Madeira’s offer of high-quality dining spots has developed since my first stay on this Portuguese Island more than ten years ago. At the time, I considered the fine dining scene in Madeira as somewhat limited, with quite a number of tourist traps. This has changed in the meantime. And even the prestigious Michelin guide has awarded three stars since the last decade or so. In addition, the island also saw the appearance of contemporary dining outlets. There are still lots of traditional restaurants, which is a good thing as long as they serve seriously good food. In any case, you will make finds when looking for places to dine in style in Madeira!

While I do not claim to give a full overview of each and every gourmet spot in Madeira, I think that I can give some advice to foodies into (Michelin) fine dining who also have a liking for modern restaurants. To make it easier to find the right restaurants, I divided them in categories. I will start with the top tier places, then continue with modern ones before coming to more traditional dining outlets with a twist.

1. Top tier fine dining in Madeira

If you are on the lookout for the best of the best, the list of fine dining in Madeira is short. It contains only two names. Both of them are at luxury hotels, and this at two neighboring ones.

1.1. Restaurant Il Gallo d’Oro at The Cliff Bay (2-star Michelin)

This is the first restaurant that received a Michelin star in Madeira. That was back in 2009. The second followed in 2017. And it also figures on the list “50 Best Discovery” of the The World’s 50 Best Restaurants. It is located within the five-star The Cliff Bay

and has been run by French chef Benoît Sinthon since 2004.

Il Gallo d’Oro initially used to be an Italian restaurant. When Benoît Sinthon took over, this changed. Thenceforth, a Mediterranean and Iberian inspired cuisine has been on offer using finest local as well as Portuguese and Spanish produce. Before, the chef had gained experience at a number of Michelin starred establishments, especially in France.

When staying at Les Suites at The Cliff Bay, I enjoyed a fabulous dinner at Il Gallo d’Oro. Already the setting is very nice. You pass the wine cellar before coming to the dining-room, which has been recently updated in an elegant style with modern touches. It further impresses with large windows and high ceilings.

In terms of food, there are two menus to choose from, either the Terroir Experience (7 courses 175 €, 10 courses 225 €) or the Top Experience (6 courses 165 €, 7 courses 185 €, 9 courses 215 €, 11 courses 275 €). While the cuisine here truly stands out as delicious and inventive, I found it price wise a bit over the top, in particular for Madeiran standards.

The level of service at Il Gallo d’Oro was generally good. I was warmly welcomed by the maître d’ and was well looked after during the first two thirds of the evening. Towards the end of the meal, the staff’s performance tapered off. The servers became increasingly inattentive. And when I left, there was nobody to say good-bye to me!

Highlights of the Top Experience Menu

Out of the six courses I had, which were all excellent, I have picked three of them.

I start with the third course, Halloween memories. It was a fantastic pumpkin risotto topped with truffles.

Then I would like to showcase the main course, a fruity pigeon creation.

And I have to admit that I have never eaten a better version of this game dish!

Finally the dessert, it was a deconstructed interpretation of a typical sweet treat from Madeira. It consisted of passionfruit, cookie and coffee, and again, it was heavenly!

1.2. Restaurant William at the Reid’s Palace (1-star Michelin)

Here Louis Pestana is at work, a Madeiran-born chef. He has spent his entire career at the Reid’s Palace

– 31 years – , only interrupted by short stays abroad. After getting his own restaurant William in 2015, named after the Reid’s founder, he gained a Michelin star two years later.

At the William, you get modern European cuisine, made with local produce whenever possible. The restaurant’s interiors have a contemporary feel, in sharp contrast to the (traditional) rest of the hotel. It is a spacious room on two levels, with a huge window front.

On my stay – where it was only open on Wednesday – , a five-course menu was on offer (120 €). It included either a fish or meat course as main as well as coffee and petit fours to end the meal. While everything was of great quality, carefully prepared and refined enough, I missed a certain wow factor. Nevertheless, it was a fine meal in a nice ambiance and served by a pleasant staff. And Restaurant William is certainly a gain for fine dining in Madeira.

Highlights of the tasting menu

I liked the tomato and plum gazpacho with smoked eel. Whereas it was not a particularly imaginative dish, it was full of taste and provided a nice textural contrast.

The main course was seared tuna with a red pepper sauce, a traditional molho vilão. It was immaculately done yet not really surprising flavor wise.

What I liked most, was the sweet dish, a lemon verbena creme brûlée. While it was a dessert classic, the add-ons as loquat jam, white chocolate mousse and lime crumble made it an amazing taste combination.

2. Modern fine dining in Madeira

The offer of restaurants serving good food in a contemporary setting is still scarce. Precisely, I can think of three places that fit this description. First, a restaurant at a luxury hotel, second, two sister dining spots in Funchal’s center.

2.1. Avista Restaurant & Lounge (Bib Gourmand Michelin)

This hip dining outlet is located at Les Suites at The Cliff Bay.

On my nine-day stay at the hotel, I had dinner or lunch at this Michelin listed restaurant on seven occasions. So I ate my way through the entire menu! And I liked what I got.

Benoît Sinthon, two-star Michelin chef from Il Gallo d’Oro, oversees the kitchen. Here João Luz is in charge. The Avista is divided in two parts. On the first floor, there is the Mediterranean concept.

Here they serve uncomplicated starter dishes to share

before it is time for meat or fish from the Josper grill.

To end the feast, sample from their excellent ice-cream

or go for their dessert of the day.

On Saturdays and Sundays, you have an additional choice. Then Asian cuisine is available on the restaurant’s second floor.

The range here goes from ceviche to poke, tempura and sushi or sashimi.

I liked Avista’s vibrant ambiance and its seaside location, where you either dine inside a stylish glass cube or on the beautiful terrace. Staff is relaxed yet hospitable. And dining here will not break the bank. If you are a hotel guest, you can book an enhancement for 42 € that allows you to have three courses here.

2.2. Akua and Kampo, two restaurants by Júlio Pereira

These are two vibrant places with a relaxed feel in Funchal’s core where you get modern, well-made dishes. Both are similar in appearance, with a minimalist decor, a counter with a few seats, an open kitchen and products showcased on your way in. Staff is laid-back yet amiable and more than ready to help you with making your choice.

Spanish-born chef Júlio Pereira Kampo came to Madeira after having worked at restaurants in Italy, Spain and Brazil. His wife is Madeiran and he had been looking for a better quality of life once having a family. He started with Kampo, which focuses on meat, end of 2018.

This was followed by Akua, half a year later, which specializes in fish.

