This last post of my Taiwan mini-series (planning, one-week and two-week itinerary, favorite luxury hotels) goes into my fine-dining restaurant highlights. On a 17-day trip through beautiful Taiwan, my husband and I tried to dine at good gourmet dining spots whenever possible. While it was no problem finding such places in the island’s big cities, this was a bit different in the countryside. Yet we managed to get more than decent dinners in Taiwan in most cases. As a matter of fact, we only had one meal that we would have preferred to do without. But anyway, that is not the topic here. It is about my three favorite fine-dining restaurants in Taiwan.

Before jumping on the places in question, let us have a short look at foodie restaurants in Taiwan in general.

(Michelin) fine-dining restaurant scene in Taiwan

What Michelin and The World’s 50 Best Restaurants think

Taiwan is continuously making an impact on Asia’s fine-dining scene. Since the inaugural Michelin Guide Taipei in 2018, three more cities were added, Kaohsiung, Tainan and Taichung. In the Michelin’s last Taiwan edition (August 2023), 341 restaurants were included. 3 got three stars (Le Palais Taipei, Taïrroir Taipei and JL Studio Taichung), 6 two stars (Molino de Urdániz, Mudan, Logy, L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon and RAW, all in Taipei, and Liberté in Kaohsiung) and 34 one star. This is quite an impressive performance record, I think!

Also The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list covers Taiwan. 50Best Discovery shows 19 results when doing a search. 13 are in Taipei, 2 in Taichung and 3 in Kaoshiung. All three Michelin three-star establishments are included.

Our choice of fine-dining restaurants in Taiwan

As to our restaurant selection in Taiwan, it was no easy thing to do. First of all, the hottest tables are gone the minute they are open for online reservation (usually made via “inline”). And many among those are also quite expensive. Plus, some only accept bookings by phone. Then, it is sometimes difficult to find English information about certain places online. Not all have websites in English. And if they have, they make it not easy for you to find out where to click for the English version. Furthermore, restaurants are often very specific when it comes to making a reservation. They ask for several things, and you have to pay an amount or the whole meal in advance.

Despite all the difficulties we faced in the reservation process, we managed to find some really good spots. When doing so, we focused on more affordable places, i.e. such ones not asking for much more than 4,000 TWA (111 SFR/US$) for the tasting menu. After all, we had 17 nights to eat out. Except in one case – where we opted for the Signature Wagyu Menu with a Sirloin steak as main course – , we succeeded.

My top 3 fine-dining restaurants in Taiwan

In contrast to my luxury hotel highlights (my post) in Taiwan that I did not list in descending order, I made a ranking for my favorite fine-dining restaurants on this island. After lots of thinking, I have chosen my best thee among 13 places. While my number one was clear from the beginning, number two and three were not so easy to determine. Here is my classification of my personal fine-dining restaurant highlights in Taiwan. Two of them are Michelin listed, from which one even holds a Michelin star. The third is a second restaurant from a three-star Michelin chef on the island.

In this context, I have to add that we dined at one more one-star Michelin spot. And this was the one I have elected as my actual number two of best restaurant experiences in Taiwan. It is about Restaurant Holt in Taipei whose chef (Jeffery Downs) had left for Canada even before our visit.

While they were still serving his creations on our visit, we were told that there would be a rebranding process. And I have just noticed that their website is no longer available. So, I had to rearrange my ranking with a new number two and three. But first to my undisputed number one.

1. Restaurant Marc L³ Kaohsiung

About

According to 50Best Discovery, “reservations here are like gold dust”. I well noticed that when checking out the booking process at Marc L³. So, I bookmarked the exact time when to do the reservation online. And I was successful. Then we were given a short time window to make the full payment of the meal. But instead with credit card, they asked for a bank transfer. This was a no-go option for us (short payment deadline and high fees). Finally, the matter was settled when we involved our hotel concierge (Silks Club, many thanks!). You see, scoring a reservation at one of the hottest tables in Taiwan is no walk in the park!

After this overlong elaboration how to reserve one of the hottest tables in south Taiwan – sorry for this – , now to the place itself. Chef Marc Liao has been in fine dining for twenty years, also abroad for ten something years. In 2019, the Taipei born chef settled town in Kaohsiung. Here he joined Liberté, a two-star Michelin restaurant, before opening his own place in 2021. At Marc L³ – the three L’s stand for Live x Liberal x Limitless – , he serves contemporary cuisine in a casual setting. Marc L³ is listed at Michelin and at 50Best Discovery (The World’s 50 Best Restaurants).

What to expect?

Marc L³ is set in a quiet street in Kaohsiung’s Qianjin District. The spot is small, guests are seated either at the counter on the ground level (nine seats) or upstairs where you find three more tables. There is a cool vibe in here. This shows not only in the decor but also in the staff’s attitude. Marc Liao and three chefs (all women) were at work on our evening and one maître d`along with two servers.

Food wise, you are in for excellent modern European cuisine that is served without chichi. He does this by combining diverse cooking styles and techniques, which results in truly memorable creations. On offer is a sole eight-course menu. It is reasonably priced at 3,600 TWA (100 SFR/US$). According to the chef’s Instagram feed, he plans to open a new chapter where he aims at upleveling. This in order to get closer to the restaurant experience that he carries in his heart. Let us see what he has in mind. I already found that he brilliantly performed on our evening.

How was it dining at Marc L³, my favorite among visited fine-dining restaurants in Taiwan?

Upon arrival, two employees stood ready in front of the chic remodeled townhouse to greet us by name.

No wonder, we were the only Westerners dining here at this night. Once inside, the chef welcomed us too and chatted with us for quite some time. Besides being an outstanding chef – see below – , Marc Liao is a really nice person too! We were seated at the counter – we had not expected this – and were able to watch what was going on in the kitchen – and that was informative and entertaining at the same time!

In terms of food, dining at Marc L³ was one hell of an experience! We were served a delightfully balanced series of inventive dishes (12 of them) that surprised at every bite. The dinner included the chef’s playful take on a hotdog, filled with fish and squid. It came with two sauces, one ginger-onion, the other garlic-béchamel. And there was a black exterior that consisted of chicken broth with black truffle and squid ink.

The meat dish was A5 Wagyu shoulder paired with Anna potatoes and kohlrabi. Three sweet dishes put the final point, a rice pudding with chocolate crunch, the chef’s version of an apple pie and a donut with custard, lime and pistachio. We loved every minute of our dinner at Marc L³. It was a a big deal, both from the culinary aspect and the pleasantly relaxed ambiance we encountered here!

2. Restaurant Sho Kaohsiung, my second favorite of 13 fine-dining restaurants visited in Taiwan

About

Sho is an offshoot of the well-known Restaurant Den in Tokyo. This two-star Michelin spot under the lead of Zaiyu Hasegawa has reinvented kaiseki, an elaborate celebration meal. Chef Fujimoto Shoichi from Kyushu/Japan, who had worked five years in Tokyo, was sent to Kaohsiung in 2020. This in order to spread Den’s concept, adapted to its surroundings. And he does this in the fashionable Qianjin District. The chef, who started his professional career in a car repair shop, is now in charge at a state-of-the-art open kitchen. Here, surrounded by lots of staff, he works his magic. While the ambiance at Sho is a bit clinical (lots of white), it is far from being stiff. The dining spot has a Michelin star and is listed at 50Best Discovery (The World’s 50 Best Restaurants).

What to expect at Sho Kaohsiung?

You are in at Sho for a typical Japanese meal. That already shows from the spot’s exteriors. It is all about minimalism, there is lots of wood and you find here common Japanese plantings.

This finds a continuation in the restaurant interiors. The eyes are immediately drawn to a huge counter where about 14 guests can seat. In addition, there are two private rooms for about 6 to 8 each guests each. Everything is kept in white and light colored wood. The staff is also in white, complete with shirt, jacket and cap. Only the chef wears a black tie.

On offer is a sole tasting menu costing 3,500 TWA (96 SFR/US$) and comprised of ten courses. This is the case when you had opted for the so-called rice upgrade on the booking. This is about one of the signature dishes that the chef brought with him from Restaurant Den in Tokyo. It is kamameshi, a traditional rice dish cooked in an iron pot called kama. We got it once with Wagyu

and the other time with scallop.

At the end of the meal, the guests got some of it formed into balls as goodie to eat it as snack the following day. The other dish “imported” from Japan is a special kind of salad, which is made of ten different kinds of vegetable in various preparations. As to the rest of the menu, Fujimoto Shoichi combines traditional recipes with innovative touches.

How was it?

I mentioned it, the dining room is minimalist. Friendly staff welcomed us and led us to our seats at the counter. Here already a printed menu awaited us. At the other side of the counter, there was order and calm. It did not make the impression of an upcoming meal. Once started, it became busier, yet everything was done in quietude and earnest. At first, only the sous chef was in charge, then the chef appeared and took over some parts of the happenings. In any case, it was fascinating to observe.

Staff was cordial and attentive throughout the evening. They also explained the dishes to us. When it was time for the rice upgrade, the sous chef showed the ingredients and the pot around. After dinner, the chef came to all the guests to hand over the above mentioned goodie and to exchange some words. It truly was a pleasant affair!

The food was excellent, a series of small, well-rounded dishes, all of which were convincing. And it was indeed a modernized version of a typical kaiseki meal. It was a somewhat “stripped down version” of it, without the garnishes being for style. The first three starters were all with seafood (squid, oyster, shrimp), then was sashimi, followed by a meat course, duck with onion, nest fern and black tea. Next were the mentioned salad,

tile fish, the rice dishes I already went into and two desserts. The first was a mousse with perilla, plum and red guave. The second was a monaka. This sweet is made of azuki bean paste sandwiched between two wafers made from mochi. Here it came in combination with pineapple and caramel, delicious!

2. Restaurant KEN CAN by Ken Chan Sun Moon Lake

About

Restaurant KEN CAN by Ken Chan is the chef’s second restaurant on the island, and it is in the Sun Moon Lake area. It was opened in 2019, at Hotel Fleur de Chine.

Ken Chan was the first and only chef awarded three Michelin stars in Taiwan, when the guide was first published in 2018. This was at Restaurant Le Palais at Hotel Palais de Chine in Taipei, and he still holds them.

Ken Chan made an extraordinary career. The Hong Kong born chef started with pushing a dim sum trolley around a restaurant from which guests did make their choice. And he did this after dropping out of school when he was twelve. At the age of 23, he began a new chapter in Taiwan. Here he climbed the career ladder, until he became head chef at a five-star hotel. In 2010, he got the position as executive chef at Restaurant Le Palais, which he still holds, now at the age of 58.

It still seems to be Ken Chan’s goal to reinvent himself. On offer at his restaurant is Cantonese cuisine as well as Sichuan, Fuzhou and Taiwanese ones. Signature dishes are Cantonese-style roast duck, Peking duck and gourd stuffed with shrimp and crabmeat. Dim sum also makes part of the menu. And braised fish maw, abalone with goose foot or bird’s nest soup are favorite – yet expensive – choices too. You get all this in opulent dining-rooms with French-meets-Oriental decor. Be advised that the dress code at Le Palais is strictly formal.

What to expect?

Dining at KEN CAN by Ken Chan at Hotel Fleur de Chine at the lakeshore of Sun Moon Lake is probably not comparable to the one at the three-star Michelin parent restaurant in Taipei – I have not been there. In the Sun Moon Lake area, all is simpler. There is one dining-room, which is not big. It is in a traditional, elegant style yet is no formal affair. A “smart casual” attire is sufficient.

The menus are less expensive than in Taipei. You can choose one of three options that cost either 2,980, 3,980 or 5,980 TWA (83, 110 or 166 SFR/US$). And of course, Cantonese cuisine is on offer as in Taipei.

How was it at KEN CAN by Ken Chan?

On our arrival at the hotel reception, we were escorted to the premises, passing two other (casual) restaurants on the way. Only a few tables were occupied at the flagship spot (on a Friday evening end of March). The atmosphere was quiet, even somewhat relaxed. We had been contacted beforehand in order to enquire what menu we wanted (see above). And we had opted for the middle one. So, the printed menu was already laid out on the table. After some snacks, it was up to fish maw soup. It is a delicacy in China. In case you wonder about it, it is the inflatable swim bladder that most fish use to ascend and descend in water. It was mild in taste otherwise unremarkable – probably something for connoisseurs.

It went on with dishes that are somewhat unfamiliar to Westerners. While the lobster was something we knew and appreciated well, this was not the case as to the sauce. It was a mapo tofu one, a famous Sichuan staple where tofu pieces are braised in a rich, spicy sauce. Next was abalone, which we got to know a few years ago in Hong Kong. It was served on Low Mein (tossed noodles). And it was tender and tasty. I very much liked the next course, spinach, lettuce and tofu skin. The latter is the thin layer that forms at the top when you simmer fresh soy milk.

All in all, it was an interesting and authentic journey through Cantonese cuisine, an experience you cannot not make very often in Western Europe. Service was friendly, helpful and informative, we felt well at ease throughout the evening.

Looking back on my Taiwan journey

While this post focused on my three personal fine-dining highlights in Taiwan, you find on my blog some remarks about all the restaurants my husband and I dined on our 17-day journey. For this purpose, go for Taipei, Taroko and Sun Moon Lake to my one-week itinerary. As for Kenting, Kaohsiung and Beitou-Taipei refer to my two-week travel plan. Overall, I can assure you that – when traveling for food – , you get your money’s worth in Taiwan. While it is not always elaborate gourmet food when leaving the big cities, it was always good wherever we went.

Besides this blogpost about recommended fine dining in Taiwan and the two mentioned itineraries, I also went into two other topics concerning this island. My very first post went into some considerations to make when planning a luxury trip to this country. And the post before the current one was about my favorite three luxury hotels here.

Date of stay: April 2024

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The post My personal fine-dining restaurant highlights in Taiwan first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post My personal fine-dining restaurant highlights in Taiwan appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

After elaborating on general aspects of a trip in style to Taiwan – planning, one-week and two-week itinerary – , it is about the best luxury hotels on this island. On a recent Taiwan journey across the country, my husband and I stayed at six of the best upscale accommodations. While we liked all of them, they did not equally excel in all areas. So, it was possible to choose my personal highlights among them. Find in the following all you have to know about my three lodging favorites in Taiwan. Two are city hotels (Taipei and Kaohsiung), one is in the countryside (Sun Moon Lake, center).

Before delving into the best luxury hotels in Taiwan, some general facts in the context of booking (luxury) hotels on this island.

What to know about booking (luxury) hotels in Taiwan

Whereas there are lots of luxury hotels in the big cities on Taiwan’s west side, this is not so when leaving this part of the island. As the majority of travelers to Taiwan go to the same few locations when doing so – Taroko Gorge, Sun Moon Lake, Alishan – , you find high-end lodging in these spots too. Said that, Alishan makes an exception here. From what I learn, the accommodations here are neither ubiquitous (they sell out fast) nor can they be considered as good (old and overpriced). As to the other places mentioned, there is a choice of upscale hotels, however not a wide one.

When it comes to rates, I found that the city hotels on the island’s west side (Taipei and Kaohsiung) usually offer good value for money. I have read that people from Japan, Hong Kong or Singapore come here “to live it up” at Taipei hotels, which they often could not afford in their own countries. I personally found our Taipei accommodation (Mandarin Oriental) reasonably priced, and this much in contrast to most of their branches in Europe! And our hotel in Kaoshiung (Silks Club) even was a bargain.

However, as to luxury hotels outside of cities, they cost more. We paid quite some rates, both in the Taroko Gorge (Silks Place) and Sun Moon Lake (The Lalu). But as mentioned, almost every traveler to Taiwan comes here, and there is not much competition.

I start with two of the best luxury hotels in Taipei and Kaohsiung before continuing with my personal lodging highlight in the Sun Moon Lake area.

1. Hotel Mandarin Oriental Taipei, one of the best luxury hotels in Taiwan

Mandarin Oriental is for sure one of the best luxury hotels in Taipei if not in the entire country of Taiwan. And it also is one of the newer ones (opened in 2014). In contrast to the buildings of its competitors which are often made of concrete, glass and steel, it is somewhat unique. It is reminiscent of Medieval European architecture, albeit it definitely is a mix of different styles from several countries. You find here for example a dome like in Florence or fountains just as in Versailles. Without doubt, is an impressive property designed to impress.

