparently by using its own antique wood. The restaurant was opened in late 2005 by an American couple, Jude and Robert Gerrity. And Miguel Fuentes seems to the the manager here, but I could not find any information about the chef.

La Concepción’s setting is nice. The restaurant extends over two floors, the space on the ground floor is very limited. Yet there is a rather large garden terrace with prime views of the container ships far below in Valparaiso’s working port plus of Viña del Mar in the distance. And guests – lots of non-locals among them – seemingly like to eat out there, and this also in colder weather (they provide blankets).

Out waiter was polite but not very talkative.

Food, overall & price

The restaurant offers a wide-ranging menu with a special focus on fish and seafood. Yet you also find international dishes on it. As to starters (five of them were available), we opted for Ostiones la Casa (Chilean scallops), baked with wine and cheese, and they were very good! We had one dish to share, on advice of our server.

In terms of mains, you could choose between three beef or pasta dishes or go for seafood. And the latter is what we did. Out of the seven items on the menu, I had Camarón al Curry, a red curry with Ecuadorian shrimp. My husband decided on Tuna with Oyster Sauce. While my dish was immaculate, my husband’s tuna was a bit on the less tender side. Although the accompanying mote (corn) risotto was great. The same is true for the bread that they served!

For dessert there was quite a choice too (six of them). And they were predominantly of Western origin. We shared a peanut butter cheese cake chocolate brownie combination. It came with vanilla ice cream and was delicious – and also optically appealing.

On the whole, La Concepción knew to persuade with refined and well-prepared creations, and this in a pleasant casual setting. Yet there were also the one or other imperfections just as the tuna being not tender enough or the long wait for the dessert. Yet, I cannot imagine that you find a much better dining option in Valparaiso. And the pricing was alright too, around 100 USS$ for two with a bottle of wine.

Looking back & ahead on my Chile & Buenos Aires journey

That current post, going into best hotel and restaurants in Valparaiso, is my second to last one when it comes to my husband’s and my Chile and Buenos Aires trip. Next on my blog will be the one about Buenos Aires where I will do the same as here, going into one of the best hotels for demanding travelers and three restaurants for dining lovers.

So far I have reported on the same topic as to Santiago de Chile and our experience at three high-end hotels in Patagonia and the Atacama Desert. I started the whole with presenting a 20-day itinerary where My Google Map of the trip is in center. It includes all the luxury hotels we stayed, the foodie restaurants we ate and the activities we did. As to the latter, this section also comes with city tours in keywords for all the three cities we were (Santiago de Chile, Valparaiso and Buenos Aires). And of course, photos are there too ..

Date of stay: November 2023

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The Chile trip my husband and I did – here is the itinerary – took us also to its capital of Santiago. Of course it did, you cannot fly directly from the Atacama Desert to Patagonia, for example. So, we happened to stay here three times, twice in the city center, once at the airport. Never mind, although it was not love at first sight, we grew to like this city. It is laid out like a chessboard in a Spanish colonial style. However, only a few remains of the historical building structure remain. Find here a suggestion for a Santiago city tour in key words (under activities on My Google Map). When it comes to where to stay and dine in style in Santiago de Chile, I can advise on one of the best high-end hotels plus three great fine-dining restaurants, featured on the 50 Best Discovery list by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants.

I start with laying out where to opt for a hotel in Santiago de Chile best for exploring and dining options.

Where to stay in style in Santiago de Chile 

When heading to Santiago de Chile you have to decide whether you want to stay in the old town or in the new town. These two parts are separated by the Almeda Bernardo O’Higgins Avenue. It is named after the Chilean freedom fighter, who liberated the country from the Spanish. This avenue runs through almost the entire city from southwest to northeast. North from it is the old town, south from it the new town.

If you want to be near the main sights, I suggest that you opt for staying in the city’s old part, which is at the same time Santiago Downtown.

Lastarria neighborhood in Santiago’s old town

The best place to stay in Santiago’s old town is probably Barrio Lastarria. This rejuvenated historic neighborhood with cobblestone alleys and stately Belle Époque buildings has fast become one of the hippest areas in town. This is due to its wealth of museums, art centers, trendy shops and cool cafés. And it is also favorably located as to the historic Barrio Centro (Plaza de Armas) and the bohemian neighborhood of Bellavista.

The best luxury hotel in the vibrant Lastarria neighborhood is The Singular Santiago, belonging to the prestigious hotel collection of the Leading Hotels of the World. Before coming to how it is lodging here, some information on a possible alternative of staying in style in Santiago de Chile.

Trendy neighborhoods in Santiago’s new town

While Lastarria is the ideal base for sightseeing, most upscale restaurants are further away from downtown. You find them predominantly in the Las Condes District and also in the Vitacura one. Both are in the city’s northwest, maybe 15 to 30 minutes by car from the historic Barrio Centro.

This is also the place where most high-end hotels are. Think in this context of The Ritz-Carlton, W Santiago or Mandarin Oriental. Apart from upscale lodging and a thriving restaurant scene, you encounter here also some nightlife. A few theaters are located in “Sanhattan”, as this area is also called.

After going into our stay at one of the best luxury hotels in Santiago, the Lastarria hotel The Singular Santiago, I will let you know more about three great fine-dining restaurants in Santiago’s Las Condes and Vitacura Districts.

Staying in style at The Singular Hotel Santiago

I have mentioned The Singular Hotel already in another post about our Chile trip. And this was on the occasion of our Patagonian stay. Before opening their Santiago property in 2014, the owners have already established The Singular Patagonia in the Puerto Natales area.

Location

I already went into The Singular’s location above, Barrio Lastarria. This neighborhood, which is at The Singular’s doorstep, came back to life with the opening of the nearby Gabriela Mistral Cultural Center. And it did so after being the place to be in the first half of the 20th century. At this time, everything that had rank and name built here, adopting Europe’s architectural influences. Sadly, Lastarria became neglected later on when many families moved to more modern suburbs. Yet fortunately, the neighborhood’s infrastructure stayed whole, ready to be relived in the current time!

Ambiance/Staff

Although The Singular Santiago is a new hotel, it stands out from other such ones in town. It is for sure not comparable to the interchangeable chain accommodations in Santiago’s new town. Instead it is full of character, linked to the history and culture of Chile. It is designed in a neo-classical architectural style, as a tribute to its surroundings. With its dark front and two brickwork volumes it perfectly blends into the area.

As to The Singular’s interiors, it combines modernity with gone-by times. When entering the premises, you encounter a lobby/bar area that reminds you of a gentleman’s club from the Belle Époque. Dark brown armchairs, bronze salon tables and olive green sofas go hand in hand.

And the clubby ambiance extends to the ground-floor restaurant clad in checkerboard marble floors and dark-wood paneling.

The staff in the reception area, stylishly in dark suits, completes the scenario. And also their attitude fits. Service was excellent from start to finish on our stays, nothing was too much trouble. Of all the employees we encountered, the concierge, an Englishman, stood out as the most welcoming and engaging person. Yet all the others were up to the level too. And it was so nice to be remembered when returning two weeks after the first stay!

Rooms

You can make your choice out of 62 rooms in eight categories with rates starting at about 200 US$ in the low season (The Lastarria Room 25 sqm).

My husband and I went for The Singular Twin category. On our two stays, we had both times a room with the same layout however on different floors. While I found the accommodation good enough, it was not the thing I liked most at this hotel. It was spacious (36 sqm), yet a bit on the dark side. This because the room was long and narrow with only one window. Plus, it was located at the middle wing of the building, a bit set back.

Our The Singular Twin room was kept in warm, dark colors as the rest of the hotel. It came with a large table plus chairs and two sofa chairs with a small salon table. The luxurious bathroom, of which I was fond, was sizable and clad in marble. It was split into three areas with a large sink and tub in one, then a shower and a toilet each separated by individual glass doors.

Restaurants

For a hotel of this size there is quite a number of restaurants, four in total. The flagship spot is The Singular Restaurant with a French inspired locally sourced cuisine. Then there are two bars, on the one hand the Rooftop Bar

with a great view of the San Cristobal hill,

on the other hand Bar Merced on the ground floor. Finally, you find here also Café 294, a place for business or social meetings.

While my husband and I did not have dinner at The Singular Restaurant, we had breakfast here four times, which was good. We also had drinks at both bars on several occasions and enjoyed it. Among other things, we were served the best pisco sour of our whole Chile trip at the Rooftop Bar, which says a lot.

