This last post of my Taiwan mini-series (planning, one-week and two-week itinerary, favorite luxury hotels) goes into my fine-dining restaurant highlights. On a 17-day trip through beautiful Taiwan, my husband and I tried to dine at good gourmet dining spots whenever possible. While it was no problem finding such places in the island’s big cities, this was a bit different in the countryside. Yet we managed to get more than decent dinners in Taiwan in most cases. As a matter of fact, we only had one meal that we would have preferred to do without. But anyway, that is not the topic here. It is about my three favorite fine-dining restaurants in Taiwan.

Before jumping on the places in question, let us have a short look at foodie restaurants in Taiwan in general.

(Michelin) fine-dining restaurant scene in Taiwan

What Michelin and The World’s 50 Best Restaurants think

Taiwan is continuously making an impact on Asia’s fine-dining scene. Since the inaugural Michelin Guide Taipei in 2018, three more cities were added, Kaohsiung, Tainan and Taichung. In the Michelin’s last Taiwan edition (August 2023), 341 restaurants were included. 3 got three stars (Le Palais Taipei, Taïrroir Taipei and JL Studio Taichung), 6 two stars (Molino de Urdániz, Mudan, Logy, L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon and RAW, all in Taipei, and Liberté in Kaohsiung) and 34 one star. This is quite an impressive performance record, I think!

Also The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list covers Taiwan. 50Best Discovery shows 19 results when doing a search. 13 are in Taipei, 2 in Taichung and 3 in Kaoshiung. All three Michelin three-star establishments are included.

Our choice of fine-dining restaurants in Taiwan

As to our restaurant selection in Taiwan, it was no easy thing to do. First of all, the hottest tables are gone the minute they are open for online reservation (usually made via “inline”). And many among those are also quite expensive. Plus, some only accept bookings by phone. Then, it is sometimes difficult to find English information about certain places online. Not all have websites in English. And if they have, they make it not easy for you to find out where to click for the English version. Furthermore, restaurants are often very specific when it comes to making a reservation. They ask for several things, and you have to pay an amount or the whole meal in advance.

Despite all the difficulties we faced in the reservation process, we managed to find some really good spots. When doing so, we focused on more affordable places, i.e. such ones not asking for much more than 4,000 TWA (111 SFR/US$) for the tasting menu. After all, we had 17 nights to eat out. Except in one case – where we opted for the Signature Wagyu Menu with a Sirloin steak as main course – , we succeeded.

My top 3 fine-dining restaurants in Taiwan

In contrast to my luxury hotel highlights (my post) in Taiwan that I did not list in descending order, I made a ranking for my favorite fine-dining restaurants on this island. After lots of thinking, I have chosen my best thee among 13 places. While my number one was clear from the beginning, number two and three were not so easy to determine. Here is my classification of my personal fine-dining restaurant highlights in Taiwan. Two of them are Michelin listed, from which one even holds a Michelin star. The third is a second restaurant from a three-star Michelin chef on the island.

In this context, I have to add that we dined at one more one-star Michelin spot. And this was the one I have elected as my actual number two of best restaurant experiences in Taiwan. It is about Restaurant Holt in Taipei whose chef (Jeffery Downs) had left for Canada even before our visit.

While they were still serving his creations on our visit, we were told that there would be a rebranding process. And I have just noticed that their website is no longer available. So, I had to rearrange my ranking with a new number two and three. But first to my undisputed number one.

1. Restaurant Marc L³ Kaohsiung

About

According to 50Best Discovery, “reservations here are like gold dust”. I well noticed that when checking out the booking process at Marc L³. So, I bookmarked the exact time when to do the reservation online. And I was successful. Then we were given a short time window to make the full payment of the meal. But instead with credit card, they asked for a bank transfer. This was a no-go option for us (short payment deadline and high fees). Finally, the matter was settled when we involved our hotel concierge (Silks Club, many thanks!). You see, scoring a reservation at one of the hottest tables in Taiwan is no walk in the park!

After this overlong elaboration how to reserve one of the hottest tables in south Taiwan – sorry for this – , now to the place itself. Chef Marc Liao has been in fine dining for twenty years, also abroad for ten something years. In 2019, the Taipei born chef settled town in Kaohsiung. Here he joined Liberté, a two-star Michelin restaurant, before opening his own place in 2021. At Marc L³ – the three L’s stand for Live x Liberal x Limitless – , he serves contemporary cuisine in a casual setting. Marc L³ is listed at Michelin and at 50Best Discovery (The World’s 50 Best Restaurants).

What to expect?

Marc L³ is set in a quiet street in Kaohsiung’s Qianjin District. The spot is small, guests are seated either at the counter on the ground level (nine seats) or upstairs where you find three more tables. There is a cool vibe in here. This shows not only in the decor but also in the staff’s attitude. Marc Liao and three chefs (all women) were at work on our evening and one maître d`along with two servers.

Food wise, you are in for excellent modern European cuisine that is served without chichi. He does this by combining diverse cooking styles and techniques, which results in truly memorable creations. On offer is a sole eight-course menu. It is reasonably priced at 3,600 TWA (100 SFR/US$). According to the chef’s Instagram feed, he plans to open a new chapter where he aims at upleveling. This in order to get closer to the restaurant experience that he carries in his heart. Let us see what he has in mind. I already found that he brilliantly performed on our evening.

How was it dining at Marc L³, my favorite among visited fine-dining restaurants in Taiwan?

Upon arrival, two employees stood ready in front of the chic remodeled townhouse to greet us by name.

No wonder, we were the only Westerners dining here at this night. Once inside, the chef welcomed us too and chatted with us for quite some time. Besides being an outstanding chef – see below – , Marc Liao is a really nice person too! We were seated at the counter – we had not expected this – and were able to watch what was going on in the kitchen – and that was informative and entertaining at the same time!

In terms of food, dining at Marc L³ was one hell of an experience! We were served a delightfully balanced series of inventive dishes (12 of them) that surprised at every bite. The dinner included the chef’s playful take on a hotdog, filled with fish and squid. It came with two sauces, one ginger-onion, the other garlic-béchamel. And there was a black exterior that consisted of chicken broth with black truffle and squid ink.

The meat dish was A5 Wagyu shoulder paired with Anna potatoes and kohlrabi. Three sweet dishes put the final point, a rice pudding with chocolate crunch, the chef’s version of an apple pie and a donut with custard, lime and pistachio. We loved every minute of our dinner at Marc L³. It was a a big deal, both from the culinary aspect and the pleasantly relaxed ambiance we encountered here!

2. Restaurant Sho Kaohsiung, my second favorite of 13 fine-dining restaurants visited in Taiwan

About

Sho is an offshoot of the well-known Restaurant Den in Tokyo. This two-star Michelin spot under the lead of Zaiyu Hasegawa has reinvented kaiseki, an elaborate celebration meal. Chef Fujimoto Shoichi from Kyushu/Japan, who had worked five years in Tokyo, was sent to Kaohsiung in 2020. This in order to spread Den’s concept, adapted to its surroundings. And he does this in the fashionable Qianjin District. The chef, who started his professional career in a car repair shop, is now in charge at a state-of-the-art open kitchen. Here, surrounded by lots of staff, he works his magic. While the ambiance at Sho is a bit clinical (lots of white), it is far from being stiff. The dining spot has a Michelin star and is listed at 50Best Discovery (The World’s 50 Best Restaurants).

What to expect at Sho Kaohsiung?

You are in at Sho for a typical Japanese meal. That already shows from the spot’s exteriors. It is all about minimalism, there is lots of wood and you find here common Japanese plantings.

This finds a continuation in the restaurant interiors. The eyes are immediately drawn to a huge counter where about 14 guests can seat. In addition, there are two private rooms for about 6 to 8 each guests each. Everything is kept in white and light colored wood. The staff is also in white, complete with shirt, jacket and cap. Only the chef wears a black tie.

On offer is a sole tasting menu costing 3,500 TWA (96 SFR/US$) and comprised of ten courses. This is the case when you had opted for the so-called rice upgrade on the booking. This is about one of the signature dishes that the chef brought with him from Restaurant Den in Tokyo. It is kamameshi, a traditional rice dish cooked in an iron pot called kama. We got it once with Wagyu

and the other time with scallop.