My husband and I opted for Akua, the seafood restaurant, and were not disappointed with our experience here.

We began with sourdough bread

and continued with ceviche and cured scabbard fish.

For main, we had creamy carabinieri and seafood rice.

And we ended with a creation made of white chocolate, black olive and passion fruit and coconut “quindim”, a Brasilian coconut pudding.

Everything we had at Akua was great and reasonably priced. And I presume that this is not any different at Kampo, the “meat place”. After all, the chef learned at his father’s butcher’s shop, when he still was a kid!

3. Traditional fine dining in Madeira – with a twist

There is no shortage of traditional dining spots in Madeira. While most of them are more on the rustic side, fewer are in a classical style. I limit myself on the latter as dining in style on this island can only be expected here. On my recent stay, I had dinner at three of them.

3.1. Villa Cipriani (Michelin Plate)

This restaurant belongs to the Reid’s Palace, it is located in a neighboring manor house.

You have here superb views not only of the Atlantic Ocean but also of the hotel’s main building and of Funchal, especially from the terrace.

And you can expect fine dining in Madeira at its best at Villa Cipriani!

I have eaten here twice, on my recent stay and the other time 14 years ago. And both time, I enjoyed an excellent meal. Not without reason, this dining venue is listed in the Michelin guide. The fare here is upscale Italian. It is not a simple trattoria as you might guess from the red–and–white checkered tablecloths. The level of service is high and prices at Villa Cipriani are adequate, although not inexpensive. Hey, but it is the Reid’s!

From the extensive menu, I went for seafood and fish. First I had the crab venetian style,

followed by sea bass risotto,

which were both good choices. The same can be said for the tiramisu.

They know here how to prepare Italian classics with a contemporary twist! And the atmosphere on the lively terrace was pleasant, too.

3.2. Restaurant Armazém do Sal (Michelin Plate)

Armazém do Sal is set in Funchal’s core at a 200-year-old building that once served as a salt warehouse.

The dining room features a stone wall and wooden beam ceilings. This together with the tables draped with white floor–length tablecloths and comfortable chairs makes it an elegant setting.

Traditional food with modern accents is served here, by accommodative and informative staff. And it is the only restaurant in downtown Funchal that is listed in the Michelin guide.

The restaurant caters for foreigners and locals likewise. While the former have their meal in the chic dining room, the latter do so in the vestibule or in the outdoor area. The menu is cleverly structured, neither too large nor too small, with lots of appealing dishes. I started with snapper ceviche, made with tiger’s milk and paired with avocado and fried banana.

For main, I decided for black scabbard fish in combination with lime risotto, banana chutney and vegetables.

And I was delighted with my choices, which were of high quality, perfectly prepared and nicely arranged. And all this came moderately priced, a real find if you look for fine dining in Madeira!

3.3. Franco’s Corner

And to end this blogpost about where to dine in style in Madeira’s capital of Funchal, here a restaurant where you get rather simple yet well-made food in a nice ambiance. And this is about Franco’s Corner. On offer here is a mix of international classics and regional food.

The restaurant is located in a not so frequented area of Funchal’s hotel zone. When you are approaching, you might guess that it is some sort of neighborhood dining venue. But a close look at Franco’s Corner shows that it is a place with a rustic-chic decor

where a very present maître d’ – I assume Franco – takes care of the guests. And he does this in an amiable and hospitable way.

As to food offerings, there is quite a selection of cold starters, soups, fish, meat, vegetarian dishes and desserts at your disposal. Some are more international staples, others are Portuguese specialties. I chose the soup of the day as a starter.

Then I had black scabbard fish breaded with corn bread and almonds, accompanied by vegetables.

While everything was correctly done and good in taste, I found it a bit on the staid side.

Looking back to my other Madeira posts

A travel info post made the start of my mini series about this destination.

This was followed by an overview where to go in Madeira for staying in style, i.e. luxury hotels worth the name. As a next step, I looked into two of those, the Reid’s Palace and Les Suites at The Cliff Bay. And the present blogpost – as you know – was about recommended (Michelin) fine dining in Madeira.

Date of visit: November 2021

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My last post was about the oldest luxury hotel in Madeira, now it is about the latest one, Les Suites at The Cliff Bay. As the name suggests, it is not entirely independent from another hotel, The Cliff Bay. Yet this brings only benefits. Les Suites at The Cliff Bay features almost all the facilities of a typical five-star, despite being boutique. And in addition, you can also use the ones from the mother property. In this regard, its direct sea access is the most important one. All taken together, I think it is the ideal place for staying and dining in style in Madeira!

Before diving into the details about this hotel, here an overview about my other posts on this island in the Atlantic Ocean. I started with all the necessary travel information before listing all the (truly) luxury hotels in Madeira. Then – as mentioned – I looked into the oldest and most traditional resort here, the Reid’s Palace. And my next (and last) post will be about the (Michelin) fine dining scene in Funchal, the island’s capital.

Location of Les Suites at the Cliff Bay Madeira

In case you should have read my post about the Reid’s Palace, Les Suites at The Cliff Bay is just next door of it. And the location is comparable, maybe a tiny little bit less favorable. This is due to the Reid’s better panorama view. But basically, both enjoy the same privileged seafront situation on cliff tops west of Funchal’s core (25 minutes by foot).

History of The Cliff Bay, the mother hotel

Of course Les Suites at The Cliff Bay Madeira has no history to speak of, as it is newly opened (October 2019). But the one of its mother is worth going into, albeit it does not go that back.

The Blandy family, who is one of the groups behind The Cliff Bay, was the former owner of the Reid’s Palace. When Madeira’s grand old dame ran into financial difficulties in 1937, The Blandys took over. They had been the Reid’s proprietor for almost 60 years, before they sold it to the Orient-Express Hotels in 1996. Two years before, they had already opened The Cliff Bay, “the grand young dame”, a tough competitor for the Reid’s.

The Cliff Bay was supposed to challenge the Reid’s Palace as leading luxury hotel on the island. From what I read, it was quite successful in this respect. Although its exteriors reflect the spirits of the 90s, it has immaculate facilities. In 2021, the hotel was refurbished. That included the rooms, reception and the signature restaurant, the two-star Michelin Il Gallo D’Oro. Almost all its 200 rooms face the Atlantic and have both a bath tub and a separate shower. And they feature luxurious furnishings, wood paneling and marble bathrooms.

About the PortoBay Hotels & Resorts

The Cliff Bay and it new addition, Les Suites at The Cliff Bay Madeira, are part of the PortoBay Hotels & Resorts group, which flagship establishment it is. This hotel association has its origins in Madeira. Two local parties control it, the mentioned Blandy family and Ocean Islands. While the former owns the famous Madeira wine company of the same name, the latter is an unknown entity – I did not find anything on the Internet about them.

