In my first post about an epic trip that my husband and I made in Southeast Australia and New Zealand at the end of 2018 I informed on our itinerary (Adelaide to Sydney in 15 days and New Zealand North and South Island in 15 days). Plus I let you know more about our travel style (road-trip, first-class hotels offering value for money, foodie experiences and moderate active travel). This was followed by eight more posts (Australia/New Zealand) detailing on journey highlights. And now I have a comprehensive itinerary ready complete with all the hotels, restaurants, cafes and activities of our journey. And all this comes with pictures and short descriptions!

After spending countless weeks carefully curating our itinerary before our trip and accurately covering the aftermath of our journey, I am able to produce two Google Maps, one for Australia and one for New Zealand, see here the ones where only the stops are marked.

 

Date of visit: November 2018

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When my husband and I travel the world, exploring the local culinary scene is always on our agenda. Our month-long journey in Oceania (see outline) was no exception to that. And if I had to name my two favorite high-end restaurants, I do not have to think long. Restaurant LuMi in Sydney and Restaurant Kazuya in Auckland are both places where culinary magic is performed. While LuMi boasts modern Italian food with a Japanese twist, Kazuya captivates with its European Japanese fusion cuisine.

In the following I will go into my dining experiences at both restaurants, starting with the one at LuMi for the simple reason that our trip began in Australia and ended in New Zealand. It has nothing to do with my preferences, I cannot possibly say which one I loved more, they were both stellar!

LuMi Bar & Dining, Sydney/Australia (2 hats)

Before opening his own restaurant on Sydney Harbor, he ticked off time in famous kitchens at Noma in Copenhagen, at Attica in Melbourne and at Ryugin in Tokyo after having started his career in Rome/Italy. Working in Japan seemed to make a big impression on him as he chose to fuse his Italian origins with this far eastern cuisine.

If you could wish for a preferred location in Sydney, then it would be this one, on the wharf at Pyrmont.

The glass-fronted restaurant in a modern stand-alone building by the water offers an enchanting view of harbor and city lights.

Lumi means small lights in Italian and there are many of them hanging from the restaurant’s ceiling and contributing to a much-needed contrast to the heavy use of steel throughout the restaurant. There is a large open kitchen that occupies the entire length of the restaurant and lets the guests participate in the happenings there. It is a modern dining-spot with a cool vibe.

Staff is aligned with the atmosphere that prevails in this lively open space, smooth yet energetic. A nice touch was it, that sometimes the chef or another cook delivered a dish to the table. Even when the power went out in the whole neighborhood for about twenty minutes, they continued acting with confidence, admirably!

On offer at LuMi is contemporary Italian food with a Japanese twist, and this only on the basis of tasting menus. There are three of them and it depends on the day of the week and the time of day which one(s) you can resp. must choose (no choice on Saturday for dinner). The price range is from 125 AUD (89 USD) to 185 AUD (131 USD). While eating here is quite an expensive affair, it is totally worth it, be it for the cuisine’s creativity, the exciting dining experience and the staff’s amiability.

My husband and I dined at LuMi on a Sunday evening, so we had the choice between two menus, the more comprehensive Chef’s Menu or the smaller Experience. We went for the latter as we ate out during all the nights of our month-long trip through Australia and New Zealand (here our outline).

If I count in all the snacks as one course and the petit fours as another, then we had a nine-course menu.

The dinner started furiously with a series of snacks, tuna tartare in a sweet potato cone, a Jerusalem artichoke crisp with Swiss brown mushrooms; Italian gunkan, a sushi boat with an Italian twist consisting of sea urchin, nori and buffalo cheese; chawanmushi, a Japanese egg custard with a Parma ham basis, and of course the signature rye and spelt brioche with koji (fermented) butter.

Each of the snacks provided plenty excitement to our taste buds and made us gasp at the ingenuity of the chef.

Next was a vegetable dish with asparagus, smoked macadamia chunks and macadamia milk,

followed by a snapper ceviche

and ravioli filled with pork, fennel and candied orange.

All three courses opened up new worlds of taste for us, never before had we eaten anything like this!

We proceeded with hapuka, a moist, many-layered local fish, in cream and curled in pickled daikon radish

before coming to the final savory course, smoked quail, serving up different parts of the bird, including the quail foot, and combined with beetroot.

LuMi did not disappoint in the department of desserts, either … First was sudachi ice cream, made from the Japanese sudachi citrus fruit, coming out with an awesome caramelized white chocolate crisp and finalized with keffir lime dust, what a wonderful combination!

Second was a meringue with liquorice flavor paired with coconut ice cream and a passionfruit sauce, which worked astonishingly well, although I am not a liquorice lover.

