Is Bhutan on your bucket list for your next vacations? Then I have not only lots of travel information about the Land of the Thunder Dragon for you (see next section), but also suggestions where to go for a pre- or post-Bhutan stay in style. Doing so is for all those a necessity who come from a distant country of origin. When my husband and I went to Bhutan recently, we flew via Bangkok. Thus, we opted for staying in Bangkok before flying to our final destination. On our return to Bangkok, we drove on to Hua Hin, a seaside resort south of the capital, for a few quiet days on the beach.

After a short look at my Bhutan mini series, you will find more details from which cities you can get to Bhutan (Bangkok is not the only option). Plus, there will be some advice where to stay at great luxury hotels in those places. Then I come to the actual topic, my pre- and post-Bhutan stays in Thailand.

My mini series about Bhutan

As announced, there is more content on my blog about visiting Bhutan. I started with a travel guide, continued with a perfect 9-day itinerary and informed about touring the country by arrangements of the three luxury hotel brands operating here. As we had opted for COMO as a provider – alternatives are Aman or Six Senses – , you learn in a further post how it was. And just now, I am setting the end point of my Bhutan mini-series, detailing opportunities for ideal pre and post travel plans.

From where to fly to Bhutan?

As mentioned above, you can fly to Bhutan via Thailand. When my husband and I did this at the beginning of April, there were no direct flights from Bangkok. Instead, the plane made a short stop in Dhaka/Bangladesh – where you could stay on board. At the time, you could only fly to Bhutan once a day, and this starting at 5 am and landing in Paro/Bhutan at 08.30 am. The flight was carried out by Drukair, one of two airlines flying to the Land of the Thunder Dragon.

Alternatively, you may fly into Paro from India. When doing so, you may choose between Delhi, Kolkata, Guwahati and Bagdogra. As I can safely assume that the first one is your best choice as a Westerner, here are suggestions as to where to stay in Delhi. And when you are in the area, do not miss a side trip to Agra/Taj Mahal. This is such a worthwhile thing to do!

Another option is it to fly via Singapore. Here is advice which hotel to choose here as a discerning traveler. Finally, you may fly to Bhutan via Kathmandu/Nepal (where I have not been to).

Pre- & post-Bhutan stays in Thailand

As my husband and I have never visited Thailand before, we appreciated the chance to get to know this destination a bit more. We settled for three nights in Bangkok and four nights in Hua Hin, a beach town in Bangkok’s south. While this may sound of quite long stays for stopovers, it actually was not. This because of two reasons. First, we had to leave our hotel in Bangkok at 2 am in the morning of our third night to catch our flight to Bhutan. Second, after returning to Bangkok from Bhutan, we only arrived at our hotel in Hua Hin at 9 pm.

While Bangkok was given as pre-Bhutan stay from the outset,

we thought longer about our post-Bhutan one. We contemplated flying to Kos Samui (flight time 1 h 05 min) or Phuket (flight time 1 h 20 min), Thailand’s most popular vacation destinations. Yet, we were daunted by the thought of more flights. As to upscale beach towns not too far away from Bangkok, there is not much around. Pattaya Beach, the city of sins (2 h by car), was not really an option for us. So, we decided to give Hua Hin (3-4 h by car) a try.

A pre-Bhutan stay in Bangkok

We had heard much about Bangkok, the good and the not so good. Yet, we were positively surprised about its vibe. Of course, it is a modern city nowadays, with lots of skyscrapers and traffic. Yet, if you search hard enough, you find some glimpses of the “old” Bangkok too. While traffic is bad at many times, the drivers are usually well behaved. And yes, at the beginning of April, we had already missed the best travel time for Bangkok (November to February).

When it comes to staying in style in Bangkok, there is an immense number of options. I have not really looked into it as our hotel was fixed from the beginning. Only so much, if I were free to choose I would opt for a luxury hotel by the river

not far away from the Grand Palace and Wat Arun (maybe Mandarin Oriental, Four Seasons or Capella). In our case, we made use of a special combination offer by COMO Hotels and Resorts (our choice for Bhutan lodging). Actually, we had two nights free at their Bangkok branch, COMO Metropolitan. And here is how it was.

Hotel COMO Metropolitan Bangkok

As I outlined above, booking COMO Bhutan for your touring the Land of the Thunder Dragon comes along with special rates at COMO Metropolitan Bangkok (just send COMO Buthan an email). My husband and I happily took the occasion as we had liked our stays at other COMO branches (London, Miami).

COMO Metropolitan Bangkok was built in 2003 and last renovated in 2016. It is a modern high-rise building with 11 floors featuring 169 rooms.

Location

While I rate its location in the central business district of Sathorn as good, I personally think it is better to stay near the Chao Phraya river. This allows you not only to see river life close up but also brings you in proximity to ferries. And traveling on the water is often faster and more relaxing than by other means of transport in this city plagued by traffic. And the latter is especially bad on Sathon Road, where the COMO hotel is located. That said, it is situated in a quiet side street where you are not exposed to noise.

Whereas you need about 40 minutes to reach the river by foot, you are only ten minutes away from the nearest metro station (MRT, Blue Line, Lumphini). Plus, there are numerous great restaurants nearby. And one of the best rooftop bars in town, the Moon Bar at Banyan Tree Hotel, is just round the corner.

Rooms/Pricing at COMO Metropolitan Bangkok

You find quite a wide range of room categories at COMO Metropolitan Bangkok: City Room (26-39 sqm, from 123 US$), Studio Room (43 sqm, from 138 US$), Metropolitan Room (51-54 sqm, from 146 US$), Terrace Room (80 sqm, from 174 US$). Plus, there are three different kind of suites. Price wise, you get away inexpensively. This is especially true compared to luxury front river hotels just as the three I mentioned above. These will easily cost you double or triple.

As mentioned, we spent three nights here, at a discounted rate. And we had a Metropolitan Room Twin.

Metropolitan Room

Our room was on the highest floor with a beautiful view of the central business district of Sathorn.

As to its style, it is sleek with clean lines and neutral colors. While it is predominantly kept in a western style, you also find the one or other eastern accent.

The bathroom is spacious, with the same view as the bedroom. There is a large open shower and a separate tub, all in limestone.

Unfortunately, there is only one, rather small sink, although you could have made two of them without difficulties (enough space).

My husband and I felt at ease here as the room was generously sized and offered lots of natural light from the floor-to-ceiling windows.

Ambiance/Staff at COMO Metropolitan Bangkok

There is an atmosphere of calm and pleasant minimalism throughout the property. As to the rooms, you clearly notice a western vibe yet discreetly paired with eastern touches.

Staff at the reception and the doormen were friendly, helpful and attentive. When it comes to the restaurant (Nahm, modern Thai), I have mixed feelings. As to breakfast, we had no issues.

Dinner was a bit different. While everyone around us got one dish after the other, we had to wait one hour for our amuse bouche. When we inquired about the delay, we got an unsatisfactory response from the waiter. Once the dinner (tasting menu) finally took off, there was an ongoing coming of plates (many at the same time). And the last one was served in less than an hour from the starting time! This is not what a tasting menu is supposed to be! On the positive side, food was good.

Plus, at one time, a friendly female maître d’ came by the table to chat to us.

Facilities/Restaurants 

On site you find a wellness center, the largest of all COMO city hotels. It comes with ten treatment rooms, a 25 m/82 ft outdoor lap pool, a fitness room, a yoga studio, steam rooms and hydro pools.

As to dining at COMO Metropolitan Bangkok, I already mentioned their one and only restaurant Nahm. You get here a modern take on traditional Thai fare. I will go into this Michelin one-star restaurant in more details in a separate post to come about fine dining restaurants in Bangkoks’s Sathorn district.

A post-Bhutan stay in Hua Hin/Thailand

Before singling out Hua Hin as our destination for a relaxing time on the beach after our Bhutan journey (see above), I have never heard about this place. As I learned later, the rather provincial town of Hua Hin has become a popular getaway for both locals and tourists. And this not least to its easy accessibility from Bangkok.

What once began as a quiet fishing village, turned into a summer retreat for Thai royalty in the early 20th century and later also drew Bangkok’s nobility. Nowadays, lots of upscale second homes line the beach front.

As to the latter, it does not earn a prize for being one of the most beautiful ones in Thailand, yet it is not too bad either. The most known is Hua Hin Beach, which stretches for about 5 kilometers (3 miles). It is nice for a long walk, although, in certain parts, much of the beach disappears during high tide.

