After elaborating on general aspects of a trip in style to Taiwan – planning, one-week and two-week itinerary – , it is about the best luxury hotels on this island. On a recent Taiwan journey across the country, my husband and I stayed at six of the best upscale accommodations. While we liked all of them, they did not equally excel in all areas. So, it was possible to choose my personal highlights among them. Find in the following all you have to know about my three lodging favorites in Taiwan. Two are city hotels (Taipei and Kaohsiung), one is in the countryside (Sun Moon Lake, center).

Before delving into the best luxury hotels in Taiwan, some general facts in the context of booking (luxury) hotels on this island.

What to know about booking (luxury) hotels in Taiwan

Whereas there are lots of luxury hotels in the big cities on Taiwan’s west side, this is not so when leaving this part of the island. As the majority of travelers to Taiwan go to the same few locations when doing so – Taroko Gorge, Sun Moon Lake, Alishan – , you find high-end lodging in these spots too. Said that, Alishan makes an exception here. From what I learn, the accommodations here are neither ubiquitous (they sell out fast) nor can they be considered as good (old and overpriced). As to the other places mentioned, there is a choice of upscale hotels, however not a wide one.

When it comes to rates, I found that the city hotels on the island’s west side (Taipei and Kaohsiung) usually offer good value for money. I have read that people from Japan, Hong Kong or Singapore come here “to live it up” at Taipei hotels, which they often could not afford in their own countries. I personally found our Taipei accommodation (Mandarin Oriental) reasonably priced, and this much in contrast to most of their branches in Europe! And our hotel in Kaoshiung (Silks Club) even was a bargain.

However, as to luxury hotels outside of cities, they cost more. We paid quite some rates, both in the Taroko Gorge (Silks Place) and Sun Moon Lake (The Lalu). But as mentioned, almost every traveler to Taiwan comes here, and there is not much competition.

I start with two of the best luxury hotels in Taipei and Kaohsiung before continuing with my personal lodging highlight in the Sun Moon Lake area.

1. Hotel Mandarin Oriental Taipei, one of the best luxury hotels in Taiwan

Mandarin Oriental is for sure one of the best luxury hotels in Taipei if not in the entire country of Taiwan. And it also is one of the newer ones (opened in 2014). In contrast to the buildings of its competitors which are often made of concrete, glass and steel, it is somewhat unique. It is reminiscent of Medieval European architecture, albeit it definitely is a mix of different styles from several countries. You find here for example a dome like in Florence or fountains just as in Versailles. Without doubt, is an impressive property designed to impress.

Location

Mandarin Oriental Taipei is located on Dunhua North Road, Taipei’s main boulevard, in the Songshan District. While being in downtown Taipei in one of several business districts in town (financial industry), its situation comes handy enough yet is not exceptionally good. It might be favorable for domestic travelers as it is near the Songshan Airport (5 minutes by car), for others – especially leisure travelers – it is not so. This because it is a bit away from the main tourist sights. Said that, it is close to the next MRT (7 minutes by foot), which is a great plus. In addition, the neighborhood seems to be in transition. You find here new buildings but also lots of such ones soon to be demolished.

Ambiance/Staff

The hotel exudes an upscale ambiance. This is true not only for the elegant entry hall but also THE ARCADE, the adjoining shopping complex. While the latter appeared a bit without life on our visits, it is remarkable with its glamorous shops along marble floors and the striking Italian-like courtyard plaza. For Western Europeans, the whole property might seem a bit too much in terms of opulence and eclecticism, yet it definitely is a sight to behold.

The staff is as excellent as you would expect at a hotel of this caliber. The standard of service never fails to impress, be it at the reception, at the M.O. Bar or at Café Un Deux Trois where they serve breakfast. Each and every staff member we got in touch with had a good command of English. And that was a rarity on our Taiwan trip. Staying at Mandarin Oriental came closest to a typical western hotel experience. All the other accommodations we lodged at in this country had more Taiwanese touches.

Rooms/Pricing

Out of the 330 rooms in total, you can choose among an array of categories. As to rooms, it starts with the Deluxe Room (55 sqm), then goes over the Mandarin Room (70 sqm) to the Mandarin Premier Room (70 sqm). Then, there is a number of suites. All accommodations are also available as Club versions, i.e. with access to The Oriental Lounge. As you may have noticed, all the rooms are oversized.

My husband and I opted for the Mandarin Premier Room. What it differentiates it from the Mandarin Room is the fact that it has two rooms. You find onsite a private master bedroom plus a living area.

The bathroom is generous, clad in marble and with a bathtub as well as a large walk-in shower.

The toilet (a Japanese version) is separated from it. The space is classically furnished with plush carpets and modern touches. And you have the benefit of a city view. The rate was 411 SFR/US$ for two per day with full breakfast (in March 2024).

We loved our Mandarin Premier Room. The one thing that I did not like was the lack of storage room. But this seems to be a general problem at hotels inTaiwan. Almost all the properties we stayed at made the impression of being designed for a short stay only. In addition, we often also encountered – at Mandarin Oriental Taipei too – “fake” furnitures where you could not store anything (?).

Restaurants at Mandarin Oriental Taipei

You find here six restaurants. Ya Ge is their flagship one serving Chinese food in an elegant ambiance and holding a Michelin star. Plus, there is Bencotto for contemporary Italian cuisine in a relaxed setting and Café Un Deux Trois where you get international cuisine in a casual atmosphere. For light meals, you can choose among The Jade Lounge (afternoon tea), M.O. Bar (drinks and snacks)

and The Mandarin Cake Shop (cakes and patisserie).

I have to admit that we only had breakfast at Café Un Deux Trois, which was fabulous. The space is huge, lively, and tables are packed close together. Yet staff tends to seat Westerners at quiet spots, which was appreciated by us.

We had seriously thought about booking a table at their Chinese place Ya Ge. It gets good reviews and is adequately priced. Ultimately, we opted to explore the dining scene outside the hotel to get a feel for “real” Taiwanese food culture.

Other facilities

Of course, Mandarin Oriental Taipei leaves nothing to be desired when it comes to spa and wellness! It boasts one of the most luxurious spas in town (3,500 sqm). There are heated water experiences, 12 treatment rooms, a yoga studio, a spa boutique, relaxation facilities and a 20-m/66 ft outdoor swimming pool.

Overall Mandarin Oriental Taipei as one of the best luxury accommodations in Taiwan

Mandarin Oriental Taipei is possibly the best luxury hotel in Taipei or even in Taiwan. Together with the adjoining shopping complex THE ARCADE it is a large-scale undertaking. Its opulent and eclectic Medieval European architecture is impressive yet might be a bit too much for Western Europeans. Everything at this glamorous hotel is of the highest standard. You almost cannot find fault with it. And the rates are affordable compared to many other MO branches in Europe. The only thing that I find slightly subpar is its location. It might be favorable for local business but not so for leisure travelers. Yet the proximity of the MRT somewhat compensates for this disadvantage.

2. Hotel Silks Club Kaohsiung

Hotel Silks Club in Kaohsiung, Taiwan’s most southern big city, was a real find! I had long thought about where to stay on the island’s south-western coast. Originally, I had been inclined to opt for Tainan, as it is probably the best city to experience Taiwanese history and culture. But none of its upscale hotels could fully persuade me. So, we settled for the nearby more cosmopolitan city of Kaohsiung.

And we did not regret it! We even considered our choice of accommodation as one of the best luxury hotels in Taiwan! Plus, we had three nights here, so we could use one of it for a day trip to Tainan.

Location

Silks Club sits in the heart of the Asia New Bay Area waterfront redevelopment, a bit south of the city center. While the hotel is not so centrally located as I had wished for, its situation can still be considered as good. It is within walking distance of two MRT stations and a Circular Light Rail station. You reach the Kaohsiung Railway Station and the Kaohsiung International Airport in about a 20-minute drive. To get to the Taiwan High Speed Rail Station allow more time, maybe 25 to 30 minutes by car (traffic can be heavy).

Having uttered some criticism about Silks Club’s location, they are in good company. Its two main competitors, InterContinental and TAI Urban Resort are nearby. And great restaurants are within easy reach as well as shopping opportunities (Dream Mall, Taiwan’s largest department store).

Ambiance/Staff at Silks Club Kaohsiung

Silks Club, opened in 2017, is part of the The Silks Hotel Group. This is the largest and most profitable hotel group listed on the Taiwan Stock Exchange. It operates the Regent Taipei and five other hotel brands, among them Silks Club and Silks Place. While the latter is about cultural luxury lifestyle hotels, the former is into art, design and boutique. This focus already shows when entering the premises of Silks Club Kaohsiung. You are immediately captured by the “Dancing Particles” (watch video when they are dancing: E378E91F-C384-436E-B2C4-36C67895026E_2_0_a ART+COM Studios) in the lobby.

The motion art sculpture features 168 metal spheres that float and dance above a pole of water, amazing! But there is more, works of over 200 artists are showcased throughout the hotel.

Apart from all the art that appears everywhere, the hotel’s interior design is remarkable too. It is a masterpiece in minimalistic magnificence. I would go so far as to say that is the most beautiful sleek, urban hotel I have seen lately. More to some features in the sections about rooms and restaurants.

As to the staff, I can only say respectively write positive things about it. That starts with the concierge/bell desk – where we chatted a few times to a nice employee –  and goes over to the staff at the restaurants as well as the hotel maintenance workers we were in touch. All were trained in the way of generous spirit. We felt well looked after and did not have to worry about a thing.

Rooms/Pricing

Silks Club Kaohsiung extends over 29 floors and features 147 guest rooms. There are only 6 to 10 units on each floor, and 3 elevators are at your disposal. As to room categories, the offer ranges from Deluxe King/Twin (59 sqm) to Premier King/Twin (66 sqm), Studio Deluxe King (63 sqm), Junior Suite King (80 sqm) and several suites.

My husband and I had chosen the most upscale room (not suite) with a twin bed. And that was a Premier Twin. What a great accommodation that was! We were on the 25th floor with wonderful city views. Not only it was spacious, but also outfitted with state-of-the-art comforts. These included special measures towards sound- and lightproofing, North American oak flooring and premium Italian handmade mattresses. It was kept in neutral hues with cool blue toned accents.

The bathroom was huge and made of marble. Separated from the oversized sink area there was a bath tub with view plus a shower. And yet in another (separated) part the toilet.

And imagine, all this came for the rate of 265 SFR/US$ for two per day including a full breakfast (April 2024)! The only thing that was suboptimal in our room was the slightly insufficient air-condition in the bathroom. It cooled down the adjacent walk-in closet rather than the sink area.

Restaurants

In terms of restaurants there is the fine-dining space of Ukai-tei with the adjoining Dassai Bar as well as the In Jade Lounge and Bar.

The latter is destined for breakfast, afternoon tea as well as drinks and snacks in the evening. The former offers a lunch and a dinner service. It is about the first overseas restaurant of the Japanese brand Ukai-tei. In Kaohsiung, you can choose among three dining-rooms, designed by interior designer Hashimoto Yukio: Ukai-tei Teppanyaki,

Ukai Kaiseki and Grill Ukai Kaohsiung. They are connected by a stunning spiral staircase. It came per ship in one piece and was placed into the construction before building the restaurant around it.

Breakfast at the In Jade Lounge was lovely. We could make our choice out of five set menus served on a tray.

In addition, we could help ourselves from a buffet. As to dinner, my husband and I went to Ukai-tei Teppanyaki where we had our own chef who prepared a fabulous Ukai Signature Wagyu Menu before our eyes.

Out of the three Japanese Wagyu main courses, we decided on the middle of three options (Sirloin for 5800 TWD / 161 SFR/US$; Rump/Tenderloin would have lost 4,800/6,500 TWD / 133/181 SFR/US$). That made it the most expensive meal of our Taiwan journey!

Other facilities

The hotel boasts a Valmont Spa, a sauna area, a well-equipped gym and a semi-open-air infinity pool. The latter can also be used for parties or events. Also the In Jade Lounge serves as a multiple function room for events of all kind.

Overall Silks Club Kaohsiung as one of the best luxury hotels in Taiwan

I have rarely seen a city hotel that is so cool, urban and stylish. Already the 4D kinetic art installation in the lobby set an example for what to expect at Silks Club Kaohsiung. And this continues throughout the hotel. They showcase art works from a mix of local artists and renowned international names that is unparalleled. Also the two-story Japanese restaurant with its unique spiral staircase is a sight. And the modern generously sized rooms are a traveler’s dream! Yet it is not only about style here, but the substance is persuasive as well. Service is immaculate, food is great, and facilities are state-of-the-art! Moreover, this high level of quality comes at a reasonable room price. However, the Signature Wagyu Menu at Restaurant Ukai-tei Teppanyaki has a high price tag. Notwithstanding that, Silks Club Kaohsiung is definitely one of the best luxury hotels in Taiwan.

3. The Lalu Sun Moon Lake

The Lalu on the Sun Moon Lake in the country’s center makes it into my top three luxury hotels in Taiwan because of the beauty of this place. While many aspects as to this accommodation were convincing, others were not. Even though, my husband and I were in awe of this stunning hotel with its unmatched lake views, serene ambiance and intriguing history.

Location

I already gave a spoiler, The Lalu’s location on the Lalu Pensinsula on Sun Moon Lake’s northern coastline is breathtakingly beautiful. It is situated at the foothills of the Central Mountain Range, just by the island’s largest body of water. Next to the small peninsula there is the main tourist village in the area, Shuishe. You get here either from the Taiwan’s west side (Taipei, Taichung or Kaohsiung) or from the east side (Taroko Gorge/Hualien). My husband and I did the latter, arriving by rental car. While this is a wonderful drive through the mountains (allow at least four hours), it is no easy thing (winding and narrow roads).

Ambiance/Staff

What started as a modest cabin in the Japanese colonial time, became later an official government guest house under the Japanese Crown Prince Hirohito and later under President Chiang Kai-Shek. In 20o2, it opened as a luxury hotel. It was rebuilt from the original palace, saving only its beams, columns and floor. All the rest was replaced. The architect in charge was the Australian Kerry Hill who had already designed several Aman hotels. His premise for The Lalu was “Ongoing style”. And in my humble opinion, he succeeded. The hotel is as fresh as it was when built. It is timeless design in perfection.

An interesting detail with The Lalu is the importance of lighting, which was integrated into the planning from the outset. At daytime for example, seven lighting changes occur at different times and in different settings. And you really notice, the hotel’s appearance seems to fluctuate during the course of a day. Yet, it is always a serene, harmonious place. Gazing at the lake from here has such a calming effect on you.

As to the staff, not everyone seems to feel that magic. Whereas the front desk’s performance was immaculate, this was not always the case at the bar and the restaurants. More details on that follows in the section about restaurants.