Other facilities

The Singular Santiago’s amenities include a spa with hydrotherapy room, sauna and steam bath plus a gym. And there is also a small rooftop pool.

Overall The Singular Santiago

We had two great stays here at this fabulous Lastarria property, with all the major sights close by. While The Singular Santiago is a new hotel, it pays tribute to the old-school glamour of this historic neighborhood, which was rejuvenated not long ago. The hotel is kept in a neo-classical architectural style to blend into its surroundings. Yet it is not afraid to be modern too. Rooms are affordable yet luxurious – especially the bathrooms – , and the two bars are a huge asset. The staff knows their job well, and they deliver an excellent service to their guests. My husband and I would return here in a heartbeat!

After these details to one of the best luxury hotels in Santiago, now the same as to the restaurant scene.

Dining in style in Santiago de Chile

I mentioned it above, the best restaurants in Santiago de Chile are not in the old town respectively in downtown, but in the new town. And you can find them in the Las Condes and Vitacura Districts in particular. This means that you cannot walk to them if you happen to stay in the old town. You even have to take into account a 30-minute drive to reach them as the traffic might be bad. While this is not exactly favorable, it is doable.

There is no Michelin Guide for Santiago de Chile to consult as to best gourmet spots in town. Alternatively, I relied on the 50 Best Discovery list by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants. As we did not want to eat 10 or more courses – we dined out every day of our 20-night vacation – , we did not consider for instance the famous Boragó. Instead we rather opted for establishments with a “three- to four-course approach.” By chance, we happened to eat at two restaurants with Nikkei cuisine (combination of Japanese and Peruvian elements). I start with those before coming to one specializing in fish and seafood.

1. Restaurant Karai by Mitsuharu Santiago de Chile

Some background & setting

Restaurant Karai by Mitsuharu is chef Mitsuharu “Micha” Tsumara’s outpost in town, opened in 2017. He is considered Latin America’s best chef according to The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, and this at Restaurant Maido in Lima. The Santiago branch is located at the fancy W Santiago Hotel in the Las Condes District. It is helmed by chef Gerson Céspedes.

If you wonder about the name of Karai, it has a double meaning. It means “together” in the Quetchua language and “spicy” in Japanese. Not only the W Santiago Hotel’s appearance is striking, but this is also true for Restaurant Karai by Mitsuharu. Zen decor awaits you here with lots of wood and natural light. And we were exceptionally warmly welcomed.

Food, overall & price

As to food offerings, there is an extensive menu of Sashimi, Tiraditos, Ceviche, Nigiris, Pa’picar-Otsumami, Los Fuertes and Desserts. Instead of going for the “experience” – the chef sends dishes of the day – , my husband and I chose ourselves (I had prepared for it beforehand).

We shared a Tiradito (de Orilla), catch of the day with yellow chili sauce, ponzu, cilantro, scallops tartar and shari cracker.

And the same is true for the classic Gyoza, stuffed with pork and shrimp with spicy ponzu sauce. Then we had individual mains, Kansai Yakimeshi from the Los Fuertes section for me, Japanese styled fried rice with seafood, salmon, shrimp omelette, ankake sauce and chilli oil. My husband had a dish from the Pa’picar-Otsumami part, Yakiniku de Cordero, a rack of lamb with yakiniku sauce, chimichurri nikkei, chickpea cream and olluco pickle. For dessert we shared Ice Tea and Yuzu, a pistachio and matcha tea biscuit with papaya sorbet and yuzu-chocolate cream.

And what can I say – I am no expert in Nikkei cuisine – , yet dining at Karai by Mitsuharu opened up new worlds of taste for us. What we got was creative, expertly done and nicely arranged. And everything was extremely delicious! We enjoyed the dinner very much. Also the serving sizes seemed adequate to us. Service was professional and did not interfere when it turned out that we already had made our choice on ordering. Price wise, the check (about 150 US$ with a bottle of wine) was reasonable, no complaints.

2. Restaurant Osaka Cocina Nikkei Santiago de Chile

Some background & setting

Restaurant Osaka Cocina Nikkei in Santiago de Chile is not a standalone restaurant, but part of a Lima based collection. The Osaka brand currently operates nine restaurants in seven South American cities and an outpost in Miami. And it has existed for over 20 years. As to its Santiago branch, it used to be at the W Santiago Hotel before it moved to its current location in Vitacura in 2017. The chef here is Ciro Watanabe.

The restaurant is situated in an affluent neighborhood – we almost felt like we were in a North American city. And there are other similar – upscale – dining spots nearby. Osaka Santiago encompasses two floors. There is a dining room plus an outdoor area on the ground floor. In the basement you find the sushi counter plus another dining room. The décor is feng shui-like with lots of wood. As to the staff, they needed some time to get going. Yet with time, the service became better.

Food, overall & price

The menu here is divided in two parts. On the one hand, there is the Nikkei Bar with Sashimi, classic Nigiris, Ceviches, Tiraditos, OSK Style Nigiris and Makimono. On the other hand, you find here also Peruvian Izakaya with Zensai and Tokusen dishes.

My husband and I shared first Tiradito Perú (white fish, Nikkei uchucuta, pickled onions, sweet potato)

and an Izakaya from the Zensai section. It was Chirashi Causa (yellow potato, salmon tataki, crab salad, ikura, acevichada sauce). Then we did the same for two items from the Izakaya Tokusen part. These were Shiromi Brasa (roasted white fish, almond chimichurri and Peruvian peppers) and Kuroi Ramen (charred seafood, ramen noodles, curry squid ink cream, cherry tomato, spicy mayo). We ended the meal with sharing an Amai Toast, which was a caramelized brioche with yuzu curd, cheese ice cream and miso butterscotch.

Again, we had the same feelings as at Restaurant Karai by Mitsuharu. Each dish provided plenty excitement to our tastebuds. Everything was skillfully crafted, refined and attractively served. Also the size of portions was good. Service became better the longer we were here. The ambiance was pleasant, although for me personally it was a bit too much on the dark side (we were seated near the window). As to the prices, we found them okay for what you get. Just as with its mentioned competitor, we paid around 150 US$ for the two of us (with a bottle of wine).

3. Restaurant Olam Santiago de Chile

Some background & setting

Olam ranks 68th on the extended Latin America’s 50 Restaurants 2023 list. It is the only one of the three mentioned Santiago restaurants that was voted into it. Sergio Barroso is at the helm at this dining spot on the second floor of the 45 By Director Hotel in the Las Condes District. The property has been open since 2019. Before, he was at Restaurant 040 in the nearby Providencia District. Originally from Madrid, Barroso worked with Ferran Adrìa at El Bulli and Denis Martin in Vevey/Switzerland.

The restaurant’s design is rather special, some may say a bit peculiar. The dining room is kept in high gloss white and poison green. Huge white columns are combined with green chairs featuring a net-like pattern. Another eye catcher are the curvaceous chandeliers. The whole thing appears quite futuristic. The staff was relaxed and composed throughout the evening.

Food, overall & price

The chef has an innovative take on fish and seafood. And the dishes are ideal for sharing, what my husband and I did. We ordered 5 savory and 2 sweet dishes.

The savory ones were the following: Tina and Miso (bonito tartare & rice with ginger, ponzu oil, miso mayonnaise & wasabi),

grilled wild green asparagus (in two cooking methods, tempura & grilled with chili-zumac mayonnaise foam), smoked wagyu tartare (in oak wood with lacquered Chinese bread, red curry teriyaki & sichimi togarashi), blue crab Txangurro with cognac & yuzu hollandaise (flamed crab stew in cognac, typical of the Basque Country, gratin with hollandaise) and ravioli of smoked trout from Patagonia (with white vermouth & mascarpone cream). The sweet ones consisted of: white chocolate, peanut praline and rose (creamy white chocolate, savarin sponge cake with peanut praline & pear granita) and roasted manchego cheese (manchego cake filled with blackberry jam & cassis liqueur cream).

And the food was superb! I very much liked the chef’s eclectic creations influenced by Asian, Western & South American cuisines. Each dish was well composed, with unexpected elements in each that made it a truly memorable dining experience. As to the ambiance, on arrival I found it a bit cold, but later on when the lamps were lit it became more pleasant. When it comes to pricing, I found the check (about 150 US$ for the two of us with a bottle of wine) reasonable enough. Said that, we did not choose one of the more expensive items on the menu, for instance the langoustines.