The hotel group was founded in 2000 and comprises of 15 hotels in Portugal and Brazil. PortoBay Hotels & Resorts offers a competitve customer loyalty program, which has apparently generated 30,000 repeat guests so far. I have checked it out and I am very tempted to make use of it, too.

Ambiance at Les Suites at The Cliff Bay Madeira

I was very impressed by the successful interplay between old and new at Les Suites at The Cliff Bay. Two century-old buildings and a modern new wing come together in perfect harmony. And I liked the ambiance at the hotel exuding understated luxury rather than flaunting wealth.

Les Suites at the Cliff Bay’s contemporary appearance goes side by side with the general atmosphere onsite. This is reflected in the reception area with its uncomplicated approach. The same is true for the trendy restaurant with its relaxed feel. And the lounges are hip, you could encounter them also in places such as Ibiza. Nonetheless, the hotel does not only cater for younger guests. I would think that there is a mixed-age clientele.

Staff/Service

When checking-in at Les Suites at The Cliff Bay Madeira, I was in a somewhat special state. I did this alone as my husband was at a local hospital (he had suffered a medical emergency at our previous hotel in Funchal). Soon after checking into my room, I got a call from customer relations. They let me know that I would get a reduction on the room rate as long as my husband could not join me. Two or three days later, they called again and asked how my husband was doing.

Also the reception staff asked about my husband’s state of health, again and again. There was one lady in particular who showed great sympathy and empathy, which was much appreciated by me.

Service at the restaurant (Avista, see below) was friendly, attentive and smooth. It was provided in the same relaxed manner that we experienced throughout the hotel.

Rooms/Pricing at Les Suites at The Cliff Bay Madeira

As the name says it, there are only suites here, precisely 23 of them, all with sea views. They are modern, spacious and well-appointed. Not only do they have a free minibar with soft drinks, but also a wet bar with coffee machine and microwave (on request). The rooms feature greek marble bathrooms with walk-in showers, large bath tubs and double sinks. On arrival, you are treated with a bottle of wine and fruits – the latter are replenished throughout your stay.

In terms of room categories there are five to choose from. All accommodations except two are in the new modern wing.

1. Suites

There are 6 Suites (60 sqm & 17 sqm balcony, rates from 425 €)), which are located on the second floor. There is a bedroom as well as a large living-room.

2. Suites with Garden

You find here 9 Suites with Garden (60 sqm & 17 sqm patio, rates from 475 €). They are equal to the Suites above, yet on the first floor with a small private garden featuring two sun loungers.

On the second part of our stay – we had to extend it because of my husband’s medical emergency – , we had one of those (priced at 5oo € per day with breakfast, half board 84 € for two persons). It was a great choice with lots of indoor and outdoor space.

It was only a pity, that the outdoor furniture was drenched every morning due to a faulty law sprinkler.

3. Suites Duplex

Les Suites at The Cliff Bay Madeira offers 6 Suites Duplex (66 sqm & 15 sqm, rates from 425 €), which are on the second and third floor. On the lower floor, there is a spacious living-room

with a bathroom including a shower

and the larger of two balconies.

Your own private elevator (or the stairways)

brings you to the upper floor with a sizable bedroom,

a generous bathroom (with bath tub and shower)

and a small balcony.

This was the room category we had booked for our stay here (at a daily rate of 500 €) – and where I resided on my own due to my husband’s being at the hospital. I was much in favor of it because of the expansive space situation – far too much for one person yet pleasant anyway. A slight drawback might be the fact that you have to be quite organized in here, otherwise you have to walk up and down the stairs quite often. If you travel with one kid, this is your preferred choice!

4. Artistic Suite

There is one Artistic Suite (63 sqm & 16 sqm balcony, rates from 400 €), located at one of the historic buildings. It has an open-plan layout with a freestanding bath tub right behind the bed. An enclosed bathroom is part of the room as well, coming with a shower.

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The flower island of Madeira prides itself to be one of the oldest tourist destinations in the world. And the Reid’s Palace, a Belmond Hotel, is definitely the grand old dame here. It has welcomed guests to its luxury retreat for over a century, among them many famous ones. And it really has something to offer. Be it the setting on cliff tops in subtropical gardens overlooking the sea or the traditional appearance celebrating the hotel’s British heritage. For my husband and me it was clear that we wanted to find out how it is staying and dining at the Reid’s on our second visit to Madeira. When we had traveled to this island for the first time, we had already enjoyed dinner here. And now we wanted the whole experience.

If you care for travel information on Madeira, find here everything you have to know when thinking about coming to this island.

For an overview on where to find a truly luxurious hotel in this destination, head here. Now to the essentials of staying and dining in style at the Reid’s Palace in Madeira.

Location of the Reid’s

As mentioned, the Reid’s setting on craggy cliffs above the Atlantic Ocean is breathtaking! The lush sub-tropical gardens that envelope the property are incredibly beautiful. Strolling here and gazing out at the sea was one of the best things I have experienced at this hotel.

The hotel’s location is favorable, in the west from Funchal’s center and in walking distance to it (22 minutes by foot). And you have splendid views of the water, Funchal and the cruise port – if you like the going-ons at the latter.

History/Renovation

As I informed in my post about where to go in Madeira for luxury hotels, the Reid’s was the first upscale accommodation on this island. It was built by the Scotsman William Reid, who got rich in the Madeiran wine trade. He ordered that the ground be strewn with several tons of rich soil. This in order to create the foundation for the lavish sup-tropical gardens he had planned here.

Unfortunately, he did not live to see his hotel opened to guests in 1891. Instead, his two sons continued his work. The Reid’s family was in charge until 1937. Then the Blandy family of Madeiran winemakers took over. After owning it for almost 60 years, the Blandys sold the property to Orient-Express Hotels in 1996. And in 2014, this company changed its name to Belmond Hotels.

Many illustrious guests have passed through the Reid’s doors. To name a few, Winston Churchill, the British statesman, George Bernard Shaw, the Irish writer, Margaret Thatcher, the first British female prime minster, Gregory Peck, the American actor, or “Sissi”, Empress Elisabeth of Austria, were here in the course of years.

The hotel underwent a thorough renovation in 2006. Guest rooms got an update, and some communal spaces received a new design. Furthermore, a spa was added. While the refurbishment apparently brought a brighter feel to the Reid’s, the respect for its heritage and the period furnishings was maintained.