Rooms/Pricing

There are 96 rooms in total. All to them are suites, sizable (at least 83 sqm) and have a separate living room. An exception here are the Courtyard Pool Villas (333 sqm), which have instead a lounge, a courtyard and an outdoor dining pavilion (there is a handful of them). The least expensive room is the Courtyard Suite – where lake view might be obstructed. The next more expensive is the Lakeside Suite 2nd to 3rd floor, then follows the Lakeview Suite 5th to 7th floor. The top end accommodation is the above mentioned Courtyard Pool Villa. Plus, you also find onsite Lakeview Suites with two bedrooms.

We had opted for a Lakeview Suite on an upper floor and were delighted by ours on the 7th floor! The room was kept in a minimal Zen-like design with lots of wood. There was a spacious, tastefully furnished living room,

which was separated from the bedroom by the television and a closet.

The bathroom was in granite with a large bath tub. And the balcony spanned the full length of the accommodation, offering absolutely stunning lake views. Lying on the outdoor daybed (for two) and letting our gaze wander was such a relaxing thing to do!

The rate for this Lakeview Suite amounted to 599 SFR/US$ for two per day including a full breakfast.

Restaurants

There is quite a choice when it comes to restaurants at The Lalu. Open to the public are The Lake View Chinese Restaurant (fine dining)

and the Oriental Brasseries (Asian & Western contemporary cuisine in a relaxed ambiance). The other three only admit hotel guests and members. It is about The Japanese Restaurant (modern cuisine & Teppanyaki),

The Lobby Bar (drinks & snacks)

and The Tea House (snacks, desserts & tea, only at daytime).

We had breakfast at the Oriental Brasseries, which was solid but not really exceptional. Then we had dinner at both the Chinese

and the Japanese place.

While food in both places was good, the service was not. At the former, we were poorly advised about how many dishes to choose. At the latter, the servers put the dishes in front of us without any explanations (set menu). And at the bar, the bar maid was not welcoming, and this on two occasions. Bottom line, service at the restaurants at The Lalu leaves much to be desired – that is a pity!

Other facilities

You find a spa in the hotel’s east wing where you are in here for massage treatments, saunas, steam rooms, a gym and a hot spring. And there are complimentary yoga classes. The infinitive pool lined with lots of sun beds is great. It is 60 m/ 197 ft long and offers splendid lake views.

Overall as The Lalu as one of the best luxury accommodations in Taiwan

The Lalu is an absolutely stunning property in an unbeatable location with wonderful lake views. The rooms are beautiful and spacious. This is true for most of its communal spaces too, the lobby, the bar or the Japanese restaurant (however some limit the access to hotel guests and members). Also the pool and the adjoining tea house are feasts for the eyes. The front desk service is immaculate, but the one at the Chinese and the Japanese restaurants as well as at the bar do not meet the standard of a high-end five-star property. In terms of food, we had good although not really memorable dinners at the above mentioned dining spots. Regardless of The Lalu’s flaws, it definitely is part of the best luxury hotels in Taiwan.

What about the other three hotels of our Taiwan trip? 

As hinted, we stayed at six luxury hotels on our Taiwan trip. And you already know that we were in favor of all of them. If you want to know more about the individual places, check out my Taiwan one-week and two-week itineraries. Follow the links below:

• Silks Place Taroko
• Gloria Manor Kenting
• Grand View Resort Beitou

Looking back and ahead on my Taiwan journey

So far, I have published considerations to make when planning a (luxury) Taiwan trip, a one-week itinerary (Taiwan’s north) and a two-week itinerary (whole island, the one my husband and I did). Next on my blog – and the last Taiwan post – is about my three restaurant highlights in this country. And they are all fine-dining spots, as we consider ourselves as gourmets. It is our aim to indulge in great food not only at home in Switzerland but also when traveling. Yet we always have an eye on value for money too!

Date of stay: April 2024

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Now it is to the details of a two-week Taiwan itinerary. My last post was about a one-week travel plan comprising the island’s north. If you have two weeks at your disposal, then you can also travel Taiwan’s south. Plus, you have the option to build in one more stay in the north. Such a travel plan allows you to take your time and to explore sights in the respective surroundings too. Again, I only included stops that ensure travel in style. That means places where you find options for staying at luxury hotels and dining at (Michelin) gourmet restaurants. Yet – as always – , I only considered establishments offering value for money.

There are six stops in total. Compared to the one-week itinerary that I described in my last post, there are three more. Two are in the south (Kenting National Park and Kaohsiung), one is in the north (a second Taipei stay). Find in the following my Google Map of a 17-day road trip in Taiwan that my husband and I did. It can be shortened to 14 days without any problems:

Overview on my Google Map of our 17-day Taiwan itinerary

As you could see, we started and ended the journey in Taipei with four stops in-between. The first stop was on the Island’s northeast, at the Taroko Gorge near the seaside town of Hualien. Then we traveled inland to Sun Moon Lake in the foothills of the Central Mountain Range. We continued towards south to the Kenting National Park. And before returning to Taipei, we had our one and only stay in a big city apart from Taipei, and this in Kaohsiung.

As I already went into the first three stops in my mentioned one-week travel plan, you find in this post about a two-week Taiwan itinerary only explanations to the last three ones (Kenting National Park, Kaohsiung and north Taipei). Again, I start with a short description of the respective town/region. Then I let you know what to do here in a few sentences. Finally, I go briefly into each of the high-end hotels we stayed and the (Michelin) fine dining spots we ate.

A 17-day Taiwan round trip with six stops in style

See details to stop 1 – 3 here

4. Kenting National Park (south, 2 nights)

About

The Kenting National Park occupies the entire southern tip of the country. And while Kenting is said to have the best beaches in Taiwan, they are subpar to those of typical beach destinations. Nonetheless, the area boasts a lovely coastal scenery and is well worth a full-day exploring.

Things to do here include: walk in the Sheding Natural Park with its huge coral rocks (volunteers guide you around if you wish), Sail “Nixon” Rock, Taiwan’s southernmost point, Longpan Park (great coastal views)

and Hengchun (old city wall with four ancient gates,

Old Street

with Patisserie Ce Moment).

Hotel: Gloria Manor

This is yet another property that has a connection to the former president Chiang Kai-shek. It used to be one of his presidential guesthouses. And this is easy to understand in light of the picturesque mountain and sea scenery you find here. The hotel is remotely located inside the Kenting National Forest Recreation Area, surrounded by tropical greenery.

Gloria Manor took over the site in 2012. The building convinces with minimalistic design that blends nicely into the natural setting. You find here 60 rooms in a range of categories. Yet it does have to be one with a sea view as this is probably the main attraction of staying here.

Breakfasts are excellent, you can make your choice out of several ones served on a tray.

And you can have it also in the pleasant outdoor area. Mu is the only restaurant on site, find some details below.

Restaurants: Mu Restaurant (at Hotel Gloria Manor)

At Gloria Manor’s Mu Restaurant you get excellent Taiwan cuisine with a modern twist. And the place strictly adheres to the principle “not in season, not on the menu”. The setting is relaxed yet still with an upscale touch. My husband and I dined here on both evenings and liked what we got. Good choices from the à la carte menu were Wonton Soup, Crab Omelet, Fried Rice with Pineapple & Dolphinfish, Mango Pomelo Sago or Baked Pudding.

There is also a set menu (1,680 TWD / 47 SFR/US$).

5. Kaohsiung (south, 3 nights)

About

Kaohsiung is Taiwan’s third most populous city and is home to the island’s largest port. While it long used to be an industrial city, it has been reorienting itself toward tourism as well as art and culture since since the turn of the millennium. This shows in the vast Pier-2 Art Center where former shipping warehouses were turned into shops and cafés. And there are museums, art installations and street art. I for one liked the dynamic vibe of Kaohsiung!

As to more classic sights here, the scenic Lotus Pond in the north of the city is an good place to go. It is known for its 20 temples or so along the shoreline and nearby.

And there is the Confucius Temple too. Another big name attraction in the area is the Fo Guang Shan Monastery, outside of town, which is the largest in all of Taiwan and quite a sight.

Last but not least, we used Kaohsiung for a day trip to Tainan. This is Taiwan’s original capital and still retains a traditional vibe. Go to the city center first (Confucius Temple, Hayashi Departement Store, Snail Alley & Shennong Street, two quaint streets;

then proceed to the Anping District (Anping Fort, Anping Old Street, Anping Treehouse).

Hotel: Silks Club

Silks Club is one kind of a cool, urban hotel, attracting business and leisure travelers alike. It is located in the emerging neighborhood of Qianzhen, opened in 2017. Already the sleek lobby with the reflecting pool of water impresses.

And it continues when it comes to the rooms. The 147 units have an average size of 66 sqm, floor-to-ceiling windows and oversized bathrooms.

The place for breakfast is In Jade Lounge – you get it on a tray plus there is small buffet, and it is a tasty affair.

You can also come here for drinks in the evening. The restaurant, a branch of the Japanese Ukai Tei, is divided into several sub-spots (Teppanyaki, Kaiseki & Grill). Find more info on the former below.

Restaurants: Ukai-tei Teppanyaki (at Silks Club), Marc L³ & Sho

For our Kaohsiung food adventures, my husband and I chose three Michelin dining spots. One even has a Michelin star (Sho), two are on the 50Best Discovery list (Sho & Marc L³).

I start with the “hotel restaurant”, Ukai-tea Teppanyki, where they serve a Wagyu menu (Rump 4,800 TWD, Sirloin 5,800 TWD, Tenderloin 6,500 TWD). We opted for the Sirloin (161 SFR/US$) and could witness quality ingredients being cooked on the iron plate right before our eyes. And we even had a chef who exclusively cooked for the two of us! That was quite an experience, especially when it was up to the preparation of the abalone (from live to death).

Our favorite dinner in Kaoshiung and probably on our whole Taiwan trip was the one at Marc L³. The three L’s stand for Live x Liberal x Limitless. Reservations here are difficult to get, and we had to pay our meal in advance (which was not a no-brainer to arrange). Yet, once seated at the counter (9 seats only), we were in for culinary magic! Unique French fare was prepared in front of us, and this as eight-course menu (3,960 TWD / 112 SFR/US$) in a relaxed ambiance.

And the chef is such a nice guy too, communicative, approachable and amiable! What a great evening we had here!

Dining at Sho, an outpost of the Tokyo famed Den Restaurant, was a epicurean highlight as well. We were treated to an exquisite Japanese meal with creative touches. Quite in contrast to Marc L³, it took place in a somewhat chilly ambiance. The place – a counter with 14 seats – had an almost clinical appearance. Notwithstanding that, we truly enjoyed the tasting menu (3,500 TWD + rice upgrade 700 TWD / 119 SFR/US$). And if you are wondering about the rice upgrade, go for it! It is a traditional rice dish cooked in an iron pot called a kama, once with Wagyu and the other time with scallops.

6. Taipei (Beitou District, north of the center, 3 nights)

About

Our second stay in Tapei was in Beitou, the capital’s most northern district. While it is not too far away from Taipei’s center (half an hour by MRT), it has a less urban feel. The hilly area is known for its hot springs and is close to beautiful nature.

We had planned to explore Taiwan’s north from Beitou. Yet we only managed to do one such day trip because of not so good weather. And this was to Jiufen,

a seaside town in the lush mountains northeast of Taipei (book a Taiwan tea time at Jiufen Artist Teahouse, expensive yet worthwhile;

escape the crowds by hiking the Jinguashi Aqueduct Trail). We left out the second one to Yangmingshan National Park on Taipei’s northern fringe. Instead, we headed to central Taipei once again, to the University District. And it was lively, even on a Sunday. And do not miss the sights in Beitou: Thermal Valley, Puji Temple,

Beitou Library, Xinbeitou Historic Station.

Hotel: Grand View Resort Beitou

While Beitou is not the first address for first timers to Taipei seeking to explore the city to the fullest, it was ideal for our purposes. Having already done the capital’s major sights, we longed for a quiet place to spend our last few days in Taiwan. Staying here is the best of both worlds: being in relative proximity to Taipei’s center and at the same surrounded by nature.

Grand View Resort Beitou is the most luxurious among the many hot-spring hotels that make use of the sulfurous hot-spring water that bubbles from the ground. The relatively large and modern property (opened in 2011) stands high on a slope with beautiful views of Beitou and beyond.

All the 66 guest rooms are spacious and come with hot-spring bathrooms, allowing a private soaking experience. I think the accommodations could use a little touch up, especially the wet area (the moisture from the hot springs does not help).

Breakfasts are really good here, served on a tray. And they even offered another variety on our third day. There are three restaurants, from which we tried out two (we did not eat at Aqua Deck with light continental food). Find more details in the next section.

Restaurants: Chinese Cuisine & C’est Bon (both at Hotel Grand View Resort)

We had dinner every evening at Hotel Grand View Resort Beitou. As I had read good things about the Chinese Cuisine – it is Michelin listed – , we went there twice.

One evening, we tried out the French place, C’est Bon.

While both offered fine food, we found C’est Bon better. We had a lovely dinner here indulging in immaculately prepared French food with a Taiwanese twist. Out of the four set menus, we ordered the one with Boston Lobster (3,080 TWD / 87 SFR/USD$), and we relished it.

As to the Chinese place, we had a not so good dining experience on our first evening. Whereas the food was good (we had opted for à la carte), service and setting were less so. Everything was better on our second dinner – we had the Vegetarian Set Menu (2,280 TWD / 64 SFR/US$). Yet C’est Bon has our love!

Looking back and ahead on my Taiwan journey

The start made some considerations to bear in mind when planning a (luxury) Taiwan trip (my post), followed by a proposal for one-week itinerary here. This is actually the first part of the journey my husband and I did on this island. It includes the three major travel highlights in this country, Taipei, Taroko Gorge and Sun Moon Lake. As luxury traveler and  fine dining lover, I also give recommendations as to where to stay and dine in style. In addition, I go into what to do in all theses places, plus some ideas for side trips. In this very post, you get the same thing, yet for the second part of our trip. Taken together, you have info on our original 17-day itinerary (that you can shorten to a 2-week Taiwan itinerary). Next on my blog, you will find out about my personal hotel and restaurant highlights in Taiwan in some more details.

Date of stay: April 2024

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While my last post went into general considerations to make when planning a Taiwan trip, this one is about a concrete one-week itinerary. When my husband and I toured beautiful Formosa – as it was called by its discoverers – , we actually had 17 days at our disposal (for the whole island). Yet, you can shorten the journey to one week (north only). This still allows you to see the island’s three major highlights – Taipei, Taroko Gorge and Sun Moon Lake. And my one-week proposal is about a Taiwan trip in style, meaning staying in luxury hotels and dining in (Michelin) gourmet restaurants (if available).