Location

Mandarin Oriental Taipei is located on Dunhua North Road, Taipei’s main boulevard, in the Songshan District. While being in downtown Taipei in one of several business districts in town (financial industry), its situation comes handy enough yet is not exceptionally good. It might be favorable for domestic travelers as it is near the Songshan Airport (5 minutes by car), for others – especially leisure travelers – it is not so. This because it is a bit away from the main tourist sights. Said that, it is close to the next MRT (7 minutes by foot), which is a great plus. In addition, the neighborhood seems to be in transition. You find here new buildings but also lots of such ones soon to be demolished.

Ambiance/Staff

The hotel exudes an upscale ambiance. This is true not only for the elegant entry hall but also THE ARCADE, the adjoining shopping complex. While the latter appeared a bit without life on our visits, it is remarkable with its glamorous shops along marble floors and the striking Italian-like courtyard plaza. For Western Europeans, the whole property might seem a bit too much in terms of opulence and eclecticism, yet it definitely is a sight to behold.

The staff is as excellent as you would expect at a hotel of this caliber. The standard of service never fails to impress, be it at the reception, at the M.O. Bar or at Café Un Deux Trois where they serve breakfast. Each and every staff member we got in touch with had a good command of English. And that was a rarity on our Taiwan trip. Staying at Mandarin Oriental came closest to a typical western hotel experience. All the other accommodations we lodged at in this country had more Taiwanese touches.

Rooms/Pricing

Out of the 330 rooms in total, you can choose among an array of categories. As to rooms, it starts with the Deluxe Room (55 sqm), then goes over the Mandarin Room (70 sqm) to the Mandarin Premier Room (70 sqm). Then, there is a number of suites. All accommodations are also available as Club versions, i.e. with access to The Oriental Lounge. As you may have noticed, all the rooms are oversized.

My husband and I opted for the Mandarin Premier Room. What it differentiates it from the Mandarin Room is the fact that it has two rooms. You find onsite a private master bedroom plus a living area.

The bathroom is generous, clad in marble and with a bathtub as well as a large walk-in shower.

The toilet (a Japanese version) is separated from it. The space is classically furnished with plush carpets and modern touches. And you have the benefit of a city view. The rate was 411 SFR/US$ for two per day with full breakfast (in March 2024).

We loved our Mandarin Premier Room. The one thing that I did not like was the lack of storage room. But this seems to be a general problem at hotels inTaiwan. Almost all the properties we stayed at made the impression of being designed for a short stay only. In addition, we often also encountered – at Mandarin Oriental Taipei too – “fake” furnitures where you could not store anything (?).

Restaurants at Mandarin Oriental Taipei

You find here six restaurants. Ya Ge is their flagship one serving Chinese food in an elegant ambiance and holding a Michelin star. Plus, there is Bencotto for contemporary Italian cuisine in a relaxed setting and Café Un Deux Trois where you get international cuisine in a casual atmosphere. For light meals, you can choose among The Jade Lounge (afternoon tea), M.O. Bar (drinks and snacks)

and The Mandarin Cake Shop (cakes and patisserie).

I have to admit that we only had breakfast at Café Un Deux Trois, which was fabulous. The space is huge, lively, and tables are packed close together. Yet staff tends to seat Westerners at quiet spots, which was appreciated by us.

We had seriously thought about booking a table at their Chinese place Ya Ge. It gets good reviews and is adequately priced. Ultimately, we opted to explore the dining scene outside the hotel to get a feel for “real” Taiwanese food culture.

Other facilities

Of course, Mandarin Oriental Taipei leaves nothing to be desired when it comes to spa and wellness! It boasts one of the most luxurious spas in town (3,500 sqm). There are heated water experiences, 12 treatment rooms, a yoga studio, a spa boutique, relaxation facilities and a 20-m/66 ft outdoor swimming pool.

Overall Mandarin Oriental Taipei as one of the best luxury accommodations in Taiwan

Mandarin Oriental Taipei is possibly the best luxury hotel in Taipei or even in Taiwan. Together with the adjoining shopping complex THE ARCADE it is a large-scale undertaking. Its opulent and eclectic Medieval European architecture is impressive yet might be a bit too much for Western Europeans. Everything at this glamorous hotel is of the highest standard. You almost cannot find fault with it. And the rates are affordable compared to many other MO branches in Europe. The only thing that I find slightly subpar is its location. It might be favorable for local business but not so for leisure travelers. Yet the proximity of the MRT somewhat compensates for this disadvantage.

2. Hotel Silks Club Kaohsiung

Hotel Silks Club in Kaohsiung, Taiwan’s most southern big city, was a real find! I had long thought about where to stay on the island’s south-western coast. Originally, I had been inclined to opt for Tainan, as it is probably the best city to experience Taiwanese history and culture. But none of its upscale hotels could fully persuade me. So, we settled for the nearby more cosmopolitan city of Kaohsiung.

And we did not regret it! We even considered our choice of accommodation as one of the best luxury hotels in Taiwan! Plus, we had three nights here, so we could use one of it for a day trip to Tainan.

Location

Silks Club sits in the heart of the Asia New Bay Area waterfront redevelopment, a bit south of the city center. While the hotel is not so centrally located as I had wished for, its situation can still be considered as good. It is within walking distance of two MRT stations and a Circular Light Rail station. You reach the Kaohsiung Railway Station and the Kaohsiung International Airport in about a 20-minute drive. To get to the Taiwan High Speed Rail Station allow more time, maybe 25 to 30 minutes by car (traffic can be heavy).

Having uttered some criticism about Silks Club’s location, they are in good company. Its two main competitors, InterContinental and TAI Urban Resort are nearby. And great restaurants are within easy reach as well as shopping opportunities (Dream Mall, Taiwan’s largest department store).

Ambiance/Staff at Silks Club Kaohsiung

Silks Club, opened in 2017, is part of the The Silks Hotel Group. This is the largest and most profitable hotel group listed on the Taiwan Stock Exchange. It operates the Regent Taipei and five other hotel brands, among them Silks Club and Silks Place. While the latter is about cultural luxury lifestyle hotels, the former is into art, design and boutique. This focus already shows when entering the premises of Silks Club Kaohsiung. You are immediately captured by the “Dancing Particles” (watch video when they are dancing: E378E91F-C384-436E-B2C4-36C67895026E_2_0_a ART+COM Studios) in the lobby.

The motion art sculpture features 168 metal spheres that float and dance above a pole of water, amazing! But there is more, works of over 200 artists are showcased throughout the hotel.

Apart from all the art that appears everywhere, the hotel’s interior design is remarkable too. It is a masterpiece in minimalistic magnificence. I would go so far as to say that is the most beautiful sleek, urban hotel I have seen lately. More to some features in the sections about rooms and restaurants.

As to the staff, I can only say respectively write positive things about it. That starts with the concierge/bell desk – where we chatted a few times to a nice employee –  and goes over to the staff at the restaurants as well as the hotel maintenance workers we were in touch. All were trained in the way of generous spirit. We felt well looked after and did not have to worry about a thing.

Rooms/Pricing

Silks Club Kaohsiung extends over 29 floors and features 147 guest rooms. There are only 6 to 10 units on each floor, and 3 elevators are at your disposal. As to room categories, the offer ranges from Deluxe King/Twin (59 sqm) to Premier King/Twin (66 sqm), Studio Deluxe King (63 sqm), Junior Suite King (80 sqm) and several suites.

My husband and I had chosen the most upscale room (not suite) with a twin bed. And that was a Premier Twin. What a great accommodation that was! We were on the 25th floor with wonderful city views. Not only it was spacious, but also outfitted with state-of-the-art comforts. These included special measures towards sound- and lightproofing, North American oak flooring and premium Italian handmade mattresses. It was kept in neutral hues with cool blue toned accents.

The bathroom was huge and made of marble. Separated from the oversized sink area there was a bath tub with view plus a shower. And yet in another (separated) part the toilet.

And imagine, all this came for the rate of 265 SFR/US$ for two per day including a full breakfast (April 2024)! The only thing that was suboptimal in our room was the slightly insufficient air-condition in the bathroom. It cooled down the adjacent walk-in closet rather than the sink area.

Restaurants

In terms of restaurants there is the fine-dining space of Ukai-tei with the adjoining Dassai Bar as well as the In Jade Lounge and Bar.

The latter is destined for breakfast, afternoon tea as well as drinks and snacks in the evening. The former offers a lunch and a dinner service. It is about the first overseas restaurant of the Japanese brand Ukai-tei. In Kaohsiung, you can choose among three dining-rooms, designed by interior designer Hashimoto Yukio: Ukai-tei Teppanyaki,

Ukai Kaiseki and Grill Ukai Kaohsiung. They are connected by a stunning spiral staircase. It came per ship in one piece and was placed into the construction before building the restaurant around it.

Breakfast at the In Jade Lounge was lovely. We could make our choice out of five set menus served on a tray.

In addition, we could help ourselves from a buffet. As to dinner, my husband and I went to Ukai-tei Teppanyaki where we had our own chef who prepared a fabulous Ukai Signature Wagyu Menu before our eyes.

Out of the three Japanese Wagyu main courses, we decided on the middle of three options (Sirloin for 5800 TWD / 161 SFR/US$; Rump/Tenderloin would have lost 4,800/6,500 TWD / 133/181 SFR/US$). That made it the most expensive meal of our Taiwan journey!

Other facilities

The hotel boasts a Valmont Spa, a sauna area, a well-equipped gym and a semi-open-air infinity pool. The latter can also be used for parties or events. Also the In Jade Lounge serves as a multiple function room for events of all kind.

Overall Silks Club Kaohsiung as one of the best luxury hotels in Taiwan

I have rarely seen a city hotel that is so cool, urban and stylish. Already the 4D kinetic art installation in the lobby set an example for what to expect at Silks Club Kaohsiung. And this continues throughout the hotel. They showcase art works from a mix of local artists and renowned international names that is unparalleled. Also the two-story Japanese restaurant with its unique spiral staircase is a sight. And the modern generously sized rooms are a traveler’s dream! Yet it is not only about style here, but the substance is persuasive as well. Service is immaculate, food is great, and facilities are state-of-the-art! Moreover, this high level of quality comes at a reasonable room price. However, the Signature Wagyu Menu at Restaurant Ukai-tei Teppanyaki has a high price tag. Notwithstanding that, Silks Club Kaohsiung is definitely one of the best luxury hotels in Taiwan.

3. The Lalu Sun Moon Lake

The Lalu on the Sun Moon Lake in the country’s center makes it into my top three luxury hotels in Taiwan because of the beauty of this place. While many aspects as to this accommodation were convincing, others were not. Even though, my husband and I were in awe of this stunning hotel with its unmatched lake views, serene ambiance and intriguing history.

Location

I already gave a spoiler, The Lalu’s location on the Lalu Pensinsula on Sun Moon Lake’s northern coastline is breathtakingly beautiful. It is situated at the foothills of the Central Mountain Range, just by the island’s largest body of water. Next to the small peninsula there is the main tourist village in the area, Shuishe. You get here either from the Taiwan’s west side (Taipei, Taichung or Kaohsiung) or from the east side (Taroko Gorge/Hualien). My husband and I did the latter, arriving by rental car. While this is a wonderful drive through the mountains (allow at least four hours), it is no easy thing (winding and narrow roads).

Ambiance/Staff

What started as a modest cabin in the Japanese colonial time, became later an official government guest house under the Japanese Crown Prince Hirohito and later under President Chiang Kai-Shek. In 20o2, it opened as a luxury hotel. It was rebuilt from the original palace, saving only its beams, columns and floor. All the rest was replaced. The architect in charge was the Australian Kerry Hill who had already designed several Aman hotels. His premise for The Lalu was “Ongoing style”. And in my humble opinion, he succeeded. The hotel is as fresh as it was when built. It is timeless design in perfection.

An interesting detail with The Lalu is the importance of lighting, which was integrated into the planning from the outset. At daytime for example, seven lighting changes occur at different times and in different settings. And you really notice, the hotel’s appearance seems to fluctuate during the course of a day. Yet, it is always a serene, harmonious place. Gazing at the lake from here has such a calming effect on you.

As to the staff, not everyone seems to feel that magic. Whereas the front desk’s performance was immaculate, this was not always the case at the bar and the restaurants. More details on that follows in the section about restaurants.

Rooms/Pricing

There are 96 rooms in total. All to them are suites, sizable (at least 83 sqm) and have a separate living room. An exception here are the Courtyard Pool Villas (333 sqm), which have instead a lounge, a courtyard and an outdoor dining pavilion (there is a handful of them). The least expensive room is the Courtyard Suite – where lake view might be obstructed. The next more expensive is the Lakeside Suite 2nd to 3rd floor, then follows the Lakeview Suite 5th to 7th floor. The top end accommodation is the above mentioned Courtyard Pool Villa. Plus, you also find onsite Lakeview Suites with two bedrooms.

We had opted for a Lakeview Suite on an upper floor and were delighted by ours on the 7th floor! The room was kept in a minimal Zen-like design with lots of wood. There was a spacious, tastefully furnished living room,

which was separated from the bedroom by the television and a closet.

The bathroom was in granite with a large bath tub. And the balcony spanned the full length of the accommodation, offering absolutely stunning lake views. Lying on the outdoor daybed (for two) and letting our gaze wander was such a relaxing thing to do!

The rate for this Lakeview Suite amounted to 599 SFR/US$ for two per day including a full breakfast.

Restaurants

There is quite a choice when it comes to restaurants at The Lalu. Open to the public are The Lake View Chinese Restaurant (fine dining)

and the Oriental Brasseries (Asian & Western contemporary cuisine in a relaxed ambiance). The other three only admit hotel guests and members. It is about The Japanese Restaurant (modern cuisine & Teppanyaki),

The Lobby Bar (drinks & snacks)

and The Tea House (snacks, desserts & tea, only at daytime).

We had breakfast at the Oriental Brasseries, which was solid but not really exceptional. Then we had dinner at both the Chinese

and the Japanese place.

While food in both places was good, the service was not. At the former, we were poorly advised about how many dishes to choose. At the latter, the servers put the dishes in front of us without any explanations (set menu). And at the bar, the bar maid was not welcoming, and this on two occasions. Bottom line, service at the restaurants at The Lalu leaves much to be desired – that is a pity!

Other facilities

You find a spa in the hotel’s east wing where you are in here for massage treatments, saunas, steam rooms, a gym and a hot spring. And there are complimentary yoga classes. The infinitive pool lined with lots of sun beds is great. It is 60 m/ 197 ft long and offers splendid lake views.

Overall as The Lalu as one of the best luxury accommodations in Taiwan

The Lalu is an absolutely stunning property in an unbeatable location with wonderful lake views. The rooms are beautiful and spacious. This is true for most of its communal spaces too, the lobby, the bar or the Japanese restaurant (however some limit the access to hotel guests and members). Also the pool and the adjoining tea house are feasts for the eyes. The front desk service is immaculate, but the one at the Chinese and the Japanese restaurants as well as at the bar do not meet the standard of a high-end five-star property. In terms of food, we had good although not really memorable dinners at the above mentioned dining spots. Regardless of The Lalu’s flaws, it definitely is part of the best luxury hotels in Taiwan.

What about the other three hotels of our Taiwan trip? 

As hinted, we stayed at six luxury hotels on our Taiwan trip. And you already know that we were in favor of all of them. If you want to know more about the individual places, check out my Taiwan one-week and two-week itineraries. Follow the links below:

• Silks Place Taroko
• Gloria Manor Kenting
• Grand View Resort Beitou

Looking back and ahead on my Taiwan journey

So far, I have published considerations to make when planning a (luxury) Taiwan trip, a one-week itinerary (Taiwan’s north) and a two-week itinerary (whole island, the one my husband and I did). Next on my blog – and the last Taiwan post – is about my three restaurant highlights in this country. And they are all fine-dining spots, as we consider ourselves as gourmets. It is our aim to indulge in great food not only at home in Switzerland but also when traveling. Yet we always have an eye on value for money too!

