Finally we come to the last part of a North and Central France trip done in late summer 2024. This is the France west-east crossing from the Brittany – which was the actual focus and part two – back to Switzerland where my husband and I live. We did so by taking the route via Cognac, the Dordogne and the Cantal. As to part one, that was about our way from home to Brittany, which led over the Champagne and the Normandy, and where I gave an outline of the whole journey. My reporting includes the itinerary with some of the most important things to do everywhere we went plus the one or other walking suggestion. Furthermore, I let you know where to head for best (luxury) hotels and (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants, here in this post it is about Cognac, the Dordogne and the Cantal.

Before I come to these three places, find in the following again my Google Map with our North and Central France itinerary plus all our (luxury) hotels and the (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants en route:

From place to place in North and Central France, part III, Cognac, Dordogne & Cantal

1. Cognac north of Bordeaux

About Cognac

The town of Cognac in the Charente Departement is about two hours by car north of Bordeaux. It is famous for one of the world’s best-known type of brandy. To label a spirit Cognac, it must be from a certain area and strictly made according to regulations (double-distilled). A bit like in the Champagne, you can visit the “Grande Marque” Cognac houses to view the process and to taste it.

Otherwise, in my view Cognac does not have much to offer in kind of attractions. The location on the Charente river is nice but that is it.

I found the town and even its historic center not that special. Yet it makes a great stopover for luxury traveler as you can find here two of the best luxury hotels in the area, Hotel Chais Monnet & Spa and Hotel La Nauve. While the former is in town, the latter is in Cognac’s surroundings.

Our hotel: La Nauve Cognac

My husband and I opted for the newer one of the mentioned luxury hotels, La Nauve, opened in summer 2023. And that was a great decision! It is idyllically located in a former Cognac distillery and mansion a few minutes by car from Cognac. What a beauty La Nauve is!

It is wonderfully restored with the finest materials.

Though, I considered it as impractical in many aspects, especially as far our room was concerned (Prestige Room, 33-38 sqm, No. 10, 696€ per night with breakfast, out of 12 in total). Without going in details, it was adorable from its looks, and there was a huge outdoor area too.

The breakfast was fantastic, served in the library (on inadequate chairs for the occasion).

Staff was faultless, and there are two great restaurants onsite (see below). You find here also a large garden, a bar and an outdoor pool.

Our restaurants: both at Hotel La Nauve in Cognac

We did not venture out of the hotel as I thought that both in-house dining spots made a good impression. And I was right so, both belong to the best restaurants you can find in Cognac! First I come to the casual bistro and then to the elegant gourmet dining spot, both led by chef Anthony Carballo. And pastry chef (Simon Souchaud) is a genius, I adored his varying brioches!

a) Brasserie des Flâneurs Cognac

This was one of the few restaurants on our journey through France that was not Michelin listed (although it would have deserved the award). It is situated in an annexe – that used to be the estate’s distillery – and has a modern, casual vibe.

Staff was unobtrusive but friendly. And the place seems to draw quite a number of locals. They serve modern international food, expertly prepared. Prices are at a medium level (starters from 16 to 19€, mains from 25 to 30€ and desserts around 10€).

b) Notes, gourmet restaurant, Cognac

The Michelin listed Notes is quite different from the above eatery. It is a refined dining establishment in an intimate part of the main manor.

You can make your choice between two tasting menus, one with four and the other with seven courses. I found them adequately priced, fitting the upscale setting at La Nauve (on our evening 80 and 120€). The ambiance is sophisticated and the staff, especially the head server, was top notch on our dinner. And the food – modern French cuisine – was sublime, in my view even worthy a Michelin star.

2. The Dordogne aka the Périgord

About the Dordogne/Périgord

The Dordogne department ist often called by its old name, the Périgord. The former is clearly a territorial designation (the river Dordogne). The Périgord is a historical name, it dates back to Roman times and represented the old province at the time. Yet both stand for a lovely landscape full of medieval castles, prehistoric caves and fortified villages.

The main town is Périgueux, boasting a charming old town with 2,000 years of history.

Then there are lots of villages that are part of the Les plus Beaux Villages de France (the most beautiful villages in France). Quite a few are around Sarlat, in the Black Périgord, the most popular part for visitors. I name here La Roque Gageac,

Beynac et Cazenac, Castelnaud la Chapelle or Dome. Plus, you find in the Dordogne also Jardins Remarquables (remarkable gardens), one of the more popular is Jardin du Manor d’Eyrignac.

While everything is very nice to look at, it is also quite busy (many large groups of bus tourists). To avoid the crowds, we did a nice walk/hike from La Roque Gageac to the Castelnaud La Chapelle Castle along the Dordogne, here is the link to the track on Outdooractive.

Our hotel: Domaine de Rochebois in Vitrac

Upfront I have to mention that we found it hard to select an accommodation to stay in style in the Dordogne. In search of best hotels here, you are somewhat lost. Really good luxury lodging is a rarity in this area. And our choice after much consideration turned out to be suboptimal. While Domaine de Rochebois is a beautiful property, it feels somewhat neglected.

From what I read, the hotel experienced quite some changes (opened in 1993, reopened in 2022 after a closure of 10 years, sold in 2024). On our stay, the restaurant and the golf course were closed. The room we had (Junior Suite Prestige, No. 212, 50 sqm, 514€ per night with breakfast, 40 rooms in total) had been updated not so long ago but already felt a bit dated. The same was true for the outdoor area (mossy cushions).

Staff was friendly, and the breakfast was okay. Onsite, you also find an outdoor pool and a spa. There is a bar too, yet it felt dreary.

Our restaurants: Ô Moulin in Carsac-Aillac & O’Plaisir des Sens in La Roque Gageac

If you are looking for best restaurants in the Dordogne, specifically in the so called Black Périgord, there is no way around the following two establishments.

a) Ô Moulin in Carsac-Aillac

We were much in favor of this small restaurant with a Michelin Bib Gourmand, opened in 2018. It is idyllically located in a former water-powered sawmill. The attentive lady of the house – Cécile Guérin – welcomed us and ushered us in the contemporary, casual dining room.

Her partner, Nicolas Aujoux, celebrates a modern French cuisine and occasionally also served plates on our dinner. You can choose among there tasting menus (3/3/6 courses 42/57/82€) and also dine à la carte, what we did. We had a fabulous duo of duck liver and turbot fillet, also the desserts were persuasive.

And the host even exchanged a few sentences with us, which was nice.

b) O’Plaisir des Sens in La Roque Gageac

At O’Plaisir des Sens, Bruno (chef) and Lydia Marien (host) have been at work here since 2015. The chef’s cooking expertise is evident, the restaurant is Michelin listed. His cuisine is classic, although with a modern twist. As far as the dining spot’s appearance is concerned, it is somewhat eclectic.

And the service on our dinner was down to earth, at times not quite seamless, e.g. when the host served cheese from the trolley. Plus, the business is a family affair, on our visit a daughter helped out in the service. Food wise, you have several options. Either you can choose one of three tasting menus (3/4/4 courses at 48/69/85€) or dine à la carte. We had the “the golden middle-menu”, which was fine, although a bit awkwardly composed (white beans with bacon, a delicious duck liver, sweetbread and a peach dessert).

3. Cantal, Auvergne/Aubrac Plateau

About Cantal, Auvergne/Aubrac Plateau

The Cantal mountain range respectively the Aubrac plateau are not necessarily places you know as foreign travelers. My husband and I ended up here because we had been looking for a stopover on our way from the Dordogne back to Switzerland. And imagine, we enjoyed here not only the culinary highlight, but also one of the best hotels stays of the whole trip. But more to how to travel in style further below.

If you are wondering where exactly we were, it was the town of Chaudes-Aigues.

It is located in the Massif Central in the heart of France, between the Cantal mountain range and the Aubrac plateau. The area is sparsely populated and geographically isolated. Much of Cantal is about pasture for the cattle – among other the old breed of Aubrac – and sheep. And this is because the climate is usually too cold and damp for grain. And we well noticed this on a walk we did in the area (link to the track on Outdooractive).

Regarding Chaudes-Aigues, it is a spa resort with more than 30 hot springs across the town. And the most famous is the Par Spring, which is the warmest natural one in whole Europe! As to natural beauties in the surroundings, there are the Aubrac Regional Nature Park, the Laussac Peninsula or the Truyère Gorges. A town you might have heard of is Laguiole where you find many companies that manufacture the famous Laguiole knives. In addition, it is a pretty village too.

Our hotel/restaurant in Cantal: Serge Vieira

My husband and I came to the Cantal region not because of the hot springs or the natural beauties, but because of the two-star Michelin Restaurant Serge Vieira. On our “mission” of finding the best restaurants everywhere we go, we stranded in this remote place. And fortunately, this highly decorated dining spot comes with accommodation options too. You can either stay at three rooms at the Couffour Castle (Restaurant Serge Vieira)

or at 18 rooms at their second place, Hotel Sodade, down in Chaudes-Aigues. Here in town, you also find Restaurant Sodade with a Michelin Bib Gourmand. I think that these establishments belong to the best what you can find in terms of upscale hotels and restaurants in the near and further area.

a) Stay at Serge Vieira at Couffour Castle

As I mentioned above, we experienced not only culinary delights at Serge Vieira but also a great hotel stay. Out of the three rooms available at Couffour Castle we opted for the “Yellow Room” (about 30 sqm, 415€ with continental breakfast). Yet I think all three have the same layout. We liked what we encountered, a modern and generously sized accommodation with an outdoor area for viewing the peaceful rural scenery.

What I very much appreciated was that the room came with two financier-pastries on both days of our stay. And the breakfast was out of this world!

Plus, Marie-Aude Vieira is the best host you could wish for.

b) Restaurant Serge Vieira, the best restaurant of our France journey

There is a sad back story behind this establishment. This is because the two-star Michelin chef Serge Vieira died of cancer at the age of 46 in mid 2023. Before he had built up with his wife Marie-Aude a successful restaurant and hotel business (Restaurant Serge Vieira at Couffour Castle from 2009 as well as Hotel and Restaurant Sodade from 2019). After her husband’s death, Marie-Aude Vieira took over. She did this with the help of a long-time friend of the family, Aurélien Gransagne. He runs the kitchen and she the dining room. I must say, we had the most exceptional dinners here – we ate here two evenings in a row (originally, we wanted to have the second one at Restaurant Sodade).

While I cannot judge Serge Vieira’s cuisine, I was delighted by Aurélien Gransagne’s inspired and truly unique dishes. You can choose between two menus: M for Marie-Aude at 235€ (6 courses) and S for Serge at 135€ (4 courses). Among other delicacies we had the most formidable lobster paired with corn or a dessert creation made of figs and almonds.

We enjoyed this in the ultra-modern dining room with picture windows to take in the views.

And this well cared for by the amiable host and her team.

Looking back to road trip in North & Central France in style (part I & II)

Here it was about the last part (three) of a North and Central France trip my husband and I did recently. It regards the itinerary from Cognac over the Dordogne to the Cantal, which was our way home to Switzerland from the Brittany. The start (part one) made the opposite direction, from our home country to our actual main destination. The voyage went first to the Champagne, then to the Normandy. And part two focused on the journey’s centerpiece, the Brittany.

Date of stay: September 2024

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The post 19 days on the road in North & Central France in style – PART III way from Brittany to Switzerland first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post 19 days on the road in North & Central France in style – PART III way from Brittany to Switzerland appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Now it is about the Brittany, the main focus of a road trip in North and Central France that my husband and I did in late summer 2024. To get here from our home country of Switzerland we travelled via the Champagne and the Normandy. Part one of my mini-series about the voyage went into it – and also gave an overview of the whole journey. In this very post, I concentrate on the Brittany. And part three – soon to appear on my blog – focuses on our way home from the Brittany that lead us to Cognac, the Dordogne and Cantal. In all three posts, I inform about the itinerary including the major sights and some walking suggestions. And I let you know where to go for best (luxury) hotels and (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants; here as mentioned it is about Brittany.

Before diving into the Brittany, first again my Google Map with our North and Central France itinerary plus all the (luxury) hotels and the Michelin fine-dining restaurants we were:

From place to place in North & Central France, part II, Brittany

Brittany: Dinard, Perros-Guirec & Sainte-Marine/Combrit

As you have learnt by now, Brittany was our trip’s main focus. We totally spent twelve nights here, four in each spot. The start made two places on the north coast, first Dinard, in the region’s northeast. Perros-Guirec, in the northwest followed. And Sainte-Marine/Combrit near Quimper on the west coast and at the same time in Brittany’s southwest made the end.

About Brittany

Walking/Hiking on GR 34

What I found brillant about Brittany is the fact that there is a walking/hiking trail running the entire coastline (GR 34). And this Sentier des Douaniers (Customs Trail) is about 2,000 km/ 1,243 mi long. Not that my husband and I did overly long tours, but we picked out the one or other stretch of track at every place we stayed. As to Dinard, I was fond of the walk from Dinard to Saint-Lunaire (link track Outdooractive). Around Perros-Guirec, I absolutely adored the trail from Sainte-Anne to Bringuiller (link track Outdooractive).