Before coming to the details of the three individual stops, here my Google Map of this one-week Taiwan trip.

Overview on my Google Map of a 1-week Taiwan itinerary

No Taiwan trip is complete without exploring its capital of Taipei. While I put it as first destination on my Google Map, you can of course also do it at the end of the journey. The second stop is on the Island’s northeast, at the Taroko Gorge near the seaside town of Hualien. Then you travel inland to Sun Moon Lake in the foothills of the Central Mountain Range before returning to Taipei.

I start with a short description of the respective place. Then I let you know what to do here in a few sentences. Last but not least, I go briefly into a high-end hotel and some nearby (Michelin) fine dining spots.

A 1-week Taiwan round trip with three stops in style

1. Taipei (Songshan District, near the city center, 3 nights)

About

Taipei is a must for every Taiwan traveler. You find here a fascinating mix of Chinese, Japanese, indigenous and western influences. And although it is a deeply urban place, nature is never too far away. So, it is the ideal starting and/or ending point for your island exploring.

When it comes to activities, Taipei 101 for a view of the city and the Elephant Mountain for a view of Taipei 101 are musts for first timers to Taipei. Also the political Taipei around the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall has to be on every traveler’s agenda.

Further things to do are the Dihua Old Street,

The Dalongdong Baoan Temple

and the nearby Confucius Temple.

Hotel: Mandarin Oriental Taipei

Before setting off on our Taiwan round trip, we lodged at the Mandarin Oriental in the Songshan District. This business district (financial industry) is an okay location for exploring Taipei, however not the most ideal one. Most sights are in the following districts: Zhongzheng, Wanhua, Datong, Xinyi and Da’an. And Songshan is slightly too far north and east compared to the before mentioned ones. Yet, you are close to a MRT station and once on the subway, you get everywhere quickly enough.

As to the hotel, it is opulent indeed. While being a newly built complex (opened in 2014 together with THE ARCADE, a shopping center), it is reminiscent of Medieval European architecture in an eclectic style.

The 303 guest rooms are more spacious than at its competitors. They are classically furnished with contemporary touches and boast generous marbled bathrooms.

And you get a fabulous breakfast at Café Un Deux Trois, a modern buffet style restaurant. Service is as excellent as you might expect it with this prestigious hotel group. And rates are affordable enough, in contrast to many other MO hotels in Europe.

Restaurants: Holt & Hosu

UPDATE: Restaurant Holt’s website is no longer available

We did not have dinner at Mandarin Oriental Taipei – except some small bites in the M.O. Bar after a late arrival on our first day in Taiwan (which were good).

Instead we had decided on two Michelin listed restaurants in the adjacent neighborhood.

Holt is a one-star Michelin restaurant offering exquisite contemporary European food. On our evening, they still served creations by Canadian chef Jeffery Downs, although he had already left for good in the direction of his home country. We were told that they are now in a rebranding process.

The tasting menu we got (3,980 TWD / 112 SFR/US$) was one of the trip’s highlight food wise delivering very high quality.

While Holt was really great yet very European, we were keen on trying food prepared in a more Taiwanese way. So, we had opted for Hosu, a modern Taiwanese dining spot, which is Michelin listed. And we were delighted by this cute little place whose name means “Good Island”. They served a tasting menu (2,880 TWD / 81 SFR/US$) that surprised at every turn.

2. Taroko Gorge (northeast, 2-3 days)

Currently largely closed due to earthquake in April 2024!

About

Taroko Gorge is one of Taiwan’s top scenic attractions. It is a steep valley created by the Liwu river and makes part of the Taroko National Park. The first 18 km/11 mi of Highway 8, coming from Taiwan’s east coast, are what is known as Taroko Gorge. The thing to do here are hikes of various lengths. Usually one full day is enough to get quite a good insight. My husband and I stayed three nights here, and this right inside the gorge.

As to actual things to do, be advised that usually one or more sights or trails are closed (it is a geologically active site). So, check what is open before you go. We did the following activities (on one full day): Swallow Grotto (short walk), Buluowan Suspension Bridge (crossing the bridge only), Eternal Spring Shrine Trial (closed, you could only walk to the first Shrine), Baiyang Trail to Water Curtain Cave (we did not go in, one and a half hour),

Lushui Trail (only a short part, closed after Small Cave).

The second day, we made a day trip to the Hualien area and a bit more in the south direction. It lead us along the east coast to Qixingtan Beach, Qizingtan (quaint seaside town), Baqi Viewpoint (nice),

Jiqi Beach, Fengbin Skywalk (closed) and Xin She Rice Terraces. Then we returned inland via the towns of Guangfu, Fenglin and Shoufeng. Here we made a side trip to Liyu Lake before going back to the Taroko Gorge.

Hotel: Silks Place Taroko

Closed until mid 2024 due to earthquake in April 2024!

As announced, the hotel is located within the Taroko Gorge. Precisely, it is in Tianxiang, a small village at the top of the gorge, about one hour from Hualien City. If you value the best possible situation for exploring the Taroko Gorge, then you are right here. The property used to be an official government guest house under the regime of president Chiang Kai-shek. In 2010, it opened after a renovation as Silks Place Taroko.

While the hotel’s exteriors are not necessarily a feast for the eyes, its interiors are nice, kept in a contemporary style. The 160 rooms are split over two floors, the Retreat Floor and Resort Floor. The former are more luxurious and offer access to the top floor Retreat Lounge where complimentary snacks and drinks are served all day.

As a Retreat Floor guest, you can have breakfast at either the Wellesley Buffet or the Retreat Lounge (served on a tray). For dinner, you can choose between the mentioned Wellesley Buffet or the Chinese Restaurant. Details to both of them follow in the next section.

Restaurants: Mei Yuan & Wellesley Buffet (both at Hotel Silks Place Resort)

As to the food at Hotel Silks Place Taroko, it was not the best we experienced on our Taiwan trip yet still decent enough. We had opted to be on half board and had to choose where we wanted to have dinner twice. As we do not like buffet restaurants, we went to the Chinese restaurant Mei Yuan on two evenings. And we had Shabu Shabu Hot Pot both times, yet we did not mind. This because it was prepared with good quality ingredients (which are boiled in a pot with soup in front of you).

When it comes to the Wellesley Buffet, we were quite a bit underwhelmed by the experience. Again, the quality of food was high and there was a wide range of culinary options. And the staff ensured that the buffet was kept immaculately.

Yet, it was like being in a bee house, with guests buzzing around and voices overlapping in every direction. It was not like something I expected from a five-star property.

3. Sun Moon Lake (center, 2-3 days)

About

Sun Moon Lake, at the foothills of the Central Mountain Range, is the island’s largest body of water. It is at an altitude of 762 m/2,500 ft and a hugely popular destination. And it is indeed a beautiful scenic view.

There are two lakeside towns, Shuishe village (more touristy) and Ita Thao (home of the Thao aboriginal tribe).

If you wonder what to do here, you can go boating, hiking, cycling and stand-up paddle boarding. However, swimming is not allowed (except at the annual mass swim). As to sights, visit the Wenwu Temple (view from the grounds above it towards the lake is splendid),

walk up to Ci En Pagoda (climb up to the top of it for the view) and go to the Antique Assam Tea Farm (self-guided tour, café & shop).

In case you have two full days in Sun Moon Lake as we had, consider a day trip to the Alishan High Mountain tea fields. Here Taiwan’s most famous tea (Oolong) grows. A good place to spend  a day is the small mountain village of Shizhuo. You can make the most beautiful hikes on the Shizhuo Trails System,

buy tea at the Lin Yuan Tea Factory (oldest tea grower in the area) and make a side trip to another village, Fenqihu (old street).

Hotel: The Lalu Sun Moon Lake

This is yet a former official government guest house of president Chiang Kai-shek. After extensive renovations, it was opened as a luxury hotel in 2002. And this is quite a property! It occupies a peninsula next to the Shuishe village. The hotel spans three buildings that blend harmoniously with the surrounding forested hillside. You have fantastic lake views from almost everywhere at the hotel. It is of a timeless Zen-like design.

All the 96 rooms except some stand-alone villas face the lake

and are exceptionally roomy.

Breakfast is served in the Oriental Brasserie and consists of a huge buffet with a diverse food offer, although it is not so geared towards western tastes. In terms of dining, five restaurants are at your disposal, although some only cater for room guests and member. Find out more about how it is dining at their two flagship dining-spots below.

Restaurants: The Lake View Chinese Restaurant, The Japanese Restaurant (both at The Lala) & KEN CAN by Ken Chan (at Hotel Fleur de Chine)

Both, the Lake View Chinese Restaurant and The Japanese Restaurant, were not as good as I had hoped for. While both offered good food, other aspects were not that satisfying. As far as the Chinese place (à la carte) is concerned, neither the banquet hall-like setting nor the service – we were poorly advised – were persuasive.

However, the Japanese spot (set menu at 3,600 TWD / 101 SFR/US$ with U.S. beef fillet) has an attractive setting (no view). When it comes to service, it was not much better than its Chinese counterpart (not many explanations to the food).

The good news in the Sun Moon Lake area is that there is an excellent gourmet restaurant around at the competitor hotel of Fleur de Chine. It is about KEN CAN by Ken Chan.

It is the second spot of this three-star Michelin chef at Hotel Palais de Chine in Taipei. If you are a foodie and have only one evening in the area, then dine here! We were delighted by the creative Cantonese set menu (3,980 TWD / 112 SFR/US$) as well as the courteous and informative service.

Looking back and ahead on my Taiwan journey

While this post went into a one-week itinerary of a Taiwan trip in style, the next is dedicated to a two-week one. Whereas the former only goes to the island’s north – yet covers the country’s three major highlights – , the second brings you to whole Taiwan. This longer journey has the same stops as the before mentioned Taiwan one-week itinerary plus three more. I started my reporting on this island with some considerations to make when planning a luxury trip to this island (my post). Two more blogposts to follow will highlight my personal highlights in terms of high-end lodging and (Michelin) fine dining restaurants.

Date of stay: April 2024

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The post Taiwan in style, a 1-week road trip itinerary first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Taiwan in style, a 1-week road trip itinerary appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Is Bhutan on your bucket list for your next vacations? Then I have not only lots of travel information about the Land of the Thunder Dragon for you (see next section), but also suggestions where to go for a pre- or post-Bhutan stay in style. Doing so is for all those a necessity who come from a distant country of origin. When my husband and I went to Bhutan recently, we flew via Bangkok. Thus, we opted for staying in Bangkok before flying to our final destination. On our return to Bangkok, we drove on to Hua Hin, a seaside resort south of the capital, for a few quiet days on the beach.

After a short look at my Bhutan mini series, you will find more details from which cities you can get to Bhutan (Bangkok is not the only option). Plus, there will be some advice where to stay at great luxury hotels in those places. Then I come to the actual topic, my pre- and post-Bhutan stays in Thailand.

My mini series about Bhutan

As announced, there is more content on my blog about visiting Bhutan. I started with a travel guide, continued with a perfect 9-day itinerary and informed about touring the country by arrangements of the three luxury hotel brands operating here. As we had opted for COMO as a provider – alternatives are Aman or Six Senses – , you learn in a further post how it was. And just now, I am setting the end point of my Bhutan mini-series, detailing opportunities for ideal pre and post travel plans.

From where to fly to Bhutan?

As mentioned above, you can fly to Bhutan via Thailand. When my husband and I did this at the beginning of April, there were no direct flights from Bangkok. Instead, the plane made a short stop in Dhaka/Bangladesh – where you could stay on board. At the time, you could only fly to Bhutan once a day, and this starting at 5 am and landing in Paro/Bhutan at 08.30 am. The flight was carried out by Drukair, one of two airlines flying to the Land of the Thunder Dragon.

Alternatively, you may fly into Paro from India. When doing so, you may choose between Delhi, Kolkata, Guwahati and Bagdogra. As I can safely assume that the first one is your best choice as a Westerner, here are suggestions as to where to stay in Delhi. And when you are in the area, do not miss a side trip to Agra/Taj Mahal. This is such a worthwhile thing to do!

Another option is it to fly via Singapore. Here is advice which hotel to choose here as a discerning traveler. Finally, you may fly to Bhutan via Kathmandu/Nepal (where I have not been to).

Pre- & post-Bhutan stays in Thailand

As my husband and I have never visited Thailand before, we appreciated the chance to get to know this destination a bit more. We settled for three nights in Bangkok and four nights in Hua Hin, a beach town in Bangkok’s south. While this may sound of quite long stays for stopovers, it actually was not. This because of two reasons. First, we had to leave our hotel in Bangkok at 2 am in the morning of our third night to catch our flight to Bhutan. Second, after returning to Bangkok from Bhutan, we only arrived at our hotel in Hua Hin at 9 pm.

While Bangkok was given as pre-Bhutan stay from the outset,

we thought longer about our post-Bhutan one. We contemplated flying to Kos Samui (flight time 1 h 05 min) or Phuket (flight time 1 h 20 min), Thailand’s most popular vacation destinations. Yet, we were daunted by the thought of more flights. As to upscale beach towns not too far away from Bangkok, there is not much around. Pattaya Beach, the city of sins (2 h by car), was not really an option for us. So, we decided to give Hua Hin (3-4 h by car) a try.

A pre-Bhutan stay in Bangkok

We had heard much about Bangkok, the good and the not so good. Yet, we were positively surprised about its vibe. Of course, it is a modern city nowadays, with lots of skyscrapers and traffic. Yet, if you search hard enough, you find some glimpses of the “old” Bangkok too. While traffic is bad at many times, the drivers are usually well behaved. And yes, at the beginning of April, we had already missed the best travel time for Bangkok (November to February).

When it comes to staying in style in Bangkok, there is an immense number of options. I have not really looked into it as our hotel was fixed from the beginning. Only so much, if I were free to choose I would opt for a luxury hotel by the river

not far away from the Grand Palace and Wat Arun (maybe Mandarin Oriental, Four Seasons or Capella). In our case, we made use of a special combination offer by COMO Hotels and Resorts (our choice for Bhutan lodging). Actually, we had two nights free at their Bangkok branch, COMO Metropolitan. And here is how it was.

Hotel COMO Metropolitan Bangkok

As I outlined above, booking COMO Bhutan for your touring the Land of the Thunder Dragon comes along with special rates at COMO Metropolitan Bangkok (just send COMO Buthan an email). My husband and I happily took the occasion as we had liked our stays at other COMO branches (London, Miami).

COMO Metropolitan Bangkok was built in 2003 and last renovated in 2016. It is a modern high-rise building with 11 floors featuring 169 rooms.