At the end of the meal, the guests got some of it formed into balls as goodie to eat it as snack the following day. The other dish “imported” from Japan is a special kind of salad, which is made of ten different kinds of vegetable in various preparations. As to the rest of the menu, Fujimoto Shoichi combines traditional recipes with innovative touches.

How was it?

I mentioned it, the dining room is minimalist. Friendly staff welcomed us and led us to our seats at the counter. Here already a printed menu awaited us. At the other side of the counter, there was order and calm. It did not make the impression of an upcoming meal. Once started, it became busier, yet everything was done in quietude and earnest. At first, only the sous chef was in charge, then the chef appeared and took over some parts of the happenings. In any case, it was fascinating to observe.

Staff was cordial and attentive throughout the evening. They also explained the dishes to us. When it was time for the rice upgrade, the sous chef showed the ingredients and the pot around. After dinner, the chef came to all the guests to hand over the above mentioned goodie and to exchange some words. It truly was a pleasant affair!

The food was excellent, a series of small, well-rounded dishes, all of which were convincing. And it was indeed a modernized version of a typical kaiseki meal. It was a somewhat “stripped down version” of it, without the garnishes being for style. The first three starters were all with seafood (squid, oyster, shrimp), then was sashimi, followed by a meat course, duck with onion, nest fern and black tea. Next were the mentioned salad,

tile fish, the rice dishes I already went into and two desserts. The first was a mousse with perilla, plum and red guave. The second was a monaka. This sweet is made of azuki bean paste sandwiched between two wafers made from mochi. Here it came in combination with pineapple and caramel, delicious!

2. Restaurant KEN CAN by Ken Chan Sun Moon Lake

About

Restaurant KEN CAN by Ken Chan is the chef’s second restaurant on the island, and it is in the Sun Moon Lake area. It was opened in 2019, at Hotel Fleur de Chine.

Ken Chan was the first and only chef awarded three Michelin stars in Taiwan, when the guide was first published in 2018. This was at Restaurant Le Palais at Hotel Palais de Chine in Taipei, and he still holds them.

Ken Chan made an extraordinary career. The Hong Kong born chef started with pushing a dim sum trolley around a restaurant from which guests did make their choice. And he did this after dropping out of school when he was twelve. At the age of 23, he began a new chapter in Taiwan. Here he climbed the career ladder, until he became head chef at a five-star hotel. In 2010, he got the position as executive chef at Restaurant Le Palais, which he still holds, now at the age of 58.

It still seems to be Ken Chan’s goal to reinvent himself. On offer at his restaurant is Cantonese cuisine as well as Sichuan, Fuzhou and Taiwanese ones. Signature dishes are Cantonese-style roast duck, Peking duck and gourd stuffed with shrimp and crabmeat. Dim sum also makes part of the menu. And braised fish maw, abalone with goose foot or bird’s nest soup are favorite – yet expensive – choices too. You get all this in opulent dining-rooms with French-meets-Oriental decor. Be advised that the dress code at Le Palais is strictly formal.

What to expect?

Dining at KEN CAN by Ken Chan at Hotel Fleur de Chine at the lakeshore of Sun Moon Lake is probably not comparable to the one at the three-star Michelin parent restaurant in Taipei – I have not been there. In the Sun Moon Lake area, all is simpler. There is one dining-room, which is not big. It is in a traditional, elegant style yet is no formal affair. A “smart casual” attire is sufficient.

The menus are less expensive than in Taipei. You can choose one of three options that cost either 2,980, 3,980 or 5,980 TWA (83, 110 or 166 SFR/US$). And of course, Cantonese cuisine is on offer as in Taipei.

How was it at KEN CAN by Ken Chan?

On our arrival at the hotel reception, we were escorted to the premises, passing two other (casual) restaurants on the way. Only a few tables were occupied at the flagship spot (on a Friday evening end of March). The atmosphere was quiet, even somewhat relaxed. We had been contacted beforehand in order to enquire what menu we wanted (see above). And we had opted for the middle one. So, the printed menu was already laid out on the table. After some snacks, it was up to fish maw soup. It is a delicacy in China. In case you wonder about it, it is the inflatable swim bladder that most fish use to ascend and descend in water. It was mild in taste otherwise unremarkable – probably something for connoisseurs.

It went on with dishes that are somewhat unfamiliar to Westerners. While the lobster was something we knew and appreciated well, this was not the case as to the sauce. It was a mapo tofu one, a famous Sichuan staple where tofu pieces are braised in a rich, spicy sauce. Next was abalone, which we got to know a few years ago in Hong Kong. It was served on Low Mein (tossed noodles). And it was tender and tasty. I very much liked the next course, spinach, lettuce and tofu skin. The latter is the thin layer that forms at the top when you simmer fresh soy milk.

All in all, it was an interesting and authentic journey through Cantonese cuisine, an experience you cannot not make very often in Western Europe. Service was friendly, helpful and informative, we felt well at ease throughout the evening.

Looking back on my Taiwan journey

While this post focused on my three personal fine-dining highlights in Taiwan, you find on my blog some remarks about all the restaurants my husband and I dined on our 17-day journey. For this purpose, go for Taipei, Taroko and Sun Moon Lake to my one-week itinerary. As for Kenting, Kaohsiung and Beitou-Taipei refer to my two-week travel plan. Overall, I can assure you that – when traveling for food – , you get your money’s worth in Taiwan. While it is not always elaborate gourmet food when leaving the big cities, it was always good wherever we went.

Besides this blogpost about recommended fine dining in Taiwan and the two mentioned itineraries, I also went into two other topics concerning this island. My very first post went into some considerations to make when planning a luxury trip to this country. And the post before the current one was about my favorite three luxury hotels here.

Date of stay: April 2024

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The post My personal fine-dining restaurant highlights in Taiwan first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post My personal fine-dining restaurant highlights in Taiwan appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

After elaborating on general aspects of a trip in style to Taiwan – planning, one-week and two-week itinerary – , it is about the best luxury hotels on this island. On a recent Taiwan journey across the country, my husband and I stayed at six of the best upscale accommodations. While we liked all of them, they did not equally excel in all areas. So, it was possible to choose my personal highlights among them. Find in the following all you have to know about my three lodging favorites in Taiwan. Two are city hotels (Taipei and Kaohsiung), one is in the countryside (Sun Moon Lake, center).

Before delving into the best luxury hotels in Taiwan, some general facts in the context of booking (luxury) hotels on this island.

What to know about booking (luxury) hotels in Taiwan

Whereas there are lots of luxury hotels in the big cities on Taiwan’s west side, this is not so when leaving this part of the island. As the majority of travelers to Taiwan go to the same few locations when doing so – Taroko Gorge, Sun Moon Lake, Alishan – , you find high-end lodging in these spots too. Said that, Alishan makes an exception here. From what I learn, the accommodations here are neither ubiquitous (they sell out fast) nor can they be considered as good (old and overpriced). As to the other places mentioned, there is a choice of upscale hotels, however not a wide one.

When it comes to rates, I found that the city hotels on the island’s west side (Taipei and Kaohsiung) usually offer good value for money. I have read that people from Japan, Hong Kong or Singapore come here “to live it up” at Taipei hotels, which they often could not afford in their own countries. I personally found our Taipei accommodation (Mandarin Oriental) reasonably priced, and this much in contrast to most of their branches in Europe! And our hotel in Kaoshiung (Silks Club) even was a bargain.

However, as to luxury hotels outside of cities, they cost more. We paid quite some rates, both in the Taroko Gorge (Silks Place) and Sun Moon Lake (The Lalu). But as mentioned, almost every traveler to Taiwan comes here, and there is not much competition.

I start with two of the best luxury hotels in Taipei and Kaohsiung before continuing with my personal lodging highlight in the Sun Moon Lake area.

1. Hotel Mandarin Oriental Taipei, one of the best luxury hotels in Taiwan

Mandarin Oriental is for sure one of the best luxury hotels in Taipei if not in the entire country of Taiwan. And it also is one of the newer ones (opened in 2014). In contrast to the buildings of its competitors which are often made of concrete, glass and steel, it is somewhat unique. It is reminiscent of Medieval European architecture, albeit it definitely is a mix of different styles from several countries. You find here for example a dome like in Florence or fountains just as in Versailles. Without doubt, is an impressive property designed to impress.

