Ubud is not only Bali’s cultural heart but also its culinary hotspot. There is quite a number of (casual) fine dining restaurants here that are a must for every foodie. During my recent stay in Ubud in central Bali I had dinner at some of the best gourmet dining spots. And I made some really mind-blowing gastronomic experiences. Which, I have to admit, was something that I did not think was possible. Although I knew that there were culinary gems around.

On an earlier trip, my husband and I accidentally passed the town’s current culinary showpiece, Restaurant Locavore. And this was six months after its opening in November 2013, when its future success was not forseeable. We thought it made a good impression, went in and got a reservation for the following day. We were thrilled by the dinner at the time! Less so, when we wanted to return two years later, and it was fully booked months in advance. So, we had to wait until last November to dine here again. And it was once again incredible! More later.

Before coming to the individual restaurants, a quick look at Bali’s gourmet restaurant scene.

Bali’s fine dining scene

While there is the one or another gourmet spot on the island outside of Ubud, the place to go as serious foodie is definitely this town in central Bali. The pioneer of Ubud’s fine dining scene is chef Chris Salans with his Mozaic Restaurant, opened in 2001. The American French chef has skillfully combined local ingredients with western technique in a nice tropical setting ever since. I personally have not dined here yet. On our recent stay, the dining spot was still closed due to the pandemic. Chris Salans reopened it in December, partnering with a younger ex-associate chef.

In the aftermath of the early bird of Mozaic, there was the already mentioned Restaurant Locavore that formed the scene. Since then, there has been quite a development in terms of the arrival of other promising (casual) fine dining spots. I name here chef Will Goldfarb with its Restaurant Room4Dessert and chef Nic Vanderbeeken with its Restaurant CasCades at Hotel Viceroy, both opened in 2014.

In 2015, Restaurant Blanco Par Mandif by chef Mandif Warokka followed, at the same time as Restaurant Kubu at Hotel Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve, by chef Bayu Retno Timur. I have been to all of the newer establishments except for Nic Vanderbeeken’s place (who changed to the new Restaurant Apéritif at Hotel Viceroy in 2019). So, I can let you know about what to expect at them. I find it amazing how the former fine dining backwater was able to turn into a vibrant culinary hotspot! And hence, there is no Michelin Guide for Bali, your best source probably are the lists at The World’s 50 Best Restaurants site.

5 top Ubud (casual) fine dining restaurants

I start with four of the best (casual) fine dining spots in Ubud (respectively Bali). From which, I visited three on my recent 2022 stay in Bali and one on an earlier occasion in 2016. Furthermore, there is one more, a second restaurant of a big name here. And it is a place that is a bit more down to earth than the others.

Restaurant Locavore

A wild ride through the most ingenious creations made by two enterprising chefs using local produce only

Locavore is the local gastronomic showpiece. It is definitely the place to go for a foodie if you have only one dinner in Ubud. But make sure to book well in advance as it is very popular. This is especially the case at the moment as the restaurant is coming to an end as one knows it. That does not mean that the busy team behind Locavore retires from Ubud’s culinary scene. Quite the opposite, it just enters a new phase. There is a new project under construction and opening in the second quarter of 2023 (see more). Until this happens, you still can enjoy the creations at the “old” Locavore. Precisely, you can taste their favorite fifty dishes from nine years of restaurant history, and this in the form of three different menus over the next time.

My husband and I had the pleasure of being served Exhibition Menu No 2, and this on the restaurant’s ninth birthday on the third of November 2022! Wow, what an experience! You get here, as the name says it, local produce. Chefs Eelke Plasmeijer (a born Dutchman) and Ray Adriansyah (from Jakarta) know how to enchant their clientele. They bring diners on a journey of discovery of the unknown. A series of dishes are served that surprise at every bite!

The 18-course menu costs 84 SFR/US$ and is divided into four explorations. You can include a drinks pairing for additional 33 SFR/US$, which I recommend. You get creative drinks, some with alcohol, others not (but no wine). And it really takes the dinner to a whole new level. The ambiance at Locavore was relaxed, the staff was friendly and knowledgeable, the service was adequately fast (we spent three hours and a quarter here).

Restaurant Room4Dessert

A discovery trip through Will Goldfarb’s sweet world (which also includes savory snacks for a start) in three parts

When my husband and I walked by the Restaurant Room4Dessert in Ubud’s outskirts in 2016, I thought that it would be nice to eat here. I had heard about Will Goldfarb’s place (opened in 2014), but I did not want to drag my husband to a dessert-only meal (he has not such a sweet tooth as I). Much has changed since then! The property of the American born pastry chef grew from a 100 sqm venue to a 1,000 sqm one with a garden that has 300 different plants and 100 types of trees! They all flow in his recipes in some way or the other. And Will Goldfarb was named The World’s Best Pastry Chef at the World’s 50 Best Restaurants awards in 2021!

When checking out the dining spot for dinner in November 2022, I found out that the experience was now different. You are in for a meal in three parts. After a tour through the garden you get seven savory snacks at the bar, seven desserts in the dining room and seven petit fours in the garden.

On our visit, it was up to Season 13 Part 2, The Golden Age.

The menu amounted to 77 SFR/US$ including spirits (for the second part), which we had. Alternatively, you can choose it with a spiritless tasting (65 SFR/US$) or without any drinks (53 SFR/US$).

There is young team of amiable and laid-back locals that takes care of you, overseen by the impressive personality of Will Goldfarb. The pastry chef is present wherever needed, has a word with a staff member or with his guests. I found his performance admirable! The same is true for the food. Already the snacks were persuasive. Yet the sweet treats were simply amazing! They started light and and became gradually richer. The treat is really worth it, even my husband was blown away! And the meal was paced just right, we were here three hours and a quarter.

Restaurant Blanco Par Mandif

Haute Indonesian degustation menus with a twist in an elegant, intimate setting

If you look for a fine dining restaurant that radiates classical elegance and an intimate feel, then this it.

Of course, food is a highlight too, you get here a modern take on Indonesian cuisine. And you clearly note that chef Mandif Warokka also drew inspiration from his stays abroad. After his first restaurant, Teatro Gastroteque serving French cuisine with a Japanese twist, he opened his current one inside the Blanco Renaissance Museum complex in 2015. It is small, with only 20 seats, boasting views of the Tjampuhan river.

This was the most expensive meal we had in Ubud. There are four menus to choose from, all with seven courses except the fourth one. First, Degustation (Adiboga), with seafood and meat, costing 116 SFR/US$. Second, Vegetarian (Giriloka) for 73 SFR SFRf/US$. Third, Pescatarian (Tirtaloka), with seafood, that amounts to 110 SFR/US$. Finally, there is Hakkaisan, a Sake dinner menu, with seafood and meat, paired with Sake, available for 134 SFR/US$. My husband and I had opted for the degustation menu, we had to make our choice already at the time of our booking.

As to the food, it was immaculate, in every aspect, and inventive too. The ambiance inhere was very quiet, almost serene. The hand-washing ritual that the a staff member performed with us at the start of the meal contributed to this impression. Staff was very polite and attentive. There were not many diners around on our visit, we had booked “the first slot” right after the restaurant opened. Luckily, I have to say, because after the fifth course, we heard a loud bang. And then the electricity went out and never came back until we left. They were able to provide the two remaining dishes and the petit fours, but of course the experience was compromised. What a pity! Yet it happens.

Restaurant Kubu at Hotel Mandapa

Well-made Mediterranean-European cuisine in bamboo dining cocoons

Our dinner at the signature restaurant at Hotel Mandapa, a Ritz Carlton Reserve, dates back to 2016, so my impressions may be somewhat blurred. I well remember that I was not so enthusiastic about our table in one of the nine private dining cocoons just by the Ayung river. Although this is supposed to be a popular seating, I would have preferred a regular table. It was a hot and humid evening so that I considered the cocoon as a bit constricting with no wind coming in. Anyway, these huts are an original idea for sure!

Another thing that I did not forget that it was pitch dark in these cocoons. We could almost not make out what we were getting served. This is always a pity, especially when the food is artistically arranged on the plates. And that was definitely the case here! Yet also the food quality and preparation knew how to persuade. Chef Bayu Retno Timur oversees the kitchen here, who looks back at 14 years of experience in the culinary industry within 5-star hotels. You get here well-executed Mediterranean inspired dishes. They are made with premium ingredients and served by accommodative and informative staff.

You can dine here à la carte (starters from 12 to 29 SFR/US$, mains from 17 to 34 SFR/US$, desserts 9 SFR/US$) or opt for one of the two tastings menus (The Gourmet: 7 courses for 76 SFR/US$ / The Essential: 5 courses for 54 SFR/US$). When my husband and I had dinner here in 2016, we had The Essential (then Degustation 6 for 46 SFR/US$), and we liked what we got! One final recommendation for outside guests: arrive early enough to take in the views!

