Hua Hin, the beach side town south of Bangkok, is known for its night markets. However, if you look for great fine dining restaurants, you are not really spoiled for choice. So, when spending some leisure time here after a Bhutan trip (my posts), I had to look hard for gourmet spots for the three nights my husband and I had here. Finally, I did make some finds that live up to my idea of fine fining in a sophisticated ambiance. Thus, I am able to propose three of the best restaurants in Hua Hin to you.

Before going into the three dining outlets, a few remarks to the town of  Hua Hin in general and about the reason we came here.

Hua Hin as popular beach destination from Bangkok

In case you are in Bangkok and looking for a nearby beach destination, you actually have two options, Pattaya and Hua Hin. While the former is closer to Bangkok (two hours by car), it is predominantly known as party destination. Think in this context of blaring beer bars and neon dance shows. If you are more into laid-back, quiet places, then I definitely would go to Hua Hin. This takes you a bit longer (three to four hours by car), yet it is probably your best choice for beach activities, night markets, spa treatments or golfing near Bangkok.

Hua Hin has become quite fashionable as weekend getaway place for Bangkok residents. Yet also ex-pats like to have a vacation home or to retire here. It actually it is Thailand’s oldest coastal resort. The Royal family made it popular in the 1920s, and they still continue to vacation here nowadays.

Hut Hin as last stop after a Bhutan trip

Hua Hin made the perfect spot for my husband and me when it came to a few leisure days after a Bhutan trip (here you find all my posts about it). Before doing this journey, we also spent a couple of days in Bangkok. In this context, I already went into great fine dining in the capital’s Sathorn District. In case you are wondering about upscale lodging in Bangkok and Hua Hin, here is my post about this topic.

But now to some of the best resaurants in Hua Hin.

3 of Hua Hin’s top fine dining restaurants

I mentioned it already, there is no abundance of excellent fine dining options in Hua Hin. Yet you are not totally at a loss if you are a gourmet stranding here. Sadly, there is no Michelin Guide for this beach resort south of Bangkok. So, I had to dig deep on the internet to find upscale dining spots in another way.

Here is what I came across when doing my research. I start with my absolute highlight here, an upscale Thai restaurant, continue with an high-end Italian dining spot and end with a casual modern Thai eatery.

1. Restaurant Jaras at Hotel Intercontinental Hua Hin

Back story of Jaras, one of the best restaurants in Hua Hin

Restaurant Jaras was originally conceived for the Intercontinental Hotel in Phuket where the dining spot it made into the Michelin Guide. In April 2021, the concept was also introduced at the Intercontinental Hotel in Hua Hin.

Jaras is named after the owners’ grandma, Jaraspim Liptapanlop, who seemed to be a very good cook. As to the family Liptapanlop, everyone knows them in Thailand. The Liptapanlops own the Prayoonwitt Group and made their fortune in the construction industry. Lately, they have been gearing to the property development. Also the Hotels Intercontinental Phuket and Hua Hin are part of their portfolio.

Dining experience at Jaras

Design

Jaras is an intimate restaurant with only a fews tables. There is also a covered alfresco dining available overlooking the beach and pool. As to its interiors, the walls are nicely decorated with hand-painted murals depicting rural Thai scenes.

Food concept

On offer at Jaras is a creative contemporary Thai cuisine. Some of the recipes are inspired by the namesake, the already mentioned owners’ grandma, Jaraspim Liptapanlop. The ingredients come from regional suppliers, including fine caviar from a local farm. Also wine from the nearby Monsoon Valley Vineyard, developing a local wine culture since 2001, is available.

When it comes to what to order, you can choose between a multi-course menu or à la carte. As to the former, there is a 10-course Chef’s Table Menu, which costs 3,488 Baht (88 SFR/US$) including a glass of champagne. If this should be too much for you, go for the 8-course one (2,188 Baht / 55 SFR/US$) or the 5-course one (1,688 Baht / 43 SFR/US$).

In terms of à la carte, starters are from 270 to 680 Baht (7-17 SFR), mains from 350 to 750 Baht (9-19 SFR) and desserts from 230 to 280 Baht (6-7 SFR).

How was it at Jaras?

This was definitely my favorite dinner in Hua Hin as everything was right, from the design of the place to its ambiance to the food. As it was my husband’s birthday, we splurged on the 10-course Chef’s Table Menu.  We were not only allocated the best table at Jaras, but were well cared for throughout the evening by amiable and helpful staff.

All the ten courses, which took inspiration from Hua Hin community traditions, were very good. Among other things, we could also taste the local caviar, which could convince. There was lots of seafood – scallops, sand fish or King Mackerel – , prepared in all possible ways. Yet we were also served meat, above all Thai Wagyu beef with Panang curry. And everything was well prepared and nicely arranged.