Date of stay: April 2024

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The post My personal luxury hotel highlights in Taiwan appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Now it is to the details of a two-week Taiwan itinerary. My last post was about a one-week travel plan comprising the island’s north. If you have two weeks at your disposal, then you can also travel Taiwan’s south. Plus, you have the option to build in one more stay in the north. Such a travel plan allows you to take your time and to explore sights in the respective surroundings too. Again, I only included stops that ensure travel in style. That means places where you find options for staying at luxury hotels and dining at (Michelin) gourmet restaurants. Yet – as always – , I only considered establishments offering value for money.

There are six stops in total. Compared to the one-week itinerary that I described in my last post, there are three more. Two are in the south (Kenting National Park and Kaohsiung), one is in the north (a second Taipei stay). Find in the following my Google Map of a 17-day road trip in Taiwan that my husband and I did. It can be shortened to 14 days without any problems:

Overview on my Google Map of our 17-day Taiwan itinerary

As you could see, we started and ended the journey in Taipei with four stops in-between. The first stop was on the Island’s northeast, at the Taroko Gorge near the seaside town of Hualien. Then we traveled inland to Sun Moon Lake in the foothills of the Central Mountain Range. We continued towards south to the Kenting National Park. And before returning to Taipei, we had our one and only stay in a big city apart from Taipei, and this in Kaohsiung.

As I already went into the first three stops in my mentioned one-week travel plan, you find in this post about a two-week Taiwan itinerary only explanations to the last three ones (Kenting National Park, Kaohsiung and north Taipei). Again, I start with a short description of the respective town/region. Then I let you know what to do here in a few sentences. Finally, I go briefly into each of the high-end hotels we stayed and the (Michelin) fine dining spots we ate.

A 17-day Taiwan round trip with six stops in style

See details to stop 1 – 3 here

4. Kenting National Park (south, 2 nights)

About

The Kenting National Park occupies the entire southern tip of the country. And while Kenting is said to have the best beaches in Taiwan, they are subpar to those of typical beach destinations. Nonetheless, the area boasts a lovely coastal scenery and is well worth a full-day exploring.

Things to do here include: walk in the Sheding Natural Park with its huge coral rocks (volunteers guide you around if you wish), Sail “Nixon” Rock, Taiwan’s southernmost point, Longpan Park (great coastal views)

and Hengchun (old city wall with four ancient gates,

Old Street

with Patisserie Ce Moment).

Hotel: Gloria Manor

This is yet another property that has a connection to the former president Chiang Kai-shek. It used to be one of his presidential guesthouses. And this is easy to understand in light of the picturesque mountain and sea scenery you find here. The hotel is remotely located inside the Kenting National Forest Recreation Area, surrounded by tropical greenery.

Gloria Manor took over the site in 2012. The building convinces with minimalistic design that blends nicely into the natural setting. You find here 60 rooms in a range of categories. Yet it does have to be one with a sea view as this is probably the main attraction of staying here.

Breakfasts are excellent, you can make your choice out of several ones served on a tray.

And you can have it also in the pleasant outdoor area. Mu is the only restaurant on site, find some details below.

Restaurants: Mu Restaurant (at Hotel Gloria Manor)

At Gloria Manor’s Mu Restaurant you get excellent Taiwan cuisine with a modern twist. And the place strictly adheres to the principle “not in season, not on the menu”. The setting is relaxed yet still with an upscale touch. My husband and I dined here on both evenings and liked what we got. Good choices from the à la carte menu were Wonton Soup, Crab Omelet, Fried Rice with Pineapple & Dolphinfish, Mango Pomelo Sago or Baked Pudding.

There is also a set menu (1,680 TWD / 47 SFR/US$).

5. Kaohsiung (south, 3 nights)

About

Kaohsiung is Taiwan’s third most populous city and is home to the island’s largest port. While it long used to be an industrial city, it has been reorienting itself toward tourism as well as art and culture since since the turn of the millennium. This shows in the vast Pier-2 Art Center where former shipping warehouses were turned into shops and cafés. And there are museums, art installations and street art. I for one liked the dynamic vibe of Kaohsiung!

As to more classic sights here, the scenic Lotus Pond in the north of the city is an good place to go. It is known for its 20 temples or so along the shoreline and nearby.

And there is the Confucius Temple too. Another big name attraction in the area is the Fo Guang Shan Monastery, outside of town, which is the largest in all of Taiwan and quite a sight.

Last but not least, we used Kaohsiung for a day trip to Tainan. This is Taiwan’s original capital and still retains a traditional vibe. Go to the city center first (Confucius Temple, Hayashi Departement Store, Snail Alley & Shennong Street, two quaint streets;

then proceed to the Anping District (Anping Fort, Anping Old Street, Anping Treehouse).

Hotel: Silks Club

Silks Club is one kind of a cool, urban hotel, attracting business and leisure travelers alike. It is located in the emerging neighborhood of Qianzhen, opened in 2017. Already the sleek lobby with the reflecting pool of water impresses.

And it continues when it comes to the rooms. The 147 units have an average size of 66 sqm, floor-to-ceiling windows and oversized bathrooms.

The place for breakfast is In Jade Lounge – you get it on a tray plus there is small buffet, and it is a tasty affair.

You can also come here for drinks in the evening. The restaurant, a branch of the Japanese Ukai Tei, is divided into several sub-spots (Teppanyaki, Kaiseki & Grill). Find more info on the former below.

Restaurants: Ukai-tei Teppanyaki (at Silks Club), Marc L³ & Sho

For our Kaohsiung food adventures, my husband and I chose three Michelin dining spots. One even has a Michelin star (Sho), two are on the 50Best Discovery list (Sho & Marc L³).

I start with the “hotel restaurant”, Ukai-tea Teppanyki, where they serve a Wagyu menu (Rump 4,800 TWD, Sirloin 5,800 TWD, Tenderloin 6,500 TWD). We opted for the Sirloin (161 SFR/US$) and could witness quality ingredients being cooked on the iron plate right before our eyes. And we even had a chef who exclusively cooked for the two of us! That was quite an experience, especially when it was up to the preparation of the abalone (from live to death).

Our favorite dinner in Kaoshiung and probably on our whole Taiwan trip was the one at Marc L³. The three L’s stand for Live x Liberal x Limitless. Reservations here are difficult to get, and we had to pay our meal in advance (which was not a no-brainer to arrange). Yet, once seated at the counter (9 seats only), we were in for culinary magic! Unique French fare was prepared in front of us, and this as eight-course menu (3,960 TWD / 112 SFR/US$) in a relaxed ambiance.

And the chef is such a nice guy too, communicative, approachable and amiable! What a great evening we had here!

Dining at Sho, an outpost of the Tokyo famed Den Restaurant, was a epicurean highlight as well. We were treated to an exquisite Japanese meal with creative touches. Quite in contrast to Marc L³, it took place in a somewhat chilly ambiance. The place – a counter with 14 seats – had an almost clinical appearance. Notwithstanding that, we truly enjoyed the tasting menu (3,500 TWD + rice upgrade 700 TWD / 119 SFR/US$). And if you are wondering about the rice upgrade, go for it! It is a traditional rice dish cooked in an iron pot called a kama, once with Wagyu and the other time with scallops.

6. Taipei (Beitou District, north of the center, 3 nights)

About

Our second stay in Tapei was in Beitou, the capital’s most northern district. While it is not too far away from Taipei’s center (half an hour by MRT), it has a less urban feel. The hilly area is known for its hot springs and is close to beautiful nature.

We had planned to explore Taiwan’s north from Beitou. Yet we only managed to do one such day trip because of not so good weather. And this was to Jiufen,

a seaside town in the lush mountains northeast of Taipei (book a Taiwan tea time at Jiufen Artist Teahouse, expensive yet worthwhile;

escape the crowds by hiking the Jinguashi Aqueduct Trail). We left out the second one to Yangmingshan National Park on Taipei’s northern fringe. Instead, we headed to central Taipei once again, to the University District. And it was lively, even on a Sunday. And do not miss the sights in Beitou: Thermal Valley, Puji Temple,

Beitou Library, Xinbeitou Historic Station.

Hotel: Grand View Resort Beitou

While Beitou is not the first address for first timers to Taipei seeking to explore the city to the fullest, it was ideal for our purposes. Having already done the capital’s major sights, we longed for a quiet place to spend our last few days in Taiwan. Staying here is the best of both worlds: being in relative proximity to Taipei’s center and at the same surrounded by nature.

Grand View Resort Beitou is the most luxurious among the many hot-spring hotels that make use of the sulfurous hot-spring water that bubbles from the ground. The relatively large and modern property (opened in 2011) stands high on a slope with beautiful views of Beitou and beyond.

All the 66 guest rooms are spacious and come with hot-spring bathrooms, allowing a private soaking experience. I think the accommodations could use a little touch up, especially the wet area (the moisture from the hot springs does not help).

Breakfasts are really good here, served on a tray. And they even offered another variety on our third day. There are three restaurants, from which we tried out two (we did not eat at Aqua Deck with light continental food). Find more details in the next section.

Restaurants: Chinese Cuisine & C’est Bon (both at Hotel Grand View Resort)

We had dinner every evening at Hotel Grand View Resort Beitou. As I had read good things about the Chinese Cuisine – it is Michelin listed – , we went there twice.

One evening, we tried out the French place, C’est Bon.

While both offered fine food, we found C’est Bon better. We had a lovely dinner here indulging in immaculately prepared French food with a Taiwanese twist. Out of the four set menus, we ordered the one with Boston Lobster (3,080 TWD / 87 SFR/USD$), and we relished it.

As to the Chinese place, we had a not so good dining experience on our first evening. Whereas the food was good (we had opted for à la carte), service and setting were less so. Everything was better on our second dinner – we had the Vegetarian Set Menu (2,280 TWD / 64 SFR/US$). Yet C’est Bon has our love!

Looking back and ahead on my Taiwan journey

The start made some considerations to bear in mind when planning a (luxury) Taiwan trip (my post), followed by a proposal for one-week itinerary here. This is actually the first part of the journey my husband and I did on this island. It includes the three major travel highlights in this country, Taipei, Taroko Gorge and Sun Moon Lake. As luxury traveler and  fine dining lover, I also give recommendations as to where to stay and dine in style. In addition, I go into what to do in all theses places, plus some ideas for side trips. In this very post, you get the same thing, yet for the second part of our trip. Taken together, you have info on our original 17-day itinerary (that you can shorten to a 2-week Taiwan itinerary). Next on my blog, you will find out about my personal hotel and restaurant highlights in Taiwan in some more details.

Date of stay: April 2024

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The post Taiwan in style, a 2-week road trip itinerary appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

While my last post went into general considerations to make when planning a Taiwan trip, this one is about a concrete one-week itinerary. When my husband and I toured beautiful Formosa – as it was called by its discoverers – , we actually had 17 days at our disposal (for the whole island). Yet, you can shorten the journey to one week (north only). This still allows you to see the island’s three major highlights – Taipei, Taroko Gorge and Sun Moon Lake. And my one-week proposal is about a Taiwan trip in style, meaning staying in luxury hotels and dining in (Michelin) gourmet restaurants (if available).

Before coming to the details of the three individual stops, here my Google Map of this one-week Taiwan trip.

Overview on my Google Map of a 1-week Taiwan itinerary

No Taiwan trip is complete without exploring its capital of Taipei. While I put it as first destination on my Google Map, you can of course also do it at the end of the journey. The second stop is on the Island’s northeast, at the Taroko Gorge near the seaside town of Hualien. Then you travel inland to Sun Moon Lake in the foothills of the Central Mountain Range before returning to Taipei.

I start with a short description of the respective place. Then I let you know what to do here in a few sentences. Last but not least, I go briefly into a high-end hotel and some nearby (Michelin) fine dining spots.

A 1-week Taiwan round trip with three stops in style

1. Taipei (Songshan District, near the city center, 3 nights)

About

Taipei is a must for every Taiwan traveler. You find here a fascinating mix of Chinese, Japanese, indigenous and western influences. And although it is a deeply urban place, nature is never too far away. So, it is the ideal starting and/or ending point for your island exploring.

When it comes to activities, Taipei 101 for a view of the city and the Elephant Mountain for a view of Taipei 101 are musts for first timers to Taipei. Also the political Taipei around the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall has to be on every traveler’s agenda.

Further things to do are the Dihua Old Street,

The Dalongdong Baoan Temple

and the nearby Confucius Temple.

Hotel: Mandarin Oriental Taipei

Before setting off on our Taiwan round trip, we lodged at the Mandarin Oriental in the Songshan District. This business district (financial industry) is an okay location for exploring Taipei, however not the most ideal one. Most sights are in the following districts: Zhongzheng, Wanhua, Datong, Xinyi and Da’an. And Songshan is slightly too far north and east compared to the before mentioned ones. Yet, you are close to a MRT station and once on the subway, you get everywhere quickly enough.

As to the hotel, it is opulent indeed. While being a newly built complex (opened in 2014 together with THE ARCADE, a shopping center), it is reminiscent of Medieval European architecture in an eclectic style.

The 303 guest rooms are more spacious than at its competitors. They are classically furnished with contemporary touches and boast generous marbled bathrooms.

And you get a fabulous breakfast at Café Un Deux Trois, a modern buffet style restaurant. Service is as excellent as you might expect it with this prestigious hotel group. And rates are affordable enough, in contrast to many other MO hotels in Europe.

Restaurants: Holt & Hosu

UPDATE: Restaurant Holt’s website is no longer available

We did not have dinner at Mandarin Oriental Taipei – except some small bites in the M.O. Bar after a late arrival on our first day in Taiwan (which were good).

Instead we had decided on two Michelin listed restaurants in the adjacent neighborhood.

Holt is a one-star Michelin restaurant offering exquisite contemporary European food. On our evening, they still served creations by Canadian chef Jeffery Downs, although he had already left for good in the direction of his home country. We were told that they are now in a rebranding process.

The tasting menu we got (3,980 TWD / 112 SFR/US$) was one of the trip’s highlight food wise delivering very high quality.

While Holt was really great yet very European, we were keen on trying food prepared in a more Taiwanese way. So, we had opted for Hosu, a modern Taiwanese dining spot, which is Michelin listed. And we were delighted by this cute little place whose name means “Good Island”. They served a tasting menu (2,880 TWD / 81 SFR/US$) that surprised at every turn.

2. Taroko Gorge (northeast, 2-3 days)

Currently largely closed due to earthquake in April 2024!

About

Taroko Gorge is one of Taiwan’s top scenic attractions. It is a steep valley created by the Liwu river and makes part of the Taroko National Park. The first 18 km/11 mi of Highway 8, coming from Taiwan’s east coast, are what is known as Taroko Gorge. The thing to do here are hikes of various lengths. Usually one full day is enough to get quite a good insight. My husband and I stayed three nights here, and this right inside the gorge.

As to actual things to do, be advised that usually one or more sights or trails are closed (it is a geologically active site). So, check what is open before you go. We did the following activities (on one full day): Swallow Grotto (short walk), Buluowan Suspension Bridge (crossing the bridge only), Eternal Spring Shrine Trial (closed, you could only walk to the first Shrine), Baiyang Trail to Water Curtain Cave (we did not go in, one and a half hour),

Lushui Trail (only a short part, closed after Small Cave).

The second day, we made a day trip to the Hualien area and a bit more in the south direction. It lead us along the east coast to Qixingtan Beach, Qizingtan (quaint seaside town), Baqi Viewpoint (nice),

Jiqi Beach, Fengbin Skywalk (closed) and Xin She Rice Terraces. Then we returned inland via the towns of Guangfu, Fenglin and Shoufeng. Here we made a side trip to Liyu Lake before going back to the Taroko Gorge.

Hotel: Silks Place Taroko

Closed until mid 2024 due to earthquake in April 2024!

As announced, the hotel is located within the Taroko Gorge. Precisely, it is in Tianxiang, a small village at the top of the gorge, about one hour from Hualien City. If you value the best possible situation for exploring the Taroko Gorge, then you are right here. The property used to be an official government guest house under the regime of president Chiang Kai-shek. In 2010, it opened after a renovation as Silks Place Taroko.