And in the department Finistère (around Quimper) the walk/hike on the Crozon peninsula was nice (link track Outdooractive).

Town hopping in Brittany

Of course, there is also much to in Brittany in case you do not want to walk or hike. We visited quite a numbers of towns and especially liked the following ones. I list them from northeast to southwest. Cancale is a pretty port and famous for its oysters.

And  I think we came across the most beautiful villages in Brittany just before reaching it on our way from Honfleur. Saint-Malo is a fascinating granite city with its impressive rampart but unfortunately overtouristed. Dinard – nicknamed “Cannes of the north” – is an absolute beauty with its numerous Belle Époque villas.

More to Brittany’s west, Tréguier is worth a quick visit with its huge cathedral, the beautiful narrow streets and little squares. Perros-Guirec is a charming small seaside resort with a relaxed feel.

The nearby Ploumanac’h is famous for its imposing, pink granite rocks. Lannion is a historic town with pretty houses and small paved streets.

In the region’s south, Quimper has not only a majestic cathedral but also a nice historical district. Plus it has a distinctive Breton Celtic character.

Concarnau is a small walled town, which is nice but very touristy (one of the most visited places in Brittany). As far as I am concerned, I liked the nearby Pont-Aven better, famous for its colony of painters in the 19th century. It is picturesquely nestled on the banks of the Aven river with enchanting alleys in the old town.

Our hotels in Brittany: Castelbrac Dinard, L’Agapa Perros-Guirec & Villa Tri Men Sainte-Marine/Combrit

Now it is about the three (luxury) hotels we had in Brittany, which I regard as the possibly best you can find here. While the first two (Castelbrac and L’Agapa) are five-star establishments, the last (Villa Tri Men) is a four-star. Whereas the guest experience at Castelbrac was as perfect as it gets, this was not so at L’Agapa. Let me be straight, for me this accommodation is no real luxury hotel, it is rather a four-star. And I did not really warm to its vibe, which I found a bit old-fashioned. Hotel Castel Beau Site, a bit more in the west, might be a (better) alternative (built 1928, opened 2020, 28 rooms, 4-star). As to Villa Tri Men, it definitely is a four-star, yet one with an upscale ambiance. Now, to some more details to each of these three lodgings.

Castelbrac Dinard

This was the most upscale hotel of our voyage and also the best overall experience we had! It has a favourable position in Dinard, right on the beachfront promenade.

It was opened in 2015 in a historic building that used to house a museum of natural history. Now, there are 25 guest rooms looking out over the water, many with terraces, just as ours, which was huge (Prestige Room Terrace Sea View, 40 sqm, No. 4, 772€ per night with breakfast & one drink). Their style is refined yet laid-back, with Art Deco features.

Staff did a really good job, and we were served the most lovely breakfast.

Furthermore, you find here a bar, transformed from the museum’s former aquarium, and a Michelin-star restaurant (details follow below). But not enough, Castelbrac also has an outdoor pool, a small chapel and a vintage motorboat for excursions.

L’Agapa Perros-Guirec

As mentioned above, our stay here turned out to be a bit of a deception. The hotel is big for the area, where lodging tends to be small-scale (45 rooms).

It was opened in 2005 with some renovations made in the meantime. We had booked a room in one of the two annexes (Deluxe la Désirade, 45 sqm, No. 72, 384€ per night with breakfast & half a bottle of Champagne). It had a nice sea view and a generous layout, but I found it cheaply built. And it was musty, especially the bathroom, which would otherwise have been quite attractive.

Other facilities included a bar, a Michelin listed restaurant (details see below) and a spa. Breakfast was okay, as was the staff. In favor of L’Agapa must be mentioned that their pricing is reasonable. Plus, they replaced the Champagne in our room daily.

Villa Tri Men Sainte-Marine/Combrit

My husband and I felt comfortable at this elegant 19th century villa overlooking Sainte-Marine’s port. It is most probably the only bigh-end property in the area, especially if you value good reviews.

While the room we had was small and understated (Cottage, 25 sqm, No. 21, 384€ per night with breakfast), it was not a problem for us. Yet none of the 19 rooms at Villa Tri Men are large (opened in 2003, renovated in 2017/18). The bathroom at the cottage was quite spacious. Unfortunately, it had a slight moisture issue, but it was manageable. Plus, we had a nice outdoor area with a river view, as the only one of three cottages in total.

Onsite your find a bar and a Michelin starred dining spot (more info follows). And there is a second restaurant affiliated to the hotel down at the port (Michelin listed, details below). Staff is friendly and helpful, and a good breakfast is served here.

Our best restaurants in Brittany: my ranking

We dined at quite a number of fine-dining restaurants in Brittany on our nine-night stay. I will rank the dining spots we were in descending order of my fondness. And as longer this section goes, the shorter my recounting of the dining experience becomes. Frankly, none of the eateries – all listed in the Michelin guide – disappointed. Some showed weaknesses regarding the service or the concept, yet the food was always good or even excellent.

My No. 1 restaurant in Brittany: Les Trois Rochers Sainte-Marine/Combrit

My absolute favourite in terms of best restaurants in Brittany was the one-Michelin Les Trois Rochers in Sainte-Marine/Combrit near Quimper. Here Frédéric Claquin has been in charge since 2003, awarded a Michelin star since 2016. He celebrates a creative seafood cuisine blended with spices from around the world. The setting is nice, a modernly furnished dining room with picture windows to view the beautiful port scenery.

Three tasting menus are on offer: 3-course 67€ (weekdays only), 4-course 99€ and 6-course 142€. We opted for the whole shebang as we celebrated my birthday. And it was a delectable culinary journey from A to Z, delivered by competent and warm staff.

My No. 2 dining spot in Brittany: La Table de mon Père Perros-Guirec

This Michelin listed place is the hotel restaurant of Castel Beau Site I mentioned above. My husband and I enjoyed a fabulous meal here in a contemporary-chic setting. And this with a stunning view of the St. Guirec Beach.

At work here is Nicolas Le Luyer, a true Breton. He has featured a modern cuisine and has showcased local produce since 2013. On offer at La Table de mon Père is a 3-course menu of the moment for 59€. Furthermore, there are two tasting menus, 4/6 courses for 89/109€. And you can also order à la carte, what we did. As a main course, we had pork filet in unison with local sea snails (42€), which was a delight! The standard of service was pretty good, although not completely faultless.

My No. 3 eatery in Brittany: Éclosion in Quimper

This is an urban gourmet restaurant at its best! Éclosion, awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand, was a real find for us. Not only got we contemporary food with a foreign twist at moderate prices, but also the service was very persuasive. Marion Pelletan is responsible for the dining-room, and this with lots of competence and and passion.

Thibault Le Goff in in charge of the open kitchen. And they have been doing this since early 2023. The menu includes three starters, mains and desserts each, from which you can compose a 3-/4-course menu (38€/45€). The setting is nice, modern and inviting at the same time. A must-do restaurant in case you come to Quimper!

My No. 4 restaurant in Brittany: Pourquoi Pas in Dinard

Pourquoi Pas is the “hotel restaurant” at the five-star Castelbrac. It has been holding a Michelin star since 2019, and this under the lead of  Julien Hennote. He is Breton yet a well travelled one. In the kitchen, he favors local produce and sustainable coastal fishing. You get here a 4-/6-/8-course menu (80/100/120€). On our dinner here, we had a lobster menu. It included six dishes, which were all inventive and well-made, though we found the main special. It was a lobster tail on sausage slices, which we considered a strange pairing. Yet the desserts were fantastic. And we also got a goodie, a financier with algae. This may sound awkward, but it was very tasty! Had it not been for the the somewhat awkward main dish, this dining spot would have topped our ranking of best restaurants in Brittany.

Service was good as was the ambiance at this elegant and stylish dining spot with its wonderful view of the Saint-Malo Bay.

My No. 5 to 8 dining spots in Brittany

Two more Dinard dining spots follow in my ranking of best restaurants in Brittany, both Michelin listed. This is about Ombelle and Didier Méril. While the former is modern and casual,

the latter is traditional and elegant, yet both with sea view.

Whereas Ombelle is reasonably priced, Didier Méril seems rather pricy for the area. Staff at both establishments left a mixed impression. However, the two of them offered quite a good food experience.

No. 7 is Le Bélouga in Perros-Guirec and No. 8 Bistrot du Bac in Sainte-Marine/Combrit, both included in the Michelin guide. The former is a hotel restaurant with a great sea view yet with quite a chilly atmosphere.

The service was so-so, however the food was persuasive (bistronomic and moderately priced, especially on Sunday and Monday).

The latter is a hotel restaurant too, but not your typical one. Instead, it is a real bistro

with fresh and simple seafood dishes (sole was great).

And the setting on a small port is lovely.

Looking back and forth to road trip in North & Central France in style (part I & III)

This very post went into the centerpiece of our North and Central France trip, the Brittany. To summarize, part one (last blogpost) was about our way from Switzerland to the Brittany. It went to the Champagne first, followed by the Normandy. Soon on my blog, you will find part three (the last of this mini-series), highlighting the route we took when returning home from the Brittany. We did so via Cognac, the Dordogne and the Cantal.

Date of stay: September 2024

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The post 19 days on the road in North & Central France in style – PART II Brittany (main destination) first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post 19 days on the road in North & Central France in style – PART II Brittany (main destination) appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

A long held plan came true in late summer 2024, when my husband and I set off on an extended journey through France. Not that we have not travelled our beautiful neighboring country in the recent past, but mostly for a few days only. This time we wanted to do a longer trip to France, and this by car. Its main focus should be the Brittany. As we started from northwestern Switzerland, this meant that we had to build in at least one stopover. And the same is true for the way back. So in the end, a 19-day voyage resulted. Before arriving in the Brittany, we made two stops (Champagne & Normandy). The return way lead via Cognac, the Dordogne and the Cantal/Auvergne. As always when traveling, we kept an eye out for best luxury hotels and (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants worth the money spent on them. Here in this post it is about part one, an outline of the the whole journey and the route to Brittany, leading to the Champagne and Honfleur/Normandy.

Before coming to our 19-day itinerary for North and Central France in style, there is something else. It concerns the sort of content you may expect in this context.

What is next about the North & Central France journey in the time to come?

Actually, I wanted to provide quite a number of blogposts about our extended trip through France’s north and center. And they should follow right after this one outlining our itinerary. I used to to do this on my blog for many voyages in the past. This time, it will be a little bit different. This is because my husband and I already did another longer road trip in the meantime. It went to the Peloponnese and Athens in Greece. So, I want to keep my France travel recount shorter. That means to focus on the essentials such as what to do and where do go for best hotels and restaurants (part one: Champagne & Honfleur). I might pick out one or another topic and dwell on it later. Yet this would be after letting you know about our Greece journey just in the way I do it here for the North and Central France. It makes no sense for me to always fall behind with my trip reporting. And the next voyage is already approaching!

19 days on the road from Switzerland to Brittany and back with several before-and-after stops

It was not the first Brittany trip that my husband and I undertook this late summer. Back in the 90s, we already spent two weeks in the area. So, we decided to leave away most places that we went to at the time. This is true for some of the most visited spots too, Mont-Saint-Michel or Pointe du Raz. Notwithstanding, there are more than enough things to do. Here is my Google Map with our North and Central France itinerary plus all the (luxury) hotels and the Michelin fine-dining restaurants we were:

As mentioned, the journey’s first stop was in the Champagne region where we stayed in Épernay. From here, we continued to Honfleur in Normandy. Next was the first of three stays in Brittany. It took place in Dinard. Perros-Guirec, another town on France’s north coast followed. Then, we moved on to the country’s west coast, to Sainte-Marine/Combrit close to Quimper.

After leaving Brittany, we headed further south to Cognac, where the famous spirit of the same name comes from, a type of brandy made of grapes. The next stop was in the Dordogne (Vitrac), also known under its old name of Périgord. From here, we drove on to the Cantal department, which is located in the heart of France. Here we lodged at Chaudes-Aigues. Originally, we had planned one more stop in the French Jura. Yet we cancelled it at the last moment and directly returned to Switzerland from Cantal, which was quite a stretch to drive.

Now to some information about the individual stops on our North and Central France itinerary. This includes things to do with a couple of walking suggestions. And you learn about where to go for staying and dining in style. As there is quite a lot of material, I need to break my reporting down in three parts. I start in this blogpost with part one, the Champagne and Honfleur/Normandy (best activities, hotels and restaurants). The next one will be about the Brittany and the third part about Cognac, the Dordogne and Cantal.

From place to place in North & Central France, part I, Champagne & Normandy (best activities, hotels & restaurants)

1. Champagne Épernay

About the Champagne

Champagne is undoubtedly France’s most famous fizz, if not the world’s! This wine-making region is on Paris’ northeast side, with the towns of Reims and Épernay often used as a visitors’ base. For sure, you want to visit a Champagne House when being in the area, so book your slot in advance. If the question should arise which one to choose, this is difficult because there are numerous! My husband and I visited the biodynamic Leclerc Briant Champagne House because we stayed at their hotel, a family house in the middle of Épernay (see below).