My mini-series about a Chile & Buenos Aires trip

I mentioned our Chile itinerary at the beginning, of course we visited not only Santiago but other places in Chile (plus Buenos Aires) too. If you should be interested, we went to Patagonia and the Atacama Desert where I go into the luxury hotels we stayed (and their onsite restaurants). And there will be more posts about our city stays in Valparaiso and Buenos Aires, comparable to this one about Santiago. It is always about best luxury hotels and fine-dining restaurants worth the money spent on at the respective places.

Date of stay: November 2023

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As a significant stage in the life of my husband and mine is about to come to an end – more info to follow later this year – , we  treated us to a special journey. It is about a once in a lifetime trip to Chile. We had thought hard about where to go in South America. After visiting Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands a few years ago, we had been a bit unsure where to head next. Brazil seemed too dangerous for us, Peru rather over-run by tourists. So, we opted for Chile. And this mainly because of its many natural wonders. As always when traveling we were looking for a luxury trip to Chile. While we usually try to avoid overspending when vacationing, we miserably failed here – so much I can tell you already. But first things first.

I start with some thoughts about where to go in Chile for luxury-minded globetrotters and then come to the actual itinerary.

Traveling Chile in style

While we first thought we had had plenty of time (20 days) to explore Chile, we soon found out that this was not necessarily the case. Out of four highlights – Atacama Desert, Patagonia, Easter Island and Lake District – , we had to leave away the latter two. First of all, we “lost” three days because we had a stopover in Buenos Aires.

We opted for this not only because of this city’s beauty but also due to less flight costs when doing so (minus a bit more than 2,000 US$ for two). And second, we longed for a non-rushed itinerary. Having said that we wanted to see different parts of Chile, not only one. Yet Patagonia is usually a must for every Chile traveler boasting varied landscapes with impressive glaciers, bizarre rock formations, blue lakes and extensive steppes.

Patagonia (south Chile, from Puerto Montt to Cape Horn) luxury trip

You have to know that you can easily spend four weeks in Patagonia without seeing it all. It is said that you need about two weeks to do the mayor things here, and this in a quick way. As you might know, Patagonia has a harsh climate. As my husband and I are not too much into spending lots of time at such latitudes, we limited our time here to five days. This is about the minimum time you should come and only allows you to explore one place. My husband and I chose Patagonia’s crown jewel. This is about the Torres del Paine National Park in Southern Patagonia (see post about luxury hotels here). You can reach it by flying into Puerto Natales from Santiago in just over three hours. Then you have to drive another one and half hours to get to the national park’s entrance.

A second Chile destination: Atacama Desert (north Chile, from Copiapó to Peruvian border)

If you want to combine Patagonia with a second destination in Chile – and if you like nature – , then the Atacama Desert is your best option (see post about luxury hotels here). While the Lake District also seems to be worthwhile traveling, Atacama is something special. It is not only the driest nonpolar desert in the world but also features diverse landscapes including geysers, lagoons, volcanoes and crusty hills. As to Easter Island, you have to take into account a flight of five and a half hours in order to get there. To enjoy the island’s cultural heritage and natural beauty to the full, I suppose you should plan at least a four-day stay. So, you need almost one week for this undertaking.

Thus, we went for Patagonia and the Atacama Desert. And to be honest, both of them are not exactly off the beaten path. They suffer from overtourism, especially the place we chose in Patagonia (Torres del Paine National Park). I fully realized this only after our journey. Yet, also in the hindsight, we would make the same choices. The Lake District, the most viable alternative to South Patagonia, is considered as “Chilean Switzerland”. And we as Swiss not necessarily need more Switzerland when traveling.

Santiago & Valparaiso as urban complements to Patagonia & Atacama Desert

Around the two nature highlights of Patagonia and the Atacama Desert we built in a number of urban stays. On the one hand, we were three times in Santiago (post about staying & dining in style) – once at an airport hotel as you cannot fly directly from the Atacama Desert to Patagonia.

On the other hand, we made a three-day visit to Valparaiso (post about staying & dining in style) – a one and a half hour drive away from Santiago.

This beautiful port city is Chile’s second largest and known for its colorful houses built on the many hills that surround it – and Valparaiso is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

In total, we had five days in Santiago and three days in Valparaiso. That is a lot of time, but as mentioned, we were looking for a non-rushed itinerary. You can easily reduce the Santiago stay to three days – you probably need one of them for a stopover between the Atacama Desert and Patagonia. As to Valparaiso, two days might be enough to see the mayor sights. We had thought about exploring the wine regions near Santiago. Yet we did not come across a suitable hotel, and so we let it be.

After setting the scene as to this luxury Chile trip, I jump into the details of our Buenos Aires and Chile itinerary.

My Google Map of Chile & Buenos Aires in style, a non-rushed 20-day itinerary 

My Google Map illustrates the 20-day journey to Chile and Buenos Aires my husband and I undertook in the first half of November 2023.

You find here all the luxury hotels (Patagonia, Atacama Desert, Santiago de Chile, Valparaiso and Buenos Aires) we stayed

and the foodie restaurants (Santiago de Chile, Valparaiso and Buenos Aires) we dined,

complete with pictures. In addition, I included all the activities we did,

again with photos.

As far as our stays in Patagonia around Puerto Natales and in the Atacama Desert in the San Pedro area are concerned, I listed all the half and full days trip guided by the hotels we stayed.

With regard to the cities we visited (Buenos Aires, Santiago and Valparaiso), I indicated the routes we took to explore them (self-guided).

In the following, there is also a travel plan of this luxury Chile trip with the number of nights we spent at the respective location (plus hotel).

• 3 nights in Buenos Aires (Park Hyatt Buenos Aires)
• 2 nights in Santiago (The Singular Santiago)
• 4 nights in San Pedro de Atacama (Awasi Atacama)
• 1 night in Santiago (airport, Holiday Inn Santiago)
• 2 nights in Puerto Natales (The Singular Patagonia)
• 3 nights in Torres del Paine National Park (Tierra Patagonia)
• 3 nights in Valparaiso (Casa Higueras)
• 2 nights in Santiago (The Singular Santiago)

What is next about Chile & Buenos Aires

While I provided an overview of our Chile and Buenos 20-day luxury trip in this blogpost, my next posts will be about the details of the respective stops we did. When doing so, I will focus on the hotels and restaurants we visited. Most of them were high-end, as it was a luxury Chile trip. At one point or another, I will also cast a look at activities, yet these will no be at the center of my attention. Instead, refer to My Google Map of Chile & Buenos Aires in style where I have listed all the things we did, complete with (numbered) pictures.

My Chile short series will cover following topics:

• Patagonia (my post): Hotel The Singular Patagonia (half board) and Hotel Tierra (all-inclusive)
• Atacama Desert (my post): Hotel Awasi Atacama (all-inclusive)
• Santiago (my post): Hotel The Singular Santiago and three foodie restaurants
• Valparaiso (my post): Hotel Casa Higueras and three high-end dining spots
• Buenos Aires (my post): Hotel Park Hyatt Buenos Aires and three gourmet restaurants

Date of stays: November 2023

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Details to each stop of a trip from California towards east & back: 

In my last blogpost I gave an overview of a journey through the American southwest that my husband and I took lately, our 9th (!) in the area. Whenever we travel, we try to do this in style. This means staying at luxury hotels and dining at fine dining (Michelin) restaurants. But only if they are worth the expense. This was not any different on our recent trip, at least in the terms of intentions. Unfortunately, we encountered some difficulties, be it price wise or due to lack of suitable establishments. Finally, I managed to make an itinerary that met our requirements more or less. The aim of this post is to provide some details to the individual stops of our American southwest voyage in style.

Before doing so, here my Google Map of the trip, as a reminder.

My Google Map of our American southwest journey in style

You find on my Google Map not only all the hotels and restaurants of our trip through America’s “Wild West” but also cafés and ice-cream shops I was fond of. Furthermore, I listed all the activities we did on our American southwest voyage in style. All the things I mention come with short descriptions plus pictures.

In the following, I would like to give you some info about every place we visited. You will find out about its importance respectively its sights. Then there will be details about where we stayed and dined, plus where we went for quick bites and what we did.