We also had the paired beverages, which was an interesting experience as it included different spirits aside from wine – locally grown one too. The one thing that did not go well was the first glass of champagne we got. We had to reject it because it was flat. But that was the only downside. Bottom line, if you look for a restaurant for a special occasion, do not look any further – Jaras is it!

2. Restaurant Zafferano’94 Hua Hin

UPDATE: chef Luca Gavassa left end of March 2024

Back story of Zafferano’94

Chef and owner Luca Gavassa together with sommelier and restaurant manager Davide Lucatello opened their fine dining restaurant in April 2020, precisely when the first Covid lockdown happened. Bad luck for the two Italian restaurateurs! But they did not let things get them down. Both, the chef from the Turin area and the host from the Venetian one, were able to struggle through the difficult times and came out stronger.

Before coming here to Hua Hin’s eat street, Soi 94, both had been working in Koh Samui’s restaurant industry for 20 years, the last ten to them together. After such a long time at one place, they needed a change of scenery and headed to Hua Hin to open their upscale Italian dining spot.

Dining experience at Zafferano’94, one of the best restaurants in Hua Hin

Design

The restaurant is a dream in purple, inspired by the saffron crocus, Zafferano in Italian. The flower’s color, from which the most expensive spice is derived, is present all over the place. Purple is reflected in the table runners, the water glasses, the pictures on the walls, on diners’ plates etcetera.

Zafferano’94 features a bright, elegant dining room where you can watch the action in the kitchen through a glass separating panel. In addition, there is an undercover alfresco dining terrace plus a bar/lounge for drinks.

Food concept

On the menu you find refined Italian food. They reinvent traditional centuries-old recipes using modern cooking techniques and preparations.

The food journey started with tomato bruschetta on the house. For starters (from 280 to 380 Baht / 7 to 10 SFR/US$), my husband and I had Burrata Caprese (burrata cheese with tomato) and Carpaccio di Vitello alla Piemontese (veal carpaccio with parmesan). We continued with Risotto ai Porcini and Ravioli al Tartufo, Gorgonzola, Porcini e Noci (truffle ravioli with blue cheese, porcini and nuts). Those were from the entrées section (from 390 to 490 Baht / 10 to 12 SFR/US$).

Alternatively – or in addition if you are very hungry – , you can choose from the mains (490 to 980 Baht / 12 to 25 SFR/US). This is about meat and fish only. A favorite here seems to be the Ossobuco alla Milanese. It is a classic of Lombardy, veal shanks slowly cooked and served atop saffron risotto. Or you can build your own pizza (starting from 260 Baht / 7 SFR/US$).

As to desserts, you find here the usual ones plus a lesser known one (Bonet Piemontese, a hot chocolate cake with amaretto). Prices range from 60 (one scoop of ice cream) to 220 Baht (2 to 6 SFR/US$). While some dishes are always on the menu, other parts of the menu change regularly.

How was it at Zafferano’94?

While we were the only guests on a hot evening during Songkran Festival (Thai new year) until shortly before we left, there was no shortage of staff. Host Davide ran the front of the house in the most excellent manner together with an apprentice. And chef Luca skillfully delivered his fine Italian fare with the assistance of another cook.

My husband and I liked not only the immaculately prepared and nicely presented Italian classics with a twist but also the upscale ambiance at this chic place – from which you cannot find many in Hua Hin outside of high-end hotels. And the host is such a nice person, yet discreet enough not to be too talkative – in light of us being the only guests most of time.

3. Restaurant Braça at Hotel The Standard Hua Hin

Back story of Braça

Set in the buzzy surrounds of the newish (opened December 2021), super-cool Hotel The Standard, the Thai Izakaya Praça Restaurant suits just right. Praça – opened at the beginning of 2022 – is Portuguese for plaza, a local meeting place, and you actually see here all sorts of people. There is young trendy folk but also well-heeled couples and families.

Chef Prasertchai “Jacky” Trongvanichnam, a former Iron Chef champion who has worked at top hotels and restaurants in Thailand and the USA, is at the helm at Praça.

Dining experience at Braça, one of the best restaurants in Hua Hin

Design

Inspired by beach clubs of the Mediterranean, Praça is set in a restored heritage beach house equipped with an expansive verandah and breezy oceanfront.

As to seating areas, you have everything from an expansive veranda to a shady terrace for alfresco by the beach and indoor dining spaces. Although the latter is rather on the small side. The atmosphere here is relaxing, sharing style and lively.

Food concept

As I already hinted, it is about Izakaya, in Japan a casual drinking establishment also serving small dishes. It actuals means “stay-drink-place”. And food is thought to be shared.

Chef Jacky, trained in classic French cooking, showcases a unification of his western foundation, artisan local ingredients and favorite Thai street food flavors. He has composed an innovative menu with a fresh and playful feel. It includes tapas (160 to 290 Baht / 4 to 7 SFR/US$), flame-grilled food (160 to 360 Baht /4 to 9 SFR/US$), bowls, (260 to 360 Baht /7 to 9 SFR/US$) rice as side dish (80 to 90 Baht / 2 SFR/US$) and desserts (160 to 170 Baht / 4 SFR/US$).