About the Belmond hotel group

Since the acquisition of the iconic Hotel Cipriani in Venice in 1976, Belmond has continued to expand its portofolio of exclusive properties for staying in style. These include the illustrious Venice Simplon-Orient-Express train or the Hotel Splendido in Portofino.

In 2014, the company changed its name from Orient-Express Hotels Limited to Belmond Limited. In 2019, it joined the world’s leading luxury group LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton.

Ambiance at the Reid’s

As already hinted, the Reid’s Palace in Madeira is a traditional hotel, with everything that entails. The hotel’s English heritage is well remembered. This involves the interiors as well as some old British customs, which are kept alive. There is for example the famed afternoon tea on the terrace or the dinner dances complete with preceding dance classes. Having said that, the ambiance at the Reid’s is not stiff. The hotel exudes a somewhat relaxed elegance. At certain times and places on our stay, the atmosphere was even lively, however never (too) loud.

There seems to be quite a number of repeat guests at the Reid’s, often from the United Kingdom, I suppose. Furthermore, I had the impression that much of the clientele come here for lounging poolside or seaside. Already before breakfast, many of the (best) sun loungers were taken, either in person or with a placeholder. And of course, the latter is a no-no!

Staff/Service

While the service at the Reid’s Palace in Madeira is generally good, there were a few hiccups on our stay. Some staff had the most perfect attitude, others less so. Upon arrival, a nice lady at the reception showed us around the premises and pointed out all the important things to us. Before that, there was no doorman when we arrived by rental car at the hotel entrance. Unsure what to do, we got the luggage to the reception ourselves and had to find someone to tell us what to do with the car (you have to park it yourself at another spot). This is not really the way how you receive arriving guests at a luxury hotel!

What I also found special, was the fact that there was always a queue for the breakfast service. Every morning between 8:30 and 9:00 a.m. you had to wait about a quarter of an hour for an available (outdoor) table. That was not the fault of the gracious lady at the reception desk but because of no vacancies!

Unfortunately, my husband had a medical emergency on our stay and had to be hospitalized. Again, some staff reacted in an exemplary manner (the gentleman who stayed with my husband until the ambulance arrived or the lady at the reception desk who hugged me when I showed up alone for breakfast the following morning). Others did not, in particular an older gentleman at the hotel reception who first was reluctant to help me with arrangements for moving to our next hotel. And last but not least, there was no follow-up from the Reid’s as to how my husband was doing after my departure (my husband was still at the hospital at the time).

I am well aware that my stay at the Reid’s was overshadowed by the events around my husband. However, the true service character is revealed in difficult times, isn’t it?

Rooms/Pricing at the Reid’s Palace

158 rooms are at your disposal at the Reid’s Palace in Madeira. They vary in size and shape due to the old structure of the property. Many of them have sea views but pay attention to the fact that not all the ocean-facing ones feature unobscured views of the water. It may by hidden by trees or bushes. In case you put emphasis on having a sea view, I recommend requesting it at the time of booking. Rooms are available as from about 380 € (in low season).

Some accommodations are in the main building, others in the garden wing. All of them are furnished in an old fashioned yet charming way. And I think they were more refreshed and updated than thoroughly renovated in the last decade or so. Quite a few are rather small, especially the ones in the main building. If you care for more space, opt for a Junior Suite as my husband and I did.

Deluxe Junior Suite

You find this room category either in the main building or in the garden wing and the accommodations come with sea resp. garden view. They are spacious (37 sqm) with a sizable (marble) bathroom

and classic in style. Ours was in the garden wing (on the sixth floor) and featured a generous sitting area and a large balcony with great views of the sea, the gardens and the town of Funchal.

While it was not a state-of-the-art room and only received a light-touch renovation, it was very comfortable. My husband and I felt well at ease here. Local pastries, fresh fruits and Madeira wine were at out disposal.

We paid a daily rate of 900 € for the room including a (delicious) breakfast.

Facilities

As mentioned above, there are wonderful sub-tropical botanical gardens on site, which are great for a stroll. Regarding lounging by the water, there are two heated pools, one with seawater, the other with freshwater.

Alternatively, you can descend the stairs to the sea deck. There is no beach but steps leading straight into the ocean.

In addition, you find two tennis courts, a fitness room and a spa on the premises. We did not use the latter two, so I cannot comment on them. They are not located at the hotel buildings but in a separate one in a secluded corner of the gardens. The spa offers five treatment rooms, a couple’s suite, a solarium and a boutique. For kids, there is a children’s club onsite.

In terms of restaurants, there are four of them.

Restaurants at the Reid’s Palace

The signature restaurant is William, a one-star Michelin dining-spot. On our stay, it was only open on Wednesday evening. Here I enjoyed a tasty five-course tasting menu on one evening.

Then there is Ristorante Villa Cipriani, housed in a neighboring building, where we dined on our first day. We already knew the dining-spot from an earlier visit, quite some years ago. Both times we liked what we got, well-made Italian food with a twist, served in a relaxed ambiance.

The Gastrobar resp. the Terrace is the place to go for small bites in the evening. In the afternoon, you get here the traditional afternoon tea, for which you have to reserve well in advance as it is very popular with outside guests. We did not have dinner here, but once had dessert on the terrace. And of course, I had to try out the fabulous afternoon tea, which delivered what it promised!

If you feel like having a light lunch at the Reid’s Palace in Madeira, then head to the Pool Terrace. We did not eat here either but enjoyed a great breakfast every morning on our five-night stay.

Furthermore, there is also the chance to have a meal at certain locations, outdoors or at the historic Dining Room.

In case you should be interested how to dine in style at (Michelin) restaurants in Funchal, there will be a separate post on my blog in the time to come (including my experiences at the Reid’s Michelin-starred Restaurant William and at Ristorante Villa Cipriani).

Overall

Madeira’s grand old dame, the Reid’s Palace, is still one of the best options to stay in style on the island. If you are into old world charm, then the oldest luxury hotel on the flower island is the place to go. However, be prepared to dig deeper into your pockets for staying at the Reid’s than at other comparable accommodations in Madeira. And you have to be aware of the fact that rooms are more on the charming side than cutting edge. Nonetheless, residing here is quite an experience, immersing in a word long gone. And this without the dust and (mostly) without being stiff or stuffy. It is also a good address for gourmets with one of two Michelin starred establishments on the island.

If you want to know more about dining in style in Funchal, my post after next will go into it. First, I will bring another luxury hotel closer to you, Les Suites at The Cliff Bay, just next door of the Reid’s Palace in Madeira. For an overview of (really) upscale accommodations on this island, I have listed them here. In terms of everything you need to know when thinking about traveling to this island, I have put together all the essentials in a blogpost.

