There is no question that the main draw in Stresa is the visit to the Borromean Islands. Each of them has its own distinctive character and all three are only a quick boat ride away from Stresa. Yet there is more to do around this north Italian town not far from Switzerland. Find in the following some of the best activities around Stresa. Its location on Lake Maggiore, Italy’s second largest, contributes to the diversity of attractions. It is about sightseeing yet also about walking. While Stresa itself is not a large town, there are many more nearby worthwhile to be explored. And you can reach them not only by car but also by train and by boat. The latter due to the fact that most towns are situated directly on the lake.

Unfortunately, my husband and I only stayed four nights in Stresa, which was not nearly long enough to cover all the interesting activities here. So, I will not only report on what we did, but also provide a bucket list for more things to do. If you want to know about the town of Stresa, oozing lots of old-word charm, I wrote a short chapter about in my last post. Now to some of the best activities here. I start with walking/hiking and continue with other things to do.

3 of the best walks/hikes around Stresa

Before coming to three easy to moderate walks/hikes around Stresa, first a recommendation for a leisure stroll in town. As most other lakeside towns in Italy, Stresa features a lungolago. This translates into a lakeside promenade. You could start your passeggiata (afternoon stroll) either southeast or northwest from the town center. I lean towards the first, where you begin southeast from the ferry dock. The journey takes you past a couples of cafes and stately turn-of-the-century buildings. Furthermore, the 2 km (1.3 mi)-long lakeside promenade has lots of statues, fountains and flower beds. And always when gazing out on the lake, there is the beautiful Isola Bella too. To get started, make this easy activity as one of your first in Stresa to get your bearings!

Now to some more serious walks/hikes in the Stresa region. I start with the shortest one and end with one that I have not yet done.

1. Out and back around Villa Taranto in Verbania (easy walk/hike)

Link to track on Outdooractive (only one way – back – without botanical garden – Villa Taranto)

Pallanza – Via Vittorio Veneto – Villa Taranto – Via Vittorio Veneto – Pallanza

Duration: about 2 – 3 hours / Length: about  5.8 km (3.6 mi) / Ascent/Descent: less than 100 m (328 ft)

My husband and I wanted to combine the visit of the Villa Taranto botanical garden with a lakeside walk. So, this is basically another lungolago walk (just as the one mentioned above in Stresa) plus a stroll to criss cross Verbania’s beautiful botanical garden.

Tour description

We decided to start the walk in Verbania’s neighboring town, Pallanza. And we found that this place also has a remarkable historic center by the lake.

While the first part of the walk is along a street with moderate traffic, this is not for long. That is because the street quickly turns into some sort of shared bicycle and footpath with almost no cars around. It is along the lake with the one or other pretty turn-of-the-century building and splendid views over the water.

En route, a short stop at Parco di Villa Giulia

is worthwhile before continuing to Villa Taranto,

the actual destination of the the walk. Here, you can easily spend one to two hours to take in the botanical garden’s highlights. It features 7 km (4.3 mi) of paths with thousands of species of trees and flowers from all over the world. The way back to your starting point in Pallanza is the same you came.

2. Loop around Lake Mergozzo in Verbania (easy to moderate walk/hike)

Link to track on Outdooractive

Montorfano – Mergozzo – Montorfano

Duration: 2 – 3 hours / Length: 8 km (5 mi) – Ascent/Descent: 242 m (794 ft)

Lake Mergozzo is a small but charming lake, 15 minutes by car away from Stresa. It actually was the westernmost part of Lake Maggiore, some centuries ago. Nowadays, it is one of Italy’s cleanest lakes and barred to motorboats. You find here also the pretty town of Mergozzo.

Not only has it a lovely lakeside setting, but also a nice historic center. The tour I am going to describe is a circumnavigation of this lake, as I think one of the best activities around Stresa. And the town of Mergozzo, marking the halfway point, merits a visit by itself.

Tour description

The walk starts at a small beach called Spiaggia La Rustica, which is by the way a really nice bathing place.

Right before reaching it, there is a small number of parking spaces. Alternatively, you can leave your car at the nearby train station of Verbania Pallanza (so you can arrive by train too). The trail first leads through a wooded area

before coming to a campground, which you are allowed to traverse. Once done, there is a short stretch along the main road before you reach a trail up into the wood. Alternatively, you also could continue along the road. In the former case, the trail descends to the main road shortly before Mergozzo. Soon, you reach the town’s lungolago (lakeside promenade).

Be sure to check out this lovely town before taking up your way back to your start.

This time, you walk along an ancient mule track, which is mostly cobblestoned.

Shortly before the end of the walk, you come to an asphalt road. Turn left downhill to reach your starting point. You could also proceed uphill to get a look at Montorfano. This is a peaceful settlement with the remarkable Romanesque church of San Giovanni Battista.

Apparently, there is also a worthwhile viewpoint of Lake Maggiore a bit further up, but we missed it.

3. One way from Stresa to Belgirate via the Chestnut Trail (easy to moderate walk/hike)

Link to track on Outdooractive (not done)

Stresa – Villa Pallavicino – Passera – Belgirate (back by boat or train)

Duration: 2 – 3 hours / Length: 7.8 km (4.8 mi) / Ascent/Descent: 283 m (929 ft)

As I have not done this trail yet I cannot share insights from personal experience. But I saw it mentioned often on the internet, so I concluded it must be worthwhile doing. The Chestnut Trail connects Stresa with Belgirate via an ancient mule track, which is further up the hill. Yet it does not require a steep hike up. The trailhead to this path is even marked on Google Map (Inizio Sentiero dei Castagni Stresa). It is close to Parco Pallvicino (see below). Once arrived in Belgirate you can take the boat or the train to return to Stresa. I will not offer a tour description as I have not walked the trail.

After elaborating on walks in the Stresa area, now to less strenuous activities here.

Some of the best activities around Stresa

I start with a sight in the town of Stresa before going into the most popular thing to do in the area, just off the coast of Stresa. Of course, it is about the Borromean Islands.

1. Parco Pallavicino in Stresa

This is about the Villa Pallavicino, located on the outskirts of Stresa towards Belgirate. I have not been here yet, so the information provided is based on “hearsay”. You need about ten minutes by foot from Stresa’s ferry to reach Parco Pallavicino. The property was purchased by the Pallavicino family back in 1862, who transformed the simple dwelling standing here into a splendid neoclassical-style villa. They did this complete with creating a gorgeous park full of diverse plants and statues. In 1952 finally, Marquise Luisa, began to welcome animals from all over the world. And in 1956, the Pallavicino family transformed their estate into a zoo open to the public.

Nowadays, the park is home to over 50 species of animals, including zebras, wallabies or also native deer. In addition, there are a cafe and playground. The villa however is not open to the public. For sure, visiting Parco Pallavicino is one of the best activities in Stresa when traveling with kids.

2. The Borromean Islands, off the coast of Stresa

About the Borromean Islands

A boat trip to the Borromean Islands is a must-do activity when being in Stresa, also known as the “Eden of Italy”! It is about three idyllic islands: Isola Bella, the most notable, Isola Madre, the most peaceful, and Isola dei Pescatori, the busiest.

It is possible to visit all three islands by boat from Stresa’s ferry in one day. In case you can only go to one of them, choose Isola Bella, the masterpiece of the trio.

If you wish to omit one, I would leave out Isola dei Pescatori.

While they say you find here an old fishing village, unchanged by time, my husband and I judge it differently. We encountered mainly an island with only restaurants and souvenir shops.

About the Borromeo family

Now to what is behind the Borromean Islands. Originally, they were home to the aristocratic Borromeo family. They were merchants in San Miniato near Florence around 1300 and became bankers in Milan after 1370. Between the 14th and 17th century they were able to gain control of an “almost state” in the Valdossola/Lake Maggiore area within the Duchy of Milan. This “Borromeo’s State” ended in 1797 with Napoleon Bonaparte’s invasion. However, the family could keep their ample estates, one of them the Borromean Islands. And they still own the majority of them (Bella and Madre).

How to visit the Borromean Islands

When it comes to how to visit the Borromean Islands, I would suggest using Navigazione del Lago Maggiore (NLM), the official Italian state owned company. This because their boats run frequently and this also into the afternoon. Usually, in shoulder and high season, you have to wait not more than half an hour until a boat arrives (on a hop-on hop-off basis). You can buy tickets online or onsite inside the ferry building, either right before your trip or earlier (we bought them the previous day).

My favorite Borromeon Islands, Isola Bella & Isola Madre

Now some short words to Isola Bella and Isola Madre, my two favorites among the Borromean Islands. The former draws more people than the latter. And I already knew if from an earlier visit quite some years ago, undertaken from Ascona/Switzerland, which was quite a trip.

By no doubt, Isola Bella is the chef d’oeuvre of this trio.

There are a palace and a garden (one entrance fee for both) brought together in the form of an imaginary ship (Palazzo Borromeo). Originally, Isola Bella – named after Isabella, countess Borromeo – mostly was an empty rock. Vast quantities of soil were brought in to build a system of ten terraces for the garden. The unfinished building displays paintings and tapestries.

Isola Madre, the largest of the three islands, is also noted for its gardens.

They are kept as an English-style botanic garden with lots of rare plants and exotic flowers.

Yet the (uninhabited) palace is quite a sight too. It is beautifully decorated with 16th to 19th century Italian masterpieces and paintings.

After going into Stresa’s main sights, there is much more to do a bit further away.

3. Verbania with Villa Taranto and Villa Giulia

Verbania is the largest town on the lake and from what I heard – I have not been to the town center – not overrun by tourists.

As all the other lakeside towns on Lake Maggiore, it has its lungolago (lakeside promenade). Plus, there are the botanical garden of Villa Taranto and the country house of Villa Giulia (see above walk No 1). While the former persuades with its 3,000 plants from all over the world (villa is closed to the public), the latter can be visited on the occasion of exhibitions and other events.

4. Town hopping from Stresa

Apart from Verbania there are more towns you should not miss, so town hopping from Stresa is a recommended activity when staying here. And many can be reached both by boat and train. Unfortunately, my husband and I had only time to visit one of these places worthwhile seeing. It is about Sesto Calende,

where we stopped on our transfer from Alba to Stresa. It is right at the bottom of the lake, a pretty town where Lake Maggiore becomes the river Ticino. Not only boasts it an attractive historic center but there are also great lidos and lots of opportunities to walk along the water.

Further up the lake in the direction of Stresa, you come across Arona. It seems to be a quaint medieval town. You find here the bronze statue of Saint Carlo Borromeo (see above section about the Borromeo family), overlooking the town. Saint Carlo was the patriarch of the Borromeo presence in the area.

Right across the lake is Rocca di Angera, the Borromeo family’s imposing fortress. It is an impressive accumulation of five different constructions, built between the 11th and 17 the centuries. It is home of the 12-room Museo della Bambola with the Borromeo family’s collection of dolls. Plus, you can visit the vineyards that surround the fortress.

Another impressive sight is Santa Caterina del Sasso, a monastery located less than half an hour by car north from Rocca di Angera. The three buildings from the 13th and 14th centuries cling spectacularly to the steep rocky precipice. If you come by car, you either climb down more than 200 steps or use the lift (for a fee). When arriving by boat, you have to ascend 80 steps from the ferry quai.

Looking back at my Piedmont mini-series

This very post about what to do around Stresa is the last of seven posts concerning a Piedmont trip that my husband and I recently undertook. Before, I wrote about the best (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants around this town on the Lake Maggiore in the Piedmont’s north. And the first blogpost gave details to the top luxury accommodation in this area close to Switzerland, Boutique Hotel Stresa.

I covered exactly the same three topics for another Piedmont region further south, the wine region around Alba (where to stay and dine in style and what to do). All this was introduced by a 11-day Piedmont itinerary that included not only the area around Alba and Stresa but also two stopovers. One of those was in Caluso, north of Turin, the other in the Swiss west.

Date of stay: July 2024

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While Stresa itself has some dining spots recommended by Michelin, my husband and I did not choose them. Either they appeared too traditional or too touristy to us. Instead we headed to its surroundings on our search for the best fine-dining restaurants in the Stresa area. There was one exception, and this was the restaurant at our hotel, Boutique Hotel Stresa (my review), where we enjoyed two fine dinners. As to Stresa’s vicinity, we found two gourmet spots (both Michelin listed) that we were fond of. The one was an elegant two-star place, the other was a modern, rather casual eatery. What they both had in common were their great setting, hovering on the lake.

Before coming to more details on three of the best (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants around Stresa, some lines about the Piedmont journey my husband and I undertook.

11-day road trip in the Piedmont/Swiss west in style

Our trip had two focuses in the Piedmont, the first in the wine region around Alba in the Langhe, the other in Stresa on Lake Maggiore (see itinerary). These were complemented by two stopovers, one in Caluso north of Turin (Piedmont), the other in the Swiss west (near Lake Geneva). As always when traveling, my husband and I look out for best places for staying and dining in style. And we like to walk everywhere we go.

Regarding to the first main destination near Alba, I published three posts. While the first was about our luxury hotel, the second went into three of the best (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants. The third finally focused on activities in the area. When it comes to Stresa, I cover the same topics. Already on my blog there is a review on the high-end hotel we stayed at (my post). A report on things to do here will end my Piedmont mini-series.

3 of the best (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants around Stresa on the Lake Maggiore

As I mentioned above, one of the best fine-dining places I identified around Stresa is in the town itself. This one will made the start. Then I look at the flagship restaurant in the area, a two-star Michelin spot. A no-frills eatery will end my reporting on the best (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants around Stresa.

1. LeBolle Restaurant at Boutique Hotel Stresa

About

LeBolle is the “hotel restaurant” at Boutique Hotel Stresa. My husband and I had a four-night stay at this splendid property opened in 2023.

As LeBolle Restaurant looked appealing and got good reviews, we booked two dinners here. This in addition to having breakfast here on four days. As to the latter, it was a good experience. Apart from choosing from a well-assorted buffet, you could also order from an à la carte menu. While some more elaborate dishes costed extra, others just as fresh fruit salad, a bowl of wild berries or pancakes were free of charge.

