Last but not least in my mini-series about Mallorca, some info about where to go for staying and dining in style in Palma de Mallorca, the island’s capital. This after I reported on luxury hotels and (Michelin) restaurants in three other spots on the Balearics’ biggest island. The start was an a look at Mallorca’s tourism gone amok. This was followed by a 15-day itinerary pointing out high-end lodging in four different places. To each and every spot, I provided details, beginning with the southwest, continuing with the north and the northeast and ending with Palma in this post.

Before plunging in medias res, some lines to Palma, Mallorca’s capital.

Palma de Mallorca, the island’s capital 

Whereas it might be a good idea to give an island’s capital a pass in other places, this is definitely not the case for Palma de Mallorca.

While Palma’s old town was once a no-go zone, it has been spruced up in recent years and has become a tourist attraction.

Now, it truly is an atmospheric place where winding alleys are lined with mansions adorned with wrought iron balconies. And the whole is dominated by the colossal cathedral, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Palma is not only worth going to because of its sights, but also has an impressive offer for discerning travelers. This both in terms of high-end lodging and gourmet dining.

Luxury hotel & Michelin restaurant scene in Palma

Palma de Mallorca’s top-tier luxury hotels and superlative gastronomy are a real draw. You are spoilt for choice when coming here as lover of fine accommodation and dining.

I, for myself, took a practical approach to where to stay in Palma. When doing research about the most sophisticated hotel of our Mallorca trip, Castell Son Claret (my post), I made an interesting discovery. This accommodation used to host the former one and only two-star Michelin establishment on the island, Restaurant Zaranda.

In the meantime, the dining spot moved to Palma, and this to a recently opened luxury hotel in Palma’s old town, Hotel Es Princep. This was reason enough for me to stay here – as I absolutely wanted to dine at Zaranda. And the hotel reviews were favorable too. Plus, my husband and I had only two nights to spend in Palma. So, we made it easy for us, two in one.

High-end hotels in Palma

As I explained before, Hotel Es Princep was the perfect choice for us in Palma (details on the accommodation follow below). Yet I came across a handful of other luxury hotels that seemed appealing. Check out the following ones in case you care for staying in style in Mallorca’s capital:

• San Francesc Hotel Singular
• El Llorenc Parc de la Mar
• Can Bordoy Grand House & Garden
• Palacio Can Marques

Michelin fine dining spots in Palma

Once again, I had made the decision where to dine in Palma – we had something to celebrate – before doing a more elaborate research on Michelin fine dining in Palma. But this “duty” was not cancelled, just postponed. And when I finally managed to have a more thorough look at the island’s capital, I was astonished to learn that there is a myriad of foodie hotspots in town. And that made it not easy for me to choose a restaurant for our second dinner. We finally opted for the one-star Michelin Adrián Quetglas

(more about it later on). But there are many more venues that might be good choices:

• Marc Fosh: modern cuisine, one-star Michelin
• La Vieja Palma: regional cuisine/tapas, Michelin listed
• Quadrat: modern cuisine, Michelin listed, at San Francesc Hotel Singular
• Sumaq: Peruvian cuisine, Michelin listed
• DINS Santi Taura: modern cuisine, one-star Michelin, at Hotel El Llorenc Parc de la Mar
• Stagier Bar: modern cuisine, Michelin listed

Our choice of staying and dining in style in Palma 

As outlined above, I had established a favorite for a Michelin starred fine dining experience pretty fast. And when I found out later that it was located at a luxury hotel, we booked a room here as well.

Staying in style in Palma de Mallorca at Hotel Es Princep

As you know by know, my husband and I decided to lodge at Hotel Es Princep for our Palma stay. Find some information about it in the following.

Location

It is situated at the edge of Palma’s old town, in a quiet corner not far from the capital’s famous cathedral (a bit more than 10 minutes by foot). The area dates back to before the Romans. The narrow winding cobblestone streets behind the hotel have not changed much over the centuries.

Es Princep is just by the old city walls that have been restored recently. In addition, you can overlook the Bay of Palma from here.

An another plus is that the airport is only ten minutes away by car. And if you want to go to the beach, the nearest one is less than 15 minutes by foot away.

Ambiance/Staff

Although Es Princep is a new hotel (it was opened in 2018), it has a historic relevance. It was built on a spot where a medieval tannery was located. Exposed excavations from it are preserved under glass at Restaurant Zaranda

(see below).

Otherwise the hotel has an uncomplicated urban feel. It is chic, airy and lively. The ambiance in the spacious open-plan lobby/restaurant area is always busy. Staff is friendly, helpful and accommodative. And it is a member of the prestigious The Leading Hotels of the World.

Rooms/Pricing

The hotel has 68 rooms in different categories, most of them with sea view and some with small balconies. Rates start at 240€ (low season). The accommodations are of clean-lined elegance, the decor kept in natural hues.

As my husband and I had a special occasion, we had opted for the best room category, the Signature Suite Sea View. These accommodations are large (55 sqm), feature a bedroom with a bath tub

and a separate sizable living-room.

The only thing I disliked was the rather small bathroom with impractical doors.

On our stay in mid April this suite was competitively priced (657€ including breakfast).

Other facilities

Onsite you find two restaurants, the signature Michelin-starred restaurant Zaranda (see below) and an all-day dining spot just by the lobby. There are two bars, Gremium

on the ground level and a Rooftop Bar. Apropos roof, it is one of the old town biggest,

with a pool and fabulous views of sea and cathedral.

And of course there is a spa too, with a second pool.

After this info to staying in style in Palma, here are details to two culinary hotspots in town.

Dining in style in Palma de Mallorca

As mentioned, we had booked at Hotel El Princep’s signature restaurant, Zaranda, and a further fine dining restaurant, Adrián Quetglas. Here is how it was.

1. Restaurant Zaranda (1 star Michelin, Hotel Es Princep)

As chef Fernando Pérez Arellano fell out with his former host (Klaus-Michael Kuehne at Hotel Castell Son Claret) – where he had received two Michelin stars in 2016 – he needed a new one. After a year of searching, he finally found a home for his Zaranda (means sieve), and this at Hotel Es Princep in Palma. He started in August 2022 and within three months he regained one of his two Michelin stars.

The born “Madrileño” knows how to present himself and his cuisine. Dining at Zaranda is not a simple affair but an immersive experience. 14 chefs are at work here in an open kitchen where you can watch all the action throughout the day.

And if you make a reservation here, you are in for dining in three different locations. This when going for the Dermis Second Skin Menu (145€) or the Epidermis Collagens (165€). You may also choose the Hypodermis Essentials (125€), where you can devour the chef’s “evergreen” dishes (in bar and dining room). The former menus are more on the “adventurous” side with newer creations (especially Epidermis). You get the snacks at the bar,

the prelude at the open kitchen’s bar (the chef himself prepares food in front of you)

and the main act in the dining room.

My husband and I opted for the the whole she-bang. It was one hell of a ride, a feast for all the senses!