Date of stay: November 2021

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In my last post, I informed about Madeira as a travel destination. Now it is the turn of the luxury hotel landscape on this island in the North Atlantic. I will start with a short account of the beginnings of the hotel industry here. In a second step, there will be an overview of recommended luxury hotels in Madeira. Separate blogposts will cover how it is staying and dining in style at two upscale Madeira accommodations (Reid’s Palace and Les Suites at the Cliff Bay). And to close, yet another post will be about where to head for (Michelin) fine dining on the island (inside and outside of hotels).

Development of Madeira’s luxury hotel industry

How it all started

As I outlined in my post about everything you have to know when traveling to Madeira, this island has a long history of tourism. While it started with therapeutic tourism in the 19th century, it soon became popular for its beautiful scenery and its mild, semi-tropical climate. The latter fact even made it to a year-round destination. In contrast to other destinations in the North Atlantic (Canary Islands), it is not your typical place for beach vacations. Due to the lack of sandy beaches and stable weather conditions it is rather ideal for active travel. Having said that, lounging poolside and seaside is an option here, too. After all, there is a pleasant climate all year round, albeit it is sometimes on the capricious side.

Madeira’s first luxury hotel

The first luxury hotel on the island of Madeira was the Reid’s Palace, set on cliff tops in subtropical gardens overlooking the Atlantic Ocean (my review). This legendary luxury hotel was built by the Scotsman William Reid, who made his fortune in the Madeiran wine trade. It was opened in 1891, shortly after his death, by his two sons. Most of its visitors at the time belonged to the wealthy European – and particularly the British – aristocracy.

What was next

On the back of William Reid’s success, several other hotels followed. Yet beds were still limited until the opening of the airport in 1963. Another grand dame here was the Savoy Classic. It was built in 1912 and was especially frequented by British aristocrats, too. While the Reid’s Palace was able to survive, this was not the case for the Savoy Classic. It became a relic of the past and was torn down in 2008.

For a long time, Madeirans relied on elite tourism. This resulted in a high number of four- and five-star establishments until the 1970s. From then on, the number of hotels catering to middle-classes visitor increased. And the island developed to a highly popular tourist destination. In 2019, there were roughly eight million overnight stays by visitors. The most important countries of origin are the United Kingdom, Germany and France. And Madeira largely escaped mass tourism because people come here not primarily for sea, sun and sand.

Current luxury hotel situation in Madeira

When looking for a five-star hotel around Madeira’s capital of Funchal, you are overwhelmed by the choice. There are more than twenty of them. At a closer inspection, it becomes clear that not all of them will meet the requirements of  a demanding clientele.

In my opinion, quite a few of the five-star establishments on the island do not deserve this classification. The ones in question do not look like luxury hotels and they are not priced accordingly either. To be precise, they are neither luxurious enough nor as pricey as you would expect. In fact, you can reside at a five-star here for a bargain rate.

Nevertheless, there is a number of luxury hotels in Madeira which deliver what they promise. And which will please to discerning guests, as well. I will go into them in the section after next. First, I will give an overview of available five-star hotels on the island.

Overview of luxury hotels in Madeira

First, an introductory remark to hotel names in Madeira. Some accommodations come with the byname of quinta. This is a former mansion that has been converted in a boutique hotel. So, it actually is a historic property. And these quintas are often a bit away from the sea, mostly in the hill tops.

Further it is to be noted that many accommodations in Funchal – not only five-star establishments – are located in a special area. It is called hotel zone and is west from Praça do Infante. You find here concrete palaces and high-rise buildings that grow into the sky. The reason for this – not very attractive – building style is the lack of space. Hotels are usually meant to be as close to the sea as possible. And in Madeira the space between the rocky coast and the mountains framing the bay is limited.

Worth mentioning is also the fact that there is not a single international hotel chain present in Madeira. Sheraton and Holiday Inn used to be here in the 1970s, but not for a long time. Instead, you find on the island – among others – the Pestana brand. This is Portugal’s largest hotel group. There are four Pestana five-star accommodations in Madeira. Furthermore, you find several “quinta hotels” in the luxury segment. And the Spanish hotel group Melia is present, as well (one five-star).

Now I come to those luxury hotels in Funchal and surroundings that I personally consider as “good to go”. These are such ones that offer a true five-star experience and come with good reviews, too (at least 4.5 with TripAdvisor and 9.0 with Booking.com).

“Good to go” luxury hotels in and around Funchal

I start with the ones I have already been resp. their sister hotels. This will be followed by a (short) list of other accommodations that I think will also deliver in terms of being “really luxurious”. Please note that this assessment is solely based on my personal opinion. I do not want to rule out the possibility that there are more of them.

1. Reid’s Palace, a Belmond Hotel (stay in 2021)

Madeira’s grand old dame is still one of the best options to stay in style on the island. And it is probably the most expensive one, at least if you go for a reasonably sized room. Come here if you want to immerse in a long gone era of grandeur, history and glamour. You can still get the feeling how it was in the late 1800s! And its location is unrivaled, dramatically perched on a rugged cliff. The sea is close – just walk down the steps to the sea deck – and the same is true for Funchal’s town center (22 minutes by foot).

Find a detailed review of my recent stay here on my blog soon.

2. Les Suites at The Cliff Bay, PortoBay (stay in 2021)

This new addition to The Cliff Bay (see below) was opened in 2019. You find here suites only, all of them spacious and modernly designed. And there are only 23 of them, most of them in the new wing. Two 100-year-old mansions are also part of the property. As to its location, Les Suites at The Cliff Bay is between The Cliff Bay and the Reid’s Palace, on a cliff top and in walking distance to Funchal’s core (25 minutes).

In case you want to know more about this luxury hotel, one of my next blogposts will go into it.

3. The Cliff Bay, Porto Bay (stay in sister hotel 2021)

Although I have not resided at The Cliff Bay itself, I was able to have a close look at it on my recent stay at its sister hotel Les Suites at Cliff Bay. While this of course did not include the guest rooms, this should be no issue as they all got a new look in 2021. Apropos look, the building’s aesthetics might not be state-of-the-art, as its opening dates back to 1994. Yet it persuades with a top setting on a promontory with sea access and a closeness to the town center of Funchal (28 minutes by foot).

There will be no separate hotel review of this hotel as I have not actually stayed here. Nonetheless, you will find some information about it in my post about Les Suites at Cliff Bay, to be published soon on this blog.