The head chef at LeBolle Restaurant is Andrea Falciola, who seems to be quite experienced when it comes to working in hotel kitchens in the Lake Maggiore region. Among other places of work, he also was head chef at Grand Hotel Dino in Baveno, another five-star hotel in the area.

What to expect at LeBolle Restaurant?

As to dining here, you have three options location wise. Weather permitting, you can dine at the outdoor restaurant. Here you can select either one of the “regular” tables or – depending on availability – one of five bubbles.

I highly recommend the latter as having a meal in such an igloo made of glass and wood is quite a unique experience. If the weather does not cooperate, dining indoors is also nice. An elegant and contemporarily furnished dining-room with an open cuisine awaits you. And this comes complete with generous spacing between tables for more privacy and personal space.

In terms of cuisine, you are in here for upscale Mediterranean food with a modern touch. As usual in Italy, you can opt for dishes in four sections (starters, first courses, second courses and desserts). My husband and I thought that three courses were enough for an average eater. Starters (21 to 26€) included a rabbit terrine, an amberjack ceviche or a tomato millefeuille. First courses (22 to 29€) were all about risotto and pasta. As to the mains (24 to 38€), sea bass, suckling pig or a veggie dish were on offer. And desserts (18€) were varied, from a trio of sorbets to a pineapple steak to a cheesecake and less common creations.

How was it?

On both evenings, we were satisfied with what we had. Both times, we ordered either a pasta dish or a risotto to start the meal. As one would expect in Italy, they know how to do such dishes. I especially liked the Matcha Spaghettoni with Gomashio, Spinach and Shiitake Mushrooms. It was a great combination of western and eastern flavors.

Concerning the mains, they were also good but maybe a tad below the starters regarding taste and creativity. My favorite among them were the sea bass fillet with Moroccan lemon, anchovy saue and roasted eggplant. All the desserts we had (three out of five) were smooth and refined. The White Dream, a yoghurt sponge cake with white chocolate and cherry, was the one one I preferred most.

Andrea Falciola comes across as an accomplished chef, impressing with classics that are modernly interpreted. All the dishes we had came with a shot of innovation. He skillfully let flow Asian and Oriental influences in his western creations. The setting is hard to beat – in particular if you are lucky enough to secure one of those Bubbles! And the staff was hospitable, gracious and very Italian (a bit old school).

2. Restaurant Piccolo Lago in Verbania

About

Restaurant Piccolo Lago is for sure the most renowned gourmet restaurant in Stresa and surroundings. It has been helmed by chef Marco Sacco together with his wife and restaurant manager Raffaella Marchetti since the 1990s. The dining-spot, established in 1974 by the chef’s parents, has held two Michelin stars since 2007. However, in the guide for 2025, Piccolo Lago ist not listed. Apparently, the award has been put on hold, and this because of a first degree conviction for food poisoning (March 2024). An appeal is scheduled for spring 2025, so there are hopes that the sentence might be reversed. Despite this difficult situation, Marco Sacco vowed at the verdict that he would not give up cooking. And he has kept his word so far.

What to expect?

I have to admit that I did not know about this case of food poisoning when dining here in summer 2024. What I noticed at the time that there were not too many guests present. Yet the restaurant is spacious, 60 to 70 guests can be accommodated at this dream-like setting on Lake Mergozzo, about 15 minutes away from Stresa. And we got one of the best tables, right at the end of the over-hanging section that extends over the lake.

Plus, Raffaella Marchetti invited us to have a look around in the kitchen.

In any case, I am confident you are in here for a memorable (and safe) culinary experience. The food poisoning case I mentioned was about raw clams imported from France infected with the norovirus. They came in sealed packets from a long-term supplier.

On offer on our visit was a an eight-course tasting menu for 220€ that could be extended by one of the chef’s signatures courses. It was about his take of spaghetti carbonara, the Carbonara au Koque for 20€.

Alternatively, you could choose from an à la carte menu that consisted of 13 dishes. The latter is a novelty, which was not possible at Piccolo Lago for 20 years. Starters were between 40 and 50€, first courses from 40 to 55€, main courses between 50 and 60€ and desserts costed 25€.

How was it at one of the best fine-dining restaurants around Stresa?

The chef is known as “freshwater chef” thanks to his dedication to the local fish world. When my husband and I dined here, there were not that many fish dishes on the menu. My husband and I picked the only two that were available – we opted for à la carte. We ordered one from each of the mentioned sections (four dishes) and found that was just right in terms of quantity. And there were also snacks and a “post-dessert”.

While my husband started with Mother Earth, a vegetable dish, I had Ingot, trout in combination with raspberries, balsamic and flowers. We continued with the above mentioned Carbonara au Koque, where we got an eggshell with the sauce to dress the pasta at the table. As a main course, my husband chose the local eel done with local tea and rose sorbet. I had the Zucchina Trombetta, a zucchini dish with peas and beans. For desserts, we had Milk & Mint, made of ricotta, buckwheat, curry and coconut, and Chocolate, made with wine, goji, rose and sorbet. What for ingenious creations these all were! And service was of the highest level too.

3. Restaurant Battipalo in Lesa

About

As above, you are here directly on the lake. This time, it is Lake Maggiore and it is about a small town, Lesa. From Stresa, you get here in 10 minutes by car. Alternatively, you can arrive by boat as Battipalo is right next to the ferry dock. The restaurant is actually housed in the former ferry house. A middle-aged husband and wife team has been in charge here, Simona Benetti (chef) and Gabriele Boggio (host), and this since 2009. From what I read, they are both job switchers, she used to run a nearby optician’s shop, and he was in sales. But finally, they followed the call of their hearts and did what they liked best. And they really do it well! She did some internships with highly decorated chefs. He as a wine lover deepened his knowledge in this field. In the course of years, he has developed a knack for excellent niche products, we had a formidable (and reasonably priced) champagne here, a premier cru Vincent Bliard.

What to expect at Restaurant Battipalo?

Restaurant Battipalo is a modern dining spot in a gorgeous setting, hanging litterally over Lake Maggiore.

And there is also a lovely outdoor area.

While it is a relaxed place, you get here high-quality food with creative touches (Michelin listed). On the menu, you find (of course) lots of fish, yet also quite many meat dishes. As usual in Italy, the à la carte menu is divided into four sections. On our visit, each included four dishes, in addition cheese was available in the forth too.

For starters, think of a stuffed courgette flower, a deer tartare or zander tataki (17 to 19€). In terms of pasta and risotto, there was a cheese risotto with strawberries and peas, Roman gnocchi with snail ragu or tagliatelle with ragu (18 to 19€). When it came to mains (24 to 26€), you could choose between two fish dishes (freshwater and vegetable tempura or sturgeon steak) and two meat options (lamp rump or beef sirloin). To end the meal, the choice was between a zabaione,

a parfait or a puff pastry cannon (7 to 9€). Alternatively, there is the opportunity of a 5-course surprise menu for 60€.

How was it?

My husband and I had three courses each and considered it as sufficient for an average eater. In case you should be really hungry, opt for a forth or share an additional course with your diner companion. While my husband opted for pasta (tagliatelle with white ragu, asparagus and morels), I decided on the courgette flower stuffed with hummus and courgette cream. As main, we both had the sturgeon steak paired with asparagus and tzatziki. For dessert we chose a puff pastry cannon filled with slightly spiced cream and local daisies.

Everything we had was immaculately done, tasty and often a bit out of the box. I was pleasantly surprised that the chef was adept at subtle details! And we had a great corner table by the large windows where you feel like floating above the lake.

Also service wise I can only praise the staff’s work.

One more nearby restaurant recommendation

As we have not traveled the Italian Lakes area for the first time, I have one more restaurant recommendation for you. And it is not just another “normal” place but a three-star Michelin dining spot. It is about Villa Crespi on the nearby Lake Orta. You get here from Stresa in about half an hour by car. Find here my post about staying and dining at Villa Crespi. Our stay here dates back to 2021 when the restaurant “only” had two Michelin stars.

And also consider dining at Villa Crespi’s sister property, which is nearby. It is called Laqua by the Lake. I have not been here yet, but the dining spot has just received a Michelin star!

Looking back and forward on my Piedmont mini-series

After presenting a 11-day Piedmont itinerary (including a side trip to the Swiss west), I went into our two main stops here. One was in the wine region around Alba, the other was in Stresa on one of the Italian Lakes, Lake Maggiore, near Switzerland. In both cases, I wrote about where to stay (around Alba/Stresa) and dine (around Alba) in style plus what to do (around Alba). This very post was about where to go as a fine-dining lover in Stresa. And the one about activities in Stresa is yet to appear on my blog.

Date of stay: July 2024

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You may have never heard of Stresa, but it is one the older tourist resorts in Europe. This small, elegant town, embracing Lake Maggiore’s western shore, is part of the Piedmont, in the very north of Italy. Its rise began in the early 20th century when the Simplon Tunnel opened and trains on the London-Paris-Milan line made a stop here. Ever since, tourists flock to Stresa, also because of its most famous sight, the three Borromean Islands. While my husband and I have vacationed in the nearby Swiss Ticino many times, we never made it to this lakeside town. Until recently, when we decided to combine Stresa with a stay in the Piedmont wine region around Alba. And we did so also because news had reached us about a just unveiled hotel, Boutique Hotel Stresa, which is probably the best luxury hotel in town.

Before coming to the newly opened Boutique Hotel Stresa, I want to provide some more information on Stresa.

About Stresa

Most luxury travelers – especially from the U.S. – rather head to Lake Como than to Lake Maggiore. And that is the reason that this region, which is also lovely, has become very pricy. When it comes to Stresa, this is different as it is not so on North American tourists’ radar. And while I secretly hope that this does not change much, I cannot help but promoting Stresa a bit.

To get here from Milan by car or train, you need just over an hour. This makes it an ideal base for exploring Italy’s second-largest lake. Lake Maggiore stretches along the border between Piedmont and Lombardy all the way up into Switzerland. As a side note, when doing this trip you come to Ascona/Switzerland. And you will find quite a few posts on my blog related to this beautiful town. As to Stresa, there is a bunch of things to do in and around this lakeside resort. You will find a post about some of these activities later on my blog.

A few quicks words on Stresa as a place. While it is not large, it has everything you need for a few laid-back days on the lake. There is a promenade bordered by palms and flowerbeds with lots of spots to have a drink.

It evokes the atmosphere of the Belle Époque with lots of luxury villas and opulent hotels lining the lake’s shore. I have already mentioned Stresa’s most famous sight, the Borromean Islands that catch the eye immediately.

And the scenery is dominated by a forest alpine backdrop that fades into the snow-capped peaks on the horizon. Plus, this small town is blessed with a mild climate.

Staying in style at Boutique Hotel Stresa on Lake Maggiore in northern Piedmont

While there already was the one or other luxury hotel in Stresa before Boutique Hotel Stresa, I was not necessarily drawn to its hotellerie. So, I much welcomed the arrival of this high-end lodging option in the lakeside town. After some info about the accommodation’s back story I come to all the other details of interest for (luxury) travelers about Stresa’s best hotel.

Back story Boutique Hotel Stresa

Boutique Hotel Stresa’ story goes back a long time. The construction of the historic Stresiana villa is attributed to the Swiss architect Augusto Guidini (1853 – 1928). The property is known as Casa d’Oro or also as Villa Ostini, as the entrepreneur Ostini took it over in 1940.

After a remarkable three-year long restoration, the villa, transformed to a luxury hotel, opened its doors in August 2023. The building’s celebrated facade remains yet belies the modernity within. 26 spacious, state-of-the art rooms await you here. No comprises were made to create a cutting-edge accommodation yet with the charm of the past.

This new old gem of a hotel belongs to Preferred Hotels & Resorts. When it comes to the ownership structure of Boutique Hotel Stresa, the whole thing remains a bit nebulous. When researching this topic, I came across the name of the Russian entrepreneur Aleksey Fisun. This investor holds a dual passport and has been an Italian citizen resident on the lake for several years. In a more recent publication, I read that Svetlana Fisun (Daughter?) was the hotel owner. She also appears to be a dual citizen and resident in Stresa.

Location of the best luxury hotel in Stresa

The hotel could not be more favorably located in the town of Stresa. It is in the center of this lakeside resort, just adjoining the old town and opposite the promenade. You can reach the Stresa Ferry Terminal in a five-minute walk from here. To get to the train station, you can do this in ten minutes by foot. From the lodging’s roof top restaurant, you have the most stunning views of the lake, the Borromean Islands and the surroundings. And it is situated just between the Villa Ducale, Stresa’s oldest building, and another hotel, the Regina Palace.

Ambiance/Staff

I mentioned it, Boutique Hotel Stresa is a true jewel. It is one of the most beautiful hotels I have stayed in the recent past. Everywhere your eyes fall you find beauty and perfection. The unique allure of the place has been kept, yet at the same time the property got a new contemporary, unpretentious look. The front view of the hotel, where you can only see its old facade, is quite different from its side view. The latter discloses that two (Or three?) historic buildings have been connected by a contemporary modern building. Old and new are united in harmony.

The employees’ attitude is exemplary. We encountered an exceptional service from every member of staff, and this all the time. I was astonished to notice that even the bellboy, a young male, was articulate and fluent in English. He said and did all the right things at the appropriate time. At breakfast, we were pampered by the server, an older male. I think he also did so as there were not that many guests around on our stay.

Rooms/Pricing at Boutique Hotel Stresa

Room categories

As I already let you know, everything is top notch here. And this is true for the guest rooms as well, which offer the most modern equipment and exceptional comfort. There are three main categories: Garden, Lake and Peacock, with ascending value.  As to the Garden category, you can choose among Petit Garden (30 sqm), Garden Suite and Grand Suite Garden (both 45 sqm). It remains unclear to me what the difference is between the latter two. We had the Grand Suite Garden. While we had a large balcony, I noticed that other Garden Rooms did not. All the rooms of this category overlook the garden of the Villa Ducale. This is a good thing as this is the quieter side.

The next higher main category is the Lake. Here you can go either for the Suite Lago (45 sqm), the Grand Suite Lago (45 sqm) or the Corner Suite (60 sqm). Again, I cannot figure out what distinguishes the Grand Suite Lago from the Suite Lago. As far as the orientation of the rooms is concerned, I assume that they predominantly face the street that turns into the main road (actually the side view of the property). While you enjoy a lake view from here, you also have to consider the somewhat busy street.