Aside from being a beach resort, Hua Hin is known for its night markets, numerous golf courses and wellness offers. If you want to do some sightseeing, I would not qualify it as super ideal for this purpose.

As to staying in style, there are some places that fall in this category. Yet, you are not really spoiled for choice here. Now to where my husband and I resided during our four-night stay, and this was at The Barai.

Hotel The Barai Hua Hin/Thailand

While The Barai was opened as standalone luxury hotel and spa in 2007 by Hyatt Hotels, it became affiliated with the adjoining Hyatt Regency Hua Hin Resort in 2012. It is very boutique, with eight suites only.

Location

The Barai is situated about 4 km/2.5 mi south of downtown Hua Hin. I would not encourage you to walk to the town center as the way leads along the busy, nondescript main road. However, you might think about doing so along the beach, for which you need about an hour.

By car, you reach downtown in about ten minutes, but only if traffic is light. This may not be the case on evenings and weekends.

As to other attractions nearby, there are two night markets, open from Friday to Sunday. On the one hand, there is the Cicada Market for predominantely non-food products like art, jewelry, clothing and handcrafted things. On the other hand, you find here the Tamarind Market for foods.

Rooms/Pricing at The Barai Hua Hin

There are eight suites in four two-storey villas.

In case you opt for downstairs (The Barai Pool Suite) as my husband and I did, you are in for a verandah,

plunge pool and garden.

If you go for upstairs (The Barai Balcony Suite), you have a balcony (5 sqm) with sea view.

Both have in common 101 to 144 sqm of space, an oversized king bed (3 m/10 ft wide!),

an entry hall with daybeds, a dining area as well as separate coffee and tea stations,

a huge bathtub with two oversized daybeds,

two individual walk-in closets with bathroom for him and her and a sizable shower (with steam function).

Included in the room rate are a butler service, a daily 60-minute massage treatment for two, an in-suite aromatherapy steam and milk bath (prepared by your butler), laundry service for two items per day, as well as full breakfast, all-day beverages, pre-dinner drinks and snacks (all served at Restaurant McFarland House).

The total package is really impressive! The Barai Pool Suite (101 – 124 sqm) is available from 541 US$, The Barai Balcony Suite (144 sqm) from 495 US$. Another accommodation is also part of the The Barai, the Presidential Pool Villa. It is suitable for a maximum of six adults and comes with a private pool, garden and beach as well as kitchenette, study room and dining table for eight persons (434 sqm, rate upon request).

Ambiance/Staff

As a guest at The Barai, you have to check-in and check-out at the “regular” Hyatt Regency, all the rest is separate. On the hotel’s premises, you also find a restaurant (McFarland House, see below), which is – of course – open to the public. It is the place where you have breakfast when staying at The Barai. Those from other parts of the Hyatt premises may also do so if they wish, but not within a bed and breakfast package. On our four breakfasts, there were never many other people around. It always felt quiet, as it was the case throughout The Barai property. It really had an exclusive feel!

What stood out at The Barai was the excellent butler service. Their staff already got it touch before our stay to arrange bookings for the included daily massage. After check-in at the main reception, a butler picked us up and gave us all the necessary information on the hotel. Every morning, someone from them checked on us during breakfast. When our daily massage came up, one of the team appeared to accompany us to the spa. They also reconfirmed our dinner reservations, organized transport to the restaurants and picked us up to bring us to our car driver.

As to the other staff, the one at the McFarland House was friendly enough. At the spa, we only had contact with the masseuses, who were immaculate (the administrative part at the reception was done by our butler).

Bottom line, it was a very pleasant stay in beautiful and serene surroundings, being pampered all day long!

Facilities/Restaurants

As I already mentioned here at several occasions, the spa plays an important role at The Barai. The name goes back to barays, large reservoirs created by the Khmers for use of their daily life. They were considered as life-determining, yet also a source of their spiritual wellbeing. Here at The Barai, these barays are remembered, both in the construction of the spa

and the tranquility court, a 30 m-/100 ft-long unique swimming channel in a court.

As to the spa treatments, they marry traditional Thai rituals and innovative western therapies. 18 single and double treatment rooms are on offer here at this maze-like red building, where the light is caught to reflect the elements of earth, water, air and fire. All the massages we experienced here were expertly executed, enhanced by the building’s special architecture.

The restaurant on the premises, McFarland House, was already a topic in other sections of my post. It is a two-story pavilion on the beach front, dating back to the 19th century.

It was home of Dr George Mc Farland, a man of many merits for Thailand. Parts of his original house were incorporated in the new building. It is a casual all-day dining venue. On the menu you find modern comfort food plus some healthy options. My husband and I only had breakfast here, which was enjoyable. We especially liked the Energy Bowl, the freshly pressed juices and the inventive egg dishes.

It goes without saying that you can also make use of the facilities and restaurants at the other Hyatt hotels onsite. Yet, we did not see the need to do so as we had with The Barai the perfect sanctum of serenity at our disposal. That said, we ventured to town to have dinner. A future post will go into three fine dining spots we visited.

Looking back and forward on my blog

This was the last of five posts on my Bhutan travel reporting, which went into following topics: travel guide, 9-day itinerary, travel plans of luxury Bhutan hotel brands, COMO Bhutan journey and pre-/post-Bhutan stays.

As announced, there will be some more information about Thailand. As my husband and I are serious foodies, we made sure that we enjoyed ourselves in this respect in Siam too. Find more about our culinary Bangkok and Hua Hin adventures soon on my blog.

Date of visit: April 2023

Pin it for later

The post Where to go for a pre- or post-Bhutan stay first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Where to go for a pre- or post-Bhutan stay appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

After giving an overview on the three luxury hotel brands with multiple locations in Bhutan, now to one of them. It is about Hotel COMO Bhutan, the choice of my husband and myself for our recent stay in the Land of the Thunder Dragon. It consists of two hotels, which are part of a family-owned group of hotels and resorts worldwide. In the following, you will learn how it is traveling the Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan on a journey arranged by COMO. In this post, the focus will be on the properties, the hotel life and the organization of the trip. As to the itinerary, I already went into this topic earlier on my blog (a perfect 9-day Bhutan itinerary).

Before delving into the COMO Bhutan properties plus another affiliated one, first to two other things. First, a look at my mini series about Bhutan. Second, a short introduction into the luxury hotel brand of COMO Hotels and Resorts.

My mini series about Bhutan travel

This very post is the fourth in my mini series about traveling Bhutan, the mystic land in the Himalayas. The first was a travel guide, followed by the above mentioned itinerary and the overview on luxury hotel brands operating in the field of multi-destination journeys. Next on my blog, opportunities for a pre- or post-Bhutan trip will set an end point to my Bhutan mini series.

Backstory of COMO Hotels & Resorts

COMO Hotels and Resorts is a Singapore-based company with a portfolio of 16 properties worldwide to date. It was founded in 1991 by Christina Ong, born out of a simple need. She sought an intimate hotel in London, which was stylish yet also intuitive and discreet. At the same time, it should have a sense of place, but also with a distinct and personal character. Furthermore, she wanted this hotel to have a restaurant with healthy and high-quality food. So, she brought COMO The Halkin on a quiet street in Belgravia to life.

This was also the first property of this luxury hotel group where my husband and I stayed at. And this already on two occasions (my post). We also spent some time at their hotel in Miami Beach.

Furthermore, we already had booked a stay at COMO The Treasury in Perth/Australia before we had to cancel it because of the COVID-19 pandemic. And we also know COMO Metropolitan Bangkok, where we resided prior to our Bhutan visit (more follows soon on my blog).

While all the 16 COMO Hotels and Resorts share the same values, they honor their respective location. Their portfolio consists of island resorts, hotels in urban heritage buildings and two boutique brands, COMO Metropolitan and COMO Uma. As to the Metropolitan properties, I already mentioned the one in Bangkok. There is one city hotel more, and this in London. With regard to the Uma brand, it is about small resorts with adventurous locations. Bhutan has two of them, in Bali there are two more.

COMO Hotels and Resorts Bhutan

In contrast to its competitors of Aman and Six Senses (see my comparison), COMO limits itself on two properties only. One is in the Paro Valley near the country’s only international airport, the other in Punakha Valley.

When my husband and I booked our Bhutan journey about four years ago (initially for April 2020, finally postponed to April 2023), Hotel COMO Bhutan partnered up with a hotel in a third valley, the Gangtey respectively the Phobjikha Valley, at the time. Nowadays, this option is no longer listed on their homepage. Instead, they offer as third accommodation a stay at a fully serviced overnight camp.