Location

Mandarin Oriental Taipei is located on Dunhua North Road, Taipei’s main boulevard, in the Songshan District. While being in downtown Taipei in one of several business districts in town (financial industry), its situation comes handy enough yet is not exceptionally good. It might be favorable for domestic travelers as it is near the Songshan Airport (5 minutes by car), for others – especially leisure travelers – it is not so. This because it is a bit away from the main tourist sights. Said that, it is close to the next MRT (7 minutes by foot), which is a great plus. In addition, the neighborhood seems to be in transition. You find here new buildings but also lots of such ones soon to be demolished.

Ambiance/Staff

The hotel exudes an upscale ambiance. This is true not only for the elegant entry hall but also THE ARCADE, the adjoining shopping complex. While the latter appeared a bit without life on our visits, it is remarkable with its glamorous shops along marble floors and the striking Italian-like courtyard plaza. For Western Europeans, the whole property might seem a bit too much in terms of opulence and eclecticism, yet it definitely is a sight to behold.

The staff is as excellent as you would expect at a hotel of this caliber. The standard of service never fails to impress, be it at the reception, at the M.O. Bar or at Café Un Deux Trois where they serve breakfast. Each and every staff member we got in touch with had a good command of English. And that was a rarity on our Taiwan trip. Staying at Mandarin Oriental came closest to a typical western hotel experience. All the other accommodations we lodged at in this country had more Taiwanese touches.

Rooms/Pricing

Out of the 330 rooms in total, you can choose among an array of categories. As to rooms, it starts with the Deluxe Room (55 sqm), then goes over the Mandarin Room (70 sqm) to the Mandarin Premier Room (70 sqm). Then, there is a number of suites. All accommodations are also available as Club versions, i.e. with access to The Oriental Lounge. As you may have noticed, all the rooms are oversized.

My husband and I opted for the Mandarin Premier Room. What it differentiates it from the Mandarin Room is the fact that it has two rooms. You find onsite a private master bedroom plus a living area.

The bathroom is generous, clad in marble and with a bathtub as well as a large walk-in shower.

The toilet (a Japanese version) is separated from it. The space is classically furnished with plush carpets and modern touches. And you have the benefit of a city view. The rate was 411 SFR/US$ for two per day with full breakfast (in March 2024).

We loved our Mandarin Premier Room. The one thing that I did not like was the lack of storage room. But this seems to be a general problem at hotels inTaiwan. Almost all the properties we stayed at made the impression of being designed for a short stay only. In addition, we often also encountered – at Mandarin Oriental Taipei too – “fake” furnitures where you could not store anything (?).

Restaurants at Mandarin Oriental Taipei

You find here six restaurants. Ya Ge is their flagship one serving Chinese food in an elegant ambiance and holding a Michelin star. Plus, there is Bencotto for contemporary Italian cuisine in a relaxed setting and Café Un Deux Trois where you get international cuisine in a casual atmosphere. For light meals, you can choose among The Jade Lounge (afternoon tea), M.O. Bar (drinks and snacks)

and The Mandarin Cake Shop (cakes and patisserie).

I have to admit that we only had breakfast at Café Un Deux Trois, which was fabulous. The space is huge, lively, and tables are packed close together. Yet staff tends to seat Westerners at quiet spots, which was appreciated by us.

We had seriously thought about booking a table at their Chinese place Ya Ge. It gets good reviews and is adequately priced. Ultimately, we opted to explore the dining scene outside the hotel to get a feel for “real” Taiwanese food culture.

Other facilities

Of course, Mandarin Oriental Taipei leaves nothing to be desired when it comes to spa and wellness! It boasts one of the most luxurious spas in town (3,500 sqm). There are heated water experiences, 12 treatment rooms, a yoga studio, a spa boutique, relaxation facilities and a 20-m/66 ft outdoor swimming pool.

Overall Mandarin Oriental Taipei as one of the best luxury accommodations in Taiwan

Mandarin Oriental Taipei is possibly the best luxury hotel in Taipei or even in Taiwan. Together with the adjoining shopping complex THE ARCADE it is a large-scale undertaking. Its opulent and eclectic Medieval European architecture is impressive yet might be a bit too much for Western Europeans. Everything at this glamorous hotel is of the highest standard. You almost cannot find fault with it. And the rates are affordable compared to many other MO branches in Europe. The only thing that I find slightly subpar is its location. It might be favorable for local business but not so for leisure travelers. Yet the proximity of the MRT somewhat compensates for this disadvantage.

2. Hotel Silks Club Kaohsiung

Hotel Silks Club in Kaohsiung, Taiwan’s most southern big city, was a real find! I had long thought about where to stay on the island’s south-western coast. Originally, I had been inclined to opt for Tainan, as it is probably the best city to experience Taiwanese history and culture. But none of its upscale hotels could fully persuade me. So, we settled for the nearby more cosmopolitan city of Kaohsiung.

And we did not regret it! We even considered our choice of accommodation as one of the best luxury hotels in Taiwan! Plus, we had three nights here, so we could use one of it for a day trip to Tainan.

Location

Silks Club sits in the heart of the Asia New Bay Area waterfront redevelopment, a bit south of the city center. While the hotel is not so centrally located as I had wished for, its situation can still be considered as good. It is within walking distance of two MRT stations and a Circular Light Rail station. You reach the Kaohsiung Railway Station and the Kaohsiung International Airport in about a 20-minute drive. To get to the Taiwan High Speed Rail Station allow more time, maybe 25 to 30 minutes by car (traffic can be heavy).

Having uttered some criticism about Silks Club’s location, they are in good company. Its two main competitors, InterContinental and TAI Urban Resort are nearby. And great restaurants are within easy reach as well as shopping opportunities (Dream Mall, Taiwan’s largest department store).

Ambiance/Staff at Silks Club Kaohsiung

Silks Club, opened in 2017, is part of the The Silks Hotel Group. This is the largest and most profitable hotel group listed on the Taiwan Stock Exchange. It operates the Regent Taipei and five other hotel brands, among them Silks Club and Silks Place. While the latter is about cultural luxury lifestyle hotels, the former is into art, design and boutique. This focus already shows when entering the premises of Silks Club Kaohsiung. You are immediately captured by the “Dancing Particles” (watch video when they are dancing: E378E91F-C384-436E-B2C4-36C67895026E_2_0_a ART+COM Studios) in the lobby.

The motion art sculpture features 168 metal spheres that float and dance above a pole of water, amazing! But there is more, works of over 200 artists are showcased throughout the hotel.

Apart from all the art that appears everywhere, the hotel’s interior design is remarkable too. It is a masterpiece in minimalistic magnificence. I would go so far as to say that is the most beautiful sleek, urban hotel I have seen lately. More to some features in the sections about rooms and restaurants.

As to the staff, I can only say respectively write positive things about it. That starts with the concierge/bell desk – where we chatted a few times to a nice employee –  and goes over to the staff at the restaurants as well as the hotel maintenance workers we were in touch. All were trained in the way of generous spirit. We felt well looked after and did not have to worry about a thing.

Rooms/Pricing

Silks Club Kaohsiung extends over 29 floors and features 147 guest rooms. There are only 6 to 10 units on each floor, and 3 elevators are at your disposal. As to room categories, the offer ranges from Deluxe King/Twin (59 sqm) to Premier King/Twin (66 sqm), Studio Deluxe King (63 sqm), Junior Suite King (80 sqm) and several suites.

My husband and I had chosen the most upscale room (not suite) with a twin bed. And that was a Premier Twin. What a great accommodation that was! We were on the 25th floor with wonderful city views. Not only it was spacious, but also outfitted with state-of-the-art comforts. These included special measures towards sound- and lightproofing, North American oak flooring and premium Italian handmade mattresses. It was kept in neutral hues with cool blue toned accents.

The bathroom was huge and made of marble. Separated from the oversized sink area there was a bath tub with view plus a shower. And yet in another (separated) part the toilet.