While Reims is a bigger town (population of about 180,000), Épernay is much smaller (22,000 inhabitants). Both have their charms. Reims boasts a nice old town and a splendid cathedral. The special feature of Épernay is the Avenue de Champagne. It has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2015. Here one Champagner House comes after another. And attached to them are bars and restaurants where you can taste the Houses’ finest cuvées, sometimes paired with culinary delicacies.

Our hotel: Le 25Bis by Leclerc Briant Épernay

For our two-day stay in the Champagne, my husband and I chose Le 25Bis by Leclerc Briant (Champagne House), opened in 2019. With its five rooms only, this former 18th century family home makes for an intimate stay. As it is located on the prestigious Avenue de Champagne, this luxury guest house comes with a Champagne shop and a terrace to try the House’s cuvées.

As to its interiors, it is a mix between old and new. Each room is different from each other. We opted for Room No. 3, which I personally find the best as it overlooks the (quiet) rear of the house with the garden. It is spacious (47 sqm), with a lovely seating area and quite a large bathroom.

And Le 25Bis by Leclerc Briant is a heaven for Champagne lovers! Not only were we treated a small bottle of their exquisite Champagne and cookies in our room, but we also got a glass of it every morning at breakfast! The room rate per night was 425€ (with breakfast), which we found adequate. A delightful little breakfast was included, prepared on site (behind the bar) by friendly staff.

Our restaurants: Bulles & Bonheur and Symbiose, both in Épernay

a) Bulles & Bonheur Épernay

I really wanted to have a dinner with a Champagne pairing and came across the Champagne producer of Élodie D. This is about a female wine growing business in the fourth generation. As to their restaurant, two tasting menus are on offer. The five-course Menu Élodie (wine grower) amounts to 70€ without and to 130€ with the Champagne pairing (5 glasses). Menu Fabrice (her husband), which we had, includes seven courses and costs 110€. Together with the Champagne pairing (five glasses) the total expense is 200€. As to the food, you get here immaculately prepared modern French cuisine, nicely presented, in pleasant surroundings.

Fabrice was present on our dinner and this together with a fifth generation member, the couple’s lovely daughter. She helped out with the service although being only about ten years old. And she did a good job just as the rest of the staff! In terms of Champagne, you get different cuvées of the Champagne Élodie D. and also old vintages of the Champagne Desbordes-Amiaud. We liked both of them, although the latter is a Champagne of a different kind. We found that it almost tasted like a port wine.

b) Symbiose Épernay

Symbiose is a small eatery in Épernay’s town center where Maxine Moret (chef) and his wife Justine (host) are in charge. On offer is a contemporary cuisine (Michelin listed). Although Justine was not present 0n our evening, we felt well cared for on our dinner. The modernly styled dining room feels pleasant.

In terms of food, there are three starters, two mains, cheese and two dessert available. Out of this offer, you can compose two menus (4-/5-course at 54/70€) or order à la carte. Everything we got – we opted for the 4-course version – was great! I liked it that the cuisine was not only modern but also light. Maybe the service was a bit slow-paced, but I think the chef was alone in the kitchen.

2. Honfleur Normandy

About Normandy

Normandy has lots to offer as to things to do. Its most popular attraction is of course the Mont-Saint-Michel Bay – a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979. Although it is overrun by tourists, it is worth visiting. Another must-do is exploring the different landscapes along the Alabaster Coast. There is the GR21 hiking trail running all the way from Le Havre to Le Tréport. Its most beautiful part is probably around Étretat with its beautiful cliffs – unfortunately overtouristed too. And if you are a history buff, the D-day beaches might be your thing.

As my husband and I already visited the Mont-Saint-Michel Bay and Étretat on our first trip to Normandy, we limited ourselves on discovering Honfleur a bit more. We did so by making a hike around Honfleur, here is the link to the track on Outdooractive.

As to Honfleur, we already knew it. Therefore, we expected lots of tourists here. It was exactly like that, but understandable. The historic multi-store houses packed tight to each other around the Vieux Bassin (port) make a beautiful picture.

Yet a few steps further, and you are away from the masses!

Our hotel: Saint-Delis Honfleur 

Our hotel in Honfleur was Hotel Saint-Delis, opened 2020 in a 17th century former family home.

It is located in a beautiful residential neighborhood, very close to the town center.With its nine rooms only, this Relais & Châteaux property is very boutique. The elegantly furnished rooms come with steam showers and overlook a splendid garden.

We had booked a Deluxe Room (31 sqm, 599€ with breakfast per night), yet were upgraded to a Junior Suite (40 sqm). It was a duplex with ample space, which we liked (No 5). And this despite the fact that the A/C was a bit suboptimal.

You find no restaurant on site but there is a bar for hotel guests only. Here you get a lovely breakfast and snacks throughout the day, served by friendly and helpful staff.

Our restaurants: Huître Brûlée & Le Bréard, both in Honfleur

a) Huître Brûlée Honfleur

At the Michelin listed Huître Brûlée you get oysters – as its name suggests! But we chose other items from the small à la carte, which is reasonably priced. The cuisine at this lively, casual place is modern.

And and you get also lighter and healthy choices. At the helm at Huître Brûlée is a younger couple, Paul Lacheray in the kitchen and his partner, Chloé Woestelandt, in the dining room. Even though the staff was busy on our visit, it was cordial. We liked what we had for starters (all around 15€) and mains (from 22 to 30€). Instead of  going for cheese (5€), my husband and I had two desserts (10€ each). Yet the latter was too much, as especially the chocolate dessert was quite heavy (one dessert is probably sufficient).

b) Le Bréard Honfleur

This Michelin dining spot is the more sophisticated choice compared to its above mentioned competitor. What they have in common, is the modern food. Yet the decor here is chicer, the service more polished and the cuisine a touch more refined.

A younger couple is in charge as well, Fabrice Sébire in the kitchen and his wife Karine in the dining room (since 2004). On our evening, we could have a seat outdoors in the lovely courtyard. From the three menus (with options), we chose the middle (3-course menu 45€, 4-course menu 60€, 6-course menu 70€).

The service was professional and attentive. We found that Karine had an open eye for subtleties that others might overlook. And there were no issues with the pricing, which we considered as fair.

Looking forth to road trip in North & Central France in style (part II & III)

That was the first part of a North and Central France trip my husband and I undertook lately. It showcased the itinerary from Switzerland – where we come from – to the Brittany. This is about the Champagne and Honfleur/Normandy, and I go into the best activities, hotels and restaurants here. The Brittany is the main focus of our journey and I deal with it in part two. Part three finally is about the return way, going from the Brittany via Cognac, the Dordogne and the Cantal back to Switzerland.

Date of stay: September 2024

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Now it is up to where to go for dining in style in Paris. More precisely, it is about Michelin starred restaurants here. This after giving details to a fabulous luxury boutique hotel on my favorite square in town, Place des Vosges, in my last post. It is about Hotel Cours des Vosges, a newly opened high-end lodging in one of the most prestigious neighborhoods in the French capital, the Marais. All the four Michelin starred restaurants in Paris I am going into in the following are located either here or nearby. You can reach them all within twenty minutes walking distance from the accommodation in question.

It is not like that my husband and I have to dine at restaurants with Michelin stars every evening. Yet the selection of great gourmet dining near Hotel Cours des Vosges is enormous! You could stay a month without running out of restaurants within walking distance! And while many of the foodie spots are not exactly inexpensive, there is a great number of such ones which are priced reasonably. When checking out the area as to culinary highlights, I came across of lots of smaller eateries with modern cuisine, often by young chefs. And surprisingly enough, many are Michelin starred too. So, I could no resist and secured reservations at four Michelin one-star restaurants.

While all four dining spots were convincing – I would return to all of them – , I have two favorites, and I start with those.

1. Michelin 1-star Restaurant A.T Paris

5th arrondissement, 1 star Michelin, 16 points Gault Millau, 50 Best Discovery (by the makers of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants)

This small Michelin starred restaurant in the Paris’ Latin Quarter has been part of the city’s high-end culinary scene since 2014.

Here in these minimalist, Nordic inspired interiors you get light food that does not fit in any box.

While chef Atsushi Tanaka is Japanese, he insists that his cuisine is not Japanese. Instead he is influenced by many European cuisines in his cooking. He had worked in Spain, Scandinavia and in France. In addition, he is fond of molecular cuisine as well as Japanese techniques how to prepare food. All these experiences made him develop his own style that is truly unique.

On offer at A.T is a sole tasting menu costing 150€. You can add a wine pairing for 85€, which my husband and I did. It was well worth doing so. It suited us perfect and was served with lots of elan by a knowledgeable sommelier. And the food was grandiose, progressive and artistic likewise! Plus, it was served on beautiful handmade plates.

After three snacks and three amuse bouches they brought us the chef’s signature dish, called camouflage.

This is a mackerel filet buried under solid parsley and fromage blanc powder. And it was like nothing I have ever tasted! Next was some sort of noodle soup but made with squid instead of pasta, which was nothing short than ingenious. The feast was continued with two more sea food courses (lobster and red mullet),

before the meat course came, saddle of lamb. The latter was my least favorite dish, as the meat was barely cooked and not very tender. I was reconciled with two fruity-sweet desserts (mirabelle and timut as well as peach and verbena), which could connect with the previously experienced high quality level again.

2. Restaurant FIEF Paris, Michelin starred

11th arrondissement, 1 star Michelin (new since April 2022), 14 points Gault Millau

Here everything you get is FIEF, Fait Ici En France (Made Here In France). And it is done by a young chef who gained some fame as finalist in the French Top Chef edition of 2018. Victor Mercier is his name and I think that he might become a really big chef!

Here at his contemporary Michelin starred restaurant, opened end of 2019, he already does a great job. He does this visible to his guests as he and his team work in an open cuisine behind a guest corner with eight seats. Here you get the Big Degustation Menu (ten courses for 150€ at 8:00pm). In addition, there are 34 seats in a dining-area. On offer here is either a menu with meat (four courses for 85€) or a vegetarian one (four courses for 70€).

It is highly recommended to go for a seat at the guest corner, which is what my husband and I had intended to do. Unfortunately, they changed their dining concept after their summer break and and our reservation – made before – was wrongly allocated to the dining-room. But never mind, they were able to save the situation! The female maître d’ who had welcomed us seated us at a high table in front of the open cuisine where we could watch all the action. And we got the six-course menu we had signed up for. Plus, they did not charge for the champagne we had to start the dinner! To top it all off, the chef himself brought us almost all the dishes, accompanied by short explanations.

In the end, nothing stood in the way of our experiencing a fantastic dinner, which opened up new worlds of taste to us! The chef has a knack for crafting extremely flavorsome dishes that persuaded in all respects. Already the snacks made our culinary hearts melt. And it went on in the same furious manner: the smallest tomatoes as amuse bouche,

an eggplant variation, a celery creation, mussels and caviar as well as duck as main.

Then it was time for the sweet part: strawberry with fennel, a vegan Pêche Melba, figs and orange blossom ice cream, petit-fours and port wine from Burgundy. An uninterrupted series of highlights!

3. 1-star Michelin Restaurant Auberge Nicolas Flamel Paris

UPDATE: chef left in November 2023, restaurant lost Michelin star in 2024, now Michelin listed

3th arrondissement, 1 star Michelin (new since April 2022), 14 points Gault Millau

I must start by saying that my stomach was a bit upset, when dining at Paris’ oldest dated house (1407).

And this is of course never a good basis for a fair review of a restaurant’s performance. In addition, it was a hot late summer evening, and we were seated right next to a mobile air conditioner on the second floor. While my husband could benefit from a cold draught, I became hot and hotter. When we finally changed places, my husband noted that the air conditioner’s exhaust house was right under my (former) seat. So, the circumstances did not help my enjoying the evening.

Having said that, this should not dissuade you from coming to chef Grégory Garimbay’s new restaurant. Because he is not only a very talented cook but also a charming person. He gave me a nice smile, when we were passing the open cuisine located on the ground floor.

And you are in here not only for a feast for the stomach but also for the eyes. The city’s oldest house underwent a complete renovation in 2021. And it is a true gem, its interiors kept in a modern Scandinavian style without denying its ancient roots (exposed beams, original facade).

Food at this Michelin starred dining spot is immaculately prepared yet not always on the light side. You can choose either from an à la carte menu or opt for the signature menu (five courses 110€, six courses 130€). A specialty of the chef is his virtuosic handling of whole animals. That means, you get here lots of meat in every conceivable way. That already started with the snacks with lots of bacon (in the bone). It went on with tuna belly paired with cucumber. After a meatless course (grey zucchini with pine nuts) it was up to seafood (The most excellent blue lobster!).

Another great dish was the poultry in combination with romaine lettuce. And imagine, there were two surprise dishes along with these two courses showcasing lesser known parts of the animals!

To end the meal, there was a refreshing pre-dessert, a delicious chocolate variation and some nice petit-fours.

4. Restaurant Automne Paris, Michelin starred

Overall

I was astonished to see that there is such an abundance of great Michelin starred restaurants in the Marais area and its neighborhood.