Location

While I rate its location in the central business district of Sathorn as good, I personally think it is better to stay near the Chao Phraya river. This allows you not only to see river life close up but also brings you in proximity to ferries. And traveling on the water is often faster and more relaxing than by other means of transport in this city plagued by traffic. And the latter is especially bad on Sathon Road, where the COMO hotel is located. That said, it is situated in a quiet side street where you are not exposed to noise.

Whereas you need about 40 minutes to reach the river by foot, you are only ten minutes away from the nearest metro station (MRT, Blue Line, Lumphini). Plus, there are numerous great restaurants nearby. And one of the best rooftop bars in town, the Moon Bar at Banyan Tree Hotel, is just round the corner.

Rooms/Pricing at COMO Metropolitan Bangkok

You find quite a wide range of room categories at COMO Metropolitan Bangkok: City Room (26-39 sqm, from 123 US$), Studio Room (43 sqm, from 138 US$), Metropolitan Room (51-54 sqm, from 146 US$), Terrace Room (80 sqm, from 174 US$). Plus, there are three different kind of suites. Price wise, you get away inexpensively. This is especially true compared to luxury front river hotels just as the three I mentioned above. These will easily cost you double or triple.

As mentioned, we spent three nights here, at a discounted rate. And we had a Metropolitan Room Twin.

Metropolitan Room

Our room was on the highest floor with a beautiful view of the central business district of Sathorn.

As to its style, it is sleek with clean lines and neutral colors. While it is predominantly kept in a western style, you also find the one or other eastern accent.

The bathroom is spacious, with the same view as the bedroom. There is a large open shower and a separate tub, all in limestone.

Unfortunately, there is only one, rather small sink, although you could have made two of them without difficulties (enough space).

My husband and I felt at ease here as the room was generously sized and offered lots of natural light from the floor-to-ceiling windows.

Ambiance/Staff at COMO Metropolitan Bangkok

There is an atmosphere of calm and pleasant minimalism throughout the property. As to the rooms, you clearly notice a western vibe yet discreetly paired with eastern touches.

Staff at the reception and the doormen were friendly, helpful and attentive. When it comes to the restaurant (Nahm, modern Thai), I have mixed feelings. As to breakfast, we had no issues.

Dinner was a bit different. While everyone around us got one dish after the other, we had to wait one hour for our amuse bouche. When we inquired about the delay, we got an unsatisfactory response from the waiter. Once the dinner (tasting menu) finally took off, there was an ongoing coming of plates (many at the same time). And the last one was served in less than an hour from the starting time! This is not what a tasting menu is supposed to be! On the positive side, food was good.

Plus, at one time, a friendly female maître d’ came by the table to chat to us.

Facilities/Restaurants 

On site you find a wellness center, the largest of all COMO city hotels. It comes with ten treatment rooms, a 25 m/82 ft outdoor lap pool, a fitness room, a yoga studio, steam rooms and hydro pools.

As to dining at COMO Metropolitan Bangkok, I already mentioned their one and only restaurant Nahm. You get here a modern take on traditional Thai fare. I will go into this Michelin one-star restaurant in more details in a separate post to come about fine dining restaurants in Bangkoks’s Sathorn district.

A post-Bhutan stay in Hua Hin/Thailand

Before singling out Hua Hin as our destination for a relaxing time on the beach after our Bhutan journey (see above), I have never heard about this place. As I learned later, the rather provincial town of Hua Hin has become a popular getaway for both locals and tourists. And this not least to its easy accessibility from Bangkok.

What once began as a quiet fishing village, turned into a summer retreat for Thai royalty in the early 20th century and later also drew Bangkok’s nobility. Nowadays, lots of upscale second homes line the beach front.

As to the latter, it does not earn a prize for being one of the most beautiful ones in Thailand, yet it is not too bad either. The most known is Hua Hin Beach, which stretches for about 5 kilometers (3 miles). It is nice for a long walk, although, in certain parts, much of the beach disappears during high tide.

Aside from being a beach resort, Hua Hin is known for its night markets, numerous golf courses and wellness offers. If you want to do some sightseeing, I would not qualify it as super ideal for this purpose.

As to staying in style, there are some places that fall in this category. Yet, you are not really spoiled for choice here. Now to where my husband and I resided during our four-night stay, and this was at The Barai.

Hotel The Barai Hua Hin/Thailand

While The Barai was opened as standalone luxury hotel and spa in 2007 by Hyatt Hotels, it became affiliated with the adjoining Hyatt Regency Hua Hin Resort in 2012. It is very boutique, with eight suites only.

Location

The Barai is situated about 4 km/2.5 mi south of downtown Hua Hin. I would not encourage you to walk to the town center as the way leads along the busy, nondescript main road. However, you might think about doing so along the beach, for which you need about an hour.

By car, you reach downtown in about ten minutes, but only if traffic is light. This may not be the case on evenings and weekends.

As to other attractions nearby, there are two night markets, open from Friday to Sunday. On the one hand, there is the Cicada Market for predominantely non-food products like art, jewelry, clothing and handcrafted things. On the other hand, you find here the Tamarind Market for foods.

Rooms/Pricing at The Barai Hua Hin

There are eight suites in four two-storey villas.

In case you opt for downstairs (The Barai Pool Suite) as my husband and I did, you are in for a verandah,

plunge pool and garden.

If you go for upstairs (The Barai Balcony Suite), you have a balcony (5 sqm) with sea view.

Both have in common 101 to 144 sqm of space, an oversized king bed (3 m/10 ft wide!),

an entry hall with daybeds, a dining area as well as separate coffee and tea stations,

a huge bathtub with two oversized daybeds,

two individual walk-in closets with bathroom for him and her and a sizable shower (with steam function).

Included in the room rate are a butler service, a daily 60-minute massage treatment for two, an in-suite aromatherapy steam and milk bath (prepared by your butler), laundry service for two items per day, as well as full breakfast, all-day beverages, pre-dinner drinks and snacks (all served at Restaurant McFarland House).

The total package is really impressive! The Barai Pool Suite (101 – 124 sqm) is available from 541 US$, The Barai Balcony Suite (144 sqm) from 495 US$. Another accommodation is also part of the The Barai, the Presidential Pool Villa. It is suitable for a maximum of six adults and comes with a private pool, garden and beach as well as kitchenette, study room and dining table for eight persons (434 sqm, rate upon request).

Ambiance/Staff

As a guest at The Barai, you have to check-in and check-out at the “regular” Hyatt Regency, all the rest is separate. On the hotel’s premises, you also find a restaurant (McFarland House, see below), which is – of course – open to the public. It is the place where you have breakfast when staying at The Barai. Those from other parts of the Hyatt premises may also do so if they wish, but not within a bed and breakfast package. On our four breakfasts, there were never many other people around. It always felt quiet, as it was the case throughout The Barai property. It really had an exclusive feel!

What stood out at The Barai was the excellent butler service. Their staff already got it touch before our stay to arrange bookings for the included daily massage. After check-in at the main reception, a butler picked us up and gave us all the necessary information on the hotel. Every morning, someone from them checked on us during breakfast. When our daily massage came up, one of the team appeared to accompany us to the spa. They also reconfirmed our dinner reservations, organized transport to the restaurants and picked us up to bring us to our car driver.

As to the other staff, the one at the McFarland House was friendly enough. At the spa, we only had contact with the masseuses, who were immaculate (the administrative part at the reception was done by our butler).

Bottom line, it was a very pleasant stay in beautiful and serene surroundings, being pampered all day long!

Facilities/Restaurants

As I already mentioned here at several occasions, the spa plays an important role at The Barai. The name goes back to barays, large reservoirs created by the Khmers for use of their daily life. They were considered as life-determining, yet also a source of their spiritual wellbeing. Here at The Barai, these barays are remembered, both in the construction of the spa

and the tranquility court, a 30 m-/100 ft-long unique swimming channel in a court.

As to the spa treatments, they marry traditional Thai rituals and innovative western therapies. 18 single and double treatment rooms are on offer here at this maze-like red building, where the light is caught to reflect the elements of earth, water, air and fire. All the massages we experienced here were expertly executed, enhanced by the building’s special architecture.

The restaurant on the premises, McFarland House, was already a topic in other sections of my post. It is a two-story pavilion on the beach front, dating back to the 19th century.

It was home of Dr George Mc Farland, a man of many merits for Thailand. Parts of his original house were incorporated in the new building. It is a casual all-day dining venue. On the menu you find modern comfort food plus some healthy options. My husband and I only had breakfast here, which was enjoyable. We especially liked the Energy Bowl, the freshly pressed juices and the inventive egg dishes.

It goes without saying that you can also make use of the facilities and restaurants at the other Hyatt hotels onsite. Yet, we did not see the need to do so as we had with The Barai the perfect sanctum of serenity at our disposal. That said, we ventured to town to have dinner. A future post will go into three fine dining spots we visited.

Looking back and forward on my blog

This was the last of five posts on my Bhutan travel reporting, which went into following topics: travel guide, 9-day itinerary, travel plans of luxury Bhutan hotel brands, COMO Bhutan journey and pre-/post-Bhutan stays.

As announced, there will be some more information about Thailand. As my husband and I are serious foodies, we made sure that we enjoyed ourselves in this respect in Siam too. Find more about our culinary Bangkok and Hua Hin adventures soon on my blog.

Date of visit: April 2023

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After giving an overview on the three luxury hotel brands with multiple locations in Bhutan, now to one of them. It is about Hotel COMO Bhutan, the choice of my husband and myself for our recent stay in the Land of the Thunder Dragon. It consists of two hotels, which are part of a family-owned group of hotels and resorts worldwide. In the following, you will learn how it is traveling the Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan on a journey arranged by COMO. In this post, the focus will be on the properties, the hotel life and the organization of the trip. As to the itinerary, I already went into this topic earlier on my blog (a perfect 9-day Bhutan itinerary).

Before delving into the COMO Bhutan properties plus another affiliated one, first to two other things. First, a look at my mini series about Bhutan. Second, a short introduction into the luxury hotel brand of COMO Hotels and Resorts.

My mini series about Bhutan travel

This very post is the fourth in my mini series about traveling Bhutan, the mystic land in the Himalayas. The first was a travel guide, followed by the above mentioned itinerary and the overview on luxury hotel brands operating in the field of multi-destination journeys. Next on my blog, opportunities for a pre- or post-Bhutan trip will set an end point to my Bhutan mini series.

Backstory of COMO Hotels & Resorts

COMO Hotels and Resorts is a Singapore-based company with a portfolio of 16 properties worldwide to date. It was founded in 1991 by Christina Ong, born out of a simple need. She sought an intimate hotel in London, which was stylish yet also intuitive and discreet. At the same time, it should have a sense of place, but also with a distinct and personal character. Furthermore, she wanted this hotel to have a restaurant with healthy and high-quality food. So, she brought COMO The Halkin on a quiet street in Belgravia to life.

This was also the first property of this luxury hotel group where my husband and I stayed at. And this already on two occasions (my post). We also spent some time at their hotel in Miami Beach.

Furthermore, we already had booked a stay at COMO The Treasury in Perth/Australia before we had to cancel it because of the COVID-19 pandemic. And we also know COMO Metropolitan Bangkok, where we resided prior to our Bhutan visit (more follows soon on my blog).

While all the 16 COMO Hotels and Resorts share the same values, they honor their respective location. Their portfolio consists of island resorts, hotels in urban heritage buildings and two boutique brands, COMO Metropolitan and COMO Uma. As to the Metropolitan properties, I already mentioned the one in Bangkok. There is one city hotel more, and this in London. With regard to the Uma brand, it is about small resorts with adventurous locations. Bhutan has two of them, in Bali there are two more.

COMO Hotels and Resorts Bhutan

In contrast to its competitors of Aman and Six Senses (see my comparison), COMO limits itself on two properties only. One is in the Paro Valley near the country’s only international airport, the other in Punakha Valley.

When my husband and I booked our Bhutan journey about four years ago (initially for April 2020, finally postponed to April 2023), Hotel COMO Bhutan partnered up with a hotel in a third valley, the Gangtey respectively the Phobjikha Valley, at the time. Nowadays, this option is no longer listed on their homepage. Instead, they offer as third accommodation a stay at a fully serviced overnight camp.

Now to what to expect when staying at following three hotels: COMO Uma Paro, COMO Uma Punakha and Gangtey Lodge. For our Bhutan travel plan, check out my perfect 9-day-itinerary in a separate post. Regarding tour organization (journey with a private guide), there will be more information under point “4. COMO Bhutan private tour organization”.

1. COMO Uma Paro

Location

This is the COMO property first opened in Bhutan, and this back in 2004. It nestles on a hillside, among a pine tree forest, with a fabulous view of Paro Valley. You can reach it in only ten minutes from the airport, the last bit is on a rough road through the forest.

Rooms/Pricing at COMO Paro

29 rooms are available, including nine villas. As to the rooms, you can make your choice out of three categories: Forest View Room (25 sqm, from 530 US$), Valley View Room (32 sqm, from 675 US$) and COMO Suite (95 sqm, from 915 US$). In terms of villas, you may opt either for the One-Bedroom Villa (92 sqm, from 1,100 US$) or the COMO Villa (300 sqm, from 1,850 US$). Dinner is included in the prices mentioned.

My husband and I spent four nights here, two to start our COMO “journey”, two to end it. The first time, we stayed at Valley View Room, the second time – we were granted an upgrade because we had been holding our reservation for three years, paid in advance – at a One-Bedroom Villa. Here are the details.

Valley View Room

While this room is not exactly spacious, it is practically furnished, and this in a traditional Buthanese style. There is a small balcony from which you have a great view of the Paro Valley.

Artisan-crafted woodwork and hand-painted walls add to the rustic character of the guest quarter.

The bathroom is not large yet features a tub and a separate shower.

All in all, you find here everything you need as a demanding guest, but you definitely cannot call it super luxurious. And it is a bit on the cramped side.

One-Bedroom Villa

Too little space is for sure no problem at the generous One-Bedroom Villa. Ours even had a second bedroom (king bed) with its own bathroom.

All the villas are situated in the pine forest, at a good distance from each other. That comes along with no view of Paro Town or the Valley. However, you enjoy here lots of privacy.

Apart from the sizable bedroom

there is a living room appointed with a dining table and a Buthanese Bukhari (fireplace).

Adjacent to it, is a small kitchen with a second (butler) entry. The One-Bedroom Villa has yet another room, where treatments can take place (we did not have this one, but as mentioned a second bedroom).

The bathroom is huge, coming with double sinks, a free-standing tub, a closet, a separate shower and toilet plus a comfortable seating area.

And there is a large outdoor area, the so-called verandah. As to the decor, it it similar to the above mentioned Valley View Room. An additional feature are the hand-knotted rugs from Nepal. Residing at a One-Bedroom Villa also has the benefit of a personal butler service.