4. Quinta da Casa Branca (stay in 2007)

I stayed here back in 2007 on my first trip to Madeira. At the time, my husband and I together with our teenage son had a great time at this hotel, comprised of a new wing along a historic manor house. And to my amazement, it is still considered to be a top address when looking for staying in style on this island.

Quinta da Casa Branca was opened in 1998. In 2002, a new wing was added – our choice for lodging in 2007 – , which made it Madeira’s first design hotel. And apparently, these accommodations have been refurbished recently. The ones in the manor house are kept in an antique style. The hotel’s best asset is its setting in beautiful botanical gardens, set back from the road.

In terms of location, it is in the immediate neighborhood of the Reid’s Palace and Les Suites at The Cliff Bay. In contrast to them, the Quinta da Casa Branca is on the other side of the road, so there is no sea view to speak of here – and no sea access either. To reach Funchal’s downtown, you need about 26 minutes by foot.

5. Other seemingly “good to go” luxury hotels in Madeira

From what I read and heard, the Savoy Hotels & Resorts promise a genuinely luxurious hotel experience, too. As to five-star establishments, there are three of them in Madeira.

First of all, there is the new Savoy Palace that replaced the Savoy Classic (torn down in 2008). It was opened in 2019 – after some hiccups before its erection. It is the island’s largest hotel, shaped like an undulating wave. And this modern accommodation is the first in Madeira that became a member of the prestigious The Leading Hotels of the World. While it is not directly by the sea, it offers ocean views thanks to its hill setting. And it is favorably located near Funchal’s center (16 minutes by foot).

Next there is the Royal Savoy, opened in the early 2000s. You cannot claim that it is an architectural gem. But what it lacks in style, it makes up with its seaside location and its closeness to Funchal’s core (19 minutes by foot). And Royal Savoy’s guest rooms seem to be in a good shape (newly renovated).

Last on the list is the Savoy Saccharum in the coastal town of Calheta in the west of Madeira. This newly built hotel opened in 2015 on the site of a former sugar cane mill – hence the name. It is a large, contemporary construction, well integrated with the surrounding landscape. The hotel is located seaside – separated by a road – , 38 minutes by car from Funchal’s center.

Looking back and forward

My last post was about all the essential information on Madeira when traveling to this island off the western African coast. The current one went into which luxury hotels in Madeira to choose for (truly) staying in style. In the time to come, there will be reviews of two of the best high-end accommodations, the Reid’s Palace (my review) and Les Suites at The Cliff Bay (my review).

And to end this mini-series, I will inform about where to go for (Michelin) fine dining in this “flower paradise”.

Date of stay: November 2021

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Have you ever heard of the flower island of Madeira? If you are European, you most probably have as it is a highly popular travel destination in the area. If you are American, you may not. Until recently, there was no direct flight from the U.S. to this beautiful mountainous island west of Africa. That changed in November last year, when SATA Azores Airlines launched its first-ever nonstop flight from New York City to Funchal, its capital. If you wonder why you should visit Madeira, I have compiled below all the important information that makes this year-round destination so attractive to (active) travelers.

Before I go into Madeira’s features, first a few lines about my motivation to advertise this island.

My relation to Madeira Island

While I usually write about where to stay and dine in style everywhere I go, I make an exception for this place. And that is because I became such a big fan of this island with its incredible diversity of flora. When I first visited Madeira back in spring 2007, I wanted to come back ever since. It took me 14 years to realize my intention. And this time came end of October last year. And again, I was totally awed by this island with its balmy climate and its lovely scenery.

Hence, I decided to highlight its important features before going into my usual writing about where to go for best luxury hotels and (Michelin) fine dining. Just a small spoiler, it does not disappoint in this aspect neither! And to my asthonisment, staying and and dining in style can be quite affordable in Madeira, too!

Now to everything you need to know about this autonomous Portuguese region. I especially address Americans in this context, who now have the chance to travel here by a nonstop eight-hour flight for the first time ever.

Madeira destination information

First, I will point out a few major facts about this island. Second, there will be more specific information on the individual topics.

What is Madeira known for?

• Madeira is a well-known and established travel destination (for Europeans, four-hour flight from many European countries).
• This island is one of the outermost regions of the European Union (in the North Atlantic off the African coast).
• It is a flower island; you find here a plant richness that is one of a kind.
• This place is a mountainous beauty where south and north side are quite different from each other.
• This autonomous Portuguese region is a year-round destination, the weather is always mild.
• While lounging poolside and oceanside is an option, Madeira is not a place for a conventional beach vacation.
• This destination is rather targeted for active visitors; there is a myriad of activities, especially “levada” walking (levadas are irrigation channels with bank side pathways).
• The island is famous for its historic Madeira wine, which is a fortified resp. liqueur wine
• Madeirans are joyful, hospitable and open-minded; and they have a good to excellent command of English

So much to key sentences about Madeira. Next are more details to the respective points.

Where lies Madeira?

Madeira Island is part of the Madeira Archipelago, along with Porto Santo Island as well as the Desertas and Selvagens Islands. It is in the North Atlantic, 900 km (560 mi) from mainland Portugal, 600 km (375 mi) from the Moroccan coast and 450 km (280 mi) north of the Canary Islands. While Madeira belongs to Portugal, it is an autonomous region. And this island is one of the outermost regions of the European Union.

Funchal – that means fennel bay – , on the island’s south side, is Madeira’s capital. It is by far the biggest town here, where roughly half of its quarter million residents live.

What can you expect in terms of nature and landscape in Madeira?

Madeira’s creation is the result of volcanic activity. It is also called a flower pot due to its form. On both sides of the mountainous island center, there are high plateaus. You find here deep gorges that open up into wide valleys on the coast. Sandy beaches are scarce – and if there are, they are with black sand, because of the island’s volcanic origins. Instead you find lots of jagged cliffs.

When the first settlers arrived in the 15th century, everything was densely wooded. That is the reason why they called it Madeira, which means wood. It was prehistoric laurel wood, which has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1999. The settlers cut down this primary laurel wood almost completely. Nowadays only scant leftovers of it remain. Nevertheless, there is still lots of (secondary) tropical greenery. From 700 to 1,550 m (2,300 ft to 5,090 ft) you find subtropical laurel trees, higher up fern and bushes. Two thirds of the island are under nature protection.

In terms of crop plants, the settlers started with sugar cane. This plant was quickly repressed by vineyards (for the famous Madeiran liquor wine). Other plants just as bananas, maracujas, guavas, papayas and mango were also introduced.