In case you are wondering about the somewhat extraordinary menu labelings, they are not without reason. Fernando Pérez Arellano’s menus are based on the history of his new location, the Roman ruins of Palma’s former tanners’ quarter. Skin is present in his creations all the time. And he really managed to integrate this theme in a way that amazes you.

2. Restaurant Adrián Quetglas (Michelin)

UPDATE: Michelin listed since November 2024

While I was still a bit overwhelmed by the extraordinary dining experience at Restaurant Zaranda from the previous day, I was looking forward to a “more mundane” dinner. Though, this is admittedly ot the accurate expression for dining at Adrián Quetglas. His cuisine may be more down to earth yet it is also on a high level.

The chef was born in Buenos Aires. When he was  a teenager, his family moved to Mallorca (his father comes from here). In his professional career, he also worked with Marc Fosh, the famous local chef – and his friend. Later on he was lured abroad. After ten long years in Russia, Adrián Quetglas returned to Mallorca in 2015.

His mission is it “to democratize haute cuisine”. So, he serves high-end food at affordable prices. On offer is market cuisine, and he combines tradition with avantgarde. When having dinner here, there is no choice, you get the seven-course tasting menu “only”. Though, it is very reasonably priced, at 75€. On our visit, you could replace the main course (pork) with pigeon (additional charge of 8€) or add a cheese course (plus 14€).

I liked what I got and felt well at ease in the restaurant’s relaxed setting. Service was hospitable, warm and efficient. We enjoyed our evening at Adrián Quetglas. And I find it nice that he pursues a “democratization approach” as to gourmet cuisine!

Looking back at my Mallorca posts

My first trip ever to Mallorca brought me to four different places on this Balearic Island, the southwest, the north, the northeast and Palma, the capital. Here on this blog, I let you know about where to go for staying and dining in style in each of these parts. And this very post was about Palma de Mallorca, my last stop on the island and also my last blogpost about this island in the Mediterranean Sea. A 15-day itinerary preceded this detail reports. And the beginning made an insight into Mallorca’s (excessive) tourism.

Date of stay: April 2022

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After details to Mallorca’s north and southwest in terms of staying and dining in style in my previous posts, this one will deliver the same for the northeast around Canyamel. One more of this kind will follow, and that about Palma, the island’s capital. Some thoughts about Mallorca’s overtourism made the start to this mini-series, followed by a 15-day itinerary where I gave an overview about great luxury hotels and (Michelin) fine dining in four spots spread over this Balearic Island.

Before going into staying and dining in style in Mallorca’s northeast, first some information about this area.

Mallorca’s northeast, around Canyamel

When I mentioned at the hotel in Pollença where my husband and I were staying that our next stop was Canyamel, the Mallorcan receptionist was clueless about its loction. It is no wonder because this place is definitely one of Mallorca’s more remote corners. You find here on the island’s east coast – a bit more than a one hour drive from the capital – a pleasantly unspoilt vacation resort.

Canyamel boasts a so-called Blue Flag beach (symbol of clean sands and water excellence), but otherwise it is rather low-key with just a handful of hotels.

It is close to Artá (15 minutes by car), a culturally significant town, which is well worth a visit.

Staying in style in Mallorca’s northeast at Hotel Can Simoneta

In addition to the few middle-class hotels onsite there are two high-end hotels, which are sister properties. Both are adults-only and persuade with a secluded setting and lots of (free) space. There is Hotel Can Simoneta on the one hand, the older of the two (opened in 2004), with a fantastic setting between pines and sea.

On the other hand, there is the more modern Hotel Pleta de Mar, opened in 2017, amidst a peaceful pine forest.

They are both members of a small hotel group owned by a Mallorcan family.

We went for the former. And this because of Can Simoneta’s proximity to the sea and its contemporary yet classical Mallorcan style.

Location/Ambiance

There is one more thing to add as to Hotel Can Simoneta’s situation. It is more favorably located – compared to Hotel Pleta de Mar – , if you look for nearness to the sea. The hotel is positioned atop a high cliff with fabulous views of the Bay of Canyamel.

One of three buildings with guest accommodations is directly by the water. This is the Beach House, where my husband and I were staying.

From here, you can walk to Platja de Canyamel, the public beach in a few minutes.

I was very much in favor of the hotel’s vibe. It is laid-back yet sleek at the same time. When walking the grounds, you discover lots of wonderful spots where you would like to spend some time.

Each room has a designated open air space that is at your own disposal.

In addition, there are many more where you can settle down. It is a real piece of heaven for anyone seeking quiet and privacy.

Staff

We have experienced one of the best welcome ever at Can Canyamel. A lovely (German) lady let us know all the essentials and was able to fuel our anticipation. At another time, when we had asked for a taxi to a local gourmet temple – more about it to follow – , she let us know that their driver would bring us as he was free at that very moment.

But she was no exception. All the other staff we encountered, from the gardener to the restaurant personnel, were trained in the way of generous spirit.

On both time during dinner at Restaurant Can Simoneta (details follow) the hotel manager did the rounds to great guests, a nice touch.

Rooms/Pricing

The hotel is boutique, with 26 rooms only. Some are in the main house, which used to be a cow barn. Others are in the historic Guard House

and in the already mentioned Beach House.

They are available from 400€ (in low season). There are five categories to choose from, and each room is different from each other.

My husband and I had opted for a Suite Superior coming with a terrace,

a fantastic bedroom on the second floor (sea view from two sides),

a spacious bathroom in the mezzanine

and a small living room on the first floor.

Everything was kept in white and had a puristic feel. We paid 825€ per night including breakfast

in the first half of April.

Other facilities

There is a great infrastructure onsite (a restaurant, two swimming pools,



a spa,

a fitness room,

guest bikes), and this two times two because you can also use the facilities at the neighboring hotel (Pleta de Mar).

After these details to staying in style, here more information about where to go for Michelin fine dining. Out of my three tips,  two are onsite.

Dining in style in Mallorca’s northeast

As two prime restaurants are within easy reach, you do not have to venture far to get fine cuisine. Also the third one is close by, you get to it in less than ten minutes. And imagine, it even is the best dining spot on the island (two Michelin-starred).

1. Restaurant Can Simoneta by David Moreno (Michelin, Hotel Can Simoneta)

The chef is a native Mexican and you notice it straight away as he celebrates a fusion cuisine (Mallorcan and Mexican). He learnt with Andreu Genestra, a known Michelin starred local chef. We had dinner at Restaurant Can Simoneta twice, and we liked what we got.

With regard to food offerings, you could either go for à la carte or the tasting menu (90€). All the dishes come with a Mexican touch. We ordered both times from the à la carte menu, and I especially liked the two mains I had, Black Pig from Mallorca

and the Baked Turbot.

While service was good on our first visit, it was a bit slow in places when we dined here on another evening. Both times the servers were friendly and hospitable. The setting is pleasant with huge windows facing the pool.

2. Restaurant Sa Pleta by Marc Fosh (Michelin, Hotel Pleta de Mar)

When staying at Can Simoneta, this restaurant at its sister hotel is a short walk away. The scenery at Sa Pleta is lovely. You pass an open kitchen while entering.