Ambiance/Staff at COMO Paro

On our first stay, there was lot going on at the hotel because we happened to be here during the Paro Festival. Staff was friendly yet sometimes a bit stressed. Instead of an à la carte service at the restaurant there was a buffet to help yourself from it.

When we returned on the end of our Bhutan trip, there was “courant normal”. It was a less hectic atmosphere yet there was not really a contemplative mood. Probably, the hotel is not small enough to provide a calmer state as it is the case at the sister hotel in Punakha. While service was hospitable and polite, it was sometimes a bit on the impersonal side, especially at the reception desk.

The General Manager (for both COMO hotels) showed presence on both our stays. He is clearly dedicated to his job yet has a bit of a didactic nature and seems always to be very busy.

The last evening we spent here, was not overly pleasant. When we arrived for dinner, only one of the Bukharis (Buthanese fireplaces) in the public spaces was lit. So, it was quite cold not only at the restaurant, but also at the bar and in the lobby area. As a consequence, we had to settle near the reception – by the only lighted fireplace – to have an after dinner drink.

Facilities/Restaurants

COMO Uma Paro is the hotel group’s flagship lodge in Bhutan. The main building used to be the home of a Buthanese nobleman, and it really is quite a sight. Onsite you find two courtyards, an upper and lower one, an indoor pool,

a Shambala Retreat (spa), a fitness room,

a yoga studio, meadows, woodlands, a plant garden and an archery ground.

As to dining, there is the Bukhari Restaurant inside a round building, which also seems to be a favorite of the king.

They serve Western, Indian and Buthanese dishes here, made from organic and locally sourced produce. And we usually liked what we got, opting almost always for Asian food.

Maybe it was sometimes not spicy enough. But we often felt at hotel restaurants in Bhutan that they play it safe when it comes to this. You have to know in this context that Buthanese people like their food very spicy. So, I think they “tone it down” sometimes a bit too much, at least for our taste. And one more thing, the hot dishes on the buffet service (only during Paro Festival) were consistently not hot enough!

In case you care for small bites, you can also have them at the Uma Bar. Here you get all-day dining, and you can also book the premises for private gatherings.

2. COMO Uma Punakha

Location

This is the second and last COMO property in Bhutan to date. It was opened in 2012, yet apparently it was originally meant to do so in 2004, together with its sister hotel in 2004. From what I heard, the worldwide financial crisis of 2008 impeded this.

The hotel is set in a terraced hillside at the western end of the Punakha Valley, a lush, subtropical vale. From here, you overlook a bend in the Mo Chhu (Female) river. COMO Punakha is pretty remote, which is a major part of its charm. You reach it from Paro in a four- to five-hour drive.

Rooms/Pricing at COMO Punakha

It is an intimate place, with elven rooms only. There are eight rooms and two villas.

There is only one accommodation category, the Valley View Room (27 to 34 sqm, from 675 US$). As to the villas, there is a smaller (51 sqm, price to be inquired) and a larger (90 sqm, price to be inquired). The rates include the dinner.

My husband and I spent two nights here. It was the second stop of our COMO “journey”. And we had a Valley View Room.

Valley View Room

While there is only one room category, the accommodations slightly differ depending whether they are on the ground floor or one below. The former have large French windows – which can only partly opened – , the latter a balcony. The rooms on the ground floor benefit of a wider view, also to be enjoyed from the shower.

Some of their counterparts one floor down may do so from the tub.

I liked the room better than the one at Paro (of the same category). This because it feels airier and has a lounge area from which you can take in the fabulous views of terraced fields and river. As to its furnishings, it is similar to the one at its sister property, although of more recent date. The room shares the same somewhat minimalist style yet it feels cozy after all.

Ambiance/Staff

I preferred the ambiance at COMO Punakha over the one at Punakha. It was much more serene and calm than the rather busy one at the sister hotel. Right when stepping through the entrance gate, you could feel it. It seems like the quiet of the surrounding nature casts a spell upon everyone, the guests yet also the staff.

As to the latter, service was immaculate throughout our stay. Often when returning from an excursion, one staff member magically shows up bringing along your room key right to the entrance! Yet everywhere on the premises it made the impression that they could read every wish from your eyes. The praise includes the resident manager, a lovely Thai lady, who regularly enquired how we were doing.

Facilities/Restaurants at COMO Punakha

The hotel is not as well equipped as its sister property in Paro. For example, it does not feature a pool. This not only in contrast to COMO Paro, but also to the other luxury players on site. Although, you find here a COMO Shambala Retreat (spa). Here it is highly recommended to have a Buthanese traditional hot stone bath.

The restaurant goes under the same name as the one in Paro, Restaurant Bukhari. Apart from a dining room there is also a nice outdoor area. The same is true for the adjoining bar/lobby.

As to the culinary aspect, the offerings are similar to those at its sister hotel in Paro, yet I found the cuisine here a tad better.

I especially was more in favor of the breakfast you get in Punakha. There is no buffet, everything is served. The daily baked pastries, the lassis of the day or the hot item options just as the ricotta French toast were just great!

3. Gangtey Lodge Gangtey/Phobjikha Valley

The Gangtey Lodge in the Gangtey respectively Phobjikha Valley is not part of COMO Hotels and Resorts. Yet when we booked our Hotel COMO Bhutan “journey” (see concept/itinerary), there was some sort of collaboration.

It actually is one of the few independent boutique lodges in Bhutan, established in 2013 by owners Khin Omar Win and Brett Melzer.

Location

When approaching, it does not become clear at first sight that a hotel awaits you here. This because the Gangtey Lodge is designed in harmony with the local village and the 17th-century monastery, which are both just a short walk away. The building looks like a traditional farmhouse, albeit a grand one.

You are here at the beautiful Gangtey or Phobjikha Valley, as it is known formally. It is about a wide glacial vale full of meadows and farmland, bounded by the Black Mountains. The remote area can be reached from Punakha in a three- to four-hour drive or directly from Paro in four- to five-hour drive.

Rooms/Pricing at Gangtey Lodge

There is only one room category, the Farmhouse Suite (46 sqm). And you find only 12 of them here.  Just as at COMO Punakha, you are in here for an intimate ambiance. In terms of rates, they start at 660 US$ (half board) respectively 720 US$ (full board).

Farmhouse Suite

This was definitely the most beautiful (and largest) room of our Bhutan trip, featuring a large lounging area, fireplace and freestanding tub. It is kept in a Buthanese style, coming with dark nature tones and cozy fabrics.

And the views are commanding, from the valley over to the village and the monastery. Plus, the room has underfloor heating, and the bathroom is spacious.

Our room was on the lower of two floors in the house north of the main building. For best vista, I would recommend an accommodation on the upper floor at the other guest quarters, nearer to the Gangtey village and monastery.

While I was very much in favor of our room’s look, I was not overly satisfied with some practical aspects. Among other things, you could not open the windows properly as the tub in front of it hinders doing so.

Ambiance/Staff

It is an extremely hospitable hotel. Upon arrival, the general manager, Anja Zok, a nice Polish lady, welcomed us at the entrance. She gave us a present, a traditional ceremonial scarf, and accompanied us to the main lodge. Here staff greeted us with a song, a welcome drink and a shoulder massage. I could not imagine a much better start!

Also what followed, was persuasive. Staff tried their best to make us welcome on every occasion. When coming back from a hike, they offered to clean our hiking boots. Or they asked after dinner whether they should light a fire at our room’s fireplace. And Chef Soh, the long time cook here, went to great lengths to stand by my side because of digestion problems I had at the time. Kudos to the team!

Facilities/Restaurants at Gangtey Lodge

There is a double-height lobby/lounge/dining room with big picture windows

allowing a stunning view of valley,

village and monastery.

Here you also find two big inside/outside stone fireplaces, which makes the terrace usable year-round.

This central meeting point is open from early in the morning until late in the evening. You may show up here whenever you feel like it, for just sitting here by the fire or for meals.

There is a bath house where you can try out a hot stone bath, an ancient Buthanese bathing ritual. Or you can choose from a number of massages. You also find an archery ground on the premises. In addition, there is an array of options to immerse more in the environment, be it in the areas of nature, spiritual, dining and culture.

As to dining, I already informed you about the location and the chef, now it is about the food. You eat here well. For dinner you can either order the “Southeast Asian Set” or choose from an à la carte menu with western and Asian dishes. As to breakfast, you can help yourself from a small assortment of continental breakfast items on a table. Plus, there is a limited à la carte menu to choose from (no sweet options).

4. COMO Bhutan private tour organization

After outlining already several times in my Bhutan reporting about traveling this country via a private guided tour by one of three luxury hotel brands (my post), now to some details how it is doing so with COMO Hotels and Resorts. For the itinerary we chose, check out my corresponding post.

The Hotel COMO Bhutan tours usually include accommodation (full board), a private guide and driver for transport and excursions, all fees and one massage. In addition, this provider can also handle the necessary Bhutan visa and flights via Druk Air or Bhutan Airlines on their customers’ behalf. So, it is actually an “all inclusive” arrangement.

If you should not find your desired itinerary on the COMO Bhutan website, you can also get in touch with them to plan a tailor-made journey.

Our COMO Buthan private guided tour

On our 9-night-itinerary, Kuenzang (guide) and Damchoe (driver) were assigned to us.

While the former is permanently employed by Hotel COMO Bhutan, the latter is a free-lancer. We were told that there are no fixed guide-driver teams at this provider. Instead, they constantly make new pairings. As to the one we got, we could not have been more happy!

While our travel plan was set, there was still room for changes to be made. My husband and I, for example, asked for walking the area whenever possible or not to start too early in the morning, if not necessary. And Kuenzang happily complied with our wishes.

As to his way of touring, he is an easygoing, humorous person yet also showed seriousness when indicated. Of course, he has a wide knowledge as to Bhutan, but he shared it with us on a bit-by-bit basis without overwhelming us. He always was super friendly, helpful and considerate. We would not have wanted anybody else to show us around in Bhutan! And his grasp of English is excellent.

As to our driver, Damchoe, he is nice person too. Whereas he rather stayed in the background, he chatted with us occasionally (never while driving), and was always gracious. And the most important thing of all, he turned out to be an excellent driver!

Postscript to our guide Kuenzang: guiding besides COMO Bhutan

Kuenzang Tobgay offers his services as a tour guide also as a free-lancer. And he is able to put together tours for visitors looking for good hotels without wanting to spend a fortune too! If you should be interested in exploring Bhutan with him – highly recommended – , contact him on Instagram or Facebook.

Looking back and forward on my blog

My Bhutan mini series started with a travel guide, followed by a perfect 9-day itinerary and an overview of travel plans offered by the three players in the country’s luxury hotel segment. And the current post focuses on how it is traveling the Land of the Thunder Dragon with COMO Hotels and Resorts. Next on my blog, I will go into possible pre- and post-Bhutan stays. This because it is usually not possible to directly fly into Druk Yul from more distant destinations.

Date of visit: April 2023

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The post Traveling Bhutan with a private guided tour by COMO luxury hotels first appeared on Swiss Traveler

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If you think about traveling Bhutan in style, you might have come across the one or other luxury hotel brand that offers private guided tours in this country. The most known name in this context is probably Aman Bhutan, yet also Six Senses Bhutan might have caught your attention. There is one more, COMO Bhutan, which my husband and I chose for exploring this fascinating Himalayan kingdom. Originally, our trip should have taken place in spring 2020 yet we had to postpone it until spring 2023 – because of the COVID-19 pandemic. Find in the following an overview how the three big players in Bhutan’s luxury travel segment compare to each other, also price wise.

Before delving into the topic, a quick look at the blogposts that I have already done about Bhutan and what still follows in this respect.

My mini-series about Bhutan travel

A travel guide made the start, followed by the perfect 9-day-itinerary in Buthan’s west, the country’s heartland. This very post shall be about what the three luxury hotel brand of Aman, Six Senses and COMO Pura have in store for discerning travelers who plan to travel The Land of the Thunder dragon. Then I will of course inform about how our journey with our choice of hotel (COMO) was. And finally in a post to come, there will be information about possible pre- and post-Bhutan stays as it is usually not possible to fly in directly from a more distant country.

Bhutan travel in general

Already before the Covid-19 pandemic, Bhutan had a reputation of being an expensive travel destination. Its motto always was “high value, low impact”, and this meant great benefits for travelers but also high revenues from tourism without causing too much damage by it.

While this certainly is a good stance in view of the overtourism in many popular places, it did not stop there. When the country reopened to tourism in September 2022 after the pandemic, a major overhaul of its already strict tourism regulation came into effect. For details, refer to my travel guide. In short, foreign travelers are now charged a 200 US$ fee per person per day for sustainable development (SDF)!

It goes without saying that this pricing makes a trip to Druk Yul unaffordable for most travelers. And this might be true for many well-heeled ones too. I am not sure whether my husband and I would have come to Bhutan if we had to pay 3,600 US$ for just spending nine days here. Fortunately, we had an “old booking” (pre-pandemic), so we did not fall under this new travel rule.

In this context, you also have to consider that before the pandemic more than 70% of the tourists were Indian residents. And this country is exempt from this tourist fee. So, you cannot help but asking yourself why the group that makes the most impact should not contribute their part too. But it is complicated, Bhutan depends on India in many areas.

After having established that a Buthan trip is going to cost you a lot, now to travel arrangements here (private guided tour) by a luxury hotel brand.

Bhutan travel plans set by luxury hotels (Aman, Six Senses & COMO)

As hinted, three international luxury hotel brands have ready made – and also bespoke – travel arrangements for Bhutan on offer. This is about Aman Bhutan, Six Senses Bhutan and COMO Bhutan.

Competitor comparison at the time of our booking

When my husband and I booked our Bhutan journey about four years ago (for spring 2020), we opted for COMO. This because we knew and liked the luxury hotel brand from stays at other locations (my posts: London, Miami Beach). And we were in favor of their itinerary as it offered lots of opportunities to explore the Land of the Thunder dragon by walking.

Of course we had also checked out its competitors, Aman and SixSenses. Yet, the latter was still completing their market entry (first lodges in 2018, opening Gangtey and Bumthang branches in 2019). And we were not overly inclined to play guinea pigs. Although, I have to admit, the individual properties looked – still do – absolutely stunning.

As to Aman, we were tempted to book with them, yet the price tag was higher (nine nights costed about 20,000 US$ for two persons, COMO was priced at 13,351 US$). In this context I have to mention that Aman scored better – still does – in several aspects. Yet, you have to weigh it up.

How the big three – Aman, Six Senses & COMO – compare to each other

As mentioned, my husband and I did not have to pay the new tourist fee (SDF: 400 US$ for two per day) on our recent Bhutan stay (because of our “old booking”). Once back home, I was wondering how much a trip would cost in 2023 in case of a “new booking”. Thus, I did the math for all the three players in the luxury segment, i.e. Aman, Six Senses and COMO.