And imagine, all this came for the rate of 265 SFR/US$ for two per day including a full breakfast (April 2024)! The only thing that was suboptimal in our room was the slightly insufficient air-condition in the bathroom. It cooled down the adjacent walk-in closet rather than the sink area.

Restaurants

In terms of restaurants there is the fine-dining space of Ukai-tei with the adjoining Dassai Bar as well as the In Jade Lounge and Bar.

The latter is destined for breakfast, afternoon tea as well as drinks and snacks in the evening. The former offers a lunch and a dinner service. It is about the first overseas restaurant of the Japanese brand Ukai-tei. In Kaohsiung, you can choose among three dining-rooms, designed by interior designer Hashimoto Yukio: Ukai-tei Teppanyaki,

Ukai Kaiseki and Grill Ukai Kaohsiung. They are connected by a stunning spiral staircase. It came per ship in one piece and was placed into the construction before building the restaurant around it.

Breakfast at the In Jade Lounge was lovely. We could make our choice out of five set menus served on a tray.

In addition, we could help ourselves from a buffet. As to dinner, my husband and I went to Ukai-tei Teppanyaki where we had our own chef who prepared a fabulous Ukai Signature Wagyu Menu before our eyes.

Out of the three Japanese Wagyu main courses, we decided on the middle of three options (Sirloin for 5800 TWD / 161 SFR/US$; Rump/Tenderloin would have lost 4,800/6,500 TWD / 133/181 SFR/US$). That made it the most expensive meal of our Taiwan journey!

Other facilities

The hotel boasts a Valmont Spa, a sauna area, a well-equipped gym and a semi-open-air infinity pool. The latter can also be used for parties or events. Also the In Jade Lounge serves as a multiple function room for events of all kind.

Overall Silks Club Kaohsiung as one of the best luxury hotels in Taiwan

I have rarely seen a city hotel that is so cool, urban and stylish. Already the 4D kinetic art installation in the lobby set an example for what to expect at Silks Club Kaohsiung. And this continues throughout the hotel. They showcase art works from a mix of local artists and renowned international names that is unparalleled. Also the two-story Japanese restaurant with its unique spiral staircase is a sight. And the modern generously sized rooms are a traveler’s dream! Yet it is not only about style here, but the substance is persuasive as well. Service is immaculate, food is great, and facilities are state-of-the-art! Moreover, this high level of quality comes at a reasonable room price. However, the Signature Wagyu Menu at Restaurant Ukai-tei Teppanyaki has a high price tag. Notwithstanding that, Silks Club Kaohsiung is definitely one of the best luxury hotels in Taiwan.

3. The Lalu Sun Moon Lake

The Lalu on the Sun Moon Lake in the country’s center makes it into my top three luxury hotels in Taiwan because of the beauty of this place. While many aspects as to this accommodation were convincing, others were not. Even though, my husband and I were in awe of this stunning hotel with its unmatched lake views, serene ambiance and intriguing history.

Location

I already gave a spoiler, The Lalu’s location on the Lalu Pensinsula on Sun Moon Lake’s northern coastline is breathtakingly beautiful. It is situated at the foothills of the Central Mountain Range, just by the island’s largest body of water. Next to the small peninsula there is the main tourist village in the area, Shuishe. You get here either from the Taiwan’s west side (Taipei, Taichung or Kaohsiung) or from the east side (Taroko Gorge/Hualien). My husband and I did the latter, arriving by rental car. While this is a wonderful drive through the mountains (allow at least four hours), it is no easy thing (winding and narrow roads).

Ambiance/Staff

What started as a modest cabin in the Japanese colonial time, became later an official government guest house under the Japanese Crown Prince Hirohito and later under President Chiang Kai-Shek. In 20o2, it opened as a luxury hotel. It was rebuilt from the original palace, saving only its beams, columns and floor. All the rest was replaced. The architect in charge was the Australian Kerry Hill who had already designed several Aman hotels. His premise for The Lalu was “Ongoing style”. And in my humble opinion, he succeeded. The hotel is as fresh as it was when built. It is timeless design in perfection.

An interesting detail with The Lalu is the importance of lighting, which was integrated into the planning from the outset. At daytime for example, seven lighting changes occur at different times and in different settings. And you really notice, the hotel’s appearance seems to fluctuate during the course of a day. Yet, it is always a serene, harmonious place. Gazing at the lake from here has such a calming effect on you.

As to the staff, not everyone seems to feel that magic. Whereas the front desk’s performance was immaculate, this was not always the case at the bar and the restaurants. More details on that follows in the section about restaurants.

Rooms/Pricing

There are 96 rooms in total. All to them are suites, sizable (at least 83 sqm) and have a separate living room. An exception here are the Courtyard Pool Villas (333 sqm), which have instead a lounge, a courtyard and an outdoor dining pavilion (there is a handful of them). The least expensive room is the Courtyard Suite – where lake view might be obstructed. The next more expensive is the Lakeside Suite 2nd to 3rd floor, then follows the Lakeview Suite 5th to 7th floor. The top end accommodation is the above mentioned Courtyard Pool Villa. Plus, you also find onsite Lakeview Suites with two bedrooms.

We had opted for a Lakeview Suite on an upper floor and were delighted by ours on the 7th floor! The room was kept in a minimal Zen-like design with lots of wood. There was a spacious, tastefully furnished living room,

which was separated from the bedroom by the television and a closet.

The bathroom was in granite with a large bath tub. And the balcony spanned the full length of the accommodation, offering absolutely stunning lake views. Lying on the outdoor daybed (for two) and letting our gaze wander was such a relaxing thing to do!

The rate for this Lakeview Suite amounted to 599 SFR/US$ for two per day including a full breakfast.

Restaurants

There is quite a choice when it comes to restaurants at The Lalu. Open to the public are The Lake View Chinese Restaurant (fine dining)

and the Oriental Brasseries (Asian & Western contemporary cuisine in a relaxed ambiance). The other three only admit hotel guests and members. It is about The Japanese Restaurant (modern cuisine & Teppanyaki),

The Lobby Bar (drinks & snacks)

and The Tea House (snacks, desserts & tea, only at daytime).

We had breakfast at the Oriental Brasseries, which was solid but not really exceptional. Then we had dinner at both the Chinese

and the Japanese place.

While food in both places was good, the service was not. At the former, we were poorly advised about how many dishes to choose. At the latter, the servers put the dishes in front of us without any explanations (set menu). And at the bar, the bar maid was not welcoming, and this on two occasions. Bottom line, service at the restaurants at The Lalu leaves much to be desired – that is a pity!

Other facilities

You find a spa in the hotel’s east wing where you are in here for massage treatments, saunas, steam rooms, a gym and a hot spring. And there are complimentary yoga classes. The infinitive pool lined with lots of sun beds is great. It is 60 m/ 197 ft long and offers splendid lake views.

Overall as The Lalu as one of the best luxury accommodations in Taiwan

The Lalu is an absolutely stunning property in an unbeatable location with wonderful lake views. The rooms are beautiful and spacious. This is true for most of its communal spaces too, the lobby, the bar or the Japanese restaurant (however some limit the access to hotel guests and members). Also the pool and the adjoining tea house are feasts for the eyes. The front desk service is immaculate, but the one at the Chinese and the Japanese restaurants as well as at the bar do not meet the standard of a high-end five-star property. In terms of food, we had good although not really memorable dinners at the above mentioned dining spots. Regardless of The Lalu’s flaws, it definitely is part of the best luxury hotels in Taiwan.

What about the other three hotels of our Taiwan trip? 

As hinted, we stayed at six luxury hotels on our Taiwan trip. And you already know that we were in favor of all of them. If you want to know more about the individual places, check out my Taiwan one-week and two-week itineraries. Follow the links below:

• Silks Place Taroko
• Gloria Manor Kenting
• Grand View Resort Beitou

Looking back and ahead on my Taiwan journey

So far, I have published considerations to make when planning a (luxury) Taiwan trip, a one-week itinerary (Taiwan’s north) and a two-week itinerary (whole island, the one my husband and I did). Next on my blog – and the last Taiwan post – is about my three restaurant highlights in this country. And they are all fine-dining spots, as we consider ourselves as gourmets. It is our aim to indulge in great food not only at home in Switzerland but also when traveling. Yet we always have an eye on value for money too!