Also the dining room conveys openness and is more modern than the one at our hotel.

When sitting here, you have beautiful views of the pool and can catch glimpses of the sea shimmering through the trees.

The kitchen is overseen by Marc Fosh, A Brit who has been living and working for almost 30 years in Mallorca. His main restaurant is in Palma where he received a Michelin star as first British chef on this island. Here in Canyamel he counts on Mediterranean cuisine coming from an open fire where the smoke and flames are responsible for unique flavors.

As at the sister restaurant, you can choose between à la carte and a tasting menu (90€). My husband and I opted for the former. While he enjoyed a delicious “Bombeta” Rice with Lobster,

I was enchanted by a fabulous Tartar of Prawns and Marinated Tuna

(both starters). The food in general was at least as good as at the neighboring Can Simoneta.

3. Restaurant Voro (2 stars Michelin, Cap Vermeil Grand Hotel)

Our dinner at this beautiful venue at the Cap Vermell Grand Hotel was one of the culinary highlights of our Mallorca stay.

Not only is the food superb, also the dining room is an absolute gem – stylish and sophisticated –

and service was immaculate.

On charge here is Àlvaro Salazar who has been working here since spring 2019. The Spanish born chef – from Andalucia – got his first Michelin star in 2015 at Restaurant Argos in Port de Pollença and his second in 2021. When coming to Canyamel, be brought along his whole team from the “Argos Project”. And still all its current members were already part of the crew in Port de Pollença.

As to food, you can choose among two tasting menus. “Voro” consists of 17 (125€) and Devoro of 22 (165€). Voro stems from the Latin word “vorare” and means “devour”. Devoro means more or less the same.  The basic idea of this dining spot’s concept is it to constantly evolve these two menus to an always higher level.

For our part, we went for the “Voro” menu. And it was a complete success! Each dish was well composed, with unexpected elements in each that made it a truly memorable dining experience.

Looking back and forward

A look at Mallorca’s out of control mass tourism made the start to a mini-series about this island. This was followed by posts suiting my “core business”, blogging about staying and dining in style. It began with a 15-day itinerary covering luxury hotels and (Michelin) fine dining. Then I went into each of four places on this Balearic Island (southwest, north, northeast and Palma) highlighting where to go for staying and dining in style. This very post was about the northeast and the next will focus on Mallorca’s capital, Palma.

Date of stay: April 2022

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Now it is up to where to go for staying and dining in style in Mallorca’s north in the Pollença area. This is the second of four posts in total about luxury hotels and (Michelin) fine dining on this Balearic Island, region-by-region. My last blogpost went into Mallorca’s southwest. In my next one, I will inform on the northeast around Canyamel. And the Balearics’ capital of Palma will make the end. This mini-series about Mallorca started with thoughts to the island’s overtourism. It was followed by a 15-day itinerary that outlined staying and dining in style in an overall way.

First a few lines about Pollença and its surroundings. Then I will deal with a great upscale hotel and three just such (Michelin) restaurants right away.

Mallorca’s north, around Pollença

Pollença (7 km/4.4 mi from the coast) and Port de Pollença (on the sea) are both small traditional vacation resorts. And fortunately, there is little mass tourism here. While the former is an attractive ancient town, the latter is a relaxed beach resort. Palma is about a 45-minute-drive away from Pollença.

When you are in the area, do not miss Pollença’s many sights, just as El Calvari, where 365 steps lead you to the church from the 18th century. As to Port de Pollença, it is a nice thing to stroll along the Pine Walk (Passeig Vora Mar). This stretch of bay is known for many beautiful properties built by rich Mallorcan and Spanish people. Right after Port de Pollença, the Formentor peninsula starts. If you go to its very end – not possible per car anymore – you come to Cap Formentor, Mallorca’s most northern tip.

Staying in style in Mallorca’s north at Hotel Son Brull

The place to go here for upscale lodging is Hotel Son Brull, a member of the Relais & Château hotel group. The accommodation, a former monastery, is boutique and run by the Mallorcan Suau family. It is a 30-hectare/74-acre estate, but most hotel facilities are concentrated on a relatively small surface.

Location

Son Brull is seven minutes by car away from the town of Pollença, amidst beautiful nature. Although you have views of the Bay of Pollença in the distance, it is basically an inland setting. Furthermore, you are here in the foothills of the northern Tramuntana mountains. Although Son Brull is a large property, going for a short stroll is not really an option. The furthest walk you can undertake is the one to the tennis court (about 5 minutes).

Ambiance/Staff

Compared to the hotel my husband and I were before (Castell Son Claret, my post), the vibe here is more relaxed and casual. If you have a request or a question, staff is friendly and ready to be of service. However, pampering guests is not their thing, they rather have an understated approach when dealing with their clientele. Nevertheless, you feel well at ease here.

Rooms/Pricing

There are 27 guest rooms in total. 23 are in the main building, and only a few of them have balconies. In addition, there are four new two-room villas onsite. They are a few steps away with great views of the countryside.

And these accommodations are high-end. Not only have they a separate living room with fireplace but also a private garden with pool. Rates for the least expensive room (Superior Double 32-35 sqm) start from 252€ in low and twice as much in shoulder season.

We had chosen the (one and only) Junior Suite with Terrace (70 sqm).

It is well-appointed in a modern style with a sizable bathroom

and a separate tub in the bedroom.

The room’s best feature is the terrace with a jacuzzi and an outdoor living room.

The rate for it was 730€ per night including breakfast in early April.

Other facilities

Two restaurants and a bar offer dining opportunities for all occasions. For more information on the food, please refer to the section about dining in style. Besides there are a spa, an indoor and outdoor pool,

a tennis court and guest bikes.

Other luxury lodging in the area

As from 2023, Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts will be present in Mallorca. They will manage the former Hotel Formentor on the Formentor peninsula. My husband and I passed it while doing a hike in the area.

The setting is truly appealing, right on the beach in a remote location.

While it must be the paradise for beachgoers and hikers, it probably is not your first choice if you plan to explore the whole island from here. This is due to the fact that this beautiful spot draws massive crowds who come here for a day trip. So you might get stuck in the traffic every now and then.

Now to three recommended dining-spots for foodies in the area, out of which two are at Hotel Son Brull.

Dining in style in Mallorca’s north

On our stay in early April not all the dining venues that I had looked into were already open for the season (for instance Maca de Castro in Alcúdia, one-star Michelin, or Fusion19 in Playa de Muro, Michelin listed). So, our choice was a bit limited. Luckily, we could make use of three dining opportunities at our hotel, Son Brull, from which we tried out two. To our disappointment, the nearby town of Pollença does not excel with top gastronomy. Instead, we found a casual foodie place in the nearby Port de Pollença.