Worth a mention in this context might also be the Dragon Tree. It is endemic only to Madeira, the Canary Islands and Cape Verde. While it used to be abundant in Madeira, the tree population was cut down because of its plant sap, the dragon blood. The red sap was used a coloring agent. Nowadays, you find this tree almost exclusively in the island’s botanical gardens.

Why is Madeira called flower island?

Madeira’s volcanic soil is fertile. In addition, there are humid trade winds that cause a relatively high precipitation throughout the year. Both  together with lots of sunshine results in an incredible diversity of flora. I have already gone into the subject of the laurel forest above. Now, it is the turn of flowers.

Most of the flowers you find here are not endemic. In the 18th century, merchants brought exotic plants from all over the globe to Madeira. And this because the island served as a stopover on their way to England. Here they could acclimatize in the mild climate before they were shipped to their final destination. From South Africa stem the birds of paradise or the torch lily. Japan supplied hydrangea

or orchids.

Mexico was the country of origin of dahlia or zinnia.

If you want to have a close look at Madeira’s sea of flowers, visits to the Madeira Botanical Gardens

and the Monte Palace Tropical Gardens are must-do activities.

The former is a 80,937 sqm (20 acres) property with magnificient views of Funchal. They used to be part of the William Reid’s estate (the owner of the famous Reid’s Hotel). These gardens feature more than 2,000 species of exotic plants and is divided in five different parts. The latter is located even higher up above Funchal in Monte and covers a surface of 68,800 sqm (17 acres). Here you find 1,000 plant species plus one of the largest cycad collections in the world. It is well worth a wander around their maze of pathways.

What is known about Madeira’s history of tourism?

Madeira has a long history of tourism. It all began with its important position on the route to colonies and trading points as from the 15th century. Especially British merchants also set up their own trading firms here. First they traded with sugar, then with wine. And a small but powerful group of British residents in Madeira developed.

After this kind of “colonial tourism” there was a shift to “therapeutic tourism” in the 19th century. Madeira was advertised as health resort whose climate was thought to have positive effects on pulmonic diseases. Britons arrived first, then also people from other nationalities, mainly members of the wealthy European aristocracy. While at the beginning most thought of this island essentially as a therapeutic port, this changed soon. More and more people visited Madeira because of the beautiful scenery and/or in order to spend the winter here.

For a long time, Madeira relied on elite tourism. Until the 1970s, there was a high number of four and five star resorts but few others. From the 1980s, the infrastructure of lower-priced lodging was improved. Today, the island is a highly popular tourist destination with roughly eight million overnight stays by visitors (2019). It is also a favored port on the Atlantic cruising routes. Cruise ships are docked at Funchal’s port every day of the week.

Most visitors come from the United Kingdom, Germany and France.

When is the best time to visit Madeira?

Actually, there is no bad time for visiting the subtropical island of Madeira. The weather is mild all year round, with summer highs of 24°C (75°F) and lows of 17°C (63°F). Winter temperatures are 4°C (39°F) lower. In summer, they may climb up to 30° (86°F), especially in Funchal. Then it might get hot and stuffy in Madeira’s capital, so locals escape to the mountains. Also some waterfalls might dry up in this time. In winter, there is more rain. It may also snow at that time at high altitudes. And you might need a sweater or windbreaker there in summer, as well.

Water temperatures are similar to the air temperatures. From July on, there are pleasant temperatures of 20°C (68°F) to 22°C (72°). And this is until October and sometimes longer. You might even be able to swim in the ocean in December and January.

You have to be aware of the fact that Madeira is not your typical beach vacation destination. This is due – as I mentioned above – to the lack of sandy beaches but also to the weather. In contrast to the stable temperatures, it is capricious. You have to know that there is a clear separating line between the island’s north and south. Bad weather mostly comes from the north, often rain clouds get stuck here. And it rains much more here than in the south. Quite often, you can experience the island interiors and the north only in the morning without rain gear. And weather changes occur fast.

Best travel times to visit Madeira are either spring – when plants are in full bloom – or fall – when it is still possible to swim in the ocean. Yet summer might also be favorable if you do not mind possible heat and humidity (in Funchal).

How do you get to Madeira?

Many European airports have direct flights to Madeira Airport (FNC), which is also known as Cristiano Ronaldo Madeira International Airport. If you wonder about this name, Cristiano Ronaldo is Madeira’s most famous citizen, a very known football/soccer player. The flight time to Madeira is about four hours from a great number of European countries.

From Switzerland for example, Edelweiss offers up to three direct flights from Zurich to Madeira, with a flight time of four hours.

As from November of last year, Madeira launched its first-ever nonstop flight to Funchal from New York City’s John F. Kennedy Airport. And this with SATA Azores Airlines in partnership with Inovtravel, a Portuguese tour operator. The flight time is about eight hours. As far as I know, this connection only takes place in the winter half year.

What kind of activities are possible in Madeira?

I already mentioned that lounging poolside

and oceanside

is possible yet should not be the only reason to visit Madeira (it is no typical beach destination and weather may be capricious). However, it is the ideal place if are into active travel.

The range of possible things to do is wide. One of the most favorite activities is walking/hiking.

There is a unique network of narrow irrigation channels known as levadas at your disposal. They were originally dug to transport water from the rainy north to the dryer south. They are still in use, and their banks also serve as pathways for walkers/hikers. The levadas cover almost the whole island. You even find an urban one in Funchal!

Higher up in the mountains you also find marked trails. You can even climb up to the top of Madeira’s highest mountain, the Pico Ruivo at an altitude of 1,862 m (6,108 ft).

Another recommended trail is a walk/hike on the desert like peninsula in Madeira’s uttermost east.

Apart from walking/hiking there is much more to do: trail running, mountain biking, paragliding, surfing, deep-sea fishing, mountaineering, canyoning, dolphins- and whale watching as well as scuba diving. As to the latter, there is a diverse variety of sea life to watch, including the brown moray eel, giant anemone, Atlantic trumpetfish, yellow barracuda, flaming reef lobsters and zebra sea bream. 

And of course, there are numerous sights not to be missed. I will not go into details here, only to name a few in Funchal and nearby: several botanical gardens, historic old town of Funchal,

coastal fishing village of Cāmara De Lobos;

Cabo Girāo Skywalk, Europe’s highest cliff skywalk,

and so one.

How to get around in Madeira?

Madeira’s road network resembles that of my home country, Switzerland. There are lots of tunnels and elevated highways, which allow rapid travel through peaks. This well–developed road network is a consequence of Portugal’s joining the European Community. In such a way, Madeira got access to correspondent development funds. Having said that, there are still small, steep and curvy roads once you come to the mountains.