While the hotel’s exteriors are not necessarily a feast for the eyes, its interiors are nice, kept in a contemporary style. The 160 rooms are split over two floors, the Retreat Floor and Resort Floor. The former are more luxurious and offer access to the top floor Retreat Lounge where complimentary snacks and drinks are served all day.

As a Retreat Floor guest, you can have breakfast at either the Wellesley Buffet or the Retreat Lounge (served on a tray). For dinner, you can choose between the mentioned Wellesley Buffet or the Chinese Restaurant. Details to both of them follow in the next section.

Restaurants: Mei Yuan & Wellesley Buffet (both at Hotel Silks Place Resort)

As to the food at Hotel Silks Place Taroko, it was not the best we experienced on our Taiwan trip yet still decent enough. We had opted to be on half board and had to choose where we wanted to have dinner twice. As we do not like buffet restaurants, we went to the Chinese restaurant Mei Yuan on two evenings. And we had Shabu Shabu Hot Pot both times, yet we did not mind. This because it was prepared with good quality ingredients (which are boiled in a pot with soup in front of you).

When it comes to the Wellesley Buffet, we were quite a bit underwhelmed by the experience. Again, the quality of food was high and there was a wide range of culinary options. And the staff ensured that the buffet was kept immaculately.

Yet, it was like being in a bee house, with guests buzzing around and voices overlapping in every direction. It was not like something I expected from a five-star property.

3. Sun Moon Lake (center, 2-3 days)

About

Sun Moon Lake, at the foothills of the Central Mountain Range, is the island’s largest body of water. It is at an altitude of 762 m/2,500 ft and a hugely popular destination. And it is indeed a beautiful scenic view.

There are two lakeside towns, Shuishe village (more touristy) and Ita Thao (home of the Thao aboriginal tribe).

If you wonder what to do here, you can go boating, hiking, cycling and stand-up paddle boarding. However, swimming is not allowed (except at the annual mass swim). As to sights, visit the Wenwu Temple (view from the grounds above it towards the lake is splendid),

walk up to Ci En Pagoda (climb up to the top of it for the view) and go to the Antique Assam Tea Farm (self-guided tour, café & shop).

In case you have two full days in Sun Moon Lake as we had, consider a day trip to the Alishan High Mountain tea fields. Here Taiwan’s most famous tea (Oolong) grows. A good place to spend  a day is the small mountain village of Shizhuo. You can make the most beautiful hikes on the Shizhuo Trails System,

buy tea at the Lin Yuan Tea Factory (oldest tea grower in the area) and make a side trip to another village, Fenqihu (old street).

Hotel: The Lalu Sun Moon Lake

This is yet a former official government guest house of president Chiang Kai-shek. After extensive renovations, it was opened as a luxury hotel in 2002. And this is quite a property! It occupies a peninsula next to the Shuishe village. The hotel spans three buildings that blend harmoniously with the surrounding forested hillside. You have fantastic lake views from almost everywhere at the hotel. It is of a timeless Zen-like design.

All the 96 rooms except some stand-alone villas face the lake

and are exceptionally roomy.

Breakfast is served in the Oriental Brasserie and consists of a huge buffet with a diverse food offer, although it is not so geared towards western tastes. In terms of dining, five restaurants are at your disposal, although some only cater for room guests and member. Find out more about how it is dining at their two flagship dining-spots below.

Restaurants: The Lake View Chinese Restaurant, The Japanese Restaurant (both at The Lala) & KEN CAN by Ken Chan (at Hotel Fleur de Chine)

Both, the Lake View Chinese Restaurant and The Japanese Restaurant, were not as good as I had hoped for. While both offered good food, other aspects were not that satisfying. As far as the Chinese place (à la carte) is concerned, neither the banquet hall-like setting nor the service – we were poorly advised – were persuasive.

However, the Japanese spot (set menu at 3,600 TWD / 101 SFR/US$ with U.S. beef fillet) has an attractive setting (no view). When it comes to service, it was not much better than its Chinese counterpart (not many explanations to the food).

The good news in the Sun Moon Lake area is that there is an excellent gourmet restaurant around at the competitor hotel of Fleur de Chine. It is about KEN CAN by Ken Chan.

It is the second spot of this three-star Michelin chef at Hotel Palais de Chine in Taipei. If you are a foodie and have only one evening in the area, then dine here! We were delighted by the creative Cantonese set menu (3,980 TWD / 112 SFR/US$) as well as the courteous and informative service.

Looking back and ahead on my Taiwan journey

While this post went into a one-week itinerary of a Taiwan trip in style, the next is dedicated to a two-week one. Whereas the former only goes to the island’s north – yet covers the country’s three major highlights – , the second brings you to whole Taiwan. This longer journey has the same stops as the before mentioned Taiwan one-week itinerary plus three more. I started my reporting on this island with some considerations to make when planning a luxury trip to this island (my post). Two more blogposts to follow will highlight my personal highlights in terms of high-end lodging and (Michelin) fine dining restaurants.

Date of stay: April 2024

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The post Taiwan in style, a 1-week road trip itinerary appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

My husband and I have just returned from another bucket list trip – a round trip in Taiwan! You never know how long this is going to be possible – for a very specific reason. But this is not about politics. Rather, it is about seeing the sights. And this was in our case exploring the country in style. This meant for Taiwan that we went for the best luxury hotels and fine (Michelin) dining, yet always with a look at the price tag. It is our premise not to pay excessive prices, wherever we go. When it comes to the question whether Taiwan is worth traveling to, I can say yes without reservation. Not for nothing it was called Ilha Formosa (beautiful island) by its first discoverers, the Portuguese. Yet there are some considerations make when planning a (luxury) Taiwan trip.

The end result of all this pondering is supposed to be the perfect itinerary (one-week/two-week itinerary) for your personal needs. We come to mine at the end of this post. Yet it is just a quick look at it, details about the different stops follow soon on my blog. First, I go into some general facts about Taiwan that may be of interest for travelers. In further posts to follow, you will find out about my personal Taiwan lodging and dining highlights.

About Taiwan

The bits of information on Taiwan I am going to write about are far from being exhaustive. If you should be interested in more and detailed travel advice about this travel destination, I found Nick Kembel’s websites especially helpful. This Canadian – married to a Taiwanese woman and having two kids with her – lived 15 years in Taiwan (meanwhile he has moved with his family to his home town). Nick Kembel is really very thorough in his reporting about his adopted country. I can assure you that hardly a question about Taiwan in the context of travel will be unanswered. His two sites are called Spiritual Travels and Taiwan Obsessed. Whenever I had a question while preparing our Taiwan trip, I Googled “Nick Kembel” together with the issue I was wondering about. And no, I do not know why he has two websites and not one.

1. Geography of Taiwan

Location/Population

Taiwan, officially the Republic of China (ROC), is an island nation in East Asia. There are conflicting views about whether it is a Southeast or Northeast country. It lies in the Pacific Ocean off the southeastern coast of China, from which it is separated by the Taiwan Strait. Other neighbors are Japan in the north and the Philippines in the south. Taiwan is 35,980 km²/13,892 mile² in size, which makes it a bit smaller than Switzerland (41.290 km²/15,942 mile²). It has around 23.9 million inhabitants, which is a lot more than Switzerland has (8.8 million). Therefore, it is one of the more densely populated nations. And most of the Taiwanese live in the island’s west, where one big city follows another.

Climate/Travel time

Taiwan has a subtropical climate and is very mountainous. It boasts almost 300 mountain peaks over 3,000 m (9.800 ft). There is the Central Mountain Range that runs down the middle of the island like a spine. The best times to come here are either in fall (October and November) or in spring (April). This both due to the weather situation as well as the crowds.

Tectonic situation/Earthquakes

The island is geologically active, sitting on the Ring of Fire. Because of the complex tectonic situation, there are lots of hot springs in Taiwan, but also earthquakes. The most recent one with a high death toll was in 1999 (island-wide, 2,415 deaths, 7.7 M_w). And the most recent major earthquake was the one on the 3rd of April 2024 (Hualien, 18 deaths, 7.4 M_w ). And this was precisely, when my husband and I visited Taiwan! It was at 8 a.m. and lasted for more than a minute. At the time, we happened to be on the 25th story of a hotel high-rise in Kaohsiung, where we felt it moderately strong (the building swayed back and forth). Yet one week before, we were at the very spot where most of the deaths happened (Taroko Gorge). And we had stayed at exact the hotel where hundreds of guests were trapped for several days!

2. Political situation in Taiwan

History in brief

Taiwan is considered as the freest and most democratic country in Asia. While The People’s Republic of China (PRC, short China) claims that Taiwan is Chinese territory, The Republic of China (ROC, a.k.a. Taiwan) thinks otherwise. It sees itself as independent. After the ROC lost in the Civil War (1945-49) to the Chinese Communist Party, its leaders and millions of people fled to Taiwan. From there they planned to take back China, what evidently never happened. Notwithstanding that, Taiwan is still officially called the Republic of China.

Before the ROC arrived in Taiwan, the Japanese occupied it (from 1895 to 1945). After Japan surrendered in World War II, Taiwan was restored to the Republic of China. Japan influenced Taiwan significantly. It built a railway around the country, developed the hot springs and constructed lots of buildings. Also the Japanese cuisine left their traces. The UN stopped recognizing the ROC as the legitimate rulers of Taiwan in 1971, the US followed in 1979. Currently, Taiwan is only officially recognized by 11 countries, most of them smaller ones.

Language/Communication

Taiwan has four official languages, Taiwanese, Mandarin, Hakka (Han Chinese) and the Formosan aboriginal languages (collectively). Although English is not an official language, there is a discussion about Taiwan becoming a “Chinese-English bilingual country” by 2030. Yet, many Taiwanese doubt that this will become true. Most Taiwanese in the major cities know at least some English. The further you go from the metropolitan areas, the less it is spoken. Yet, Taiwanese are open and friendly, and there is always the option to use Google Translate in order to communicate with them.

3. How to get around in Taiwan

Taipei: MRT/Uber

Getting around in Taipei is a breeze thanks to the MRT system. For doing so, you buy and load an EasyCard in any station or convenience store. You can also catch an Uber driver for short distances, as there are many available in Taipei and other big cities. Yet, you also find them in other touristy places in the countryside. We used this service for example in the Sun Moon Lake area when dining out.

Train/Buses

Taiwan’s train system is generally considered modern and convenient enough, although not comparable to the one in Japan. There are far more options to go up and down the island than across. This is because of the Central Mountain Range that divides the island into a western and eastern part. If you plan to travel all over the country, you have to use a mix of train, high-speed rail and bus.

As already mentioned, the Japanese built a railway around the country, which is still running today. It is administered by the TRA (Taiwan Railway Administration). From Taipei to Kaohsiung and all the cities between, you have the additional choice of the High Speed Rail (HSR). It is much faster (and more expensive) than the TRA. However, besides Taipei, their stations are inconveniently located outside of the city center. And it only exists on the island’s west side. For destinations in the Central Mountain Range, i.e. Alishan or Sun Moon Lake, you need to take buses to reach them.

Rental car

As my husband and I traveled all over Taiwan, we had opted for renting a car and driving ourselves. While driving in Taipei is no walk in the park, it is doable in other places. Generally in big cities, you have to be careful because of the many scooters (they have sometimes their own lanes and their own way to turning left at major intersections). If you are driving in the mountains, there are many winding and narrow roads. However, they are well secured with mirrors that show oncoming traffic.

After these more basic facts about Taiwan, now to possible itineraries in Taiwan.

Taiwan 1- to 2-week itineraries

General itinerary considerations when planning a Taiwan trip

As it is a 15-hour flight from Western Europe to Taiwan, it makes sense to spend 14 days here. This if you have a single destination trip in mind. And no worries, Taiwan has so much to do that you can easily spend two weeks here. Alternatively, you can combine a one-week stay on this island with a stopover, depending on your flight arrangements. In our case, we flew via Bangkok/Thailand on the flight to Taiwan and via Hong Kong on our return, although we did not do any layovers. Another option would be adding a short flight from Taiwan to your itinerary. Obvious choices would be Japan, especially Okinawa, or the Philippines. This might be a good idea in particular if you are keen on beach vacations. Taiwan is not really famous for being a destination geared to sun, sand and sea.

Having said that, I would like to emphasize again that there is plenty to see in Taiwan. So, there is absolutely no need to limit your time on this island to only one week! Taiwan is an extremely pleasant travel destination. While it is not exactly inexpensive, it is affordable enough. Public transport is good, and people are amicable. There is a stable political situation (apart from the danger coming from the powerful neighbor across the Taiwan Strait). And you find here a generally high level of safety. Plus, you will not run into Western tourists all the time. Last but not least, it offers the perfect mix of vibrant urban life and lots of natural beauty. The latter you even encounter very close to Taipei.

A 2-week itinerary in general

Two weeks is considered a reasonable amount of time to do a full circle around Taiwan. And this is – I mentioned it before – possible by train. When having this round trip in mind, you have two options: doing it nature-focused or city/culture-focused. As to the former, you spend more time on the island’s east and south. Concerning the latter, you stay longer on Taiwan’s west side. In case you decide on a nature focus you also should head to the mountains, which are in the center stretching from north to south. As there are only some regional trail lines in this area, you also must use buses to get there.

This reveals that opting for the train as your means of transport is ideal for a city/culture focus. It is less so if you want to concentrate on nature. Here it makes sense to consider traveling by rental car. If you do not trust yourself to do this, then there is the possibility to hire a private driver and maybe also a private tour guide (check out Nick Kembel’s advice on this).

If you want to do a luxury trip – meaning staying in luxury hotels and dining in gourmet (Michelin) restaurants – , this complicates the affair even more. While there is usually no problem finding correspondent establishments on Taiwan’s west side, this is not so on the east side. One exception here is the Taroko Gorge. But if you travel from here toward the south in the direction of Taitung, you will encounter difficulties finding suitable lodging and dining. As far as the island’s center is concerned, places to stay and dine in style apart from the Sun Moon Lake area are rare.

Our 17-day itinerary in style

After all these general considerations when making a travel plan for a Taiwan trip, now to our actual itinerary. While we were on route during 17 days, you can shorten the trip to two weeks without any problems. We wanted our journey to be predominantly nature-focused yet with the one or other urban stay. As we like to travel in style, our aim was staying in luxury hotels (my 3 hotel highlights) and dining in gourmet (Michelin) restaurants. And this is not always possible in Taiwan, as outlined. In terms of means of transport, we had opted for a rental car. This because it seemed more convenient to reach all the places we wanted to go.

So, we began in Taipei before heading to the Taroko Gorge in the northeast close to Hualien. We also made a day trip along the east coast going a bit further south from this seaside town. Then we went to the country’s center, to Sun Moon Lake. From here, we explored the wider Alishan region in another day trip too. After that, we drove in the south, the Kenting National Park, before heading back north. This time we traveled along the west coast. Our only stop here was in Kaohsiung, from where we also visited the old city of Tainan. Our last stop was Taipei again, where we had chosen its northernmost district of Beitou as our base. We used it to discover Taiwan’s north as well.

Find here my Google Map of our 17-day road trip journey in Taiwan:

A proposition for a 1-week Taiwan itinerary

There is also the option to make this trip shorter, from two weeks to one. And you can do this by traveling only the northern part of Taiwan. In such a way, you can experience the country’s three major highlights. These are Taipei, Taroko Gorge and Sun Moon Lake. My next post will be about this abbreviated Taiwan itinerary. In addition, you will learn more about the three individual stops. This includes what to see and do, a top hotel on site and some of the best (Michelin) fine dining available.

In another post to follow, I will go into the two-week itinerary. There will be information about the other three stops that are not part of the abbreviated Taiwan travel plan. These especially concern Taiwan’s south, but also a second Taipei stay. This is not the end about my Taiwan reporting yet. Two more blogposts will offer more details about my personal highlights with respect to accommodation and eating out.

Date of stay: April 2024

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Hua Hin, the beach side town south of Bangkok, is known for its night markets. However, if you look for great fine dining restaurants, you are not really spoiled for choice. So, when spending some leisure time here after a Bhutan trip (my posts), I had to look hard for gourmet spots for the three nights my husband and I had here. Finally, I did make some finds that live up to my idea of fine fining in a sophisticated ambiance. Thus, I am able to propose three of the best restaurants in Hua Hin to you.