Restaurant Nusantara by Locavore

Contemporary Indonesian family-style dining by the flourishing food empire of Locavore

Locavore – see the dining spot that I mentioned first – is more than just a restaurant. Chef-owners Eelke Plasmeijer and Ray Adriansyah, who are beyond it, have developed it much further. There is the casual dining concept of Locavore To Go, the cocktail bars Night Rooster and Club Soda in Canggu, the Local Parts butcher shop with its Butcher’s Table, the R&D unit of Localab and Agency X, a F&B consultant company. And last but not least, Nusantara is also part of this family.

Nusantara by Locavore was opened in 2016, named after the Javanese word for archipelago. You have to know that Indonesia consists of 17,000 islands. Nusantara has made it its mission to showcase their signature dishes. Each is marked on the menu with its origin and is made with indigenous ingredients. The place is helmed by chef I Putu Dodik Sumarjana, who has worked his way up at Locovore. To prepare for the work here, he and his team travelled to different Indonesian islands to sample dishes and learn to cook them.

While Nusantara is not an actual fine dining restaurant, it is much more than a simple eatery showcasing local food. You get here traditional Indonesian cuisine in a contemporary experience. The menu changes regularly, but some favorites remain just as jukut kelor mesanten, a rich soup of moringa leaves, ground-spice paste and torch ginger cooked in a coconut – they roast the coconut over an open fire in front of the dining spot. It is about family-style dining here, you order a number of dishes and share them with your table companion. They recommend 2-3 small dishes (4-8 SFR/US$), 1-2 big dishes (9-14 SFR/US$), 1 rice (2 SFR/US$) and 1 dessert (3 SFR/US$) for two persons, which I found just right.

Everything we had was delicious! Staff is friendly and helpful. The setting is laid-back and charming with its rattan partitions and Batik prints.

Overall/Looking back

In this post I highlighted some of the best (casual) fine dining restaurants in Ubud. This town’s gastronomic scene has been undergoing a great development in the last decade. Serious foodies coming to Bali are no longer forced to leave this island disappointed, at least when it comes to dining in style. After eating at five of the top restaurants on the Islands of the Gods, I would like to give the remaining ones on my list (Restaurant Mozaic and Restaurant Apéritif) a try on a further trip!

In my Bali mini-series I also wrote about other topics than dining (this is the last post about the island). My first blogpost was about how to get the most out of a trip as demanding traveler (general info and where to go for sights plus luxury hotels). The second went into some of the best (easy) walks on the Island of the Gods. And the third informed about actual accommodations to choose here when longing to stay in style, divided by location.

Last date of stay: November 2022

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After identifying must-do Bali places in my first post of my mini-series about this island, I now focus on which hotels to go for a luxury stay in this very spots. While the selection of lodging for staying in style on the Island of the Gods is generally good, there are areas where such accommodations are scarce. After four visits to this island in eight years, I had my share of staying at some of the best Bali luxury hotels. Although I was quite fond of most of them, there are certain things to consider, which I would like to share with you.

Before plunging in medias res, first an overview of my Bali mini-series.

What is my Bali mini-series about?

My current mini-series about Bali comprises four blogposts. The first one was about findings gained after four stays in eight years. And this was especially in the context of luxury travel. I looked into Bali as a travel destination, the best time to visit this island, how to proceed when wishing to do walks here. And I put together an itinerary where to go on the Island of the Gods for sights yet also for staying in style at the same time.

The focus of my second Bali post was about easy walks to do on this island. And I based them on the Bali itinerary I have just mentioned. Just to make clear, it is not about hardcore hikes but about leisurely walks, very often in the island’s many rice fields.

The actual post about which hotels to choose for a luxury stay follows the same itinerary that I wrote about.

And as a (massive) foodie, I tried out the best what Bali has to offer in the field of high-end gastronomy. In particular Ubud does not have to hide in this respect. My fourth and last blogpost will be about five great (casual) fine dining restaurants in the island’s cultural center.

Before coming to luxury hotels by location, there is one more thing I want to write about in this context, and this is prices.

Prices for luxury hotels in Bali

Since going to Bali in 2014 for the first time, there has been a price difference between internationally and and locally owned luxury hotels. Without surprise, the former demand higher rates than the latter. And this for similarly equipped accommodations. While we relied on Indonesian hotels on our first trip in 2014, we did a mix in 2016. The same was true in 2019 and 2022.

To my experience, the service at Indonesian owned properties is almost always convincing. However, this is not necessarily the case as to other aspects. I think in this context of food quality or cleanliness standards. But otherwise, they are usually on par with the ones of international hotel groups. And of course you are not safe from negative surprises when staying at western branded lodging too.

What changed in recent years is that rates at Indonesian and international luxury hotels are drifting apart more and more. If you want a pool villa in Ubud at the latter, you have to fork out nowadays around 1,400 to 1,600 SFR/US$ per night. And that was the price on our recent stay in November, in the shoulder season, with lots of vacancies. At that time, my husband and I had to look for a new place to stay. This was owed to circumstances, but this is another story.

The key message here is that international hotel groups stick to their (over-high) pricing at their Ubud properties. And this, no matter what happens. And their price level has increased considerably over the years. In 2016, we had a large suite at the Mandapa, A Ritz-Carlton Reserve Ubud, for 533 SFR/US$ in the high season. In November 2022, the same would have costed us 1,282 SFR/US$!

Bali upscale hotels by location

While luxury lodging in Bali’s south is plentiful – the tourist hotspot here, geared to sun, sea and sand – , this is not necessarily so in other areas. There is one more place where you find plenty of hotels to stay in style, and this is in Ubud in central Bali. Apart from those two areas, the offer of accommodations suitable for the discerning traveler is not broad.

When having a look at the “underdeveloped” parts of the Islands of the Gods in terms of high-end lodging, the situation presents itself as follows. There is no high-end lodging to speak of in Bali’s west. When it comes to the island’s north, the offer is scarce, and the same is true for the east.

Now to the individual hotels, following the Bali itinerary I mentioned. For information regarding the area where these properties are located, have a look at my first post.

Bali’s south: best luxury hotels

My husband and I can look back on three stays in Bali’s most popular – and crowded – region. And we always went here for a few quiet days on the coast after exploring other parts of the island.

Seminyak

This sleek beach town was our choice when first visiting Bali in 2014. We had opted for The Samaya Seminyak, which boasts a terrific beachfront location.

This hotel, owned by an Indonesian hotel group, offers pool villas only (52 units),

from which the Royal Pavilions are the signatures ones.

If I had to rate this accommodation in terms of luxuriousness, I would give it 7 out of 10.

For more info, have a look at my (short) post about it. As we have not returned, I cannot make any final judgement. From what I read on the internet, reviews are still favorable: Google 4.7 out of 5 and Booking.com 9 out of 10.

Nusa Dua

We went to this enclave of luxury resorts on our 2019 stay. Instead of opting for staying at one of the big names of western hospitality, we chose a Balinese owned property, The Royal Santrian.

You find here pool villas (20 units) only, and the category to go for is the Royal Villa with ocean views.

Rooms are luxuriously appointed in a contemporary style with Balinese touches.

The location on a quieter part along the boardwalk is great. I liked the relaxed ambiance at this boutique accommodation. This together with the good hospitality made it a pleasant stay here in this quite artificial world of Nusa Dua. As to its luxury feel, I give the hotel 7 out of 10. My research on the internet resulted in the realization that it still seems to be a good place for a few days on the beach (Google 4.7 out of 5 and Booking.com 9.3. out of 10).

Sanur

In contrast to Nusa Dua, you are here in a real coastal town. And it is yet Bali’s oldest beach destination. The reason my husband and I stranded in Sanur in 2016, was the recently opened Maya Sanur Resort & Spa (2015), a property owned by a Balinese family.

The Maya is rather large (103 rooms). In terms of accommodations, we had booked one of the eight Ocean View Pool Suites.

The room was great offering lots of space and a small pool with splendid sea views.

I liked the hotel’s construction, which is modern yet with lots of Balinese elements. As to location, it is perfect in the town’s center just by the beach.

On the negative side, I was not so in favor of the vibe in the pool area and at its breakfast restaurant (Mayasari). When lounging by the pool or having breakfast, I felt like staying at a midscale rather than an upscale lodging. And breakfast was mediocre at best (self service only). Staff generally was friendly, but not more.

As to the hotel’s luxuriousness, I attribute 6 out of 10 points to it. Residing in a good room is not enough. All the rest has to be right too to get a feel of real luxury. I am not sure if I would recommend the Maya to a demanding clientele. The reviews are mixed: Google 4.7 out of 5 and Booking.com 8.8 out of 10 (for me the minimum has to be 9 out 10). Maybe check out the new Hotel Andaz Bali (opened 2021) for your Sanur stay.