Now to what to expect when staying at following three hotels: COMO Uma Paro, COMO Uma Punakha and Gangtey Lodge. For our Bhutan travel plan, check out my perfect 9-day-itinerary in a separate post. Regarding tour organization (journey with a private guide), there will be more information under point “4. COMO Bhutan private tour organization”.

1. COMO Uma Paro

Location

This is the COMO property first opened in Bhutan, and this back in 2004. It nestles on a hillside, among a pine tree forest, with a fabulous view of Paro Valley. You can reach it in only ten minutes from the airport, the last bit is on a rough road through the forest.

Rooms/Pricing at COMO Paro

29 rooms are available, including nine villas. As to the rooms, you can make your choice out of three categories: Forest View Room (25 sqm, from 530 US$), Valley View Room (32 sqm, from 675 US$) and COMO Suite (95 sqm, from 915 US$). In terms of villas, you may opt either for the One-Bedroom Villa (92 sqm, from 1,100 US$) or the COMO Villa (300 sqm, from 1,850 US$). Dinner is included in the prices mentioned.

My husband and I spent four nights here, two to start our COMO “journey”, two to end it. The first time, we stayed at Valley View Room, the second time – we were granted an upgrade because we had been holding our reservation for three years, paid in advance – at a One-Bedroom Villa. Here are the details.

Valley View Room

While this room is not exactly spacious, it is practically furnished, and this in a traditional Buthanese style. There is a small balcony from which you have a great view of the Paro Valley.

Artisan-crafted woodwork and hand-painted walls add to the rustic character of the guest quarter.

The bathroom is not large yet features a tub and a separate shower.

All in all, you find here everything you need as a demanding guest, but you definitely cannot call it super luxurious. And it is a bit on the cramped side.

One-Bedroom Villa

Too little space is for sure no problem at the generous One-Bedroom Villa. Ours even had a second bedroom (king bed) with its own bathroom.

All the villas are situated in the pine forest, at a good distance from each other. That comes along with no view of Paro Town or the Valley. However, you enjoy here lots of privacy.

Apart from the sizable bedroom

there is a living room appointed with a dining table and a Buthanese Bukhari (fireplace).

Adjacent to it, is a small kitchen with a second (butler) entry. The One-Bedroom Villa has yet another room, where treatments can take place (we did not have this one, but as mentioned a second bedroom).

The bathroom is huge, coming with double sinks, a free-standing tub, a closet, a separate shower and toilet plus a comfortable seating area.

And there is a large outdoor area, the so-called verandah. As to the decor, it it similar to the above mentioned Valley View Room. An additional feature are the hand-knotted rugs from Nepal. Residing at a One-Bedroom Villa also has the benefit of a personal butler service.

Ambiance/Staff at COMO Paro

On our first stay, there was lot going on at the hotel because we happened to be here during the Paro Festival. Staff was friendly yet sometimes a bit stressed. Instead of an à la carte service at the restaurant there was a buffet to help yourself from it.

When we returned on the end of our Bhutan trip, there was “courant normal”. It was a less hectic atmosphere yet there was not really a contemplative mood. Probably, the hotel is not small enough to provide a calmer state as it is the case at the sister hotel in Punakha. While service was hospitable and polite, it was sometimes a bit on the impersonal side, especially at the reception desk.

The General Manager (for both COMO hotels) showed presence on both our stays. He is clearly dedicated to his job yet has a bit of a didactic nature and seems always to be very busy.

The last evening we spent here, was not overly pleasant. When we arrived for dinner, only one of the Bukharis (Buthanese fireplaces) in the public spaces was lit. So, it was quite cold not only at the restaurant, but also at the bar and in the lobby area. As a consequence, we had to settle near the reception – by the only lighted fireplace – to have an after dinner drink.

Facilities/Restaurants

COMO Uma Paro is the hotel group’s flagship lodge in Bhutan. The main building used to be the home of a Buthanese nobleman, and it really is quite a sight. Onsite you find two courtyards, an upper and lower one, an indoor pool,

a Shambala Retreat (spa), a fitness room,

a yoga studio, meadows, woodlands, a plant garden and an archery ground.

As to dining, there is the Bukhari Restaurant inside a round building, which also seems to be a favorite of the king.

They serve Western, Indian and Buthanese dishes here, made from organic and locally sourced produce. And we usually liked what we got, opting almost always for Asian food.

Maybe it was sometimes not spicy enough. But we often felt at hotel restaurants in Bhutan that they play it safe when it comes to this. You have to know in this context that Buthanese people like their food very spicy. So, I think they “tone it down” sometimes a bit too much, at least for our taste. And one more thing, the hot dishes on the buffet service (only during Paro Festival) were consistently not hot enough!

In case you care for small bites, you can also have them at the Uma Bar. Here you get all-day dining, and you can also book the premises for private gatherings.

2. COMO Uma Punakha

Location

This is the second and last COMO property in Bhutan to date. It was opened in 2012, yet apparently it was originally meant to do so in 2004, together with its sister hotel in 2004. From what I heard, the worldwide financial crisis of 2008 impeded this.

The hotel is set in a terraced hillside at the western end of the Punakha Valley, a lush, subtropical vale. From here, you overlook a bend in the Mo Chhu (Female) river. COMO Punakha is pretty remote, which is a major part of its charm. You reach it from Paro in a four- to five-hour drive.

Rooms/Pricing at COMO Punakha

It is an intimate place, with elven rooms only. There are eight rooms and two villas.

There is only one accommodation category, the Valley View Room (27 to 34 sqm, from 675 US$). As to the villas, there is a smaller (51 sqm, price to be inquired) and a larger (90 sqm, price to be inquired). The rates include the dinner.

My husband and I spent two nights here. It was the second stop of our COMO “journey”. And we had a Valley View Room.

Valley View Room

While there is only one room category, the accommodations slightly differ depending whether they are on the ground floor or one below. The former have large French windows – which can only partly opened – , the latter a balcony. The rooms on the ground floor benefit of a wider view, also to be enjoyed from the shower.

Some of their counterparts one floor down may do so from the tub.

I liked the room better than the one at Paro (of the same category). This because it feels airier and has a lounge area from which you can take in the fabulous views of terraced fields and river. As to its furnishings, it is similar to the one at its sister property, although of more recent date. The room shares the same somewhat minimalist style yet it feels cozy after all.

Ambiance/Staff

I preferred the ambiance at COMO Punakha over the one at Punakha. It was much more serene and calm than the rather busy one at the sister hotel. Right when stepping through the entrance gate, you could feel it. It seems like the quiet of the surrounding nature casts a spell upon everyone, the guests yet also the staff.

As to the latter, service was immaculate throughout our stay. Often when returning from an excursion, one staff member magically shows up bringing along your room key right to the entrance! Yet everywhere on the premises it made the impression that they could read every wish from your eyes. The praise includes the resident manager, a lovely Thai lady, who regularly enquired how we were doing.

Facilities/Restaurants at COMO Punakha

The hotel is not as well equipped as its sister property in Paro. For example, it does not feature a pool. This not only in contrast to COMO Paro, but also to the other luxury players on site. Although, you find here a COMO Shambala Retreat (spa). Here it is highly recommended to have a Buthanese traditional hot stone bath.

The restaurant goes under the same name as the one in Paro, Restaurant Bukhari. Apart from a dining room there is also a nice outdoor area. The same is true for the adjoining bar/lobby.

As to the culinary aspect, the offerings are similar to those at its sister hotel in Paro, yet I found the cuisine here a tad better.

I especially was more in favor of the breakfast you get in Punakha. There is no buffet, everything is served. The daily baked pastries, the lassis of the day or the hot item options just as the ricotta French toast were just great!

3. Gangtey Lodge Gangtey/Phobjikha Valley

The Gangtey Lodge in the Gangtey respectively Phobjikha Valley is not part of COMO Hotels and Resorts. Yet when we booked our Hotel COMO Bhutan “journey” (see concept/itinerary), there was some sort of collaboration.

It actually is one of the few independent boutique lodges in Bhutan, established in 2013 by owners Khin Omar Win and Brett Melzer.

Location

When approaching, it does not become clear at first sight that a hotel awaits you here. This because the Gangtey Lodge is designed in harmony with the local village and the 17th-century monastery, which are both just a short walk away. The building looks like a traditional farmhouse, albeit a grand one.

You are here at the beautiful Gangtey or Phobjikha Valley, as it is known formally. It is about a wide glacial vale full of meadows and farmland, bounded by the Black Mountains. The remote area can be reached from Punakha in a three- to four-hour drive or directly from Paro in four- to five-hour drive.