How was it at Braça?

My husband and I had a seat on the verandah, which we considered as the ideal space for the not–so–young anymore. There are fans to make it more pleasant in case it is hot. And that was the case in April when we went.

Service was young, friendly and helpful, we felt well at ease. While Praça definitely has a nonchalant dining vibe, it was always attended to professionally.

Foodwise, we shared two Tapas (Miang Kham, Esan Tuna), Yum Som-O From the Fire, a Bowl (Khao Pad Nuea Yang), two Spoons (rice) and two Sweets (Waffel I-tim cha Thai and Hua Loy). Every dish followed the kitchen’s concept of traditional Thai recipes with a twist. Everything we had was well made and tasty. Only the grilled black tiger prawns were a bit mushy.

Overall, Braça is the perfect spot to go for modern interpretations of Thai food in a casual Izakaya style. And its front sea setting in a heritage beach house is hard to beat!

Looking back to my Thailand/Bhutan posts

This post about the best restaurants in Hua Hin is the last one of my Thailand and Bhutan reporting. As to the former, I started with possible pre-/post Bhutan travel plans, and that was in our case Thailand, i.e. Bangkok before and Hua Hin afterwards. Then I also looked into some of the best upscale Thai restaurants in Bangkok’s central business district of Sathorn.

Should you be show any interest in Bhutan, I wrote about the following topics: travel guide, 9-day itinerary, touring Bhutan by arrangements of luxury hotels operating here, Bhutan travel with COMO.

Date of visit: April 2023

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The post 3 of the best fine dining restaurants in Hua Hin, Thailand first appeared on Swiss Traveler

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Bangkok is for sure one of the foodie’s capitals in the world. And so my husband and I made sure that we could try out some of the best what Thailand’s capital has to offer in terms of Thai fine dining on our recent stay. As we happened to reside in the Sathorn District (find more details about it below), it had to be here. I do not see the point in heading further if you are spoilt for choice as to excellent dining-spots in the area. And this is definitely the case in Sathorn which has some of the best Michelin restaurants.

After some information about Sathorn and our post-Bangkok travel plans, I come right to the fine dining places we had chosen for our three nights in Bangkok.

About Sathorn District

Sathorn, also written as Sathon, is one of the city’s major business districts. It stretches from the Lumpini Park to the Chao Phraya river and from the Sathorn Road to the Chan Road. You find here many high-rise office buildings that house banks and other financial institutions. While Sathorn is not exactly known for its tourist attractions, it still makes a good base for exploring Bangkok’s highlights. In addition, there are lots of great hotels, restaurants and nightlife outlets. And the good transport links here make it easy to get around.

Bangkok as starting and end point for a Bhutan trip

Bangkok was for my husband and I the ideal springboard into a Bhutan trip, for which we had been waiting three years (because of COVID-19). If you should be interested in my Bhutan reports, I made following posts: travel guide, 9-day itinerary, travel plans of luxury Bhutan hotel brands, COMO Bhutan journey and pre-/post Bhutan stays.

As to the last mentioned one, we stayed in Bangkok before going to Bhutan, as you know by now. When returning from this trip, we added some beach days in Hua Hin, located three hours by car south from Bangkok. In case you care for fine dining recommendations in this seaside resort, my next post will go into them.

Three fabulous Michelin listed/starred Thai restaurants in Sathorn

As I mentioned above, some of the best Michelin restaurants are to be found in the Sathorn District. Quite a few even have Michelin stars. So it is no easy choice! My husband and I decided to include only places that serve Thai food. On our first visit in Thailand, we wanted to savor exclusively local cuisine. In addition, we were reluctant to spend a fortune doing so (as there is an abundance of less costly outlets).

After a thorough research we settled on the following ones. As we stayed at the COMO Metropolitan Hotel, which houses the Michelin one-star Restaurant Nahm, this one was set. We had eaten at Nahm London quite some years ago – when it still existed – , and had liked our experience here. However, I have to admit, I was a bit deterred by the not so good Google reviews (4.0) of its Bangkok branch.

Further on, we opted for Restaurant Saawan offering modern Thai cuisine. This dining spot seems to be a fixture on the local gourmet scene, although since recently with a new chef. For our third night, we got a bit adventurous and also chose Samrub Samrub Thai, from which we found not much info on the internet. At this place, they rethink old Thai recipes in creative ways.

Now to the details of each!

1. Restaurant Nahm at COMO Metropolitan Hotel Bangkok

Back story of Nahm, one of the best Michelin restaurants in Sathorn

Restaurant Nahm gained fame when it was named best Asian restaurant by the World’s Best Restaurants award in 2014. At the time, it was under the lead of David Thompson, an Australian who has dedicated himself to the Thai cuisine for many years. I was lucky enough to have dined at his London branch before he closed it in 2012 and moved to Bangkok. Here he received a Michelin star in 2017 when Michelin first included restaurants in Thailand’s capital. Then, one year later, David Thompson left for Hongkong.