Central Bali: best luxury hotels

When speaking about staying in central Bali, it is primarily about hotels in Ubud, the island’s cultural and spiritual hub. And here you encounter a great number of luxury hotels. There are not numerous options to stay in style in and near Ubud’s town center – you find here some nice yet very boutique lodging in the rice fields. Most accommodations that suit the demanding traveler, are a bit away from the town’s core. Some that call themselves Ubud based properties are quite a distance from here.

My advice is to opt for a hotel that is relatively close to the town center. And this for three reasons. First, while 9 or 10 kilometers (5.6 mi or 6.2 mi) does not sound like being far away, this is not true for Ubud. Traffic here can be hell, and you might end up getting stuck in roadways quite a long time. Second, in case you plan to have dinner in Ubud’s core – you should as a foodie, my next post goes into this – , it is much more convenient. Third, staying close by allows you to walk into town (see my recent post).

Ubud

On our three Ubud stays, we lodged at two different hotels. Actually, it should have been three. My husband and I had booked a boutique hotel in the rice fields (no access by car) when being last here.

Unfortunately, this did not work out for us, so had we to find another solution on short term. We ended up in returning to the one we stayed in 2014. They offered a big discount (it was in shoulder season), in opposite to all the others we checked out in our desperate efforts to find a new place to stay.

The Samaya Ubud

The Samaya Ubud, managed by an Indonesian hotel group, was our choice of accommodation on our first visit to Ubud in 2014, and our “stopgap” in November 2022. While I was pretty fond of it on our first stay (see my short review), it is still a good choice. However, it is in need of some maintenance. My husband and I had the impression that the hotel has not yet fully woken up from its “Corona slumber”. Some villas are freshly painted, others not. Some furnishings were up to date, others needed replacing.

Yet, the property still enjoys this spectacular hillside location at the foot of the Ayung river. The deep valley views over rice terraces are really hard to beat.

And the 19 pool villas offer the comfort you would expect from an upscale hotel.

Also the service orientation here is strong. Yet, some efforts are bound to happen to become a top notch property again (maintenance as mentioned, more thorough cleaning and better breakfast pastries).

As to reviews, it still gets good ones: Google 4.7 out of 5 and Booking.com 9.3 out of 10. I give it in terms of luxury 7 out of 10 for our 2014 stay and 6 out 10 for our recent one.

Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve

Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve, is possibly one of the best and most luxurious hotels in Ubud, the 2015 opened third property of the prestigious Ritz-Carlton Reserve brand. To this day, there are five worldwide. What is special about them? They are based on four mantras: Striking, Intimate, Magical and Enlightening. And that is also what you can say about the experience of staying here, what we did in 2016 (see my post about it).

The hotel enjoys – as The Samaya Ubud – a dramatic hillside location on the Ayung river. The buildings cascade down the hill, topped by kind of a mighty fortress. From this “crown” you have an unobstructed view of the whole compound (60 villas and suites). I was so impressed by this amazing piece of architecture! And all the rest is formidable too (ambiance, service, food).

The negative point here is the pricing, which seems a bit over the top. Since our 2016 stay, the rate for the Mandapa Suite (the biggest suite onsite) has doubled from 533 SFR/US$ (20% off from regular rate) in high season to 1,282 SFR/US$ in shoulder season.

Having said that, other Ubud properties of international hotel groups are in the same high price segment (Four Seasons, Amandari).

The reviews for Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve, are fabulous: Google 4.7 out of 5 and Booking.com 9.7 out of 10. I attribute 9 out of 10 points for its perceived luxury feel.

Bali’s north: best luxury hotels

As hinted, luxury hotels in Bali’s lesser visited north are not plentiful. The best places to go here for staying in style are in Lovina or in Munduk. Whereas I visited the former back in 2014, I have never been to the latter.

Lovina

My husband and I chose The Damai for our stay in the quiet coastal town of Lovina in 2014. The hotel is located in the hills above this seaside resort and was built by a Danish advertising executive. It boasts 15 villas, which are different in size and amenities, some have pools. My husband and I liked our Pool Villa and the breakfast here, other aspects were not that convincing (see my post).

I am not sure about the current status of The Damai. I read on TripAdvisor that this hotel has not opened since the pandemic. Some travelers also complained that the reimbursement of payments already payed had turned out to be difficult. I cannot judge whether this is true or not. I noticed on their website under “booking” that this hotel is under renovation until early 2023.

As to reviews, it is not (any more) on Booking.com, it is rated 4.5 out of 5 on Google. As to its luxury feel, I give it 6 out of 10.

Munduk

In Munduk, inland from Lovina, you find an accommodation that might suit the discerning traveler, Munduk Molding Plantation Nature Resort & Spa. You find here not only lodging (11 rooms, some have pools) but also a coffee plantation. Maybe this hotel is worth checking out for your North Bali stay.

Reviews are good: Google 4.8 out of 5 and Booking.com 9.5 out of 10.

Bali’s east: best luxury hotel(s)

This is also a part of the island that is not distinctively touristy. And there is only one hotel here that caters for the discerning traveler, the Amankila in Manggis. But this accommodation of the famed Aman brand is a real find! We stayed here twice, in 2019 and 2022. And we immensely enjoyed it on both occasions!

While it is not a new property, it aged well. And they do a lot as to maintenance here. You find here 31 rooms, from which 12 have their private pools. Yet I do not think that the latter is a must as there are two formidable pools are onsite. Especially the main pool is a true feast for the eyes.

Rooms have all the same layout, which I consider as brillant (oversized and extremely practical).

While some have sea views, others have not. I personally would go for the former – what we did on our our recent visit. It is such a nice thing to linger on the generous outdoor area

and taking in this gorgeous vista!

For details have a look at my post about Amankila. I cannot think of many negative points here. Everything from ambiance, service to food options is great. As to the latter, they have just opened an additional restaurant, an Italian one. Also their complimentary afternoon tea offerings have been expanded. As a last remark, while Hotel Amankila is not an inexpensive choice, it is astoundingly affordable for an Aman property. Staying here does not cost the earth as it is usually the case with other Aman hotels. Reviews for this accommodation are good: Google 4.6 out of 5 and Booking.com 9.3 out of 10. In terms of luxurious feel, I attribute 9 points out of 10 to it.

Overall/What was before and what is next?

My first post in my mini-series about Bali was about how to get the most out of your trip as discerning traveler (general info and where to head for sights plus staying in style). And this very post went into the details, some of the best Bali  luxury hotels to go in the different parts of this island.

In between, there was another one describing some of the best (easy) walks to do on the island, divided by location.

There is one more blogpost in the pipeline, and it is for the foodies among you. It is a guide to the best (casual) fine dining in Ubud in central Bali.

Last date of stay: November 2022

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I like to walk, and this everywhere imaginable – if it is not too strenuous. This was not any different in Bali. After four visits to this island in eight years, I had ample chance to do this on the one or other occasion. So, I will share the best Bali walks with you, divided by location. Take note that it is NOT about (serious) hiking – no climbing Mount Agung or so. Instead I would like to go into walking or hiking for pleasure on the Island of the Gods, with a low to medium exercise intensity.

Before diving into suggestions for best Bali walks, first some general info about walking on the Island of the Gods.

How to proceed when walking in Bali

In my overview post about Bali, I have already promoted the outdooractive app (here for Bali). I find it quite easy to use and very well to navigate. And you can do this also when you are offline. Best in my opinion is it to use it when you are already onsite, for example in Ubud. Then you can list possible hikes, and there are often more suggestions than when doing the same thing from far away.

This app is also great when it comes to possible paths next to where you are (the dotted lines). In such a way, you can find your own ways, for example from your hotel in Ubud’s surroundings to the town center. My husband and I did this on our recent visit to Bali’s cultural and spiritual center. And it was a great way to experience the wonderful rice fields in the area along less visited trails.

One more remark to your Bali walks. Quite often you encounter dogs, especially when doing your own ways in the area. From what I read, there are many more than before Corona. Most house owners have more than one dog, and there are stray dogs too. Please be careful when coming across them. While most are harmless, there are also aggressive ones. Maybe check out beforehand how to handle possibly critical situations in this regard.

But now to concrete walking recommendations, listed by place. I will do this along the same scheme I used for my Bali itinerary in my mentioned overview post about Bali.

Bali walks by location

I usually limit myself to such walks I have already made. Yet there is the one or other walk I only read about but have not done yet. But I will mark them accordingly.

Bali’s south: best walks

I start with the island’s south, known for going to for sun, sea and sand. Yet there are also some walks to do here, however they are not plentiful.

Nusa Dua

Nusa Dua is a purpose-built enclave with predominantly upscale lodging. Many of the hotels are situated along a paved board walk,

which is great for a leisurely walk. You can start either at the Conrad Resort on Tanjung Benoa or near Mengiat Beach close to the Ayodya Resort. The whole path is about 5 km (3.1 mi) long, and you need about two hours out and back. It is really a great thing to have a sneak peek into all these accommodations.