Rooms/Pricing at Gangtey Lodge

There is only one room category, the Farmhouse Suite (46 sqm). And you find only 12 of them here.  Just as at COMO Punakha, you are in here for an intimate ambiance. In terms of rates, they start at 660 US$ (half board) respectively 720 US$ (full board).

Farmhouse Suite

This was definitely the most beautiful (and largest) room of our Bhutan trip, featuring a large lounging area, fireplace and freestanding tub. It is kept in a Buthanese style, coming with dark nature tones and cozy fabrics.

And the views are commanding, from the valley over to the village and the monastery. Plus, the room has underfloor heating, and the bathroom is spacious.

Our room was on the lower of two floors in the house north of the main building. For best vista, I would recommend an accommodation on the upper floor at the other guest quarters, nearer to the Gangtey village and monastery.

While I was very much in favor of our room’s look, I was not overly satisfied with some practical aspects. Among other things, you could not open the windows properly as the tub in front of it hinders doing so.

Ambiance/Staff

It is an extremely hospitable hotel. Upon arrival, the general manager, Anja Zok, a nice Polish lady, welcomed us at the entrance. She gave us a present, a traditional ceremonial scarf, and accompanied us to the main lodge. Here staff greeted us with a song, a welcome drink and a shoulder massage. I could not imagine a much better start!

Also what followed, was persuasive. Staff tried their best to make us welcome on every occasion. When coming back from a hike, they offered to clean our hiking boots. Or they asked after dinner whether they should light a fire at our room’s fireplace. And Chef Soh, the long time cook here, went to great lengths to stand by my side because of digestion problems I had at the time. Kudos to the team!

Facilities/Restaurants at Gangtey Lodge

There is a double-height lobby/lounge/dining room with big picture windows

allowing a stunning view of valley,

village and monastery.

Here you also find two big inside/outside stone fireplaces, which makes the terrace usable year-round.

This central meeting point is open from early in the morning until late in the evening. You may show up here whenever you feel like it, for just sitting here by the fire or for meals.

There is a bath house where you can try out a hot stone bath, an ancient Buthanese bathing ritual. Or you can choose from a number of massages. You also find an archery ground on the premises. In addition, there is an array of options to immerse more in the environment, be it in the areas of nature, spiritual, dining and culture.

As to dining, I already informed you about the location and the chef, now it is about the food. You eat here well. For dinner you can either order the “Southeast Asian Set” or choose from an à la carte menu with western and Asian dishes. As to breakfast, you can help yourself from a small assortment of continental breakfast items on a table. Plus, there is a limited à la carte menu to choose from (no sweet options).

4. COMO Bhutan private tour organization

After outlining already several times in my Bhutan reporting about traveling this country via a private guided tour by one of three luxury hotel brands (my post), now to some details how it is doing so with COMO Hotels and Resorts. For the itinerary we chose, check out my corresponding post.

The Hotel COMO Bhutan tours usually include accommodation (full board), a private guide and driver for transport and excursions, all fees and one massage. In addition, this provider can also handle the necessary Bhutan visa and flights via Druk Air or Bhutan Airlines on their customers’ behalf. So, it is actually an “all inclusive” arrangement.

If you should not find your desired itinerary on the COMO Bhutan website, you can also get in touch with them to plan a tailor-made journey.

Our COMO Buthan private guided tour

On our 9-night-itinerary, Kuenzang (guide) and Damchoe (driver) were assigned to us.

While the former is permanently employed by Hotel COMO Bhutan, the latter is a free-lancer. We were told that there are no fixed guide-driver teams at this provider. Instead, they constantly make new pairings. As to the one we got, we could not have been more happy!

While our travel plan was set, there was still room for changes to be made. My husband and I, for example, asked for walking the area whenever possible or not to start too early in the morning, if not necessary. And Kuenzang happily complied with our wishes.

As to his way of touring, he is an easygoing, humorous person yet also showed seriousness when indicated. Of course, he has a wide knowledge as to Bhutan, but he shared it with us on a bit-by-bit basis without overwhelming us. He always was super friendly, helpful and considerate. We would not have wanted anybody else to show us around in Bhutan! And his grasp of English is excellent.

As to our driver, Damchoe, he is nice person too. Whereas he rather stayed in the background, he chatted with us occasionally (never while driving), and was always gracious. And the most important thing of all, he turned out to be an excellent driver!

Postscript to our guide Kuenzang: guiding besides COMO Bhutan

Kuenzang Tobgay offers his services as a tour guide also as a free-lancer. And he is able to put together tours for visitors looking for good hotels without wanting to spend a fortune too! If you should be interested in exploring Bhutan with him – highly recommended – , contact him on Instagram or Facebook.

Looking back and forward on my blog

My Bhutan mini series started with a travel guide, followed by a perfect 9-day itinerary and an overview of travel plans offered by the three players in the country’s luxury hotel segment. And the current post focuses on how it is traveling the Land of the Thunder Dragon with COMO Hotels and Resorts. Next on my blog, I will go into possible pre- and post-Bhutan stays. This because it is usually not possible to directly fly into Druk Yul from more distant destinations.

Date of visit: April 2023

Pin it for later

The post Traveling Bhutan with a private guided tour by COMO luxury hotels first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Traveling Bhutan with a private guided tour by COMO luxury hotels appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

If you think about traveling Bhutan in style, you might have come across the one or other luxury hotel brand that offers private guided tours in this country. The most known name in this context is probably Aman Bhutan, yet also Six Senses Bhutan might have caught your attention. There is one more, COMO Bhutan, which my husband and I chose for exploring this fascinating Himalayan kingdom. Originally, our trip should have taken place in spring 2020 yet we had to postpone it until spring 2023 – because of the COVID-19 pandemic. Find in the following an overview how the three big players in Bhutan’s luxury travel segment compare to each other, also price wise.

Before delving into the topic, a quick look at the blogposts that I have already done about Bhutan and what still follows in this respect.

My mini-series about Bhutan travel

A travel guide made the start, followed by the perfect 9-day-itinerary in Buthan’s west, the country’s heartland. This very post shall be about what the three luxury hotel brand of Aman, Six Senses and COMO Pura have in store for discerning travelers who plan to travel The Land of the Thunder dragon. Then I will of course inform about how our journey with our choice of hotel (COMO) was. And finally in a post to come, there will be information about possible pre- and post-Bhutan stays as it is usually not possible to fly in directly from a more distant country.

Bhutan travel in general

Already before the Covid-19 pandemic, Bhutan had a reputation of being an expensive travel destination. Its motto always was “high value, low impact”, and this meant great benefits for travelers but also high revenues from tourism without causing too much damage by it.

While this certainly is a good stance in view of the overtourism in many popular places, it did not stop there. When the country reopened to tourism in September 2022 after the pandemic, a major overhaul of its already strict tourism regulation came into effect. For details, refer to my travel guide. In short, foreign travelers are now charged a 200 US$ fee per person per day for sustainable development (SDF)!

It goes without saying that this pricing makes a trip to Druk Yul unaffordable for most travelers. And this might be true for many well-heeled ones too. I am not sure whether my husband and I would have come to Bhutan if we had to pay 3,600 US$ for just spending nine days here. Fortunately, we had an “old booking” (pre-pandemic), so we did not fall under this new travel rule.

In this context, you also have to consider that before the pandemic more than 70% of the tourists were Indian residents. And this country is exempt from this tourist fee. So, you cannot help but asking yourself why the group that makes the most impact should not contribute their part too. But it is complicated, Bhutan depends on India in many areas.

After having established that a Buthan trip is going to cost you a lot, now to travel arrangements here (private guided tour) by a luxury hotel brand.

Bhutan travel plans set by luxury hotels (Aman, Six Senses & COMO)

As hinted, three international luxury hotel brands have ready made – and also bespoke – travel arrangements for Bhutan on offer. This is about Aman Bhutan, Six Senses Bhutan and COMO Bhutan.

Competitor comparison at the time of our booking

When my husband and I booked our Bhutan journey about four years ago (for spring 2020), we opted for COMO. This because we knew and liked the luxury hotel brand from stays at other locations (my posts: London, Miami Beach). And we were in favor of their itinerary as it offered lots of opportunities to explore the Land of the Thunder dragon by walking.

Of course we had also checked out its competitors, Aman and SixSenses. Yet, the latter was still completing their market entry (first lodges in 2018, opening Gangtey and Bumthang branches in 2019). And we were not overly inclined to play guinea pigs. Although, I have to admit, the individual properties looked – still do – absolutely stunning.