The best way to get around is by rental car. I recommend opting for a smaller car. And this is because there are still many mountains roads criss-crossing the island. You will not be able to avoid them if you are on your way to certain trailheads.

The bus network is quite dense, especially around Funchal. You can reach a number of sights by bus. However, be aware of the fact that you will not be able to get to all the interesting spots on the island in this manner.

Are there any other interesting facts about Madeira?

First, the island of Madeira is famous for its Madeira wines, which are liqueur resp. fortified wines. They have an alcohol content of 17 to 22% by volume. You drink them not with food – they are not dinner wines – , but either as aperitif or dessert wines. As to their making, wines are heated first before they are carefully cooled down again. Then you let them mature for at least 18 months.

Second, there are numerous celebrations that take place here, for instance flower, organ, philharmonic and – of course – wine festivals. If you are interested in attending a specific one, check out Madeira’s festival calendar.

At last, some lines to the food you encounter in this autonomous Portuguese region. The cuisine here is healthy and rich. Typical dishes are bife de atum com milho frito (tuna with fried corn), filete de espada (scabbard fish),

espetada (meat skewers), pudim de maracuja (passionfruit pudding) or lapas (limpets).

Other staples are bolo de caco (circular flatbread), bolo de mel (sugarcane honey cake)

or broas de mel (molasses cookies).

And if you want to try the local drink, then you have to ask for a poncha. It is made with aguardente de cana (distilled alcohol made from sugar cane juice), honey, sugar and fruit juices (orange, lemon or other).

What is next on my blog about Madeira?

In case this information has made you more curious about this island, you might also be interested in where to stay on a possible visit to Madeira. This will be the topic of my next blogpost. I will start with a brief glance at the beginning of the island’s hotel industry before going into Madeira’s current luxury hotel landscape. A closer look at two high-end accommodations where I stayed on my recent stay will follow (Reid’s Palace and Les Suites at The Cliff Bay).

And to end my mini series about this island, I will give advice where to go for dining in style when visiting Madeira, either at hotel restaurants or outside.

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About our way to travel

but we also like traditional hotels if they keep up with the times. In terms of restaurants, we prefer contemporary cuisine over hearty fare and we favor younger chef with innovative ideas.

About Portugal’s core

Itinerary between Porto & Lisbon

resp. Sintra/Cascais), we had not as much time as we would have wished to explore the actual Centro area.

From place to place (my Google Map)

1. Porto (2 nights at Exmo Hotel)

and one of the oldest one in town. Then – luckily – I came across a brand new hotel, Exmo Hotel,

a few steps from the Douro river, and immediately fell in love with its Penthouse River View Room with unparalleled panoramas of the river, the bridge and the city’s south bank.

The hotel’s few reviews at TripAdvisor and its appearance looked fine, so we did not hesitate and booked us into the mentioned room. And it was a great choice! Much time was spent on the splendid terrace and also the rest of the place knew to persuade.

and liked what we got here – traditional yet innovative Portuguese cuisine.

In addition, we dined at the Michelin listed Restaurant Elemento

where Portuguese food with a twist is cooked exclusively with wood on the grill and in the oven, a feast for the eyes and the stomach (go for a counter seat).

In terms of activities, please take note of my two-day itinerary to walk and explore Porto’s sights, which we actually did in one and a half day, but my husband and I are usually not the type to dwell too long at one spot! If you like Port wine, do not skip the tour at Taylor’s,

it is a great way to learn more about this fortified wine.

2. Douro valley (2 nights at hotel Six Senses Douro Valley in Lamego)

The accommodation in Douro valley was set from the beginning. Ever since I had read an article about the fabulous Six Senses Douro Valley, I wanted to stay here. And indeed, it is a true gem, a beautiful 19^th century manor set on a hill overlooking the vineyards and the Douro river with impeccable service and every luxury imaginable!

in an old wooden warehouse that used to be part of the local railway station where we sampled well-made Portuguese dishes with a twist.

As far as attractions are concerned, the range of activities in the nearer surroundings is limited. I liked the things we saw and did (see my Google Map), but in case you stay here (Six Senses Douro Valley) longer than two nights, you have to drive farther or make use of the hotel’s comprehensive activity offer. On our arrival day, we wanted to do the Daily Wine Tasting but unfortunately it was already full, so we settled for a walk through the vast resort’s grounds.

3. Coimbra & Tomar (1 night at Luz Charming Houses in Fátima)

They surprised us with welcome drinks and snacks in the lounge, a freshly baked muffin in the room and other courtesies.

Also the hotel grounds were quite impressive!

On the way from Douro Valley to Fátima we stopped at Coimbra, the second Portuguese capital (before Lisbon). It is a jewel of a historic town with a university – one of the oldest in the world – at the top of it, which is very worthwhile visiting.

A trip that I would recommend doing, too. Also Óbidos, a fortified town with a castle and surrounded by white painted houses, is a nice place to go, but do not expect that you will be the only one to do so (there will most certainly be masses of tourists).

4. Sintra & Cascais/Estoril (2 nights at hotel Villa Laura in Estoril

For the last two days of our Portugal journey we wanted to stay by the sea (and close to Lisbon’s airport) and therefore opted for Cascais, a former fishing town, later a summer retreat for royalty and Lisbon’s better society and nowadays a buzzing vacation resort.

As I was not that enthusiastic about Cascais’ choice of hotels, I looked further to its quieter sibling of Estoril and found a gem of a hotel, Villa Laura,

another brand new boutique hotel (remember, we already stayed at a brand new boutique hotel in Porto). And we had a great time here, being pampered by the best hotel staff! The hotel, featuring only seven rooms in a high-quality Nordic inspired décor in a beautifully renovated historic building, has a prime location just by the sea and at the start of the boardwalk to Cascais – which I highly recommend doing.

As to Cascais/Estoril’s food scene, I found it a bit underwhelming and was glad to learn that there is a tiny restaurant with excellent fresh handmade pasta, Restaurant Lamassa,

a fairy tale castle

and stunning mansions,

is an absolute must. Although there are enough attractions for two days, most visitors spend only one day here as we did. Check out my Google Map for a one-day itinerary and descriptions/pictures of the sights in Sintra and other things to do and see in the area.

My other Google Maps

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Alfama, oldest district, view of Tagus River

 

What to do in Lisbon

Belém, district by the water

Lisboa Carmo Hotel, Chiado district

Restaurant 100 Maneiras, tasting menus only

Pastel de Nata, famous Portuguese Pastry (from Manteigaria)

Date of stay: March 2016

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