But it is more than this. Along the way – near the Grand Hyatt – , there are two islands (Nusa Due means “two islands”). However, they are more headlands than anything else. You find a statue and a water blow on one and a small temple on the other.

Sanur

This somewhat sleepy town on the southeastern coast also has a great board walk. It is paved and runs for 6 km (3.7 mi) along the sea.

While doing it, you pass hotels just as in Nusa Dua, albeit they mainly cater for midscale to budget travelers. Yet there are also lots of restaurants, beach clubs, small markets and spots full of fishing boats.

I would guess that you need about three hours to do the whole stretch out and back (from Matahari Terbit Beach in the north to Mertasari Beach in the south).

Central Bali: best walks

You find quite a lot of walks in Ubud. Quite often they are in the rice paddies, which are nice. Yet in case you are on the lookout for really great rice terraces, you have to go further north. The big name here are Tegallalang and Jatiluwih.

Ubud

Essentially there are two must-do walks here, both just off the main road of Jalan Raya Ubud. The first is a ridge walk (1.), the other is one in the nearby rice fields (2.). And they are parallel to each other. In addition, there is also a picturesque village in the rice paddies adjoining Ubud’s center where you could do either a circuit or use it as passageway from your hotel by the Ayung river to “downtown” Ubud (3.).

1. Campuhan Ridge Walk

Directions & map: Outdooractive

This is probably the most popular walk in Bali’s cultural hub. From the paved path you have great views of river gorges (Campuhan means “place where two rivers meet”) and lush tropical forests (not many rice fields).

First you are more or less in the nature, later on you come to a neighborhood with lots of cafés and restaurants.

Campuhan Ridge Walk starts off the main road (Jalan Raya Ubud), right before crossing the bridge leading to the Blanco Museum. The (out and back) trail is 4 km (2.5 mi) long (until the Karsa Café). We walked a bit longer until we came to a busy road (Jalan RSI Markandya II) where we turned around. This took us about one hour and 45 minutes.

2. Subak Juwuk Manis & Subak Sok Wayah Rice Fields Walk

Directions & map: Outdooractive

If you look for a time out from the hustle and bustle in Ubud’s core, you are only steps away from an easy and peaceful rice field walk. It is actually about two parallel trails connected to a loop. You can start at either of them, here I give directions when doing Subak Juwak Manis first.

The trailhead ist just off the main road (Jalan Raya Ubud). From the Starbucks in Ubud’s center go towards Museum Puri Lukisan (in the direction of the Blanco Museum). Right before the museum there is a small passage where the walk is signposted towards right.

When you are away from the buildings on the main road, rice paddies take turn with scattered houses, always along a narrow river (that you will not necessarily notice).

At one point you come to a forest. After walking in it for a while,

a bridge appears, which you have to cross to get to the other side of the small river. Then you go in the opposite direction until you come to stairs, which you have to climb.

At this point, you are on the other trail, Subak Sok Wayah. You either return to Ubud’s core or explore the path a bit further before heading back. My husband and I did the latter and turned around when we caught sight a dog that seemed not that friendly. The whole trail is about 6.6 km (4.1 mil) long. You need about one hour and 45 minutes to finish it.

3. Penestanan Rice Field Circuit

Directions & map: Outdooractive

The Penestanan village adjoining to Ubud’s center is a great area for having a pleasant rice paddy walk. Or, as in our case, it offers an idyllic passageway to walk from Ubud’s core to all the nearby hotels along the Ayung River.

I name here just a few of them: Mandapa A Ritz-Carlton Reserve, Amandari, Four Seasons Resort or The Samaya Ubud.

If you like walking just as my husband and I do, it is a great way to explore a lesser known area in Ubud. If you should have your hotel around here, check out possible paths on Outdooractive. The link above brings you to a circuit in Penestanan from which I only did parts of it (using it as a passageway). Yet, I think that it would be worthwhile doing as a whole.

From Ubud’s center, walk on the main road (Jalan Raya Ubud) to the Blanco Museum (about 12 minutes). From here you are only a few minutes away from the Penestanan stairs that bring you up to the picturesque village of Penestanan.

Tegallalang Rice Terraces (20 minutes from Ubud by car)

These are probably the most beautiful rice terraces I have ever encountered. Their steepness makes them really special. Yet there is a big BUT. When I was here in 2016, Tegallalang was already a big tourist attraction with quite a crowd around. From what I read, it got worse. The rice terraces seem to have turned into some sort of a tourist trap with swings and other Instagram spot everywhere. I am sad to hear this, and I dearly hope that the government will intervene to put an end to the overexploitation of this wonderful patch of earth.

On our 2016 visit, it was still possible to get away from the masses by walking a bit further into the valley. But as I understand, much has changed, and overtourism is prevalent here. So, I am not in the position to give good advice in terms where to go for a walk to take in these amazing rice terraces. I checked out walking suggestions on the internet (nothing on Outdooractive). And what I found is following trail how to access the most beautiful part of these steep Tegallalang rice terraces. Maybe give it a try!

Jatiluwih Rice Terraces (one hour 15 minutes from Ubud by car)

Instead of going to Tegallalang for a walk in the rice terraces, which seems overcrowded, I suggest heading to Jatiluwih. While it is further away from Ubud, it is well worth doing so. Jatiluwih is supposed to be the largest and most picturesque among the rice terrace areas in Bali. Plus, it is the only one that is a UNESCO World heritage site. However, the terraces are not so steep as the ones in Tegallalang. But this and its distance from Ubud are the only drawbacks I can think of.

On the plus side, it is uncrowded, beautiful, well kept and with lots of options for walking around. You find here warungs (simple restaurants), bathrooms, and there is only the one or the other Instagram spot. It is actually some sort of a National Park. In terms of walks, there are six different tracks to undertake here ranging from 1.5 km (0.9 mi) to 5.5 km (3.4 mi).

On our visit, not all of the tracks were open. So, we did a mix. We started near Gong Jatiluwih Restaurant where we followed the orange trail to the almost end. Before coming to the exit, we took the red one back to where all the trails are together. Here, we followed the purple one to its very end. We spent about two and a half hours in total at Jatiluwih with a short break at one of its warungs.

Bali’s north: best walks

While staying in Lovina back in 2014, we did not do any walks here. And from what I learnt now, when checking out the area in terms of walks, there is not much to undertake in this regard. My advice is to head to Munduk further south in case you feel like walking Bali’s north.

Munduk (45 minutes from Lovina)

Directions & map: Outdooractive

I came across the mountain village of Munduk several times when researching Bali’s north. It is located near the so called Twin Lakes of Buyan Lake and Tramblingan Lake. I have not been here, but it seems like a good place to go if you like walking in beautiful natural surroundings. Think in this context of waterfall treasure hunting – some of Bali’s most beautiful waterfalls are located here – , or walking/hiking through the area’s rice paddies and other plantations.

There are several walking suggestions for Munduk on Outdooractive, I have listed a waterfall walk above.

Bali’s east: best walks

On our two stays near Candidasa,

my husband and I did a couple of walks. However, most of them were not self-guided but arranged by our hotel. One must-do tour in the area is the one from Kastala to Tenganan.

1. Kastala to Tenganan (25 minutes from Candidasa)

The two-hour walk (out only, you have to arrange for a transport once you have finished it) is described in my post about what to see and to do in east Bali. So, go to the correspondent section to get the details. Only so much, it is a rewarding thing to do, walking along an irrigation canal

with fantastic views of rice terraces with mount Agung as a backdrop.

The wal ends in Tenganan, a traditional village of the Bali Aga, the pre-Hindu original people of Bali.

2. Lempuyang Pura/Temple (45 minutes from Candidasa)

Directions & map: Alltrails

Although I promised to provide suggestions for easy walks, this one is a bit of an exception. It is about the Lempuyang temple trail, where 1,700 steps bring you to the topmost temple, Lempuyang Luhar (1,175 m/3,855 ft. above sea level). In total there are seven temples, from which the bottom most one is an Instagram spot (Gate of Heaven).

This temple complex is one of the holiest on the whole island.

From the first temple there is a tarmac road leading to the second temple (Telaga Mas). Here the steps start. At the first crossing, you can either turn left in the direction of the 6th temple (Pasar Agung, we got there after a one hour walk)

or right where you come first to temples No three to five (Telaga Sawang, Lempuyang Madya and Puncak Bisbis). When doing the latter loop, you can return to the beginning (left) at the next crossing (as the above mentioned trail does) or you can continue your climb to the 6th temple.

On our visit, we could not do the loop because of a land slide that had destroyed the path. Once arrived at the 6th temple, you need one hour more – according to our guide – to the topmost temple. At the summit, you seem to have great views of the surroundings, at least if the weather allows it. We did not do this (it was misty), but took the way back to the Gate of Heaven (about half an hour).