The ingenious meal came to an end with a frangipane tart in combination with pineapple and toasted kombu (seaweed based) cream for the two of us.

This meal makes it into the category “most memorable dinners ever”. Chef Federico Zanellato marries Italian and Japanese cuisine in a way that something truly extraordinary comes out of it. The result may be adventurous every now and then yet harmonious most of time.

Kazuya Restaurant, Auckland/New Zealand (3 hats)

Kazuya Yamauchi is, as you could guess from his name, Japanese, and started his culinary career in a high-end Italian restaurant in Tokyo. While coming in contact with other European cuisines and techniques at the time, he implemented them in his style of cooking without neglecting the culinary traditions of his home country. After moving to Auckland, he worked at two Asian fusion restaurants before opening his own place in 2012.

Location/Ambiance

Once inside, everything changed! The room is small – it seats probably less than 30 diners – and is rather dark, the lighting is dim, and the interiors are kept in chocolate and cream shades. You are cocooned in generously proportioned leather booths, which give quite a lot of privacy. The décor is inspired by Japanese traditionalism yet with many modern touches.

Staff was earnest yet gracious. Every course was presented with an explanation and delivered to our table white-gloved. The atmosphere was serene, almost solemn, which suited the place just right. A really nice touch was the fact that the chef said goodbye to us at the door when we left.

With regard to pricing, it is for sure one of the best value high end degustation in town! The full degustation with ten courses amounts to 165 NZD (113 USD), seven to 125 NZD (86 USD) and five to 100 NZD (69 USD).

My husband and I opted for the “golden middle”, i.e. seven courses.

First and last impressions matter most, and everything was done just perfect in this respect, a pre-dinner ball of soup which exploded when we bit and a basket with delicious European style bread at the beginning as well as a foamy-fruity pre-dessert and some sweet treats to round up the feast!

In between, a greatest-hit album of dishes, starting with spanner crab – a local species –, ratatouille, egg yolk confit, spiced cream and almond, what a harmonious mélange, my husband and I were deeply impressed!

Next was a variation of scallop, cuttlefish, daikon radish, seasoned with yuzu citrus and mustard.

We proceeded with a magnificent mix of Italian, local and Japanese food, pasta with whitebait – immature fry of fish, often seen in Oceania –, soy milk broth, spinach and chrysanthemum.

A cult dish at Kazuya is “Texture”, over 30 textured seasonal vegetables combined with prosciutto, showing the chef’s great skill of texture and flavor.

The fish was snapper paired with cauliflower, lemon, bottarga (Mediterranean caviar), beurre blanc and nori,

the meat was black angus beef in combination with taro (starchy root), asparagus, purple kumara (sweet potato), mushroom and jus,

both well composed and immaculately done.

The final course featured a cotton cheesecake (the Japanese counterpart, which is lighter and with a fluffy texture) in liaison with strawberry, white bean cream, mochi (sweet Japanese rice cake) and hazelnuts, what a great end to a brilliant meal!

Overall

What sets Kazuya Yamauchi apart from other fusion style chefs is his ability to create dishes that are extremely well-balanced yet makes you marvel at his creative genius. His cuisine combines European recipes with modernist techniques and exacting Japanese presentation, and this in a very undercover location and at reasonable prices. A visit here is an absolute must for every fine dining lover going to Auckland!

Date of visit: November 2018

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The post 2 gourmet hotspots in Oceania first appeared on Swiss Traveler

There is no shortage of stunning nature in southeastern Australia and New Zealand, this much can be said for sure! When my husband and I toured this area on our month-long journey (see outline), we were awestruck by so much natural beauty! Two of our favorite national parks were Ben Boyd National Park (about half way between Melbourne and Sydney) and Abel Tasman National Park (at the north end of the New Zealand’s South Island). While the former is best explored by foot, you might profit most from the latter by doing this (mostly) on the water.

General

You might wonder why I say these two national parks in one breath. This is out of pure coincidence as Ben Boyd National Park and Abel Tasman National Park do not have much in common with the exception of having the chance of immersing in gorgeous nature and a coastline location. While the first mentioned national park is not amongst the best known, the second one ranks among the must-do activities when visiting the area.

As we did have quite a rushed travel schedule, we only had limited time available to explore these sites, a half day for Ben Boyd National Park

and a full day for Abel Tasman National Park.

Nevertheless enough to get an idea of both places.

Ben Boyd National Park

It is a ruggedly beautiful stretch of coast with rocky headlands, heathland and pristine beaches, and it is completely different from the rest of the coastline in the area. This is due to its impressive rock formations and radiantly colored stone set in a stunning coastal landscape.