At Nahm Bangkok, Pim Techamuanvivit, a female chef from San Francisco, took over in 2018. The Bangkok-born chef had left behind a career in Silicon Valley to open her own Thai restaurant in San Francisco, Kin Khao. And it was awarded a Michelin star only 18 months later! While still living in this city on the U.S. West Coast, she also holds the position of an executive chef at Nahm.

It seems that the restaurant’s style has not much changed since Pim  has been in charge. However, she has more turned to Thai artisans and small-scale farmers and fishermen to source ingredients. The eatery is still recognized by the World’s Best Restaurants award (No 98 of the Asian list) and also kept its Michelin star.

Dining experience at Nahm

Design

I liked the restaurant’s interiors with its extraordinary design. There are massive pillars, mirrored after Ayutthaya’s architecture, the second capital of the ancient city of Siam. This feature combined with hand-crafted wooden screens and bare wooden tables create a harmonious whole, which is contemporary yet with a traditional touch too. Onsite, you also find an outdoor poolside terrace. That suits the restaurant’s name, Nahm means “water” in Thai.

Food concept

As to the food, you get here a modern take on traditional Thai cuisine. Curries, salads, relishes, soups and stir-fries are on offer. And these often come with traditional ingredients which are not so frequently used in other contemporary Thai restaurants.

You can either opt for the menu or eat à la carte. The former is called “heritage” and costs 3,200 Baht (82 SFR/US$). If you prefer vegetarian fare, this is available as “botany” for 2,600 Baht (66 SFR/US$). As to the latter, starters are available from 400 to 780 Baht (10 to 20 SFR/US$), mains from 540 to 920 Baht (14 to 23 SFR/US$) and desserts from 350 to 375 Baht (9 SFR/US$).

How was it at Nahm?

While we generally liked what we got – especially the canapés (blue swimmer crab on rice crackers and miang of prawn, chicken and fruits)

were excellent – , service could have been better. After taking our order, staff did not show up at our table for quite a long time. While everyone around us got dish after dish, one hour passed until we got our first one. At some point, my husband inquired about the delay, but the server did not respond properly.

Once the round finally started, there was an ongoing coming of plates. And many came at the same time. We felt rushed and it totally lacked the magic of a typical tasting menu. And imagine, the dinner came to an end with the last dish being served less than one hour from its start.

On the positive side, at some point of time, a friendly female maître d’ appeared at our table to chat to us. We first thought that it was because of our complaint that we had made shortly before with a colleague of her. Yet it was unconnected. When she left, she casually said that she would check on our food as it seemed to be overdue.

2. Restaurant Saawaan Bangkok

Back story of Saawaan

Restaurant Saawaan – which means “heaven” in Thai – was opened in 2019. Shortly afterwards, it got a Michelin star and was holding it until 2022.  After the departure of chef Sujira “Aom” Pongmorn, it was gone yet the dining spot is still listed in the guide. And it is also featured on the World’s Best Restaurants Discovery list.

Since mid 2022, chef Saritwat “Earth” Wanvichitkun has been in charge here. He was born in Phuket and grew up in a family who owned a restaurant. From his mother he learned the art of cooking (Southern) Thai. As to western cooking techniques, he studied four years at Le Cordon Bleu Bangkok. Before being named as chef at Saawaan, Earth was executive chef at Restaurant Nitan in Phuket, which made it into the Michelin Guide in 2021.

Also at the helm at Saawaan is Arisara ‘Paper’ Chongphanitkul, who looks after the desserts here. She is the co-owner of ICI, a creative pastry café too.

Dining experience at Saawaan, one of the best Michelin restaurants in Sathorn

Design

The restaurant is housed in a converted shop house in a leafy alley off Sathorn Road. The window spans the entire front of the building, which is a good thing as the interiors are rather dark. The dining room is contemporarily styled, with brown bare wooden tables and a dark wooden floor. On the walls you find gold colored wallpaper adorned with branches full of white flowers. In addition to the circa 24 seats there is a counter where cold food is prepared in front of the guests (no seats here).

Food concept

On offer at Saawaan is modern Thai cuisine. The specialty here is that every dish focuses on a typical technique or concept of the traditional Thai cooking. And this always with a creative flair. One dish showcases for example grilling, the other stir-frying and yet another one fermentation.

On our evening, an eight-course tasting menu was served, showcasing following methods: raw, fermented, boiled, Miang (wrap), charcoal, stir-fried, curry and dessert. Ingredients were generally locally sourced. And a nice feature was that often a chef came to our table to give the finish to the dishes in front of our eyes.

There is a sole menu at your disposal, which costed 2,490 Baht (63 SFR/US$) on our visit. As I noted, it is now priced at 2,790 Baht (71 SFR/US$), which I still find reasonably priced for what you get.