Date of stay: April 2024

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The post My personal luxury hotel highlights in Taiwan appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Now it is to the details of a two-week Taiwan itinerary. My last post was about a one-week travel plan comprising the island’s north. If you have two weeks at your disposal, then you can also travel Taiwan’s south. Plus, you have the option to build in one more stay in the north. Such a travel plan allows you to take your time and to explore sights in the respective surroundings too. Again, I only included stops that ensure travel in style. That means places where you find options for staying at luxury hotels and dining at (Michelin) gourmet restaurants. Yet – as always – , I only considered establishments offering value for money.

There are six stops in total. Compared to the one-week itinerary that I described in my last post, there are three more. Two are in the south (Kenting National Park and Kaohsiung), one is in the north (a second Taipei stay). Find in the following my Google Map of a 17-day road trip in Taiwan that my husband and I did. It can be shortened to 14 days without any problems:

Overview on my Google Map of our 17-day Taiwan itinerary

As you could see, we started and ended the journey in Taipei with four stops in-between. The first stop was on the Island’s northeast, at the Taroko Gorge near the seaside town of Hualien. Then we traveled inland to Sun Moon Lake in the foothills of the Central Mountain Range. We continued towards south to the Kenting National Park. And before returning to Taipei, we had our one and only stay in a big city apart from Taipei, and this in Kaohsiung.

As I already went into the first three stops in my mentioned one-week travel plan, you find in this post about a two-week Taiwan itinerary only explanations to the last three ones (Kenting National Park, Kaohsiung and north Taipei). Again, I start with a short description of the respective town/region. Then I let you know what to do here in a few sentences. Finally, I go briefly into each of the high-end hotels we stayed and the (Michelin) fine dining spots we ate.

A 17-day Taiwan round trip with six stops in style

See details to stop 1 – 3 here

4. Kenting National Park (south, 2 nights)

About

The Kenting National Park occupies the entire southern tip of the country. And while Kenting is said to have the best beaches in Taiwan, they are subpar to those of typical beach destinations. Nonetheless, the area boasts a lovely coastal scenery and is well worth a full-day exploring.

Things to do here include: walk in the Sheding Natural Park with its huge coral rocks (volunteers guide you around if you wish), Sail “Nixon” Rock, Taiwan’s southernmost point, Longpan Park (great coastal views)

and Hengchun (old city wall with four ancient gates,

Old Street

with Patisserie Ce Moment).

Hotel: Gloria Manor

This is yet another property that has a connection to the former president Chiang Kai-shek. It used to be one of his presidential guesthouses. And this is easy to understand in light of the picturesque mountain and sea scenery you find here. The hotel is remotely located inside the Kenting National Forest Recreation Area, surrounded by tropical greenery.

Gloria Manor took over the site in 2012. The building convinces with minimalistic design that blends nicely into the natural setting. You find here 60 rooms in a range of categories. Yet it does have to be one with a sea view as this is probably the main attraction of staying here.

Breakfasts are excellent, you can make your choice out of several ones served on a tray.

And you can have it also in the pleasant outdoor area. Mu is the only restaurant on site, find some details below.

Restaurants: Mu Restaurant (at Hotel Gloria Manor)

At Gloria Manor’s Mu Restaurant you get excellent Taiwan cuisine with a modern twist. And the place strictly adheres to the principle “not in season, not on the menu”. The setting is relaxed yet still with an upscale touch. My husband and I dined here on both evenings and liked what we got. Good choices from the à la carte menu were Wonton Soup, Crab Omelet, Fried Rice with Pineapple & Dolphinfish, Mango Pomelo Sago or Baked Pudding.

There is also a set menu (1,680 TWD / 47 SFR/US$).

5. Kaohsiung (south, 3 nights)

About

Kaohsiung is Taiwan’s third most populous city and is home to the island’s largest port. While it long used to be an industrial city, it has been reorienting itself toward tourism as well as art and culture since since the turn of the millennium. This shows in the vast Pier-2 Art Center where former shipping warehouses were turned into shops and cafés. And there are museums, art installations and street art. I for one liked the dynamic vibe of Kaohsiung!

As to more classic sights here, the scenic Lotus Pond in the north of the city is an good place to go. It is known for its 20 temples or so along the shoreline and nearby.

And there is the Confucius Temple too. Another big name attraction in the area is the Fo Guang Shan Monastery, outside of town, which is the largest in all of Taiwan and quite a sight.

Last but not least, we used Kaohsiung for a day trip to Tainan. This is Taiwan’s original capital and still retains a traditional vibe. Go to the city center first (Confucius Temple, Hayashi Departement Store, Snail Alley & Shennong Street, two quaint streets;

then proceed to the Anping District (Anping Fort, Anping Old Street, Anping Treehouse).

Hotel: Silks Club

Silks Club is one kind of a cool, urban hotel, attracting business and leisure travelers alike. It is located in the emerging neighborhood of Qianzhen, opened in 2017. Already the sleek lobby with the reflecting pool of water impresses.

And it continues when it comes to the rooms. The 147 units have an average size of 66 sqm, floor-to-ceiling windows and oversized bathrooms.

The place for breakfast is In Jade Lounge – you get it on a tray plus there is small buffet, and it is a tasty affair.

You can also come here for drinks in the evening. The restaurant, a branch of the Japanese Ukai Tei, is divided into several sub-spots (Teppanyaki, Kaiseki & Grill). Find more info on the former below.

Restaurants: Ukai-tei Teppanyaki (at Silks Club), Marc L³ & Sho

For our Kaohsiung food adventures, my husband and I chose three Michelin dining spots. One even has a Michelin star (Sho), two are on the 50Best Discovery list (Sho & Marc L³).

I start with the “hotel restaurant”, Ukai-tea Teppanyki, where they serve a Wagyu menu (Rump 4,800 TWD, Sirloin 5,800 TWD, Tenderloin 6,500 TWD). We opted for the Sirloin (161 SFR/US$) and could witness quality ingredients being cooked on the iron plate right before our eyes. And we even had a chef who exclusively cooked for the two of us! That was quite an experience, especially when it was up to the preparation of the abalone (from live to death).

Our favorite dinner in Kaoshiung and probably on our whole Taiwan trip was the one at Marc L³. The three L’s stand for Live x Liberal x Limitless. Reservations here are difficult to get, and we had to pay our meal in advance (which was not a no-brainer to arrange). Yet, once seated at the counter (9 seats only), we were in for culinary magic! Unique French fare was prepared in front of us, and this as eight-course menu (3,960 TWD / 112 SFR/US$) in a relaxed ambiance.

And the chef is such a nice guy too, communicative, approachable and amiable! What a great evening we had here!

Dining at Sho, an outpost of the Tokyo famed Den Restaurant, was a epicurean highlight as well. We were treated to an exquisite Japanese meal with creative touches. Quite in contrast to Marc L³, it took place in a somewhat chilly ambiance. The place – a counter with 14 seats – had an almost clinical appearance. Notwithstanding that, we truly enjoyed the tasting menu (3,500 TWD + rice upgrade 700 TWD / 119 SFR/US$). And if you are wondering about the rice upgrade, go for it! It is a traditional rice dish cooked in an iron pot called a kama, once with Wagyu and the other time with scallops.

6. Taipei (Beitou District, north of the center, 3 nights)

About

Our second stay in Tapei was in Beitou, the capital’s most northern district. While it is not too far away from Taipei’s center (half an hour by MRT), it has a less urban feel. The hilly area is known for its hot springs and is close to beautiful nature.

We had planned to explore Taiwan’s north from Beitou. Yet we only managed to do one such day trip because of not so good weather. And this was to Jiufen,

a seaside town in the lush mountains northeast of Taipei (book a Taiwan tea time at Jiufen Artist Teahouse, expensive yet worthwhile;

escape the crowds by hiking the Jinguashi Aqueduct Trail). We left out the second one to Yangmingshan National Park on Taipei’s northern fringe. Instead, we headed to central Taipei once again, to the University District. And it was lively, even on a Sunday. And do not miss the sights in Beitou: Thermal Valley, Puji Temple,

Beitou Library, Xinbeitou Historic Station.