The highest main category is the Peacock, with five different rooms ranging from 65 sqm to 155 sqm. And I presume all of them have panoramic lake views.

Pricing at the best luxury hotel in Stresa

I checked out the room pricing (best available with breakfast) for the beginning of August 2025 (high season), and this during the week. As to the Garden category, prices vary from 591€ to 900€. As far as the Lake is concerned, rates are between 810 and 1,264€. And the least expensive Peacock Suite starts at 1,446€.

Now to the room we had – as you know by now, it is about a Grand Suite Garden.

Grand Suite Garden

Visiting Stresa in early July over the weekend, we considered the pricing for our generously sized Grand Suite Garden (870€) as appropriate. I fell heavily in love with the gorgeously sleek room kept in blue, brown and light beige. There was not only a seating area but also a high table and chairs.

Our Grand Suite Garden was in the front section of the three-part building. This even allowed us to catch sight of the lake from our spacious covered balcony.

Also the bathroom embraced contemporary style in design. It was huge and kept in a dark grey.

The one thing not that ideal was the room being a bit on the dark side (three windows instead of two would have been better, but of course it is a historic building).

One reason for us to choose this room category was the option to have two single beds instead of one double bed. Unfortunately, this did not work out, so we had to make do with a king size bed instead. Yet, it was comfortable, and they arranged for two covers (which were too wide). Another issue was that the air conditioning was not set cool enough. We had to ask several times for an adjustment – apparently the temperature returned to the initial position every time when they cleaned the room. In addition, the fridge was not cold enough either. Plus, they did not refill the drinks in it every day (which were included in the room rate). Said that, these minor issues did not spoil our stay here, which was really great.

Facilities at the best luxury hotel in Stresa

Apart from the restaurants, into which I go further below, Boutique Hotel Stresa features following amenities. On the middle building’s roof you find a sun deck complete with loungers, tables and chairs, a small pool with jacuzzi massage and a bar service. And you have the most fabulous lake view from here.

In terms of relaxation and health, there are four private spa suites on site, each with a unique concept. For example, the Natura Suite transports you in some kind of alpine barn. And as these accommodation also have beds, you are able to stay here overnight.

Restaurants at Boutique Hotel Stresa

On the premises of Boutique Hotel Stresa, two restaurants are at your disposal. One is the fine-dining spot (LeBolle Restaurant), which also is the breakfast place. The other is the bar (Rooftop Perlage), where you can have drinks and light meals.

1. LeBolle Restaurant, the fine-dining spot

The main eatery at Boutique Hotel Stresa is LeBolle Restaurant. Le Bolle translates in English The Bubbles. There are five of these igloos made of glass and wood in the garden overlooking the lake. They definitely are the flagship sign of this dining spot and regularly arouse the curiosity of passers-by.

But it is not only about appearance at LeBolle but also about substance. The chef, Andrea Falciola, is knowledgeable in his field. At this high-end dining spot, they serve Mediterranean food with a twist made with quality produce. And they do this not only in The Bubbles of course but also in the modernly designed interiors

and in an outdoor area. My husband and I have dined here twice. All the details about how it was you will find in a separate post about best (Michelin) fine dining in Stresa later on my blog.

Also the breakfast is served at LeBolle Restaurant, located on the hotel’s ground floor. There is a well-assorted buffet plus an à la carte menu. From the latter, you can order some extra items just as fresh fruit salad, hot egg dishes or pancakes, and this with no additional costs. There is a section on the menu with selections just as egg Benedicts or smoked salmon, for which you have to pay extra. We liked what we got here and enjoyed our breakfast on our four days at this hotel.

2. Rooftop Perlage, the bar

The Rooftop Bar/Restaurant is the place to go for drinks and lake views. From here you really have a fabulous vista of Lake Maggiore and the Borromean Islands. Yet the panorama includes parts of Stresa too, also the neighboring Villa Ducale or Regina Palace Hotel. When staying at Boutique Hotel Stresa or at a nearby other place, do not miss the chance to benefit from these great views!

In terms of spending, drink prices are high. Cocktails cost 20€, gin drinks between 20 and 30€ and tonic waters 8€. Yet drinks are accompanied by things to nibble and a snack of the day. Service is knowledgeable and friendly. When it comes to food, there is quite a choice in the four sections of starters, first courses, second courses and desserts. In addition, you find here also a menu with typical aperitif snacks. Plus, they have a truly special selection of champagne here, although I have never seen a correspondent menu.

Overall on the best luxury hotel in Stresa

The new high-end Boutique Hotel Stresa on the Lake Maggiore in Italy’s north, close to Switzerland, hits many if not all the passion points for luxury travelers. They have it all at this upscale lodging: top location, immaculate premises, exquisite fine-dining, excellent staff and also that certain something. With the latter, I address The Bubbles in the garden, where you can have your meal when dining at their LeBolle Restaurant. These igloos are really an eye catcher. Yet at Boutique Hotel Stresa it is more than only about style. They deliver also in the area of content. What they do, they do it right at the best luxury hotel in Stresa.

And while Stresa is not Como or any other trendy place in Italy, it is a pleasant, pretty spot with lots of things do in town and surroundings. Find out about some of the activities in a post to appear on my blog soon. Furthermore, I will go into where to head as lovers of (Michelin) fine dining in and around Stresa.

Looking back and forward on my Piedmont reporting

In the paragraph before, I let you know what will come as to more content about Stresa. Now to what was before. The start of my reporting made a 11-day itinerary outlining three stops in the Piedmont and one in western Switzerland. Then I published three posts about the first main destination of the voyage, a stay near Alba in the typical Piedmont wine region. They included a review of the luxury hotel my husband and I stayed, three of the best (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants and things to do in the area.

With this very post, we have arrived at the second main destination, Stresa on the Lake Maggiore in the northern Piedmont. You have learnt more about probably the best luxury hotel in Stresa. Next is all about dining in style in and around this lakeside town and the final blogpost will inform on activities in the area.

Date of stay: July 2024

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The Langhe region around Alba is one of the Piedmont’s most beautiful areas. It is worthwhile going to not only when being into wine and truffles but also when you like beautiful landscapes. Think in this context of delicate rolling hills covered with vineyards and dotted with picturesque villages. There is a bunch of activities to do in the Langhe. This region is ideal if you want to do some walking in the vines and/or village hopping. Some of the most stunning small towns in Italy can be found here. And if you plan it wisely, you even can combine these two things. But be advised, some walking up and down is almost always part of the program. Yet I think that I have found some really great tours that are not too strenuous. Truth to be told, I myself am not exactly a “mountain goat”.

Before I go into the activities, a few lines to the Langhe.

Langhe, Piedmont’s most stunning wine region

Chances are good that you know the Piedmont, one of 20 regions in Italy. It is located in the country’s northwest and is famous for its quality wine. As to the Langhe, it is one of the Piedmont’s sub regions around Alba. You find here a hilly landscape full of vineyards, situated a bit more to the Piedmont’s southwest.

The Langhe has been on the UNESCO’s World Heritage List since 2014. This together with Roero and Monferrato and because of their cultural landscape. They got this honor owing to their wine growing tradition, which also has an aesthetic value. That makes the Langhe such a splendid place to go for travelers who appreciate this kind of rural settings. And they grow some of the best Italy’s here, think in this context of Barolo or Barbaresco.

My husband and I have been to the Langhe twice in three years. While we lodged in Alba’s east last time, we chose its south instead on our recent stay. And both areas are gorgeous, although the latter even more so, in my opinion. Maybe also check out my post at the time about things to do more in Alba’s east. I informed on two easy walks, two stunning villages and a memorable truffle hunt. One of the villages I wrote about at this point of time – Monforte d’Alba – will also be a topic in the current post.

In terms of activities in the Langhe, I start with three easy to moderate walks before going into some of the most beautiful villages in the area.

3 of the best loop walks/hikes in the Langhe

I already mentioned it, you cannot entirely avoid going up and down when walking in the Langhe. But after some research, I think I have found three walks/hikes that are doable for persons with a decent physical fitness. I will indicate the difficulty level  of all tours. And as I have tracked all of them on Outdooractive, you can navigate them on this hiking app with my correspondent links.

1. Loop around Monforte d’Alba (moderate to difficult walk/hike)

Link to track on Outdooractive

Monforte d’Alba – Serralunga d’Alba – Perno – Monforte d’Alba

Duration: 3 – 4 hours / Length: 13.9 km (8.6 mi) / Ascent/Descent: 534 m (1,752 ft)

This is my favorite among all the tours I have ever done in the Langhe. This because of all the beautiful views you have most of the time when doing this activity. In addition, Serralunga d’Alba is a lovely village well worth exploring (see below under 5 of the most beautiful villages in the Langhe). Plus, we were practically on our own the whole tour (no other hikers around).

Tour description

The walk starts in Monforte d’Alba, and this in the town center. From here you walk to the top of the old town, around Castello di Monforte – Palazzo Scarampi. This village is one of Italy’s most beautiful ones, according to I Borghi più belli d’Italy (The most beautiful Villages in Italy). If you want to know more about it, I have provided some information in an earlier post. And I also included this place in the chapter about beautiful villages further below.

Not long after leaving the village, you already can enjoy beautiful views of vineyards. And far away, you catch sight of the first village you are going to reach, Serralunga d’Alba.

But first you have to manage the first of two descents – it goes down 300 m (984 ft). And try not to think of the fact that you have to climb up this difference in altitude later on.

Before you ascend towards Serralunga d’Alba, you cross a hazelnut orchard.

And once arrived in this village, make a rest and explore this stunning place.

Then continue in the direction of Perno.

In case you have enough force and time left for some more village discovering, go ahead – we did not. Instead we tackled the ascent towards Monforte d’Alba. It is less steep than the ascent at the start, yet you need some more time to do it.

2. Loop around Barolo (easy walk)

Link to track on Outdooractive

Duration: 1¾ – 2  hours / Length: 6.9 km (4.3 mi) / Ascent/Descent: 202 m (656 ft)

After exploring the gorgeous village of Barolo in the Langhe, an easy walk in its vineyards is a nice activity to do as well.

Tour description

Barolo also belongs to the above mentioned most beautiful villages in Italy. So, you absolutely should roam about it before taking off to your tour.

Right in the town center you follow a street that brings you to the village’s vineyards. The first part of the trail is a bit above the main road, yet most time leading through the vineyards. While you can hear the traffic noise, it was not too bad on our walk (not too busy).

Roughly half way there, you cross the main road. Now you are in for the more remote part of the trail, leading back to Barolo. Shortly before reaching this village again, there is quite a steep descent towards the town center.

3. Loop around Treiso (moderate walk)

Link to track on Outdooractive

Duration: 2 – 2½ hours / Length: 7.3 km (4.5 mi) / Ascent/Descent: 308m (1,011 ft)

This walk is not in Alba’s south as all the other activities/places I am going into this post. Instead it is on the east side of this regional capital. While it is also a Langhe wine region, it is a bit less hilly and less memorable as the one from the before mentioned walks.

Tour description

You begin the walk in Treiso’s town center.

First, you descend through a vineyard and then along a creek in a forested area. Before coming to a hamlet, you move towards the opposite hill where you make an ascent.

Once done, you continue along the ridge back in the direction of Treiso.

Just before reaching the village again, you can either follow the vineyard trail or the main road (Via Alba). We did the former. While this was pleasant at the beginning, shortly before Treiso we had to climb a very steep “path” (not really one) through the vineyards. And this was rather a pain to do. So, think twice before following our example!

Now it is about village hopping in Alba’s south.

6 of the most beautiful villages in the Langhe

I have already mentioned the I Borghi più belli di’Italia, the association of the most beautiful villages in Italy. It was founded in 2002 within the ANCI Tourism Council. This with the aim of promoting the country’s great heritage in terms of history, art, culture and landscapes. And this as far as villages are concerned. At the moment, the Piedmont has 18 villages that made it into this list.

So far in this post, I brought up two such villages. On the one hand, this was Monforte d’Alba (for more details refer to a past post on the Langhe). On the other hand, I named Barolo. In the post I just mentioned I went into a third one too, Neive (here are the specifics about it). Yet, on our trip we encountered three more gorgeous small towns in the Langhe which are not part of this association. I previously wrote about Serralunga d’Alba. And I have two more, La Morra and Montelupo Albese. So, there are many activities related to village hopping in the Langhe.

Now to the villages in question. All of them are in Alba’s south with the exception of Neive.

1. Monforte d’Alba (part of I Borghi più belli di’Italia)

As you have learnt by now, I previously went into Monforte d’Alba (my post). So, find here only one short remark to it. Do no miss walking up from the main piazza (Umberto I) to the old town’s highest point, the Piazza Antica Chiesa. This is really a rewarding thing to do!

2. Barolo (part of I Borghi più belli di’Italia)

When getting to this medieval village on a cloudy day in early summer, my husband and I thought that it was astonishingly uncrowded. Make your way along Barolo’s cobblestone lanes toward the ancient castle. It used to be a defensive fortress and later on a country home for the wealthy Falletti family. Today it houses the Barolo Wine Museum. Maybe also visit an enoteca for a wine tasting. After all, the Barolo wine is the most esteemed of all Italian wines!

3. Neive (part of I Borghi più belli di’Italia)

Neive is in Alba’s northeast, about 15 minutes by car north of Treiso (see above, loop No. 3). As this village was the topic of another post just as Monforte d’Alba, only one small note on it. The best thing to do here is to walk from its south gate (San Rocco) to the one in the north (San Sebastiano).

4. Serralunga d’Alba

Serralunga d’Alba, which we discovered while doing above described walk No. 1, is a sleepy village. You find here medieval streets extending from a slim brick castle with tall watchtowers. It was never used for military purposes but instead was owned by the Falletti family – as the one in Barolo. You can visit it on certain days, check it out in advance in case you are interested (Castello di Serralunga d’Alba).

Otherwise just wander the streets, drink in the fantastic views you have from here of the surrounding landscape and maybe taste some wine.