The national park is situated on the New South Wales south coast near the town of Eden and is 10,500 hectares (26,000 acres) in size. It is separated into two parts, split by Twofold Bay, with a small section in the north and a larger one in the south. We only went to the northern part at the entry point of Haycock Road.

Walk from Haycock Point to Barmouth Beach and back

At the northern tip of the park, Haycock Point

is the starting point for a great walk to Barmouth Beach. It is easy to moderate with a few stairs and gentle hills and is 3 km one-way (1.9 miles). You need about two and a half hours to complete this walk.

The first part leads along a green flat plateau before coming to a coastal forest where you have views of blood-red and other colored rocks again and again.

Before reaching the goal of the walk, you catch sight of the opposite Merimbula Beach.

Some more steps up and down until you come to wooden stairs leading down to the idyllic Barmouth Beach. What a great place to lay your bath towel!

After a short break, you start your way back to Haycock Point, in awe again of the red-colored rocky coastline. Here, take a look at the seemingly endless beach towards south

before returning to your car and head for another – this time very short – walk, the Pinnacles Loop.

The Pinnacles Loop Walk

The walk from the carpark is on a loop track and takes less than 30 minutes to fulfill. There are two lookout points along the way to view the Pinnacles, one of the highlights in the park. These white sand cliffs are capped with a red gravel clay which has eroded over the years.

Where to stay and eat in style near Ben Boyd National Park

Finally, I do not want to withhold from giving advice where to stay and where to eat in style when visiting the Ben Boyd National Park. I am afraid there is not that much on offer for discerning travelers in the area. Nevertheless, there is the one or the other good establishment.

A great place to stay in style is Balconies Dolphincove Bed & Breakfast, located in Tura Beach, north of Merimbula in a quiet residential area. There are three nicely furnished, spacious rooms

overlooking landscaped gardens (where kangaroos are regular visitors, feeding on the lawn),

the outdoor pool

and native bushland beyond. A tasty breakfast is served in your own room.

If you like tapas, then Ritzy Wine & Tapas Bar is the place for you with a good range of scrumptious dishes to share and a casual atmosphere. Great choices are the Asian style oysters

and scallops.

Abel Tasman National Park

Abel Tasman National Park is renowned for its golden beaches, sculpted granite cliffs and its popular coastal track. Another asset is its reliable weather, it sits atop the sunniest region of the country.

It is located on the northern coastline of New Zealand’s South Island. With an area of 23,700 hectares (58,600 acres) it is bigger than the before mentioned sibling in Australia but the country’s smallest national park.

When you are short on time – as we were – when exploring the park, a combination boat trip along the coast with short land excursions and walking a section of the Abel Tasman track might be the best thing to do here.

For this purpose, we had opted for doing the “Golden Future Tour” by “Abel Tasman Eco Tours”, which was just perfect for spending a day here.

Tour description “Golden Future Tour”

After boarding the vessel “Zeehaen” in Marahau, the southern entrance of Abel Tasman National Park, we got up close with the amazing coastline including outlying islands. Highlights included marveling at impressive granite rock formations just as Split Apple Rock

and observing wildlife.

Then it was time to go on land for the first time at Te Pukatea Bay where Stu, our friendly and competent guide, laid out a picnic of coffee and tea with two kinds of tasty cake,

followed by an (optional) instructive nature walk to witness forest ecology, botany, predator traps and incredible views.

Back in the boat again, there is some more exploring the coastline before stopping again for having lunch and another short nature walk at Mosquito Bay.

On the return to Marahau, there was the opportunity to be dropped off at Apple Tree Bay for a walk back to Abel Tasman National Park’s south entrance (one and a half hour). Of course, my husband and I took this chance and walked back to the starting point while viewing the magical coastline and taking in the wonderful scenery once again.

Where to stay and eat in style near Abel Tasman National Park

As before in the area of Ben Boyd National Park in Australia, there is a shortage of adequate hotels and restaurants for demanding travelers. Having said that, there is a truly luxurious hotel onsite, Split Apple Retreat. However, my husband and I had decided that it is not suitable for our case as we had little time left for spending time here on the one hand and as it seemed a bit steep on the other hand. There are some upscale lodging opportunities in Nelson, the only bigger town in the area, an hour from Marahau. But if you want to stay in style close to the park’s southern entrance, the nearest to this might be Split Apple Lodge.

This accommodation, located in the middle between Marahau and Kaiteriteri, offers breathtaking views over the Tasman Bay.