Hotel: Grand View Resort Beitou

While Beitou is not the first address for first timers to Taipei seeking to explore the city to the fullest, it was ideal for our purposes. Having already done the capital’s major sights, we longed for a quiet place to spend our last few days in Taiwan. Staying here is the best of both worlds: being in relative proximity to Taipei’s center and at the same surrounded by nature.

Grand View Resort Beitou is the most luxurious among the many hot-spring hotels that make use of the sulfurous hot-spring water that bubbles from the ground. The relatively large and modern property (opened in 2011) stands high on a slope with beautiful views of Beitou and beyond.

All the 66 guest rooms are spacious and come with hot-spring bathrooms, allowing a private soaking experience. I think the accommodations could use a little touch up, especially the wet area (the moisture from the hot springs does not help).

Breakfasts are really good here, served on a tray. And they even offered another variety on our third day. There are three restaurants, from which we tried out two (we did not eat at Aqua Deck with light continental food). Find more details in the next section.

Restaurants: Chinese Cuisine & C’est Bon (both at Hotel Grand View Resort)

We had dinner every evening at Hotel Grand View Resort Beitou. As I had read good things about the Chinese Cuisine – it is Michelin listed – , we went there twice.

One evening, we tried out the French place, C’est Bon.

While both offered fine food, we found C’est Bon better. We had a lovely dinner here indulging in immaculately prepared French food with a Taiwanese twist. Out of the four set menus, we ordered the one with Boston Lobster (3,080 TWD / 87 SFR/USD$), and we relished it.

As to the Chinese place, we had a not so good dining experience on our first evening. Whereas the food was good (we had opted for à la carte), service and setting were less so. Everything was better on our second dinner – we had the Vegetarian Set Menu (2,280 TWD / 64 SFR/US$). Yet C’est Bon has our love!

Looking back and ahead on my Taiwan journey

The start made some considerations to bear in mind when planning a (luxury) Taiwan trip (my post), followed by a proposal for one-week itinerary here. This is actually the first part of the journey my husband and I did on this island. It includes the three major travel highlights in this country, Taipei, Taroko Gorge and Sun Moon Lake. As luxury traveler and  fine dining lover, I also give recommendations as to where to stay and dine in style. In addition, I go into what to do in all theses places, plus some ideas for side trips. In this very post, you get the same thing, yet for the second part of our trip. Taken together, you have info on our original 17-day itinerary (that you can shorten to a 2-week Taiwan itinerary). Next on my blog, you will find out about my personal hotel and restaurant highlights in Taiwan in some more details.

Date of stay: April 2024

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The post Taiwan in style, a 2-week road trip itinerary appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

While my last post went into general considerations to make when planning a Taiwan trip, this one is about a concrete one-week itinerary. When my husband and I toured beautiful Formosa – as it was called by its discoverers – , we actually had 17 days at our disposal (for the whole island). Yet, you can shorten the journey to one week (north only). This still allows you to see the island’s three major highlights – Taipei, Taroko Gorge and Sun Moon Lake. And my one-week proposal is about a Taiwan trip in style, meaning staying in luxury hotels and dining in (Michelin) gourmet restaurants (if available).

Before coming to the details of the three individual stops, here my Google Map of this one-week Taiwan trip.

Overview on my Google Map of a 1-week Taiwan itinerary

No Taiwan trip is complete without exploring its capital of Taipei. While I put it as first destination on my Google Map, you can of course also do it at the end of the journey. The second stop is on the Island’s northeast, at the Taroko Gorge near the seaside town of Hualien. Then you travel inland to Sun Moon Lake in the foothills of the Central Mountain Range before returning to Taipei.

I start with a short description of the respective place. Then I let you know what to do here in a few sentences. Last but not least, I go briefly into a high-end hotel and some nearby (Michelin) fine dining spots.

A 1-week Taiwan round trip with three stops in style

1. Taipei (Songshan District, near the city center, 3 nights)

About

Taipei is a must for every Taiwan traveler. You find here a fascinating mix of Chinese, Japanese, indigenous and western influences. And although it is a deeply urban place, nature is never too far away. So, it is the ideal starting and/or ending point for your island exploring.

When it comes to activities, Taipei 101 for a view of the city and the Elephant Mountain for a view of Taipei 101 are musts for first timers to Taipei. Also the political Taipei around the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall has to be on every traveler’s agenda.

Further things to do are the Dihua Old Street,

The Dalongdong Baoan Temple

and the nearby Confucius Temple.

Hotel: Mandarin Oriental Taipei

Before setting off on our Taiwan round trip, we lodged at the Mandarin Oriental in the Songshan District. This business district (financial industry) is an okay location for exploring Taipei, however not the most ideal one. Most sights are in the following districts: Zhongzheng, Wanhua, Datong, Xinyi and Da’an. And Songshan is slightly too far north and east compared to the before mentioned ones. Yet, you are close to a MRT station and once on the subway, you get everywhere quickly enough.

As to the hotel, it is opulent indeed. While being a newly built complex (opened in 2014 together with THE ARCADE, a shopping center), it is reminiscent of Medieval European architecture in an eclectic style.

The 303 guest rooms are more spacious than at its competitors. They are classically furnished with contemporary touches and boast generous marbled bathrooms.

And you get a fabulous breakfast at Café Un Deux Trois, a modern buffet style restaurant. Service is as excellent as you might expect it with this prestigious hotel group. And rates are affordable enough, in contrast to many other MO hotels in Europe.

Restaurants: Holt & Hosu

UPDATE: Restaurant Holt’s website is no longer available

We did not have dinner at Mandarin Oriental Taipei – except some small bites in the M.O. Bar after a late arrival on our first day in Taiwan (which were good).

Instead we had decided on two Michelin listed restaurants in the adjacent neighborhood.

Holt is a one-star Michelin restaurant offering exquisite contemporary European food. On our evening, they still served creations by Canadian chef Jeffery Downs, although he had already left for good in the direction of his home country. We were told that they are now in a rebranding process.

The tasting menu we got (3,980 TWD / 112 SFR/US$) was one of the trip’s highlight food wise delivering very high quality.

While Holt was really great yet very European, we were keen on trying food prepared in a more Taiwanese way. So, we had opted for Hosu, a modern Taiwanese dining spot, which is Michelin listed. And we were delighted by this cute little place whose name means “Good Island”. They served a tasting menu (2,880 TWD / 81 SFR/US$) that surprised at every turn.

2. Taroko Gorge (northeast, 2-3 days)

Currently largely closed due to earthquake in April 2024!

About

Taroko Gorge is one of Taiwan’s top scenic attractions. It is a steep valley created by the Liwu river and makes part of the Taroko National Park. The first 18 km/11 mi of Highway 8, coming from Taiwan’s east coast, are what is known as Taroko Gorge. The thing to do here are hikes of various lengths. Usually one full day is enough to get quite a good insight. My husband and I stayed three nights here, and this right inside the gorge.

As to actual things to do, be advised that usually one or more sights or trails are closed (it is a geologically active site). So, check what is open before you go. We did the following activities (on one full day): Swallow Grotto (short walk), Buluowan Suspension Bridge (crossing the bridge only), Eternal Spring Shrine Trial (closed, you could only walk to the first Shrine), Baiyang Trail to Water Curtain Cave (we did not go in, one and a half hour),

Lushui Trail (only a short part, closed after Small Cave).

The second day, we made a day trip to the Hualien area and a bit more in the south direction. It lead us along the east coast to Qixingtan Beach, Qizingtan (quaint seaside town), Baqi Viewpoint (nice),

Jiqi Beach, Fengbin Skywalk (closed) and Xin She Rice Terraces. Then we returned inland via the towns of Guangfu, Fenglin and Shoufeng. Here we made a side trip to Liyu Lake before going back to the Taroko Gorge.

Hotel: Silks Place Taroko

Closed until mid 2024 due to earthquake in April 2024!

As announced, the hotel is located within the Taroko Gorge. Precisely, it is in Tianxiang, a small village at the top of the gorge, about one hour from Hualien City. If you value the best possible situation for exploring the Taroko Gorge, then you are right here. The property used to be an official government guest house under the regime of president Chiang Kai-shek. In 2010, it opened after a renovation as Silks Place Taroko.