Many of them offer a contemporary dining experience in an equal setting. And mostly you get value for money too. Apart from the ones I chose there are lots of other establishments that appealed to me, but of course we had only four nights. Moreover, we had to juggle things a bit as lots of eateries in Paris are closed on Sunday and Monday. Exceptions here are Restaurant Automne (open on Sunday) and Restaurant FIEF (open on Monday).

Other dining spots that sound promising are for example Le Rigmarole, Septime or L’Initial. If you should have the chance to dine at them, let me know how it was! And also check out my last post about my Paris stay of January 2020. Here I mentioned three more establishments with great food. Especially, I would like to point out Restaurant Alliance (still has a Michelin star)

and Restaurant Contraste (got a Michelin star at the latest awards)!

Date of visits: September 2022

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Paris is my favorite city in the world, and it certainly is the one I have visited most so far. My husband and I even used to live here for a longer period of time, albeit not together. He worked in Paris for a year. After returning, he got me an apartment for my five-month language course from the same landlady he had. And that was the beginning of our Paris’ love. Since this very moment, we have been going to this city on a regular basis. Our last visit dates from January 2020, and so my husband thought it was time to return. Therefore, he booked another stay here, a surprise for my birthday! To my delight, he chose a new luxury hotel located at my favorite square in town, Place des Vosges. And this was Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris.

And I went on the search for great Michelin (starred) restaurants in the area!

Before letting you know details about how it is staying in style at one of most magical spots in the French capital, a few lines about two other related topics. On the one hand, I want to inform you how Paris has been changing in recent years. On the other hand, you might be interested to learn what to do as a repeat visitor to this city. And this especially if you like walking. As to recommendations for great gourmet dining spots near our hotel of choice, they follow in my next post …

How has Paris changed in recent years?

As I have pointed out above, Paris has been a fixed thing on my travel agenda for many decades. Every few years, my husband and I return to it. And so, I think we have developed quite a good feeling how the city has changed over time. As many other popular destinations, Paris has become more crowded with time. Consequently, we had to find ways how to avoid tourists. We mainly do this by not doing the main sights respectively only “touching them” briefly. This is easy if you like walking. In this case, you can leave the masses of tourists behind you. More to this in the next section, before going into details how it is staying at Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris.

Another thing that has become apparent in later years is that Parisians have turned more and more into some sort of “Anglophiles”. English is now an everyday language in the French capital, and this not only in the tourist industry. It has become increasingly difficult to talk to locals in French, even you have a proper command of this language, as my husband has – I have a bit less so. They may start in French, but often in course of the conversation they change to English, sooner rather than later. And this in a city where their residents would not dream of talking to you in another language than French not so long ago!

A last point worthy of note is the fact that you find fewer cars and much more bikes in the inner city nowadays. While many travelers might welcome this development, it does not have good sides only. First of all, you do not hear them coming. Second, you find bike lanes in many one way streets, and this in the reverse direction. Third, too many cyclists think that they do not have to follow traffic rules, in fact almost all. In consequence, you as pedestrian have to be extremely alert when crossing a street or leaving shortly the sidewalk to pass other people. 

After this short anecdotes to Paris, now how to proceed if you want to avoid the hordes of tourists here.

What to do in Paris as a repeat visitor especially if you like walking?

The solution I am going to propose to you only works if you have already done the major sights here and if you are an avid walker. Hike Paris! For this purpose, buy the possibly best trail guide of Paris, the FFRP TopoGuide Paris … à pied! It is produced by the Fédération Française de la Randonnée Pédestre, the French Hiking Association.

This excellent guide lists three crossings through the French capital. The first goes from west to east (Bois de Boulogne

to Bois de Vincennes), the second from north to south (Parc de la Villette

to Parc de Monsouris). And the third stretches from west to east, crescent shaped and only on the right bank of the Seine (Porte Maillot to Porte Dorée, passing by the Montmartre hill).

These trails mostly follow scenic routes yet without neglecting the big sights. The guide contains detailed maps, pathfinding instructions and a wealth of history, culture and sometimes also wildlife information about the various sections of the trail. Short, it is perfect for your Paris hike!

Unfortunately, the FFRP TopoGuide Paris … à pied is only available in French! But also people with little fluency in French can learn to use it, with just a bit of effort.

My husband and I did all the crossings, at least once. However, we always left away the one or other section. But this does not reduce the pleasure! On our recent stay, we did the second crossing again. One one day, we started in the north and ended in the city center, in the Marais

where we stayed. On the other day, we began in the south and hiked all the way to the Seine and to our hotel on the Place des Vosges. What a great way to experience this city and its variety of neighborhoods! And just in case you should be interested, it took us about four hours to finish these two half trails (what would mean about eight hours for the whole crossing).

But now to where to go for staying in style in Paris. And this at Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris, right by the city’s most beautiful square, Place des Vosges.

Hotel Cour de Vosges Paris, luxury boutique hotel with view of Place des Vosges

Prices of luxury hotels in Paris have been skyrocketing in recent years. While we were able to stay at one of the top accommodations in town just as Le Meurice in 2004, this is no longer an option for us. And this is due to rates that we consider as exaggerated. If you opt for the least expensive room here mid-week in shoulder season you have to spend 1,700€ per night!

As a consequence, we usually go for smaller, not that known and recently renovated four to five star establishments, when looking for lodging in Paris. And this time, my husband indeed had a lucky hand when it comes to finding the perfect gem for a short stay in the French capital. He came across the fabulous Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris that was opened in fall 2019!

If you wonder which location to choose for a hotel in Paris, also check out an earlier post of mine.

Location of Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris

Staying at Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris is all about location! While this accommodation does have lots of other assets, its situation on the glorious Place des Vosges is the most outstanding one! This square in the Marais neighborhood in the city’s fourth Arrondissement is not only Paris’ oldest one (inaugurated in 1612) but certainly also one of its most beautiful.

Strolling under the arcades of the lining mansions

or along the paths of the central garden is such a wonderful thing to do.

The square was built on order of King Henry IV. He had decided that all the pavilions surrounding it should be identical, with two exceptions. Now there are 36 of them, built of brick and stone with high, blue slate roofs. One of them, precisely number 19, is the home of Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris.

Ambiance/Staff at Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris

When standing in front of the hotel, you hardly notice that it is one. At first glance, Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris just looks like its 35 ochre-red siblings. On closer inspection, you notice a sign and a heavy door, wedged between a modernist patisserie

and a traditional brasserie. When entering the 17th-century townhouse, you feel like being in a private home, albeit one with an impressive art collection. There is no reception, just a cabinet containing a computer and room keys.

Staff is very accommodative and kind. They seem to employ lots of predominantly young people working part-time. But you get everything from them you need. Yet this is no hotel for people who need pampering and lots of guiding. There are almost no public spaces onsite. You can have your breakfast in the courtyard behind the street door.

Or you can go to the adjoining patisserie that is part of the hotel for this purpose. By the way, you might have noticed the somewhat unfavorable Google reviews of this hotel. Do not be overly impressed by them as they mostly concern this tearoom, which offers rather pricey pastries.

Rooms/Pricing

As this is a 17th-century townhouse, it is constructed in the typical way of this period. There are four floors (plus the ground floor). The second floor (the so-called Bel Étage) is the one with the highest ceiling. You find here the rooms where guests were hosted at the time. As higher as you go in the building, the lower are the ceilings and the more modest are the rooms. At the top, on the fourth floor, you find the former maids’ quarters.

They kept this traditional room pattern at Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris. At the bottom, you find the Deluxe and Superior Suites, a bit higher the Junior Suites, followed by the Deluxe Rooms. And finally, at the top, there are the Superior Rooms. Prices (room only) start for Superior Rooms (26 sqm) at 750€, for Deluxe Rooms (31 sqm) at 890€, for Junior Suites (31 sqm) at 1,100€, for Superior Suites (40 sqm) at 1,300€ and for Deluxe Suites (55 sqm) at 1,400€. We had opted for a Deluxe Room, find details about it in the following.

Deluxe Room: our choice of room at Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris

As you may have noticed in the section before, staying in style at the Places des Vosges Paris has its price. However, I think that the rates can be justified. There is this mesmerizing view of Place des Vosges that you can enjoy from each room. It intrigues you from the moment the first rays of sun fall on the roofs and facades until the shadows grow longer.

The higher up you go in the building, the more the panorama expands. From the third floor, where my husband and I were, your gaze leads above the top of the linden and horse chestnut trees in the garden, which I found just perfect.

On the other hand, I found the room spacious enough and the decor ravishing!

I loved everything here, from the enormous four-poster bed, the seating area around the former fireplace, the table by the window and the generous bathroom with its stand-alone wash basin and tub. A plus was also the separate toilet with wash basin in an antique style.

Each room is unique. But in all of them you find art books stacked high and crystal decanters with whisky and vodka on vintage bar carts for self-service. In terms of materials and colors, steel and terracotta floors go hand in hand with light brown wallpaper and blue seat cushions. For me, the room’s character was harmonic yet at the same time contrasty.

The one thing that might be disadvantageous is the fact that there is only one small window. As we enjoyed sunny weather all the time, this was no issue to us. But I can imagine that this is different in case of a foggy day. If you care for more light, opt for a room on a lower floor where the windows are much larger.

Services/Other facilities at Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris

I already mentioned where you can have breakfast. Another option would be having it in your room. My husband and I chose to take it on the tearoom’s terrace (there is no in-room dining) every morning. It is a branch of the Brach-La Patisserie

serving sweet treats by pastry chef Yann Brys, who was named Meuilleur Ouvrier de France (best craftsman in France). And the croissants and pains au chocolat are truly excellent. But all the rest was convincing too, served from silverware by mostly pleasant staff.

Apart from the tearoom, which closes in the evening, there is no other spot for having something to drink or eat. But this should be no problem as there are lots of bars and restaurants nearby. And if you crave a drink, there is whisky and vodka in your room,

accompanied by all sorts of non-alcoholic beverages in the well-stocked fridge. There is no nicer thing to do than sipping a drink and contemplating this wonderful square at your feet!

As to your wellness, you can have massages in your room and/or you can use the Roman bath downstairs.

We did not get to trying out the latter, yet it looked tempting.

What is next

After all this info on staying in style at Hotel Cour des Vosges Paris, you will soon learn on my blog where to head for Michelin starred dining in the French capital. Come back later to receive all the details! Also check out my last post about Paris from January 2020 where I informed about three top restaurants, two walks and my two favorite squares! One of the latter ones is of course the before mentioned Place des Vosges. And as to the dining spots mentioned in this blogpost, all three still receive good reviews yet the stars among them are Restaurant Alliance (still has a Michelin star) and Restaurant Contraste (got a Michelin star at the latest awards)!

Date of stay: September 2022

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Without knowing it, my husband and I dined at one of France’s iconic culinary institutions! Restaurant La Pyramide in Vienne, south of Lyon, was regarded as the country’s greatest restaurant. And this was under the lead of Fernand Point (from 1925 to 1955). He ranks as one of the fathers of French nouvelle cuisine. His most famous apprentice is none other than Paul Bocuse! Nowadays, chef Patrick Henriroux is the chef at Hotel La Pyramide Vienne. While he does of course not have the same status as Fernand Point, he definitely is an extremely talented cook. He has been holding his two-star Michelin rating for 30 years. My husband and I became fast fans of his modern yet intricate cuisine.

Find out how it is staying and dining at Patrick Henriroux’s pleasant Hotel La Pyramide, south of Lyon. My husband and I had chosen this accommodation for our last stop back home from a trip through north Italy and south France. And it turned out to be more than a worthy place to end a great journey! Before coming to our stay’s details, first some lines to the restaurant’s famous history, Patrick Henriroux’s work here and our Italy/France itinerary.

About La Pyramide’s history

Restaurant De La Pyramide in Vienne, south of Lyon, is nothing short of one of France’s legendary temples of gastronomy. And this is because of Fernand Point who was running it for 30 years. He was among the first chefs awarded three Michelin stars (in 1933). When he died in 1955 at the age of 58, his wife Marie-Luise Paulin, “Mado”, took over. She was able to maintain the restaurant’s high standard until her death in 1986.

When Fernand Point started his culinary career, the classic French cuisine was still en vogue, based on Auguste Escoffier. However, Fernand Point seeked change. He revolutionized the traditional French high cuisine by purifying and simplifying it. His modern approach was well received. Soon, La Pyramide became an obligatory stop for Europe’s great families on the Route Nationale 7, the vacation route between Paris and the border with Italy.

His peers called him the king. Paul Bocuse, Alain Chapel or Jean and Pierre Troisgros among others were his apprentices. During his reign over French cuisine there were few important celebrities and serious gourmets who did not make the journey to have dinner at La Pyramide. To this day, this restaurant has been the only one holding three Michelin stars for 53 years!