I found the trail strenuous, especially as we had to go the direct way. And the heat and the humidity did not help. Go as early in the morning as possible to make the climb more pleasant. And be careful, there seem to be no dogs around, but monkey (macaques), and they are very aggressive (at the upper part of the trail).

3. Sidemen Rice Terraces (45 minutes from Candidasa)

Directions & map: Outdooractive

If you feel like walking east Bali’s rice terraces, the ones in Sidemen are probably your best choice. I have been in the area but I did not do either the suggested walk nor any other ones. I visited the town of Sidemen because of the weaving that is traditionally done here. In any case, you are in here for “real Bali” as this region still seems largely unaffected by mass tourism.

You find in the Sidemen area not only lots of rice terraces but also other farmlands and some quaint villages. As to the walk listed, it is the only one I found on Outdooractive.

Overall/What was before and what is next?

This post was about where to go in Bali for an easy walk, and this divided by location. I covered not only the island’s popular south but also the cultural hub of Ubud and other places in central Bali. Furthermore, I made a suggestion in the north and several ones in the east.

Earlier on my blog I already reported on my findings on luxury travel in Bali after four visits in eight years This included the Island of the Gods as a travel destination, best time for visiting, how to proceed when having walks in mind and where to go for sights (and at the same time for staying in style).

There will be two more posts about Bali. The next will be about hotels that are suitable for discerning travelers, again divided by location. The last one in this mini series about the Island of the Gods is for the foodies among us. It will showcase the best (casual) fine dining you get in Ubud in central Bali.

Last date of stay: November 2022

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The post Some of the best walks/hikes in Bali first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Some of the best walks/hikes in Bali appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

In case you are a luxury travel enthusiast and about to go to Bali, I might provide some advice. Especially so, when it comes to which areas to choose for staying in style. This is also true when looking for some general information on the Island of the Gods. Think in this context of some background to Bali as a tourism destination or the best time for a trip here. If you care for doing the one or other walk on this magical island, then I might help too. Finally, being a (hardcore) foodie, I am able to provide a couple of really good addresses too, especially in Ubud!

What to expect in detail

While my main focus is about where to go for staying and dining in style in Bali, I will start my report on this island with some general observations. A view on its tourism industry makes the start, followed by some considerations as to its future. The section to follow illuminates the best time for visiting this destination. As Bali makes a good place for walking, there will be some information about how to proceed if you wish to do so. In a post to come I will suggest some Bali walks, and this divided by areas.

In a further step, I will go into which regions to choose for your stay on the island. This selection takes into account not only getting Bali’s essence but also making sure that it suits the demanding traveler. In this post, I limit myself in indicating areas with specific places that cater for luxury travel. When it comes to concrete upscale hotels, this will be the topic of a future blogpost.

In yet another post, I want to give an account of the fabulous (casual) fine dining options in Ubud, Bali’s cultural heart. When being here recently, my husband and I tried out five of the best what this town has to offer in terms of high end gastronomy.

As I can look back at four stays in Bali over the last years, I have already written quite a number of posts about this destination. I will include them in my reporting whereever it makes sense. My goal is it to complement the information already gathered on previous trips with new insights gained on my recent stay.

Bali as a travel destination

The Island of the Gods has attracted Westerners for more than 100 years. And since the 70s of the last century, it has drawn more and more visitors. The Australians were the first who came to Bali in bigger groups. That is no wonder because this island is not far away from Australia. And Bali became increasingly popular for Australian tourists in search of beach, beer and bungalow. The hot-spot in this context became Kuta, close to the international airport of Denpasar.

From 2012 to 2019 the number of foreign tourists coming to Bali has more than doubled (from 2.9 million to 6.3 million, source: Statista 2022). While the Australians remained the biggest group of tourists until 2016, this changed the following year. In 2017, the Chinese overtook them. And they predominantly came for an average three to four day stay as part of a package deal. In the years to follow, there was the pandemic which let the number of visitors slump.

Since the borders have reopened in February 2022, tourists are back. The target of 1.5 million tourists for 2022 will most probably not only be hit but surpassed (1.4 millions until end of October 2022, source: The Bali Sun). The Australians became the most frequent international visitors to Bali again. That is not surprising as the Chinese are not yet allowed to travel abroad. Will everything in Bali continue much as before once China will let its citizens leave the country again?

What is next for Bali’s tourism?

Little suggests that Bali’s tourism boom (Or better call it overtourism?) will come to an end. It is true, Bali is a traveler’s paradise. But the tourist officials have to take care that the Island of the Gods does not lose its magic. Tourism in Bali accounts for more than 60% of its economy (source: BBC News), which is not healthy.

The key would be to create a more resilient economy basing also on other sectors just as the agriculture or the art scene. As to the former, what would Bali be without its abundance of rice fields? From what I read and heard, there are lots of farmers who sell their land to investors as they do not earn enough from growing rice any more. It has to be feared that the rice terraces could turn into a stage set for the tourist industry only.

Furthermore, growth at any rate in terms of arrivals can no longer be the target for Bali’s tourism. Focus must be placed on other than continuing its unleashed mass tourism. Instead the industry has to move towards a qualitative approach. The aim here is promoting Bali as a destination for high-spending, long-stay (10 days and more) and independent travelers.

Best time to visit Bali

There are two seasons in Bali, the dry season (April to October) and the wet one (November to March). While you can expect hot temperatures throughout the year (26-29°C/79-84°F), sunnier days are more likely from April to October. Peak season on this island is in July and August, coinciding with European summer vacations. So, Bali sees most visitors in this period of time. Most travelers find that May, June and September are the best times, when the weather is favorable yet fewer crowds are around.

My husband and I stayed in Bali at various times of the year. Our first visit was in April where we encountered rainfall on two days (when being in the mountains). Our stays number two and three took place in the high season, once in August, the other time in July. Throughout our trips it was almost always dry and sunny. Our recent visit to the island was at the end of October and the beginning of November. Whereas it only rained once in the first week (the whole arrival day), there were late afternoon showers almost every day in our second week. And the rain brought quite a bunch of mosquitos too.

If I were free in my choice of revisiting Bali, I think I would opt for coming in the first half of June or the second half of September.

Walking in Bali

While you can climb volcanoes in Bali, it is not what I have in mind when it comes to walking here. Just one remark to the (serious) hiking. From what I read, Mount Batur might be suitable for the average trekker yet far from being an easy walk. As far as climbing Mount Agung is concerned, it is said to be very challenging. Only experienced trekker should dare to take on this activity.

For myself, I am more into walking or hiking for pleasure, with a low to medium exercise intensity. So, do not expect any advice regarding hardcore hiking in Bali. It is more about short fun walks here. And those are plentiful on this island, especially along its beautiful rice fields, which can be found simply everywhere.

Instead of offering concrete walking suggestions at this point (there will be in a post to come), I will inform about a great walking app. This helps you not only to find lots of walks but also the paths in the area where you are right now.

Which walking app to use for your Bali walks & hikes

On several occasions on my blog, I have already promoted the outdooractive app. It is easy to navigate, and you can also use it when you are offline. While you can check out possible trails when not being onsite, I find it easier to do so when you are already in the area, for example at your hotel. Then you open the map and list the available suggestions. In case you do not find a suitable one nearby, have a look at the paths next to you (the dotted lines). Once on your route, you can always check whether you head in the right direction (your position is marked on the map).

For walking recommendations in Bali, check out the ones in the outdooractive app. And as announced earlier, I will also suggest concrete walks by area in a future post.

Where to go in Bali for sights (& at the same time for staying in style)

When visiting Bali, you do not want to come here solely for sun, sea and sand. If you should be interested in laying on the beach and going for a swim in the ocean only, I personally could think of better places. However, it certainly can not hurt to spend a few days by the sea once you had your share of taking into the island’s sights.

In a first step, I will propose the regions in Bali to you that you should visit to get to know the “Real Bali”. As to specific upscale hotels in each area, I will go into them in a post to follow here on my blog. Yet I can assure you that there are accommodations for staying in style everywhere along the following itinerary. However, in certain parts they are not plentiful.

Bali itinerary

Bali’s south

I start with Bali’s most touristy area, the south, where you also find the best options for sun, sea and sand. In my view, it is the ideal place to end you trip as it is not only perfect for a few quiet days but also because you are close to the airport.

When it comes to where to go exactly as discerning traveler, I suggest that you should avoid Kuta at any costs. Evil tongues say that it is “the worst place on Bali”. And why is this? It is the island’s tourist mecca, especially for young backpackers and people who want to party to extremes. And it is not only crowded but also – from what I read – dirty and full of mediocre restaurants and shops.

As a traveler who likes to indulge in the finer things of life, I recommend instead one of the following spots.

Seminyak

The upscale beachfront resort of Seminyak north of Kuta and Legian outclasses its neighbors by featuring more high-end hotels and restaurants. A disadvantage here is that the traffic can get pretty crazy.