How was it at Saawaan?

This was most probably my favorite dinner in Bangkok as the overall experience was very rewarding. Not only the service was impeccable, but the food was surprising, innovative and full of flavor. I only wish that we had not asked them for toning down the spiciness of the food a bit (they inquired whether they should do it nor not). Because I felt that it lost at times some of its magic as a consequence. Be it as it may, it was still great.

You definitely never got bored here as there is always something going on. It is great to watch the chefs and servers how they do a part of the preparation process in front of you. It is a fun affair and gives you the chance of occasionally asking a question.

My favorite dish at Saawaan was the curry. It was a green one paired with a Madame Burgaud Challans duck.

In order to produce the curry paste chef Earth combined ten different types of Thai chillies what resulted in a deep and well-rounded curry.

I also liked the dessert, a reinvented version of the classic Thai dessert of a steamed pandan layered cake. It was complemented with jasmine ice cream and black rice sauce.

3. Restaurant Samrub Samrub Thai Bangkok

UPDATE: one Michelin star as from December 2023

Back story of Samrub Samrub Thai

Samrub Sambrub Thai is run by a husband-and-wife team, Prin Polsuk and Thanyaporn “Mint” Jarukittikun. And interestingly enough, the former’s history is linked to the above mentioned Restaurant Nahm. He used to be David Thompson’s protégé, entrusted with heading Nahm London and Bangkok.

In 2017, Prin Poluk and his wife founded Samrub Samrub Thai in order to give lost Thai dishes a new life. First, they pursued their project in the form of pop-ups. Later on, in 2019, they moved to fixed quarters, to a small place with 16 seats only. And the eatery was well received. So, in November 2022, they moved one more time. And this to the current location in Saladaeng, with some more seats available. This is actually his wife’s childhood home, and her family still lives above. Prin Polsuk himself is from Chiang Mai in Thailand’s north, growing up in a family of farmers. If you wonder about the outlet’s name, Samrub means “menu” in Thai, but is it also something special.

In this year World’s Best Restaurant Asian list Samrub Samrub Thai ranks No 82. As to Michelin, the dining spot also made it into this guide in spring 2023.

Dining experience at Samrub Samrub Thai, one of the best Michelin restaurants in Sathorn

Food concept

Prin Polusk made it his mission to revive old recipes. For this he rummages through antique cookbooks and tries with perseverance and vigor to unravel its secrets.  At the same time, he is open to new culinary developments and incorporates them in his cuisine. The result is true Thai food “rethought”.

Apparently, dishes change every month and rarely ever repeat. On offer is a set menu – priced at 3,900 Baht (99 SFR/US$) – , which is served family style. And much appreciated by us, you get here one course after the other. In such a way, you can savor each one individually and you do not have to rush through the meal.

Design

The dining spot is located in a quiet residential area not far from lively Sathon Road. Everything looks new here at this at this large, white four-floor building. Once you walk through the door, you catch sight of a small open kitchen plus a long counter that can seat up to twelve guests.  In the rear, there is room for about ten more seats at tables. The room has an industrial-chic vibe, most is kept in black and white.

How was it at Samrub Samrub Thai?

The whole shebang

First of all, you have to know that it is difficult to get a reservation at Samrub for international guests. This because there is neither a website that deserves the name nor an easy way to make a reservation. You have to get in touch with them via Facebook or Instagram to make a booking request. Once you get an answer – which may last a while – , you have to pay the menu price in advance via bank transfer, for either the round at 5.30pm or at 8pm. Apparently, they are in the process of improving their booking and payment system to accommodate international guests too. Let us see what happens.

Unfortunately, we had another issue with the place. It seems they do not make it easy to love them. When we arrived here a few minutes before 8pm, all counter seats apart from two were already taken. And when we were discussing with Mint (the wife) about our seating – she allocated one of the tables in the rear to us where you are not able to witness the happenings in the kitchen – , the remaining seats were taken by other guests. Thus, we had no other choice than to become seated where she wanted us to do in the first place. At least we could make her let us sit side by side for better views.

Food & service

After we had overcome the initial obstacles, the dinner proceeded in an excellent vein, providing us with fantastic food and faultless service. All the courses – one snack, three starters, six main courses, one dessert, one petit fours – were amazing. I cannot name a personal favorite. Every single bit was scrumptious, full of taste and lingered long in our memories.

While the setting was rather casual, we felt quite at ease – the bench in the rear of the room was not overly comfortable. While the dinner went on, the chefs kept coming to our table to explain something related to the dishes served. And the meal sequence was just perfect. Also the chef was present and changed a few word with his guests – not to us “farangs”. However, his wife Mint, treated us warmly and made our dinner pleasant, although we had made a bit of trouble at the beginning (seating).

Samrub Samrub Thai would have easily made it our restaurant favorite in Bangkok if there had not been the mentioned issues!

What is next on my blog?