5. La Morra

La Morra is the place to go to get an overview of the region. And this is because this village is atop a ridge. From Piazza Castello, the town’s main square, you have truly fabulous views of the area. The panorama stretches from vineyard-striped valleys to faraway villages and – weather permitting – snow-capped Alps.

Yet also stroll along the streets of the pretty old town. And of course, a visit to a wine shop is also possible here.

6. Montelupo Albese

This handsome village is far off the beaten tourist paths. And my husband and I only landed here because of its proximity to the hotel we stayed (Hotel Casa di Langa). It is something like the little sister of La Morra as it is also perched on a crest. Its views are also impressive, yet not that expansive and not of the known wine villages but of Alba.

What I liked here was the quietude of this village, which probably does not draw many visitors. All the better, so you have the picturesque medieval streets to yourself. An interesting fact here is also the project “Lupus in Fabula”. As the name of the village means wolf mountain, Montelupo Albese has invited artists from all over Italy to tell all the fairy tales about wolves through murals.

Looking back and forward

My mini series about a Piedmont journey has two parts. One is about the Langhe wine region around Alba, the second concerns Stresa on the Lake Maggiore, in the north near Switzerland. In this last post of part one informed about things to do near Alba. Before, I already went into (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants and a luxury hotel in the area. The start of my Piemont reporting made a 11-day itinerary of the whole trip – three stops in the Piedmont and one in the Swiss west.

In the time to come, you will find the same for part two of the voyage in Stresa (best luxury hotel, best fine-dining restaurants and what to do). You will learn about where to stay and dine in style as well as what to do in and around this town on the Lake Maggiore, especially if you like walking.

Date of stay: July 2024

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The Langhe in Alba’s surroundings has some of the best (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants in the whole Piedmont. This region, located rather in the Piedmont’s south, really is a heaven for travelers being into culinary highlights. In addition, it features not only extraordinarily beautiful hills full of vineyards but also some of the best wines in Italy. Think in this context of Barolo or Barbaresco. But back to the foodies’ delights. My husband and I stayed recently in the Langhe, and this the second time in three years. This time we lodged in Alba’s south, and this is also where we had dinner at gourmet restaurants on four occasions. Find out in the following about three of the best (Michelin) fine-dining spots in the Piedmont’s Langhe region.

Before going into this topic, first a few lines to the journey my husband and I have undertaken in the Piedmont/Swiss west.

11-day road trip in the Piedmont/Swiss west in style

The trip led us first to the “typical” Piedmont meaning rolling hills covered with vineyards. This time we chose a luxury hotel south of Alba, Casa di Langa (my post). On the way to this first main destination, we made a stopover in Caluso, in the north of the Piedmont capital of Turin. The second focus of our journey – after leaving the Langhe – was the Lake Maggiore area further north. Here we stayed in Stresa, at Boutique Hotel Stresa (my post), another high end accommodation. Before going home, we made one last short stop. This was in the Swiss west in the Vallée de Joux, close to Lake Geneva.

Always when traveling, my husband and I are on the lookout for hotels that allow staying in style. Yet we do not lose sight of the price aspect. We do not pay ridiculously high rates. The same is true for restaurants. We are foodies and value dining at upscale restaurants. In order to find the “right” places, we of course also study restaurant guides. Here we especially rely on Michelin.

Now to some of the best fine-dining restaurants in the Langhe region.

3 of the best (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants near Alba/Langhe

On our Piedmont stay around Alba my husband and I had dinner at four foodie places. And we identified three of the best fine-dining addresses in the Langhe for fine-dining lovers. With regard to the fourth spot, it did not meet our high expectations. I will not go into it but you can find its name in our trip’s itinerary made with Google My Map. As to the other three restaurants near Alba, they certainly belong to the best in this area. I will list them in descending order of my fondness.

1. Restaurant Borgo Sant’Anna in Monforte d’Alba

About

Restaurant Borgo Sant’Anna is one of about a dozen of Michelin one-star restaurants in the Langhe wine region. It is helmed by Pasquale Laera, a 36 year-old chef from Apulia, in Italy’s south. Yet he has been working in the Piedmont for many years and knows the rules and codes of the regional cuisine. He was sous-chef of Antonino Cannavacciuolo, the Michelin three-star chef at Villa Crespi Lake Orta – see here my post about dining there. Later on, he was in charge at Restaurant La Rei at the Boscareto Resort where he gained a Michelin star in 2014. Here he worked together with Fabio Mirici Cappa, host and sommelier.

In 2019, the two of them started a new chapter at Borgo Sant’Anna in Monforte d’Alba. One year later, the dining spot was awarded a Michelin star here as well. Pasquale Laera’s cuisine revisits Italian respectively Piedmontese traditions yet from a new perspective and with modern techniques. So, something new is created.

What to expect at Borgo Sant’Anna?

Already the setting has a wow factor. When approaching the restaurant, remotely located in the hills of Monforte d’Alba, you are impressed. Because Borgo Sant’Anna is housed in a manorlike building amid vineyards!

And the dining room is beautiful, kept in a contemporary style with lots of wood and large picture windows. So, you can gaze at the stunning surroundings – hills full of vines and the one or other distant building or village.

And of course, you have the same views from the splendid outdoor area.

In a separate yet connected building you find the open kitchen. It overlooks a “table room” as Laera calls it. There is space for eight seats, and a special menu is served here.

On offer at Borgo Sant’Anna are three menus: Langhe and History for 90€, Passions and Origins for 100€ and Hunting Solo for 155€. In addition, you can choose from an à la carte menu. My husband and I opted for the least expensive choice. Its components suited as just right. And you cannot go for the whole shebang all the time when dining at high-end restaurants almost every day of your trip. In hindsight, if I had known how good it was, I would probably have decided otherwise.

How was it at one of the best fine-dining restaurants in the Langhe?

One says first impressions are the most powerful. Here it was not the case because the welcome was not the warmest we ever had! We were one or two minutes early and the restaurant had just opened at the time of our reservation. And the table we got – we were the first guests in the dining room – was not the least good but certainly not one of the best. Anyway, my husband and I do not usually make hasty judgements. And everything what followed at Borgo Sant’Anna was top notch.

We were already wowed when the snacks arrived. After several decades of dining at high-end restaurant we have seen a lot in this respect, yet what we had here beat many other higher-ranking establishments! And what followed – we had four courses – , was nothing short of amazing. Be it the trout, the ravioli or the Royal Rooster.

And the chef’s take on one of my favorite desserts, Zuppa Inglese, was genial! Plus, the petit fours were the perfect way to end this fabulous meal!

After a somewhat not ideal start here, the staff knew how to win also demanding guests over! Especially the sommelier was not only accommodative yet also very knowledgeable – he well advised my husband on what Barolo wine to order. And when leaving, we met the chef who shook hands with us and inquired about our evening. You know, the second most important impressions are the last ones!

2. Restaurant Uri Sapori Condivisi Roddino

About one of the best fine-dining spots in the Langhe

We came across this restaurant by chance, mostly because it was very close to the hotel we stayed (Hotel Casa Langa). Uri Sapori Condivisi is not included – to our astonishment – in the Michelin guide. And this is not because it is too new to be featured (opened in March 2018). A young couple is in charge of this dining spot. It is about chef Seul Ki Kim (born in 1991) from Seoul in South Korea and chef/host Frederica Vaira (born in 1994), daughter of Piedmontese farmers. In 2015, they both worked at the kitchen of chef Massimo Camia’s restaurant – which is nearby and has a Michelin star. Later, Kim moved on to work for three-star Michelin chef Antonino Cannavacciuolo (just like the chef of above restaurant, Borgo Sant’Anna). After some more stages, the newlyweds opened – as already mentioned – their own restaurant, Uri Sapori Condivisi.

As I understand, the slightly cumbersome name of Uri Sapori Condivisi means following: in Korean Uri is We or Our. It expresses closeness or intimacy. And Sapori Condivisi is Italian for Shared Flavors. I think that means that South Korean cuisine meets the Piedmontese at this place. And a look at the menu confirms this.

What to expect at Uri Sapori Condivisi?

The restaurant is not in the town of Roddino but a few minutes by car away in the eastern direction. Here in a hamlet off the Strada Provinciale 57 it is in an uphill location. And this with a stunning view of the surrounding landscape full of rolling hills covered with vineyards.

When getting here, you even have to make the last part of the way on a dirt road.

Once arrived, you enter a room that somewhat feels cozy. It is neither rustic nor modern but somewhere in the middle. Yet it oozes a comfortable atmosphere. In case you are lucky with the weather, you can head straight to the outdoor area.

From here you have this fantastic view I described above. And if you lower your gaze, you can catch glimpses of their vegetable garden. The couple calls this place their restaurant’s heart. This because it is the spot where their cultures blend best.

When dining here, you can choose between three different menus, all of them with four courses. The Menu Uri costs 54.50€, the Menu New Flavors 70.50€ and the Mat-Uri Menu (a path dedicated to their garden) 60.50€.

How was it?

The dinner truly was something out of the ordinary, skillfully incorporating Italian and Korean influences. And this in such a way that a harmonious blend was created. My husband and I opted for the New Flavors menu. Here they served us – after some delightful snacks – raw char with Korean seaweed sauce. This was followed by a tasty grilled sweetbread with Korean sauce and fermented mandarin puree. Next was one of their signature dishes, Spaghetti dedicated to Federica. And they were wonderful, cooked in an extraction of roasted peppers. The main was an express cooked pigeon.

And before coming to the dessert there was the opportunity to order Kimchi as further intermediate course, what we did and liked. Dessert consisted of creamy vanilla pudding in combination with raspberry sauce, yoghurt, tonka bean and almond shortbread, delicious!

And some petit fours made the end of a fabulous meal.

Not only was the food convincing, but all the other aspects were too. The ambiance was relaxed yet not too much. So, it was still a refined dining experience without being uptight. It felt balanced and accompanied by great hospitality. And price wise it was really good value for money.

3. Restaurant Fàula at Hotel Casa di Langa

About

Fàula is the “hotel restaurant” at Hotel Casa di Langa. My husband and I spent four nights at this beautiful establishment opened in 2021.

And of course, we also tried out the dining spot on the premises, not only for breakfast but also for a dinner. While we found the breakfast nothing special, this was not the case when it came to dinner. But I do not want to anticipate (see under the “How was it”-section).

Fàula is listed in the Michelin guide and offers a modern Piedmontese cuisine. It is helmed by the young chef Daniel Zeilinga (born 1989). He is a native of the South Tyrol where not only Italian is spoken but also German. But he is long gone from his home region. Daniel Zeilinga has been working in the Piedmont since 2012. Among other stations, he worked two years at the nearby three-star Michelin Restaurant Piazza Duomo. Here at Fàula, which means Tale in the local Langhe dialect, he places great value on “green food”. For this purpose, he tends a biodynamic garden together with the hotel gardener, right next to the dining spot.

What to expect at Fàula?

While Hotel Casa di Langa is a beauty without any doubt, I am not so sure when it comes to its restaurant. For me, it rather looks like a posh employee canteen with its uneven stone floor and its massive wooden furniture.

However, I only experienced the dining room at breakfast when the tables were bare. For dinner, they cover the tables with white tablecloths. There is also a nice outdoor area with splendid views of the beautiful Piedmontese landscape.

This is where our party of four were seated. However, at the start, the sun shone unhindered on the terrace with full force – there was no appropriate sun shade – , which was a bit unpleasant.

At Fàula you can either decide on a tasting menu or order from the à la carte menu. As to the former, you always get a five-course vegetable menu for 100€. It is designed by the chef according to the season and with the produce from their onsite garden. In addition, there also might be another seasonal menu on offer, i.e. a white truffle menu.

How was it?

Our party of four went for à la carte. After some snacks and a tasty amuse bouche (from the garden), they served the starters. All of us had ordered pasta (three choices priced at 30 to 34€). I had Hazelnut Tajarin – hand cut egg noodles – with raw shrimps and a beurre blanc sauce. The dish was delicious, yet the raw shrimps made the noodles cold very quickly.

For the main course (three choices from 40 to 42€), I had the Mediterranean Catch, which was a red snapper. While the sauce (beurre blanc) and the accompanying vegetables were good, the fish was so-so. But I am no big fan of red snappers and especially so when they are steamed, which was the case here.

After an excellent pre-dessert – ice cream with topping and crumbles – it was time for the main one. All of us had opted for The Tower of Albaretto with hazelnut, caramelized chocolate and red currant – one of four desserts at 16€ each. And that was a feast for the eyes and the palate as were the petit fours. While the dinner at Fàula was the least exciting of all the three presented here, I still consider the restaurant worth going to (well-crafted food), especially when staying at the hotel. And the staff does a good job too.

Looking back and forward on my Piedmont journey

As to my Piedmont journey, I already posted a 11-day itinerary. It was about a road trip with three stops in the Piedmont and one in the Swiss west (on our way home). The first in the Piedmont was en route to the first actual stay around Alba in the Langhe – the place where I have just gone into the best (Michelin) fine-dining addresses. Here we lodged at Hotel Casa di Langa (my review). My next post will be about things to do in the same area.

In a second step, I will switch to another part of the Piedmont, which is not so well known. It is about Stresa on the western banks of the Lake Maggiore further north towards Switzerland. This was the second focus of our Piedmont journey before we returned to Switzerland for above mentioned short stay in the country’s west. And I will report on the same topics as in the Langhe around Alba (best luxury hotel, best fine-dining restaurants and what to do in Stresa).

Date of stay: July 2024

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For a second visit in the Piedmont’s Langhe wine region within three years, my husband and I again opted for a hotel near Alba. While we had chosen a historic accommodation east of this regional capital at the time (Relais San Maurizio, my post), we went for a newly built one on our recent trip. This time it was Casa di Langa Piedmont, 30 minutes by car south from Alba. From what we had seen and heard about it on our research, we considered it as one of the best luxury hotels in the Langhe – as the one I have just mentioned. The same for both is that they are high-end hotels. Find in the following everything to know when planning a stay at the luxury hotel Casa di Langa.

Before coming to how it is staying in style at Casa di Langa, find a few lines to our Piedmont/Swiss west itinerary.