1. 365 Restaurant (signature – Michelin – restaurant at Hotel Son Brull)

Hotel Son Brull’s signature restaurant, 365,

offers a superb fine dining experience that is amazingly affordable too. You can have here a multi-course tasting menu only, either six or eight courses. It is up to you to choose the regular (70/90€) or the vegetarian (60/80€) one. As the latter one sounded interesting, my husband and I gave it a try and we were not disappointed. The chef, Andreu Segura, plays well with textures and flavors. He created a great culinary journey, rooted in his home island of Mallorca. For this purpose, he uses produce that stems from the hotel’s own farm and other local producers. We even got a cheese course on the house, a nice touch. My favorite courses – yet all were delicious – were maybe the green peas as an open “panada” (pie)

or the artichoke “negra” (black) with almond.

The setting at 365 is great. While the dining-room inside the old walls is rather dark, it is elegantly furbished in a modern style.

And when the weather is fine, you can have dinner poolside. Service was pleasant and helpful yet rather on the unassuming side. As at the hotel overall, making a fuss or being pompous is not their style. Regarding staff, we especially appreciated the sommelier’s expertise and gracious attitude.

2. Bistro (second restaurant at Hotel Son Brull)

The second restaurant at Hotel Son Brull, Bistro, is for people looking for an uncomplicated yet tasty dinner. From what I understand, they have recently upgraded their offerings, from only some basics to quite a choice of Mediterranean-style dishes. My husband and I had definitely no problems finding something that appealed to us. We started with tapas,

continued by lobster rice

respectively red tuna loin.

Everything we had was of high quality, well prepared and full of taste.

The Bistro is housed in a historic olive mill that was beautifully restored.

There is also a second dining-room plus alfresco dining, weather permitting. As to service, they did a good job and we enjoyed our evening here.

3. Restaurant Terrae Port de Pollença (Michelin)

The dinner at this modern rustic restaurant – Michelin listed – was a memorable one. This because Terrae was special, in many ways. By chance, we were already in town the afternoon before dining here. Therefore, we decided to catch a glance at the Terrae. While doing so, a nice guy from the opposite side of the street asked us whether we are looking for something. And it turned out that he was the dining-spot’s chef, David Rivas. He comes from Margarita, an island in the Venezuelan Caribbean and has been cooking in Port de Pollença for more than six years.

When entering the dining-spot in the evening, the air was smoky from the grill. But things got better quickly. We were ushered to a tiny wooden table, but everything here is so. There are only a few tables, and the chef stands in front of the counter preparing the dishes. At the other side of it, there is the “grill master”.

We received no menu, a server told us what was available. We ordered tapas (bread with hummus, smoked cabbage croquettes, smoked duck breast),

followed by lamb confit with potatoes.

Everything was fabulous, also the dessert, David’s take on lime tart.

He only uses sustainable, local produce and prepares them in a twisty way, we liked it! And the experience was very personable too. The ambiance at Terrae is very casual, I could imagine that it is not for everyone here, but the chef really knows his stuff!

Looking back and forward

After giving an overview of where to go for staying and dining in style when doing a round trip in Mallorca (four places: southwest, north, northeast and Palma), I continued with detailed reports on the individual spots. My last went into the southwest (around Capdellà), the current was about the north and the next will focus on the Canyamel area in the northeast.

The whole thing will be rounded off with information to a luxury hotel and two Michelin one-star restaurant in Palma, the island’s capital.

In case you should be interested in the touristic situation of Mallorca, I also devoted a blogpost to its overtourism and what the island does to fight against it.

Date of stay: April 2022

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Mallorca’s southwest, around Es Capdellà

I am almost certain that most travelers to Mallorca, even regulars, will not know Es Capdellà. It is a peaceful village located inland at the foot of the Tramuntana mountains. From Palma you head west and reach this small town in about half an hour by car. The major attraction here is the beauty of unspoiled nature. The nearest tourist spots from Es Capdellà are Peguera (10 minutes by car), Portal Nous (16 minutes by car) and Port D’Andratx (18 minutes by car). The latter is a great place to go for having dinner in local restaurants.

Staying in style in Mallorca’s southwest at Hotel Castell Son Claret

If you look for a luxury hideaway in the southwest of Mallorca, then you cannot go wrong with Hotel Castell Son Claret. It is one of the finest accommodations not only in the area but on the whole island (member of The Leading Hotels of the World). No expense was spared – the owners are Christine and Klaus-Michael Kuehne – to make it the ultimate lodging for staying in style in Mallorca.

Location 

It is situated four minutes by car from Es Capadellà, in a remote location amidst beautiful nature. The property is one of the largest private ones in Mallorca (132 hectares/326 acres). There is a number of walks to make on the premises. The longest one took my husband and me one and a half hours to finish! And this in unspoiled countryside.

Ambiance/Staff

Castell Son Claret is an oasis of calm and serenity. There is all the space you need and room to breathe. Beauty is everywhere your eyes fall on, be it inside the lavish buildings from the 15th century or in the outside areas. As to the latter, I especially loved the large courtyard of Restaurant Sa Clastra

and the impressive 250-m/820 ft palm-lined entrance

that finds its continuation in a water course leading to the castle.

The staff goes above and beyond to make your stay perfect. Whenever we showed up in the reception area, they asked about our wellbeing and offered to get our rental car from the parking space. And this regardless of how many times we had declined this offer before. Also all the other staff we interacted with showed a gracious attitude.

Rooms/Pricing

Other facilities

Dining in style in Mallorca’s southwest

You do not have to go far to enjoy excellent food because Hotel Castell Son Claret features two great dining venues. If you look for a change and want to dine at local restaurants, then the Port d’Andratx area offers quite a choice. My husband and I checked out both dining-spots at our hotel and two at the mentioned coastal town.  Here is more about our dining experiences.

1. Sa Clastra (signature – Michelin – restaurant at Hotel Son Claret)

UPDATE: one Michelin star since November 2023

Castell Son Claret used to host a two-star Michelin restaurant, Zaranda. But then the owner and the chef had some disagreements. So the latter left and moved his dining-spot to Palma (read how it is in my post about Mallorca’s capital). The young Mallorcan sous-chef, Jordi Cantó, took over at Castell Son Claret’s signature place.

We had dinner at this elegant dining venue

twice – there is also a gorgeous courtyard for warmer seasons – , and we liked the chef’s refined cuisine. While not each and every dish was a “greatest hit,” some of them were truly exceptional. I especially liked Jordi Cantó’s take of “Brut” Rice, a Mallorcan staple (Arroz Brut).

This means “Dirty Rice” and it is some sort of rice casserole made with broth and loaded with meat and vegetables.

In terms of preparation and presentation, everything was done to perfection and nicely arranged. I found the snacks photogenic in particular. You got them assigned to the different parts of the Balearic Islands.

As to the flavor combinations, they did not always totally work for me. That was for example the case for the dish called “Marrow, Beef & Truffle” where I had trouble seeing the dish’s “inner connection”. Notwithstanding that, I am confident that Sa Clastra will get a Michelin star in the time to come. I only hope that the price level will not rise further because I considered it already quite high.