About Patrick Henriroux Hotel la Pyramide Vienne

After Fernand Point’s wife passed away, their adopted daughter sold the property to an estate company (in 1988), which started a renovation project. They added a 23-bedroom hotel, a new restaurant space, a garden and a covered terrace. And they were looking for a new chef, too. Several ones refused, save an upcoming young chef from the south of France, Patrick Henriroux. He did make a name for himself at Restaurant La Ferme de Mougins near Cannes, where he got a Michelin star.

He started in Vienne in 1989. Seven months later, he got his first Michelin star. In 1992, he earned his second one, which he has been holding ever since. In 1998, Patrick Henriroux and his wife Pascale got the chance to purchase the property and went for it. A year later, the hotel and restaurant became a member of the prestigious Relais & Châteaux hotel group. Standing still is not the couple’s thing. The restaurant has received two facelifts since they bought it. And they opened a casual bistro on the premises, l’Espace PH3. Two of their three children also work in the family business, Leslie Henriroux-Rineau as front office manager and Boris Henriroux as assistant general manager.

As to Patrick Henriroux’s background, he is the son of dairy farmers. In his childhood, he was a great fan of his grandmother’s cooking skills. After finishing hotel school, he worked under several of France’s leading chefs, most notably Georges Blanc. When he came to La Pyramide, he did not want this restaurant going like some sort of museum. Quite the opposite, he did change and evolve on a constant basis. His cooking style is contemporary yet without denying its roots in the traditional French cuisine. The food he prepares is complex, the platings are elaborate and the flavors are authentic. And he makes use of the Rhône valley’s bounty. And of course, you get here also the fine wines from the region.

Trip itinerary northern Italy & southern France

Our 11-day journey through northern Italy and southern France brought us not only to many great hotels but also to such restaurants. When traveling, my husband and I like staying at luxury lodging and dining at gourmet spots. While we do not aim to chase Michelin stars at any price, it usually results in nothing different than counting them at the end of a trip (there were seven this time). It seems we are gourmet travelers who cannot be helped any other way. And it became worse during the pandemic, confined to exploring more or less our backyards. Be it as is may, now to our itinierary. Please note that – despite an occasional splurge – we make sure that we get value for money. We try to avoid paying excessive prices.

We started in northern Italy in the Lake Orta region, near the Swiss border, with staying and dining at Villa Crespi (two Michelin stars, my posts about hotel and activities).

Then we went south, first to Piedmont’s wine region around Alba (Relais San Maurizio, one Michelin star, accommodation/things to do), then to Alassio on the Italian Riviera (Villa della Pergola, one Michelin star, my report plus what do do in the area). After passing the border to France, we stayed at Château Saint-Martin in the French Rivera hills (one Michelin star, hotel/activities). Before we came to Vienne south of Lyon, we had one more halt in the Provence near Les Baux-de-Provence. Here we settled for a relaxed boutique hotel (Hotel B Design with Nancy Bourguignon Restaurant), see my post about it and things to do here.

Staying in style at Patrick Henriroux Hotel La Pyramide Vienne

Location

As mentioned, you find Patrick Henriroux Hotel La Pyramide in Vienne, some 30 km/18 mi south of Lyon, in southeastern France. You reach it by car in about 25 minutes, by train in about 19 minutes from the country’s second largest city. The town is in the Rhône valley on the “Route du Midi” (route to the south), along the famous Route Nationale 7.

Hotel La Pyramide is located south of Vienna’s town center. You get to the latter in a 7-minute-walk. And it is well worth doing this, especially to have a look at the town’s rich historical heritage from Roman times. Do not miss the Roman Temple

or the Roman Theater.

Yet you do not have to go far to see one of the major monuments in this respect. The Roman Pyramid is just in front of Hotel La Pyramide. At the time, it marked the turn of a chariot racetrack. And of course the restaurant/hotel is named after it.

As to its situation, it is set in a residential neighborhood. From its look, it is a small country house in a quiet garden behind a high wall, as it has been for over a hundred years.

Rooms/Pricing

On offer here are 19 rooms, completely renovated in 2005, or 4 apartments. As to the rooms, you can book a Deluxe Room (30 sqm), either with Garden View or without. Rates start from 200 € (without Garden View) resp. 215 € (with Garden View). Apartments are available from 360 € (Standard Apartment, 50 sqm) resp. 400 € (Deluxe Apartment, 50 sqm).

My husband and I went for a Deluxe Room Twin with a Shower,

which cost us 314 € at the beginning of September, midweek. We also opted for the breakfast (30 € per person), which was delicious.

Everything was served and of exceptional quality. While our room was not really spacious, it was cleverly furnished. We had the impression of being in a larger accommodation than the advertised 30 sqm. It was well appointed in a contemporary style and equipped with everything you need for an overnight stay. There was even a sweet treat for us to indulge in. With regard to the bathroom, it was sizable with double sinks and a large shower.

I found the cost–benefit ratio at Hotel Pyramide very favorable!

Ambiance/Staff

Upon arrival, we were cared for by kind and attentive staff. A nice lady (Leslie Henriroux-Rineau?) directed us in the parking lot and accompanied us to the reception area where we got all the necessary information. When we were having a look around on the premises later – the garden is nice – , everyone we met was friendly and helpful. The same was true for our dinner. We were cordially welcomed and seated on the lovely terrace. And here we enjoyed a service that was excellent from start to finish.

The ambiance at Hotel Patrick Henriroux’s La Pyramide was relaxed and unpretentious, throughout our stay. And this cannot be taken for granted in France where upscale dining spots quite often tend to be somewhat stuffy.

Facilities/Restaurants

While La Pyramide has everything for a pleasant short stay, it is not the place with lots of facilities. First and foremost, you come here for the good food. There is a pleasant garden where you can take a few steps, that is it.

I have read about the opportunity to use a nearby fitness room under the website’s section of special offers, but there was no mention of it on our stay. When it comes to restaurants however, you can choose among two of them.

On the one hand, there is the signature dining-spot, the gastronomic Restaurant La Pyramide with Patrick Henriroux’s two-star Michelin cuisine on offer. Find below more details. On the other hand, there is the casual Espace PH3 Bistro,

which was opened in 2009. Here is everything about the number Three, three starters, three main courses, three desserts etc. I liked the style here (we only had breakfast here), it is modern and playful at the same time. And its outdoor area is great, the tables are scattered in the large garden.

After outlining what you can expect in terms of staying at La Pyramide, now to the dinner experience at Patrick Henriroux’s La Pyramide.

Dining in style at Patrick Henriroux 2-star Michelin Restaurant La Pyramide Vienne

Before coming to the food, some words to the setting here. When my husband and I dined here, the weather was nice and hot, so we could eat outside on the pleasant covered terrace.

We were lead through the interior restaurant to reach the outdoor area but I have no picture of it. It is kept contemporary in black, grey and yellow. While the walls, curtains, floor and a part of the chairs are dark, some of the the latter are upholstered in yellow. And the water glasses and some other things are yellow, too. For my taste, I found it a bit on the dark side and slightly bizarre, but it is original for sure. As to the terrace, it is modern, too. They left the beautiful trees but installed a concrete slab floor around them. For me, it is a bit cold. And again, you find the colors of black and yellow here.

Now to the food we had.

Colors-Smells-Flavors Pyramide (3 to 5 courses, 159 to 189 €)

When we dined here on a Monday evening, there was a seven-course tasting menu on offer. You could make your choice out of either five, six or seven courses (159, 176 or 189 €), which – I found – was price wise appropriate. And a cheese selection from a cart and a dessert were an integral part of it.

My husband and I opted for the five-course option. Already when we got the snacks, we knew we were in for a treat!

And that was confirmed when getting the first course, a huge piece of foie gras confit en lobe. There was a transparent cover, made with strawberry juices. And it was paired with blackcurrant puree and a brioche.

Next was a fish course that came in two parts. Frist, there was a monk fish, roasted with semi-salted butter and accompanied by young leek.

Second, we got a mussel from the Bretagne in unison with cream from Etrez in the Bresse region.

Superb!

Before the main dish, we were treated to a surprise course. It was a creamy creation made of goat cheese and tomato,

if I am right.

We proceeded with lamb that stemmed from a registered trademark (Allaiton from Aveyron),

and it was grandiose! It came as a roulade and as a ball. The latter was made of the thinly sliced shoulder part. The meat came in a combination with chickpeas, aromatized with lemon and peppers, and sheep’s yoghurt with green harissa.

Then it was time for cheese! And the cheese selection from the cart

was really impressive, everything from the region!

For dessert, they brought us a separate menu with four propositions in the two categories of “Chocolate” and “Fruits”. And for the interested guests, also the names of the two head patissiers appeared, Anthony Fresnay and Taïra Kawamura. Everything sounded promising, from the Chocolate Piano (new generation, dark and gold sorbet, toasted coffee sauce) to the Rhubarb (au natural, cooked and raw, crystallized violet petal and red shiso yogurt emulsion). My husband and I chose Chocolat Macaé, a dark chocolate soufflé in a sable tartlet and with cream d’Etrez, paired with a cocoa bean juice sorbet. It was heavenly!

The feast was rounded up with two series of petit fours.

The bottom line is simple, it was definitely the best meal of our Italy and France journey!

Overall Patrick Henriroux Hotel La Pyramide Vienne

If you are serious gourmet and look for the ideal stopover halfway between Paris and the French Riviera, then Patrick Henriroux Hotel La Pyramide Vienne is the perfect choice. It is located south of Lyon just off the north/south highway, the famous Route Nationale 7.

You find here not only a foodie destination, the two-Michelin starred La Pyramide Restaurant, but also super friendly hosts. In addition, there are comfortable, modernly furnished guest rooms, reasonably rated, at your disposal. If you are into the mood of a lighter, less formal dinner, then maybe opt for the casual bistro on the premises.

And while enjoying your meal in either of those places, let your thoughts wander to the time when the legendary chef Fernand Point was in charge here. He is regarded as one of the fathers of the French nouvelle cuisine and established at this very spot one of France’s greatest restaurants ever.

Looking back and forward

This is the last of of 11 posts about a 11-day trip that my husband and I took in northern Italy and southern France. This journey brought us not only to the Italian regions of Piedmont and Liguria, followed by the French Riviera and the Provence, but also to some of the best luxury hotels and Michelin star restaurants in these areas. While it was not our primary goal to dine at as many Michelin starred dining-spots as possible, we managed – to our amazement – seven Michelin stars in total!

What is next in terms of travel? After this first longer trip abroad to Italy and France, my husband and I boarded an airplane again after a Corona imposed time out of two years! And it was due to Madeira, Portugal’s island in the North Atlantic Ocean off the African coast.

I will report about this place in general before going into where to head here for staying and dining in style.

Date of stay: September 2021

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Upscale lodging and gourmet dining in the Provence are plentiful. If you feel like staying and dining in style here without overspending, it is much more difficult. A good choice in this regard is Hotel B Design & Spa in Paradou, close to the very touristy village of Les Baux-de-Provence. It is perfect for a laid-back luxurious escape with impressive guest rooms and Michelin dining at the in-house restaurant. And it is conveniently located for excursions in the area. Two great things to do are – among others – a walk to the aforementioned small town or a visit to nearby Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. I will come to that in detail later. Before, I will go into how it is staying and dining in style in the Provence at Hotel B Design & Spa.

First, a few lines to the Provence in general.

About the Provence

This region in the southeast of France is full of natural wonders and man-made attractions. In my humble opinion, it is one of the most beautiful places in this country. As to its boundaries, they are not really fixed. While some include the French Riviera (see my post about two top walks here), others do not. I would support the latter. On the west side, the Provence starts east of the Rhône river; then I would draw two lines, one north from Saint Tropez and one east of Orange. And the border on the northeast corner is where they meet.

If you wonder what is special about the Provence, I can tell you it is much about the sensual experience here. You come to this region in France’s southeast because of the lavender fields, the olive trees or the vineyards. Yet there are also the A-towns of Avignon, Arles and Aix or the mountainous regions just as the Luberon or the Alpilles. And there is more, the Verdon Gorge, France’s deepest canyon, or the Calanques National Park on the Mediterranean.

As to the best time to come here, it is either in spring or in fall. Do not come here in July and August as it is the busiest time with lots of French vacationers from the north. If you want to see the lavender fields, it is advisable to do so in the second half of June. Their peak is from early to mid-July, but then it is high season, too.

When my husband and I visited the Provence recently, after quite a few stays in different parts of this gorgeous region in the past, we stayed in the Alpilles.

About the Alpilles

The Alpilles can be translated as small Alps. It is a rocky limestone chain with low peaks and dry valleys about 25 km/16 mi south of Avignon. In terms of towns here, there are 16 of them. The most known are probably Les Baux-de-Provence and Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. All of them are part of the Parc Natural Regional des Alpilles (Nature Park of the Alpilles).

When it comes to activities here, there is much to do as to hiking or cycling. Yet there are also towns worth visiting, apart from the two already mentioned. Sadly, we did not have time to explore further. From what I read, Eygalières seems to be the most beautiful village here. And Mouriès is supposed to be the leading olive oil producer in France.

For our stay in the Alpilles we chose the village of Paradou. It is a charming town with about 2,000 inhabitants, between Avignons and Arles.