While the hotel’s exteriors are not necessarily a feast for the eyes, its interiors are nice, kept in a contemporary style. The 160 rooms are split over two floors, the Retreat Floor and Resort Floor. The former are more luxurious and offer access to the top floor Retreat Lounge where complimentary snacks and drinks are served all day.

As a Retreat Floor guest, you can have breakfast at either the Wellesley Buffet or the Retreat Lounge (served on a tray). For dinner, you can choose between the mentioned Wellesley Buffet or the Chinese Restaurant. Details to both of them follow in the next section.

Restaurants: Mei Yuan & Wellesley Buffet (both at Hotel Silks Place Resort)

As to the food at Hotel Silks Place Taroko, it was not the best we experienced on our Taiwan trip yet still decent enough. We had opted to be on half board and had to choose where we wanted to have dinner twice. As we do not like buffet restaurants, we went to the Chinese restaurant Mei Yuan on two evenings. And we had Shabu Shabu Hot Pot both times, yet we did not mind. This because it was prepared with good quality ingredients (which are boiled in a pot with soup in front of you).

When it comes to the Wellesley Buffet, we were quite a bit underwhelmed by the experience. Again, the quality of food was high and there was a wide range of culinary options. And the staff ensured that the buffet was kept immaculately.

Yet, it was like being in a bee house, with guests buzzing around and voices overlapping in every direction. It was not like something I expected from a five-star property.

3. Sun Moon Lake (center, 2-3 days)

About

Sun Moon Lake, at the foothills of the Central Mountain Range, is the island’s largest body of water. It is at an altitude of 762 m/2,500 ft and a hugely popular destination. And it is indeed a beautiful scenic view.

There are two lakeside towns, Shuishe village (more touristy) and Ita Thao (home of the Thao aboriginal tribe).

If you wonder what to do here, you can go boating, hiking, cycling and stand-up paddle boarding. However, swimming is not allowed (except at the annual mass swim). As to sights, visit the Wenwu Temple (view from the grounds above it towards the lake is splendid),

walk up to Ci En Pagoda (climb up to the top of it for the view) and go to the Antique Assam Tea Farm (self-guided tour, café & shop).

In case you have two full days in Sun Moon Lake as we had, consider a day trip to the Alishan High Mountain tea fields. Here Taiwan’s most famous tea (Oolong) grows. A good place to spend  a day is the small mountain village of Shizhuo. You can make the most beautiful hikes on the Shizhuo Trails System,

buy tea at the Lin Yuan Tea Factory (oldest tea grower in the area) and make a side trip to another village, Fenqihu (old street).

Hotel: The Lalu Sun Moon Lake

This is yet a former official government guest house of president Chiang Kai-shek. After extensive renovations, it was opened as a luxury hotel in 2002. And this is quite a property! It occupies a peninsula next to the Shuishe village. The hotel spans three buildings that blend harmoniously with the surrounding forested hillside. You have fantastic lake views from almost everywhere at the hotel. It is of a timeless Zen-like design.

All the 96 rooms except some stand-alone villas face the lake

and are exceptionally roomy.

Breakfast is served in the Oriental Brasserie and consists of a huge buffet with a diverse food offer, although it is not so geared towards western tastes. In terms of dining, five restaurants are at your disposal, although some only cater for room guests and member. Find out more about how it is dining at their two flagship dining-spots below.

Restaurants: The Lake View Chinese Restaurant, The Japanese Restaurant (both at The Lala) & KEN CAN by Ken Chan (at Hotel Fleur de Chine)

Both, the Lake View Chinese Restaurant and The Japanese Restaurant, were not as good as I had hoped for. While both offered good food, other aspects were not that satisfying. As far as the Chinese place (à la carte) is concerned, neither the banquet hall-like setting nor the service – we were poorly advised – were persuasive.

However, the Japanese spot (set menu at 3,600 TWD / 101 SFR/US$ with U.S. beef fillet) has an attractive setting (no view). When it comes to service, it was not much better than its Chinese counterpart (not many explanations to the food).

The good news in the Sun Moon Lake area is that there is an excellent gourmet restaurant around at the competitor hotel of Fleur de Chine. It is about KEN CAN by Ken Chan.

It is the second spot of this three-star Michelin chef at Hotel Palais de Chine in Taipei. If you are a foodie and have only one evening in the area, then dine here! We were delighted by the creative Cantonese set menu (3,980 TWD / 112 SFR/US$) as well as the courteous and informative service.

Looking back and ahead on my Taiwan journey

While this post went into a one-week itinerary of a Taiwan trip in style, the next is dedicated to a two-week one. Whereas the former only goes to the island’s north – yet covers the country’s three major highlights – , the second brings you to whole Taiwan. This longer journey has the same stops as the before mentioned Taiwan one-week itinerary plus three more. I started my reporting on this island with some considerations to make when planning a luxury trip to this island (my post). Two more blogposts to follow will highlight my personal highlights in terms of high-end lodging and (Michelin) fine dining restaurants.

Date of stay: April 2024

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The post Taiwan in style, a 1-week road trip itinerary appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

My husband and I have just returned from another bucket list trip – a round trip in Taiwan! You never know how long this is going to be possible – for a very specific reason. But this is not about politics. Rather, it is about seeing the sights. And this was in our case exploring the country in style. This meant for Taiwan that we went for the best luxury hotels and fine (Michelin) dining, yet always with a look at the price tag. It is our premise not to pay excessive prices, wherever we go. When it comes to the question whether Taiwan is worth traveling to, I can say yes without reservation. Not for nothing it was called Ilha Formosa (beautiful island) by its first discoverers, the Portuguese. Yet there are some considerations make when planning a (luxury) Taiwan trip.

The end result of all this pondering is supposed to be the perfect itinerary (one-week/two-week itinerary) for your personal needs. We come to mine at the end of this post. Yet it is just a quick look at it, details about the different stops follow soon on my blog. First, I go into some general facts about Taiwan that may be of interest for travelers. In further posts to follow, you will find out about my personal Taiwan lodging and dining highlights.

About Taiwan

The bits of information on Taiwan I am going to write about are far from being exhaustive. If you should be interested in more and detailed travel advice about this travel destination, I found Nick Kembel’s websites especially helpful. This Canadian – married to a Taiwanese woman and having two kids with her – lived 15 years in Taiwan (meanwhile he has moved with his family to his home town). Nick Kembel is really very thorough in his reporting about his adopted country. I can assure you that hardly a question about Taiwan in the context of travel will be unanswered. His two sites are called Spiritual Travels and Taiwan Obsessed. Whenever I had a question while preparing our Taiwan trip, I Googled “Nick Kembel” together with the issue I was wondering about. And no, I do not know why he has two websites and not one.

1. Geography of Taiwan

Location/Population

Taiwan, officially the Republic of China (ROC), is an island nation in East Asia. There are conflicting views about whether it is a Southeast or Northeast country. It lies in the Pacific Ocean off the southeastern coast of China, from which it is separated by the Taiwan Strait. Other neighbors are Japan in the north and the Philippines in the south. Taiwan is 35,980 km²/13,892 mile² in size, which makes it a bit smaller than Switzerland (41.290 km²/15,942 mile²). It has around 23.9 million inhabitants, which is a lot more than Switzerland has (8.8 million). Therefore, it is one of the more densely populated nations. And most of the Taiwanese live in the island’s west, where one big city follows another.

Climate/Travel time

Taiwan has a subtropical climate and is very mountainous. It boasts almost 300 mountain peaks over 3,000 m (9.800 ft). There is the Central Mountain Range that runs down the middle of the island like a spine. The best times to come here are either in fall (October and November) or in spring (April). This both due to the weather situation as well as the crowds.

Tectonic situation/Earthquakes

The island is geologically active, sitting on the Ring of Fire. Because of the complex tectonic situation, there are lots of hot springs in Taiwan, but also earthquakes. The most recent one with a high death toll was in 1999 (island-wide, 2,415 deaths, 7.7 M_w). And the most recent major earthquake was the one on the 3rd of April 2024 (Hualien, 18 deaths, 7.4 M_w ). And this was precisely, when my husband and I visited Taiwan! It was at 8 a.m. and lasted for more than a minute. At the time, we happened to be on the 25th story of a hotel high-rise in Kaohsiung, where we felt it moderately strong (the building swayed back and forth). Yet one week before, we were at the very spot where most of the deaths happened (Taroko Gorge). And we had stayed at exact the hotel where hundreds of guests were trapped for several days!