Before going into the three dining outlets, a few remarks to the town of  Hua Hin in general and about the reason we came here.

Hua Hin as popular beach destination from Bangkok

In case you are in Bangkok and looking for a nearby beach destination, you actually have two options, Pattaya and Hua Hin. While the former is closer to Bangkok (two hours by car), it is predominantly known as party destination. Think in this context of blaring beer bars and neon dance shows. If you are more into laid-back, quiet places, then I definitely would go to Hua Hin. This takes you a bit longer (three to four hours by car), yet it is probably your best choice for beach activities, night markets, spa treatments or golfing near Bangkok.

Hua Hin has become quite fashionable as weekend getaway place for Bangkok residents. Yet also ex-pats like to have a vacation home or to retire here. It actually it is Thailand’s oldest coastal resort. The Royal family made it popular in the 1920s, and they still continue to vacation here nowadays.

Hut Hin as last stop after a Bhutan trip

Hua Hin made the perfect spot for my husband and me when it came to a few leisure days after a Bhutan trip (here you find all my posts about it). Before doing this journey, we also spent a couple of days in Bangkok. In this context, I already went into great fine dining in the capital’s Sathorn District. In case you are wondering about upscale lodging in Bangkok and Hua Hin, here is my post about this topic.

But now to some of the best resaurants in Hua Hin.

3 of Hua Hin’s top fine dining restaurants

I mentioned it already, there is no abundance of excellent fine dining options in Hua Hin. Yet you are not totally at a loss if you are a gourmet stranding here. Sadly, there is no Michelin Guide for this beach resort south of Bangkok. So, I had to dig deep on the internet to find upscale dining spots in another way.

Here is what I came across when doing my research. I start with my absolute highlight here, an upscale Thai restaurant, continue with an high-end Italian dining spot and end with a casual modern Thai eatery.

1. Restaurant Jaras at Hotel Intercontinental Hua Hin

Back story of Jaras, one of the best restaurants in Hua Hin

Restaurant Jaras was originally conceived for the Intercontinental Hotel in Phuket where the dining spot it made into the Michelin Guide. In April 2021, the concept was also introduced at the Intercontinental Hotel in Hua Hin.

Jaras is named after the owners’ grandma, Jaraspim Liptapanlop, who seemed to be a very good cook. As to the family Liptapanlop, everyone knows them in Thailand. The Liptapanlops own the Prayoonwitt Group and made their fortune in the construction industry. Lately, they have been gearing to the property development. Also the Hotels Intercontinental Phuket and Hua Hin are part of their portfolio.

Dining experience at Jaras

Design

Jaras is an intimate restaurant with only a fews tables. There is also a covered alfresco dining available overlooking the beach and pool. As to its interiors, the walls are nicely decorated with hand-painted murals depicting rural Thai scenes.

Food concept

On offer at Jaras is a creative contemporary Thai cuisine. Some of the recipes are inspired by the namesake, the already mentioned owners’ grandma, Jaraspim Liptapanlop. The ingredients come from regional suppliers, including fine caviar from a local farm. Also wine from the nearby Monsoon Valley Vineyard, developing a local wine culture since 2001, is available.

When it comes to what to order, you can choose between a multi-course menu or à la carte. As to the former, there is a 10-course Chef’s Table Menu, which costs 3,488 Baht (88 SFR/US$) including a glass of champagne. If this should be too much for you, go for the 8-course one (2,188 Baht / 55 SFR/US$) or the 5-course one (1,688 Baht / 43 SFR/US$).

In terms of à la carte, starters are from 270 to 680 Baht (7-17 SFR), mains from 350 to 750 Baht (9-19 SFR) and desserts from 230 to 280 Baht (6-7 SFR).

How was it at Jaras?

This was definitely my favorite dinner in Hua Hin as everything was right, from the design of the place to its ambiance to the food. As it was my husband’s birthday, we splurged on the 10-course Chef’s Table Menu.  We were not only allocated the best table at Jaras, but were well cared for throughout the evening by amiable and helpful staff.

All the ten courses, which took inspiration from Hua Hin community traditions, were very good. Among other things, we could also taste the local caviar, which could convince. There was lots of seafood – scallops, sand fish or King Mackerel – , prepared in all possible ways. Yet we were also served meat, above all Thai Wagyu beef with Panang curry. And everything was well prepared and nicely arranged.

We also had the paired beverages, which was an interesting experience as it included different spirits aside from wine – locally grown one too. The one thing that did not go well was the first glass of champagne we got. We had to reject it because it was flat. But that was the only downside. Bottom line, if you look for a restaurant for a special occasion, do not look any further – Jaras is it!

2. Restaurant Zafferano’94 Hua Hin

UPDATE: chef Luca Gavassa left end of March 2024

Back story of Zafferano’94

Chef and owner Luca Gavassa together with sommelier and restaurant manager Davide Lucatello opened their fine dining restaurant in April 2020, precisely when the first Covid lockdown happened. Bad luck for the two Italian restaurateurs! But they did not let things get them down. Both, the chef from the Turin area and the host from the Venetian one, were able to struggle through the difficult times and came out stronger.

Before coming here to Hua Hin’s eat street, Soi 94, both had been working in Koh Samui’s restaurant industry for 20 years, the last ten to them together. After such a long time at one place, they needed a change of scenery and headed to Hua Hin to open their upscale Italian dining spot.

Dining experience at Zafferano’94, one of the best restaurants in Hua Hin

Design

The restaurant is a dream in purple, inspired by the saffron crocus, Zafferano in Italian. The flower’s color, from which the most expensive spice is derived, is present all over the place. Purple is reflected in the table runners, the water glasses, the pictures on the walls, on diners’ plates etcetera.

Zafferano’94 features a bright, elegant dining room where you can watch the action in the kitchen through a glass separating panel. In addition, there is an undercover alfresco dining terrace plus a bar/lounge for drinks.

Food concept

On the menu you find refined Italian food. They reinvent traditional centuries-old recipes using modern cooking techniques and preparations.

The food journey started with tomato bruschetta on the house. For starters (from 280 to 380 Baht / 7 to 10 SFR/US$), my husband and I had Burrata Caprese (burrata cheese with tomato) and Carpaccio di Vitello alla Piemontese (veal carpaccio with parmesan). We continued with Risotto ai Porcini and Ravioli al Tartufo, Gorgonzola, Porcini e Noci (truffle ravioli with blue cheese, porcini and nuts). Those were from the entrées section (from 390 to 490 Baht / 10 to 12 SFR/US$).

Alternatively – or in addition if you are very hungry – , you can choose from the mains (490 to 980 Baht / 12 to 25 SFR/US). This is about meat and fish only. A favorite here seems to be the Ossobuco alla Milanese. It is a classic of Lombardy, veal shanks slowly cooked and served atop saffron risotto. Or you can build your own pizza (starting from 260 Baht / 7 SFR/US$).

As to desserts, you find here the usual ones plus a lesser known one (Bonet Piemontese, a hot chocolate cake with amaretto). Prices range from 60 (one scoop of ice cream) to 220 Baht (2 to 6 SFR/US$). While some dishes are always on the menu, other parts of the menu change regularly.

How was it at Zafferano’94?

While we were the only guests on a hot evening during Songkran Festival (Thai new year) until shortly before we left, there was no shortage of staff. Host Davide ran the front of the house in the most excellent manner together with an apprentice. And chef Luca skillfully delivered his fine Italian fare with the assistance of another cook.

My husband and I liked not only the immaculately prepared and nicely presented Italian classics with a twist but also the upscale ambiance at this chic place – from which you cannot find many in Hua Hin outside of high-end hotels. And the host is such a nice person, yet discreet enough not to be too talkative – in light of us being the only guests most of time.

3. Restaurant Braça at Hotel The Standard Hua Hin

Back story of Braça

Set in the buzzy surrounds of the newish (opened December 2021), super-cool Hotel The Standard, the Thai Izakaya Praça Restaurant suits just right. Praça – opened at the beginning of 2022 – is Portuguese for plaza, a local meeting place, and you actually see here all sorts of people. There is young trendy folk but also well-heeled couples and families.

Chef Prasertchai “Jacky” Trongvanichnam, a former Iron Chef champion who has worked at top hotels and restaurants in Thailand and the USA, is at the helm at Praça.

Dining experience at Braça, one of the best restaurants in Hua Hin

Design

Inspired by beach clubs of the Mediterranean, Praça is set in a restored heritage beach house equipped with an expansive verandah and breezy oceanfront.

As to seating areas, you have everything from an expansive veranda to a shady terrace for alfresco by the beach and indoor dining spaces. Although the latter is rather on the small side. The atmosphere here is relaxing, sharing style and lively.

Food concept

As I already hinted, it is about Izakaya, in Japan a casual drinking establishment also serving small dishes. It actuals means “stay-drink-place”. And food is thought to be shared.

Chef Jacky, trained in classic French cooking, showcases a unification of his western foundation, artisan local ingredients and favorite Thai street food flavors. He has composed an innovative menu with a fresh and playful feel. It includes tapas (160 to 290 Baht / 4 to 7 SFR/US$), flame-grilled food (160 to 360 Baht /4 to 9 SFR/US$), bowls, (260 to 360 Baht /7 to 9 SFR/US$) rice as side dish (80 to 90 Baht / 2 SFR/US$) and desserts (160 to 170 Baht / 4 SFR/US$).

How was it at Braça?

My husband and I had a seat on the verandah, which we considered as the ideal space for the not–so–young anymore. There are fans to make it more pleasant in case it is hot. And that was the case in April when we went.

Service was young, friendly and helpful, we felt well at ease. While Praça definitely has a nonchalant dining vibe, it was always attended to professionally.

Foodwise, we shared two Tapas (Miang Kham, Esan Tuna), Yum Som-O From the Fire, a Bowl (Khao Pad Nuea Yang), two Spoons (rice) and two Sweets (Waffel I-tim cha Thai and Hua Loy). Every dish followed the kitchen’s concept of traditional Thai recipes with a twist. Everything we had was well made and tasty. Only the grilled black tiger prawns were a bit mushy.

Overall, Braça is the perfect spot to go for modern interpretations of Thai food in a casual Izakaya style. And its front sea setting in a heritage beach house is hard to beat!

Looking back to my Thailand/Bhutan posts

This post about the best restaurants in Hua Hin is the last one of my Thailand and Bhutan reporting. As to the former, I started with possible pre-/post Bhutan travel plans, and that was in our case Thailand, i.e. Bangkok before and Hua Hin afterwards. Then I also looked into some of the best upscale Thai restaurants in Bangkok’s central business district of Sathorn.

Should you be show any interest in Bhutan, I wrote about the following topics: travel guide, 9-day itinerary, touring Bhutan by arrangements of luxury hotels operating here, Bhutan travel with COMO.

Date of visit: April 2023

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Bangkok is for sure one of the foodie’s capitals in the world. And so my husband and I made sure that we could try out some of the best what Thailand’s capital has to offer in terms of Thai fine dining on our recent stay. As we happened to reside in the Sathorn District (find more details about it below), it had to be here. I do not see the point in heading further if you are spoilt for choice as to excellent dining-spots in the area. And this is definitely the case in Sathorn which has some of the best Michelin restaurants.

After some information about Sathorn and our post-Bangkok travel plans, I come right to the fine dining places we had chosen for our three nights in Bangkok.

About Sathorn District

Sathorn, also written as Sathon, is one of the city’s major business districts. It stretches from the Lumpini Park to the Chao Phraya river and from the Sathorn Road to the Chan Road. You find here many high-rise office buildings that house banks and other financial institutions. While Sathorn is not exactly known for its tourist attractions, it still makes a good base for exploring Bangkok’s highlights. In addition, there are lots of great hotels, restaurants and nightlife outlets. And the good transport links here make it easy to get around.

Bangkok as starting and end point for a Bhutan trip

Bangkok was for my husband and I the ideal springboard into a Bhutan trip, for which we had been waiting three years (because of COVID-19). If you should be interested in my Bhutan reports, I made following posts: travel guide, 9-day itinerary, travel plans of luxury Bhutan hotel brands, COMO Bhutan journey and pre-/post Bhutan stays.

As to the last mentioned one, we stayed in Bangkok before going to Bhutan, as you know by now. When returning from this trip, we added some beach days in Hua Hin, located three hours by car south from Bangkok. In case you care for fine dining recommendations in this seaside resort, my next post will go into them.

Three fabulous Michelin listed/starred Thai restaurants in Sathorn

As I mentioned above, some of the best Michelin restaurants are to be found in the Sathorn District. Quite a few even have Michelin stars. So it is no easy choice! My husband and I decided to include only places that serve Thai food. On our first visit in Thailand, we wanted to savor exclusively local cuisine. In addition, we were reluctant to spend a fortune doing so (as there is an abundance of less costly outlets).

After a thorough research we settled on the following ones. As we stayed at the COMO Metropolitan Hotel, which houses the Michelin one-star Restaurant Nahm, this one was set. We had eaten at Nahm London quite some years ago – when it still existed – , and had liked our experience here. However, I have to admit, I was a bit deterred by the not so good Google reviews (4.0) of its Bangkok branch.

Further on, we opted for Restaurant Saawan offering modern Thai cuisine. This dining spot seems to be a fixture on the local gourmet scene, although since recently with a new chef. For our third night, we got a bit adventurous and also chose Samrub Samrub Thai, from which we found not much info on the internet. At this place, they rethink old Thai recipes in creative ways.

Now to the details of each!

1. Restaurant Nahm at COMO Metropolitan Hotel Bangkok

Back story of Nahm, one of the best Michelin restaurants in Sathorn

Restaurant Nahm gained fame when it was named best Asian restaurant by the World’s Best Restaurants award in 2014. At the time, it was under the lead of David Thompson, an Australian who has dedicated himself to the Thai cuisine for many years. I was lucky enough to have dined at his London branch before he closed it in 2012 and moved to Bangkok. Here he received a Michelin star in 2017 when Michelin first included restaurants in Thailand’s capital. Then, one year later, David Thompson left for Hongkong.

At Nahm Bangkok, Pim Techamuanvivit, a female chef from San Francisco, took over in 2018. The Bangkok-born chef had left behind a career in Silicon Valley to open her own Thai restaurant in San Francisco, Kin Khao. And it was awarded a Michelin star only 18 months later! While still living in this city on the U.S. West Coast, she also holds the position of an executive chef at Nahm.

It seems that the restaurant’s style has not much changed since Pim  has been in charge. However, she has more turned to Thai artisans and small-scale farmers and fishermen to source ingredients. The eatery is still recognized by the World’s Best Restaurants award (No 98 of the Asian list) and also kept its Michelin star.

Dining experience at Nahm

Design

I liked the restaurant’s interiors with its extraordinary design. There are massive pillars, mirrored after Ayutthaya’s architecture, the second capital of the ancient city of Siam. This feature combined with hand-crafted wooden screens and bare wooden tables create a harmonious whole, which is contemporary yet with a traditional touch too. Onsite, you also find an outdoor poolside terrace. That suits the restaurant’s name, Nahm means “water” in Thai.

Food concept

As to the food, you get here a modern take on traditional Thai cuisine. Curries, salads, relishes, soups and stir-fries are on offer. And these often come with traditional ingredients which are not so frequently used in other contemporary Thai restaurants.

You can either opt for the menu or eat à la carte. The former is called “heritage” and costs 3,200 Baht (82 SFR/US$). If you prefer vegetarian fare, this is available as “botany” for 2,600 Baht (66 SFR/US$). As to the latter, starters are available from 400 to 780 Baht (10 to 20 SFR/US$), mains from 540 to 920 Baht (14 to 23 SFR/US$) and desserts from 350 to 375 Baht (9 SFR/US$).

How was it at Nahm?

While we generally liked what we got – especially the canapés (blue swimmer crab on rice crackers and miang of prawn, chicken and fruits)

were excellent – , service could have been better. After taking our order, staff did not show up at our table for quite a long time. While everyone around us got dish after dish, one hour passed until we got our first one. At some point, my husband inquired about the delay, but the server did not respond properly.