Travel itinerary Piedmont/north Italy & west Switzerland

My husband’s and my plan was it to make two four-day stays in Italy’s Piedmont. The first one should be in the “typical” one with its rolling hills covered with vineyards. For the second one, we wanted it to be in the Piedmont’s north, in the Italian Lakes region close to Switzerland. So, we settled for Hotel Casa di Langa, south of Alba, and Boutique Hotel Stresa, in the town of the same name on Lake Maggiore.

On our way to Casa di Langa, we made a stopover in Caluso, north of Turin (Piedmont’s capital). When going back home – after staying in Stresa – , we made a side trip to the Swiss west. Here the Valleé de Joux, not far from Lake Geneva, was our destination.

As you might have found out meanwhile, my husband and I are luxury travelers. That means we look for best upscale hotels and (Michelin) fine dining restaurants wherever we go. At the same time, we only choose such ones that we believe are worth their (high) price tags. And we enjoy exploring places by walking.

Staying in style at Casa di Langa in Cerretto Langhe, near Alba, Piedmont

Location of one the best luxury hotels in the Langhe

I could not think of a much more beautiful location in the Piedmont than the one of Casa di Langa. The hotel is situated on a slope in the Langhe wine region, 30 minutes south of Alba.

And you have the most stunning view of rolling hills dotted with villages and vineyards from here. On a clear day, you even have this vista against the background of the Piedmont Alps. The nearest village you can view from here is Serralunga d’Alba, and behind it is La Morra. And more gorgeous towns just as Barolo or Monforte d’Alba are not far from here.

Ambiance/Staff

Casa di Langa, designed by the Milanese firms GaS Studio with Parisotto+Formenton Architetti, was opened in June 2021. And this with the promise of becoming one of the Piedmont’s best hotels. The sustainable accommodation, part of a property that includes 42 hectares/104 acres of vineyards, hazelnut groves and forests, is owned by the U.S. Krause group. The building is set around an open piazza that cascades down the hillside in terraces towards the valley, which is quite a sight.

Materials are inspired by the surrounding landscape. While the exteriors are kept in all shades of deep red, the interiors come in neutral colors, with lots of wood and stone. For the furniture, a mix of Nordic and Italian craftsmanship is used. Everything is very nice to look at, however sometimes lacks practicability. For example, there is no elevator to the pool area or to the parking lot (you can access by buggy and they have valet parking).

Personally, I missed the Italianità at Casa di Langa, the typical pan-Italian identity. For me, the hotel felt quite a bit American, and on our stay there were also lots of guests coming from the U.S. I found the staff friendly yet somewhat distant, especially at the reception and the restaurant. The guys from the valet service however were very nice and helpful. One more remark to the Casa di Langa’s layout. The bar is an extension of the reception area, which feels a bit suboptimal. This is especially given the fact that there is so much space onsite. And it has no view, also on the outdoor lounge area. Bottom line: although the hotel is a true beauty and has the potential of being one of the Piedmont’s best, it lacks a soul in some way.

Rooms/Pricing at Casa di Langa Cerretto Langhe

There are 39 rooms at Casa di Langa, one of the best luxury hotels in the Langhe. And this in six different categories (two rooms, four suites). All come with a spacious private terrace.

Even the least expensive one is quite sizable (Classic Room 33 – 36 sqm). The next higher category (Deluxe Room) is similar in size yet offers a better view (towards Serralunga d’Alba). Junior Suites vary in size (36 – 52 sqm) and do not have the benefit of a valley view (as Deluxe Rooms). As my husband and I wanted to have twin beds (available at Classic Room and Junior Suites), we opted for the Classic Room – we did not want to risk a small Junior Suite. Here is how it was.

Classic Room with twin beds

Visiting the Piedmont in early July, we considered the pricing for our Classic Room as reasonable (446€ with breakfast). As to its design, I liked the contemporary look. They used locally sourced materials just as oak, terracotta, stone and leather, which made it quite unique. It is certainly not your usual hotel room.

The feature I liked most with our room was the huge terrace, although we could not shade it.

As we had chosen the twin beds option, the room was equipped with a special device. Actually, the beds were on rollers, so you could them arrange in two positions – either close together or totally apart. As we favor neither nor – the latter takes up too much space – , we were a bit at a loss. What I also regretted was the lack of seating (apart from the office chair).

The bathroom was spacious enough with an oversized shower but only one sink.

Overall, I was in favor of our room’s look yet more could have been made of the space available to make you feel more comfortable.

Facilities/Activities at one of the best luxury hotels in the Langhe

At Casa di Langa you find a really gorgeous pool. It is not only huge but also set in the most favorable position. Once when my husband spent there some time on a late afternoon, it was rather used as a pool bar rather than for swimming.

In terms of wellness there is also a gym and a small spa onsite. From what I learned – I have not been there – , it offers a whirlpool and a sauna. It is only available for private use against prior reservation, and this for 50 minutes per party.

As Casa Langa has its own wine denomination, there is also a wine academy offering two tastings each day. Cooking classes are also part of the activity offer. Furthermore, you can do hikes in the property’s woods, discover their vegetable garden and greenhouse self-guided or on a garden tour. Truffle hunting is possible as well as is renting a vespa or a bike. We did not make use of any offers as we had done a wine tasting and a truffle hunting on our last visit to the Piedmont (my post). Instead, we made (self-guided) hikes and did some sightseeing. I will cover some activities around Casa di Langa in a post to come.

Restaurants at Casa di Langa

You can either have lunch or dinner at the Fàula Ristorante (Michelin listed, casual fine dining)

or have drinks and small bites at the Sorī Cocktail Bar.

As to the latter, you get on arrival a voucher for a 15 % discount for a drink at the bar, which I found a bit strange. I think it would be better to get either a welcome drink or nothing at all. An in between solution does not work, in my opinion. Be it as it may, we had the one or other drink at the bar. It was nice enough, yet I found the location not that appealing, as I described above. We did not eat at the bar.

However, we had once a dinner at the restaurant. We were lucky and could have it outdoors,

which was a good experience (the indoors have a bit the appearance of a canteen), also food wise.

The chef knows what he does, and the staff did a good job too. More details to dining at Fàula Ristorante and other fine dining-spots nearby follow in a further post to appear on my blog.

Some more remarks to the above restaurant in terms of breakfast. We had it here on four mornings and found it solid but unexceptional. While you could order simple egg dishes without additional costs, this was not possible for eggs Benedict and similar fare. Smoothies were not free of charge either. And frankly, the orange juice they offered on our stay was no winner. Plus, my hot tea was only lukewarm on several occasions. Bottom line: such a breakfast performance does not look good for a property which strives to be one of the best Piedmont hotels.

Overall

Casa di Langa stands out from other hotels in the region thanks to its state-of-the-art architecture, its sustainable design and its breath taking setting. Seemingly, no costs were spared to make it a unique property. Even the entry-level guest rooms are quite large and nicely decorated, although a bit impractical in my opinion.

I also was in favor of the food quality when having dinner at the Fàula Ristorante. As to its design, I am bit less enthusiastic, I found it rather bland and uninviting. Also the breakfast service we experienced here was below my expectations.

As to the level of hospitality, I sometimes felt like being in a business hotel. This was especially so at the reception where the employees were rather reserved and impersonal.

All in all, my husband and I were happy enough with our stay at Casa di Langa yet far from being truly delighted. A beautiful appearance is not enough. It needs more commitment to guest excellence to ensure that (almost) everyone has a comfortable and memorable experience.

Looking back and forward

The start to my mini series about the Piedmont journey made a 11-day itinerary. This mainly included two four-day stays in this northern Italy region, one south of Alba in the typical wine growing area, the other near the Swiss border in Stresa on Lake Maggiore.

This very post went into Villa di Langa, our lodging in the Piedmont’s south and one of the best luxury hotels in the Langhe. Next on my blog, I will report on (Michelin) fine dining around our hotel (south of Alba) and things do do here. The same thing will follow as to our second Piedmont stay further north in Stresa (luxury hotel, fine dining, things to do).

Date of stay: July 2024

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One more trip lead my husband and me to northern Italy, this time to the Piedmont. Regarding the last two journeys in this area, find the details below. On our most recent voyage, it was basically about a two-stop Piedmont itinerary. One should be in the typical Piedmont with its hilly vineyards, the other in the Italian lake region just adjacent to Switzerland. We added two more halts to shorten the travel time from one place to another. As always when vacationing, we opted for luxury hotels and (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants as long as they offered value for money. This because we are not ready to pay ridiculous prices for staying and dining in style. And everywhere we went we were looking out for opportunities to walk and explore the area walking.

Looking back at former north Italy trips

Before coming to the itinerary of our recent Piedmont trip, here is some info on the mentioned last two journeys in the area.

North Italy trip 2023: Trentino-South Tyrol & Lombardy

We started the journey with two stays in the South Tyrol. On the one hand, we went to Dorf Tirol (Tirolo in Italian) above Meran (Merano in Italian). On the other hand, we ventured to the Sarntal (Sarentino valley in Italian) above Bozen (Bolzanzo in Italian). As you may have noticed, the South Tyrol is bilingual – German and Italian. Next was the Lake Garda further south. While its northern part is located in the Trentino, the place we went already belongs to the Lombardy. It is about the picturesque town of Gardone Riviera.

On return, we took a detour to the Lake Geneva region in the Swiss west. Precisely, we made a stop in Glion/Montreux.

North Italy trip 2021: Piedmont & Liguria

Our first stop in the Piedmont was not far away from Switzerland, in the Italian Lake region, and we opted for Orta San Giulio (Lake Orta). Then we proceeded to the “usual” Piedmont – rolling hills with vineyards – near Alba. At the time, we lodged in Santo Stefano Belbo, 30 minutes east from the mentioned regional capital. From here we went on to Liguria. Here we stayed in Alassio, the beach town on the so-called Italian Riviera.

Our way home led over France, we made halts in Vence, Les-Baux-de-Provence and in Vienne.

Now to our current Italy adventure.

North Italy trip 2024: 11-day road trip Piedmont & Swiss west trip itinerary

As mentioned, for our latest north Italy trip we had been longing for vines and lake. Here is my Google Map of it with all the (luxury) hotels we stayed and the (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants we went:

This time we started with a four-day stay in the wine growing area around Alba. We chose a hotel not so far away from the one we were on our last visit. Again it was half an hour by car away from Alba, but not in the eastern direction as last time but in the southern one. And it was in the town of Ceretto Langhe.

As it would have been quite a long trip from our home town, we inserted an intermediate stop about two thirds of the way. That was north of Turin in Caluso. Our second four-day visit was in Stresa on Lake Maggiore.

On our way home, we made a halt in the Vallée de Joux, a high valley in the Swiss Jura Mountains. It is situated not far from Lake Geneva in western Switzerland.

Now to some information about the individual places on our Piedmont itinerary. In addition, I also include some remarks about staying and dining in style here.

From place to place in the Piedmont & Swiss west

1. Caluso, north of Turin, 1st stop Piedmont itinerary

Caluso is a small town in the Metropolitan City of Turin in the Italian region Piedmont, located about 30 km/19 mi northeast of Turin. It has gained some notoriety because of the white wine grape Erbaluce that is primarily grown here. From what I read (and also tried) it makes good dry table, sweet and sparkling wines. In addition, Caluso has a nice medieval town center

and a tranquil environment (Lago di Candia: great circular walk).

Caluso is not exactly a tourist hotspot. My husband and I came here looking for a stopover between our home town and the Langhe wine region. And it delivered well in this respect with the fabulous one-star Michelin Restaurant Gardenia (update November 2024: Michelin listed) – I think we were the only foreigners on our dinner.

The female chef celebrates an amazing cuisine inspired by nature and with a high respect of the plant world.

And this in a beautiful 19th century building. Plus, we found a great bed and breakfast establishment, the brand new Villa Albaluce. It is a historic mansion with a spacious garden and  five suites (all with kitchen),

featuring 18th century parquet floors, frescoed vaults and antique furniture. On top of all that, staff was top notch. And it is only a few minutes away by foot from the above mentioned dining-spot.

2. Ceretto Langhe, south of Alba, 2nd stop Piedmont itinerary

I went into the typical Piedmont – sloping hills covered in grapevines – in a former post at some length. So, I will not offer more details about this area right now. I can only say this much: I found the Langhe wine region south of Alba even more beautiful than the already stunning one east of it. I think in this context of towns just as Serralunga d’Alba, Barolo or La Morra. Later on my blog, I will advise on some more activities in the area, in addition to the ones already mentioned in above post.

In terms of accommodation in the Langhe, we opted this time for Casa di Langa (my post). This hotel has not only an exceptional setting

but is also an architectural jewel. It opens up to a valley like an amphitheater, revealing a breathtaking view of the surrounding rolling hills dotted with villages and vineyards.

Casa di Langa is a fairly new property and features 42 modernly furnished rooms.

As always when traveling we try to dine at the best (Michelin) restaurants in the area – usually with an eye for value for money. And we made great finds in the area in this regard. We liked the dining experience at our hotel – Fàula Ristorante –

yet there is much more for fine-dining lovers in the surroundings. Come back later to check out my reporting on staying and dining in style in the Langhe wine region.

3. Stresa, Italian Lakes (Lake Maggiore) near Switzerland, 3rd stop Piedmont itinerary

The small town of Stresa is located on the western shores of Lake Maggiore, the longest of all Italian lakes. It has been a bathing resort since the late 18th century. The rather touristy place

is known for its lovely board walk, the splendid villas and the magnificent grand hotels from the Belle Époque period. And it is a perfect gateway for visiting the famous Borromean Islands.

At a later point of time, I will inform on things to do here in a separate blogpost.

Our main reason to choose Stresa above other spots in the Italian Lakes region was a newly opened luxury hotel. It is about Boutique Hotel Stresa (my review). This accommodation with 26 wonderful rooms

has a prime location just by the lake.

Furthermore, it is adjacent to the historic town center and five minutes by foot away from the jetty. Plus, it is a true beauty thanks to its successful architecture, a mix between old and new.