About our trip, where the stay in the Provence was part of

My husband and I travelled in 11 days through north Italy and south France (itinerary), starting and ending the trip in Switzerland. Our first destination was Piedmont, where we opted for a stay in the region’s north (hotel/activities) and one near Alba (accommodation/things to do). After one more stay on the Italian Riviera (lodging/what do do), we proceeded to the French Riviera (hotel/activities) before coming to the Provence. One more stop followed, south of Lyon.

Always when going on a trip, we are into staying and dining in style. And this was not any different on this one. But we only go for establishments where we think we get value for the money spent on them.

Staying and dining in style at Hotel B Design & Spa in Paradou

As you know by know, we opted for Hotel B Design & Spa in Paradou for our stay in the Provence. Find hereafter what do expect in terms of lodging and dining when coming here.

Location

As pointed out, the luxury hotel with gourmet restaurant is in the heart of the Nature Park of the Alpilles, and this in the village of Paradou. The hotel is close to the town center, you can reach it in a ten-minute walk. While it is a pleasant place with a historic core, there are not really many sights here worth the detour. Having said that, the main attraction in the area, Les Baux-de-Provence, one of the most beautiful villages in France, is in its immediate neighborhood (ten-minute drive). Alternatively, there is a rewarding walk that brings you in 1 ¼ hours to this stunning place. Details follow later on.

About Hotel B Design & Spa’s origin story

Hotel B Design & Spa is privately owned by the Bourguignon family, originally coming from Belgium. André and Nancy Bourguignon left their home country back in 1996 in search of a piece of land in the Provence to open their own hotel. André Bourguignon had been familiar with the hotel and restaurant industry since childhood. He was editor, journalist, restaurateur and hotel consultant, and now he wanted to be a hotel owner. The couple found the ideal location for their dream project in Paradou. In 1998, they opened their first hotel, the four-star Côte des Olivades,

a typical Provencal accommodation. André and Nancy’s daughter Vanessa is also involved in the family business, and this as hotel manager.

Nancy Bourguignon became chef at the hotel restaurant more or less by chance. On some occasion, there were hotel guests who wanted to have a late dinner. And this was at a time, where the chef had already left. Nancy had a leg of lamb in her refrigerator and decided to prepare it for the unexpected clientèle. It turned out to be a complete success! That was the start of her career as a chef. She learnt the job by doing. For some time, she also had an experienced chef at her side to learn from. And nowadays, her restaurant is listed in the Michelin guide!

Once the Hotel Côte des Olivades was established, André Bourguignon decided to build a second hotel, just right to the existing one. This was back in 2003, and it should be a modern five-star establishment. It was finally done in 2009, after some obstacles to overcome, under the lead of Parisian designer Christophe Pillet.

Ambiance/Staff

While the original hotel (Côte des Olivades) has more or less the typical look of a Mas Provencal, B Design & Spa is a contemporary building in a minimalist style. Although both hotels are separately run (two websites), they are somewhat linked to each other. The five-star B Design & Spa has neither a reception nor a restaurant. You have to go to the four-star Côte des Olivades for checking in and having breakfast. Having said that, the properties are separated (by doors to open with your room key) and feature their own outdoor pools.

Whereas the guest rooms at Hotel B Design & Spa are definitely on a five-star level (more to this latter in this post), the feel while checking in or having breakfast, is not so. Staff is friendly and helpful yet that certain something that comes with staying at a luxury lodging is missing. Nevertheless, we had a pleasant stay and would consider returning, especially for the great room we had.

Rooms/Pricing at Hotel B Design & Spa

On site you find 15 guest rooms. You can choose among four categories at Hotel B Design & Spa: Designer Room with Shower (24 sqm), Designer Room (48 sqm), Designer Suite (66 sqm) and Family Suite (88 sqm).

My husband and I opted for the Designer Suite, and we liked what we got.

These accommodations are expansive with a generous living area, a spacious bathroom

and a sizable balcony.

In terms of style, they are uncompromisingly modern, kept in white, grey and black.

The one thing I did not especially like was the south-facing balcony. While it was large (30 sqm), we could not use it in day-time because it was fully exposed to the sun. In addition, the view from here is unremarkable (quiet road, the one or other house through trees). It seems that the rooms directed to the north are more favorable as to views (hotel gardens, Alpilles mountain range).

With regard to the rates, we paid 640 € per day and room without breakfast. In case you want to include the latter, there is an extra charge of 50 € for two persons. Alternatively, you can book a half board arrangement (235 € for two). This entitles you to breakfast (cold and hot dishes) and three courses from a daily changing dinner menu at the Michelin listed Nancy Bourguignon Restaurant. If you should be interested in the dinner experience, please have a look at the section below.

Facilities at Hotel B Design & Spa

There is a 250 sqm spa on site featuring a fitness room, hammam, sensory pool and cold water foot path.

In addition, you find here two outdoor swimming pools, one on the premises of Hotel B Design & Spa,

the other in the adjoining Hotel Côte des Olivades. While the former is for the sole use of hotel guests at Hotel B Design & Spa, the other – which is larger – is for both hotels.

Furthermore, there are the lovely gardens with lots of hundred-year-old olive trees and other Mediterranean plants with the one or other contemplative place for a rest.

Restaurant Nancy Bourguignon

I already went into how chef Nancy Bourguignon happened to become a chef (About Hotel B Design & Spa’s origin story) and the half board option you can book here as hotel guest (Rooms/Pricing at Hotel B Design & Spa).

Restaurant Nancy Bourguignon is located at Hotel Côte des Olivades and features indoor

as well as outdoor dining.

On our stay, we were able to have dinner outside on both evenings. The setting is nice, with view of the gardens and the swimming pool. In my view, the tables are rather close together, but as we were seated at the edge of the place, we did not mind.

On offer here are well-made dishes that may be not overly creative yet made out of market-fresh ingredients. Everything that goes into them is carefully selected and locally sourced. You can make your choice from a small menu (4 to 5 starters, 3 mains, 3 desserts, 1 cheese). Restaurant Nancy Bourguignon is listed in the Michelin Guide and has 12 points in the Gault Millau Guide.

On both evenings, we were served a tasty soup as amuse-bouche.

Great starters were the foie gras or the mullet fish as sashimi with turnip, radishes and rhubarb.

As mains, the sole filets with a celery variation

or the semi-cooked Simmental beef with candid onions and beef jus knew to persuade. Desserts were superb, either the crispy Carambar variation (Carambar is a caramel candy, a known brand in France) or the soufflé Grand-Marnier.

Two top things to do in the Provence’s Nature Park of the Alpilles

1. Walk from Paradou to Les Baux-de-Provence

One of the must-do activities in the Provence is a trip to Les Baux-de-Provence. This medieval town between Arles and Avignon, sitting on a rocky spur, is quite a sight. It is considered to be one of the most beautiful villages in France and attracts more than 1.5 million visitors each year. It is advisable to come here in the low season and either early in the morning or late in the evening. If you drive here by car (8 min from Hotel B Design & Spa Paradou), be prepared to park it quite some distance away.

If you happen to stay in Paradou, I have a much better way to reach this stunning place than by car. Make a walk to Les Baux-de-Provence. By doing this, you have the chance to experience the beautiful landscape and the nature of the Alpilles. I found it amazing how lots of wild thym and rosemary bushes grow here. You can watch how Les Baux-de Provence comes closer to you. First, you cannot distinguish it from the rest of the mountains and later it materializes in front of you in its full size. And last but not least, you arrive in the village without the hassle of finding a parking lot. Here is how to to proceed.

Directions from Paradou to Les Baux-de-Provence by foot

Paradou – Nature Park of the Alpilles – Les Baux-de-Provence – Nature Park of the Alpilles – Paradou

Duration: 2 ¼ hours / Ascent: about 150 m/492 ft. / Lenght: about 7.4 km/4.6 mi, inspired by Outdooractive (outward/return)

Outward way (consult the outward map)

We started at our hotel, B Design & Spa in Paradou (marked on the maps from Outdooractive – see link above – as Du Côté des Olivades). Walk along Vieux Maussane until to the crossing with Avenue Jean-Marie Cornille. Take the latter in the left direction. On the next crossing, turn left into Mérigot de la Remise. Follow it until you reach Chemin de Bourgeac, turn right and cross the Canal de la Vallée des Baux. Almost immediately after this, turn right into the undergrowth. From here you follow the narrow path that goes up. It crosses a mountain chain, there is only a small gap that allows you to come to the other side.

When you reach a high plain where you can view the village of Les Baux-de-Provence the first time (it merges with the horizon), you turn right.

From here on, you have your aim in sight all the time. And you become aware how dramatic its setting really is! When you have a look at the Outdooractive map (outward), then you notice that it ends right before climbing up to Les Baux-de-Provence. My husband and I decided to go up from the western side (and returning via the eastern one). Walk on until you reach stairs leading up to the village.

Les Baux-de Provence

Once arrived by foot from Paradou, you start to appreciate its setting on a rocky outcrop even more. It is quite different to reach Les Baux-de-Provence not from the over-crowded parking lot but from further away.

Have a walk around the site.

As announced, high likelihood are that you are not on your own. Do not miss the relatively quiet corner of the Eglise Saint Vincent and the Chapelles des Pénitents Blanc.

Maybe also consider visiting the Château des Baux-de-Provencec (for a fee). A good place for a quick bite is Café Les Baux Jus with freshly squeezed juices and snacks.

Return way (consult the return map)

My husband and I left the village through its north gate by the tourist office and then went along Rue Porte Mage until the lower parking lot (where the roadside parking begins). After crossing it there is a dirt road going south below the village. After you have passed a group of houses, turn into the path on your left side. When you reach a crossing, take the dirt road to your right. On the next but one crossing, make a sharp turn to the left and follow the road.

After some time, you see a group of houses in front of you. Go left and immediately afterwards right again (the group of houses are on your left). You are now on Gaudre du Trible and have reached the golf course. Soon you get to Hotel Domaine de Manville. Pass it (it is on your left side) and follow Gaudre du Trible until the next crossing. Turn into Route des Baux on your left side and later into Avenue Jean Marie Cornille, also on the left hand side. On the next crossing, walk straight ahead until Vieux Maussane. Turn right and after a few steps, you are at Hotel B Design & Spa resp. Du Côté des Olivades again!

After these longish directions about walking to Les Baux-de-Provence from Paradou and back, here one more (brief) tip what to do in the area.

2. Visit the town of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence

A charming small town to go from Paradou is Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. You reach it in a 20-minute drive, when being on your way to Avignon. Before heading to the town center, stop at the Saint Paul de Mausole Monastery.

This is the mental health asylum where the famous painter Vincent Van Gogh spent a year shortly before his death.

Make a self-guided tour through the premises and do no leave out the gardens.

Afterwards, proceed to town and explore the lovely Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. Stroll through its narrow alleys that are lined with beautifully restored buildings. And make a stop one time or the other when catching sight of a scenic square

or a charming café,

which are plentiful.

Overall

In search of a place for staying and dining in style in the Provence, Hotel B Design & Spa in Paradou is a good choice. First, it is centrally located half way between two of the major towns in this region in south France, Avignon and Arles. Second, this premium lodging is close to one of the Provence’s hotspots, the historic rock village of Les Baux-de-Provence. If you like walking, you can even reach it by foot, and this is worth it!

As to how it is staying and dining at Hotel B Design & Spa, you have to know that the accommodation is rather a solid four-star than a five-star – however the rooms are super stylish. This is because it is associated with another accommodation, the first-class Hotel Du Côte des Olivades. Do not expect to be pampered here yet seriously good food is for sure.

Looking back and looking forward

Actually, the stay in the Provence was the last stop in the area my husband and I wanted to explore, north Italy and south France. But we preferred to make one more halt on our way back to Switzerland. And coming from the country’s south, Lyon and its surroundings is usually ideal for this purpose. So, we settled for the town of Vienne,

south of France’s second largest city. This because I had come upon a two-star Michelin restaurant with guest rooms here. Find more about this fabulous stay in my next and – at the same time – my last blogpost about this journey (itinerary).

Before coming to the Provence, we were in the French Riviera hills (hotel/things to do), the Italian Rivera (accommodation/activities) and in two spots in Piedmont, one in this region’s north (lodging/what to do) near Switzerland and the other in the wine region around Alba (hotel/activities). Everywhere we stopped, we strived for staying and dining in style, but only when we found that it was worth the cost.

Date of stay: September 2021

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The French Riviera or the Côte d’Azur – as it is also called – is the Mediterranean coastline in France’s southeast corner. This “Azure Coast” has been one of the country’s most popular travel destinations, and this since the late 1800s. The stretch of land extending from Saint-Tropez in the west to the France-Italy border in the east is known as the playground for the rich and famous. While you usually come here for the beaches, it is also possible to do walks in the area. While there are also such ones on the French Riviera coast, there are more options in the hilly hinterland. You can even combine walking and exploring as there are lots of picturesque towns in the Côte d’Azur hills. Here are two top walks in the French Riviera that are worth doing – and quite easy at the same time.

Before diving into this subject, a few more lines about the French Riviera and the exact area that I checked out as to walking opportunities.