From place to place in the American southwest, in style, whenever possible

After flying into Los Angeles, we proceeded to the nearby beach town of Hermosa Beach to start our American southwest trip in style. Next was one night in Las Vegas before traveling to Page in Arizona’s north. Then we went south in this American state, first to Sedona for a longer stay, afterwards to Scottsdale. From here we continued towards west in direction of the coast, precisely to San Diego. There was one more stop before reaching the Los Angeles International Airport again, and this in Dana Point/Laguna Beach in the Orange County.

1. Hermosa Beach (South Bay, south of Los Angeles)

General/sights

This is a laid-back beachfront town

not far from the Los Angeles International Airport LAX (13 minutes by car) and therefore ideal for a first stop after flying in. My husband and I already cycled along The Strand – a cement pedestrian path along the beach –

on an earlier stay. And we did the same thing again, only the vice versa. This is really a great thing to do, even if not being into biking (as I am)! Otherwise, Hermosa Beach is a pleasant place with a nice pier, a beautiful two-mile stretch of sand beach and gorgeous homes lining the Strand.

Staying & dining in style in Hermosa Beach

In terms of staying in style, there are two options. The (more expensive) one is directly on the beach, Beach House,

the other (opened in October 2021) one, H²O Hermosa,

is a few steps from the beach. My husband and I went for the latter – as we cared for having twin beds – and were satisfied with what we encountered (a breakfast bag was included).

As to dining in style, we had two great meals here. On the one hand, we had lunch at the newly opened Restaurant Ryla

(3 minutes by foot from our hotel), a modern Izakaya style eatery (casual Japanese), and experienced not only superb food but also good hospitality. On the other hand, we dined at Baran’s 2239

(Michelin Bib Gourmand), a lovely little bistro on the Pacific Coast Highway (21 minutes by foot from our hotel), and enjoyed well made contemporary Californian food in a welcoming setting.

2. Las Vegas

General/sights

On our way to the east, we made a “stopover” in Las Vegas.

We had opted for a one-night stay at this resort city in the Mojave Desert not primarily for its sights but for its excellent hospitality offerings. Notwithstanding that, we did not miss the chance to visit three attractions in its surroundings. We went to Seven Magic Mountains,

an art installation by a Swiss artist, the Red Rock Canyon State Park,

colorful rock formations, and the Valley of Fire State Park with similar sights.

Staying & dining in style in Las Vegas

There is truly no shortage of choices for staying and dining in style in the “Sin City”. If you arrive on Monday, all the better. At that day, room rates are often lower than at other times. My husband and I made use of a great offer at Encore Tower Suites

where we got hold of a fantastic, updated hotel room at a reasonable price.

As to dining, we had a memorable Imperial Peking Duck Tasting Menu at the in-house Chinese Restaurant Wing Lei.

It was definitely one of our trip’s culinary highlights. And the dining room (or better hall) is quite impressive too, although it is a bit loud in here. An interesting detail with Wing Lei is that it was the first Chinese restaurant in North America to earn a Michelin star (however Michelin does not rate Las Vegas restaurants anymore). Then it is also one of the Forbes Travel Guide Five-Star winners .

3. Page (north Arizona)

General/sights

After splurging in Las Vegas, we were up to a more frugal experience in Page

– as you find here midscale hotels at best. But first to its sights. This small town at the northernmost edge of the Arizona desert has much to offer in terms of nature wonders. While I long thought this was about the Horseshoe Bend

only, a horseshoe-shaped meander of the Colorado River, I was taught otherwise. Apparently, it gained infamous recognition for another site too, the Antelope Canyon, a slot canyon made of sandstone with famously undulating walls. Both have turned into social media darlings in recent years and draw lots of visitors.

After reading not so favorable reviews about Antelope Canyon (overcrowded), I decided to go to the Waterhole Canyon

instead. It was a good experience, although our guide was somewhat grumpy. And imagine, my husband and I had the canyon to ourselves, and this despite being on a guided group tour (the only possibility to visit this and the Antelope Canyon). Of course, we also had a look at the Horseshoe Bend, which is a short thing (you need one hour maximum for it, and you can go on your own).

Staying & dining in Page (not so much in style)

In spite of all this hype, Page has retained its small town character. It remained an unassuming place, however with lots of new chain hotels that all look alike. We had opted for the Country Inn & Suites by Radisson

because of its solid reviews and relatively newness (opened in April 2018). And it was okay but nothing more (spacious room but tiny bathroom, breakfast buffet included – but we skipped it). In case you are a big spender, why not pay around 4,000$ a day for a room at Amangiri, an ultra-luxurious hotel about 23 minutes by car from Page? It is up to you, I personally think that is absurdly overpriced. No hotel room in the world is worth that sum, or am I wrong here?

With regard to dining, we checked out all the restaurants in Page but could only warm to one, Sunset 89.

It is a simple eatery on the edge of the canyon off Highway 89. On offer here is nicely made Island Pacific Rim cuisine in a casual setting. You cannot make reservations here, just show up and take on the wait. But the views of Lake Powell and the Glen Canyon Dam behind the building make it more pleasant. Staff is friendly yet a bit on the stressed side. If you look for a breakfast place in Page, LP Espresso

is a pleasant spot for grabbing hot drinks and quick bites.

4. Sedona (central Arizona)

General/sights

When my family traveled the American southwest back in 2012, we had a short stay in Sedona after visiting the Grand Canyon. I absolutely fell in love with Red Rock Country,

as it was also called. And I wanted to return. But I think we have waited too long. In the meantime, it became a “world class destination with 4 million visitors per year” (visitsedona.com). Anyway, it is known for its colorful, surreal red rock formations that are ideal for hiking and biking. Furthermore, it seems to be a great hotspot for psychic energy. In addition, it has also become an art community.

My husband and I came primarily here for hiking. And it is really great for that with more than 200 trails and over 400 miles in the area (visitsedona.com). However, go better in spring or fall if you wish to do so. We were here in early summer – when it is a bit too hot for exercising outdoors – , but at least the trails were not so crowded at that time.

Staying & dining in style in Sedona

Sedona turned out being a hard patch as to staying in style. We already knew the “star establishment”

in town from our earlier stay but did not want to return (see my hotel review). The other one “in this league” is far away from the town center and does not really get great reviews. So, we settled for one that was a bit more “low key”, the newly opened (October 2021) The Wilde Resort & Spa

(the former Sedona Rouge Resort & Spa). While we liked our spacious room (Grove Signature) with a generous bathroom and the beautifully landscaped garden, we found the ambiance a bit “staid” (staff at reception and restaurant).

When it comes to dining in style in Sedona, you have quite a choice. You have to know that there is no Michelin Guide for Arizona (in contrast to California), so I had to depend on recommendations from Eater Travel (eater.com). We experienced a good mix of more casual dining-spots (Elote Café,

modern Mexican cuisine [Book well in advance!]; The Hudson,

modern American cuisine) and more formal ones (Dahl & Di Luca Ristorante Italiano,

Mariposa Latin Inspired Grill).

In terms of food, setting and views, I liked Mariposa Latin Inspired Grill best (but it has its price). As to coolness and views, I was fond of The Hudson.

As we had a longer stay in Sedona, I have also suggestions for cafés and ice-cream shops. If you are into healthy food, Local Juicery

is a must. In case you have a sweet tooth, then do not miss Layla’s Bakery.

And if you love ice-cream, I adored the one at PussyCat Gelato.

5. Scottsdale/Phoenix

General/sights

Before returning to the Californian Coast my husband and I wanted to one more stop in Arizona. After long wavering between Tucson and Scottsdale, we chose the latter, particularly due to its better offerings for staying and dining in style.

We have been here already, end of the 80s, and we knew that we were in for the hottest time of the year. So, we wanted to take it slow here. That meant one activity rather early in the day – Taliesin West,

Frank Lloyd’s winter home -, then spending the afternoon around the pool in the shade. A short look around Scottsdale’s old town

was on our agenda before dinner. A great thing to do here is also the Desert Botanical Garden, what we did on our previous stay.

Staying & dining in style in Scottsdale

For our two-day stay in Scottsdale, we had decided on a four-star property, Mountain Shadows.

This because we could not entirely warm to any of the fancier hotels in town – which are plentiful. We liked the cool and relaxed vibe of this newly rebuilt accommodation (in 2017). Above all, the spacious pool area was a great spot to hang out and to have a drink.