As to Aman, we were tempted to book with them, yet the price tag was higher (nine nights costed about 20,000 US$ for two persons, COMO was priced at 13,351 US$). In this context I have to mention that Aman scored better – still does – in several aspects. Yet, you have to weigh it up.

How the big three – Aman, Six Senses & COMO – compare to each other

As mentioned, my husband and I did not have to pay the new tourist fee (SDF: 400 US$ for two per day) on our recent Bhutan stay (because of our “old booking”). Once back home, I was wondering how much a trip would cost in 2023 in case of a “new booking”. Thus, I did the math for all the three players in the luxury segment, i.e. Aman, Six Senses and COMO.

Before it is about money, I want to have a closer look at the threesome’s appearance in Bhutan. It goes without saying that I only have a closer insight of COMO, although we had the one or other look at Aman or Six Senses properties from far away.For this reason, I will refer to two bloggers who stayed at Aman Bhutan respectively Six Senses Bhutan.

I start with Aman, continue with Six Senses and end with COMO. From this threesome, Aman has the most transparent offer plus you can book their “journeys” (private guided tours) online. As to Six Senses, you can see room prices (full board, without SDF) online, yet not book them. When it comes to “journeys”, there are detailed descriptions, yet the pricing has to be enquired. COMO is yet another case. Room bookings are possible online, but only with half board (without SDF) . As to “journeys”, you can find a range of example ones online (with starter prices).

Aman Bhutan essentials

Aman Bhutan goes under the name of Amankora, which can be translated with “peaceful pilgrimage”. Together with COMO, it was a pioneer in terms of luxury travel in Bhutan. In 2004, these both high-end hotel brands opened their first properties in the Land of the Thunder Dragon, and this in Paro.

Through the years, Amankora grew to five hotels. Properties in Thimphu, Punakha, Gangtey (Phobjikha) and Bumthang were added to the portfolio. All in all, 72 rooms are now available, from what you can conclude that the individual hotels are small.

Just as Amankora’s competitors, they offer a multi-destinations itinerary through the Kingdom of Bhutan. For stays of seven nights and more, a tailor-made travel plan is included in the room rate. It covers everything from accommodation, full board, private transport with a driver and guide, entrance fees to attractions, laundry plus one 60-minute spa treatment. Even house wines and spirits are included at Aman. And this makes a bit of a difference as wine is extremely expensive in Bhutan.

I will not go more into details, only two more remarks. All five lodges seem to share the same basic room layout and design. And only one property features a pool (Punakha). The least expensive room is already on the spacious side (from 52 sqm). And from what I read, they have a communal dining approach at Amankora. For more information, check out the post from a fellow blogger about his (pre-pandemic) stay at Aman Bhutan.

Six Senses Bhutan essentials

Six Senses was not exactly a pioneer in terms of Bhutan travel, as you know by now. They only started in 2018 and actually copied what Aman did before. They chose the same locations and kept their lodges at a similar size (five properties with 82 rooms).

Exactly as Aman and COMO, multi-destinations itineraries for exploring the Land of the Thunder Dragon as its fullest are available. And they include everything that was mentioned above under Aman. This except alcoholic beverages, yet the non-alcoholic ones are part of it (as to the massage and the laundry, I did not find any indications).

In terms of rooms, Six Senses Bhutan seems to feature the most luxurious ones of the threesome, at least from pictures. And of course they are also the newest (lodges opened in 2018/19). Plus, the least expensive room is also rather sizable (60 – 73 sqm). As to pools, two hotels have them. As far as dining is concerned, it does not look like they are into communal dining. If you care for more details, here are (pre-pandemic) posts from a fellow blogger about three properties (Paro, Thimphu, Punakha).

COMO essentials

In contrast to the competition, COMO only has two hotels, one in Paro (opened in 2004), the other in Punakha (opened in 2012). While the former has quite a number rooms (29 units) – it is actually the largest of all the threesome’s properties – , the latter is small (11 rooms). There is a general manager for both hotels, residing in Paro.

If you care for more destinations than two – highly recommended – , it seems that they partner up with other providers. In our tour – booked pre-pandemic – , they offered lodging for the Phobjikha (Gangtey) Valley, and this at the Gangtey Lodge. Currently, I could not find “our” itinerary online. Instead they have travel plans on offer where you stay at a fully serviced overnight camp in addition to their two locations.

COMO’s multi-destinations Bhutan itineraries include everything what Aman does with the exception of the laundry and the beverages. For both, you have to pay extra. As to the rooms, they are well-appointed, but of average size (the second least accommodation – Valley View – measures 32 sqm) and not recently updated. If you care for a pool, the Paro property has an indoor one. And dining takes place at a “normal” restaurant (no communal dining).

For more details about both COMO properties plus Gangtey Lodge, my next blogpost will go into this topic.

Price comparison for multi-destination Bhutan itineraries in 2023 at Aman, Six Senses & COMO 

It is no easy thing to do a price comparison for the three big players regarding their offers for multi-day travel plans in Bhutan. If you decide to base it on online research only, you cannot help including some estimates. In case you do want more specific indications, you have to start an enquiry with the hotel in question. This is especially true for Six Senses, but partly also for COMO. As to Aman, I must sing my praises for their rates transparency!

Find in the following what I found out price wise about a tour in the low season (high season is from March to May and from September to November). Be advised, that it is about approximate starting prices, all in. That means accommodation, full board, beverages (alcoholic with Aman, non-alcoholic with Six Senses), driver and guide, entrance fees, laundry (Aman), one massage (Aman, COMO) are covered. I also added the SDF and the visa fee as well as service charge and sales tax, where necessary. But of course I cannot take any guarantee for the correctness of the information.

For a seven-night tour for two – subject to all the mentioned conditions – , expect to pay from 17,894 US$ with Aman, 14,055 US$ with Six Senses and 12,372 with COMO. Please take note, this is for the Bhutan “journey” only, without any flights. And the greatest uncertainty with the accuracy is in the case of Six Senses, as elaborated above.

Overall (price) comparison touring Bhutan with Aman, Six Senses and COMO

If you want to travel the Kingdom of Bhutan in style, you have to be ready to dig deep into your pockets. Should you ask the question whether it is worth the expense, there is no easy answer. The Land of the Thunder Dragon is for sure an exclusive, remote destination. You have to look far to find another desirable country that is lesser traveled than Druk Yul. And it definitely is a place of longing where you can make experiences that are second to none. And that is for once not an empty phrase!

Yet on the negative side, a Bhutan trip comes with a hefty price tag! And the new Sustainable Development Fee (SDF) of 400 US$ for two per day does not help. Especially if you take into account that this Himalayan kingdom was already an expensive destination without it!

Looking back and forward as to my Bhutan posts

As to my previous Bhutan content, I started with a travel guide, continued with a perfect 9-day itinerary and now compared the three luxury hotel brands in Bhutan offering multi-destinations tours. Next on my blog, you will get insights how it is traveling the Land of the Thunder Dragon with COMO, one of the three big names in the country’s luxury travel sector. And the mini series will find an end with a fifth blogpost going into possible pre- and post-Bhutan stays, as there are usually no direct flights possible from further away.

Date of stay: April 2023

Pin it for later

The post Which luxury hotel brand to choose for a private guided tour in Bhutan first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Which luxury hotel brand to choose for a private guided tour in Bhutan appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Buthan, the mystic kingdom in the Himalayas, is something very special. You will not find another like it! After sharing a travel guide with you in my last post, here is the perfect Bhutan 9-day itinerary how to explore the otherworldly Land of the Thunder Dragon. The journey goes to Buthan’s heartland, the four valleys of Paro, Thimphu, Punakha and Phobjikha. This is the west of the country that most of the travelers see. And this for good reason. It is home to the only international airport, the capital and has a great density of sights.

Before going into details about the places my husband and I visited, here is an overview on all my blogposts about Bhutan.

My mini series about Bhutan travel

As mentioned at the beginning, I already did a travel guide with all the essentials to know when planning to come to Bhutan. As to what will follow, there it is.

In my next post, I will outline how to travel the suggested itinerary via an arrangement by a luxury hotel. There are three international high-end hotel groups that operate in Druk Yul – that is how the locals call their home land. And I want to compare these three. Then I will provide information about traveling Bhutan with our choice of hotel. To end this mini series about the Land of the Thunder Dragon, I will inform about possible pre- and post-Bhutan stays. This because it is usually not possible to fly in directly from more distant countries.