2. Olivera (restaurant at Hotel Son Claret)

The second restaurant at Hotel Son Claret offers fine cuisine as well. In a well-advised contrast to the high-end Sa Clastra, food is rather on the hearty yet healthy side. You have here quite a choice of Spanish-Mediterranean classics, immaculately prepared and presented.

The ambiance at this more down to earth dining venue is relaxed and pleasant. Several dining-rooms plus a wonderful outdoor area are at your disposal.

As in the signature restaurant, the pricing is upscale. But you can limit your expenses if you choose wisely as we did. We opted for croquettes

and Moroccan style slow roasted shoulder of lamb served with spiced couscous,

which were both formidable. For hotel guests there is also a half board option (three courses for 70€).

Olivera is also the place where you have breakfast as hotel guest, and this is really a big deal. The offerings were well put together, of high quality and nicely arranged.

Now to two recommended fine dining in the Port d’Andratx area.

I had also checked out such restaurants in the direction of Palma. But they were mostly located at hotels or were not that appealing. So we settled for the before mentioned region and were not disappointed.

3. Verico Port d’Andratx

This is an upscale Italian restaurant just by the yacht harbor. You enjoy here not only fabulous views but also fine cuisine with a twist in a pleasant ambiance.

Apart from a small à la carte menu there is a changing 4-course menu (53€). While my husband and I did not go for it, we noticed that quite a few guests – there seems to be many regulars – ordered it. And I had the impression that you get good value for money.

Verico is family-run, and they really know what they do. You feel here like in Italy, a charming maître d’ welcomes you and ushers you to your table. Here tasty Parmesan cheese, olive oil and fresh bread await you. And food was delicious, may it be the pasta

and the fish of the day

or the tiramisu,

one of several suggestions by the server. Portions are not large but sufficient, prices are moderate to high (choose the 4-course menu for a meal worth the cost). And the best here is – apart from the good food – the amiable service!

4. Oliu Andratx

Oliu is located on the premises of a former olive press on the main road between Andratx and Port d’Andratx. It is a nice property, the interiors are kept in a tasteful contemporary style. There is also a large outdoor area in a densely overgrown Mediterranean garden.

On offer here is modern Mediterranean cuisine. You can make your choice out of  a regularly changing à la carte menu, depending from what the nearby organic vegetable garden provides. Alternatively, you can opt for a degustation menu. I had foie gras pâté,

followed by sea bass,

which were both tasty. For dessert, I shared with my husband the house specialty, Oliu, that suits the building’s history. It was olive ice cream with chocolate and vanilla (good but filling).

The price level at Oliu is moderate (most mains are under 30€). Service is friendly and understated. You feel at ease here, food is fine and it is no wallet breaker.

Looking back and forward

My first Mallorca post was about its (excessive) tourism, followed by an overview of where to stay and dine in style on this Balearic Island. My husband and I made some sort of round trip where we stayed at four different luxury hotels and dined at upscale (Michelin) restaurants, both onsite and outside of our accommodation.

This very post made the start (southwest around Es Capdellà), three more will follow. They go into other Mallorca areas: north around Pollença,

northeast around Canyamel and southwest again, Palma, the island’s capital.

Date of stay: April 2022

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It took my husband and me long, very long, until our first visit to Mallorca. And this is not without reason. The biggest Balearic Island has been known to be an overtouristed destination for decades (see my post). Until recently, this place was not on our bucket list. And if there had not been the pandemic, I doubt we would have thought about coming to Mallorca. Well, never say never! Finally, we did it. And while it certainly is no big love for me, I do not rule out to return. This destination has much to offer, not only in terms of the “3S” (sun sea sand) and sights, but also when it comes to staying and dining in style in Mallorca. There is quite a number of excellent luxury hotels and Michelin restaurants on this island, from which we visited quite a few.

Before going into details about the hotels we stayed and the restaurants we dined, here is the itinerary of our trip.

Mallorca 15-day road trip itinerary

Find here my Google Map of our journey.

1. Es Capdellà (southwest)

Flying into the Palma de Mallorca airport, we saved the Balearic Islands’ capital for the end of our trip. We drove along Palma’s waterfront to catch at first glimpse at its famous cathedral,

before continuing to the island’s southwest. Here we lodged inland at the foot of the Tramuntana mountains, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was an ideal base to explore the southern part of this impressive mountain range with lots of beautiful landscapes,

picturesque villages

and stunning walks.

Our hotel for the first five nights was near Es Capdellà, a pleasant village in the pre-Tramuntana mountains.

2. Pollença (north)

For our second stay we headed north, and this to Pollença.

It is considered as the cultural capital of the north. Apart from featuring a beautiful old town, it also has nice surroundings.

Our hotel was in the town’s outskirt, where we spent four nights. The days were filled with activities (often hikes) in the northern part of the Tramuntana mountains

and on the Cap Formentor,

Mallorca’s most northern tip. And we also checked out the lovely seaside towns in the area.

3. Canyamel (northeast)

For four more nights, we were in Canyamel. This is a small, quiet resort on the far northeast coast of Mallorca.

From here we explored the island’s eastern part, which is partly hilly but not really mountainous and sometimes also quite flat. You find here not only old towns worth seeing

but also a considerable number of walking options.

As we had opted for a beachside hotel, we also enjoyed some of our time just being by the sea.

4. Palma de Mallorca (southwest)

Our last stop was – as announced – Mallorca’s capital of Palma.

I strongly advice not to skip this city because it is a truly atmospheric place! For our two last nights in Mallorca, we had chosen a hotel at the edge of the upper town,

which was a great location. Not only this oldest part of Palma has a great ancient feel, but you can easily reach all the important spots in town.

Staying & dining in style in Mallorca

As alway when traveling, my husband and I make sure that we choose hotels and restaurants that allow staying and dining in style. But we do this always with an eye for value for money, we do not want to pay exorbitant prices. I think that we managed quite well in Mallorca in this respect, maybe with one exception. And this were the restaurants at our first hotel, which I found price wise a bit over the top.

Find in the following a few brief remarks to all the luxury hotels and the fine dining restaurants we visited in Mallorca. Details about the individual establishments will follow in the time to come on this blog (southwest around Es Capdellà, north around Pollença, northeast around Canyamel, Palma de Mallorca).

1. Es Capdellà (Hotel Castell Son Claret etc)

Hotel Castell Son Claret & Restaurants Sa Clastra/Olivera plus two local restaurants

This was definitely the most upscale hotel of our Mallorca trip! The former 19th century castle

is exclusive, chic, and the superb staff pampers you all day long. And the privately owned property, one of the biggest estates on the island, is unbelievably beautiful. As to lodging, there are lots of options in different building, and rooms are timelessly elegant.

The inland location at the foot of the Tramuntana mountains is very idyllic yet only half an hour by car from Palma. Allow about the same time for reaching the most important sights in the southern part of the mentioned mountain range. The two restaurants – one of them Michelin listed – are very good yet at the higher end of the price scale.

Furthermore, we dined at two local eateries around Port d’Andratx, which offered well-made food, reasonably priced.