It features a spacious communal deck and a large guest lounge. A serviced breakfast buffet

and afternoon snacks are included, there is also the opportunity to use the kitchen for preparing your own dinner. The rooms (six rooms and a self-contained apartment) are rather small and sparsely furnished in a contemporary way.

They have a somewhat basic bathroom

and – if you are in a Sea View Room – a private balcony.

In terms of dining, your best choice in my view is Hooked on Marahau, in Marahau, serving delicious fish

and other dishes in relaxed atmosphere. Another recommended place to go is The Views, A vegetarian restaurant, in Kaiteriteri, offering a variety of well-made meatless dishes

including pizzas in a rather non-descript hotel ambiance.

Overall

If you look for Oceania national parks in a splendid coastal location offering a myriad of opportunities to enjoy wonderful nature, then you cannot go wrong with Ben Boyd National Park in southeastern Australia and Tasman Abel National Park in the north of New Zealand’s South Island. While the former is ideally explored on foot, it is recommended doing this with latter at least partly on the water.

When my husband and I look for hotels in metropolises, we often opt for such ones that are a bit different from your traditional, old world property. We like staying at luxury boutique accommodations marrying comfort with design. On our month-long Australia and Zealand trip (see outline) we were lucky enough to come across a hotel brand of our liking, the QT Hotels & Resorts. In less than ten years, they have become Australia’s hippest hotel group with nine properties in their home country and in New Zealand. There was no question about it, we did not ponder long but booked two days each at their Sydney and Melbourne branches!

Design hotel groups in general

QT Hotels go one step further than the above-mentioned pioneer of creating a hotel as a neighborhood hotspot, the Firmdale Hotels. They are a total work of art, from location to design, amenities and even to the staff’s uniforms. At both the Sydney and Melbourne branches, guests are greeted at the front door by bewigged and costumed artsy employees. And food and beverage staff have both daytime and nighttime clothes to reflect the different crowd they interact with.

Once inside the hotels, there are plenty of surprises! When exiting the elevator in Melbourne, it may throw a cheeky comment at you. Or in Sydney, when stepping in your room, you might find digital art playing on your television.

It is all about small things that makes you smile or moves you in another positive way.

The QT hotel group opened its first hotel in 2011 and has extended its portfolio to nine properties in Australia and New Zealand. In 2020, the tenth location will be opened in Auckland. All the hotels mix stylish interiors with a playful approach and target guests who are not only into sightseeing but also looking for feeling the vibe of a city.

But this luxury boutique accommodation chain has more in mind than impressing guests with striking design and quirky details. They are well capable of delivering on the basics just as well-appointed guest rooms, friendly and helpful service and good restaurants, and all this at prices I find completely okay.

Now some details on the two QT properties I stayed at in Sydney and Melbourne.

QT Melbourne

Speaking of restaurant, it is hip and stylish,

but I was a bit underwhelmed when it comes to breakfast. You had to help yourself to coffee and tea from thermos bottles and food was only decent. Neither my Smashed Avocado

nor my Bircher Muesli

were that convincing. That said, this was the only downside of our otherwise pleasant stay!

and a generous sitting area.

Its understated chic bathroom having a walk-in shower and a separate toilet was a bit on the small side.

Overall

No trip to the southeast of Australia is complete without cruising the Great Ocean Road, one of the world’s most scenic coastal drives! Of course, my husband and I did not miss this beautiful stretch of road on our one-month long Australia and New Zealand journey (see our outline here), although we did not have the time to do the whole route. Of course, Port Campbell National Park, home of the glorious sights as the Twelve Apostles or the London Bridge, was on our schedule before heading to Port Fairy to spend the night in one of the very few accommodations to stay in style in the area. We also drove another part of the Great Ocean Road the following day when heading to Melbourne.

The Great Ocean Road starts in Torquay, a bit more than an hour southwest of Melbourne, and ends in Allansford, near Warrnambool. It is 243 kilometers (151 miles) long, listed as Australian National Heritage and gives a myriad of opportunities for sweeping ocean views.

Port Campbell National Park

Next is the most popular sight, Twelve Apostles, limestone rock-stacks formed by erosion, though only seven of them are left.

Not far away, Loch Ard Gorge, a spectacular beach inside an impressive gorge, can be viewed.

After passing the small coastal town of Port Campbell it is the turn to The Arch,

showing the middle stage of an island transitioning from tunnel, to arch and will ultimately collapse into two rock stacks. Next on the list is another highlight, London Bridge,

a former double arch before the inner arch collapsed in 1989 leaving two tourists stranded on the outer side. The course finishes with The Grotto,

a cave and sinkhole where you can view rock pools carved out in the jagged edged limestone.