Now to our perfect Bhutan 9-day itinerary.

My Google Map of a Bhutan 9-day itinerary

You find the Bhutan travel plan my husband and I followed in the form of a Google Map. It includes all the (luxury) hotels we stayed, a recommended restaurant we ate (there is only one as we had a full board package) and the things we did. One tip: to experience Bhutan at its most authentic, it is a good idea to throw in a few lesser visited sites and walks/hikes! As to the nature of attractions – the terminology – check out my travel guide.

In case you wonder about other things to do in west Bhutan than mentioned in my Bhutan 9-day itinerary, there are many more. Yet my husband and I had decided that we wanted to explore the four valleys by walking as much as possible. This is supposed to be the royal road to fully immerse into Druk Yul. Because that is what the locals do all the time, at least in the rural regions outside of Paro and Thimphu. I mentioned it in the description of the individual sights in case we walked/hiked to them.

From place to place in west Bhutan, a perfect 9-day itinerary

To begin, a short overview on our 9-night trip. We started and ended with two days in Paro each. The first stay consisted of general sightseeing, the second one was dedicated to the hike to the Tiger’s Nest. Next was the Punakha Valley, where we spent three days in subtropical surroundings. Before our return to Paro, we had two more days in the Phobjikha Valley. Here we delved even deeper into the country’s rural landscapes.

1. Paro Valley 2,200m/7,200ft (day 1&2, day 8&9), 1st & 4th stop Bhutan 9-day itinerary

This is where every visitor arriving by air starts his or her Bhutan journey. The charming town of Paro with a population of about 50,000 lies on the bank of the Paro river. From the impressive Paro Dzong

it is not far to its main street, only built in 1985. It is lined with colorful wooden buildings that all look more or less the same.

1.1. General sightseeing

1.1.1 Paro Dzong

One of the major sights here is the before mentioned Paro Dzong. It sits atop a hill, in a commanding position, overlooking the entire valley. It was constructed in the 17th century and is also called Rinpung Dzong, fortress of the jewel hill.

When my husband and I arrived in Paro at the beginning of April 2023, the Paro Tsechu Festival took place. This is considered as one of the country’s most important ones where masked dancers perform their art. We had not planned our trip around the festival, so we were just lucky of having the chance to attend. And it really was worth it! It was a colorful affair – from the dancers

to the audience

– and allowed us a unique cultural insight.

1.1.2. Walk/Hike to Zuri Dzong Monastery Paro/National Museum Paro

I dearly remember our first walk/hike starting at our hotel (COMO Paro) up the hill towards Zuri Dzong Monastery Paro.

You need about half three quarters of an hour to reach it, walking through beautiful cypress and pine trees. It is one of the oldest dzongs, dating back to 1352. From here you have a stunning panoramic view of the Paro Valley

(we did not enter the premises).

The walk/hike can be continued in the direction of the National Museum, housed in an ancient watchtower, which requires another half hour. It offers a good introduction to the Buthanese heritage and traditions.

1.1.3. Other sights in Paro

If you have more time available, consider driving to Drukgyel Dzong Paro

northwest of Paro. You find another dzong a this spot, where the highway ends. It was erected to control the northern route to Tibet. For a long time, this dzong had been in ruins. Yet recently, it was completely rebuilt. In the time to come, it shall be opened to the public.

On your way back to Paro, make a stop at Kyichu Lhakhang Temple Paro.

It is one of the country’s oldest temples, built in the 7th century. There is a belief that the two orange trees in the courtyard bear fruit throughout the year.

1.2. Tiger’s Nest Monastery Paro Taktsang Hike

This is one of Bhutan’s most incredible sights, the monastery perched on the side of a sheer cliff 900 m/2,953 ft above the floor of the Paro Valley. Without a doubt, a first time trip to Bhutan would not be complete without seeing it!

The complex was built in 1692, around the cave where Guru Rinpoche first meditated. He is said to have brought the Buddhism from Tibet to Bhutan arriving here on the back of a tiger. Thus, giving this place the name “Tiger’s Nest”.

Getting here involves some effort, meaning an intermediate to difficult hike (700 m/2,297 ft up). Allow about five hours for this activity (including a one-hour temple tour). Start early in the morning to avoid crowds. Plan to leave the monastery around midday. At this time the lighting is ideal for photography. Anyone of average fitness can do this hike, just do not rush it!

2. Thimphu Valley 2,248m/7,375ft (transit only)

I do not consider Bhutan’s capital of Thimphu Town as a must-see on your Bhutan trip. If you expect an idyllic town, you will be disappointed. The traditional houses are fast being replaced by multi-story high-rise buildings. And the town incessantly grows in all directions. As many other Asian countries, Bhutan suffers from rural exodus. Problematic in the case of Thimphu is it that there are by far not enough job opportunities for all the people coming from the countryside.

Be it as it may, there are still some sights you should not miss in Thimphu. We passed it twice on our way from Paro to Punakha and back (it is a bit more than a one-hour drive from Paro).

2.1. Buddha Dordenma Statue Thimphu

The huge 51 m/169 ft statute of Buddha Dordenma is located in a commanding position above Thimphu Town. It is made of bronze and gilded in gold, just as the over 100,000 smaller Buddha statues that come with the huge Buddha. The statue was made in China, cut in pieces and reassembled onsite. Its construction began in 2006 and ended in 2015. A businessman from Singapore sponsored the statue, which costed 100 million US$.

2.2. Traffic cop on Thimphu’s busiest intersection

Bhutan is probably the only country worldwide whose capital does not have a single traffic light. Instead, you find a traffic cop at Thimphu’s busiest intersection. He wears white gloves and directs the traffic in an artful way.

From what I learned, there used to be a traffic light at this spot. Yet it was a source of confusion for the road users. Consequently, it was abolished.

2.3. Simply Bhutan Living Museum

Simply Bhutan is an interactive living museum that gives a quick introduction to different aspects of traditional Buthanese life. You learn how Ara, the rice wine, is made, and you can also try it. They inform about the way they construct their houses. There is also the chance to give their national sport, archery, a shot. And you can watch women doing the typical festival dances while you sip traditional butter tea.

Although the whole thing is rather touristy, it is fun, and you need less than an hour to do the whole tour.

2.4. Dochula Pass

If you do not go to Punakha from Paro, it is still worth doing the trip to the nearby Dochula Pass (about a 45-minute drive from Thimphu). This, in particular, if it is a sunny and clear day. Then you have good chances to view the snow-covered Himalaya peaks from here (which are 7,000 m / 23,000 ft about sea level).

My husband and I crossed this mountain pass (3,100 m/10,300 ft) twice, but we had no luck with the weather, so no snow mountains for us. Yet, we had a look at the 108 memorial chortens (shrines) or stupas (tombs), built in 2004.

3. Punakha Valley 1,242m/4,075ft (day 3-5), 2nd stop Bhutan 9-day itinerary

You get to Punakha in a four- to five-hour drive from Paro. And you encounter a totally different world here. As it is at a lower elevation, it is warmer and has a subtropical climate. It is the main producer of rice, also the red one, which is nuttier in taste. And you find here also banana and orange trees.

Punakha is located at the banks of two beautiful rivers, Po Chhu (Male) and Mo Chhu (Female).

There is also the opportunity to do white-water rafting. The town used to be the country’s capital, until 1955. In terms of things to do in Punakha, there is a wide choice to choose from.

3.1. Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten Punakha

Climbing the hill to this chorten or stupa – a religious monument – is a popular thing to do. You need about half an hour to do so, starting at a footbridge in Yepaisa Village. The chorten, built in 2004, was built to ward off negative forces and to spread peace and harmony to everyone. From its roof, you have a fabulous panorama vista of Punakha’s terraced fields.

3.2. Punakha Dzong

This dzong, erected in the 17th century, is arguably Bhutan’s most beautiful one. At the same time, it is the country’s second oldest and second largest one. And it is the winter home of Je Khenpo, the Chief Abbot, staying here with 1,000 monks. Punakha Dzong is also known under the name of the “palace of great happiness”

3.4. Chorten Nyingpo Lhakhang Punakha

Horten Nyingpo is a monastery in Kabisa, built in 17th century. You can reach it by car along a small, curvy road yet it is much more rewarding to hike up to this remote and lesser visited place. In such a way, you are most times in the forest, pass a village at some point and have great views of Punakha’s rice fields.

Once arrived – you need about 1 1/4 hour by foot from Hotel COMO Punakha – , do not “only” visit the monastery but also walk around a bit. View the property from further away, have a look at the picturesque surroundings and at the impressive archery ground in the adjacent village.