When it comes to fine dining in Stresa, LeBolle Restaurant at Boutique Hotel Stresa is a very good choice. You can have here contemporary Italian food with a twist either in its chic interiors or on the outdoor area. When doing the latter, make sure to make a reservation in one of the five bubbles, which is an enjoyable thing to do.

I have two more Michelin fine-dining recommendations for you in Stresa’s neighborhood. You will find all about staying and dining in Stresa in my detail report to follow on my blog,

4. Valleé de Joux (near Lake Geneva), Swiss west, side trip

On hour way home form our Piedmont itinerary, my husband and I made a stop in the Swiss west, precisely in the Valleé de Joux.

We have been in the area many years ago and wanted to revisit ever since. At the time, we liked the rugged and unspoilt valley nestled between Jura Mountain ranges. Now, as an upscale hotel has opened here not so long ago, we found that the right time for this undertaking has come. It is about Hotel des Horlogers (Watchmaker Hotel).

You can reach the hotel that is owned by a famous watchmaker company in about 40 minutes by car from Lake Geneva.

I must say that the property truly is a masterful engineering and design achievement.

And all the 50 guest rooms come with a stunning view of the Risoud forest.

While service at the reception was immaculate, the one at the restaurant was a bit uninspired. We had the Food Lovers package at their Michelin listed Brasserie Le Gogant, which included a four-course discovery meal. Food was good yet not overly inventive, given the place is overseen by a three-star Michelin chef.

Sadly, a booking at La Table des Horlogers (Carte Blanche du Chef) was not possible. Overall, we had a decent enough experience at Hotel des Horlogers, but we probably would not return.

What is next in my Italy’s Piedmont reporting

Whereas I will not go further into our two “stopovers” in Caluso/Piedmont and Valleé de Joux/western Switzerland, there will be more about the two main destinations on our Piedmont itinerary. These are the Langhe wine region around Alba and the town of Stresa on the Lake Maggiore. My reporting will include the two high-end accommodations – Casa di Langa near Alba and Boutique Hotel Stresa. I will also inform about the best (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants (Langhe, Stresa), both at the hotels and nearby. Finally, there will be blogposts about things to do in both places (Langhe, Stresa), especially for those who like walking as my husband and I do.

Date of stay: July 2024

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I can say about myself that I have dined at all the Michelin (starred) restaurants in Gardone Riviera on Lake Garda. There are four of them in total, and one of them is very popular. It is so sought-after that it is difficult to secure a table here. Before coming to this well-liked place, first to the “hotel restaurant” at Grand Hotel Fasano. This is the luxury lodging where my husband and I stayed recently on our 14-day trip through north Italy and west Switzerland (hotel post/itinerary post). The end will make another hotel restaurant on the lake plus an osteria in Gardone Riviera’s uphill historic center.

There is a lot to say about any of these four upscale dining spots in Gardone Riviera. Notwithstanding that, I will try to focus on conveying their most important aspects. Seen across all these Michelin restaurants, each of them provided good food, friendly service and a pleasant ambiance. Yet, there were of course considerable differences between them too.

1. Restaurant Il Fagiano (at Grand Hotel Fasano), one Michelin star

About

Il Fagiano Restaurant, Grand Hotel Fasano’s flagship dining spot, has been helmed by Maurizio Bufi since 2022. The chef, originally from southern Italy, moved here from another hotel in the area, Villa Giulia. This is also the place where he gained a Michelin star. Before, he had worked at another local lodging, the Lefay Resort & Spa. Earlier, Maurizio Bufi spent also some time in Switzerland, in the renown Badrutt’s Palace in Saint Moritz.

What to expect at Il Fagiano?

In terms of setting, there is an elegant dining room and a pleasing terrace with lake view.

As to Maurizio Buffi’s cuisine, it is creative and he knows how to play with textures and flavors so that a sublime culinary experience results.

On our evening at Il Fagiano, three tasting menus with six to seven courses at 110 to 130 € were on offer. All the dishes being part of these multi-course menus were also available à la carte. With the latter, starters costed 30 €, the first courses (pasta and risotto) 30 €, the mains 40 € and the desserts 20 €. We went for the tasting menu Essenza, with six courses.

How was it?

My husband and I were lucky enough to having been able to dine on the lovely terrace. The setting exuded casual elegance, and we felt well at ease here. Service was faultless throughout the evening, and the dinner was paced just right.

Food wise, we went for one of the tasting menus, Essenza with six courses. Everything we had was great, be it the first dish around the tomato, the pasta course (rabbit ravioli) or the main, red mullet, arranged by the chef himself at our table. The meal was inventive, balanced and varied. And a plus was that it also reasonably priced. And since November 2023, Il Fagiano has also held a Michelin star!

2. Restaurant Lido 84, one Michelin star & No 7 of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants

About

This is an unbelievably popular restaurant, you have to make your reservation at precisely the first possible point of time stated on their website (two to three months before). This because it is “sold out” in three minutes on weekends or five minutes on weekdays. When I did our booking, I was one day late and ended up on the waiting list. Luckily, we were informed three weeks before the desired date that we made it into the place!

The Camanini brothers – Riccardo the chef, Giancarlo working front of house – opened the dining spot in 2014. Before, Riccardo Camanini had overseen the kitchen at Hotel Villa Fiordaliso – see below – for 15 long years. Six months after opening Lido 84, the restaurant got a Michelin star and in 2021, it debuted The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list at No 15 (now No 7).

What do expect at Lido 84?

First of all, Lido 84’s setting is breathtaking. It is in a nice country house surrounded by a superb garden and this right on Lake Garda’s shore. Apart from the eclectic interiors,

there is a lovely outdoor area where you can have your meal only steps from the lake.

You are in here for exquisite Italian food which is a bit different from the one you usually get. The chef is strong at experimenting in the kitchen, combining old recipes with state-of-the-art techniques. His signature dish is Rigatoni Cacio e Pepe en Vessie, this is pasta with Pecorino cheese and pepper prepared in a pig’s bladder. The finish takes place tableside, which is quite a sight, and a delicious affair indeed!

Furthermore, he has a knack for art on the plate. There were two such dishes with semi-permanent status on the menu, spaghetti with yeast crumble (exposed at San Francisco MoMA) and risotto with black garlic and berries (dedicated to a local artist).

On our dinner, we had the choice of two menus – Menu Fluctuations with seven or nine courses at 130 or 150 € respectively Menu 4 e ½ with five courses at 140 €. You could add the mentioned pig bladder pasta for 20 € to both menus. The same is true for the two art pasta dishes, described above (only Menu Fluctuations). Furthermore, there is an à la carte option. Starters are available from 40 to 50 €, pasta at 40 €, fish at 50 or 60 €, neither meat nor fish (400°C Eggplant) at 50 € and meat at 50 €. Then there is the Grande Carte Des Desserts from 15 to 25 €. And the latter was by far the most comprehensive section!

How was it?

Lido 84 is the restaurant I liked most here in Gardone Riviera because of its breathtaking setting by the lake. It used to be a lido – hence the name – , a beach club for vacationeers. And we were lucky to be seated outside, which was very enjoyable.

After we had studied the menu, Giancarlo Camanini, the restaurant manager, inquired whether we were here for the the first time, which we answered with yes. Consequently, he recommended that we should include the two mentioned “art dishes”, and this in addition to the pig bladder pasta we had already ordered with the Menu Fluctuations. And so we had three pasta/risotto dishes, which I found a bit too numerous. Furthermore, we had two seafood courses to start the meal plus sweetbread (Giancarlo Camanini had asked whether this would be okay) and a Bavette steak. The end made two different desserts to share.

While everything was immaculate prepared, utterly delicious and wonderfully arranged (especially the risotto), the menu felt not that balanced to me. For me the share of starchy food (three dishes) was too high. And we got no vegetables at all, throughout the evening! Except if you count in the mashed potatoes (half potato/half butter), which I would not do. Furthermore, it was quite “heavy stuff” we got, not only the starchy food and the mashed potatoes. The oyster (one of the starters) was gratinated and the Torta di Rose, yeast-based pastry with lemon zabaione (one of the desserts), is no light fare either.

Overall Restaurant Lido 84 Gardone di Riviera

You could notice from my description of the food that the experience at Lido 84 was not necessarily the one I expected (modernist, new taste cooking). For me, it was comfort food on a high level, no less, but not more, either. I have already mentioned the dreamlike setting, which is hard to beat.

As to the service, it was good but not outstanding. Often, chefs served their dishes themselves with explications, which was nice. However, the staff who cleared the tables was not that knowledgeable. And the sommelier was somewhat offended when my husband said that the 2019 Barolo won with its longer opening, although he had asked for a feedback about the wines before (we had the wine pairing).

While I found the individual dishes exquisite, I could not understand how they could propose such a misbalanced menu to us. Three out of seven courses consisted of starchy food, and there were no vegetables whatsoever. In my view, they should know better. But probably there will be no second shot for us here as I cannot imagine going through the hassle of the reservation process at Lido 84 once again.

3. Restaurant at Hotel Villa Fiordaliso, Michelin listed

About

This is the restaurant where the chef at Lido 84, Riccardo Camanini, worked before. And it is still a good address for foodies, although the actual chef here, Dino Colantuono, cannot totally keep up with his predecessor’s performance. You are here – once again – in a historic house, built at the end of the 19th century. This time it is an Art Nouveau villa, which is now a hotel, with five rooms only.

What to expect at Villa Fiordaliso?

The setting is beautiful, directly overlooking Lake Garda’s tranquil waters. There is an outdoor setting – under a tent-like structure, which is not so nice to look at. There must also be an indoor dining room, yet I could not make it out when I ventured inside for the ladies’s room.

With regard to culinary offerings, there is a six-course tasting offer at 130 €. In case you wish to dine à la carte, no problem, it is possible too. Starters amounted from 30 to 50 € (the latter with foie gras), first courses (pasta/risotto) from 25 to 45 € (the latter with lobster), mains from to 45 to 55 € and desserts from 15 to 20 €. While I found the tasting menu adequately priced, I considered the à la carte options as a bit over the top.

How was it?

While I found the setting wonderful – it is the former residence of Mussolini’s mistress – ,

I did not like the tent-like structure above and around me in the outdoor area. But I imagine it comes handy in case the weather is “borderline like”. Otherwise, the ambiance was pleasant with a maître d’ – Or even the hotel director? – being  a warm host ensuring each client felt looked after. When he heard that we wanted the tasting menu (130 €), he recommended having the wine pairing too, which we had – and liked.

When it comes to food, I liked the starters (beef carpaccio and mozzarella three ways) and the starchy dishes (risotto with shrimps and cheese ravioli) best. The fish dish (grouper) was good and the dessert was not more than solid. It was the same we had at Lido 84 (Torta di Rose). This time, the pastry was good, however the zabaione was much too sweet for my liking. And the second dessert, Fior di Latte ice cream, was not exceptional.

Overall, you get well made classic Italian food with a twist at Villa Fiordaliso. Some dishes were original (mozzarella three ways), others were rather normal (fish). While the food experience was not on the cutting edge of fine dining, it was a perfectly satisfying meal.

4. Restaurant Osteria Antico Brolo, Michelin listed

About

This is the only dining spot we visited that was not on the lake, and you have no water views either. However, its setting is highly presentable too. Osteria Antico Brolo is located in Gardone Sopra. This is where the actual historic town center is situated. And it convinces with colorful houses, densely vegetated balconies and lovely squares.

Antico Brolo is helmed by Enrico and Marcello, two friends and associates, the latter since 2010. This was when the Osteria opened in a historic house from the 1700s in the old town. And for a few years now, there have been some guest rooms on site too.

What to expect at Osteria Antico Brolo?

The location amidst the historic old town of Gardone Riviera is nice, especially so the courtyard.

As to its interiors, there are three small dining rooms of a rather modest appearance – it is probably not much different in here compared to its origins in the 17th century. A highlight is the tiny balcony where only two guests can have a seat. The ambiance here is rustic and relaxed.

When it comes to food, you get regional cuisine with seasonal quality ingredients at Osteria Antico Brolo. There is a focus on fish yet meat dishes are also available. And the offerings are surprisingly affordable. On our visit, there were two tasting menu, All Truffle (four courses for 65 €) and Freshwater (four courses for 46 €). A la carte is available too, starters from 18 to 21 €, first courses (especially pasta & gnocchi) from 16 to 23 €, mains from 23 to 26 € and desserts for 9 €.

How was it?

This laid-back restaurant is a good addition to the other three by the lake, which are all more on the elegant side. While Enrico worked the front of the house, I suppose Marcello was in the kitchen. Service was friendly, efficient and down-to-earth. We felt well at ease here. As to to food, we opted for the Freshwater tasting menu. The feast started with citrus marinated trout and continued with pasta paired with char. The main was pike with polenta, and the end made a lemon sorbet accompanied by a fruit salad.

Everything we had was well prepared and tasty. As to food presentation, there was rather a no frills approach. And the portions were generous, especially the pasta dish. When it comes to pricing, you get here very good value.

Overall Michelin Restaurants in Gardone Riviera

While the “hotel restaurants” (Il Fagiano at Grand Hotel Fasano and Restaurant at Villa Fiordaliso) provide an elegant white tablecloths setting, the two other offer a more casual fine dining experience. As to the former two, Il Fagiano is more on the creative side, Villa Fiordaliso on the classic one. Out of the latter two, Lido 84, is the more upscale one, with Italian cuisine that is partly experimental yet always delicious. Whereas the individual dishes were convincing, I did not like how the menu (that was proposed to us) was put together (too much starchy food and no vegetables). As to Osteria Antico Brolo, it is the most down-to-earth eatery of all the Michelin restaurants in Gardone Riviera with regional and seasonal food.

Looking back and forward

This is the last post to the Italian part of a 14-day journey through north Italy and west Switzerland. It started in South Tyrol (Merano and Bolzano area) and continued to Lake Garda – the last post was about a luxury hotel here, Grand Hotel Fasano, the current one about all the four Michelin restaurants in Gardone Riviera.

The final blogpost of this mini-series covers the two only Michelin starred restaurant in Montreux, the lovely town on Lake Geneva. This place boasts – as Gardone Riviera – a Mediterranean-like climate, which lets grow plants that you usually not encounter in these latitudes.