On the same day, my husband and I followed the Great Ocean Road in the northern direction – now mostly away from the coast – to the very end in Allansford and further to our hotel in Port Fairy without stopping on the route any more as we planned to explore the home town of our night’s lodging, more on this later on …

While you have superb coastal views of the surf breaking into the mouth of the Saint George River and of the Great Ocean Road on the upper platform,

there are equally breathtaking views of the Saint George River winding itself into the valley and of mountainous peaks on the lower one.

While following the Great Ocean Road towards south, we made two other stops at Point Addis Marine National Park (Point Addis

and Southside),

part of the Great Otway National Park stretching form Princetown (from where we started exploring Port Campbell National Park the day before) to Torquay. Unfortunately, we did not have time to do this part of the Great Ocean Road, but I am sure it is also worth visiting with rugged coastlines and sandy beaches as well as rainforests and streams.

After pointing out some highlights on the Great Ocean Road, I will go into a truly awesome place to stay in style when being in the area.

I am afraid that there is not much on offer when it comes to luxury accommodations along the Great Ocean Road. I was so underwhelmed by the lack of lodging opportunities for discerning travelers, that I was even ready to do a detour of almost four hours to be able to stay in style when doing one of the world’s most beautiful drives, although having only one night to spend in the area! That said, it was worthwhile doing as it turned out to be one of the best stays of our Australia trip.

The Drift House, Port Fairy

The original double story Victorian bluestone house and the neighboring single-story Edwardian villa are complemented by a number of modern extensions. A Melbourne architect studio married old and new in a stylish and original way, a gem of modern design in a heritage context!

There are six suites, all exquisitely designed and cutting edge modern, each with its own spirit. We had Suite #2, in the original property (Victorian bluestone house), on the first floor with a lovely balcony running the length of the house with views to the Moyne River through the town’s heritage-listed Norfolk pines.

Upon entering, you are faced with an abstract expressionist floor-to-ceiling mural (by Colleen, the owner) wrapped around a bathroom pod separating the living from the sleeping room.

Other features just as a sleek kitchen, a fireplace,

high-end textiles and a comfortable bed make the picture of a perfect accommodation for demanding travelers complete. The bathroom is modern with a sizable shower but otherwise – the only (very) minor drawback – a bit on the small side.

All interior spaces and compact grounds are beautifully maintained. You find here a small, inviting outdoor pool,

bicycles to take and a brand new, tastefully decorated breakfast cafe

– we were lucky enough to try out the latter on its first day of service! A continental breakfast is served here, not your usual one but a special treat. There is a buffet with artisan, locally sourced and mostly organic products: great sourdough breads, a selection of meat, cheese, pickles and fruits, yoghurt and even a breakfast cake! Fabulous, one of the best continental breakfast I ever had!

And the owners, Colleen Guiney – I already mentioned her, she is an artist and the creator of most artworks you encounter on the property – and John Watkinson, they are the most perfect hosts, with an intuitive and a heartfelt attitude!

My husband and I immensely liked our stay at The Drift House and would have loved to stay longer, also especially in view of the fact that Port Fairy is not only a jewel but there is a myriad of things to do here!

Port Fairy insights

And Port Fairy is also known for its year-round festivals, from which the folk festival is the most popular one.

When it comes to great dining – another field I attach great importance to –, you are spoilt for choice in Port Fairy. Colleen and John from the Drift House put together a list with their top picks, from which we chose Conlan’s Wine Bar & Restaurant after double checking it on TripAdvisor. This relaxed dining spot is under the lead of Matthew Dempsey, a multi award winning chef owning other highly regarded restaurants in the area, and pours local (and other) wine along creative, seasonal dishes of various sizes. We liked the buzzing atmosphere

and the well-made modern food

here in spite of some (minor) imperfections.Other places had caught my interest in the run-up of our Australia trip that might be worth visiting – note that I did not try them out –, Coffin Sally for best pizza and cozy bar atmosphere as well as Bank St + Co for quick bites.

When doing one of the world’s best drives, the Great Ocean Road, and appreciating the finer things in life, then Port Fairy, is a must-do stop! This historic fishing town, nestled at the very end the mentioned drive, has not only expansive beaches and lots of beautiful 19^thcentury architecture, but also features one the best boutique accommodations in Victoria, The Drift House. This exquisite high-quality property offers six immaculately designed suites within easy walking distance to everything. And you are treated to a fantastic continental breakfast in the newly built breakfast/lounge area.

Hands down, our stay at this luxury boutique hotel in combination with its location in a lovely seaside town proved to be one of our most memorable ones on our Australia journey. I only wished we had had more than one night here because that is definitely not enough to make full use of Port Fairy’s attractions.