About the French Riviera resp. Côte d’Azur

I already mentioned that the area between Saint-Tropez and the France-Italy border is called French Riviera resp. Côte d’Azur. But you have to know that there is no official boundary on the west side. Some say it is Saint-Tropez, others claim that it goes further west to Le Lavandou or even to Toulon. Be it as it may, it is for sure a beautiful coast.

Tourism started early here. Britons came here already at the end of the 18th century. Not much time later, the Russians joined them. Then, in the first half of the 1900s, the French Riviera developed to a magnet for artists and writers. And finally, since the second half of the 20th century, it has become a popular seaside destination attracting French people from the north yet also tourists from all over the world. With its popularity, prices for staying and dining have climbed to dizzying heights, especially during summer. And getting around in this time has become a nightmare.

Notwithstanding the above facts, it is still a worthwhile destination to go, but avoid traveling here in July and August. The area is much too busy in summer time. And go inland every now and then. It is worth this effort. If you like walking, all the better. This allows you to avoid the crowds.

Now to the exact part where you find these two top walks in the French Riviera my husband and I did. On our recent north Italy/south France trip, we stayed two days in the region, and this in Vence near Nice resp. Antibes. Therefore, we picked out one walk in Vence

and one on the nearby Cap d’Antibes, on the water’s edge.

About Vence, near Nice & Antibes, & surroundings

Vence is a historic town in the French Riviera hills and belongs to the Métropole Nice Côte d’Azur. You reach this pretty medieval walled commune in half an hour by car from either Nice or Antibes. Alternatively, you get here by train and bus from these two cities, changing in Cagnes-sur-Mer.

As to Cap d’Antibes, you probably find more millionaires here than elsewhere on the French Riviera. It really is a wonderful spot and at the same time relatively close to Nice and Cannes. There are lots of beautiful properties on site, most of them behind fences. In terms of beaches, you are not spoilt for choice, due to the rocky coast.

Two top walks around Vence and Antibes

While the first walk starts in Vence itself, the other is near Antibes, the oldest town on the Côte d’Azur. The tour in Vence  brings you to the area’s tourist hotspot, the small village of Saint-Paul-de-Vence.

The other trail involves a ten-minute drive from Antibes. Precisely, you have to head to Cap d’Antibes, to Plage de la Garoupe.

1. Vence to Saint-Paul-de Vence (easy to medium walk)

Vence – Saint-Paul-de-Vence – Vence

Duration: 2 hours / Ascent: 201 m/660 ft. / Lenght: 5.8 km/3.6 mi, inspired by Outdooractive

This tour is a great way to explore two lovely towns, Vence

on the one hand and Saint-Paul-de-Vence on the other hand. Both of them go back to the Middle Ages and still have their fortress walls. While the former is a pleasant small town, not especially geared to travelers, the latter is a popular tourist destination. The village of Saint-Paul-de-Vence

is smaller than Vence and seems to consist almost only of galleries, souvenir shops and restaurants.

Before you start your walk, have a look around the medieval walled center of Vence. Afterwards, head to the Place du Maréchal Juin to access to the trailhead. It leads first through inhabited area, before you come to a forest. After crossing Le Malvan creek, go straight ahead. Take the first turn to the left and walk until you reach a paved road. Turn into it and follow it to the next crossing. Turn left and just afterwards take the path on your right side that leads parallel to the paved route to Saint-Paul-de-Vence.

Either go on until you reach this popular village or make a short detour to the Fondation Maeght

first. This is a private museum of modern art. A visit is well worth for lovers of 20th-century arts

and modern architecture (building). The path going to Saint-Paul-de-Vence ends at the Chapelle Sainte-Claire.

From here, you are steps away from the stunning  yet somewhat over-touristed village.

After having a look around, go back the same way to Vence or take an alternative route as my husband and I did. When returning, pass the Chapelle Sainte-Claire and walk along the Route de Vence until a path turns right. After some time, it leads along the Malvan creek. At this point, you have two possibilities. Either go the path all the way along the creek until you turn into the trail described before (to Saint-Paul-de-Vence). Alternatively, turn right, crossing a bridge,

as we did. This brings you to the Ancien Chemin de Saint-Paul. Make your way back to Vence’s town center (Chemin de la Pouiraque – Route de Cagnes – Chemin du Camp – Avenue du Colonel Meyere).

2. Le Sentier du Littoral on the Cap d’Antibes (easy walk)

Plage de la Garoupe (Cap d’Antibes) – Bay of Antibes Billionaires – Plage de la Garoupe (Cap d’Antibes)

Duration: 1 ½ hours / Ascent: 61 m/200 ft. / Length: 4.7 km/2.9 mi, inspired by Outdooractive

The starting point is Plage de la Garoupe, one of the few beaches in the area. There is a large parking lot where you can leave your car. When reaching the water front, turn right. Pass the beach club and turn left into the Sentier du Littoral Tirepoil.

From here, you always walk along the rugged coast, which is beautiful with great views of the Mediterranean. But be prepared, you will be not on you own as the path is popular.

Follow the trail to its very end, where you find the splendide Bay of Antibes Billionaires.

If you have some time left, visit Villa Eilen Roc – we sadly had to give it a pass. To return to the start, walk along Avenue Mrs Beaumont. When you reach Avenue de la Tour Gandolphe to your right, take it and walk until the next crossing. Here turn into Anvenue André Sella to reach Plage de la Garoupe again. From the point where you leave the trail you cross a very rich neighborhood, although most of it is befind fences. Therefore, there is not much to see. If you do the trail on a not so busy time (the path is narrow), I would consider returning along the coast again.

Looking back and forward

On our 11-day trip through northern Italy and south of France we had two stays in Piedmont, one in this region’s north near Switzerland (hotel/activities) and one near Alba in the Langhe wine area (hotel/activities). After that, we headed to Liguria on the Italian Riviera (hotel/activities) before crossing the border to France. Here we had two stops, one in the French Riviera hills (hotel/2 walks) and the other in the Provence. On our way back to Switzerland we made one more halt south of Lyon. Wherever we went, we wanted to stay and dine in style. That means we chose luxury hotels and Michelin fine dining as long as they offered value for money.

Next on my blog, you will learn about a premium hotel in the Provence (in Paradou) and a walk my husband and I did from here to Les Baux-de-Provence, one of the most visited villages in the area.

Date of visit: September 2021

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Staying and dining in style on the French Riviera usually comes with a hefty price tag. This is especially true for beachfront hotels. As my husband and I were not ready to pay the excessive prices they ask for in this area, we settled on a luxury hotel a bit away from the sea on our recent Italy/France trip. And this was Château Saint-Martin in the hilltops of Nice resp. Antibes. It has a Michelin starred restaurant and sea views, although from far away. Last but not least, Château Saint-Martin in the French Riviera hills is also a historic property that goes back to the 1150s!

Before coming to how it is staying and dining in style in the hilltops of the Côte d’Azur, here a wrap-up of the recent journey we did in northern Italy and southern France.

North Italy and south France 11-day itinerary

Piedmont in northern Italy was the first destination. The start made Lake Orta (my hotel post, my activities post), adjacent to  Switzerland. Then it went to Alba, where you find one of Italy’s famous wine regions (where to stay, what to do). Next was the Italian Riviera around Alassio (my hotel post, my activities post), our first stay on the sea

since two years – due to Corona. And from here, it is not far to the French Riviera, where we went inland a bit. First, to the French Riviera hills near Nice resp. Antibes (hotel/two walks), then to the Provence, in the immediate neighborhood of Les Baux-de-Provence. On our way back to Switzerland, we made one more stop south of Lyon.

Everywhere we went, we opted for luxury hotels and Michelin restaurants. But we did only so in case they are worth the price tag.

Staying in style at Château Saint-Martin in the French Riviera hills

Location

Château Saint-Martin is located in the hinterland of Nice resp. Antibes. I think calling this area the French Riviera hills is quite appropriate.

From the mentioned cities on the coast, you can reach it in about 25 minutes by car. If you want to come here by using public transport, it is an option. You need about about 45 minutes to an hour, taking the train first to Cagnes-sur-Mer and then changing to the bus.

The luxury Château towers high above the medieval town of Vence.

This is a really pretty place that deserves a visit from the coast. Its old town, complete with walls, is atmospheric yet untouristy. Meandering trough its picturesque alleys is a great thing to do.

History of Château Saint-Martin in the French Riviera hills

Château Saint-Martin in the French Rivera hills was built as a castle for the Templar commandery back in the 1100s. Later on, in the 1900s, a Polish count bought the domain in ruins and rebuilt it. You still find traces of the original ruins onsite, which are listed as monument in the the French historical register.

The Château found a new owner, a Parisian businessman, in 1935. Some twenty years later, he turned it into a hotel. In 1994, the hotel passed into the hands of the Oetker family and is now a part of the prestigious Oetker Collection.

If you wonder about the Oetker family and their hotel group, a few lines about this topic follow right now.

Oetker Collection

The Oetker Group is one of the largest family-run businesses in Germany. They got rich in the food industry. Their Oetker Collection hotel group was established in 2008. At the time, they already owned a handful of luxury hotels. It all began in 1941, when a member of the family purchased the Brenners Park-Hotel in Baden-Baden/Germany. Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc in Cap d’Antibes joined it in 1969. The third one was Le Bristol in Paris, in 1978. And next was Château Saint-Martin in 1994.

Nowadays, the Oetker Collection counts seven more hotels. The newest additions are The Woodward in Geneva (2020) and Hotel La Palma in Capri (2021).

Ambiance/Staff

The property is huge, sprawling on 14 hectares/34 acres, especially if you consider its hilltop location.

As a consequence, there is lots of space so that guests should not get in each other’s way. Château Saint-Martin in the French Rivera hills is a member of the renowned The Leading Hotels of the World and therefore a magnet for English spoken travelers. And there were many of them on our stay. I do not think that we met any guests coming from France. That was a bit of a pity because I think that the absence of locals at a hotel make it some kind of interchangeable. In such a way, it could be anywhere in the world.

Staff was friendly, attentive and professional at all times. The standard of service never failed to impress. The only thing I disliked was the fact that we were almost always addressed in Englisch although my husband and I can speak French. Some of the staff remembered it, others did not. But otherwise there is nothing to criticize.

Rooms/Pricing at Château Saint-Martin in the French Riviera hills

46 rooms are available, and you can choose out of ten categories. The range goes from a Deluxe Room (25-30 sqm) to a Three Bedroom Villa (155 sqm). If you care for a sea view, you have to opt from a Superior Junior Suite upwards.

Prices start from about 460 €/US$ (without breakfast). And the hotel is open in the summer season only.

In the following a few details to our choice of room, a Superior Junior Suite.

Superior Junior Suite

We went for a Superior Junior Suite as we wanted to have sea views. And the room did not disappoint in this regard. Not only could we view the Mediterranean Sea – from far away – but also the town of Vence.

Yet the room was convincing in every other aspect. It was spacious (40 – 45 sqm), nicely furnished in a contemporary design, featuring a living area

and a sizable bathroom.

In terms of rates, you can either choose the best available rate (without breakfast) or the half board rate. The latter includes the breakfast plus a three-course menu dinner at the Michelin starred Restaurant Le Saint-Martin. As I am fan of half board arrangements – so you are not tempted to have a tasting menu at any evening of your vacation – , we booked this option. That did cost us 1,160 €/US$ per day. This is of course far away from being a bargain. However, if you compare this rate to the prices you have to pay at upscale Côte d’Azur beach front establishments, it seems very competitive.

Facilities at Château Saint-Martin in the French Riviera hills

The facilities here are top notch. Four restaurants are onsite, two of them are outdoor ones, therefore only weather permitting. Le Saint-Martin is the signature dining-spot amongst them. Find details about dining here in the separate section below. Le Rossini

is the place for cocktails and afternoon tea. L’Oliveraie is an outdoor lunch spot offering grilled meat and fish along with pizzas, teppanyaki plates and salads. The Pool Bar serves drinks and is also open for pre-dinner cocktails, again if the weather permits it.

The spa, including fitness facilities and a boutique, seems to be first-rate – we did not use it – , it was voted as “Best luxury spa destination in Europe”. They partner with La Prairie. Then, there is a garden for a quick stroll complete with a large infinity pool

and two tennis courts. Also a kids club (outdoor) is on the premises. Finally, Château Saint-Martin in the French Riviera hills exhibits art, too. In 2021 and 2022, it is about works of Manolo Valdés.

Activities in the French Riviera

In terms of activities in the area, you can book tours to cycle or walk the French Riviera at the hotel. They come with picnic lunch or snack, prepared by the Michelin starred chef. A walking tour guided by him is an option, too. That all sounds promising, however be prepared to fork out some cash.

If you like walking and exploring, I have two suggestions for the area – which are free. While one of them starts directly at hotel and leads to one to the most visited villages in the area,

the other is a tour along the Mediterranean Sea.

Come back later and check out my post about what to do on the French Rivera, soon on my blog.

Speaking of walking, you can reach Vence, the beautiful town at your feet, by foot, too.