Date of visits: September 2023

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The post All 4 Michelin (starred) restaurants in Gardone Riviera on Lake Garda, Italy first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post All 4 Michelin (starred) restaurants in Gardone Riviera on Lake Garda, Italy appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Lake Garda in the Italian Lakes region in north Italy has been on my bucket list for a long time. And as it makes a good combination with the South Tyrol, where my husband and I had planned to go in late summer, we decided to finally realize a stay here. When it came to where to go exactly, I came across Gardone Riviera on its southwestern shore by chance. I had heard about a Michelin starred restaurant here that seems to be a must-be for fine dining lovers, Lido 84. And so I had checked out the nearby luxury hotels, and liked what I found, especially so Grand Hotel Fasano. Plus, the town is considered as one of the most beautiful villages in Italy. After all this positive information, I knew that Gardone Riviera was our destination for staying and dining in style on Lake Garda!

I already gave a hint, we did not only go to the Lake Garda area on this journey, but visited several places in north Italy and one in west Switzerland. Find out all about our 14-day road trip in the next section, before I go into Gardone Riviera. And this to let you know about its finest high-end hotel.

14-day itinerary through north Italy & west Switzerland

As indicated, we paired the South Tyrol (our first destination), where we made two stops, with Lake Garda. Afterwards, we returned to Switzerland. But instead of heading home, we made one more stay on Lake Geneva. Check out my overview post if you want to know the details of our 14-day journey through northeast Italy and west Switzerland. In case you rather want information of combining Italy’s northwest with France’s south, have a look at my 11-day itinerary that we did in 2021.

As to our way of traveling, we stay at high-end hotels and dine at Michelin (star) restaurants as long as we consider their pricing as somewhat reasonable. We do not pay prohibitive rates!

This is the moment to continue with Gardone Riviera on Lake Garda, precisely with the luxury hotel of our choice at this spot. If you want to know what activities to undertake here, I mentioned some in my itinerary post.

Staying in style at Grand Hotel Fasano in Gardone Riviera

Grand Hotel Fasano is one of several old word accommodations in Gardone Riviera, mostly built in the late 19th century. In my view, out of them, Grand Hotel Gardone

is the most impressive. And this mainly because of its size, the main building is incredibly long! At the time, there were 300 guest rooms, all facing south (now you find 167 on site). From what I read, this hotel will undergo a 45 million euro renovation as of 2024. Once done, it will be managed by Apex Alliance Hotel Management (Hilton, Marriott, Radisson).

But back to Grand Hotel Fasano, our choice in Gardone Riviera. For me, it is the most beautiful grand hotel in town. More to its other features in the sections to follow. I begin with its back story before going into location, ambiance/staff, rooms/pricing, restaurants and other facilities.

Grand Hotel Fasano’s back story

Grand Hotel Fasano was built in neo-Classical style in 1888. While it originally was a hunting lodge for the Austrian imperial family, it was converted into a luxury hotel later on. The property got its name (Fasano) from the word fasaneria (pheasantry). In the years to follow, the hotel saw many prominent guests. While there were mostly aristocrats in the beginning, later on show-biz celebrities took over. Shirley Temple, Federico Fellini or Marcello Mastroianni stayed here, to name a few.

During the Second World War Grand Hotel Fasano was turned into a military hospital. After the war, the property was in a pitiful state. For example, the wooden floors were torn up as they had been used as firewood. Nevertheless, the hotel opened quite soon again for the summer season of 1948. This time, the clientele mostly was middle class. In 1962, the hotel undertook an expansion (the third) and a thorough renovation, which made it possible for the Fasano to become a high-end establishment again. Finally, in 1989, it was declared a National Heritage by the Italian government.

Grand Hotel Fasano is family owned by the Mayrs – stemming from the South Tyrol – in the third generation. Nowadays, it is run this by the brother duo of Olliver and Patrick Mayr. Over the years, the hotel has constantly been refurbished and modernized. In 2007, a spa was added. The more recent renovations transported the property into the five-star superior category. In 2022, the Fasano became member of the exclusive hotel group of The Leading Hotels of the World. And the latest highlight is the large-scale makeover of the spa, realized for the hotel’s 135th birthday in 2023.

Location

You know by now that we are here on Lake Garda in north Italy, and this on its southwestern shore. The stretch of coast where it lies is called Lemon Riviera. And this thanks to its mild microclimate which lets Mediterranean plants grow.

As to Grand Hotel Fasano’s location, you have to be aware that the small town of Gardone Riviera is quite an elongated one. There are two districts by the lake, Gardone and Fasano. And to make it even more complicated, there are two more on the hillside. Yet this is of no importance in this context. Anyway, the district of Fasano, where the hotel is situated – hence the name – , is not where the center is. To get to it – to Gardone’s lungolago (lakeside promenade) and the jetty – , you have to walk for about 15 minutes. But it is no big deal, and there is even an elevated sidewalk for most of the way. Otherwise, Grand Hotel Fasano’s situation is exceptionally beautiful. It is in set in a majestic building on the lakeshore, surrounded by beautiful gardens.

The next bigger town in the area is Salò (10,000 inhabitants), about five minutes by car away. Yet you can easily get there by foot too (1 h), my husband and I did it once.

Getting to Gardone Riviera from Brescia, the provincial capital, is only possible by car (35 minutes) or bus (1 h 30 minutes). You find in this city also an airport, another one is in Verona (1 h by car to Gardone Riviera).

Ambiance/Staff at Grand Hotel Fasano

Staying at a grand hotel is always a special experience, and doing so at such a splendid one as the Fasano even more so. The owner family went to great lengths to maintain an old world feel without closing themselves off to modernism. I could imagine that the room and the terrace where breakfast is served have not much changed over the years. The same is true for the service here. When you show up for breakfast, you are accompanied by the maître d’ to your table, and this without exception. That has style, and this without being stiff or overly formal.

While the reception area makes the impression of having been unchanged since the beginning, other public spaces just as the lobby/library area got a fresh new look.

As to the guest rooms, I understand that some of them are fully and other partially renovated. From the pictures on the website, I gathered that there are accommodations both in a classic style and in a contemporary one. More about the room my husband and I had you find in the respective section to follow.

As to the staff’s attitude, it was spotless throughout our stay. I found that the one at the reception desk did a particularly good job. They were hospitable, efficient and professional whenever we got in touch with them. Yet also the staff at breakfast was able to convince. As to the service at Grand Hotel Fasano’s restaurants, our one and only dinner here (Il Fagiano) was a success, service and food wise (details to the latter follow).

Rooms/Pricing

There are 79 rooms in total, available in many categories, different styles (classic or modern) and renovated to various degrees (partly or completely). Rates start at 260 € for the Standard Room (20 – 25 sqm, no lake view) in low season. The next higher category is the Superior Room (from 364 €, 20 to 25 sqm, partial or full sea view), followed by the Deluxe Room Lake View (from 462 €, 30 to 35 sqm, with balcony). The best room category (without suites) is the Executive Room Lake View (from 554 €, 40 to 50 sqm, with balcony).

I found it not easy to orientate within the website when it came to choose the right room for our needs. We usually go for a spacious enough accommodation with a view, and as many people we prefer it to be recently renovated. In terms of style, we rather go for a modern one, yet we are not averse to classics ones as long as they are well kept. Anyway, we finally opted for the Executive Room Lake View. Find in the next section more details to this room category.

Executive Room Lake View: our choice of room at Grand Hotel Fasano

We got a completely renovated, modern styled room on the third floor (British: second floor). And that was actually what we had been hoping for (there are also classically styled rooms). If you prefer a certain style, I advise on being specific about your wishes. The same is true for the floor. The one we had was perfect. One higher up is probably even better, however one lower is not so good (view is a bit marred by the roof of the restaurant terrace below).

As to the room features, I was astonished to see that once entering the accommodation you are in the middle of the bathroom. It is not separated from the bedroom, yet at least there is a wardrobe (and a seating area) between bath tub and bed.

In this context, I noticed that the bath tub at the Deluxe Room Lake View category is only separated by a curtain! This has to suit you …

Apart from the open bath room – from which I am not a fan – , I was very much in favor of our room! It appeared exceptionally spacious to me. There are two seating areas, one was just behind the wardrobe I mentioned, which we rarely made use of. The other is right by the window, and it is about two swivel upholstered armchairs. The latter feature is really a fun element in here, I liked them a lot! They are great in case the weather does not allow to sit on the balcony. In the end, we did not use them as often as we had thought initially as the weather was warm and sunny all the time.

As to the balcony, the views from here are gorgeous. I sat here many times, taken from all this beauty around me.

Overall Executive Room Lake View

The room very much appealed to me – including the color scheme. However, some elements are not on the practical side. This is about the open bathroom and the somewhat small wardrobe. Yet also the baggage area is located at a spot where you usually do not need it. Precisely, it is opposite the bed, quite a distance from the wardrobe.

Restaurants at Grand Hotel Fasano

When staying at the Fasano, you have four restaurants at your disposal. Three of them are on site, one (La Darsena Ristorante & Pizzeria) is in Barbarano, half an hour by foot or five minutes by car away. As to the ones at the hotel, the Magnolia is only open for lunch, the two others only for dinner.

In terms of the latter, Il Fagiano is the flagship dining spot, with creative, contemporary Italian cuisine (one Michelin star).

The other one, Il Pescatore, is a trattoria, which is a bit less formal than the former. The specialty here is fish in particular, as the name suggests. My husband and I had dined at Il Fagiano on one evening. Learn about how it was in my next blogpost where I go into dining in style in Gardone Riviera. We were at all the four Michelin (starred) dining spots in town, so I can provide a good overview.

Furthermore, Grand Hotel Fasano has three spots for having drinks and snacks. These are the lobby, the Gin Lounge or La Terrazza (outdoor area).

Other facilities

Park & outdoor pools

In case you are a sunbather, Grand Hotel Fasano is ideal for this kind of activity (or rather inactivity). You find here a stunning 12,000 sqm park, filled with magnolias, palm and banana trees.

If you want to swim, you can do this in the lake or the two (not so big) pools. One is heated, the other not. As to the indoor pools, I go briefly into them in the next section.

Spa

I mentioned it above, the spa experienced a total overhaul and first opened its doors in March 2023 after these works. So, it is brand-new! I have to admit, I  did not use it, so I can neither comment nor provide pictures. But here are a few facts about it.

The AQVA SPA 2.0 covers over 3,500 sqm and consists of five different areas. First, there are an indoor pool and a panoramic whirlpool. You can also swim from the indoor pool area to the outdoor one through a so-called adventure tunnel. Second, if you have kids, you can use the family steam bath. Third, you find on site a large sauna area complete with Finnish sauna, Roman steam bath, Vitarium (herbal steam bath) and Tepidarium (hot relaxation room). Forth, for relaxation you can decide between the winter garden or the relaxation room. And fifth, AVEDA’s Ayurvedic treatments and SOTHYS’ massages are available.

In addition, they offer classes (pilates and yoga), a fitness center with Technogym equipment, a hairdresser corner (external service) and a wellness buffet with refreshments.

Overall Grand Hotel Fasano

Grand Hotel Fasano is for sure one of the top addresses for discerning guests looking for an enjoyable stay on Lake Garda. You are here at a stately late 19th century castle surrounded by lush grounds and located directly on the lake. The premises are perfectly kept with lots of renovation works done in recent years (guest rooms and spa). Dining options are varied and also include a Michelin listed restaurant. Service is impeccable, and the clientele is (pleasantly) diverse, I think, thanks to being a member of The Leading Hotels of the World.

Location wise, you are here in one of the most beautiful villages in Italy. There are two major sights in town and many more in the surroundings. Furthermore, Gardone Riviera lies on the Lemon Riviera. This stretch of coast boasts a Mediterranean-like microclimate, which lets citrus fruits grow – hence the name.

Looking back and forward

As announced, there will be more info on dining in style in Gardone Riviera in a blogpost to come. I will cover all the Michelin (starred) restaurants in town.

The post after next goes in the same direction. However, we are talking about the Montreux area on Lake Geneva in west Switzerland. This was the last stop of a 14-day road trip through northern Italy & western Switzerland in style of my husband and me. And as far as this destination is concerned, I will go into the only two one-star Michelin restaurants in the town of Montreux. When it comes to staying in style here, a former blogpost of mine was about that.

All that is left for me to do is letting you know which destinations we went before Gardone Riviera on Lake Garda. This is about two spots in the South Tyrol, the village of Tirolo above Merano and the Sarentino valley above Bolzano.

Date of stay: September 2023

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Yet again my husband and I made a find on our never-ending journey of chasing down Michelin stars. And this in a place we would have never dreamed of being successful in this mission. The restaurant (with premium hotel) is located in a remote spot in Sarentino valley in the Sarentino Alps. And imagine, you are here only a bit more than half an hour away from Bolzano, South Tyrol’s capital. This is about Hotel Terra The Magic Place, a Relais & Châteaux property, with its two-star Michelin Restaurant Terra. The name could not been more true! There is nothing far and wide, except a ski hut and this exceptional accommodation. Hotel Terra underwent a thorough renovation in recent years and offers high quality premises, boutique style.

Before I give you more information about Hotel Terra The Magic Place, first to the trip itinerary, from which this stay was part of. Precisely, it was the second stop after the nearby Merano, probably South Tyrol’s most popular town for vacationers.

Journey itinerary northern Italy and western Switzerland

Starting in Switzerland, our home country, we left for the Merano (Tirolo) area and afterwards to Bolzano’s further surroundings (Sarentino valley). After these two stops in Italiy’s most northeastern province of South Tyrol, we headed south, yet not too far. And this to Lake Garda. Here we had chosen a spot on its southwestern shore, the small town of Gardone Riviera (hotel/restaurants). This was our last destination in Italy before going back to Switzerland, precisely the Lake Geneva region. And here we had opted for Montreux. See also my overview post of this trip.

In case you should be interested rather in northwestern Italy, meaning Piedmont and Italian Riviera (plus south of France), here is another trip itinerary, undertaken in 2021. On both journeys, staying in luxury hotels and dining in Michelin (star) restaurants was important to us. But this only if prices for doing so were not excessive.

Now to our stay in the the Sarentino valley.