Date of stay: November 2018

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My husband and I made on our one-month-long Australia/New Zealand trip (see here outline) also a two-day stop in the central Grampians, a series of rugged sandstone mountain ranges and forests rich in wildlife. As one of Victoria’s most popular vacation destinations it offers a great choice of walking tracks to enjoy the beautiful nature here and many lookouts for panoramic views of the area. While sights here are numerous, the same cannot be said when it comes to hotels for demanding travelers. Fortunately, I found a solution to this “problem”, which I will go into later on. But first I will tell you a few facts about the Grampians in general and what activities you can expect to do here.

General

The Grampians can be reached by car from Adelaide in about five and a half hours and from Melbourne in a drive of approx. three hours. This National Park, known for its outstanding natural beauty, is huge. It is divided in several parts. While we chose the central Grampians for our two days here – also known as the Wonderland Range –, you could also head to the northern or the southern Grampians. The Wonderland, the heart of this National Park, overlooks the township of Halls Gap – where we stayed – and Fyans Valley.

I cannot judge how it is to travel from Melbourne as we came from Adelaide and headed afterwards to the coast to do the Great Ocean Road, but that much can be said, the drive from Adelaide to Halls Gap was one the longest and by no doubt the most boring of our trip! There is not much to see but grazing and farming land and the only break on the horizon being intermittent wheat silos. But suddenly, rising abruptly from the surrounding Western Plains, the Grampians appear, and you are in a completely different, breathtakingly beautiful world!

What to do (the perfect one-day itinerary)

As mentioned at the beginning, here it is all about walking/hiking and visiting various lookouts to marvel at the stunning scenery. What follows, is – as I think – the ideal one-day itinerary to make the most of your stay here when taking the one or the other (short) hike is your thing. You need a car to do these activities as short drives are necessary to reach somes places of interest. I also give indications on times needed to do the hikes, please note here that my husband and I are quite fit hikers meaning we walk at a rather fast pace. Allow more time if you are more into leisurely strolls.

Pinnacle walk (from Wonderland Carpark)

The Pinnacle is the most known peak in the area and allows you – when you reached it – magnificent views of Hall Gap and the surrounding peaks.

And the best is that already the walk itself gives you the chance to enjoy the marvelous nature – if you are not too busy being out of breath of course because the walk from the Wonderland Carpark is quite a strenuous one (distance 5.5 km/3.4 miles return, elevation change 280 meters/917 feet). You pass the “Grand Canyon”, rocky woodland, Bridal Veil Falls and Silent Street

until you reach the awe-inspiring Pinnacle Lookout. It took my husband and me about one and a half hour to do this walk.

It is also possible to make the walk to the Pinnacle easier by driving up to the Sundial Carpark (distance 4.2 km/2.6 miles return, elevation change 110 meters/361 feet).

The Balconies Lookout (from Reed Lookout Carpark)

Back at the Wonderland Carpark drive via Mount Victoria Road to the Reed Lookout Carpark and do the easy walk to The Balconies Lookout to enjoy panoramic views over the Victoria Valley.

The trail climbs gently through rock outcrops and a stringybark forest and requires a walk of about 35 minutes (distance 2 km/1.2 miles return, elevation chance 50 meters/164 feet).

Boroka Lookout

Another short drive brings you via Mount Difficult Road to Boroka Lookout. The walk from the carpark is short and suitable for people with limited mobility. You have spectucalar views of the Wonderland and Mount William Ranges as well as of Fyans Valley and Lake Bellfied.

Lakeview Loop (from Sundial Carpark)

Drive via Silverband Road to the already mentioned Sundial Carpark (easier climb up to the Pinnacle) and do another easy walk (distance 1.8 km/1.1 miles, elevation change 20 meters/66 feet) to a point overlooking Lake Bellfield and the Mount William Range. When you have reached the descent, look left and you can also see the Pinnacle, the lookout which you climbed before.

Return to the carpark and view the beautiful wildflower when doing the walk in spring as we did (time needed about 25 minutes).

Lake Bellfield

Drive further along Silverband Road (one-way minor sealed road). If you have time left and would enjoy another short walk, stop at Silverband Falls Carpark. There is another easy walk to a waterfall that disappears here. We did not do this and drove on to the lake where we had some leisure time at the water.