The beach here is suitable for swimming, albeit there are some waves. These may attract the beginner/intermediate surfer too.

Nusa Dua

This peninsula in southern Bali is known as a purpose-built enclave of prime hotels. While the gated government-sponsored compound of resort hotels is rather sterile, it is certainly a nice place to relax and unwind.

As to the beach here, it has white sand, and the water is great for swimming. However, at low tide you can walk as far as to the reef, which makes it rather a spot for beachcombers.

Sanur

This former fishing village on the southeastern coast has established itself as a vacation since the 1930s. And this long before the other beaches in Bali became famous. It caters mainly for travelers looking for midscale lodging. Notwithstanding that, I felt at ease here, liking the town’s laid-back vibe. At its heart, Sanur still remains the traditional Balinese village it used to be.

There are several beaches in town, from which Sanur Beach is the most central. They are all nice enough, and the water is calm.

Apart from these three seaside spots, there is one more catering for luxury travel, and this is the following one.

Jimbaran

I have not been here but from what I read it seems to be a good place for discerning travelers. It is said to have lots of options for high-end lodging and dining. The same shall be true for shopping opportunities. Plus, it is the fastest spot to reach from the airport, starting just south of the runway. And last but not least, it is supposed to be more on the relaxed side.

In terms of swimming, there are no big waves, so you do not encounter many surfers here.

After pointing out where to head for a few days in Bali by the beach, now to how to explore the original island, the “Real Bali”.

The “Real Bali”

To get the island’s real sense of place, you have to go further than its south, at least as far as Ubud. This small town in central Bali is the cultural and spiritual hotspot of the Island of the Gods. But for a complete picture, I consider it as necessary to visit other regions just as the north and the east too. This allows you to get to know an uncrowded Bali as well, because that is not the case for Ubud. As to the west, it is the least visited part of the island with no must-do sights. And there are no noteworthy options for staying in style here either.

So, where should you go in your search of Bali’s true magic? And remember, I will only indicate places that offer lodging for luxury travelers too. This excludes quite a few spots beforehand.

Ubud

No visit to Bali is complete without going to Ubud. Out of four stays on this island, my husband and I have been to Bali’s cultural center three times. And it never gets boring to do so. It is famous for its arts and crafts, and there are lots of galleries and artists’ workshops. Ubud is located among rice fields and steep ravines in the central foothills. You can reach it in about a hour by car from the airport.

There is definitely no lack of great high-end hotel in Ubud. Although some of them are not that close to Ubud’s center. If you want to dine at its excellent restaurants (a later blogpost will go into it) or even reach it by foot, I recommend not to opt for one that is more than 20 minutes or so by car away.

Bali’s north

My last overnight stay in Bali’s north dates back to 2014. But I have been told that not much has changed since then. At the time, we were in Lovina, that is a northwestern coastal town. From Ubud you need about two hours by car to reach it. Lovina is a low-key resort best known for its sunrise dolphin watching tours. Yet it features uncrowded (black sand) beaches too. And the water is calm here. And as you would not expect otherwise, hotel for staying in style here are scarce.

An alternative to Lovina might be Munduk, a relatively untouched paradise. I have not been here but read good things about it. It is circa 45 minutes inland from Lovina (one hour and 40 minutes by car from Ubud). It is a mountain village in the highlands of central Bali and supposed to be a heaven for nature lovers and waterfall chasers.

Bali’s east

When coming the first time to Bali in 2014, we  toured through the area without staying for the night. That was different in 2019 and on our recent stay, when we were here for four respectively six nights. And both times, we enjoyed very much this peaceful rural part of the island (my post about what do see and do here)! You get more than a taste of the traditional Bali here, and you are still able to escape the crowds. The best spot here to stay for the night is probably Candidasa. From the airport you get here in about one hour and 15 minutes.

For a great beach in the area, head 20 minutes by car from Candidasa towards west to Virgin Beach. Here you find a beautiful stretch of white sand, which is rare in Bali’s east. For divers, there is a good spot on the northeast coast in the old fishing villages of Amed and Tulamben (about one hour by car from Candidasa).

Overall/What is next?

This post focused on places in Bali with the “real island feeling” and where you find the necessary infrastructure for luxury travel too. Before doing so, I first went into some general information about the Islands of the Gods. This was about Bali as a tourism destination, the best travel time and how to proceed if you want to do walks here.

What to expect more in the context of Bali? After establishing where to go as demanding traveler on this island, I did two lists. On the one hand, I put together some of the best walks in all the spots I suggested (next blogpost). On the other hand, I made an overview on luxury hotels in these places (the blogpost after next). Finally, a last post about Bali will cover the best (casual) fine dining options in Bali’s spiritual heartland of Ubud.

Last date of stay: November 2022

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The post Findings on luxury travel in Bali after the 4th stay in 8 years appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

3 tours in eastern Bali

1. Trekking from Kastala to Tenganan

you walk up to a narrow water canal

that is used by farmers to irrigate their fields and follow it for about an hour, always along a rain forest. While doing so, you have beautiful views of rice terraces and other fields with mount Agung as a backdrop.

You can watch farmers working and pass a variety of tropical plantations with bananas, coconuts and much more.

Just before leaving the water canal there is a warung (restaurant) with coconuts and other drinks and food on offer. Then the descent through dense forest toward Tenganan begins,  lasting also about an hour. Along the way you pass several temples

before reaching the traditional village of the Bali Aga, the pre-Hindu original people of Bali.

Walking around in the ancient Tenganan is nice enough, although it is rather touristy with many crafts shops. At the end of the village you have to pay a fee once again. And hopefully, the car is here to bring you back to the hotel.

When staying at the Amankila Hotel, the trip takes about three hours in total (one hour driving and two hours walking). It is a great way to experience typical landscapes of Bali and getting to know an isolated, “time forgotten” village.

The next two tours are drives, one to the west of the hotel we stayed (Amankila), the other to the east. Both require about three to four hours of travel time (driving and exploring). In case you do not have that much, I will advise on an abbreviated tour at the end of my post.

2. East of Manggis

While it is certainly not worth a special trip, it makes a good photo opp when the flowers are open.

Next on the list is one of my favorite places in east Bali, Taman Ujung water palace, built by a king of Karangasem.

The palace was destroyed more than once and restored each time to its former glory. Together with several large pools and set against a backdrop of Mount Agung as well as the shoreline, it makes a feast for the eyes.

Not far away, the royal palace of the Karangasem dynasty, Puri Agung, can be visited. It is not a single building, but several palaces scattered in the vicinity of Amlapura.

A 15-minute drive away, the sister property of the Taman Ujung, a second water palace awaits you. This is about Taman Tirta Gangga.

This is another preferred place of mine! Again, it was built by a king of Karangasem. Later on, it was almost entirely destroyed by a Mount Agung eruption. Luckily, they rebuilt it. So that the maze of pools and fountains, surrounded by a lush garden, stone carvings and statues can be enjoyed to the present day.

3. West of Manggis

Further on, just off the main road east of Klungkung, is Pura Goa Lawah, the “Bat Cave Temple”. This is one of the six holiest places of worship in Bali.

This temple is set in front of a small cave inhabited by thousands of bats. Worshippers believe that they are the temple’s guardians.

The temple itself is – in my humble opinion – not overly worth seeing. And the smell coming from the bat cave is rather unpleasant Yet it is fun to watch the hanging bats.

If you are into rice fields, there is a recommended stop in Sidemen. You come to it when driving on inland towards Bali’s “mother temple” of Pura Besakih. I do not consider the rice paddies as impressive as the ones in Tegallalang north of Ubud

but it is nice to have a look at them once being in the area. Sidemen is also known as home to some of the best traditional textiles in Bali. It is worth going to a weaving room and witness this intricate craft.

Then it is time to go to the before mentioned Besakih Temple, the holiest of all in Bali. At the same time, it is the largest one with various “sub temples”.

While the complex is impressive, the place is full of dubious people who want your money. Therefore beware the scams. The entrance fee (ask your driver beforehand how much it is and count your change) includes a ride up to the temple and a local guide. But they often only grant these services, if you ask for them. It can well be the case that this visit might be devoid of any spiritual energy … I suggest that you should have a quick look around the site and not get involved in conversations with (potential) scammers.

4. Highlights of east Bali

If you are short in time and only want to see the absolute highlights of the area, I would strongly opt for the two water palaces, Taman Ujung and

Taman Tirta Gangga.

These two parklike sites, full of ponds and beautifully landscaped, are places of contemplation and serenity. This is at least the case if you visit them in the first half of the morning or towards the evening. And they are great spots for strolling around and taking in the beautiful things around you. If you want to take a swim, this is possible in Tirta Gangga where several pools are available for this purpose.

As mentioned in my second last post – and first one about Bali, at least as to our stay in 2019 –, I also went to Singapore.