When it comes to dining in style, we had the most fabulous dinner of our USA southwest trip here in Scottsdale. And this was at ShinBay

in the old town. The chef, Shinji Kurita, together with his sous-chef Suzuki, offered a true epicurean experience. We were simply blown away by his creations, which were traditional Japanese yet with a twist. While it certainly was no bargain (225$ per person without beverages), it was one of the best Japanese meals we ever had, and we have had our share on our three-week Japan journey!

In addition, we had dinner at our hotel, at Hearth ’61,

which showed a sound performance. And there is also a branch of PussyCat Gelato

in old town Scottsdale, the ice-cream shop that I had discovered in Sedona.

6. San Diego

General/sights

As I have already written a post about this city in the past, there will be no more info about it. One exception: my husband and I were aghast to be confronted with San Diego’s homeless problem in downtown, where we resided (see below). I will not go into details (if you should be interested, google it; there is much to find about it). But if the city does not find a solution for this problem, the tourist industry will suffer.

In terms of activities, we walked to Little Italy

(from the Gaslamp Quarter), which has a vibrant restaurant and bar scene and back along San Diego’s bayfront. En route we made a stop at the USS Midway Museum,

the longest-serving aircraft carrier in the 20th century, which was an interesting thing to do. The same is true as to our short trip to Cabrillo National Monument.

Staying & dining in style in San Diego

As mentioned, we stayed this time in downtown San Diego in the heart of the historic Gaslamp Quarter. While this area has its charm, it unfortunately is affected by a big homeless problem (see above). We stayed at the luxurious Pendry San Diego

and liked our stay here (nice enough room, friendly and helpful staff, good breakfast). It is a fairly new hotel (opened in 2017) that masterfully blends modernity with tradition. Rooms are all the same size (suites are different) but vary as to view and floor. Go for one on a higher floor (street noise). What irritated me a bit on the room, was the disproportioned wet area (tiny sink – oversized shower). But otherwise, it was fine!

As to dining, we went to two Michelin listed restaurants. My favorite was Callie,

a cool, laid-back eatery with Mediterranean/Middle Eastern food. My recommendation is to order the tasting menu (70$) plus wine pairing (40$), which allows you to sample a bit from everything. We also dined at Animae,

which did not meet all our (high) expectations. Whereas it convinced with its looks and its food quality, the ambiance was not sophisticated and the service spotty.

If you are an ice-cream lover, here is a great place to go: Gelato Love

(RoVino The Foodery in East Village). You get here delicious, lower-calorie ice-cream. We were so fond of it that we even visited their home base in Carlsbad (Village Faire Shopping Center) on our way north!

7. Dana Point/Laguna Beach (Orange County, south of Los Angeles)

General/sights

We have been to Dana Point respective Laguna Beach

many times in the past, but we have never experienced it that crowded. More than once we got stuck in the traffic, something that has never happened to us here before. It seems that this lovely seaside town, located south of Los Angeles, has found lots of other fans! And this does not come as a surprise, in view of its beautiful coast with sandy beaches, tide pools, ocean bluffs and sea caves. For more information on Laguna Beach and the Greater Los Angeles area, check out my earlier post.

On our recent stay, my husband and I spent our time here walking/hiking Dana Point

(info about parks and trails). This was not only rewarding but allowed us to get away from the crowds in many cases too!

Staying & dining in style in Dana Point/Laguna Beach

I already let you know in my previous post that we decided against staying at a resort in Dana Point

where we had been twice in the past. And this because we considered its pricing as excessive. So, we had to find an alternative, which turned out to be no easy thing. Finally, without being totally convinced, we chose the signature room, the Luxury Tower Guestroom,

at Blue Lantern Inn

in Dana Point. While the room was great – with exception of the bed, which was way too bouncy for us – , we felt like being in the wrong place. Do not get me wrong, the hotel’s setting – overlooking the Pacific –  is stunning. Also the breakfast was surprisingly good, in view of not being served. But overall, the hotel was too “midscale” for us.

With regard of dining-spots, we went to a long time favorite of us, 230 Forest Avenue

in Laguna Beach. This casual, vibrant eatery still knows to persuade with well-made Californian cuisine with a twist, and this after having been continuously operated since 1995!

Furthermore, we dined at two Michelin listed restaurants which were new to us. On the one hand, we had an excellent meal at Marché Moderne

in Newport Beach, a contemporary French venue in a mall. Not only was the food divine, but it is also an elegant, tastefully furnished place. On the other hand, we had a fine dinner at an Italian restaurant, Oliver’s Osteria.

While we liked the authentic cuisine and the pleasant service, it was a bit hectic on our visit (there was a big tent in front of the eatery where they also hosted guests – as all the other nearby spots).

And once again, a recommendation for tasty ice-cream! And this is a shop where we have been several times already, Gelato Paradiso.

It was founded back in 1999!

Date of stay: July 2022

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Wondering where to go in the southwestern United States not only for sights but also for travel in style? And this without breaking the bank? My husband and I tried to do so and succeeded in many cases. But – as you may have guessed from the headline – it is no easy thing, due to increased prices or for lack of suitable establishments. Travel in style – think of staying at luxury hotels and dining at (Michelin) fine dining restaurants – has become increasingly expensive on the US west coast recently. And the offer of upscale spots for staying and dining in style is scarce in some places. As if that were not enough, it seems that overtourism has also reached the area. Notwithstanding that, we managed to compile an American southwest itinerary and embarked on our 9th (!) journey in the area. This time we flew into Los Angeles, then went east towards Arizona before returning to California’s coast.

Before going into the details of our voyage, I would like to address some related topics shortly. After a very brief look at our US west coast travel history there will be some lines to the current price level in the luxury hotel segment. This will be followed by some considerations on itineraries in the area – also as a result of grown national park tourism.

Our west coast adventures to date

I have just mentioned it, my husband and I are great fans of the US west coast. And so we have just had our 9th stay here! Our first one was more than 30 years ago, and oh my God, so much has changed since then. But I do not want to bore you with “everything was better in the past” stories. The last time we were here was in 2017, flying into San Francisco.

And I took this trip as an opportunity to suggest a Californian trip in five stops – find here all my posts about it.

Whereas we travelled the northern part of this US state at the time – starting in Mendocino

and going south to Los Angeles, including a side trip to Palm Springs – ,

we concentrated on California’s south coast plus Las Vegas

and Arizona

on our recent journey. But both times we ended our vacations in Orange County (south of Los Angeles).

And so I am able to compare the price level at a high-end hotel in the region, 2022 versus 2017. So much can be said, rates have been skyrocketing since then. More in the section to follow.

Increased price level in upscale hotels in the southwest USA

Maybe you have experienced it yourself, room rates at luxury hotels in popular destinations have increased lately. It seems that especially beachy vacation spots

are in huge demand. And this is no wonder as in the last two years leisure travel was often not possible. So, travelers are more than ready to spend money for their much needed and well deserved vacations. A phenomenon that is called “revenge travel” nowadays.

In addition to a strong demand, the hotel industry faces new issues. On the one hand, it suffers from labor shortages. This often results in staff reductions. On the other hand, costs for everything are skyrocketing. Not only materials are scarce but there are procurement delays too. The reasons for this are plentiful. First, there were delivery problems because of the pandemic, followed by similar issues due to the war in the Ukraine. A rising inflation was the result. This constellation brings along not only service cuts but also sky-high rates. Overall, you pay more for a room and end up with a worse service.

My personal experiences in terms of overcharging and under delivering at hotels

When planning our southwest USA journey, my husband and I were astonished to see how room rates for high-end hotels have risen since our 2017 stay. One example: At the time (end of October 2017), we paid 749$ per night (breakfast included, AAA Package) for an Ocean View Room at the Ritz-Carlton in Dana Point (Orange County).

For a stay at the beginning of July 2022, the same room would have cost 1,850$ (without breakfast)! And this without the accommodation being updated or so (it was renovated shortly before our 2017 stay). As we do not pay such an excessive price for a nice yet not so special room, we did not go for it.

At other places, we experienced a number of service cuts. There were hotels – we had booked a two-night stay at each – , where they had following room cleaning schedules. In one case, we were told that there would be no cleaning at all. At another lodging, they only clean the rooms every third day. And in another one, rooms were only done upon request.