Where to stay in style in Halls Gap

As mentioned at the beginning, there are neither luxury hotels nor B&B’s for discerning clients in Halls Gap, the gateway to the Grampians, so I had to try hard to find lodging suitable to our needs. Finally, I was lucky enough to come upon Aspect Villas, two self-contained apartments. We picked “Bushland”,

in my view the nicer located one, and loved our stay here! The position is great, just a short walk into the village, and the villas have a lovely secluded feel. It is a modern open plan living area,

equipped with a large spa tub, a fireplace, a comfy bed,

a large bathroom with washer/dryer

and an outdoor patio with a grill. The kitchen is stocked with toast bread, yogurt, granola, juice, local fudge and tea/coffee, but we did not make use of it as we headed to town to have breakfast there (see my tip where to go later on). But the best part of the stay is the wildlife you can view from the villa,

it is like being in an animal sanctuary with numerous close-up sights of kangaroo, wallabies, deer and flocks of white birds on the villa property!

 

Where to eat in Halls Gap

There is not only a shortage of upscale accommodation opportunities in Halls Gap but also – no surprise – of restaurants with seriously good food! I can only think of one establishment I can recommend without reservation, and this is “only” a cafe meaning it closes at 4:00 PM on weekdays and 5:00 PM on weekends! Thus, not the spot to have dinner, so we had only breakfast as well as tea/coffee and cake here …  But we enjoyed our meals very much although it was quite busy in the morning and there was quite a long wait to get served. The place is called Livefast Lifestyle Cafe

and is located in some kind of a small mall in the town center. We had a fabulous teatime here and one of the best breakfasts of our whole trip, smashed avocado (seeded sourdough, goat’s cheese, lemon, dukkah, beetroot trio-pate, greens and crisps)

and sticky date pancakes (butterscotch sauce, warm poached apple, toasted walnuts, natural yoghurt).

And the fresh juice and the coffee were divine!

When it comes to dinner, I suggest that you cook in your villa or throw a steak on the grill. We did not to do this because we were too comfortable, but I wish we had done it! I might have a tip for you when staying in Halls Gap on a Friday, Deirdre’s, tucked away at the foot of the Grampians in Laharum Grove, offering innovative, creative food, but it is quite a stretch to drive (about ¾ hour). I have not been there dreading the long journey on partly unsealed roads. Have you been there by any chance? Let me know how it was, please.

Overall

The Grampians, not a long drive from Melbourne and a bit a longer one from Adelaide, feature a series of stunning sandstone mountain ranges and is a great place to spend some days in nature.

The most popular activity here is walking, there is a wide choice of trails for all abilities. I especially recommend walking to The Pinnacle Lookout, but there is also a lot to do for non-walkers such as numerous spectacular lookouts reachable by car.

When looking for luxury accommodation and quality food in this nature reserve, there is unfortunately not much on offer. But there is some hope, stay at the Aspect Villas,

have breakfast and lunch at Livefast Lifestyle Cafe

and give maybe Restaurant Deirdre’s a try!

Date of stay: November 2018

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Kangaroo Island near Adelaide in the southeast of Australia is known for its abundant wildlife, sea lions, fur seals, koalas and – of course –, kangaroos in their natural environment. Due to its label as “zoo without fences” it is also marketed as Australia’s answer to the Galapagos. This is an exaggeration – as I can confirm at first hand, I visited the Galapagos last year – but nonetheless it is a great place to visit to undertake diverse nature experiences. There are very good chances for wildlife encounters but also beautiful wild and rugged landscapes for exploration.

Once arrived on the island, it is super-easy to drive here but do not underestimate travel distances. It is a rather small place but nevertheless some time is needed to reach certain spots as there are not always sealed roads. And only drive on daytime as the danger of hitting wildlife during night is too big!

We very much liked being here because of Kangaroo Island’s breathtaking scenery, its pleasant Mediterranean climate and the relaxed pace we experienced throughout the island. When we were here end of October it was not busy. We encountered some travelers on certain hot-spots as the Flinders Chase National Park but otherwise it was tranquil. The range of possible activities is broad, there is a variety of natural attractions – as mentioned earlier – but also others just as farm tours, think of wineries, oyster farming, eucalyptus oil distilling, honey farming and more. And locals are amiable, sociable and laidback!

 

he is responsible for beverages, travel tips and other guest relation matters. They made us feel like the most important people in the world and we were pampered throughout our visit. Not only they provided us with the best food and helpful advice, but they entertained us – Charmaine is a great conversationalist – and this without being intrusive at all. We had such a good time here! But one thing after the other …

The homestead where the couple lives and hosts guests is remotely located near the coast and looks like some kind of a Tuscan villa.

 

They bought it years ago when it was in a not so good condition and while Paul renovated it, Charmaine was predominately in Adelaide having her own catering service. Three and a half years ago, she permanently moved back to Kangaroo Island – her home area – and the success story of this B&B with half-board began.