2. Political situation in Taiwan

History in brief

Taiwan is considered as the freest and most democratic country in Asia. While The People’s Republic of China (PRC, short China) claims that Taiwan is Chinese territory, The Republic of China (ROC, a.k.a. Taiwan) thinks otherwise. It sees itself as independent. After the ROC lost in the Civil War (1945-49) to the Chinese Communist Party, its leaders and millions of people fled to Taiwan. From there they planned to take back China, what evidently never happened. Notwithstanding that, Taiwan is still officially called the Republic of China.

Before the ROC arrived in Taiwan, the Japanese occupied it (from 1895 to 1945). After Japan surrendered in World War II, Taiwan was restored to the Republic of China. Japan influenced Taiwan significantly. It built a railway around the country, developed the hot springs and constructed lots of buildings. Also the Japanese cuisine left their traces. The UN stopped recognizing the ROC as the legitimate rulers of Taiwan in 1971, the US followed in 1979. Currently, Taiwan is only officially recognized by 11 countries, most of them smaller ones.

Language/Communication

Taiwan has four official languages, Taiwanese, Mandarin, Hakka (Han Chinese) and the Formosan aboriginal languages (collectively). Although English is not an official language, there is a discussion about Taiwan becoming a “Chinese-English bilingual country” by 2030. Yet, many Taiwanese doubt that this will become true. Most Taiwanese in the major cities know at least some English. The further you go from the metropolitan areas, the less it is spoken. Yet, Taiwanese are open and friendly, and there is always the option to use Google Translate in order to communicate with them.

3. How to get around in Taiwan

Taipei: MRT/Uber

Getting around in Taipei is a breeze thanks to the MRT system. For doing so, you buy and load an EasyCard in any station or convenience store. You can also catch an Uber driver for short distances, as there are many available in Taipei and other big cities. Yet, you also find them in other touristy places in the countryside. We used this service for example in the Sun Moon Lake area when dining out.

Train/Buses

Taiwan’s train system is generally considered modern and convenient enough, although not comparable to the one in Japan. There are far more options to go up and down the island than across. This is because of the Central Mountain Range that divides the island into a western and eastern part. If you plan to travel all over the country, you have to use a mix of train, high-speed rail and bus.

As already mentioned, the Japanese built a railway around the country, which is still running today. It is administered by the TRA (Taiwan Railway Administration). From Taipei to Kaohsiung and all the cities between, you have the additional choice of the High Speed Rail (HSR). It is much faster (and more expensive) than the TRA. However, besides Taipei, their stations are inconveniently located outside of the city center. And it only exists on the island’s west side. For destinations in the Central Mountain Range, i.e. Alishan or Sun Moon Lake, you need to take buses to reach them.

Rental car

As my husband and I traveled all over Taiwan, we had opted for renting a car and driving ourselves. While driving in Taipei is no walk in the park, it is doable in other places. Generally in big cities, you have to be careful because of the many scooters (they have sometimes their own lanes and their own way to turning left at major intersections). If you are driving in the mountains, there are many winding and narrow roads. However, they are well secured with mirrors that show oncoming traffic.

After these more basic facts about Taiwan, now to possible itineraries in Taiwan.

Taiwan 1- to 2-week itineraries

General itinerary considerations when planning a Taiwan trip

As it is a 15-hour flight from Western Europe to Taiwan, it makes sense to spend 14 days here. This if you have a single destination trip in mind. And no worries, Taiwan has so much to do that you can easily spend two weeks here. Alternatively, you can combine a one-week stay on this island with a stopover, depending on your flight arrangements. In our case, we flew via Bangkok/Thailand on the flight to Taiwan and via Hong Kong on our return, although we did not do any layovers. Another option would be adding a short flight from Taiwan to your itinerary. Obvious choices would be Japan, especially Okinawa, or the Philippines. This might be a good idea in particular if you are keen on beach vacations. Taiwan is not really famous for being a destination geared to sun, sand and sea.

Having said that, I would like to emphasize again that there is plenty to see in Taiwan. So, there is absolutely no need to limit your time on this island to only one week! Taiwan is an extremely pleasant travel destination. While it is not exactly inexpensive, it is affordable enough. Public transport is good, and people are amicable. There is a stable political situation (apart from the danger coming from the powerful neighbor across the Taiwan Strait). And you find here a generally high level of safety. Plus, you will not run into Western tourists all the time. Last but not least, it offers the perfect mix of vibrant urban life and lots of natural beauty. The latter you even encounter very close to Taipei.

A 2-week itinerary in general

Two weeks is considered a reasonable amount of time to do a full circle around Taiwan. And this is – I mentioned it before – possible by train. When having this round trip in mind, you have two options: doing it nature-focused or city/culture-focused. As to the former, you spend more time on the island’s east and south. Concerning the latter, you stay longer on Taiwan’s west side. In case you decide on a nature focus you also should head to the mountains, which are in the center stretching from north to south. As there are only some regional trail lines in this area, you also must use buses to get there.

This reveals that opting for the train as your means of transport is ideal for a city/culture focus. It is less so if you want to concentrate on nature. Here it makes sense to consider traveling by rental car. If you do not trust yourself to do this, then there is the possibility to hire a private driver and maybe also a private tour guide (check out Nick Kembel’s advice on this).

If you want to do a luxury trip – meaning staying in luxury hotels and dining in gourmet (Michelin) restaurants – , this complicates the affair even more. While there is usually no problem finding correspondent establishments on Taiwan’s west side, this is not so on the east side. One exception here is the Taroko Gorge. But if you travel from here toward the south in the direction of Taitung, you will encounter difficulties finding suitable lodging and dining. As far as the island’s center is concerned, places to stay and dine in style apart from the Sun Moon Lake area are rare.

Our 17-day itinerary in style

After all these general considerations when making a travel plan for a Taiwan trip, now to our actual itinerary. While we were on route during 17 days, you can shorten the trip to two weeks without any problems. We wanted our journey to be predominantly nature-focused yet with the one or other urban stay. As we like to travel in style, our aim was staying in luxury hotels (my 3 hotel highlights) and dining in gourmet (Michelin) restaurants. And this is not always possible in Taiwan, as outlined. In terms of means of transport, we had opted for a rental car. This because it seemed more convenient to reach all the places we wanted to go.

So, we began in Taipei before heading to the Taroko Gorge in the northeast close to Hualien. We also made a day trip along the east coast going a bit further south from this seaside town. Then we went to the country’s center, to Sun Moon Lake. From here, we explored the wider Alishan region in another day trip too. After that, we drove in the south, the Kenting National Park, before heading back north. This time we traveled along the west coast. Our only stop here was in Kaohsiung, from where we also visited the old city of Tainan. Our last stop was Taipei again, where we had chosen its northernmost district of Beitou as our base. We used it to discover Taiwan’s north as well.

Find here my Google Map of our 17-day road trip journey in Taiwan:

A proposition for a 1-week Taiwan itinerary

There is also the option to make this trip shorter, from two weeks to one. And you can do this by traveling only the northern part of Taiwan. In such a way, you can experience the country’s three major highlights. These are Taipei, Taroko Gorge and Sun Moon Lake. My next post will be about this abbreviated Taiwan itinerary. In addition, you will learn more about the three individual stops. This includes what to see and do, a top hotel on site and some of the best (Michelin) fine dining available.

In another post to follow, I will go into the two-week itinerary. There will be information about the other three stops that are not part of the abbreviated Taiwan travel plan. These especially concern Taiwan’s south, but also a second Taipei stay. This is not the end about my Taiwan reporting yet. Two more blogposts will offer more details about my personal highlights with respect to accommodation and eating out.

Date of stay: April 2024

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The post Some considerations when planning a (luxury) Taiwan trip first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Some considerations when planning a (luxury)Taiwan trip appeared first on Swiss Traveler.