Before it is about money, I want to have a closer look at the threesome’s appearance in Bhutan. It goes without saying that I only have a closer insight of COMO, although we had the one or other look at Aman or Six Senses properties from far away.For this reason, I will refer to two bloggers who stayed at Aman Bhutan respectively Six Senses Bhutan.

I start with Aman, continue with Six Senses and end with COMO. From this threesome, Aman has the most transparent offer plus you can book their “journeys” (private guided tours) online. As to Six Senses, you can see room prices (full board, without SDF) online, yet not book them. When it comes to “journeys”, there are detailed descriptions, yet the pricing has to be enquired. COMO is yet another case. Room bookings are possible online, but only with half board (without SDF) . As to “journeys”, you can find a range of example ones online (with starter prices).

Aman Bhutan essentials

Aman Bhutan goes under the name of Amankora, which can be translated with “peaceful pilgrimage”. Together with COMO, it was a pioneer in terms of luxury travel in Bhutan. In 2004, these both high-end hotel brands opened their first properties in the Land of the Thunder Dragon, and this in Paro.

Through the years, Amankora grew to five hotels. Properties in Thimphu, Punakha, Gangtey (Phobjikha) and Bumthang were added to the portfolio. All in all, 72 rooms are now available, from what you can conclude that the individual hotels are small.

Just as Amankora’s competitors, they offer a multi-destinations itinerary through the Kingdom of Bhutan. For stays of seven nights and more, a tailor-made travel plan is included in the room rate. It covers everything from accommodation, full board, private transport with a driver and guide, entrance fees to attractions, laundry plus one 60-minute spa treatment. Even house wines and spirits are included at Aman. And this makes a bit of a difference as wine is extremely expensive in Bhutan.

I will not go more into details, only two more remarks. All five lodges seem to share the same basic room layout and design. And only one property features a pool (Punakha). The least expensive room is already on the spacious side (from 52 sqm). And from what I read, they have a communal dining approach at Amankora. For more information, check out the post from a fellow blogger about his (pre-pandemic) stay at Aman Bhutan.

Six Senses Bhutan essentials

Six Senses was not exactly a pioneer in terms of Bhutan travel, as you know by now. They only started in 2018 and actually copied what Aman did before. They chose the same locations and kept their lodges at a similar size (five properties with 82 rooms).

Exactly as Aman and COMO, multi-destinations itineraries for exploring the Land of the Thunder Dragon as its fullest are available. And they include everything that was mentioned above under Aman. This except alcoholic beverages, yet the non-alcoholic ones are part of it (as to the massage and the laundry, I did not find any indications).

In terms of rooms, Six Senses Bhutan seems to feature the most luxurious ones of the threesome, at least from pictures. And of course they are also the newest (lodges opened in 2018/19). Plus, the least expensive room is also rather sizable (60 – 73 sqm). As to pools, two hotels have them. As far as dining is concerned, it does not look like they are into communal dining. If you care for more details, here are (pre-pandemic) posts from a fellow blogger about three properties (Paro, Thimphu, Punakha).

COMO essentials

In contrast to the competition, COMO only has two hotels, one in Paro (opened in 2004), the other in Punakha (opened in 2012). While the former has quite a number rooms (29 units) – it is actually the largest of all the threesome’s properties – , the latter is small (11 rooms). There is a general manager for both hotels, residing in Paro.

If you care for more destinations than two – highly recommended – , it seems that they partner up with other providers. In our tour – booked pre-pandemic – , they offered lodging for the Phobjikha (Gangtey) Valley, and this at the Gangtey Lodge. Currently, I could not find “our” itinerary online. Instead they have travel plans on offer where you stay at a fully serviced overnight camp in addition to their two locations.

COMO’s multi-destinations Bhutan itineraries include everything what Aman does with the exception of the laundry and the beverages. For both, you have to pay extra. As to the rooms, they are well-appointed, but of average size (the second least accommodation – Valley View – measures 32 sqm) and not recently updated. If you care for a pool, the Paro property has an indoor one. And dining takes place at a “normal” restaurant (no communal dining).

For more details about both COMO properties plus Gangtey Lodge, my next blogpost will go into this topic.

Price comparison for multi-destination Bhutan itineraries in 2023 at Aman, Six Senses & COMO 

It is no easy thing to do a price comparison for the three big players regarding their offers for multi-day travel plans in Bhutan. If you decide to base it on online research only, you cannot help including some estimates. In case you do want more specific indications, you have to start an enquiry with the hotel in question. This is especially true for Six Senses, but partly also for COMO. As to Aman, I must sing my praises for their rates transparency!

Find in the following what I found out price wise about a tour in the low season (high season is from March to May and from September to November). Be advised, that it is about approximate starting prices, all in. That means accommodation, full board, beverages (alcoholic with Aman, non-alcoholic with Six Senses), driver and guide, entrance fees, laundry (Aman), one massage (Aman, COMO) are covered. I also added the SDF and the visa fee as well as service charge and sales tax, where necessary. But of course I cannot take any guarantee for the correctness of the information.

For a seven-night tour for two – subject to all the mentioned conditions – , expect to pay from 17,894 US$ with Aman, 14,055 US$ with Six Senses and 12,372 with COMO. Please take note, this is for the Bhutan “journey” only, without any flights. And the greatest uncertainty with the accuracy is in the case of Six Senses, as elaborated above.

Overall (price) comparison touring Bhutan with Aman, Six Senses and COMO

If you want to travel the Kingdom of Bhutan in style, you have to be ready to dig deep into your pockets. Should you ask the question whether it is worth the expense, there is no easy answer. The Land of the Thunder Dragon is for sure an exclusive, remote destination. You have to look far to find another desirable country that is lesser traveled than Druk Yul. And it definitely is a place of longing where you can make experiences that are second to none. And that is for once not an empty phrase!

Yet on the negative side, a Bhutan trip comes with a hefty price tag! And the new Sustainable Development Fee (SDF) of 400 US$ for two per day does not help. Especially if you take into account that this Himalayan kingdom was already an expensive destination without it!

Looking back and forward as to my Bhutan posts

As to my previous Bhutan content, I started with a travel guide, continued with a perfect 9-day itinerary and now compared the three luxury hotel brands in Bhutan offering multi-destinations tours. Next on my blog, you will get insights how it is traveling the Land of the Thunder Dragon with COMO, one of the three big names in the country’s luxury travel sector. And the mini series will find an end with a fifth blogpost going into possible pre- and post-Bhutan stays, as there are usually no direct flights possible from further away.

Date of stay: April 2023

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After identifying must-do Bali places in my first post of my mini-series about this island, I now focus on which hotels to go for a luxury stay in this very spots. While the selection of lodging for staying in style on the Island of the Gods is generally good, there are areas where such accommodations are scarce. After four visits to this island in eight years, I had my share of staying at some of the best Bali luxury hotels. Although I was quite fond of most of them, there are certain things to consider, which I would like to share with you.

Before plunging in medias res, first an overview of my Bali mini-series.

What is my Bali mini-series about?

My current mini-series about Bali comprises four blogposts. The first one was about findings gained after four stays in eight years. And this was especially in the context of luxury travel. I looked into Bali as a travel destination, the best time to visit this island, how to proceed when wishing to do walks here. And I put together an itinerary where to go on the Island of the Gods for sights yet also for staying in style at the same time.

The focus of my second Bali post was about easy walks to do on this island. And I based them on the Bali itinerary I have just mentioned. Just to make clear, it is not about hardcore hikes but about leisurely walks, very often in the island’s many rice fields.

The actual post about which hotels to choose for a luxury stay follows the same itinerary that I wrote about.

And as a (massive) foodie, I tried out the best what Bali has to offer in the field of high-end gastronomy. In particular Ubud does not have to hide in this respect. My fourth and last blogpost will be about five great (casual) fine dining restaurants in the island’s cultural center.

Before coming to luxury hotels by location, there is one more thing I want to write about in this context, and this is prices.

Prices for luxury hotels in Bali

Since going to Bali in 2014 for the first time, there has been a price difference between internationally and and locally owned luxury hotels. Without surprise, the former demand higher rates than the latter. And this for similarly equipped accommodations. While we relied on Indonesian hotels on our first trip in 2014, we did a mix in 2016. The same was true in 2019 and 2022.

To my experience, the service at Indonesian owned properties is almost always convincing. However, this is not necessarily the case as to other aspects. I think in this context of food quality or cleanliness standards. But otherwise, they are usually on par with the ones of international hotel groups. And of course you are not safe from negative surprises when staying at western branded lodging too.

What changed in recent years is that rates at Indonesian and international luxury hotels are drifting apart more and more. If you want a pool villa in Ubud at the latter, you have to fork out nowadays around 1,400 to 1,600 SFR/US$ per night. And that was the price on our recent stay in November, in the shoulder season, with lots of vacancies. At that time, my husband and I had to look for a new place to stay. This was owed to circumstances, but this is another story.

The key message here is that international hotel groups stick to their (over-high) pricing at their Ubud properties. And this, no matter what happens. And their price level has increased considerably over the years. In 2016, we had a large suite at the Mandapa, A Ritz-Carlton Reserve Ubud, for 533 SFR/US$ in the high season. In November 2022, the same would have costed us 1,282 SFR/US$!

Bali upscale hotels by location

While luxury lodging in Bali’s south is plentiful – the tourist hotspot here, geared to sun, sea and sand – , this is not necessarily so in other areas. There is one more place where you find plenty of hotels to stay in style, and this is in Ubud in central Bali. Apart from those two areas, the offer of accommodations suitable for the discerning traveler is not broad.

When having a look at the “underdeveloped” parts of the Islands of the Gods in terms of high-end lodging, the situation presents itself as follows. There is no high-end lodging to speak of in Bali’s west. When it comes to the island’s north, the offer is scarce, and the same is true for the east.

Now to the individual hotels, following the Bali itinerary I mentioned. For information regarding the area where these properties are located, have a look at my first post.

Bali’s south: best luxury hotels

My husband and I can look back on three stays in Bali’s most popular – and crowded – region. And we always went here for a few quiet days on the coast after exploring other parts of the island.

Seminyak

This sleek beach town was our choice when first visiting Bali in 2014. We had opted for The Samaya Seminyak, which boasts a terrific beachfront location.

This hotel, owned by an Indonesian hotel group, offers pool villas only (52 units),

from which the Royal Pavilions are the signatures ones.

If I had to rate this accommodation in terms of luxuriousness, I would give it 7 out of 10.

For more info, have a look at my (short) post about it. As we have not returned, I cannot make any final judgement. From what I read on the internet, reviews are still favorable: Google 4.7 out of 5 and Booking.com 9 out of 10.

Nusa Dua

We went to this enclave of luxury resorts on our 2019 stay. Instead of opting for staying at one of the big names of western hospitality, we chose a Balinese owned property, The Royal Santrian.

You find here pool villas (20 units) only, and the category to go for is the Royal Villa with ocean views.

Rooms are luxuriously appointed in a contemporary style with Balinese touches.

The location on a quieter part along the boardwalk is great. I liked the relaxed ambiance at this boutique accommodation. This together with the good hospitality made it a pleasant stay here in this quite artificial world of Nusa Dua. As to its luxury feel, I give the hotel 7 out of 10. My research on the internet resulted in the realization that it still seems to be a good place for a few days on the beach (Google 4.7 out of 5 and Booking.com 9.3. out of 10).

Sanur

In contrast to Nusa Dua, you are here in a real coastal town. And it is yet Bali’s oldest beach destination. The reason my husband and I stranded in Sanur in 2016, was the recently opened Maya Sanur Resort & Spa (2015), a property owned by a Balinese family.

The Maya is rather large (103 rooms). In terms of accommodations, we had booked one of the eight Ocean View Pool Suites.

The room was great offering lots of space and a small pool with splendid sea views.

I liked the hotel’s construction, which is modern yet with lots of Balinese elements. As to location, it is perfect in the town’s center just by the beach.

On the negative side, I was not so in favor of the vibe in the pool area and at its breakfast restaurant (Mayasari). When lounging by the pool or having breakfast, I felt like staying at a midscale rather than an upscale lodging. And breakfast was mediocre at best (self service only). Staff generally was friendly, but not more.

As to the hotel’s luxuriousness, I attribute 6 out of 10 points to it. Residing in a good room is not enough. All the rest has to be right too to get a feel of real luxury. I am not sure if I would recommend the Maya to a demanding clientele. The reviews are mixed: Google 4.7 out of 5 and Booking.com 8.8 out of 10 (for me the minimum has to be 9 out 10). Maybe check out the new Hotel Andaz Bali (opened 2021) for your Sanur stay.

Central Bali: best luxury hotels

When speaking about staying in central Bali, it is primarily about hotels in Ubud, the island’s cultural and spiritual hub. And here you encounter a great number of luxury hotels. There are not numerous options to stay in style in and near Ubud’s town center – you find here some nice yet very boutique lodging in the rice fields. Most accommodations that suit the demanding traveler, are a bit away from the town’s core. Some that call themselves Ubud based properties are quite a distance from here.

My advice is to opt for a hotel that is relatively close to the town center. And this for three reasons. First, while 9 or 10 kilometers (5.6 mi or 6.2 mi) does not sound like being far away, this is not true for Ubud. Traffic here can be hell, and you might end up getting stuck in roadways quite a long time. Second, in case you plan to have dinner in Ubud’s core – you should as a foodie, my next post goes into this – , it is much more convenient. Third, staying close by allows you to walk into town (see my recent post).

Ubud

On our three Ubud stays, we lodged at two different hotels. Actually, it should have been three. My husband and I had booked a boutique hotel in the rice fields (no access by car) when being last here.

Unfortunately, this did not work out for us, so had we to find another solution on short term. We ended up in returning to the one we stayed in 2014. They offered a big discount (it was in shoulder season), in opposite to all the others we checked out in our desperate efforts to find a new place to stay.

The Samaya Ubud

The Samaya Ubud, managed by an Indonesian hotel group, was our choice of accommodation on our first visit to Ubud in 2014, and our “stopgap” in November 2022. While I was pretty fond of it on our first stay (see my short review), it is still a good choice. However, it is in need of some maintenance. My husband and I had the impression that the hotel has not yet fully woken up from its “Corona slumber”. Some villas are freshly painted, others not. Some furnishings were up to date, others needed replacing.

Yet, the property still enjoys this spectacular hillside location at the foot of the Ayung river. The deep valley views over rice terraces are really hard to beat.

And the 19 pool villas offer the comfort you would expect from an upscale hotel.

Also the service orientation here is strong. Yet, some efforts are bound to happen to become a top notch property again (maintenance as mentioned, more thorough cleaning and better breakfast pastries).