There are three rooms at Molly’s Run – named after Molly, the boxer dog – all comfortable and well-appointed. While my husband and I stayed at the newer courtyard room,

we had also a look at the upstairs room

with a balcony overlooking the sea, and both are really nice.

And the food here is simply amazing, Charmaine is a fantastic cook! We were treated to delicious home-cooked meals second to none, here an account of the sheer endless array of delicacies …

The first night – there was another couple from England – we were served local abalone with mushrooms, vegetables and green tea noodles,

followed by local lamb with mint sauce

and a variety of lip-smacking side dishes: beets, squash, and labneh and – separately – gratinated fennel,

cauliflower with dukkah,

potato gratin and beans with macadamia nuts.

For dessert we got Eton Mess.

The second night, there were only the two of us and the hosts joined us for the main course, being local snapper with olives

accompanied again by several side dishes: roasted potatoes, baked carrots, kale slaw salad,

broccolini Asian style and green salad with peppers.

As a starter we had arancini with leaf-pear salad

and the sweet dish was panna cotta with a strawberry coulis.

And after dark Paul took us on a night drive to see kangaroos, wallabies and possums, what a great experience – you cannot see the same on daytime!

Breakfast was also a feast: home-made granola, yoghurt, sliced fruits, a selection of home-made jams and spreads, toast, freshly baked muffins, banana pancakes,

Charmaine’s take of eggs benedict with salmon and spinach (Eggs Atlanta).

What to do

and fur seals. The park is also home to two impressive landmarks, Admirals Arch, a magnificent archway sculpted by wind and sea,

and Remarkable Rocks, bizarre granite boulders.

There is also a diverse range of walking trails worthwhile doing. We did the Platypus Waterhole walk. While we did not catch sight of this shy animal, we very much enjoyed the unspoiled natural beauty.

A good spot to lay your beach towel is Stokes Bay,

a secluded beach on the serene north coast of the island not far from our B&B, Molly’s Run. It is a truly idyllic spot, protected from the surf by a giant pool surrounded by rocks. We just walked along the beach to take in the beautiful natural scenery.

Other attractions – which we unfortunately did not have the time to do – include Kelly Hill Caves, an underground maze, Seal Bay Conservation Park, where you find a colony of sea lions, or hiking parts of the Kangaroo Island Wilderness Trail, a five-day/four-night bushwalk.

My husband and I were sad that we had to leave this great place after being here just under three days. We were so much in favor of the wilderness, wildlife and the rural pace of life here. And we were thrilled about our accommodation,

the heartfelt hospitality and the amazing food encountered at Molly’s Run! The hosts, Charmaine and Paul, made our stay on Kangaroo Island a stand out part of our tour in Australia and New Zealand!

Date of stay: October 2018

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Port Campbell National Park, Australia

 

Another problem popped up from time to time, and this was the impossibility to find an adequate accommodation in some places. In certain areas, you could not find a hotel for demanding travelers as there were only modest lodging opportunities. In this case, we got around it by booking bed and breakfast accommodations or self-contained apartments in some cases (especially in Australia).

Self-Contained Apartment in the Grampians National Park, Australia

As mentioned earlier, I came across ultra-luxury hotels once in a while. When I speak of properties like these, I mean those charging 1,500 US$ and more per night (including dinner and sometimes also pre-dinner drinks and other services). As I consider such a pricing as inflated, I refrained from booking such hotels, with one exception. In the most southern point that we reached in New Zealand, I was at a total loss on a suitable lodging so that we decided to stay at such a place. It was however a lodge that belonged to the lowest price class of the affiliated hotel chain (900 US$). While we enjoyed our stay (beautiful property with great views and tasty food), we thought that we definitely paid about 200 US$ too much.

Ultra-Luxury Hotel in the South West of New Zealand’s South Island

Day Trip to Milford Sound, New Zealand’s South Island

 

As you already learned in the last chapter, we had a rather densely packed program for our Oceania journey. There were more than 6,000 kilometers (about 4,000 miles) to drive and this with a speed limit of 100 or 110 kilometers (62 or 68 miles) per hour, few freeways and often winding roads! In the following you find our (ambitious) itinerary:

At the end of my reporting on this unique journey I will make two Google Maps – one for Australia and one for New Zealand – with all the accommodations we stayed at, the restaurants we dined, the cafes we went and the activities we did, and this with my photos and comments. Come back later, check out the announced blogposts on highlights of our epic trip and my detailed travel Google Maps.

Date of stay: November 2018

Auckland, seen from Waiheke Island, New Zealand’s North Island

 

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