I already let you know that we not only made a “foodie tour” in Bangkok’s Sathorn in search of the best Michelin restaurants, but also went further south. And this to the beach resort of Hua Hin, the “darling” of many “Bangkokians” looking for a quick getaway. Said that, it was far more difficult there to find fine dining restaurants worth visiting for gourmet minded people. Nonetheless, we found some great places, although we had to move away a bit from our principle of only eating Thai food on our first Thailand stay!

Date of visit: April 2023

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Is Bhutan on your bucket list for your next vacations? Then I have not only lots of travel information about the Land of the Thunder Dragon for you (see next section), but also suggestions where to go for a pre- or post-Bhutan stay in style. Doing so is for all those a necessity who come from a distant country of origin. When my husband and I went to Bhutan recently, we flew via Bangkok. Thus, we opted for staying in Bangkok before flying to our final destination. On our return to Bangkok, we drove on to Hua Hin, a seaside resort south of the capital, for a few quiet days on the beach.

After a short look at my Bhutan mini series, you will find more details from which cities you can get to Bhutan (Bangkok is not the only option). Plus, there will be some advice where to stay at great luxury hotels in those places. Then I come to the actual topic, my pre- and post-Bhutan stays in Thailand.

My mini series about Bhutan

As announced, there is more content on my blog about visiting Bhutan. I started with a travel guide, continued with a perfect 9-day itinerary and informed about touring the country by arrangements of the three luxury hotel brands operating here. As we had opted for COMO as a provider – alternatives are Aman or Six Senses – , you learn in a further post how it was. And just now, I am setting the end point of my Bhutan mini-series, detailing opportunities for ideal pre and post travel plans.

From where to fly to Bhutan?

As mentioned above, you can fly to Bhutan via Thailand. When my husband and I did this at the beginning of April, there were no direct flights from Bangkok. Instead, the plane made a short stop in Dhaka/Bangladesh – where you could stay on board. At the time, you could only fly to Bhutan once a day, and this starting at 5 am and landing in Paro/Bhutan at 08.30 am. The flight was carried out by Drukair, one of two airlines flying to the Land of the Thunder Dragon.

Alternatively, you may fly into Paro from India. When doing so, you may choose between Delhi, Kolkata, Guwahati and Bagdogra. As I can safely assume that the first one is your best choice as a Westerner, here are suggestions as to where to stay in Delhi. And when you are in the area, do not miss a side trip to Agra/Taj Mahal. This is such a worthwhile thing to do!

Another option is it to fly via Singapore. Here is advice which hotel to choose here as a discerning traveler. Finally, you may fly to Bhutan via Kathmandu/Nepal (where I have not been to).

Pre- & post-Bhutan stays in Thailand

As my husband and I have never visited Thailand before, we appreciated the chance to get to know this destination a bit more. We settled for three nights in Bangkok and four nights in Hua Hin, a beach town in Bangkok’s south. While this may sound of quite long stays for stopovers, it actually was not. This because of two reasons. First, we had to leave our hotel in Bangkok at 2 am in the morning of our third night to catch our flight to Bhutan. Second, after returning to Bangkok from Bhutan, we only arrived at our hotel in Hua Hin at 9 pm.

While Bangkok was given as pre-Bhutan stay from the outset,

we thought longer about our post-Bhutan one. We contemplated flying to Kos Samui (flight time 1 h 05 min) or Phuket (flight time 1 h 20 min), Thailand’s most popular vacation destinations. Yet, we were daunted by the thought of more flights. As to upscale beach towns not too far away from Bangkok, there is not much around. Pattaya Beach, the city of sins (2 h by car), was not really an option for us. So, we decided to give Hua Hin (3-4 h by car) a try.

A pre-Bhutan stay in Bangkok

We had heard much about Bangkok, the good and the not so good. Yet, we were positively surprised about its vibe. Of course, it is a modern city nowadays, with lots of skyscrapers and traffic. Yet, if you search hard enough, you find some glimpses of the “old” Bangkok too. While traffic is bad at many times, the drivers are usually well behaved. And yes, at the beginning of April, we had already missed the best travel time for Bangkok (November to February).

When it comes to staying in style in Bangkok, there is an immense number of options. I have not really looked into it as our hotel was fixed from the beginning. Only so much, if I were free to choose I would opt for a luxury hotel by the river

not far away from the Grand Palace and Wat Arun (maybe Mandarin Oriental, Four Seasons or Capella). In our case, we made use of a special combination offer by COMO Hotels and Resorts (our choice for Bhutan lodging). Actually, we had two nights free at their Bangkok branch, COMO Metropolitan. And here is how it was.

Hotel COMO Metropolitan Bangkok

As I outlined above, booking COMO Bhutan for your touring the Land of the Thunder Dragon comes along with special rates at COMO Metropolitan Bangkok (just send COMO Buthan an email). My husband and I happily took the occasion as we had liked our stays at other COMO branches (London, Miami).