As to reviews, it still gets good ones: Google 4.7 out of 5 and Booking.com 9.3 out of 10. I give it in terms of luxury 7 out of 10 for our 2014 stay and 6 out 10 for our recent one.

Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve

Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve, is possibly one of the best and most luxurious hotels in Ubud, the 2015 opened third property of the prestigious Ritz-Carlton Reserve brand. To this day, there are five worldwide. What is special about them? They are based on four mantras: Striking, Intimate, Magical and Enlightening. And that is also what you can say about the experience of staying here, what we did in 2016 (see my post about it).

The hotel enjoys – as The Samaya Ubud – a dramatic hillside location on the Ayung river. The buildings cascade down the hill, topped by kind of a mighty fortress. From this “crown” you have an unobstructed view of the whole compound (60 villas and suites). I was so impressed by this amazing piece of architecture! And all the rest is formidable too (ambiance, service, food).

The negative point here is the pricing, which seems a bit over the top. Since our 2016 stay, the rate for the Mandapa Suite (the biggest suite onsite) has doubled from 533 SFR/US$ (20% off from regular rate) in high season to 1,282 SFR/US$ in shoulder season.

Having said that, other Ubud properties of international hotel groups are in the same high price segment (Four Seasons, Amandari).

The reviews for Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve, are fabulous: Google 4.7 out of 5 and Booking.com 9.7 out of 10. I attribute 9 out of 10 points for its perceived luxury feel.

Bali’s north: best luxury hotels

As hinted, luxury hotels in Bali’s lesser visited north are not plentiful. The best places to go here for staying in style are in Lovina or in Munduk. Whereas I visited the former back in 2014, I have never been to the latter.

Lovina

My husband and I chose The Damai for our stay in the quiet coastal town of Lovina in 2014. The hotel is located in the hills above this seaside resort and was built by a Danish advertising executive. It boasts 15 villas, which are different in size and amenities, some have pools. My husband and I liked our Pool Villa and the breakfast here, other aspects were not that convincing (see my post).

I am not sure about the current status of The Damai. I read on TripAdvisor that this hotel has not opened since the pandemic. Some travelers also complained that the reimbursement of payments already payed had turned out to be difficult. I cannot judge whether this is true or not. I noticed on their website under “booking” that this hotel is under renovation until early 2023.

As to reviews, it is not (any more) on Booking.com, it is rated 4.5 out of 5 on Google. As to its luxury feel, I give it 6 out of 10.

Munduk

In Munduk, inland from Lovina, you find an accommodation that might suit the discerning traveler, Munduk Molding Plantation Nature Resort & Spa. You find here not only lodging (11 rooms, some have pools) but also a coffee plantation. Maybe this hotel is worth checking out for your North Bali stay.

Reviews are good: Google 4.8 out of 5 and Booking.com 9.5 out of 10.

Bali’s east: best luxury hotel(s)

This is also a part of the island that is not distinctively touristy. And there is only one hotel here that caters for the discerning traveler, the Amankila in Manggis. But this accommodation of the famed Aman brand is a real find! We stayed here twice, in 2019 and 2022. And we immensely enjoyed it on both occasions!

While it is not a new property, it aged well. And they do a lot as to maintenance here. You find here 31 rooms, from which 12 have their private pools. Yet I do not think that the latter is a must as there are two formidable pools are onsite. Especially the main pool is a true feast for the eyes.

Rooms have all the same layout, which I consider as brillant (oversized and extremely practical).

While some have sea views, others have not. I personally would go for the former – what we did on our our recent visit. It is such a nice thing to linger on the generous outdoor area

and taking in this gorgeous vista!

For details have a look at my post about Amankila. I cannot think of many negative points here. Everything from ambiance, service to food options is great. As to the latter, they have just opened an additional restaurant, an Italian one. Also their complimentary afternoon tea offerings have been expanded. As a last remark, while Hotel Amankila is not an inexpensive choice, it is astoundingly affordable for an Aman property. Staying here does not cost the earth as it is usually the case with other Aman hotels. Reviews for this accommodation are good: Google 4.6 out of 5 and Booking.com 9.3 out of 10. In terms of luxurious feel, I attribute 9 points out of 10 to it.

Overall/What was before and what is next?

My first post in my mini-series about Bali was about how to get the most out of your trip as discerning traveler (general info and where to head for sights plus staying in style). And this very post went into the details, some of the best Bali  luxury hotels to go in the different parts of this island.

In between, there was another one describing some of the best (easy) walks to do on the island, divided by location.

There is one more blogpost in the pipeline, and it is for the foodies among you. It is a guide to the best (casual) fine dining in Ubud in central Bali.

Last date of stay: November 2022

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My three-week Japan trip together with my husband (before the pandemic) brought me not only to the typical route of the “Golden Triangle” (Tokyo-Kyoto-Osaka) with three extensions (Hakone, Takayama & Kanazawa), but also to rural Japan to two off the beaten path destinations. And this was a much needed change to the rather city focused rest of our route! If you plan to visit the Land of the Rising Sun once it is possible again, consider doing the same. It is well worth discovering a different side of Japan.

Before going into these two off the beaten path destinations, first a look back to my other posts about Japan.

My other Japan posts

This blogpost will be the last of my Japan adventure. Previously on my blog, I published five more. I started with our itinerary and things to do in the respective stops. This included a map – created with My Google Maps – complete with all the activities, hotels and restaurants of our trip. Next was a post about the (luxury) hotels of our Japan tour. I continued with an excursus how to find good restaurants for gourmets and how to get reservations at them. This was followed by a post about our choice of (Michelin) fine dining spots. And the fifth blogpost was about our stay at a luxurious ryokan.

Why Kiso Valley & Yakushima Island?

Of course, these destinations did not come out of my head. I have to admit that I came upon both while following other travel blogs. As my husband and I had three weeks available for criss-crossing Japan, I wanted to include some spots that are not so frequently traveled. And I was also looking for a rural contrast to the rest of the trip that went from one city to another.

In addition, both stops could be integrated in our itinerary without too many difficulties. Yakushima never seemed to be a problem insofar as it can be either reached from Honshu by train/ferry or from major cities by air.

As to Kiso Valley, it is on the the way from Hakone resp. Tokyo to the so-called Japanese Alps (Takayama & Kanazawa). While you can reach it by train, it is a bit inconvenient yet feasible.

Especially when I came across a ryokan owner that offered to pick us up from the station. However, this became moot with our decision to do the first part of our trip by rental car. If you should wonder about driving in Japan, it was no problem at all. My husband insisted on doing so, and I am grateful that he did!

Now to some information about the destinations, the things to do there and where to stay in style.

1. Kiso Valley, an off the beaten path destination in Japan

Why visit Kiso Valley?

If you have two nights to spare for a lesser-visit rural destination with historic relevance on your way from Tokyo to Kyoto/Osaka or to Takayama/Kanazawa, then Kiso Valley is it!

This rugged area covered with forests in southwestern Nagano is the place to step back in time. It is home of the beautifully preserved posts towns of Magome, Tsumago or Nerai. These three places, above all the two former ones, are the jewels of the Nakasendo. This is an old mountain route from Kyoto to Edo (nowadays Tokyo) used by merchants and samurais in the old times.

Magome and Tsumago (part of Nagiso), have put much effort into keeping their towns authentic as it was at the time. In addition, they are connected by a wonderful 7.7 km/4.8 mi stretch of the Nakasendo.

This is a great hike to do. And it is not too hard, especially if you start in Magome. It sits higher in the mountain range than Tsumago. It is a rewarding stretch to do as you pass hamlets, local shrines, brass bells (to keep away bears), a tea house (with free tea) and beautiful nature.

Before you set off, have a look around in lovely Magome to appreciate its unique architecture.

You will need about two to three hours to do the hike. For your return to Magome, you can take the bus from Tsumago. But count in enough time to explore this gem of a town before. Here you feel like being in an open-air museum village.

If you have some time left, Narai, in the northern part of Kiso Valley, is remarkably well preserved too. And it is much larger than the other post towns in the area. It features the longest stretch of historic wooden houses (1 km/0.6 mi).

Where to stay in comfort in Kiso Valley

Regular readers of my blog will maybe note that I wrote “comfort” instead of “style” in the title of this chapter as I usually do. And this is for a reason. When looking for an accommodation in the area, I did not find one that deserves the label “upscale”. But I came across a ryokan that sounded promising. And my husband and I were not disappointed by our stay, although I missed one or two things that I usually attach value on …

If you really want to stay at a supposedly truly luxurious hotel in Kiso Valley, I might have a tip. When doing some research after returning home, I came upon a newly opened property. But I do not want to promote it here as I consider it as way too expensive! A room for two costs 240,000 JPY (2,100 SFR/US$) per night. Although it is inclusive gourmet full board (without drinks) and one activity a day, I do not think that it could be worth the expense. In case you are interested in this option and have troubles finding it, get in touch …

But now to the ryokan we stayed at in Kiso Valley.

Takimi Onsen Inn Nagiso

Location/Owners

The small ryokan is idyllically located amidst a forest and overlooks a picturesque waterfall.

You can reach it from the Nagiso station in fifteen minutes by car. As mentioned, the ryokan owner, Koike, collects you from here, if you should need it. He speaks English, although I think he learnt it mainly by teaching himself. Anyway, he is a very nice person, aged more than 70 but looks much younger. He has been running this inn together with his wife for 32 years.

Facilities

A particularity of Takimi Onsen Inn is, that you can book it for one party only. And be it one person only or up to eight guests. Onsite you find eight rooms. There is the master bedroom,

which my husband and I had, plus three more, on which we have not set eyes. The inn features two onsen, each with an inner and outer basin, complete with shower and washing facilities.

And there are two (gender-separated) toilets onsite. If you are here as a couple, only one is available to use.

As to the onsen, it was so relaxing to soak in the hot water and to contemplate the thundering waterfall at the same time! While the facilities are well kept and very clean, they have not been updated recently. What bothered me most, was the fact that there are no en suite bathroom and toilet. You have to leave the room to use those. Having said that they are for your exclusive use. You do not have to go far to reach them yet it is still unusual. However, if you are not as fussy as I am, it will probably not be a problem for you. A nice touch was it also that the owners offered to do the laundry for us!

Food

The food here is amazing! On our first evening, Koike treated us to an inside fire pit dinner.

He prepared shabu shabu, food cooked in a hot pot, and grilled wagyu beef, vegetables and mushrooms. He served also salmon and horse sashimi, rice, miso soup, pickles

and a small fish from the grill. You have to eat the latter as a whole – if you dare -, and it was so delicious, as the rest of the meal!

Our second dinner was a highlight, too! This time it was sukiyaki, under the lead of Koike’s wife, Kazoku.

She is also a very friendly yet only speaks a few words of English. As to the meal, you also cook food (wagyu beef, tofu, vegetables and mushrooms) in a pot yet in contains rather a sauce than a broth. After being in the pot, you dip the ingredients in raw egg before eating. And it was delectable! Later on, the owner brought noodles, which you also cook in the pot. Along with the sukiyaki, tuna sashimi was on offer.

Pricing

Staying at Takimi Onsen Inn does not come inexpensive, especially if you lodge here as a couple. But it is absolutely worth the price. It cost us 58,800 JPY (540 SFR/US$) per room and night, including dinner (without drinks).

2. Yakushima Island, a hidden gem in Japan

Why visit Yakushima Island?

Location/Particularities

The term “magic” is ubiquitously used nowadays, but Yakushima Island is definitely one of the places that qualifies for it! Walking around in its forests full of fairytale-like trees covered with moss, from which are many more than thousand years old, is one hell of an experience! But let me come to the essentials.

The island, located 61 km (38 mi) south of Kyushu, has been a UNESCO world heritage since 1993. And it is known for its numerous natural wonders. Yakushima’s mountainous interior is covered with subtropical rainforest. This one is home to some of the most ancient trees in Japan, cedar trees known as Yakasugi. The island is not large, you can drive around its perimeter in about three and a half hours. Apropos getting around, it is absolutely necessary to rent a car to fully appreciate Yakushima’s offerings. And the public transportation system is not that well developed.

I have to mention one more thing. The island is Japan’s wettest place. And the annual precipitation is one of the world’s highest. Therefore, be prepared and bring your rain gear …

Activities

Yakushima offers great options to do some hiking in its extensive and hauntingly forests. Both Shiratani Unsuikyo Ravine (the most popular choice)

and Yakusugi Land (quieter) feature some superb hikes.

Then as said, driving around the island’s perimeter is an awarding thing to do. This is especially true for the Seibu-rindo Forest part with lots of monkeys

and deer around (drive extremely slowly and carefully).

Furthermore, activities in and around water are also an option. Opportunities include chasing waterfalls (possibly the best one is Ooko-no-taki),

soaking in the seaside Hirauchi onsen or making use of the good snorkeling and sea-kayaking spots. Please also refer to my Google Map where I listed things to do in a compact form.

As to luxury accommodation, possibilities to stay in style are scarce on Yakushima. Actually, there is only on hotel that deserves the label “luxurious”.

Where to stay in style on Yakushima Island?

The one and only luxurious accommodation on the island is Sankara Hotel, where we stayed. Despite the lack of competition in the upscale hotel segment here, this is absolutely a good choice!

Sankara Hotel & Spa Yakushima

Location/Rooms

The Sankara Hotel is remotely located on the island’s south. It is set amidst lush tropical forest, on the hillside and overlooks the sea.

When it comes to which room to choose, there are basically two options. On the one hand, you can opt for an accommodation in the main building where you can benefit from sea views (five rooms). This is the more costly way to enjoy your time on Yakushima.

Alternatively, you can go for one of the twelve stand-alone villas (with two rooms each) that are deep in the forest and with no sea views.

That is what my husband and I did. We chose a room on the upper floor which comes with a small additional charge. These Samudra Villas are very large (53 sqm), luxuriously appointed and feature a balcony.

Views are of the surrounding woods. This kind of room comes with a daybed, which is nice. Unfortunately, ours featured the not so great view of the neighboring villa.

We liked our accommodation, although it could use a little touch up. The propriety opened about ten years ago, and the extremely wet climate contributes to its aging quickly.

Facilities

There are two restaurants, which I will go into in the next chapter. Further, you find here a fitness center, a library lounge where they serve snacks and drinks in the afternoon. On this occasion, there is a self-service beer dispenser in use, which impressed my husband deeply.

Other amenities include a large outdoor pool (only open in the summer season), a car rental service (a must-have here), laundry services and washing machines for self-use. Furthermore, transfers from and to the ferry (Ambo Port) and to Yakushima airport are complementary.

Food

As mentioned above, you may choose between two restaurants. On the one side, there is the casual fine dining Ayana

that serves well-made Japanese French cuisine.