2. Pollença (Hotel Son Brull etc)

Hotel Son Brull & Restaurants 365/Bistro plus one local restaurant

The former 18th century monastery

is also situated inland, and this in the foothills of the northern Tramuntana mountains. The stunning ancient town of Pollença is a few minutes away by car. The Son Brull is a luxury boutique hotel, owned by a Mallorcan family. The vibe here is relaxed, staff is friendly and discrete. Rooms are well-appointed in a modern style,

and there are different categories to choose from. The hotel is a great base to explore the scenic surroundings. Both dining-spots onsite – one of them Michelin listed – are excellent and fairly priced.

You can reach the hotel in a bit more than half an hour from Palma.

We also had dinner at a casual Michelin listed venue in Port de Pollenca, which was great.

3. Canyamel (Hotel Can Simoneta etc)

Hotel Can Simoneta & Restaurants Can Simoneta/Sa Pleta by Marc Fosh plus one local restaurant

As the two other hotels mentioned before, it is family owned and a historic place. The latter is at least true for the oldest of the three country houses, the 140 years old guardhouse. The hotel sits high atop cliffs with superb views of the bay of Canyamel in Mallorca’s quiet northeast.

The atmosphere here in this high-end adult-only lodging is tranquil and serene. Staff is attentive and efficient. The premises are kept in a contemporary style, all white and puristic.

From Can Simoneta you can easily discover the island’s east. Coming from Palma, you need a bit less than one hour to get to the hotel. We enjoyed here tasty dinners, and this at “our” hotel as well as at the adjoining sister property (both Michelin listed).

And note, dear gourmets, you find Mallorca’s best rated Michelin establishment in the immediate neighborhood! This is the Michelin two-star Voro at the Cap Vermell Grand Hotel. Of course, my husband and I made the trip to this temple of gastronomy, and we were delighted with our experience!

4. Palma de Mallorca (Hotel Es Princep etc)

Hotel Es Príncep & Restaurant Zaranda plus one local restaurant

Also this hotel is family owned and has a historical reference. It was built on the ruins of Palma’s tanners’ quarter.

If you have dinner at the accommodation’s signature restaurant Zaranda (one-star Michelin), you can look down through a glass floor on the finds of a former tannery from the 13th century. As to this dining-spot, it is one of the top foodie heavens on the island, helmed by Michelin two-star chef Fernando Pérez Arellano. We had a fabulous meal here where we changed locations twice.

In addition, there are lots of other upscale dining options outside the hotel. One more Michelin one-star restaurant was on our agenda.

The Es Príncep is a jewel in terms of lodging too.

The newly opened luxury hotel (2018) is at the edge of the capital’s historic old town, just along the old city walls. It is ideally located for exploring Palma’s numerous sights. And the airport is only ten minutes by car away. Many of the rooms, furnished in typical Mallorca style, have sea views. And the roof top terrace is one of the biggest in town. The vibe here is casual and unstuffy, staff is attentive without being intrusive.

Looking back and forward

While my last post was about Mallorca’s well known overtourism and the ways out of it, the current one is an overview about the 15th-day trip my husband and I took here in early spring 2022.

As my husband and I love staying and dining in style, we had chosen hotels and restaurants in Mallorca to suit our preference. We started with a luxury accommodation near the southern Tramuntana mountains, followed by another one not far from the northern part of this mountain range (both inland). Then we were ready for sea vibes, and this at a five-star establishment on the island’s rugged coast in the northeast. The last stop brought us to Palma – a worthwhile stand-alone destination – , where we lodged at a new high-end hotel in the capital’s historic old town. And throughout our Mallorcan journey, we made sure to dine at the island’s best (Michelin) restaurants whenever possible.

Next on my blog, you will find details about all four stops we did in Mallorca, and this regarding staying and dining. I begin with the southwest (Es Capdellà), continue with the north (Pollença), come to Canyamel (northeast) and end with Palma (capital).

Date of visit: April 2022

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Mallorca, the most visited of the Balearic Islands near the eastern coast of the Iberian Peninsula, must make important decisions as to its excessive tourism. Are the local government’s small corrections of recent years enough to bring about a change of course? Here is how this small island has become one of Europe’s major tourist destinations. And find out what has been done to curb excesses originated by this development.

Before coming to Mallorca’s tourism – that has run amok – , some facts about this vacation destination, which my husband and I had chosen for this year’s spring vacation. And this for the first time ever! After doing so, further posts will be about topics I usually write about, staying and dining in style. First, I will outline our trip’s itinerary, before providing details for every stop in Mallorca (overview, southwest, north, northeast and Palma de Mallorca).

About Mallorca

Mallorca is one of the Mediterranean most desirable vacation destinations. Since 1983, it has been – together with the rest of the Balearic Islands – an autonomous region of Spain. This island enjoys a mild climate with lots of sunshine (annual average of 2,850 hours) and has an average temperature of 18°C/64°F. The tourist season is concentrated from May to October.

While most tourists come for sun, sand and sea,

the island offers something in terms of nature and culture too. Think of the Tramuntana mountains, a protected natural area that was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2011.

Or there is a myriad of places worth experiencing. In this context you have to mention the capital of Palma

or the small towns of Sóller

and Pollença.

And Mallorca is within easy reach of many European countries. In many cases you need no more than two and a half hours by plane to get to it. In addition, there are many (cheap) flights to choose from.

From mass tourism to a more sustainable one?

Tourism development

Spain is one of Europe’s main tourism regions, and Mallorca is its flagship. In the Balearic Islands, where Mallorca is the most important one, the tourism is the “main industry”. 85% of its gross domestic product (GDP) stems from it. And 80% of tourists to this island are international, mainly from Germany and the U.K. (Balearic Island Regional Context Survey).

Since the 1950s, Mallorca has become a major tourist destination. As to the number of visitors per year, there were 3 million in the 1970s, 6 million in 2013, 10 million in 2017 and 12 million in 2019 (Wikipedia/National Geographic). And this with Mallorca’s population of under one million! Of course, this rapid growth caused damages in various areas.

Consequences of the unrestricted tourism growth

Before coming to the effects of Mallorca’s growing popularity among tourists, first to how it all began. Long before overtourism was a problem for cities just as Venice or Barcelona, Mallorca and other Balearic Islands were already known for an out-of-control development of the touristic activities. There is even a specific term for it, the balearización.

Back in the 1950s, Spain’s fascist regime thought that tourism might be an ideal source of revenue. So, they virtually invented European beach tourism. Around Palma, high-rises were erected to attract budget travelers in high numbers. Soon the cruise tourism followed. In such a way, visitors flooded Mallorca in the summer months.

Not before long, the economic blessing of the mass tourism turned into a tremendous burden. For half a century, Mallorca was a symbol of a mass tourism gone mad. Some places such as Magaluf and El Arenal became bywords for debauchery and bad behavior of young vacationers coming to the island looking for a good time.