While this did not pose a serious problem for us, we considered such a regimen as unusual. And this in particular in view of the increased room rates, where you would not expect sub-par service.

Before coming to our actual itinerary, here a few related things you better give some thoughts to when planning to travel America’s southwest. These concern general considerations – where to start, which route to take etc – but also the mentioned overtourism in the area.

Considerations on itineraries in the southwest USA – generally & in view of overtourism

Route considerations trough America’s southwest

As my husband and I have travelled America’s southwest extensively over the years (or better the decades), we have tried out various variations. Most times, we began our trips from either Los Angeles

or San Francisco,

as we are international travelers. However, this is not always the ideal starting point, depending on what you want to do. In some cases, it might be better to fly into Denver, as we did once.

Let us take the example of starting and ending in Los Angeles and heading east in between, as we did on our most recent vacation. You have to know that there is some kind of “gap” between the coast and the “touristic” inland. Here “in-between” you do not find many sights and no places for staying and dining in style. This leaves you as discerning traveler with two options. You can either go via Las Vegas –

what we did – , or via Palm Springs –

where we were on our last trip. For your way back to the coast, you take the one you have not done yet. As alternative – especially if you want to include Phoenix/Scottsdale or Tucson into your travel plans, there is also the route to San Diego –

as we opted for on our recent journey.

Overtourism in southwestern USA

Now to one more fact what makes traveling in the area more complicated and unpleasant too, the overtourism. As you certainly are aware of, there is a post-pandemic boom in nature respectively national park tourism.

While this kind of tourist activity has grown steadily for decades, it has accelerated since the 2010s (Bloomberg). And sadly, most national parks

and other nature attractions in the American southwest are crowded at many times of the year. As a consequence, it may be better to visit them in the shoulder respectively off-seasons or to switch to “second-rate” sights. In our case, we went this year end of June/beginning of July, and in Page we chose the Waterhole Canyon

over the Antelope Canyon.

But enough complaining, I come now to the actual topic, our American southwest itinerary.

Our California-Nevada-Arizona 16-day itinerary in style

Definitive route

Considering that we have been in the area many times before, we were not eager to do the same things all over again. And of course, we wanted to avoid revisiting a place that is now crowded and was not on a previous stay! We had not been to Page yet (Horseshoe Bend

and Antelope Canyon) and wanted to explore Sedona in greater details – we got to know and love it in 2017 on a (too) short stay. So, these were the two fixed inland points. We also thought about going to Tucson but dropped it because we could not warm to its vibe (and lodging offerings).

Hence, we started in the South Bay of Los Angeles (Hermosa Beach),

heading east towards Page

in Arizona’s far north – with a stopover in Las Vegas –

before coming to Sedona.

Here we spent a large part of our vacations, then drove – via Scottsdale –

back to the Californian coast. We “hit” it in San Diego

and made one more stop in California, and this in Orange County (Dana Point),

before returning to Switzerland.

Our travel style

As to our travel style, one can say that we have expensive tastes in terms of staying

and dining.

We are ready to pay high prices for hotels but only if we consider them worth the expense. And this was definitely not always the case when checking out lodging for our American southwest trip. As outlined before, we wanted to stay at a particular accommodation again that we knew from two earlier visits but found it way too expensive this time. And this very establishment was no exception! So, we had to “downgrade” every now and then.

Find in the following detailed information on our California-Nevada-Arizona itinerary.

My Google Map (itinerary) of our southwest USA journey in style

My Google Maple (itinerary) includes all the hotels we stayed and the restaurants we dined on our trip through the American southwest. And they come complete with short descriptions and pictures. You find the same as to cafés or ice-cream shop we went to on our journey and considered as good. Finally, I listed all the activities we did when traveling North America’s “Wild West”.

While we usually strive for the best in terms of hotels and restaurants – without overspending – , we faced some problems in achieving this. These were either due to excessive rates – as mentioned – but also because of the lack of suitable establishments. Whereas the offer of upscale hotels is plentiful on the Californian coast, this is not always the case when traveling inland.

I will not leave my Google Map uncommented. There is the one or other thing to tell you concerning each stop. You will find some details to all the seven places we visited on our journey through America’s southwest soon on my blog!

Date of visit: July 2022

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My recent trip to NYC together with my husband brought us not only to the world’s No. 1 chef of 2017, Daniel Humm at Eleven Madison Park (see my blogpost), but also to other recommended restaurants for lovers of fine food. As chance would have it – or maybe our preference for it –, all of them are establishments offering fusion cuisine. And all of them are located in Midtown, that means in the area between 34^th Street and 59^th Street. This is due to the fact that we also stayed at a hotel here. More to this subject you will find in my next blogpost. In case you should be interested in excellent restaurants south of Midtown, have a look at this blogpost. All the restaurants mentioned here are still hip places. We even revisited one of them, Restaurant Musket Room in Soho, and we liked what we got once again!

But now to the fusion restaurants we went to in Midtown.

1. Empellon

Mexican, mid-range, casual

This hip bi-level restaurant with its lively atmosphere

is not Alex Stupak’s first restaurant under the name of Empellon. According to the New York Times his “earlier Empellons weren’t necessarily meant for anybody”, but this one is more a crowd-pleaser. The chef is still a “technical wizard” (New York Times) – he used to work as pastry chef at the renowned WD-50 (molecular gastronomy, where we had dined too – his creations are more harmonious now. On offer here are inventive tacos but also pasta, meat and fish dishes, all Mexican-inspired but by no means typical Mexican food.

We went for the Restaurant Week Menu for 42 $ where you can choose an individual starter, a taco dish (two pieces per person) and an individual dessert. To start the meal, we ordered guacamole with seven salsas

for the two of us to accompany the fantastic Margaritas, a great choice! An excellent starter was the sticky rice tamal with red Chile duck.

As to mains, we found the tacos with falavel accompanied by red and white sauce excellent.

When it came to desserts, my husband and I opted both for pineapple with piloncillo (unrefined whole cane sugar), pee pollen and chamomile ice cream.

What a treat! You could clearly notice that the chef is a virtuoso in this field …

Not only the ambiance and the food were convincing, also the service was up to level, relaxed and cool yet friendly and informative. I look forward to the further development of Empellon, maybe also towards a new fine dining place as the chef has it in mind!

2. Atoboy

Korean, mid-range, casual

– dubu (tofu), seaweed, chili oil –, octopus

– yellow peach, mojo verde (green sauce), fermented dubu – and pork jowl

– barley (cereal grain), ssamjang (spicy dipping sauce), cipollini onion.

– grapefruit, ginger crumble.

Service is kind, attentive and makes thoughtful suggestions what to order.

3. Nerai

Greek, mid-range to expensive, fine dining

This is not your usual taverna offering simple Greek food but an elegant restaurant featuring sophisticated Greek cuisine with a contemporary twist in a hospitable ambiance.

It is not a newly opened place as the two before mentioned restaurants, but has helped to enhance the local fine dining scene as to high-end Greek establishments for five years now.

grilled haloumi cheese with fresh figs over shaved fennel salad with toasted hazelnuts and balsamic glaze or Astakomakaronada,

poached Maine lobster with squid ink linguine in Metaxa (spirit) bisque. Whereas many dishes that are served here sound unfamiliar, you might have heard of moussaka. However, a new take on it is available here, Papia Moussaka,

crescent duck moussaka with pan seared crescent duck breast over beluga lentils and chanterelles fig jus. And leave place for desserts, they are delectable just as the other dishes, for example Saragli,

hand-rolled baklava, tahini parfait, sesame brittle and pistachio gelato.

4. Indian Accent

Indian, expensive, casual fine dining

was an inventive and delicious starter at the same time. A real treat was the middle course, sweet pickle ribs, sundried mango, onion seeds.

The ribs were tenderly melting in the mouth, seasoned with a sublime tart mango sauce! Another highlight was the main, chicken malai tikka, green chili cream, sugar snap peas, summer truffle,

which was a complex taste experience. And the chef did not disappoint in the department of desserts either. Doda barfi treacle tart, vanilla bean ice cream

was heavenly! The fudge-like sweet made with milk, sugar and nuts was crumbly and not smooth as other barfis I have tasted so far.

We really liked our dinner experience at this restaurant with its own rendition of Indian food. Just as in New Delhi, the place does not feature many Indian elements but is of a contemporary appearance boasting bare wooden tables and a sleek bar.