This is also the place where you dine when being on half board. And you get a fantastic breakfast here with exquisite freshly baked good from the onsite bakery.

One the other side, there is Okas, the signature Japanese French dining-spot. Here you get elaborate cuisine in a pleasant ambiance. My husband and I had an excellent nine-course tasting menu here. I am not completely sure but I think that this kind of meal (omakase) is the one and only way to have dinner here. And I am not certain about that point too, Okas does not have a listing at the Michelin guide because they do not review this part of Japan.

Highlights of our dinner were the grilled bonito with egg yolk confit and mushroom juice

as well as the grilled Kagoshima beef with seasonal vegetables.

I recommend opting for a counter seat at Okas to witness the action going on in the open kitchen. Here the chef performs his culinary magic behind an array of pots and a grill,

while his team in front of him prepares cold dishes and arrange plates.

Dining here comes with an extra charge of 6,170 JPY (57 SFR/US$) per person when being on half board. While this is considerable, it is worth its high price tag. Okas belongs to my list of top dining picks on our Japan trip.

Staff/Pricing

You get assigned a butler. Ours was Eri who did a good job. As to service orientation in general, staff was immaculate at the front desk and at the upscale restaurant (Okas). However, we had some issues at the Ayana Restaurant. On one evening, servers were very busy. When my husband complained of our seats being too drafty, our waitress was not really helpful.

Having said that, the overall experience here is good and I would stay here again. This despite the fact that rates are quite high (116,600 JPY per day and room including half board, about 1,034 SFR/US$).

Date of visit: November 2019

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No Japan trip is complete without staying at a ryokan, a traditional Japanese-style inn. When my husband and I traveled this country on a three-week trip (before the pandemic), we lodged at three different ryokans. And we were intrigued by this unfamiliar experience! Here I will go into our stay at the most upscale ryokan of our Japanese journey, ryokan Madoka no Mori in Hakone. Yet I will also include some aspects of the others to give you a full picture.

While your travel plans are probably still on hold, you need something to look forward to. Have you ever thought about visiting Japan? If so, you certainly want to know more about the ryokan experience. Before going into details of our stay at the high-end ryokan Madoka no Mori, some general info about this kind of Japanese-style inns.

Other posts of my mini-series on Japan cover these topics: three-week itinerary, luxury hotels, finding and reserving (Michelin) fine dining, gourmet restaurants and two hidden gems.

About the ryokan experience in Japan

These inns have been part of the Japanese culture for many centuries. Samurai, traders and others spent their nights there while traveling the route between the capital city of Edo (Tokyo) and the Imperial Palace in Kyoto.

Ryokans are often smaller than the typical hotels. In many cases they are family run and handed down from generation to generation. There are many different styles of ryokans. They range from standard ones with plain and simple guest rooms to luxurious ones offering Japanese hospitality at its finest.

In terms of furnishing, ryokans tend to be rather minimalistic. Chances are that your room will only provide a low table with some chairs without legs. It may be that you will not see any bedding. In this case, the staff lays it out for you while you are having dinner. And it will be a traditional futon bedding. The flooring is tatami matting where you wear neither your shoes nor the slippers provided by your personal attendant.

You leave your shoes by the entrance upon entering the ryokan. You also get a yakuta (robe), which you may wear everywhere you go inside the ryokan, for the meals too.

As to bathrooms, you will have your own private en suite ones if you stay at luxury ryokans. Many traditional ryokans however – even in the mid-range category and higher – , do not provide those. Instead you go to the onsen (natural hot springs). This is an important part of the Japanese culture and another typical element of a ryokan experience. Here you wash yourself before entering the onsen naked. Some are gender-separated, others are communal.

There is yet another attraction that makes staying at a ryokan so appealing. And this is the traditional multi-course dinner (kaiseki ryori) and the Japanese breakfast, both included in the room rate (half board).

About meals in ryokans

Both meals – dinner and breakfast – typically feature beautifully presented and colorfully arranged local and seasonal specialties. You have them either in your private room, in a semi-private dining room (one party) or in a common dining room. While every ryokan has its own ways of serving these meals, certain local produce are usually part of them. Think of vegetables (fresh, fermented and pickled), fish (often also from nearby rivers), meat and Japanese staples just as miso soup or rice.

As to breakfast, many ryokan serve a Japanese style breakfast only. Yet there are also inns that offer a Western style option or a mix of of both, Japanese and Western food. The typical Japanese breakfast reminds of the classical kaiseki meal (see next chapter) where you get several dishes on small plates and bowls.

About kaiseki ryori (dinner)

Kaiseki Ryori is a traditional Japanese multi-course high-end dinner. Originally, kaiseki was a simple vegetarian meal that you got on the traditional tea ceremony. Later on, it became more elaborate and today, you receive it in specialized restaurants or ryokans.

There is a series of small dishes, which are beautifully arranged.

It is not about volume but more about the art of balancing out taste, appearance, color and texture. It usually includes an appetizer, a soup, sashimi, and several other dishes. As to the latter, the preparation is different with each dish (boiled, grilled, deep fried, steamed, vinegared). And the whole is accompanied by rice, miso soup and pickles (served towards the end of the meal). It ends with a dessert, usually fresh fruit.

After all these preliminary remarks now to the luxury ryokan experience I want to report on.

Luxury ryokan Madoka no Mori in Hakone

This was the most luxurious and at the same time the most traditional ryokan we stayed at on our Japan trip. Furthermore, we lodged at a comfortable yet simple one in Kiso Valley. Here they cater to one party only. Then we were at a fairly luxury ryokan in Takayama. This one was traditional yet with certain Western elements, at least for foreign travelers. As announced, I will include some elements of the two latter in my reporting.

Location

Madoka no Mori is located high up in the mountainous area of Hakone. This town is known for its hot springs, natural beauty and the view of Mt. Fuji across Lake Ashinoko.

It is a popular place to go for Japanese and foreign travelers likewise looking for a break from Tokyo. You reach it from the capital in about three to four hours by train or by car.

Premises

As mentioned, it is not your standard ryokan but a luxury version of this type of Japanese accommodation. When my husband and arrived by car (before check-in time), we got a warm welcome. At the entrance we had to take off our shoes and were ushered to the lobby. Here we could choose a welcome drink. The floor, covered with tatami mats, was even heated!

Onsite there is of course a public onsen (for ryokan guests, gender-separated). We had a look at it but did not use it as we had a private one in our room. To give you an impression of a public onsen, here two pictures of the one we had at Takimi Onsen Inn in Nagiso (Kiso Valley). This is a small inn that was to the exclusive use of my husband and me on our stay. Please note, the following two pictures are not from Madoka no Mori!

Rooms/Pricing

Misaki, our personal attendant, brought us to our room, along corridors covered with tatami mats. Out of the twenty different rooms in the categories of suite, deluxe room and standard room we had opted for the Ebine room (deluxe category). It has a generous layout, a living room with an integrated washbasin complete with chair, a separate bedroom, a shower and our highlight, our own private onsen. It is on the spacious balcony, with views of greenery. The room features high-quality furnishing, a  lot of wood from the Hida region and of course tatami mats.

Here I would like to throw in two pictures of a more traditional ryokan guest room. And this after dinner time, when the bedding is set up for sleeping. They stem from our Japanese-Style Deluxe Room at Honjin Hiranoya Kachoan in Takayama, just to give you the full idea … Please note, the next two pictures are not from Madoka No Mori.

Our personal attendant explained to us all we had to know about the room and the ryokan. She also gave us a yakuta (robe to wear inside the ryokan) and pyjamas. And it was time to enjoy our first onsen, we had just arrived from the airport.

As you would expect, staying at Madoka no Mori is pricey but totally worth it. After all, it is not only a high-end accommodation but you are on half board, too. This includes an elaborate kaiseki ryori dinner and a likewise Japanese breakfast. We paid 116,000 JPY (a bit more than 1,000 SFR/US$ per night and room). This seems adequate in light of the cost of a kaiseki ryori dinner that will cost you from 15,000 JPY per person (130 SFR(US$) upwards.

After having a look around in the ryokan – what a beautiful and serene place –

my husband and I set off for dinner.

Kaiseki ryori (dinner)

As I had explained earlier in my post what this is about, I will limit myself primarily to pictures. We had in any case a memorable one-of-a-kind experience!

Misaki awaited us in the basement where the semi-private area is and led us to our space. Here already our first course had been placed, an artwork for the eye and a delight for the palate!

Our personal attendant served us one course after the other, with explanations. She was eager to answer our questions too, after all it was our first kaiseki meal ever. And we dined like royalty!

Here is the menu of our first evening with all the dishes.

I let the pictures do the talking!

Japanese breakfast

The breakfast was a similar affair, but shorter with fewer dishes, yet it was still an impressive number of plates and bowls! We could choose between rice and porridge to accompany the feast. For our western taste, the traditional Japanese breakfast focused a bit too much on fish. My husband and and I like seafood but not necessarily for breakfast. Notwithstanding that, it was something that we will remember forever!

To let you know how other breakfasts at ryokans with more western influences might be, here two pictures from the two other ryokans we stayed. The first one is from Takimi Onsen Inn in Nagiso (Kiso Valley), the second one from Honjin Hiranoya Kachoan in Takayama.

Attention, both previous photos are not from Madoka no Mori!

Ambiance/Service

Madoka no Mori’s serene ambiance of harmony and purity impressed me much. Staying here makes you relax and let go of all the tension you might feel. And the staff was so friendly and helpful and at the same time discrete and unassuming. Our personal attendant, Misaki, went to great lengths to make our stay pleasant. We were lucky that she was assigned to us!

Overall

Staying at Madoka no Mori allowed us to fully immerse in an important part of the Japanese lifestyle. And this in one of the best ways imaginable! Everything my husband and I encountered here was just great, from the peaceful atmosphere to the immaculate staff and from the beautiful room to the unique culinary delights.

When traveling Japan, you should stay not only at one ryokan but opt for two of these traditional Japanese guesthouses at least. There are simply too many different kinds of those, and all of them are much more than just a place to sleep!

Next and last post about Japan

After reporting on serval aspects of our three-week Japanese journey (itinerary, hotels, dining-out, restaurants and now the ryokan experience), there is one last thing I want to highlight further. And this is about two areas in Japan that are a fair bit away from major cities. They can best be described as untouched rural Japan. I speak of the Kiso Valley in southwestern Nagano

and Yakushima Island just off Kiyushu’s southern coast.

Date of visit: November 2019

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The post How it is staying at a luxury ryokan (Japanese guesthouse) first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post How it is staying at a luxury ryokan (Japanese guesthouse) appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

In my first blogpost – before the coronavirus outbreak – I introduced my Google Map with all the activities, hotels and restaurants of a three-week trip through Japan in style, together with my husband. In the meantime, I let a year gone by without publishing any more content about my big journey to the Land of the Rising Sun. But now, I do not wait any longer, here is my second of five more blogposts to follow about my last international trip before corona changed our lives. It is about where to go for luxury hotels in Japan without overspending. I think we should go somewhere fabulous once we are able to travel again. And Japan is a worthy goal! After letting you know about where to stay in style in this country, I will go into following Japan topics in the time to come: find and reserve gourmet restaurants, my choice of fine dining spots, how it is staying at a luxury ryokan and two off the beaten path destinations.

Before coming to the subject of luxury lodging in Japan, here my Google Map of the trip, as a reminder. And this together with the itinerary in keywords.

My Google Map of our Japanese journey in style

In this map, you find all the details of our trip complete with short descriptions and pictures.

As to the route we took in Japan, we opted for the so called “Second Golden Triangle”. This extends the “Golden Triangle” of Tokyo, Kyoto and Osako by Takayama and Kanazawa in the Japan Alps. Further, we added three more rural spots – Hakone, Kiso Valley and Yakushima Island – to immerse even more in the country’s culture.

Types of accommodations in Japan

As you might know, there are not only Western-style hotels

in Japan but also Japanese ryokans.

These are traditional Japanese inns that feature tatami-matted rooms, communal hot spring baths (onsen) and other public areas where guests may wear their personal yukata (kimono). You are here on half board, and often you are served Kaiseki Ryori, multi-course Japanese style haute cuisine.

But no worry, if you attach much value to having your own bathroom, as my husband and I do, there are also luxury ryokans. These have not only a private bathroom but also sometimes your own onsen!

When traveling Japan, it is strongly recommended to book at least once or twice a ryokan. Only then you get the opportunity to experience a traditional Japanese lifestyle.

My husband and I went for a mix of Western hotels and ryokans. Find below a short overview on all the eight hotels we stayed in Japan. Just to remind you, all our lodging is shown in my mentioned Google Map.

Hotels to stay in style on our Japanese tour

Out of the eight hotels in total we had three ryokans, and this at the beginning of our trip. We stayed at a luxury and strictly traditional one in Hakone (Madoka no Mori),

a rural mid-scale one in the Kiso Valley (Takimi Onsen Inn)

and a mid-scale to luxury one with some Western elements in Takayama (Honjin Hiranoya Kachoan).

I will go more into details of our ryokan adventures in further blogposts. And this when writing about our stay at Madoka no Mori in Hakone and later on when reporting on two rural Japanese destinations (Kiso Valley including Takimi Onsen Inn and Yakushima Island).

As to the remaining hotels, we stayed at following ones: a new comfortable hotel in Kanazawa (UAN Kanazawa Hotel), a luxury boutique hotel in old Kyoto (Hotel Mume), an upscale chain hotel in Osaka (InterContinental), the best high-end accommodation option in Yakushima Island (Sankara Hotel) and a luxury hotel in the heart of Tokyo’s business district (Palace Hotel).

While not all the hotels equally appealed to me, I would stay at all of them again. Whereas the one in Kanazawa was handy although a bit too much on the functional side, I was a great fan of our hotels in Hakone (Japan immersion in perfection, a blogpost about our stay here follows),

Kyoto (very personal with a tasty breakfast)

and in Tokyo (excellent location, balcony with stunning view and great club lounge).

The one in the Kiso Valley was a bit basic for me in terms of amenities (private albeit not en suite bathroom) but all the rest was so good that I would return in a heartbeat (more about it in a post to come).

3-week luxury Japan trip: looking back and forward 

After I went into the itinerary and activities of our three-week Japanese journey in my last post, I dived deeper in the issue of high-end hotels in Japan in this one. My next one covers dining, and this for gourmets (find & reserve restaurants, my choice of fine dining spots).

In further blogposts, I will describe our stay at a luxury (and very traditional) ryokan (Madoka no Mori in Hakone) and report on two rural spots that are not so frequently visited (Kiso Valley and Yakushima Island).

Date of visit: November 2019

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The post My Google HOTEL Map of a Japanese journey in style first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post My Google HOTEL Map of a Japanese journey in style appeared first on Swiss Traveler.