Of course, Mallorca’s tabloid infamy damaged the island’s image. This not only in the international context, but also among locals. The term for the latter is turismòfobia. Along with this tourist saturation there were more issues: abusive consumption of resources, excessive dependance on tourism, road congestion or rise in prices of rentals and property.

Measures against overtourism

There has been a switch in attitudes on Mallorca for several years now. The local government seeks to make the island’s tourism more sustainable. This to recast its image as a travel destination. A sustainable tourism tax was introduced in 2016. This in order to raise funds for protecting the natural environment, recovering the historic heritage and developing infrastructures to foster slow tourism.

As to the cruise tourism, Mallorca’a officials have recently decided to limit arrivals as from 2023. From this point of time, there shall be no more than three vessels a day at Palma’s port. And only one of them is allowed to be a mega-cruise liner with more than 5,000 passengers. This is supposed to attain a 13% drop in arrivals, compared with 2019.

As far as the drink related problems in popular resorts are concerned, new laws were introduced for certain tourist zones. They do not only ban the sale of alcohol from 9.30 p.m. to 8 a.m., but also forbid all-in-one packages, happy hours, two-for-one drinks and pub crawls. Furthermore, it is illegal to advertise party boats in designated areas. All this in the hope to clear out the drunks and trade partiers for more well-behaved tourists.

Will the transformation into a sustainable tourism be achieved?

Mass tourism has troubled Mallorca for decades. Yet this development did not simply happen, but it was deliberate choice. And therefore, another direction is possible too. However, it will be no easy task. While the post-pandemic period is suitable for making a hard cut, it is also a time where many in the travel industry have empty coffers.

First steps towards a more sustainable tourism have been made, more have to follow. A more upmarket tourism will not immediately bring in the big money. Going through a dry spell seems inevitable. But there are not many who want the pre-pandemic tourism back, which was overwhelming in all respects. Instead, they wish for travelers swapping coastal mega resorts for seeking out natural landscapes and local culture. They want such ones who also spend money on upscale hotels and gourmet restaurants. And vacationers who not only come in July and August but also in the shoulder seasons. And in fact, a transformation seems underway. Quite a number of traverlers yearning for slow and sustainable travel already find their way to Mallorca.

What is next on this blog?

As mentioned at the beginning, there will be more about Mallorca on this blog. I spent a bit more than two weeks on this island in the first half of April, to get to know a destination that was new to me. And I was not only delighted by the island’s natural wonders and man-made attractions but also by its top-tier hotels and fine dining restaurants. While I will not report on the former, I will inform about the latter, and this in quite a few details. My husband and I checked out four luxury accommodations (overview, southwest, north, northeast and Palma de Mallorca) and some of the best gourmet dining-spots in Mallorca. I cannot wait to let you know about them.

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Location

Ambiance

Service

Facilities

and a glazed courtyard where the breakfast is taken.

Rooms

and with a view of the lovely vertical garden.

The bathroom is very stylish with a bathtub

and a huge shower.

Food

Pricing

Overall

The post Review of Mercer Hotel, Barcelona appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

The Costa Brava – “rugged coast” –  is a coastal region of northeastern Spain. It begins 60 km northeast of Barcelona and stretches to the French Boarder. From the 1960s, this area was developed as a destination for package vacations and got soon a rather bad reputation for its mass tourism with all the associated excesses. But this is just one side of the Costa Brava that besides I very rarely came across when traveling in the area. There is another, much more beautiful side showing when visiting the Costa Brava.

There are a favorable summer climate and an absolutely wonderful coastal area with a stunning scenery of cliffs and views of the Mediterranean Sea. There are also gorgeous fishing and/or medieval villages and – last but not least – many places to enjoy fine cuisine and at least one great hotel that also pleases demanding travelers.

Here is my list of where to stay and where to eat as well as what to do on a luxury stay on the Costa Brava.

One amazing hotel for luxury travel (Maybe there are more?)

Why did my husband and I chose the Costa Brava as a vacation destination? Mid July, we had one week to spare for a vacation between our house renovation and a longer stay in Singapur/Bali. We booked at short term because we wanted to be in a nearby place where the weather was good. When it became apparent – due to the bad weather forecasts – that we had to go further away, we extended our search for a suitable luxury hotel.

We checked all the possibilities in the south of France, in central Italy and in Spain and finally found the Hostal de la Gavina in S’Agaro, an upmarket resort located about 1 1/4 hours by car north of Barcelona. All the biases we had in connection with the Costa Brava run high, but – when looking at the pictures provided by the hotel – we quickly fell in love with the area. And believe it or not, it is even more beautiful in reality than on fotos!

Hostal de la Gavina, S’Agaro

The Hostal de la Gavina in S’Agaro is the only five-star Grand Luxe hotel on the Costa Brava and belongs to the group of The Leading Hotels of the World. It is located on a small peninsula between 2 secluded bays that each have a sandy beach. The hotel is part of an upscale community including about 60 exclusive houses that has been designed by a famous Catalan architect in the 1920s. This in order to make sure that the buildings form  a visual unity and this in sympathy with the landscape, the rugged coast and the vegetation.

As you may have guessed, the Hostal de la Gavina is a historic hotel – opened in 1932 – and that shows. You cannot expect huge rooms with all the modern amenities. Of course they do make maintenance works (there are e.g. an efficient air conditioning and modern bathrooms), but you cannot say that the hotel is totally renovated.

We had a Suite Deluxe that is equipped with antique furniture and has a comfortable, albeit small bathroom. We loved the superb view of the garden and the sea. There are several restaurants – also the renovated restaurant Candlelight of a Michelin-starred chef – a lovely pool area, a tennis club with many courts and all the facilities of a typical five-star hotel. The staff is friendly and helpful, we felt very much at ease there.

Hostal de la Gavina, S’Agaro

6 outstanding restaurants for food lovers

As usual I did not leave anything to chance when it comes to good food! Despite the fact that we booked our stay at short term, I checked as many restaurants as possible beforehand (Michelin and TripAdvisor) and identified 4 addresses where we made reservations from home. One restaurant we discovered onsite when walking around in the bay of Sant Pol and checking it afterwards against TripAdvisor.

Here you will find my list of recommended restaurants.

1. Candlelight by Romain Fornell, S’Agaro

This restaurant, located in the Hostal de la Gavina, is under the aegis of Romain Fornell, a Michelin starred chef. This means, if I understand this correctly, that he is responsible for the cuisine, but does not stand at the stove himself. As the weather was favorable, we could sit outside in the lovely patio savoring a delicious meal (small menu), although it was a bit too much loaded with seafood for my taste.

Patio of Candlelight

2. La Menta, Palamos

We had a tasty dinner in this small restaurant in the heart of the lively town of Palamos. We dined in a quiet alley while tourists were strolling through the nearby main street. All the dishes we had were well prepared, to our liking and served by friendly staff.

3. Can Roquet, Santa Cristina d’Aro

To reach this restaurant you have to drive to a hilltop hamlet with fine views over the mountains and the valley, very nice. There, a wide selection of well-prepared and sometimes adventurous dishes are served in the beautiful garden. Be advised, it can be rather windy and chilly also in summertime, but the staff provides blankets for this cases.