Servers are accommodating, personal and keen on explaining the dishes. I look forward to getting to know also the London branch of Indian Accent on my next visit to the UK!

Apropos UK, although giving account of my two favorite New York City hotels in my next blogpost, there is a reference to this country too. Fact is that both places I will go into are part of an English hotel group, and even has been awarded the Queen’s Award for Enterprise four times, most recently in 2018 for its achievements in International Trade. Curious? Come back later … 

Date of visit: August 2018

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As soon as the word spread of a highly talented Swiss chef working in New York City, I wanted to dine at his restaurant. That was back in the late 2000’s. I learned at the time that this chef – Daniel Humm is his name – worked at the Eleven Madison Park, a restaurant I had visited in 2005. Unfortunately, this was one year before my compatriot started working here.

When my husband and I visited New York City again in 2010, we checked whether we could make a reservation at this restaurant. And yes, it was possible, but for some reason we hesitated, and so the chance was gone!

When Eleven Madison Park topped the list of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants in 2017, I remember vividly how I felt about it. On the one hand, I was glad that a Swiss chef was so successful. On the other hand I thought that such an accolade would diminish my chances of ever having dinner here. There would be too many people yearning to dine here and prices would skyrocket.

After the restaurant dropped to No. 4 in 2018 in the mentioned ranking, my husband and I agreed that Daniel Humm’s restaurants should be the place where we would like to celebrate an anniversary. And finally – after going to a somewhat unusual reservation process, see more details later on –, the dream of dining at the World’s Best Restaurant became true!

After this somewhat lengthy introduction, I come to the point. For those who are not familiar with the chef, here first a few words about him and his career.

Daniel Humm

As already mentioned, Daniel Humm is Swiss-born, and this not far away from my home town of Olten in the northwestern part of the country. He left school at an early age as he did not show much interest in this education. After an apprenticeship to become a cook he worked at prestigious Swiss institutions and received his first Michelin star at the age of 24.

Although speaking little English he accepted an offer to oversee the kitchen at Campton Place in San Francisco in 2003. Soon he gained good reputation as hottest new talent in town. And not before long, he got a job offer as chef at Danny Meyer’s Eleven Madison Park Restaurant in New York City in 2006.

At the same time, Will Guidara, a restaurateur, was appointed as general manager of Eleven Madison Park. Daniel Humm and Will Guidara found their gastronomical soulmate in each other and transformed the place from a French brasserie to a high-end fine dining establishment. In 2011, they acquired the restaurant and continued their way towards the top of the culinary industry.

In the next paragraphs, I will go into the development of the Restaurant Eleven Madison Park after the duo of Daniel Humm and Will Guidara took over.

Cuisine

Furthermore, Daniel Humm attaches much importance to creativity. Every dish must have a surprising element. Eventually, there is always an intention behind his creations, be it for example a childhood memory or a unique product from a supplier.

Talking of produce, the Swiss-born chef wants to showcase “New York-ness”. He takes inspiration from the bounty and the traditions of his home of choice. And of course, he only uses seasonal products.

In terms of Daniel Humm’s development over the years, he is in permanent evolution. He plays with certain ideas and either keeps or drops them again. I read that he had launched some (unnecessary) gimmicks regarding the mentioned focus on the sense of place, the New York City location. I cannot confirm this when it comes to my recent visit to his restaurant, more about my experience later on. First, to the accolades of the Eleven Madison Park over the years.

Awards

Restaurant

The building used to be Met Life’s records warehouse. After a years-long redesign of the interior and renovation of the exterior, Eleven Madison Park opened at the base of the building as part of the Union Square Hospitality Group in 1998. After Daniel Humm and Will Guidara bought the restaurant, they decided at one point that they had to put their own stamp on it. And this overhaul of kitchen and dining-room did take place exactly in the same year when Eleven Madison Park became the best restaurant in the world!

Some people regarded the timing of this months-long renovation as unfortunate, but I imagine that it was too late to call off the project. And it was a good moment for such an undertaking as the duo recently had signed a new 20-year lease on the property. Anyway, Eleven Madison Park reopened at the beginning of October 2017, re-shaped for the long term!

I have only faint memories of the restaurant’s interior when I visited the place in 2005. That was before Daniel Humm took over and for sure, there has been changes in the meantime. For example, what began as a restaurant serving 400 covers a night, it has now a capacity of just 80 persons a night. Be it as it may, here is the result of my research about alterations on the occasion of the recent remodeling.

It was the wish of Daniel Humm and Will Guidara that “anything that was there before it was a restaurant needed to stay there” (Guidara). This applies the hanging pendant lights, the revolving door and the openness between dining room and adjacent spaces.

The main-dining room – where you can have the full tasting menu – is dominated by a huge blue painting by Rita Ackerman, an abstraction of the Madison Park. The heavy mustardy-woods and black leather furniture made place for banquettes lining the space. These and other furnishings are kept in muted neutral colors (light blue-gray and earthy brown). The atmosphere is pleasant, the high-ceilinged Art Deco space has plenty of windows. It feels grand and intimate at the same time. The latter probably because the room is partitioned, and the tables are not too close to the next one.

The lounge space was redone, with more tables for prepaid bar dining and a smaller counter for walks-in.

I very much liked the main-dining’s room ambiance. This is also due to the fact that my husband and I got probably the best table on site. We sat under the before mentioned painting at the corner table by the window. So we both had full view of the happenings in here! As far as the lounge area is concerned, I only cast a glance at it but I found it a bit dark and the tables were quite close to each other.

Before showcasing the full tasting menu, a few words to the reservation process, which I found rather out of the ordinary.

Reservation process/Pricing

It is still possible to enjoy Daniel Humm’s menu as walk-ins, but I imagine you must be very lucky to get such a seat. There are only six of them at the bar where you receive the bar menu only.

For all the other people interested in dining here, there is only one way to do so. You have to make a reservation online the first day of the month for the whole month that follows, and this at 09.00 am New York City time. You can choose between the Dining Room Tasting Menu at 315 $ per person – as we did – or the Bar Tasting Menu at 175 $. In addition, you may add a wine pairing to your Dining Room Tasting Menu that costs another 175 $, which we did as well. Bottom line, you have to spend about 1,000 $ for a fully loaded dinner for two! Having said this, the mentioned amount includes all the cost from water and tea/coffee to tax and tip. You have to keep in mind that 315 $ for a tasting menu roughly translates to 250 $ at a “normal” restaurant where you have to pay for tax and tip separately. Notwithstanding that, it remains an expensive pleasure!

You have to consider one more thing in this context. The mentioned deposits are non-refundable. Therefore, you are not in the position to cancel or to postpone your dinner. However, you can transfer the “ticket” through the reservation site of the restaurant (Tock) on a private basis.

After all these introductory remarks, I finally come to the main thing, the food.

Dining Room Tasting Menu Summer 2018

This was true for us too. The crumbly savory biscuit had a creamy filling made of cheddar and apple, a promising start that asked for more of the same!

The first proper course was a dish inspired by Daniel Humm’s recent trip to India, a Tomato Dosa. The crispy, savory pancake was filled with goat cheese and green tomato and accompanied by a tomato tea with a summer herb bundle in it.

Next was a tomato salad with summer berries.

The tomato tea was so intense and full of taste, I could almost not believe it! And the flavorful tomatoes harmonized beautifully with the berries. This light composition – served in two courses – was a fine introduction to Daniel Humm’s culinary skills. And it was perfect on a hot and humid summer evening.

The following dish was the absolute highlight of our dinner, corn soufflé with caviar from white US sturgeon and bonito sauce. The latter comes from a tuna-like fish that was smoked and dried.

The server brought two soufflés to our table, cut off the top of them and arranged the covers together with the other ingredients on plates. While I would have wished to keep the whole soufflé and not only the top of it, this thought soon vanished. And this when I took the first bite of the dish. What a revelation! Normally, I am not much into caviar, but this one paired so nicely with the subtle-sweet of the corn and the smoky taste of the fish sauce, Heavenly!

The dinner proceeded to the first course where we had a choice of three options and of course my husband and I went for our favorite ingredient, foie gras! When asked whether we wanted it cold or warm, we opted for the latter and got seared Hudson Valley foie gras with plums and duck prosciutto.