COMO Metropolitan Bangkok was built in 2003 and last renovated in 2016. It is a modern high-rise building with 11 floors featuring 169 rooms.

Location

While I rate its location in the central business district of Sathorn as good, I personally think it is better to stay near the Chao Phraya river. This allows you not only to see river life close up but also brings you in proximity to ferries. And traveling on the water is often faster and more relaxing than by other means of transport in this city plagued by traffic. And the latter is especially bad on Sathon Road, where the COMO hotel is located. That said, it is situated in a quiet side street where you are not exposed to noise.

Whereas you need about 40 minutes to reach the river by foot, you are only ten minutes away from the nearest metro station (MRT, Blue Line, Lumphini). Plus, there are numerous great restaurants nearby. And one of the best rooftop bars in town, the Moon Bar at Banyan Tree Hotel, is just round the corner.

Rooms/Pricing at COMO Metropolitan Bangkok

You find quite a wide range of room categories at COMO Metropolitan Bangkok: City Room (26-39 sqm, from 123 US$), Studio Room (43 sqm, from 138 US$), Metropolitan Room (51-54 sqm, from 146 US$), Terrace Room (80 sqm, from 174 US$). Plus, there are three different kind of suites. Price wise, you get away inexpensively. This is especially true compared to luxury front river hotels just as the three I mentioned above. These will easily cost you double or triple.

As mentioned, we spent three nights here, at a discounted rate. And we had a Metropolitan Room Twin.

Metropolitan Room

Our room was on the highest floor with a beautiful view of the central business district of Sathorn.

As to its style, it is sleek with clean lines and neutral colors. While it is predominantly kept in a western style, you also find the one or other eastern accent.

The bathroom is spacious, with the same view as the bedroom. There is a large open shower and a separate tub, all in limestone.

Unfortunately, there is only one, rather small sink, although you could have made two of them without difficulties (enough space).

My husband and I felt at ease here as the room was generously sized and offered lots of natural light from the floor-to-ceiling windows.

Ambiance/Staff at COMO Metropolitan Bangkok

There is an atmosphere of calm and pleasant minimalism throughout the property. As to the rooms, you clearly notice a western vibe yet discreetly paired with eastern touches.

Staff at the reception and the doormen were friendly, helpful and attentive. When it comes to the restaurant (Nahm, modern Thai), I have mixed feelings. As to breakfast, we had no issues.

Dinner was a bit different. While everyone around us got one dish after the other, we had to wait one hour for our amuse bouche. When we inquired about the delay, we got an unsatisfactory response from the waiter. Once the dinner (tasting menu) finally took off, there was an ongoing coming of plates (many at the same time). And the last one was served in less than an hour from the starting time! This is not what a tasting menu is supposed to be! On the positive side, food was good.

Plus, at one time, a friendly female maître d’ came by the table to chat to us.

Facilities/Restaurants 

On site you find a wellness center, the largest of all COMO city hotels. It comes with ten treatment rooms, a 25 m/82 ft outdoor lap pool, a fitness room, a yoga studio, steam rooms and hydro pools.

As to dining at COMO Metropolitan Bangkok, I already mentioned their one and only restaurant Nahm. You get here a modern take on traditional Thai fare. I will go into this Michelin one-star restaurant in more details in a separate post to come about fine dining restaurants in Bangkoks’s Sathorn district.

A post-Bhutan stay in Hua Hin/Thailand

Before singling out Hua Hin as our destination for a relaxing time on the beach after our Bhutan journey (see above), I have never heard about this place. As I learned later, the rather provincial town of Hua Hin has become a popular getaway for both locals and tourists. And this not least to its easy accessibility from Bangkok.

What once began as a quiet fishing village, turned into a summer retreat for Thai royalty in the early 20th century and later also drew Bangkok’s nobility. Nowadays, lots of upscale second homes line the beach front.

As to the latter, it does not earn a prize for being one of the most beautiful ones in Thailand, yet it is not too bad either. The most known is Hua Hin Beach, which stretches for about 5 kilometers (3 miles). It is nice for a long walk, although, in certain parts, much of the beach disappears during high tide.

Aside from being a beach resort, Hua Hin is known for its night markets, numerous golf courses and wellness offers. If you want to do some sightseeing, I would not qualify it as super ideal for this purpose.

As to staying in style, there are some places that fall in this category. Yet, you are not really spoiled for choice here. Now to where my husband and I resided during our four-night stay, and this was at The Barai.

Hotel The Barai Hua Hin/Thailand

While The Barai was opened as standalone luxury hotel and spa in 2007 by Hyatt Hotels, it became affiliated with the adjoining Hyatt Regency Hua Hin Resort in 2012. It is very boutique, with eight suites only.

Location

The Barai is situated about 4 km/2.5 mi south of downtown Hua Hin. I would not encourage you to walk to the town center as the way leads along the busy, nondescript main road. However, you might think about doing so along the beach, for which you need about an hour.