Restaurant Can Roquet

4. Godard, S’Agaro

We discovered this place serving tapas by chance because my husband thought that it looked good when we were passing. We checked the restaurant out and found out that it recently had moved from Palamos – where it had received rave reviews – to S’Agaro. And it was the highlight of our stay on the Costa Brava! We usually are not great fans of the tapas concept, but there it is perfectly executed.

Restaurant Godard: Aged Beef Ribeye

5. Els Tinars, Llagostera

That was the only Michelin starred restaurant we visited on the Costa Brava. Be aware that this place is not only big, but also very busy. While we liked the food, we were a bit ambivalent about the restaurant’s atmosphere. It made on us the impression of being rather clinical. But I have to admit that I am more fond of smaller, more intimate places.

3 superb walks along the coast

There is an extensive hiking trail stretching all the way from the beginning of the Costa Brava in the south (Blanes) to its end near the border of France. There are 220 km that can be hiked! That – in the whole extent – certainly is not my cup of tea, but it is a tremendous activity to do in sections. The trail mainly leads along the coast passing spectacular cliffs and countless coves and goes by different names: Camino de Ronda, GR-92 (Grand Randonee), or Costa Brava Way.

We did 3 sections that I will introduce in the following (from south to north).

1. Section from Platja Sant Pol to Platja d’Aro

This easy walk leads from the bay near the Hostal de la Gavina along the spectacular coastline to another one where you can find a beautiful beach. You need about 30 minutes for it and in my view it is one of the most beautiful walks I have ever done on a coast. There is a variety of coves and beauty spots, you can experience coastal nature at its best! And all this perfectly blends in with the architectural set of S’Agaro, created by the architect Rafael Maso. You also have countless possibilities to descend to the sea and cool off in the turquoise waters of the Mediterranean.

Camino de Ronda S’Agaro

2. Section from Sant Antoni de Calonge to Platja d’Aro

This is the least easy and longest coastal path of the 3 ones. It takes you past some of the most stunning scenery along the Costa Brava. You pass pine groves, flowering shrubs, secluded coves and pristine beaches. It goes up and down, you climb stairs, go over bridges and walk through a tunnel. Several times you have to cross beaches. Before reaching the town of Platja d’Aro we stopped and returned after crossing the 7th beach – I do not like walking on the beach in sneakers! We needed 40 minutes for one way, I guess you need about 50 minutes to do the whole route.

3. Section from Llafranc to Capella de Palafrugell

This easy walk lasts only 15 minutes, but it is a rewarding thing to do. The coastal path is mainly flat and relatively wide and offers wonderful views of the Mediterranean Sea. You walk above the water, partly also in the shade and can experience the exceptional maritime landscape.

View of Llafranc

6 magnificent medieval and/or fishing villages

There are many picturesque villages in the area. Of all the places visited I especially recommend the following ones (from south to north).

1. Tossa de Mar

This small town lies directly on the sea. Its charming character could be preserved although its growth due to tourism. When going there, you have to go to the walled-in old town. It is the only example of a fortified medieval town still standing on the Costa Brava. Having said this, you have to be aware that you will have to share this experience with a lot of other tourists!
If you want to have lunch there, give Restaurant La Cuina de Can Simon a try, it is a Michelin starred cuisine. I myself was not hungry enough to do this, but I gave it a closer look and I liked what I saw …

Tossa de Mar

2. Castell d’Aro

This is an ancient village built around a medieval castle and a fortified church, about 3 km inland. It is a small and quiet place, you do not need more than 20 minutes to take in the place’s character. But it is does you good to linger for a while there in the calm, historical streets.

3. Tamariu

The little whitewashed resort of Tamariu has an attractive beach, framed by pine-covered hills, a real feast for the eyes! Originally being a fishing village it has developed as a consequence of tourism, but fortunately it was able to retain its charm.

Tamariu

4. Peratallada

I liked this cute medieval village most! It is known for its beautiful old stone buildings and streets. Walking around in the maze of narrow streets that regularly open out into sunny squares makes you feel good. And best of all, there are not that many tourists there – at least when we were in Peratallada.
If you like ice cream – as I do – do not leave this village without tasting the amazing ice cream of Gelat Artesa de Peratallada, what a treat!

Peratallada

5. Pals

Pals is a medieval village, set on a small hill, overlooking the rice fields in its surroundings. It is one of the best preserved historical places on the Costa Brava and because of this also one of the most visited. There are beautiful stone houses to look at and sometimes you can get a glimpse of a flowered courtyard garden behind gates.

6. Cadaques

Nestled between two capes and flanked by mountains the white village is an especially nice sight. With its labyrinth of cobblestoned streets and its white chalked houses Cadaques is not called for nothing the “Pearl of the Costa Brava”. Do not content yourself with strolling along the seaside promenade, but thrust yourself into the maze of steep, narrow streets paved with stones and look for a quiet corner. If you are lucky, you will find one because the beautiful fishing village is overrun by tourists, also because Salvador Dali’s house – now converted into a museum – can be found in the nearby village of Portlligat.

Cadaques

Date of stay: July 2016

The post 5 days on a luxury stay on the Costa Brava, Spain appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Location/facilities

Caro is located in the grey building in the back

Room

Room #21 is situated on the 2nd floor

Food

Restaurant Alma del Temple

Staff

The post Review of Hotel Caro, Valencia, Spain appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Our family chose the Alma for our 3-night stay in Barcelona and was very satisfied with the offered. My husband and I had a Grand Deluxe Room going to the courtyard garden and our son had a Deluxe Room next to us. The rooms were really spacious and well-appointed in a minimalist style. The bed was one of the most comfortable we ever had in a hotel and the walk-in shower was a hit. There is free wifi in the rooms and drinks in the mini-bar (soft drinks) are free.

Also the rest of the hotel, which has a little more than 70 rooms, is kept in a modern, minimal design. We liked it very much but of course it doesn’t appeal to everyone’s taste. It is situated near Passeig Gracia and Plaza Catalunya (shopping district) and only 3 minutes away form a subway station (Diagonal).

Upon arrival we were welcomed by three friendly employees, each of them carrying our three suitcases, and were offered a glass of Cava. We could choose from a regular access to our rooms or from one via fingerprint where we went for the latter and this was really a gadget that facilitates your (hotel) life, you never have to look for your key … 

There is (as mentioned) a nice courtyard garden where you could have something to eat or to drink, a placid place far from the bustle of the city. We had breakfast there and enjoyed it. There was a small, but well-arranged buffet; eggs, hot drinks and freshly squeezed orange juice could be ordered by the staff.



The employees were courteous and helpful without being intrusive. There is also a spa with a nice pool and a somewhat special fitness room (no machines, only ropes hanging from the ceiling).

On balance, the Alma is recommended for demanding travelers appreciating minimalist design and good service, and to top this off, it is reasonably priced.

Date of stay: August 2012

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