And this the third time in a row. Come back later and learn about where to stay in style here when you already were at the famous Raffles Hotel (see my review) and at a Marina Bay accommodation. Of course, I will inform about recommended fine dining establishments in this metropolis, too!

Date of visit: July 2019

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On our third visit to the tropical paradise of Bali, my husband and I decided to visit the lesser travelled eastern part of the island. And we combined this with a stay at Amankila, a property of the much talked about Aman hotel group. This was an experience that we had had on our bucket list for some time. And, so much can be said, we had a great time here! Regarding all the areas we have visited in Bali so far (including hotel recommendations for those like the finer things in life), have a look at my last post. My next one will be about things to do in Bali’s east. Here is also Amankila located, the hotel I am going to review.

Before coming to the hotel where I had my first Aman stay, a few words to this extraordinary Aman brand.

Aman Resorts

Amankila within Aman

After the opening of Amanpuri in Phuket, two more hotels followed in Bali, first Amandari in Ubud (1989) and then Amankila near Manggis (1992). The latter was designed by the US born Ed Tuttle, as the first one in Phuket. He paid homage to eastern Bali’s Karangasem Palaces with a three-tier pool, inspired by terraced rice paddies.

Since it was built more than a quarter of a century ago, Amankila has been left more or less unchanged. Only some improvements took place here and there. The management really did an excellent job at maintaining the hotel in pristine condition all these years!

Location

Amanpuri is situated on the green hill of Indrakila, near Manggis, a quiet rural town. It is in the less-explored east of Bali, a 90-minute drive from the airport. The area has rather fallen off the tourist radar in recent years. This quite in contrast to the lively Ubud where you find the sister hotel. Having said that, the location is remote yet truly rural and still authentic Balinese, a world away from the tourist crowds and traffic jams of south Bali.

When leaving the main road and climbing up the hill towards the entrance, soon the sea comes into view, behind a long stretch of lush vegetation. Your eyes catch sight of the Lombok Strait, a waterway between Bali and Lombok. And you see the island of Nusa Penida in the distance. And all this this is set against the backdrop of the volcano of Mount Agung (the highest mountain in Bali), a really dreamlike spot of earth!

Ambiance

Amankila is – despite its age – still a masterpiece of timeless architecture. The layout is spectacular. When looking from the sea, the unrivaled center of attention is the pool – although only perceivable as monolithic stone block. It is surrounded by some buildings housing restaurant, bar and lobby. A series of stairs and elevated walkways wind through the grounds with lovely frangipani trees and white bougainvillea to the standalone thatched roofed villa suites.

The atmosphere throughout the resort is soothing, there is never a rush, only comfortable quietude. I even witnessed a gardener mowing the huge lawn with a sickle! When going to the pool, the beach or to the restaurant, there are rarely more than a handful of other guests. As the grounds are extensive and people are few, you are able to enjoy much privacy. It is the perfect place if you long for tranquility and exclusivity!

There are also high-quality Balinese shows by the pool at some days before dinner.

And you even have the chance to experience a traditional Melukat Ceremony, where a local priest gives you a water blessing!

Facilites/Food

The most impressive feature is by no doubts the gorgeous three-tier infinity pool. It steps down the hillside after the pattern of Bali’s cascading rice fields. I could not stop taking pictures at all times of day and night. It definitely is one of the most beautiful pool I have ever encountered!

There is another pool at the beach club that can be reached by descending a winding set of stairs.

A few steps more and you come to the private volcanic beach (blackish sand).

While it is beautiful to look at, there are two points to criticize. On the one hand, there was a lot of debris washed up on the shore (removed by staff members). On the other hand, the views across Lombok Strait are somewhat marred by numerous oil tankers and ferry boats anchored across the bay. There is an oil harbor in proximity and a ferry harbor a bit further in Padang.

and at the beach club). The main restaurant, one level below the lobby, is lovely. It is located outdoor yet roofed in a minimalist décor allowing amazing views of the sea.

The same is true for the bar, located opposite the dining-room.

As to the food, there is no buffet for breakfast, everything can be ordered from an à la carte menu. And all items we had were delicious!

For dinner, there is a choice of western and Indonesian fare as well as a daily changing set menu. My husband and I opted most times for local food

and liked what we got. However, it was not very spicy, at least at the beginning. When I casually mentioned this to an employee (not from the restaurant) towards the end of our stay, the last dinner I got was spicier; whether by chance or deliberately, I would not know …

By day, you are treated to complimentary afternoon tea with western and local pastry on the steps in front of the building.

In terms of wellness and fitness, there is a massage pavilion (a suite converted in a spa) and an outdoor fitness (located at the beach club). Yet there is no real spa or gym to speak of. From what I heard, it is planned to add a new spa facility in the time to come.

Rooms/Pricing

If you have limited mobility, the suites higher up may not suit your needs. The villa was open plan,

extremely spacious (94 sqm resp. 1,011 sqft), with a large bathroom and a generous outdoor terrace. The design aesthetic is timeless, simplicity is combined with a sense of understated luxury. When entering there is a large, very comfortable four-poster bed on one side and a daybed on the other. When walking further, there is some kind of in-between room with another daybed, a bathtub and two separate cubicles with a shower and a toilet in each. At the back of the suite there are two sinks and two closets.

Furnishings are sophisticated, with warm woods, delicate local artworks and cream travertine. All in all, ample space and a design that remains persuasive even after 27 years!

a Melukat water blessing (Hindu ceremony lasting half an hour), a private satay picnic (dinner) in the hills

and an hour-long massage for both of us. All this cost us a bit more than 800 $ per room and day!

Staff

And an other time, we were touring the eastern part of the island with an Aman driver who was a warm and knowledgeable guy. We enjoyed the trip with him very much!

Overall

If you want to escape the crowds in Bali’s south and center and seek an upscale hotel providing understated luxury, an attentive yet discrete service, a tranquil atmosphere, a real soul and the most beautiful pool imaginable,

then you cannot go wrong at Amankila. I had been awaiting my first stay at an Aman hotel with great anticipation and I was not disappointed! It was everything I had hoped for, and even sometimes more. This resort in an out-of-the-way location in east Bali is one of the first Aman properties that was opened. And it is still a timeless beauty after all those years (27 exactly!), although not featuring all the amenities of newer competing hotels.

Date of visit: July 2019

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Bali as travel destination

The impact of Chinese tourists in Bali

 

Luxury hotels by location

Ubud (southern center, stays in 2014 & 2016)

This town in the uplands is regarded as the cultural and spiritual center of the island and is home of a vast number of hotels. Back in 2014, we stayed at The Samaya Ubud Hotel offering an idyllic river location amidst the tropical jungle and upscale private pool villas.

See here my review. Two years later, we opted for the newly opened Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve property, in a similar setting by the river boasting lavish luxury villas and suites.

For more details, have a look at my corresponding post.

Lovina (northwestern beach, stay in 2014)

This is a quiet, relaxed coastal town in the lesser visited north of Bali.

Hotels to stay in style here are scarce, your best choice is probably The Damai in the hills above the seaside resort.

For a truly luxurious experience go for a pool villa. My review about our stay at this hotel can be found here.

Seminyak (southern beach, stay in 2014)

This upscale beachfront resort north of Kuta and Legian outclasses its neighbors by featuring more high-end hotels and restaurants.

Unfortunately, traffic can get pretty crazy here. A good luxury hotel to choose in this coastal town is The Samaya Seminyak Hotel with a great beachfront location and different categories of pool villas, out of which the Royal Pavilion is the signature one.

More about our experience in this accommodation is the subject of an earlier post.

Sanur (southeastern beach, stay in 2016)

Here you are in for laid-back vacations in a former fishing village, whose biggest asset is its 6 km (3.7 mile) boardwalk along the beach.

Opportunities for staying in style are not exactly plentiful, but the Maya Resort Hotel is quite a good option if you choose a Beachfront Pool Suite.

Top marks for architecture at this hotel but less so for a dignified breakfast!

East Bali (Manggis, stay in 2019)

This lesser travelled region is a good spot to escape south Bali’s crowds as it is still relatively untouched and pristine.

There are quite many things to do here, too. One of my next posts will be about recommended activities in this part of the island.

Actually, this hotel is the only one in this area that merits the distinction of being called “truly luxurious”.

Nusa Dua (southern beach, stay in 2019)

This peninsula in southern Bali is known as a purpose-built (in the 1970s) enclave of predominantly four- and five-star chain hotels. While the gated government-sponsored compound of resort hotels seems rather sterile and not really authentic, it is certainly a nice place to relax and unwind at the beach. But do not expect that you get a true sense of how this island ticks in this artificial world.

There also is not much to do in terms of activities. The beach is long and white, but at low tide you can walk to the reef, which makes this place a better spot for beachcombers than for swimmers. Nusa Dua’s best feature apart from its beach is the 5 km (3.1 mile) long boardwalk along the coast that connects all the resorts here. And if you are into shopping, there is a shopping center onsite (Bali Collection).