Once the round finally started, there was an ongoing coming of plates. And many came at the same time. We felt rushed and it totally lacked the magic of a typical tasting menu. And imagine, the dinner came to an end with the last dish being served less than one hour from its start.

On the positive side, at some point of time, a friendly female maître d’ appeared at our table to chat to us. We first thought that it was because of our complaint that we had made shortly before with a colleague of her. Yet it was unconnected. When she left, she casually said that she would check on our food as it seemed to be overdue.

2. Restaurant Saawaan Bangkok

Back story of Saawaan

Restaurant Saawaan – which means “heaven” in Thai – was opened in 2019. Shortly afterwards, it got a Michelin star and was holding it until 2022.  After the departure of chef Sujira “Aom” Pongmorn, it was gone yet the dining spot is still listed in the guide. And it is also featured on the World’s Best Restaurants Discovery list.

Since mid 2022, chef Saritwat “Earth” Wanvichitkun has been in charge here. He was born in Phuket and grew up in a family who owned a restaurant. From his mother he learned the art of cooking (Southern) Thai. As to western cooking techniques, he studied four years at Le Cordon Bleu Bangkok. Before being named as chef at Saawaan, Earth was executive chef at Restaurant Nitan in Phuket, which made it into the Michelin Guide in 2021.

Also at the helm at Saawaan is Arisara ‘Paper’ Chongphanitkul, who looks after the desserts here. She is the co-owner of ICI, a creative pastry café too.

Dining experience at Saawaan, one of the best Michelin restaurants in Sathorn

Design

The restaurant is housed in a converted shop house in a leafy alley off Sathorn Road. The window spans the entire front of the building, which is a good thing as the interiors are rather dark. The dining room is contemporarily styled, with brown bare wooden tables and a dark wooden floor. On the walls you find gold colored wallpaper adorned with branches full of white flowers. In addition to the circa 24 seats there is a counter where cold food is prepared in front of the guests (no seats here).

Food concept

On offer at Saawaan is modern Thai cuisine. The specialty here is that every dish focuses on a typical technique or concept of the traditional Thai cooking. And this always with a creative flair. One dish showcases for example grilling, the other stir-frying and yet another one fermentation.

On our evening, an eight-course tasting menu was served, showcasing following methods: raw, fermented, boiled, Miang (wrap), charcoal, stir-fried, curry and dessert. Ingredients were generally locally sourced. And a nice feature was that often a chef came to our table to give the finish to the dishes in front of our eyes.

There is a sole menu at your disposal, which costed 2,490 Baht (63 SFR/US$) on our visit. As I noted, it is now priced at 2,790 Baht (71 SFR/US$), which I still find reasonably priced for what you get.

How was it at Saawaan?

This was most probably my favorite dinner in Bangkok as the overall experience was very rewarding. Not only the service was impeccable, but the food was surprising, innovative and full of flavor. I only wish that we had not asked them for toning down the spiciness of the food a bit (they inquired whether they should do it nor not). Because I felt that it lost at times some of its magic as a consequence. Be it as it may, it was still great.

You definitely never got bored here as there is always something going on. It is great to watch the chefs and servers how they do a part of the preparation process in front of you. It is a fun affair and gives you the chance of occasionally asking a question.

My favorite dish at Saawaan was the curry. It was a green one paired with a Madame Burgaud Challans duck.

In order to produce the curry paste chef Earth combined ten different types of Thai chillies what resulted in a deep and well-rounded curry.

I also liked the dessert, a reinvented version of the classic Thai dessert of a steamed pandan layered cake. It was complemented with jasmine ice cream and black rice sauce.

3. Restaurant Samrub Samrub Thai Bangkok

UPDATE: one Michelin star as from December 2023

Back story of Samrub Samrub Thai

Samrub Sambrub Thai is run by a husband-and-wife team, Prin Polsuk and Thanyaporn “Mint” Jarukittikun. And interestingly enough, the former’s history is linked to the above mentioned Restaurant Nahm. He used to be David Thompson’s protégé, entrusted with heading Nahm London and Bangkok.

In 2017, Prin Poluk and his wife founded Samrub Samrub Thai in order to give lost Thai dishes a new life. First, they pursued their project in the form of pop-ups. Later on, in 2019, they moved to fixed quarters, to a small place with 16 seats only. And the eatery was well received. So, in November 2022, they moved one more time. And this to the current location in Saladaeng, with some more seats available. This is actually his wife’s childhood home, and her family still lives above. Prin Polsuk himself is from Chiang Mai in Thailand’s north, growing up in a family of farmers. If you wonder about the outlet’s name, Samrub means “menu” in Thai, but is it also something special.

In this year World’s Best Restaurant Asian list Samrub Samrub Thai ranks No 82. As to Michelin, the dining spot also made it into this guide in spring 2023.

Dining experience at Samrub Samrub Thai, one of the best Michelin restaurants in Sathorn

Food concept

Prin Polusk made it his mission to revive old recipes. For this he rummages through antique cookbooks and tries with perseverance and vigor to unravel its secrets.  At the same time, he is open to new culinary developments and incorporates them in his cuisine. The result is true Thai food “rethought”.

Apparently, dishes change every month and rarely ever repeat. On offer is a set menu – priced at 3,900 Baht (99 SFR/US$) – , which is served family style. And much appreciated by us, you get here one course after the other. In such a way, you can savor each one individually and you do not have to rush through the meal.

Design

The dining spot is located in a quiet residential area not far from lively Sathon Road. Everything looks new here at this at this large, white four-floor building. Once you walk through the door, you catch sight of a small open kitchen plus a long counter that can seat up to twelve guests.  In the rear, there is room for about ten more seats at tables. The room has an industrial-chic vibe, most is kept in black and white.

How was it at Samrub Samrub Thai?

The whole shebang

First of all, you have to know that it is difficult to get a reservation at Samrub for international guests. This because there is neither a website that deserves the name nor an easy way to make a reservation. You have to get in touch with them via Facebook or Instagram to make a booking request. Once you get an answer – which may last a while – , you have to pay the menu price in advance via bank transfer, for either the round at 5.30pm or at 8pm. Apparently, they are in the process of improving their booking and payment system to accommodate international guests too. Let us see what happens.

Unfortunately, we had another issue with the place. It seems they do not make it easy to love them. When we arrived here a few minutes before 8pm, all counter seats apart from two were already taken. And when we were discussing with Mint (the wife) about our seating – she allocated one of the tables in the rear to us where you are not able to witness the happenings in the kitchen – , the remaining seats were taken by other guests. Thus, we had no other choice than to become seated where she wanted us to do in the first place. At least we could make her let us sit side by side for better views.

Food & service

After we had overcome the initial obstacles, the dinner proceeded in an excellent vein, providing us with fantastic food and faultless service. All the courses – one snack, three starters, six main courses, one dessert, one petit fours – were amazing. I cannot name a personal favorite. Every single bit was scrumptious, full of taste and lingered long in our memories.

While the setting was rather casual, we felt quite at ease – the bench in the rear of the room was not overly comfortable. While the dinner went on, the chefs kept coming to our table to explain something related to the dishes served. And the meal sequence was just perfect. Also the chef was present and changed a few word with his guests – not to us “farangs”. However, his wife Mint, treated us warmly and made our dinner pleasant, although we had made a bit of trouble at the beginning (seating).

Samrub Samrub Thai would have easily made it our restaurant favorite in Bangkok if there had not been the mentioned issues!

What is next on my blog?

I already let you know that we not only made a “foodie tour” in Bangkok’s Sathorn in search of the best Michelin restaurants, but also went further south. And this to the beach resort of Hua Hin, the “darling” of many “Bangkokians” looking for a quick getaway. Said that, it was far more difficult there to find fine dining restaurants worth visiting for gourmet minded people. Nonetheless, we found some great places, although we had to move away a bit from our principle of only eating Thai food on our first Thailand stay!

Date of visit: April 2023

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Is Bhutan on your bucket list for your next vacations? Then I have not only lots of travel information about the Land of the Thunder Dragon for you (see next section), but also suggestions where to go for a pre- or post-Bhutan stay in style. Doing so is for all those a necessity who come from a distant country of origin. When my husband and I went to Bhutan recently, we flew via Bangkok. Thus, we opted for staying in Bangkok before flying to our final destination. On our return to Bangkok, we drove on to Hua Hin, a seaside resort south of the capital, for a few quiet days on the beach.

After a short look at my Bhutan mini series, you will find more details from which cities you can get to Bhutan (Bangkok is not the only option). Plus, there will be some advice where to stay at great luxury hotels in those places. Then I come to the actual topic, my pre- and post-Bhutan stays in Thailand.

My mini series about Bhutan

As announced, there is more content on my blog about visiting Bhutan. I started with a travel guide, continued with a perfect 9-day itinerary and informed about touring the country by arrangements of the three luxury hotel brands operating here. As we had opted for COMO as a provider – alternatives are Aman or Six Senses – , you learn in a further post how it was. And just now, I am setting the end point of my Bhutan mini-series, detailing opportunities for ideal pre and post travel plans.

From where to fly to Bhutan?

As mentioned above, you can fly to Bhutan via Thailand. When my husband and I did this at the beginning of April, there were no direct flights from Bangkok. Instead, the plane made a short stop in Dhaka/Bangladesh – where you could stay on board. At the time, you could only fly to Bhutan once a day, and this starting at 5 am and landing in Paro/Bhutan at 08.30 am. The flight was carried out by Drukair, one of two airlines flying to the Land of the Thunder Dragon.

Alternatively, you may fly into Paro from India. When doing so, you may choose between Delhi, Kolkata, Guwahati and Bagdogra. As I can safely assume that the first one is your best choice as a Westerner, here are suggestions as to where to stay in Delhi. And when you are in the area, do not miss a side trip to Agra/Taj Mahal. This is such a worthwhile thing to do!

Another option is it to fly via Singapore. Here is advice which hotel to choose here as a discerning traveler. Finally, you may fly to Bhutan via Kathmandu/Nepal (where I have not been to).

Pre- & post-Bhutan stays in Thailand

As my husband and I have never visited Thailand before, we appreciated the chance to get to know this destination a bit more. We settled for three nights in Bangkok and four nights in Hua Hin, a beach town in Bangkok’s south. While this may sound of quite long stays for stopovers, it actually was not. This because of two reasons. First, we had to leave our hotel in Bangkok at 2 am in the morning of our third night to catch our flight to Bhutan. Second, after returning to Bangkok from Bhutan, we only arrived at our hotel in Hua Hin at 9 pm.

While Bangkok was given as pre-Bhutan stay from the outset,

we thought longer about our post-Bhutan one. We contemplated flying to Kos Samui (flight time 1 h 05 min) or Phuket (flight time 1 h 20 min), Thailand’s most popular vacation destinations. Yet, we were daunted by the thought of more flights. As to upscale beach towns not too far away from Bangkok, there is not much around. Pattaya Beach, the city of sins (2 h by car), was not really an option for us. So, we decided to give Hua Hin (3-4 h by car) a try.

A pre-Bhutan stay in Bangkok

We had heard much about Bangkok, the good and the not so good. Yet, we were positively surprised about its vibe. Of course, it is a modern city nowadays, with lots of skyscrapers and traffic. Yet, if you search hard enough, you find some glimpses of the “old” Bangkok too. While traffic is bad at many times, the drivers are usually well behaved. And yes, at the beginning of April, we had already missed the best travel time for Bangkok (November to February).

When it comes to staying in style in Bangkok, there is an immense number of options. I have not really looked into it as our hotel was fixed from the beginning. Only so much, if I were free to choose I would opt for a luxury hotel by the river

not far away from the Grand Palace and Wat Arun (maybe Mandarin Oriental, Four Seasons or Capella). In our case, we made use of a special combination offer by COMO Hotels and Resorts (our choice for Bhutan lodging). Actually, we had two nights free at their Bangkok branch, COMO Metropolitan. And here is how it was.

Hotel COMO Metropolitan Bangkok

As I outlined above, booking COMO Bhutan for your touring the Land of the Thunder Dragon comes along with special rates at COMO Metropolitan Bangkok (just send COMO Buthan an email). My husband and I happily took the occasion as we had liked our stays at other COMO branches (London, Miami).

COMO Metropolitan Bangkok was built in 2003 and last renovated in 2016. It is a modern high-rise building with 11 floors featuring 169 rooms.

Location

While I rate its location in the central business district of Sathorn as good, I personally think it is better to stay near the Chao Phraya river. This allows you not only to see river life close up but also brings you in proximity to ferries. And traveling on the water is often faster and more relaxing than by other means of transport in this city plagued by traffic. And the latter is especially bad on Sathon Road, where the COMO hotel is located. That said, it is situated in a quiet side street where you are not exposed to noise.

Whereas you need about 40 minutes to reach the river by foot, you are only ten minutes away from the nearest metro station (MRT, Blue Line, Lumphini). Plus, there are numerous great restaurants nearby. And one of the best rooftop bars in town, the Moon Bar at Banyan Tree Hotel, is just round the corner.

Rooms/Pricing at COMO Metropolitan Bangkok

You find quite a wide range of room categories at COMO Metropolitan Bangkok: City Room (26-39 sqm, from 123 US$), Studio Room (43 sqm, from 138 US$), Metropolitan Room (51-54 sqm, from 146 US$), Terrace Room (80 sqm, from 174 US$). Plus, there are three different kind of suites. Price wise, you get away inexpensively. This is especially true compared to luxury front river hotels just as the three I mentioned above. These will easily cost you double or triple.

As mentioned, we spent three nights here, at a discounted rate. And we had a Metropolitan Room Twin.

Metropolitan Room

Our room was on the highest floor with a beautiful view of the central business district of Sathorn.

As to its style, it is sleek with clean lines and neutral colors. While it is predominantly kept in a western style, you also find the one or other eastern accent.

The bathroom is spacious, with the same view as the bedroom. There is a large open shower and a separate tub, all in limestone.

Unfortunately, there is only one, rather small sink, although you could have made two of them without difficulties (enough space).

My husband and I felt at ease here as the room was generously sized and offered lots of natural light from the floor-to-ceiling windows.

Ambiance/Staff at COMO Metropolitan Bangkok

There is an atmosphere of calm and pleasant minimalism throughout the property. As to the rooms, you clearly notice a western vibe yet discreetly paired with eastern touches.

Staff at the reception and the doormen were friendly, helpful and attentive. When it comes to the restaurant (Nahm, modern Thai), I have mixed feelings. As to breakfast, we had no issues.

Dinner was a bit different. While everyone around us got one dish after the other, we had to wait one hour for our amuse bouche. When we inquired about the delay, we got an unsatisfactory response from the waiter. Once the dinner (tasting menu) finally took off, there was an ongoing coming of plates (many at the same time). And the last one was served in less than an hour from the starting time! This is not what a tasting menu is supposed to be! On the positive side, food was good.

Plus, at one time, a friendly female maître d’ came by the table to chat to us.

Facilities/Restaurants 

On site you find a wellness center, the largest of all COMO city hotels. It comes with ten treatment rooms, a 25 m/82 ft outdoor lap pool, a fitness room, a yoga studio, steam rooms and hydro pools.

As to dining at COMO Metropolitan Bangkok, I already mentioned their one and only restaurant Nahm. You get here a modern take on traditional Thai fare. I will go into this Michelin one-star restaurant in more details in a separate post to come about fine dining restaurants in Bangkoks’s Sathorn district.

A post-Bhutan stay in Hua Hin/Thailand

Before singling out Hua Hin as our destination for a relaxing time on the beach after our Bhutan journey (see above), I have never heard about this place. As I learned later, the rather provincial town of Hua Hin has become a popular getaway for both locals and tourists. And this not least to its easy accessibility from Bangkok.

What once began as a quiet fishing village, turned into a summer retreat for Thai royalty in the early 20th century and later also drew Bangkok’s nobility. Nowadays, lots of upscale second homes line the beach front.

As to the latter, it does not earn a prize for being one of the most beautiful ones in Thailand, yet it is not too bad either. The most known is Hua Hin Beach, which stretches for about 5 kilometers (3 miles). It is nice for a long walk, although, in certain parts, much of the beach disappears during high tide.