3.5. Other sights in Punakha

A popular monastery is Chimi Lhakhang Punakha, also known as fertility temple. This is easy to recognize from the motifs you find here. The temple was built in honor of the so-called “divine madman” who had an unorthodox way of teaching Buddhism and was fond of women, wine and dance.

The Sangchhen Dorji Lhuendrup Lhakhang Nunnery Punakha is a newly built nunnery constructed in traditional style (2010). It is located on a hill among pine trees, boasting breathtaking views of the Punakha Valley. It is a quiet and peaceful place, and everything is tidy too. 120 nuns live here at this Buddhist College.

The Punakha Suspension Bridge is one of Bhutan’s longest ones, measuring 180 m/590 ft. It is adorned with fluttering prayer flags. It spans over the “Male” river and seems quite stable. Having said that, the bridge may sway a bit when it is windy, and this is quite often.

4. Phobjikha Valley 3,000m/10,000ft (day 6&7), 3rd stop Bhutan 9-day itinerary

This contemplative valley is a great addition to make once you are in Punakha and having two more nights to spend before returning to Paro. You reach the Phobjikha Valley after a three- to four-hour drive from Punakha Valley crossing the Lawa La Pass (3,200 m/10,500 ft).

There is lots of agriculture (especially potato cultivation) in this bowl-shaped glacial valley on the western slopes of the Black Mountains. The area is also called Gangte or Gangtey Valley in reference to the Gangtey Goempa Monastery sitting on a ridge above the valley. As to sights here, there is much to to do here as to walking/hiking yet there are also some religious sites.

4.1. Black-Necked Crane Information Center Phobjikha Valley

The Phobjikha Valley is one of the most important wildlife preserves in the country due to the endangered black-necked cranes that winter here. To have a look at this bird – there are two injured ones in a cage – , go to the Black-Necked Crane Information Center. Here you find also informative displays about the black-necked cranes plus an educational 15-minute video. From October to mid-February, you can watch the birds from here feeding on the valley marshlands.

4.2. Walking/Hiking trails in Phobjikha Valley

There is a number of walking/hiking trails to undertake in this area known for its rhododendrons that bloom in spring.

The most popular one is the Gangtey Nature Trail, starting at the Gangtey Monastery. The path winds down through rather flat terrain and ends at the bottom of the valley. You pass pastures, farmhouses and pine forests before coming to a vast open space. Yet, there are many more options to explore the valley by foot, from short walks to immersive three-days treks.

4.3. Gangtey Monastery Phobjikha Valley

The Gangtey Monastery, also known as Gangte Goenpa, is located in a privileged situation at the top of a hill. From here, you can overlook the green expanse of the whole Phobjikha Valley. The monastery, founded in the 17th century, was restored from 2001 to 2008 due to a beetle-larvae infestation. Adjacent to the monastery you find a village where the monks’ families live.

Looking back and forward on my blog

My mini series to Bhutan started with a travel guide for this magic land of fluttering prayer flags, peaceful monasteries and red robed monks. The current post went into the perfect Bhutan 9-day itinerary through four valleys in the country’s west – Paro, Thimphu, Punakha and Phobjikha – the region that most first time travelers visit in this Himalayan nation.

Next on my blog will be a comparison of the three luxury hotels that offer Bhutan itineraries. After this, I give details on our journey through the Land of the Thunder Dragon, arranged by one of these, COMO.

My Bhutan mini series will find an end with outlining opportunities for a pre- and post-stay. This is a necessity because it is usually not possible to reach Druk Yul – yet another name for Bhutan – without a layover, at least when coming from far-away countries.

Date of visit: April 2023

Pin it for later

The post Bhutan in the Himalayas, a perfect 9-day itinerary first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Bhutan in the Himalayas, a perfect 9-day itinerary appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

At last, my husband and I could do our Buthan journey! We had been waiting three years for this moment – due to the pandemic. Yet what took a long time was finally good. This once-in-a-lifetime journey was worth the hassle – booked (and paid) four years ago! If you wonder about Buthan, it really is something special. Think of a nation that measures its success not from an economic perspective but by the happiness of its people. Bhutan is a mystic land of temples and monasteries, deeply rooted in Buddhism. And it is one of the last true unspoiled countries on earth, packed with stunning natural beauty. Find in my travel guide everything you have to know when thinking of coming to Bhutan, the Land of the Thunder Dragon or Druk Yul in the country’s official language of Dzongkha.

Where lies Bhutan?

Bhutan is a small landlocked country in South Asia. It is nestled between India to the south and China to the north. The kingdom is situated in the eastern Himalayas and has a diverse landscape. This ranges from subtropical plains in the south to the Himalayan peaks in the north (the highest is Gangkhar Puensum: 7,570 m/24,840 ft).

The country is about the size of my home country, Switzerland. Yet it only has 700,000 inhabitants (Switzerland has almost 9 million). The capital of Bhutan is Thimphu. It has a population of around 100,000 and is located at an elevation of 2,248 m/7,375 ft. The ancient capital city was Punakha and was replaced by Thimphu in 1955.

What is to know about Bhutan’s tourism?

Bhutan’s history of tourism is relatively recent. It only opened its doors to foreign visitors in 1974. Prior to this, it had been a largely isolated and mysterious kingdom. Bhutan’s government has always been mindful of the potential impact of tourism on its fragile environment and culture. Therefore, it has taken a cautious approach to developing touristic activities.

Before the coronavirus pandemic

In the early years of tourism, Bhutan limited the number of tourists allowed in the country. Visitors were required to travel with a licensed tour operator and to pay a daily tariff. Before the country closed its borders in March 2020 because of the pandemic, travelers had to spend a minimum of 200 to 250 US$ – depending on the season – for a daily package rate. It included costs for three-star lodging, food, transportation and guide as well as a Sustainable Development Fee (SDF) of 65 US$.

After the coronavirus pandemic

After reopening in September 2023, Bhutan’s government eliminated the minimum daily package rate in favor of raising the SDF from 65 US$ to 200 US$ per day. So, travel costs are no longer covered by the fee. Children between 6-12 years pay 50% of the fee, children 5 years and below are free. The revenue from this fee is used to contribute to the country’s economic, social and cultural development. Visitors from India are exempt from it. For the following two years, they only pay 15 US$ per day.

All visitors require a visa before traveling to Bhutan, except those from India, Bangladesh and the Maldives. It costs 40 US$ per person, and you can apply for it online. Alternatively, if you have your trip organized by a tour operator or a hotel group, they can do this for you. One more note to guides. While they are no longer mandatory for activities within Thimphu and Paro Valley, you still need them once you go beyond this area.

What can you expect in terms of things to see & do in Bhutan?

As outlined above, Bhutan has carefully managed the number of tourists who travel to this country. Therefore, it was able to preserve its unique culture, traditions and nature. As to the latter, this country offers a mesmerizing rural scenery, from green terraced fields to pristine plains, valleys and forests, to dramatic inclines and 7,000 m/23,000 ft peaks. As far as Bhutan’s cultural and traditional independence is concerned, it was also promoted by the fact that it has never been colonized. The country’s culture and traditions are closely intertwined with its religion. Of course this is about Buddhism, which still influences many aspects of life in Bhutan. When it comes to where this religion is practiced, find more in the following sections.

Dzongs and their function

You find dzongs throughout the country’s twenty districts. These former fortresses were built to defend against Tibetan invasions, starting in the 12th century. One dzong per district serves both as the center of administration as well as the center of religion and culture. And this with a strict separation between these two purposes. The dzongs with this split function, respectively their courtyards, usually serve as places for festival celebrations too.

Monasteries and Lhakhangs

10,000 of the country’s 700,000 inhabitants are Buddhist monks. You already can start this “career” at the age of five. And yes, there are also female monks (nuns), yet they are less numerous. Monks live in monasteries, known as Gompas or Goenpas. Temples or Lhakhangs can be part of monasteries, or they can be situated outside of them. Both monks and nuns keep their heads shaved and wear distinguishing maroon robes. As a traveler to Bhutan, you can visit many of the monasteries and temples. While you can usually take photos in these properties, this is not allowed inside the temples. Yet you may enter them and watch how the monks pray, chant and even how they have a meal.

Other Bhutan features

Not only the religious and municipal buildings are impressive for foreigners. Also “normal houses” are quite a sight. Did you know that there is a rule how to build them?

A further particularity is also the dress code for Buthanese people. When locals go to the authorities or visit religious sites, men have to wear the gho, women the kira.