There is a path about 150 m/490 ft from the hotel. Turn right at the entrance and you can access it on your right (well hidden) when reaching a small strip of forest. It is a hiking trail first, then you have to cross Avenue des Templiers to reach Chemin du Riou. Here you turn right into Chemin Saint-Martin until you come to Avenue du Maréchal Joffre. Turn left and walk to the next crossing. Turn right and cross the bridge. From here there are signposts for the town center. You need about 20 minutes to reach it from the hotel. The way back is considerably more strenuous, up a steep hill, count in about 30 minutes. One more remark, it would astonish me if many guests at Château Saint-Martin in the French Riviera hills took this path. The typical clientele look as they are used to being chauffeured around.

Dining in style at Le Saint-Martin, one-star Michelin restaurant

Before coming to the dinner experience at Restaurant Le Saint-Martin, a brief introduction of the Michelin starred chef.

Chef at Le Saint-Martin in the French Riviera hills

Jean-Luc Lefrançois is a very experienced chef, and he seems to be fond of working in high-end hotels. After 30 years at renown Parisian establishments just as the Ritz or the Bristol

he has been in charge in the French Riviera hills since 2015. And he has a “winter job” as well because the hotel is only open during summer. He does so at L’Apogée Courchevel, a mountain resort in the French Alps, also part of the Oetker Collection.

At Le Saint-Martin he offers a southern-oriented, Mediterranean cuisine. He cooks seasonally and sources from the region. For his creations he uses summer vegetables just as olives, zucchini or tomatoes. His signature dish is seabass, pistachio crusted, accompanied by olive polenta. Jean-Luc Lefrançois especially likes preparing carrots, in any color, and his preferred herb is basil.

And as a very sporty man – he does ultra marathons in summer and ski tours in winter – his favorite food is rice, according to his statements, he could live on it.

Quite astonishing, his preferences, aren’t they? Quite frugal for such a decorated chef … But now to the restaurant and the food you get at the chateau.

Restaurant Le Saint-Martin

You should hope for a warm summer evening when dining at Le Saint-Martin at Château Saint-Martin in the French Riviera hills. In this case, you can sit on the beautiful terrace boasting sweeping views of the countryside and the Mediterranean Sea.

Yet also the interiors are a good spot for dining in style, they seem to have received a stylish makeover recently.

In terms of menus, there is either an à la carte option or – if you are on half board as we were – the Menu du Marché. The later entitles you not only to a fabulous breakfast – the cakes are fantastic – , but also to choose three courses from a daily changing menu. Find in the following what you get and how it was.

Menu du Marché

On our stay, we could make a choice out of two starters (fish or vegetarian), two main courses (fish or poultry) and two desserts. And if you feel like having cheese,

this is possible of course  – and highly recommended, from the excellent cheese trolley (for additional costs).

In terms of starters, we had the ones with raw fish on both days and they were superb! On day one, it was sea bream as sashimi with citrus fruit jelly, cucumber and raspberry.

The following day, we indulged in salmon as tartare in unison with citrus fruits, crispy Japanese pearl and horseradish.

As to main courses, on one day, we decided on scorpion fish accompanied by chickpea fries, candied lemon and zucchini with rosemary.

The other day, the quail sounded so tempting that we could not help but ordering it. And it was totally worth it! The chef served it roasted with curry combined with melting potatoes and Nice-style vegetables.

And when it came to desserts, I had troubles to make a choice both times. I would have loved to try all the four sweet delicacies that were proposed to us. While one one occasion my husband had the vanilla cheesecake made out of four spices shortbread, passion cream, exotic coulis and fresh mango, I went for the strawberry pavlova.

This was an artwork of meringue, vanilla cream, strawberry coulis and strawberry sorbet. It was divine! The next day, we both ordered the panna cotta, which was sublime, again. It was an original vanilla version with basil poached strawberries and a strawberry sorbet.

I could not be happier with our dinner experience at Le Saint-Martin! The chef’s style suited me perfectly. He knows what he does! All his creations were well composed, big on flavor, carefully prepared and presented. Do not expect experimental cuisine here but extremely well made Mediterranean food, expertly crafted with the necessary refined touch. The one-star Michelin award for this restaurant is well deserved!

Overall Château Saint-Martin in the French Riviera hills

If you want to stay at a high-end hotel on the French Riviera but consider the seafront properties as way too expensive, then Château Saint-Martin in the French Riviera hills is the perfect choice. It offers everything discerning guests look for and even features a one-star Michelin restaurant. While this luxury lodging is not exactly a bargain, its pricing is competitive compared to others in the area and given the quality. The accommodation is located in the French Riviera hills and offers sea views (from far away)

and you can reach the coast in less than half an hour by car. And the countryside here is beautiful with many interesting spots to visit. Soon on my blog you will find some (walking) activities in south France.

Looking back and forward

On a 11-day trip through north Italy and south France, the stay at Château Saint-Martin in the French Riviera hills was the first of three stops in France. Another one in the Provence

and one south of Lyon were to follow. Behind us at that point, there were a halt on the Italian Rivera and two in Piedmont. On the whole journey we made sure that we traveled and dined in style whenever it was possible, and we got value for money. That means luxury hotels and (Michelin) fine dining, which are not priced excessively.

Date of stay: September 2021

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Finally, my husband and managed to do a longer trip abroad – after a forced break due to Corona of more than one and a half year. We did not venture far, to neighboring Italy and France. Yet it was such a great experience after so many Switzerland staycations! We had a northern Italy and southern France trip in mind. The car was our chosen mode of transport. But I will inform about other options to travel around, too. And we wanted to stay and dine in style. That meant spending the nights at luxury hotels and having meals in Michelin restaurants, as long as they are worth the money. Of course, we also explored the area, whenever possible by foot. So expect suggestions for high-end accommodations, gourmet dining-spots and things to do, especially short walks (details on the latter in separate posts to follow).

Before going into details about the places we visited, here is the itinerary of our trip.

Northern Italy & southern France 11-day road trip itinerary

Find here my Google Map of our journey.

Our first stop was the Lake Orta region not far from the Swiss border to Italy. While it is part of the Piedmont, it is not necessarily known as an area where they grow vines. Quite the contrary, it makes part of the Italian lake region.

Next was a typical Piedmont destination, a resort near Santo Stefano Belbo. It is located near Alba, the truffle capital. And this time, you encounter here the gentle hills full of vineyards.

As we have not seen the sea for more than one and a half years, my husband and I set off for an Italian beach town. The choice fell on Alassio, a Ligurian seaside resort west of Genoa. The coast is also called Italian Riviera.

Then we crossed the nearby border to France. We did not stay directly by the sea, but headed to the hills high above Nice, to the picturesque village of Vence in the region of the Métropole Nice Côte d’Azur. This area also goes under the name of the French Riviera.

This was followed by a stop in the Provence, precisely Paradou, a neighboring village of the famous Les-Baux-de-Provence.

On our way home, we made a stopover south of Lyon, France’s third largest city. Here we chose Vienne, a town known for its Roman heritage.

Now to some information about the individual places visited on our northern Italy and southern France journey – and where to stay and dine in style.

From place to place in northern Italy and southern France

As announced, my husband and I attach much value to staying and dining in style. Therefore, when looking for places to spend our vacations, we make sure that there are upscale hotels and gourmet dining-spots around. But first and foremost, we think of a specific region to go. And as a second step, we check out the accommodations and the restaurant scene. Having said that, it may happen that there are certain establishments being on my wish list a long time. And this is true for our first destination, Lake Orta.

Before coming to it, there is one more thing to add. As we live in times of Corona, we only opted for lodging that comes with foodie hotspots, too. So we did not have to venture further to indulge in culinary highlights.

1. Lake Orta, Piedmont

I considered this northern Italian spot as the ideal one to start our trip. First, it is close to Switzerland near the Lake Maggiore. Second, I became aware of a hotel with restaurant here on our Turin journey in 2019. At the time, we dined at the Michelin starred Cannavacciuolo Bistrot (my post) in the Piedmont’s capital.

And I found out that this is an offshot of Villa Crespi in Orta San Guilio, a high-end accommodation with a two Michelin star gourmet temple (since November 2022 with three Michelin stars).

When getting here, I absolutely fell in love with this unique building in Moorish style.

More details follow in a separate blogpost (stay at Villa Crespi).

Later on, I have also discovered that Orta San Guilio is a truly splendid village. It belongs to the “I Borghi più belli d’Italia” (the most beautiful villages in Italy). And it delivered in this respect. It is a fascinating medieval village, enveloped by woodland and backed by mountains.

I will go into it in more length at a later point of time (what to do in Orta San Giulio).

2. Santo Stefano Belbo, Piemont 

While the town of Santo Stefano Belbo seems to be a pleasant place to live, it is not necessarily a must-do for travelers. Without doubt there are other spots in the Piedmont more worthwhile visiting. As to that, learn about things to do in the area in my blogpost to follow. Notwithstanding that, I have never seen a more beautiful vineyard landscape on my Piedmont trips than here in the Langhe wine-growing region east of Alba.

Coming back to Santo Stefano Belbo, you find here the hotel of our choice not far from it. This is about Relais San Maurizo, an impressive resort in a former monastery,

complete with the Restaurant Guido da Costigliole, a Michelin star dining-spot.

Set on a low range of hills covered with these wonderful vineyards, it offers everything a demanding traveler could wish for. Find a detailed review about it in the time to come on my blog.

3. Alassio, Liguria/Italian Riviera

While my husband and I have already traveled Liguria east of Genoa (Riviera di Levante, highly recommended, see our hotel here),

we have never been to the Riviera di Ponente, the coastal stretch west of Genoa. It is known for its long sandy beaches. One of the most popular seaside towns in the area is Alassio with a 4 km/2.5 mi long stretch of beach

and with a nice historic alleyway parallel to the sea.

My husband and I came here for the sea, although not for lying on the beach. We rather wanted to enjoy the vibes coming with being by the sea – and of course we were eager to explore the region, above all by walking. And last but not least, there is a luxury hotel with gourmet restaurant here that caught my attention. This is the enchanting Villa della Pergola, located a bit above town in a gorgeous botanical garden.

And you find here also the one Michelin starred Nove Restaurant.

More about the accommodation (my post) and the activities to take here can be found soon on my blog.

4. Vence, Côte d’Azur/French Riviera

After crossing the boarder between Italy and France, we arrived on the famous Côte d’Azur, also called French Riviera. We had checked out the high-end accommodations directly by the sea, but we came to the conclusion that they are not worth the super high prices. So we had decided to opt for a luxury hotel a bit further away from the sea but with views of it. I think we made the perfect choice, and this with Château Saint-Martin in Vence

featuring the one Michelin starred Restaurant Le Saint-Martin.

And the village of Vence here in these hills above Nice and Antibes is a truly picturesque place.

The same is true for the nearby Saint-Paul-de-Vence, a “museum village”.

As a plus, you can walk to it from our hotel in Vence! Find more info about this and another walk to do in the area in my separate post to follow. And of course I will also let you know how it is staying and dining at Château Saint-Martin.

5. Paradou near Les-Baux-de-Provence, Provence

The Provence is known for its stunning landscapes full of river valleys, gorges and old villages. The most famous among the latter is probably Les Baux-de-Provence.

This is a hilltop stone village below the ruins of an old castle. My husband and I walked to it while staying at the nearby Paradou.

The Hotel b design & Spa was the hotel of our choice in the Provence.

It is housed in a building typical for this region, a so-called mas. On site there is also a sister hotel where you find the Restaurant Nancy Bourguignon.

Here you can have breakfast and dinner in this Michelin restaurant. All about our stay here later on my blog.

6. Vienne, south of Lyon

On our way back from the south of France we had been looking for lodging to stay and dine in style. We had favored a place near Lyon, probably the country’s gastronomic capital. And we came upon Hotel and Restaurant La Pyramide

by Patrick Henriroux, a two Michelin starred chef.

We had not checked out the town of Vienne, where this establishment is located, in detail. We only had one night available and had not planned to do longer activities in town.

When arriving, we were pleasantly surprised to learn that this town overflows with Roman history.

I will not go into it in this overview article. Come back later to learn a bit more about Vienne and its flagship hotel and restaurant.

Outlook northern Italy & southern France

At last, my husband and I set to a first longer trip abroad after the imposed Corona time-out. And it brought us to northern Italy (Piedmont and Liguria) as well us to southern France (Nice metropolis Côte d’Azur and Provence). On our way home, we made a stop south of Lyon (Vienne), too.

In the time to come, you will find reviews of the luxury hotels we stayed and the Michelin (starred) restaurants we dined. In addition, I will go into what to do in the particular places. We walked whenever possible according to the motto “Only where you were walking, you have really been” (Wolfgang von Goethe).

Other similar itineraries

In case you should be interested in other similar itineraries than this current one about northwest Italy and southeast France, here are more:

• 14-day road trip itinerary to northeast Italy (South Tyrol & Lake Garda) plus west Switzerland (Montreux/Lake Geneva)
• 11 days on the road in the Piedmont & west Switzerland in luxury

Date of stay: September 2021

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