By car, you reach downtown in about ten minutes, but only if traffic is light. This may not be the case on evenings and weekends.

As to other attractions nearby, there are two night markets, open from Friday to Sunday. On the one hand, there is the Cicada Market for predominantely non-food products like art, jewelry, clothing and handcrafted things. On the other hand, you find here the Tamarind Market for foods.

Rooms/Pricing at The Barai Hua Hin

There are eight suites in four two-storey villas.

In case you opt for downstairs (The Barai Pool Suite) as my husband and I did, you are in for a verandah,

plunge pool and garden.

If you go for upstairs (The Barai Balcony Suite), you have a balcony (5 sqm) with sea view.

Both have in common 101 to 144 sqm of space, an oversized king bed (3 m/10 ft wide!),

an entry hall with daybeds, a dining area as well as separate coffee and tea stations,

a huge bathtub with two oversized daybeds,

two individual walk-in closets with bathroom for him and her and a sizable shower (with steam function).

Included in the room rate are a butler service, a daily 60-minute massage treatment for two, an in-suite aromatherapy steam and milk bath (prepared by your butler), laundry service for two items per day, as well as full breakfast, all-day beverages, pre-dinner drinks and snacks (all served at Restaurant McFarland House).

The total package is really impressive! The Barai Pool Suite (101 – 124 sqm) is available from 541 US$, The Barai Balcony Suite (144 sqm) from 495 US$. Another accommodation is also part of the The Barai, the Presidential Pool Villa. It is suitable for a maximum of six adults and comes with a private pool, garden and beach as well as kitchenette, study room and dining table for eight persons (434 sqm, rate upon request).

Ambiance/Staff

As a guest at The Barai, you have to check-in and check-out at the “regular” Hyatt Regency, all the rest is separate. On the hotel’s premises, you also find a restaurant (McFarland House, see below), which is – of course – open to the public. It is the place where you have breakfast when staying at The Barai. Those from other parts of the Hyatt premises may also do so if they wish, but not within a bed and breakfast package. On our four breakfasts, there were never many other people around. It always felt quiet, as it was the case throughout The Barai property. It really had an exclusive feel!

What stood out at The Barai was the excellent butler service. Their staff already got it touch before our stay to arrange bookings for the included daily massage. After check-in at the main reception, a butler picked us up and gave us all the necessary information on the hotel. Every morning, someone from them checked on us during breakfast. When our daily massage came up, one of the team appeared to accompany us to the spa. They also reconfirmed our dinner reservations, organized transport to the restaurants and picked us up to bring us to our car driver.

As to the other staff, the one at the McFarland House was friendly enough. At the spa, we only had contact with the masseuses, who were immaculate (the administrative part at the reception was done by our butler).

Bottom line, it was a very pleasant stay in beautiful and serene surroundings, being pampered all day long!

Facilities/Restaurants

As I already mentioned here at several occasions, the spa plays an important role at The Barai. The name goes back to barays, large reservoirs created by the Khmers for use of their daily life. They were considered as life-determining, yet also a source of their spiritual wellbeing. Here at The Barai, these barays are remembered, both in the construction of the spa

and the tranquility court, a 30 m-/100 ft-long unique swimming channel in a court.

As to the spa treatments, they marry traditional Thai rituals and innovative western therapies. 18 single and double treatment rooms are on offer here at this maze-like red building, where the light is caught to reflect the elements of earth, water, air and fire. All the massages we experienced here were expertly executed, enhanced by the building’s special architecture.

The restaurant on the premises, McFarland House, was already a topic in other sections of my post. It is a two-story pavilion on the beach front, dating back to the 19th century.

It was home of Dr George Mc Farland, a man of many merits for Thailand. Parts of his original house were incorporated in the new building. It is a casual all-day dining venue. On the menu you find modern comfort food plus some healthy options. My husband and I only had breakfast here, which was enjoyable. We especially liked the Energy Bowl, the freshly pressed juices and the inventive egg dishes.

It goes without saying that you can also make use of the facilities and restaurants at the other Hyatt hotels onsite. Yet, we did not see the need to do so as we had with The Barai the perfect sanctum of serenity at our disposal. That said, we ventured to town to have dinner. A future post will go into three fine dining spots we visited.

Looking back and forward on my blog

This was the last of five posts on my Bhutan travel reporting, which went into following topics: travel guide, 9-day itinerary, travel plans of luxury Bhutan hotel brands, COMO Bhutan journey and pre-/post-Bhutan stays.

As announced, there will be some more information about Thailand. As my husband and I are serious foodies, we made sure that we enjoyed ourselves in this respect in Siam too. Find more about our culinary Bangkok and Hua Hin adventures soon on my blog.

Date of visit: April 2023

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The post Where to go for a pre- or post-Bhutan stay first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Where to go for a pre- or post-Bhutan stay appeared first on Swiss Traveler.