In case you think about visiting Bhutan, it is a good thing if you like to explore your surroundings by foot. Because this is the royal road to discover this beautiful country. Embark on a guided trek across forest trails or follow winding paths on steep mountainsides.

Another activity concerns the country’s national sport, archery. Many hotels have their own ground where you can try it out.

If you like river rafting, a good place to head is Punakha. Here you can do this kind of thing on the twin rivers, “Male” and “Female”. Or maybe you want to go on a ride on Himalayan horses?

When is the best time to visit Bhutan?

While you can travel Buthan year-round, there are two preferred seasons to do so. I speak here of the country’s west, where most travelers go. The possibly best season to visit this country is fall, from late September to November. This time brings the changing of leaves, along with dry weather and crispy clear days.

The spring months of March to May are best for flora.

Then the weather is pleasant but not too hot. It is a good time to travel to Bhutan, although there is more chance of overcast days than in fall. It is often windy in the afternoon. Rain is possible but mostly during night. This was the season where my husband and I went to Bhutan. We mostly had sunny days, with short overcast phases. Though we never had a good view of the high mountain peaks, which are perpetually covered in snow. And the soil was extremely dry.

The rainy season (monsoon) is between June and August. Then the temperature is the warmest but there is of course a higher chance of rain. And there can be lower visibility too. The land turns lush and green, what must be quite a sight.

December to February bring sunny days and clear mountain views. Although the temperature drops after dusk, days are still quite warm and pleasant. There is chance of light snow fall in west and central Bhutan, yet larger quantities only occur at higher elevations.

How do you get to Bhutan? What is an ideal pre & post travel plan?

Visitors can travel to Bhutan by air from Bangkok/Thailand (partly with stop in Dhaka/Bangladesh, you can remain on board), Singapore, India (Delhi, Kolkata, Guwahati, Bagdogra) and Kathmandu/Nepal. For now, there are only two airlines that fly into Bhutan, Drukair and Bhutan Airlines. And they do this to Paro, the country’s only international airport. Private jets can only fly into Bhutan after getting the relevant approvals from the authorities.

The landing approach at Paro International Airport in Paro is considered to be one of the most challenging in the world. This is due to its location in a steep-sided valley, surrounded by mountains. Only about 20 specially trained pilots are authorized to land here.

When we flew into Paro at the beginning of April, there were no direct flights from Bangkok (only with stop in Dhaka/Bangladesh). There was only one flight per day, starting at 5 am and landing at 08.30 am. It was carried out by Drukair. For best views of the Himalayan mountain ranges, opt for a seat on the left side for flying in and one on the right side for flying out.

If you wonder about where to stay (in style) in stopover locations on your Bhutan trip, I have suggestions for you as to Bangkok and Hua Hin in Thailand (posts to follow), to Delhi and Agra/Taj Mahal in India as well as to Singapore.

How to get around in Bhutan?

For getting around in west Bhutan – were most travelers go – , it is best to hire a vehicle and driver from a car rental company or a tourism service provider. You cannot drive yourself in Bhutan. If you want to head to Bumthang (central Bhutan), there are domestic flights available.

An option is it also – as my husband and I did – to follow an itinerary set by a hotel. In this case, they arrange a car with driver and guide for you. If you should be into luxury travel, there are three international high-end hotel groups operating in this field. In a post to come, I will go into how to travel Bhutan in style with one of them. It is about COMO. This is the company which has the least expensive journeys – although they are wallet breakers too. There are two more luxury brand that even have more costly offers, more to follow.

Apropos guide, as hinted earlier, you need one once your journey extends beyond Thimphu and Paro. And I would suggest doing so as these both towns are not necessarily what defines Bhutan (see more in my section about a possible itinerary). Besides, guides will be able to give you the insights when visiting temples or fortresses.

What itinerary to choose as a first timer to Bhutan?

I will go into details where to go and what to do in Bhutan when outlining the itinerary my husband and I took in a post to come. Here I just inform about the most common travel plan for a minimum stay and possible expansion options.

While you could make your stay as short as four or five nights, I suggest opting for a minimum of seven nights (we did nine nights). This allows you to explore the not-to-be missed sites and some lesser visited places in two valleys (Paro/Thimphu and Punakha). Do also consider that you are located in Bhutan at quite high elevations (for instance Paro is at 2,200 m/7,200 ft). So, you need some time for acclimatization.

7-night itinerary Bhutan (west Bhutan)

If you have seven nights at your disposal, you can explore three valleys in west Bhutan. I would use day one and two for exploring the Paro Valley (without Tiger’s Nest).

On your way to Punakha (three- to four-hour drive), you can stop in Thimphu (another valley), the capital, for taking in the major sights. As this town is not especially picturesque, I do not consider staying here overnight as a must.

Once arrived in the subtropical Punakha Valley, I recommend three days for checking out this beautiful area, one of the most magnificent ones in Bhutan.

Return to Paro for your days six and seven. On your way back, visit some more spots in the Thimphu Valley before tackling your hike to the Tiger’s Nest (about five hours) on your last day.

9-night (west Bhutan) respectively 12-night itinerary Bhutan (plus central Bhutan)

In case you have two days more, I suggest adding the Phobjikha Valley, also known as Gangtey Valley, a strikingly appealing glacial valley (three- to four-hour drive).

If you have additional three days to spend in Bhutan, another valley might be an option, and this is the Bumthang Valley in central Bhutan. This requires another five-hour drive (from Phobjikha Valley). I have not been here, but it must be a noteworthy place, also called the “Switzerland of the East”. To avoid the long drive back to Paro, consider a flight of about 35 minutes.

Are there any other interesting facts about Bhutan?

Economic situation in Bhutan

Since Bhutan became a democratic constitutional monarchy in 2008, it has relied on a development strategy based on Gross National Happiness, as briefly mentioned above. The country is nowadays considered as lower-middle income country. It has been able to substantially reduce poverty over the last two decades. This was due to the development of hydropower and a strong performance in services, including tourism. Other sectors remain less competitive, so job creation outside of the public sector and agriculture (70% of the population are farmers)

is limited. And tourism has been slow to recover after the pandemic, partly due to the already indicated tripled Sustainable Development Fee (SDF) for international tourists. The small kingdom has strong economic relations with India, also most tourists to Bhutan come from here, more than 70% before the pandemic (source: The World Bank and others).

Buthanese cuisine

The base of the Buthanese cuisine is rice, especially red rice, which has a certain nutty flavor. Buckwheat, wheat and corn are also used, to make noodles

and some kind of polenta. These starch ingredients as well as potatoes are combined with meat just as beef, pork, lamb and yak. Locals use lots of chili to season their dishes, along with cheese.

These are also the star ingredients for their national dish, Ema Datshi.

Another dish that you get everywhere in Bhutan are Momos.

These dumplings are filled with vegetable or meat and are mostly served steamed. And of course you get chili paste with it. Furthermore, Indian food is also widely available.

As to beverages, there is Suja, a tea made of butter. The most common alcoholic drink is Ara. It is produced by fermenting or distilling wheat, rice, millet, barley or buckwheat.

Bhutan Animals

More than 70% of Bhutan’s territory is covered by forest. This area is home to quite a diversity of wildlife. There is the takin, the national animal of Bhutan. It has a nose like a moose, horns like a wildebeest and a body like a bison. So, it is quite an odd-looking creature.

But there is more of wildlife. Bhutan is home to tigers, one-horned rhinos, golden langurs, leopards, snow leopards, Asiatic elephants and red pandas. There are also lots of birds, among them the black necked cranes

and the white bellied herons.

What is next on my blog about Bhutan?

After this travel guide to Bhutan, I will provide a perfect 9-day itinerary for the Land of the Thunder Dragon. A post about how to explore Bhutan with an arrangement by hotels will follow. As we love luxury getaways, it is about upscale lodging. As hinted earlier, there are three luxury hotel groups operating on such a basis in Druk Yul. And I will compare them with each other. After this look at “the luxury threesome”, I will go into our choice’s details, and this is COMO. Finally, there will be a blogpost about where to stay before and after a Bhutan trip. As we flew in from Bangkok, we had a pre-Bhutan stay in Bangkok and a post-Bhutan one in Hua Hin/Thailand.

Date of visit: April 2023

Pin it for later

The post Travel guide to Bhutan, the Himalayan kingdom full of culture, tradition & spirituality first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Travel guide to Bhutan, the mystic kingdom in the Himalayas appeared first on Swiss Traveler.