Aside from being a beach resort, Hua Hin is known for its night markets, numerous golf courses and wellness offers. If you want to do some sightseeing, I would not qualify it as super ideal for this purpose.

As to staying in style, there are some places that fall in this category. Yet, you are not really spoiled for choice here. Now to where my husband and I resided during our four-night stay, and this was at The Barai.

Hotel The Barai Hua Hin/Thailand

While The Barai was opened as standalone luxury hotel and spa in 2007 by Hyatt Hotels, it became affiliated with the adjoining Hyatt Regency Hua Hin Resort in 2012. It is very boutique, with eight suites only.

Location

The Barai is situated about 4 km/2.5 mi south of downtown Hua Hin. I would not encourage you to walk to the town center as the way leads along the busy, nondescript main road. However, you might think about doing so along the beach, for which you need about an hour.

By car, you reach downtown in about ten minutes, but only if traffic is light. This may not be the case on evenings and weekends.

As to other attractions nearby, there are two night markets, open from Friday to Sunday. On the one hand, there is the Cicada Market for predominantely non-food products like art, jewelry, clothing and handcrafted things. On the other hand, you find here the Tamarind Market for foods.

Rooms/Pricing at The Barai Hua Hin

There are eight suites in four two-storey villas.

In case you opt for downstairs (The Barai Pool Suite) as my husband and I did, you are in for a verandah,

plunge pool and garden.

If you go for upstairs (The Barai Balcony Suite), you have a balcony (5 sqm) with sea view.

Both have in common 101 to 144 sqm of space, an oversized king bed (3 m/10 ft wide!),

an entry hall with daybeds, a dining area as well as separate coffee and tea stations,

a huge bathtub with two oversized daybeds,

two individual walk-in closets with bathroom for him and her and a sizable shower (with steam function).

Included in the room rate are a butler service, a daily 60-minute massage treatment for two, an in-suite aromatherapy steam and milk bath (prepared by your butler), laundry service for two items per day, as well as full breakfast, all-day beverages, pre-dinner drinks and snacks (all served at Restaurant McFarland House).

The total package is really impressive! The Barai Pool Suite (101 – 124 sqm) is available from 541 US$, The Barai Balcony Suite (144 sqm) from 495 US$. Another accommodation is also part of the The Barai, the Presidential Pool Villa. It is suitable for a maximum of six adults and comes with a private pool, garden and beach as well as kitchenette, study room and dining table for eight persons (434 sqm, rate upon request).

Ambiance/Staff

As a guest at The Barai, you have to check-in and check-out at the “regular” Hyatt Regency, all the rest is separate. On the hotel’s premises, you also find a restaurant (McFarland House, see below), which is – of course – open to the public. It is the place where you have breakfast when staying at The Barai. Those from other parts of the Hyatt premises may also do so if they wish, but not within a bed and breakfast package. On our four breakfasts, there were never many other people around. It always felt quiet, as it was the case throughout The Barai property. It really had an exclusive feel!

What stood out at The Barai was the excellent butler service. Their staff already got it touch before our stay to arrange bookings for the included daily massage. After check-in at the main reception, a butler picked us up and gave us all the necessary information on the hotel. Every morning, someone from them checked on us during breakfast. When our daily massage came up, one of the team appeared to accompany us to the spa. They also reconfirmed our dinner reservations, organized transport to the restaurants and picked us up to bring us to our car driver.

As to the other staff, the one at the McFarland House was friendly enough. At the spa, we only had contact with the masseuses, who were immaculate (the administrative part at the reception was done by our butler).

Bottom line, it was a very pleasant stay in beautiful and serene surroundings, being pampered all day long!

Facilities/Restaurants

As I already mentioned here at several occasions, the spa plays an important role at The Barai. The name goes back to barays, large reservoirs created by the Khmers for use of their daily life. They were considered as life-determining, yet also a source of their spiritual wellbeing. Here at The Barai, these barays are remembered, both in the construction of the spa

and the tranquility court, a 30 m-/100 ft-long unique swimming channel in a court.

As to the spa treatments, they marry traditional Thai rituals and innovative western therapies. 18 single and double treatment rooms are on offer here at this maze-like red building, where the light is caught to reflect the elements of earth, water, air and fire. All the massages we experienced here were expertly executed, enhanced by the building’s special architecture.

The restaurant on the premises, McFarland House, was already a topic in other sections of my post. It is a two-story pavilion on the beach front, dating back to the 19th century.

It was home of Dr George Mc Farland, a man of many merits for Thailand. Parts of his original house were incorporated in the new building. It is a casual all-day dining venue. On the menu you find modern comfort food plus some healthy options. My husband and I only had breakfast here, which was enjoyable. We especially liked the Energy Bowl, the freshly pressed juices and the inventive egg dishes.

It goes without saying that you can also make use of the facilities and restaurants at the other Hyatt hotels onsite. Yet, we did not see the need to do so as we had with The Barai the perfect sanctum of serenity at our disposal. That said, we ventured to town to have dinner. A future post will go into three fine dining spots we visited.

Looking back and forward on my blog

This was the last of five posts on my Bhutan travel reporting, which went into following topics: travel guide, 9-day itinerary, travel plans of luxury Bhutan hotel brands, COMO Bhutan journey and pre-/post-Bhutan stays.

As announced, there will be some more information about Thailand. As my husband and I are serious foodies, we made sure that we enjoyed ourselves in this respect in Siam too. Find more about our culinary Bangkok and Hua Hin adventures soon on my blog.

Date of visit: April 2023

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After giving an overview on the three luxury hotel brands with multiple locations in Bhutan, now to one of them. It is about Hotel COMO Bhutan, the choice of my husband and myself for our recent stay in the Land of the Thunder Dragon. It consists of two hotels, which are part of a family-owned group of hotels and resorts worldwide. In the following, you will learn how it is traveling the Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan on a journey arranged by COMO. In this post, the focus will be on the properties, the hotel life and the organization of the trip. As to the itinerary, I already went into this topic earlier on my blog (a perfect 9-day Bhutan itinerary).

Before delving into the COMO Bhutan properties plus another affiliated one, first to two other things. First, a look at my mini series about Bhutan. Second, a short introduction into the luxury hotel brand of COMO Hotels and Resorts.

My mini series about Bhutan travel

This very post is the fourth in my mini series about traveling Bhutan, the mystic land in the Himalayas. The first was a travel guide, followed by the above mentioned itinerary and the overview on luxury hotel brands operating in the field of multi-destination journeys. Next on my blog, opportunities for a pre- or post-Bhutan trip will set an end point to my Bhutan mini series.

Backstory of COMO Hotels & Resorts

COMO Hotels and Resorts is a Singapore-based company with a portfolio of 16 properties worldwide to date. It was founded in 1991 by Christina Ong, born out of a simple need. She sought an intimate hotel in London, which was stylish yet also intuitive and discreet. At the same time, it should have a sense of place, but also with a distinct and personal character. Furthermore, she wanted this hotel to have a restaurant with healthy and high-quality food. So, she brought COMO The Halkin on a quiet street in Belgravia to life.

This was also the first property of this luxury hotel group where my husband and I stayed at. And this already on two occasions (my post). We also spent some time at their hotel in Miami Beach.

Furthermore, we already had booked a stay at COMO The Treasury in Perth/Australia before we had to cancel it because of the COVID-19 pandemic. And we also know COMO Metropolitan Bangkok, where we resided prior to our Bhutan visit (more follows soon on my blog).

While all the 16 COMO Hotels and Resorts share the same values, they honor their respective location. Their portfolio consists of island resorts, hotels in urban heritage buildings and two boutique brands, COMO Metropolitan and COMO Uma. As to the Metropolitan properties, I already mentioned the one in Bangkok. There is one city hotel more, and this in London. With regard to the Uma brand, it is about small resorts with adventurous locations. Bhutan has two of them, in Bali there are two more.

COMO Hotels and Resorts Bhutan

In contrast to its competitors of Aman and Six Senses (see my comparison), COMO limits itself on two properties only. One is in the Paro Valley near the country’s only international airport, the other in Punakha Valley.

When my husband and I booked our Bhutan journey about four years ago (initially for April 2020, finally postponed to April 2023), Hotel COMO Bhutan partnered up with a hotel in a third valley, the Gangtey respectively the Phobjikha Valley, at the time. Nowadays, this option is no longer listed on their homepage. Instead, they offer as third accommodation a stay at a fully serviced overnight camp.

Now to what to expect when staying at following three hotels: COMO Uma Paro, COMO Uma Punakha and Gangtey Lodge. For our Bhutan travel plan, check out my perfect 9-day-itinerary in a separate post. Regarding tour organization (journey with a private guide), there will be more information under point “4. COMO Bhutan private tour organization”.

1. COMO Uma Paro

Location

This is the COMO property first opened in Bhutan, and this back in 2004. It nestles on a hillside, among a pine tree forest, with a fabulous view of Paro Valley. You can reach it in only ten minutes from the airport, the last bit is on a rough road through the forest.

Rooms/Pricing at COMO Paro

29 rooms are available, including nine villas. As to the rooms, you can make your choice out of three categories: Forest View Room (25 sqm, from 530 US$), Valley View Room (32 sqm, from 675 US$) and COMO Suite (95 sqm, from 915 US$). In terms of villas, you may opt either for the One-Bedroom Villa (92 sqm, from 1,100 US$) or the COMO Villa (300 sqm, from 1,850 US$). Dinner is included in the prices mentioned.

My husband and I spent four nights here, two to start our COMO “journey”, two to end it. The first time, we stayed at Valley View Room, the second time – we were granted an upgrade because we had been holding our reservation for three years, paid in advance – at a One-Bedroom Villa. Here are the details.

Valley View Room

While this room is not exactly spacious, it is practically furnished, and this in a traditional Buthanese style. There is a small balcony from which you have a great view of the Paro Valley.

Artisan-crafted woodwork and hand-painted walls add to the rustic character of the guest quarter.

The bathroom is not large yet features a tub and a separate shower.

All in all, you find here everything you need as a demanding guest, but you definitely cannot call it super luxurious. And it is a bit on the cramped side.

One-Bedroom Villa

Too little space is for sure no problem at the generous One-Bedroom Villa. Ours even had a second bedroom (king bed) with its own bathroom.

All the villas are situated in the pine forest, at a good distance from each other. That comes along with no view of Paro Town or the Valley. However, you enjoy here lots of privacy.

Apart from the sizable bedroom

there is a living room appointed with a dining table and a Buthanese Bukhari (fireplace).

Adjacent to it, is a small kitchen with a second (butler) entry. The One-Bedroom Villa has yet another room, where treatments can take place (we did not have this one, but as mentioned a second bedroom).

The bathroom is huge, coming with double sinks, a free-standing tub, a closet, a separate shower and toilet plus a comfortable seating area.

And there is a large outdoor area, the so-called verandah. As to the decor, it it similar to the above mentioned Valley View Room. An additional feature are the hand-knotted rugs from Nepal. Residing at a One-Bedroom Villa also has the benefit of a personal butler service.

Ambiance/Staff at COMO Paro

On our first stay, there was lot going on at the hotel because we happened to be here during the Paro Festival. Staff was friendly yet sometimes a bit stressed. Instead of an à la carte service at the restaurant there was a buffet to help yourself from it.

When we returned on the end of our Bhutan trip, there was “courant normal”. It was a less hectic atmosphere yet there was not really a contemplative mood. Probably, the hotel is not small enough to provide a calmer state as it is the case at the sister hotel in Punakha. While service was hospitable and polite, it was sometimes a bit on the impersonal side, especially at the reception desk.

The General Manager (for both COMO hotels) showed presence on both our stays. He is clearly dedicated to his job yet has a bit of a didactic nature and seems always to be very busy.

The last evening we spent here, was not overly pleasant. When we arrived for dinner, only one of the Bukharis (Buthanese fireplaces) in the public spaces was lit. So, it was quite cold not only at the restaurant, but also at the bar and in the lobby area. As a consequence, we had to settle near the reception – by the only lighted fireplace – to have an after dinner drink.

Facilities/Restaurants

COMO Uma Paro is the hotel group’s flagship lodge in Bhutan. The main building used to be the home of a Buthanese nobleman, and it really is quite a sight. Onsite you find two courtyards, an upper and lower one, an indoor pool,

a Shambala Retreat (spa), a fitness room,

a yoga studio, meadows, woodlands, a plant garden and an archery ground.

As to dining, there is the Bukhari Restaurant inside a round building, which also seems to be a favorite of the king.

They serve Western, Indian and Buthanese dishes here, made from organic and locally sourced produce. And we usually liked what we got, opting almost always for Asian food.

Maybe it was sometimes not spicy enough. But we often felt at hotel restaurants in Bhutan that they play it safe when it comes to this. You have to know in this context that Buthanese people like their food very spicy. So, I think they “tone it down” sometimes a bit too much, at least for our taste. And one more thing, the hot dishes on the buffet service (only during Paro Festival) were consistently not hot enough!

In case you care for small bites, you can also have them at the Uma Bar. Here you get all-day dining, and you can also book the premises for private gatherings.

2. COMO Uma Punakha

Location

This is the second and last COMO property in Bhutan to date. It was opened in 2012, yet apparently it was originally meant to do so in 2004, together with its sister hotel in 2004. From what I heard, the worldwide financial crisis of 2008 impeded this.

The hotel is set in a terraced hillside at the western end of the Punakha Valley, a lush, subtropical vale. From here, you overlook a bend in the Mo Chhu (Female) river. COMO Punakha is pretty remote, which is a major part of its charm. You reach it from Paro in a four- to five-hour drive.

Rooms/Pricing at COMO Punakha

It is an intimate place, with elven rooms only. There are eight rooms and two villas.

There is only one accommodation category, the Valley View Room (27 to 34 sqm, from 675 US$). As to the villas, there is a smaller (51 sqm, price to be inquired) and a larger (90 sqm, price to be inquired). The rates include the dinner.

My husband and I spent two nights here. It was the second stop of our COMO “journey”. And we had a Valley View Room.

Valley View Room

While there is only one room category, the accommodations slightly differ depending whether they are on the ground floor or one below. The former have large French windows – which can only partly opened – , the latter a balcony. The rooms on the ground floor benefit of a wider view, also to be enjoyed from the shower.

Some of their counterparts one floor down may do so from the tub.

I liked the room better than the one at Paro (of the same category). This because it feels airier and has a lounge area from which you can take in the fabulous views of terraced fields and river. As to its furnishings, it is similar to the one at its sister property, although of more recent date. The room shares the same somewhat minimalist style yet it feels cozy after all.

Ambiance/Staff

I preferred the ambiance at COMO Punakha over the one at Punakha. It was much more serene and calm than the rather busy one at the sister hotel. Right when stepping through the entrance gate, you could feel it. It seems like the quiet of the surrounding nature casts a spell upon everyone, the guests yet also the staff.

As to the latter, service was immaculate throughout our stay. Often when returning from an excursion, one staff member magically shows up bringing along your room key right to the entrance! Yet everywhere on the premises it made the impression that they could read every wish from your eyes. The praise includes the resident manager, a lovely Thai lady, who regularly enquired how we were doing.

Facilities/Restaurants at COMO Punakha

The hotel is not as well equipped as its sister property in Paro. For example, it does not feature a pool. This not only in contrast to COMO Paro, but also to the other luxury players on site. Although, you find here a COMO Shambala Retreat (spa). Here it is highly recommended to have a Buthanese traditional hot stone bath.

The restaurant goes under the same name as the one in Paro, Restaurant Bukhari. Apart from a dining room there is also a nice outdoor area. The same is true for the adjoining bar/lobby.

As to the culinary aspect, the offerings are similar to those at its sister hotel in Paro, yet I found the cuisine here a tad better.

I especially was more in favor of the breakfast you get in Punakha. There is no buffet, everything is served. The daily baked pastries, the lassis of the day or the hot item options just as the ricotta French toast were just great!

3. Gangtey Lodge Gangtey/Phobjikha Valley

The Gangtey Lodge in the Gangtey respectively Phobjikha Valley is not part of COMO Hotels and Resorts. Yet when we booked our Hotel COMO Bhutan “journey” (see concept/itinerary), there was some sort of collaboration.