Staying in style at Hotel Terra The Magic Place Sarentino valley

Location

I already gave some hints as to this premium hotel’s situation (Sarentino valley in the Sarentino Alps above Bolzano in South Tyrol). In case you come from Bolzano in the south, you get to the valley’s capital of Sarentino in less than half an hour. From here you have to drive 15 more minutes on a narrow winding road to reach Hotel Terra The Magic Place. While there is not much traffic on this stretch of road, be prepared to face the one or other difficult situation when meeting oncoming cars!

If you should arrive from north, then you probably started in Austria. From Innsbruck you need about two hours to get here, crossing the Brenner pass. This is a mountain pass over the Alps, which forms the border between Italy and Austria.

While you are in Sarentino at 980 m/3,315 ft above sea level, Hotel Terra The Magic Place is much higher up, at 1,622 m/5,322 ft above sea level. Once at this spot (Prati/Auen), you are in the middle of nature. There is lots of forest around, it is hilly, and you have this fantastic view of the Dolomites mountain range, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Hotel Terra The Magic Place’s backstory

Johann Brugger, the grandfather of the sibling pair owning Hotel Terra The Magic Place, Gisela and Heinrich Schneider, laid the foundation stone for this property. He built the adjoining Sarner Ski Hut at the time when the ski trails were still trodden by foot. Resi, his oldest daughter (Gisela and Heinrich’s mother), got to know her future husband while helping out in this ski hut. Together they built up Hotel Auener Hof (former name of Hotel Terra), which was no easy thing as there was no electricity in the beginning.

The Schneider family loved fine food. And so they used to dine at gourmet restaurants when a special occasion arose. In 1998, Gisela and Heinrich took over the family business, when having finished their studies. They were young at the time (23 and 26 years old), and it was no easy undertaking. Their plan was it to transform the Auener Hof into a gourmet hotel. Heinrich, the chef, was very passionate about food. But he did not have much time to do internships and to learn from the masters. So, he went his own way (more about this later on).

In 2008, Heinrich Schneider got his first Michelin star, which was a big motivation for the Schneiders. Together with Gisela, responsible for the front of house, they aimed at new goals. Gisela’s partner, Karl Manfredi, joined them in the business, and they took the first step, the hotel’s renovation. In 2014, they became a member of the Relais & Châteaux hotel group. And in 2017, they got their second Michelin star! Shortly afterwards, the Auener Hof was renamed in Hotel Terra The Magic Place.

Ambiance/Service

When stepping foot in Hotel Terra The Magic Place, you are still under the impression of the somewhat difficult drive on that access road. And you still cannot believe that this place is real, a premium hotel with a two-star Michelin restaurant in this isolated spot! A modernist version of an Alpine chalet awaits you, wood in combination with large window fronts. And it feels boutique here.

Gisela Schneider awaited us behind the counter and ushered us right away to a seating area. Here she served us a welcome drink and home made crackers. And she asked us to fill in a form as to our wishes for breakfast. The offerings sounded promising, and we were already looking forward to this meal (do not miss the warm apple tart)! As to her person, she is friendly and helpful yet I found her to be quite understated. We found her brother, whom we talked to on our departure, to be more open.

Having said, we liked the vibe at the premises, be it at the restaurant or elsewhere. The atmosphere is laid-back and unpretentious. And every time when leaving our room, we encountered Gisela, either on her own or along with her husband and/or her brother. It is clearly a family affair at the Terra. Other staff we met, in particular two servers during dinner and the one or other chef appearing at our table, were all polite and professional.

Rooms/pricing at Hotel Terra The Magic Place

Ten room are at your disposal at this foodie hotel, all of them nicely furnished in a minimalistic style with lots of wood and decorated in natural hues. Out of these three are suites: Panorama Suite (the newest addition, 47 sqm & terrace 19.5 sqm), the Pine Studio Deluxe 46 sqm & terrace 25 sqm) and the Junior Suite (47 sqm & terrace 19.5 sqm).

When it comes to rooms, the Superior Room is actually the same as the Junior Suite, minus the additional room with a sofa bed (38 sqm & terrace 19.5 sqm). Then there is the Design Room (27 sqm) with access to a garden with two sun loungers at your disposal.

All the suites and rooms expect the Design Room category are south-facing, with views of the Dolomites, this stunning range of mountains, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Rates start at 340 € per room and night. In addition, there is a bunch of packages, starting from a one night stay to a five-night one. The least expensive price is 680 € and includes accommodation, breakfast and the Terra Experience Tasting Menu for two.

My husband and I went for the Junior Suite along with the Two-Night Romantic Getaway. Here is what to know about it.

Our choice of room & package: Junior Suite & 2-Night Romantic Getaway

As mentioned, 47 sqm await you plus 19.5 more on the the terrace. When booking, I had not realized that the second room (9 sqm) is not of much use for a couple. This space is not integrated in the main room but a separate bedroom for one to two children. It contains a sofa bed only and feels a bit claustrophobic. We actually entered the room only once, and this when checking it out on arrival. Opting for a Superior Room from the beginning would have been the smart move, as it is actually – as outlined – the same without the additional room.

The main room was spacious enough for the two of us. There is a small seating area plus a tiny desk with chair. What I liked much was the roomy walk-in closet and the generous terrace complete with table, two chairs and two sun loungers.

As to the bathroom, it is not huge yet adequately sized, coming with a large walk-in shower and double sinks.

In terms of package, the 2-Night Romantic Getaway includes two dinners in the Michelin-two star Restaurant Terra. On the first day you get a down to earth five-course dinner, on the second a creative ten-course tasting menu (Terra Experience). Also part of the package is a fabulous breakfast that you receive in a separate room adjoining the dining-room. And much appreciated by us, everything is served, no need to stand up and to help yourself from a buffet

Last but not least, a bottle of sparkling wine and a chocolate bar were laid out in our room on our arrival.

Other facilities/activities Hotel Terra The Magic Place

Apart from the main dining room and the breakfast restaurant there is not much as to public space. Adjoining the reception area is some kind of library/lounge.

And since recently, you find onsite a small but fine wellness area. It is located on the property’s top floor and is only open in the afternoon. There is a jacuzzi with views of the Dolomites mountain range, a Finnish sauna and a herbal steam bath plus a relaxation area. In addition, you can book an array of massages and other treatments. We did not go to the spa so I cannot provide any pictures. Yet it looks promising on the website.

What we did here, and which is THE thing to do here, is hiking. The most popular hike in the area is the one to the Stone Men (see also on the hotel’s website).

My husband and I followed the following trail (outdooractive). However, we did an additional loop to the Kreuzjoch (see my tracked trail, only the one back, on outdooractive). And it is well worth as you have a great panoramic vista from here.

After all these details about staying in style at Hotel Terra The Magic Place, now to what it offers with regard to dining in style. And this is impressive!

Dining in style at Restaurant Terra Sarentino valley

As you know so far, a Michelin two-star dining experience awaits you at Restaurant Terra. Before I dive into it, a few lines about the chef and its cuisine.

Chef/Cuisine

You have already learnt that the chef, Heinrich Schneider, did not do many internships at other restaurants. He does not have a mentor either. Instead, he describes himself as self-taught – although having done an apprenticeship as a chef. Yet, he rather took inspiration from his surroundings than from grand masters. His cuisine’s DNA is all about wild herbs and plants. And he uses those growing around the property, just as his mother did. He collects them himself, and he does this on his own. At some time in the past, he even did a training in this field, to get to know other, lesser known herbs.

As far as other ingredients are concerned, he tries to source locally whenever possible. He wants to offer his guests produce they cannot taste elsewhere. Yet, in case he thinks that for example caviar is necessary for a certain dish, then he does not shy away from using it. Although, he has to buy it from another region or even from abroad.

Dinner experience at Restaurant Terra

As I let you know, my husband and I dined twice at Restaurant Terra, on subsequent days (we had booked the 2-Night Romantic Getaway). So, we had two different experiences, one a bit more grounded, the other sophisticated.

Design

Before describing how it is dining here, some lines to the dining spot’s look. I was astonished to discover that the elegant dining-room is not only airy, but elegant and modern at the same time. You still have to consider we are here up in the mountains, in an off-the-beaten-path place. There are two prominent features that catches your eye. First, there is the suspended, glass-walled wine room above your heads, Gisela Schneider’s empire (she is a sommeliere too).

It is in competition with the huge picture windows providing a stunning view over the mountain world.

In addition, you find here an open kitchen where you can watch the chef working along his team. I have to say I was impressed by Terra’s appearance!

But that was not the only thing that made a lasting impact on us.

Day 1: The Chef’s Childhood Memories

We started our “gourmet dinner marathon” at Hotel Terra The Magic Place with the more down to earth experience. Having said that, it did not lack refinement.

The start made a praline of dried mushroom along with cornflower. From the very first moment, the chef makes clear what his cuisine is about, wild plants and herbs. Next, was the bread, rye and spelt sourdough bread along with local butter and spruce tree shoots oil. When doing research about the chef, I found out that he has an ambivalent relation to bread. He thinks that it is not a necessity when having a tasting meal. This because it can steal your appetite. And consequently, it may rob you out of the fun of fine dining. There is something about that!

We continued with carrot tartar, paired with cress and herbal salsa, followed by buckwheat risotto in unison with mountain cheese. Afterwards we got pasta – of course, we are in Italy. But it was not the usual one, precisely spaghetti made with yeast and egg, which results in a different taste. The accompanying herbs were waldmeister and yarrow.

The main course was braised meat, glazed ox cheeks with peas-mint cream. We ended with amaretti curd cheese dumplings, paired with apricots and basil ice-cream plus some petit fours. And this dish is clearly a reminiscence of South Tyrol’s past as part of Austria.

Day 2: The Terra Nature Experience

The second dinner at Hotel Terra The Magic Place was the turn of the whole shebang! The menu was written down on an overlong piece of paper, quite an event that was! Hence, I will not go into all the details of the meal. I will not always mention it, yet each and every dish contained at least one wild herb and/or plant. And I have to admit, many of them were unknown to me.

We warmed up with a variety of snacks, each of those an artwork in itself. And the whole was accompanied by dry ice mist, which is time and time again quite a sight. Next was a variation of the rainbow trout, followed by a trio of dishes without any apparent connection (at least to me). Among them, liquid cheese gnocchi. Then it was up to another Italian influenced course, a glazed “jumbo” ravioli with fresh herbs. It came with the same bread we had the day before.

The dinner continued with a fish dish, brook trout in burnt milk. Yet another ravioli was served, this time with beetroot and nettles. The last savory course was deer in two preparations, as praline and as saddle.

Ultimately, it was time for desserts. First, there was a white strawberry sphere along with a medley of cow parsley granita and spruce oil stones. The second one was also split in two. There was a cone filled with rye foam and wheat grass on the one hand. On the other hand, a composition made of verbana sorbet, raspberry, yoghurt, thyme and iced milk joined in. A small tea ceremony set the final point, consisting of herbal tea and an assortment of petit-fours.

How was it?

Not every day, you get the chance to dine at one and the same two-star Michelin restaurant two days in a row. To avoid a repetitive experience, it was essential that the two meals were totally different. And Heinrich Schneider managed this task very well. While one meal was rather on the rustic side – yet refined enough for a high-end dining spot – , the other one was culinary fireworks, for both eyes and palate. You well notice the chef’s love for his home, the mountains and their produce. The bounty of nature is really astonishing, all these edible items that are around. And he knows exactly how to incorporate them in his menus to achieve maximum effect.

All the courses we had were immaculately prepared and beautifully arranged. And the sometimes colorful herbs definitely helped to strengthen the impression. My favorite dishes were probably the “jumbo” ravioli and the desserts,

which were balanced tasting experiences. I already said a few words to ambiance and service above. To add to these, both evenings passed seamlessly, with everything perfectly orchestrated.

If I want to picky, then I would point out one thing that did not add up to me. And this is the second course in the menu “The Chef’s Childhood Memories” (first day). I cannot imagine that Heinrich Schneider was served carrot tartare as a child as this dish rather seems to be a “newfangled” one. While this is not utterly relevant, there was some other thing about it. The carrot tartar was the only course I was not a particular fan of. I found it quite heavy and the portion as too sizable. But otherwise, the chef’s performance was convincing. The gourmet dinners “in a double pack” at Hotel Terra The Magic Place delivered what they promised – and we enjoyed it!

Overall Hotel Terra The Magic Place

The total package at Hotel Terra The Magic Place in the remote Sarentino valley high above Bolzano, South Tyrol’s capital is amazing! If you are a nature and fine dining lover likewise, then I strongly recommend looking into this place. In case you like staying in style too plus you are into hiking in the mountains, I cannot think of a better spot than this boutique lodging. A two-star Michelin restaurant plus newly renovated premises await you here in the Sarentino Alps. Furthermore, an engaged and capable sibling pair is in charge here at Hotel Terra The Magic Place. She is the host, and he is the chef.

To top this already astonishing performance, you have the most remarkable view of the Dolomites mountain range, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, from here. Plus, in case you should be into records, Hotel Terra The Magic Place hosts the highest located Michelin star in whole Italy. In addition, the chef has his unique style when it comes to preparing and serving food. Grown up in the mountains and not having done lots of internships at other restaurants, he became THE connoisseur as to wild herbs and plants.

Looking back and forward

The stay at Hotel Terra The Magic Place is part of a mini-series about a trip to northeastern Italy and western Switzerland. It covers four stops in total, two in South Tyrol, one on Lake Garda and one on Lake Geneva. This very post went into the second destination. For the itinerary of this 14-day journey, check out my overview blogpost. Next on my blog you will find out about a four-day stay on Lake Garda, at the fabulous Grand Hotel Fasano in Gardone Riviera.

It is located on the southwestern shore of Italy’s largest lake, near the town of Salò. Expect information about where to stay and dine in style. And the latter concerns all the four restaurants in town that are included in the Michelin Guide.

Date of stay: September 2023

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The post Staying & dining in style at Hotel Terra The Magic Place in the Sarentino valley in South Tyrol, Italy first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Staying & dining in style at Hotel Terra The Magic Place in the Sarentino valley in South Tyrol, Italy appeared first on Swiss Traveler.