Although being immaculately prepared and well composed, it lacked the wow effect I had been hoping for. I have no idea why the dish that usually makes my taste-buds sing failed to leave a lasting impression on me.

Next was a tabletop grilling, little grey snails – locally sourced and feeding on mint – and chanterelles on skewers got their finish tableside. This was fun to watch!

After grilling, we wrapped them with the condiments in lettuce, what a great idea!

Then it was time for the main course. Out of several options, we had one of Daniel Humm’s typical dishes, his signature roasted duck in the classic honey and lavender version together with blueberries and onion.

It was accompanied by corn, creamed with juniper and grated egg yolk as well as zucchini with lemon and mint. That was another highlight of the dinner! This dish was not only expertly crafted but its flavor combinations also lingered long in the memory.

When it was up to the cheese dish, we were first a bit unsure what we should make out of it. We had a breadbasket before us together with a plate with two kind of mousses for each of us. After the first bite of the brioches in the basket, we got it. They were filled with creamy cheese (triple crème) and the mousses were thought to complement them (cherry and basil crème fraiche).

What an original take on cheese and a culinary delight at the same time!

After so many exciting savory dishes, we were keen to see what the chef hand in mind for dessert. Again, we had a choice, this time between two fruity creations and a chocolate one. We did not need long to decide as we are both chocolate aficionados. We got a truly imaginative composition made of sorbet, shortbread and coffee meringue, a real treat!

The feast was rounded up with Daniel Humm’s signature chocolate pretzel with sea salt. This is a magnificent blend of pretzel crumbles mixed with white chocolate, dipped in chocolate and sprinkled with sea salt after baking.

As a farewell present we received a bag with a large jar of homemade granola as well a small tin in which you find your individual menu including wine, indeed a nice touch!

Service

During the course of the dinner, you have some choices to take at certain points of time. Later on, the same person who led the introductory conservation enquires about some details concerning the special occasion that possibly made you book a table here.

Overall

After longing for many years to have the chance to eat in the restaurant of the most famous Swiss chef Daniel Humm in New York City, it finally came true! As luck would have it, the dinner fell on near the reopening of Eleven Madison Park after a months-long renovation with a new look, revamped bar program and a trimmed menu.

 

After being the World’s Best Restaurant in 2017, the soaring Art Deco Space opposite of Madison Park dropped this year to 4^th. This downgrade is not that significant as in recent years there have been a trio of restaurants (including Eleven Madison Park) that have rotated their position within the leading five spots.

The place, co-owned by Daniel Humm and front-of-house director Will Guidara, is well known for its purist and understated cuisine focused on the region’s bounty and traditions. This however without denying the chef’s European training and techniques. Daniel Humm has developed his own distinctive style of neoclassicism. These with dishes just as his honey and lavender glazed duck breast. The essential is there but reduced, without superfluous or out-of-date fuss. Platings are minimalist and heavy on simple forms.

Service is another thing that impresses here. What goes on in the grand yet intimate dining room is a class of its own. It is a perfectly organized and orchestrated process. Everything works like a Swiss clockwork yet service is warm and empathic. Will Guidara – who oversees this domain – is a master in his field.

It is a true experience to dine here, so much can be said, but it is not for everyone! Eleven Madison Park is one of New York City’s most expensive restaurants. In the late 2000’s you could enjoy three courses from the menu for about 90 $. Nowadays you have to dig deep in your pockets to have the chance to eat here. But I think it is pointless to lament this situation. As long as guests are ready to pay a fortune for a dinner here, they can ask for such high prices. Having said that, I do not regret doing it but most probably it will be a once in a lifetime experience!

Date of visit: August 2018

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San Diego features

At the time, it was decided to shift the center of San Diego to this waterfront location, nowadays better known as Gaslamp Quarter in Downtown. Its development started in the 1860s as New Town and eclipsed Old Town as the city’s core. It includes 94 historic buildings of which many were built in the Victorian Era. After a period of urban decay, this neighborhood underwent some renewal works and was restored to its former glory. Walking around in the area and gazing at some houses is an interesting thing to do, such as at the Cole Block Building,

or the Ingle Building.

Today, this Bayfront location is also the site of entertainment and night life venues.

A place not to be missed in Dan Diego is Balboa Park, an urban cultural park, which is home to not only green areas but also museums, theatres, art galleries and the San Diego Zoo. It features 16 unique gardens

including the beautiful Japanese Friendship Garden.

A nice place to spend some time is Seaport Village, a waterfront shopping and dining complex adjacent to the San Diego Bay in Downtown.

 From here you can catch a glimpse of the naval fleet stationed here in San Diego.

A beautiful spot to enjoy the beach in San Diego is La Jolla, a community in the north of San Diego occupying quite a long stretch of curving coastline. A good starting point is La Jolla Cove

with a little beach for sunbathing and swimming. There is also a walkway along the coast towards Children’s Pool offering great opportunities for viewing the sea and wildlife such as the La Jolla seal.

Which location & hotel to choose in San Diego

but only because of one luxury hotel, the Tower23.

This sleek, minimalist place is a great choice when being into modern lodging. My husband and I are such travelers and opted for it on our last visit to San Diego. Unfortunately, the area cannot quite keep up with the hotel, as this neighborhood is known for being one of the main centers of nightlife in town, and this especially for a younger crowd. Having said this, a nice thing to do is strolling along the Ocean Front Walk, running about 3.2 miles (5 kilometers) along the beach to the Mission Bay, which is almost always very busy.

A community, which pleases travelers in style, is the neighboring la Jolla, already mentioned in the previous section. It is a beautiful seaside village popular as domicile for affluent people. Hotels can be found here, although none catering for expensive taste and being on the beach at the same time.

Recommended restaurants in the Pacific Beach area

Another recommended dining-spot is The Fishery, located a few blocks from the ocean in North Pacific Beach. This is the place to indulge in great seafood as it is not only a restaurant but there is also a warehouse with freshest fish behind it. The atmosphere is pleasant, and the chef knows how to prepare seafood in an interesting way.

A good place for breakfast and probably lunch as well (we only had breakfast here twice) is Isabel’s Cantina, which serves Latin-Asian fusion dishes in a very casual ambiance in some sort of a converted garage. Staff is easy-going yet welcoming, and there are also healthy options available.

Overall

Last date of stay: October 2013 (hotels and restaurants rechecked on TripAdvisor in 2018)

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Los Angeles is a place that is hard to grasp for a traveler. It is a virtual impossibility to leave this juggernaut of a city in no doubt that one has seen it! After 8 (!) visits to this city, beginning in the late 1980s, I did an attempt to list my personal Los Angeles highlights accumulated over the last years. I firmly believe that this city’s character can best be captured by staying not only in one spot, shall we say Santa Monica, but in different ones. And of course, one visit to this metropolis is not enough to get a feel for it.

Itinerary 2017

Distinctions

Los Angeles is known for many of its particularities. It is the entertainment capital of the world, it is supposed to have the perfect climate – mostly sunny and warm, with low humidity and little rain – , it is a cultural mecca with an abundance of museums and it has a diverse, multiethnic population (Hispanics are the majority here). But there is also a downside, which is connected with the above mentioned decentralized structure, the traffic, probably the problem number one in Los Angeles.

Bad traffic

Where to stay & eat and what to do

Laguna Beach

When staying in this seaside resort town south of Los Angeles (1h15min from Downtown LA), you get a feel how life is in South California is when being rich and beautiful. There are many good hotels and restaurants as well as parks where to walk (Heisler Park) and to hike (Crystal Cove State Park). If you want to do sightseeing in Los Angeles’ city center, this may not be your first choice (too far away).

The same as just said to Laguna Beach is true for this resort city in desert valley (1h45min from Downtown LA). Do not visit this place in summer if you want to do more than sunbathing because it is simply too hot for anything other. Here you find stylish hotels and great dining-spots as well. An interesting feature is also its midcentury-modern architecture (e.g. Palms Springs Rendezvous Hotel on my list). Palm Springs is also a hiking paradise. The North Lykken Trail (see map) is a fine example with wonderful views and varied terrain.

Santa Monica

Combinations

My last post in this series about a Californian trip along the coast from north to south will be about San Diego. Of all major cities visited in California, this is the one that I know least about. “Only” 3 of my 8 Californian trips went here, but I think enough to get a feeling for it.

Last date of stay: November 2017

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