It actually is one of the few independent boutique lodges in Bhutan, established in 2013 by owners Khin Omar Win and Brett Melzer.

Location

When approaching, it does not become clear at first sight that a hotel awaits you here. This because the Gangtey Lodge is designed in harmony with the local village and the 17th-century monastery, which are both just a short walk away. The building looks like a traditional farmhouse, albeit a grand one.

You are here at the beautiful Gangtey or Phobjikha Valley, as it is known formally. It is about a wide glacial vale full of meadows and farmland, bounded by the Black Mountains. The remote area can be reached from Punakha in a three- to four-hour drive or directly from Paro in four- to five-hour drive.

Rooms/Pricing at Gangtey Lodge

There is only one room category, the Farmhouse Suite (46 sqm). And you find only 12 of them here.  Just as at COMO Punakha, you are in here for an intimate ambiance. In terms of rates, they start at 660 US$ (half board) respectively 720 US$ (full board).

Farmhouse Suite

This was definitely the most beautiful (and largest) room of our Bhutan trip, featuring a large lounging area, fireplace and freestanding tub. It is kept in a Buthanese style, coming with dark nature tones and cozy fabrics.

And the views are commanding, from the valley over to the village and the monastery. Plus, the room has underfloor heating, and the bathroom is spacious.

Our room was on the lower of two floors in the house north of the main building. For best vista, I would recommend an accommodation on the upper floor at the other guest quarters, nearer to the Gangtey village and monastery.

While I was very much in favor of our room’s look, I was not overly satisfied with some practical aspects. Among other things, you could not open the windows properly as the tub in front of it hinders doing so.

Ambiance/Staff

It is an extremely hospitable hotel. Upon arrival, the general manager, Anja Zok, a nice Polish lady, welcomed us at the entrance. She gave us a present, a traditional ceremonial scarf, and accompanied us to the main lodge. Here staff greeted us with a song, a welcome drink and a shoulder massage. I could not imagine a much better start!

Also what followed, was persuasive. Staff tried their best to make us welcome on every occasion. When coming back from a hike, they offered to clean our hiking boots. Or they asked after dinner whether they should light a fire at our room’s fireplace. And Chef Soh, the long time cook here, went to great lengths to stand by my side because of digestion problems I had at the time. Kudos to the team!

Facilities/Restaurants at Gangtey Lodge

There is a double-height lobby/lounge/dining room with big picture windows

allowing a stunning view of valley,

village and monastery.

Here you also find two big inside/outside stone fireplaces, which makes the terrace usable year-round.

This central meeting point is open from early in the morning until late in the evening. You may show up here whenever you feel like it, for just sitting here by the fire or for meals.

There is a bath house where you can try out a hot stone bath, an ancient Buthanese bathing ritual. Or you can choose from a number of massages. You also find an archery ground on the premises. In addition, there is an array of options to immerse more in the environment, be it in the areas of nature, spiritual, dining and culture.

As to dining, I already informed you about the location and the chef, now it is about the food. You eat here well. For dinner you can either order the “Southeast Asian Set” or choose from an à la carte menu with western and Asian dishes. As to breakfast, you can help yourself from a small assortment of continental breakfast items on a table. Plus, there is a limited à la carte menu to choose from (no sweet options).

4. COMO Bhutan private tour organization

After outlining already several times in my Bhutan reporting about traveling this country via a private guided tour by one of three luxury hotel brands (my post), now to some details how it is doing so with COMO Hotels and Resorts. For the itinerary we chose, check out my corresponding post.

The Hotel COMO Bhutan tours usually include accommodation (full board), a private guide and driver for transport and excursions, all fees and one massage. In addition, this provider can also handle the necessary Bhutan visa and flights via Druk Air or Bhutan Airlines on their customers’ behalf. So, it is actually an “all inclusive” arrangement.

If you should not find your desired itinerary on the COMO Bhutan website, you can also get in touch with them to plan a tailor-made journey.

Our COMO Buthan private guided tour

On our 9-night-itinerary, Kuenzang (guide) and Damchoe (driver) were assigned to us.

While the former is permanently employed by Hotel COMO Bhutan, the latter is a free-lancer. We were told that there are no fixed guide-driver teams at this provider. Instead, they constantly make new pairings. As to the one we got, we could not have been more happy!

While our travel plan was set, there was still room for changes to be made. My husband and I, for example, asked for walking the area whenever possible or not to start too early in the morning, if not necessary. And Kuenzang happily complied with our wishes.

As to his way of touring, he is an easygoing, humorous person yet also showed seriousness when indicated. Of course, he has a wide knowledge as to Bhutan, but he shared it with us on a bit-by-bit basis without overwhelming us. He always was super friendly, helpful and considerate. We would not have wanted anybody else to show us around in Bhutan! And his grasp of English is excellent.

As to our driver, Damchoe, he is nice person too. Whereas he rather stayed in the background, he chatted with us occasionally (never while driving), and was always gracious. And the most important thing of all, he turned out to be an excellent driver!

Postscript to our guide Kuenzang: guiding besides COMO Bhutan

Kuenzang Tobgay offers his services as a tour guide also as a free-lancer. And he is able to put together tours for visitors looking for good hotels without wanting to spend a fortune too! If you should be interested in exploring Bhutan with him – highly recommended – , contact him on Instagram or Facebook.

Looking back and forward on my blog

My Bhutan mini series started with a travel guide, followed by a perfect 9-day itinerary and an overview of travel plans offered by the three players in the country’s luxury hotel segment. And the current post focuses on how it is traveling the Land of the Thunder Dragon with COMO Hotels and Resorts. Next on my blog, I will go into possible pre- and post-Bhutan stays. This because it is usually not possible to directly fly into Druk Yul from more distant destinations.

Date of visit: April 2023

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The post Traveling Bhutan with a private guided tour by COMO luxury hotels first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Traveling Bhutan with a private guided tour by COMO luxury hotels appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

If you think about traveling Bhutan in style, you might have come across the one or other luxury hotel brand that offers private guided tours in this country. The most known name in this context is probably Aman Bhutan, yet also Six Senses Bhutan might have caught your attention. There is one more, COMO Bhutan, which my husband and I chose for exploring this fascinating Himalayan kingdom. Originally, our trip should have taken place in spring 2020 yet we had to postpone it until spring 2023 – because of the COVID-19 pandemic. Find in the following an overview how the three big players in Bhutan’s luxury travel segment compare to each other, also price wise.

Before delving into the topic, a quick look at the blogposts that I have already done about Bhutan and what still follows in this respect.

My mini-series about Bhutan travel

A travel guide made the start, followed by the perfect 9-day-itinerary in Buthan’s west, the country’s heartland. This very post shall be about what the three luxury hotel brand of Aman, Six Senses and COMO Pura have in store for discerning travelers who plan to travel The Land of the Thunder dragon. Then I will of course inform about how our journey with our choice of hotel (COMO) was. And finally in a post to come, there will be information about possible pre- and post-Bhutan stays as it is usually not possible to fly in directly from a more distant country.

Bhutan travel in general

Already before the Covid-19 pandemic, Bhutan had a reputation of being an expensive travel destination. Its motto always was “high value, low impact”, and this meant great benefits for travelers but also high revenues from tourism without causing too much damage by it.

While this certainly is a good stance in view of the overtourism in many popular places, it did not stop there. When the country reopened to tourism in September 2022 after the pandemic, a major overhaul of its already strict tourism regulation came into effect. For details, refer to my travel guide. In short, foreign travelers are now charged a 200 US$ fee per person per day for sustainable development (SDF)!

It goes without saying that this pricing makes a trip to Druk Yul unaffordable for most travelers. And this might be true for many well-heeled ones too. I am not sure whether my husband and I would have come to Bhutan if we had to pay 3,600 US$ for just spending nine days here. Fortunately, we had an “old booking” (pre-pandemic), so we did not fall under this new travel rule.

In this context, you also have to consider that before the pandemic more than 70% of the tourists were Indian residents. And this country is exempt from this tourist fee. So, you cannot help but asking yourself why the group that makes the most impact should not contribute their part too. But it is complicated, Bhutan depends on India in many areas.

After having established that a Buthan trip is going to cost you a lot, now to travel arrangements here (private guided tour) by a luxury hotel brand.

Bhutan travel plans set by luxury hotels (Aman, Six Senses & COMO)

As hinted, three international luxury hotel brands have ready made – and also bespoke – travel arrangements for Bhutan on offer. This is about Aman Bhutan, Six Senses Bhutan and COMO Bhutan.

Competitor comparison at the time of our booking

When my husband and I booked our Bhutan journey about four years ago (for spring 2020), we opted for COMO. This because we knew and liked the luxury hotel brand from stays at other locations (my posts: London, Miami Beach). And we were in favor of their itinerary as it offered lots of opportunities to explore the Land of the Thunder dragon by walking.

Of course we had also checked out its competitors, Aman and SixSenses. Yet, the latter was still completing their market entry (first lodges in 2018, opening Gangtey and Bumthang branches in 2019). And we were not overly inclined to play guinea pigs. Although, I have to admit, the individual properties looked – still do – absolutely stunning.

As to Aman, we were tempted to book with them, yet the price tag was higher (nine nights costed about 20,000 US$ for two persons, COMO was priced at 13,351 US$). In this context I have to mention that Aman scored better – still does – in several aspects. Yet, you have to weigh it up.

How the big three – Aman, Six Senses & COMO – compare to each other

As mentioned, my husband and I did not have to pay the new tourist fee (SDF: 400 US$ for two per day) on our recent Bhutan stay (because of our “old booking”). Once back home, I was wondering how much a trip would cost in 2023 in case of a “new booking”. Thus, I did the math for all the three players in the luxury segment, i.e. Aman, Six Senses and COMO.

Before it is about money, I want to have a closer look at the threesome’s appearance in Bhutan. It goes without saying that I only have a closer insight of COMO, although we had the one or other look at Aman or Six Senses properties from far away.For this reason, I will refer to two bloggers who stayed at Aman Bhutan respectively Six Senses Bhutan.

I start with Aman, continue with Six Senses and end with COMO. From this threesome, Aman has the most transparent offer plus you can book their “journeys” (private guided tours) online. As to Six Senses, you can see room prices (full board, without SDF) online, yet not book them. When it comes to “journeys”, there are detailed descriptions, yet the pricing has to be enquired. COMO is yet another case. Room bookings are possible online, but only with half board (without SDF) . As to “journeys”, you can find a range of example ones online (with starter prices).

Aman Bhutan essentials

Aman Bhutan goes under the name of Amankora, which can be translated with “peaceful pilgrimage”. Together with COMO, it was a pioneer in terms of luxury travel in Bhutan. In 2004, these both high-end hotel brands opened their first properties in the Land of the Thunder Dragon, and this in Paro.

Through the years, Amankora grew to five hotels. Properties in Thimphu, Punakha, Gangtey (Phobjikha) and Bumthang were added to the portfolio. All in all, 72 rooms are now available, from what you can conclude that the individual hotels are small.

Just as Amankora’s competitors, they offer a multi-destinations itinerary through the Kingdom of Bhutan. For stays of seven nights and more, a tailor-made travel plan is included in the room rate. It covers everything from accommodation, full board, private transport with a driver and guide, entrance fees to attractions, laundry plus one 60-minute spa treatment. Even house wines and spirits are included at Aman. And this makes a bit of a difference as wine is extremely expensive in Bhutan.

I will not go more into details, only two more remarks. All five lodges seem to share the same basic room layout and design. And only one property features a pool (Punakha). The least expensive room is already on the spacious side (from 52 sqm). And from what I read, they have a communal dining approach at Amankora. For more information, check out the post from a fellow blogger about his (pre-pandemic) stay at Aman Bhutan.

Six Senses Bhutan essentials

Six Senses was not exactly a pioneer in terms of Bhutan travel, as you know by now. They only started in 2018 and actually copied what Aman did before. They chose the same locations and kept their lodges at a similar size (five properties with 82 rooms).

Exactly as Aman and COMO, multi-destinations itineraries for exploring the Land of the Thunder Dragon as its fullest are available. And they include everything that was mentioned above under Aman. This except alcoholic beverages, yet the non-alcoholic ones are part of it (as to the massage and the laundry, I did not find any indications).

In terms of rooms, Six Senses Bhutan seems to feature the most luxurious ones of the threesome, at least from pictures. And of course they are also the newest (lodges opened in 2018/19). Plus, the least expensive room is also rather sizable (60 – 73 sqm). As to pools, two hotels have them. As far as dining is concerned, it does not look like they are into communal dining. If you care for more details, here are (pre-pandemic) posts from a fellow blogger about three properties (Paro, Thimphu, Punakha).

COMO essentials

In contrast to the competition, COMO only has two hotels, one in Paro (opened in 2004), the other in Punakha (opened in 2012). While the former has quite a number rooms (29 units) – it is actually the largest of all the threesome’s properties – , the latter is small (11 rooms). There is a general manager for both hotels, residing in Paro.

If you care for more destinations than two – highly recommended – , it seems that they partner up with other providers. In our tour – booked pre-pandemic – , they offered lodging for the Phobjikha (Gangtey) Valley, and this at the Gangtey Lodge. Currently, I could not find “our” itinerary online. Instead they have travel plans on offer where you stay at a fully serviced overnight camp in addition to their two locations.

COMO’s multi-destinations Bhutan itineraries include everything what Aman does with the exception of the laundry and the beverages. For both, you have to pay extra. As to the rooms, they are well-appointed, but of average size (the second least accommodation – Valley View – measures 32 sqm) and not recently updated. If you care for a pool, the Paro property has an indoor one. And dining takes place at a “normal” restaurant (no communal dining).

For more details about both COMO properties plus Gangtey Lodge, my next blogpost will go into this topic.

Price comparison for multi-destination Bhutan itineraries in 2023 at Aman, Six Senses & COMO 

It is no easy thing to do a price comparison for the three big players regarding their offers for multi-day travel plans in Bhutan. If you decide to base it on online research only, you cannot help including some estimates. In case you do want more specific indications, you have to start an enquiry with the hotel in question. This is especially true for Six Senses, but partly also for COMO. As to Aman, I must sing my praises for their rates transparency!

Find in the following what I found out price wise about a tour in the low season (high season is from March to May and from September to November). Be advised, that it is about approximate starting prices, all in. That means accommodation, full board, beverages (alcoholic with Aman, non-alcoholic with Six Senses), driver and guide, entrance fees, laundry (Aman), one massage (Aman, COMO) are covered. I also added the SDF and the visa fee as well as service charge and sales tax, where necessary. But of course I cannot take any guarantee for the correctness of the information.

For a seven-night tour for two – subject to all the mentioned conditions – , expect to pay from 17,894 US$ with Aman, 14,055 US$ with Six Senses and 12,372 with COMO. Please take note, this is for the Bhutan “journey” only, without any flights. And the greatest uncertainty with the accuracy is in the case of Six Senses, as elaborated above.

Overall (price) comparison touring Bhutan with Aman, Six Senses and COMO

If you want to travel the Kingdom of Bhutan in style, you have to be ready to dig deep into your pockets. Should you ask the question whether it is worth the expense, there is no easy answer. The Land of the Thunder Dragon is for sure an exclusive, remote destination. You have to look far to find another desirable country that is lesser traveled than Druk Yul. And it definitely is a place of longing where you can make experiences that are second to none. And that is for once not an empty phrase!

Yet on the negative side, a Bhutan trip comes with a hefty price tag! And the new Sustainable Development Fee (SDF) of 400 US$ for two per day does not help. Especially if you take into account that this Himalayan kingdom was already an expensive destination without it!

Looking back and forward as to my Bhutan posts

As to my previous Bhutan content, I started with a travel guide, continued with a perfect 9-day itinerary and now compared the three luxury hotel brands in Bhutan offering multi-destinations tours. Next on my blog, you will get insights how it is traveling the Land of the Thunder Dragon with COMO, one of the three big names in the country’s luxury travel sector. And the mini series will find an end with a fifth blogpost going into possible pre- and post-Bhutan stays, as there are usually no direct flights possible from further away.

Date of stay: April 2023

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The post Which luxury hotel brand to choose for a private guided tour in Bhutan first appeared on Swiss Traveler

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