Regarding staying in style, a myriad of suitable hotels is available, amongst them many international upscale hotel chains. My husband and I decided to opt for a boutique hotel near the northern end of the Nua Dusa boardwalk, The Royal Santrian. While it is a bustling affair in many larger resorts in Nusa Dua, this small hotel with only 20 villas (all with their private pools) is a rather quiet and serene place.

Best accommodation options onsite are the three Royal Villas by the sea.

Overall

Bali, well known for its beautiful landscapes, historic temples and lush vegetation, draws large crowds of visitors. When we first went to Bali in 2014, 3.8 million came here. Since then, this number grew to 6.1 million (in 2018), an increase of 61%! While Australians had long been the largest group of foreign tourists going to Bali, this changed in 2017, when Chinese overtook them for the first time entailing the appearance of so-called zero-dollar tours. This had a considerable effect on Bali’s tourist landscape, and this towards mass-tourism. It is therefore imperative that the Indonesian government makes efforts to preserve Bali’s good reputation in the field of high-end and cultural tourism.

After three stays in Bali, I made a list with areas to go and hotels to stay when you fancy the finer things in life, starting with the cultural hub of Ubud, coming to more or less lively beach destinations as Seminyak, Sanur or Nusa Dua and ending with quieter coastal spots as Lovina or East Bali (Manggis).

My next post will be about our first stay at an Aman resort, considered as best hotel brand by many travelers. And this was at the Amankila Hotel in the lesser-travelled east Bali.

I will also advise later on what to do when being in this area.

Date of last visit: July 2019

 

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A perfect blend of contemporary design and local architecture:

you find yourself on the edge of a cliff looking down at a verdant valley descending 100 metres to Bali’s longest river, the Ayung River. What a sight!

An array of gracious buildings unfolds before your eyes, 35 suites nestled into the hillside and 25 pool villas down by the river. Amidst of them, there are three acres of rice paddies and a century-old Hindu Temple. That is all what remained of the 24 acres property that consisted previously of rainforest and rice fields farmed by a neighboring village. By the way, one to two villagers still work the ground of the rice terraces, now employed by the hotel.

Hotel at a glance

Following features/amenites can be found on site. In terms of restaurants, you can choose between four eateries. Sawah Terrace serves breakfast as well as local cuisine for lunch and dinner. The setting high above the river is idyllic

and the food is great, be it for breakfast

or dinner.

Kubu is the signature restaurant with exquisite, elaborate fare

and its location by the river is scenic indeed, be it because of the intimate bamboo cocoons

or the beautiful Ayung River.

There is also The Pool Bar and The Library offering small bites during daytime.

The resort’s pool with views of the rice paddies is a great place to relax

and turn left you get into the bedroom

or enter the bathroom.

Here, the eye-catching element is certainly the center tub with view, but also the sinks, which are opposite each other, are a feast for the eyes. Rain-shower and toilet are behind two large glass doors. When you leave the bathroom at the other side

You come to a spacious living/dining room,

from which you can go to the terrace once again

Overall

The heavenly high country of Ubud, no stranger to high-end tourism, is home to a resort that is second to none. The lush rolling hills of the Ayung River valley are the backdrop for Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve, an unique secluded paradise with extremely luxury accommodations but first and foremost a place where the magic of Bali has been captured in a exemplary manner.

Date of stay: September 2016

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14 restaurants for foodies

Ubud: southern center

1. Restaurant Locavore: town center (fine dining)

2. Restaurant Swept Away: at Samaya Hotel (fine dining)

As we stayed at the hotel in 2014, we dined twice at this riverside restaurant, which has a varied menu. Once we had more western styled food, the other time Indonesian fare, and found both delicious. The setting on the Ayung River is beautiful, service is very friendly and food is seriously good.

Swept Away: view of restaurant

3. Restaurant Kubu: at Mandapa Hotel, a Ritz Carlton Reserve (fine dining)

Kubu: privata bamboo cocoon seating

 

Kubu: Friandises, arranged on a branch

 

4. Restaurant Sawah Terrace: at Mandapa Hotel, a Ritz Carlton Reserve (fine dining)

Sawah Terrace: table with view of the River Ayung

Sawah Terrace: Main Red Snapper Balinese Style

5. Restaurant Sweet Orange Warung: rice fields (quick bite)

If you are strolling through Ubud’s rice fields – highly recommended –, then do not miss this lovely Indonesian restaurant in a most beautiful spot. It is not only an oasis from the hustle and bustle of Ubud’s town center, but also a place where you can have a delicious lunch (or an early dinner, they close up at 7 pm), inexpensively priced. Allow some time, service is a bit slow, but everything is prepared freshly and it is the perfect place to relax.

Sweet Orange Warung: Main Gado-Gado

 

6. Gaya Gelato: town center (ice cream shop)

UPDATE: second outlet at the centrally located Starbucks property

I am an ice cream addict and I usually check out if there is decent ice cream available everywhere I go. And imagine, I have been especially successful in Bali! Gaya Gelato produces one of the best ice creams I had in years. This is a must try if you are into ice cream. The ice cream is sold in closed containers – much better hygienically seen – and the selection is limited, also a plus point. The outlet in Ubud is a bit remotely situated. I have to admit that I did not succeed in actually going there, but I made up for this by visiting the Sanur branch on a daily basis. There are more shops throughout Bali, check it out on their homepage.

Gaya Gelato: Medium-sized cups of ice cream

 

7. Gelato Secrets: town center (ice cream shop)

Seminyak: southern beach

Sanur: southeastern beach

8. Kuu Restaurant at Maya Resort (fine dining)

While staying at the hotel a few weeks ago, we had a fabulous dinner at this contemporary Japanese restaurant. It offers izakaya style dining featuring small sampler dishes from sushi/sashimi etc. to steamed/grilled dishes. While service is friendly and helpful, the ambiance is somewhat cold.

Kuu: Starter Sushi Plate Deluxe (foreground)

9. Restaurant Soul in a Bowl (fine dining)

UPDATE: out of business

This is the only restaurant we found in Sanur meriting the label “stylish”. Food is good quality, well prepared and nicely presented. The menu is quite varied, from western food to Asian flavored dishes. The ambiance is cool, prices are a bit higher than in other restaurants in Sanur and service is friendly and prompt.

Soul in a Bowl: Main Herb Crusted Barramundi

10. Restaurant Graze at Maya Resort (casual dining)

We visited the restaurant on the occasion of our recent stay at the hotel. The restaurant caters for all needs, from all day breakfast and quick bites to more upmarket cuisine. Normally, this is not our cup of tea, but we had heard that the Australian Angus Beef Tenderloin is a highlight, which we can fully endorse. Whereas staff is eager to please you, the atmosphere is rather chilly.

Graze: Australian Thyme Crusted Angus Beef Tenderloin

 

11. Restaurant White House (casual dining)

UPDATE: out of business

This restaurant – next to Maya Resort – is a likable and unpretentious place! The menu features local favorites with a twist, which are well prepared, nicely presented and tasty. Location is nice, staff is hospitable and prices are inexpensive. As this Asian Fusion eatery is rather new, it is not that busy. Go there, it is worthwhile – although they do not serve wine …

White House: terrace seating

 

12. Gaya Gelato (ice cream shop)

13. Gelato secrets (ice cream shop)

Lovina: northwestern beach

Graze/Sanur: Chocolate Cake

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Bali is a very popular tourist destination attracting many visitors, from backpackers to luxury travelers. It has much to offer: varied landscapes with lots of rice fields, rugged coastlines and sandy beaches. Plus, it has a unique culture – its particular Hinduism – , tons of temples worth seeing, excellent international and local restaurants and last but not least the friendliest locals.

After having visited Bali twice in the last two and a half years, I would like to point out what towns to chose and what hotels to book when being a demanding traveler. One of a kind who seeks a luxury stay in beautiful surroundings.

Popular Bali destinations

Ubud: city center

Sanur: city center

Lovina: beach

5 luxury hotels in Bali

Ubud: southern center

Ubud: rice fields

1. The Samaya Ubud: nicely landscaped hotel complex & warm staff

The Samaya Ubud: Ayung Villa

2. Mandapa Hotel, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve: luxury in perfection

Mandapa: view of resort from reception area

Seminyak: southern beach

3. The Samaya Semyniak: gorgeous villa, but reservations about atmosphere and food

The Samaya Semyniak: bathroom of Royal Pavilion

Sanur: southeastern beach

Sanur: boardwalk

4. Maya Resort Hotel: unique architecture, comfortable pool suite

Maya Resort: on the hotel’s roof

Lovina: northwestern beach

5. The Damai Hotel: nice pool villa, but not satisfying in other points

The Damai: view of Pool Villa

Assessment of Bali as luxury travel destination

Bukit Peninsula: Uluwatu Temple

Looking ahead

Maya Resort, Sanur: Beachfront PoolSuite & myself

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