Now it is about two more “Fingers of the Peloponnese Hand”! In this context you have to be aware of the fact that this most southern part of mainland Greece is like a left hand directed downwards. In the paragraphs to be followed I go into the “East/Monemvasia Finger” and the “Middle/Mani Finger”. The “Peloponnese Hand” is where my husband and I went end of October last year. Traveling this Greek region steeped in history was a rewarding thing to do! And tourists at this time of the year were not plentiful. Find details of the whole trip in the next paragraph. After this, I will let you know what to do plus where to go for best hotels and (fine-dining) restaurants in the mentioned “Fingers”.

Before elaboration further, there is again my Google Map of our Peloponnese and Athens itinerary. It comes with all the upscale lodging we stayed and the (fine-dining) spots we ate.

Peloponnese & Athens in style, the itinerary overview

My travel report is split in four parts. My last post – part one – went into the trip outline, some general information and the first “Peloponnese Finger”, the “Thumb”. The latter is the region of Argolis with the town of Nafplio. Part two is the present one with the “East or Index Finger” and the “Mani or Middle Finger”. Region wise it concerns Laconia first of all. As to part three, the focus is on the “West or the Ring Finger”, the Messenia region, plus Olympia and the mountainous Arcadia region. And part four is about Athens.

While my husband and I did a road trip in the Peloponnese (part one to three), we were stationary in Athens. Throughout my reporting, you will learn about where to go for the best upscale hotels and restaurants. No easy thing in the Peloponnese I can tell you! However, in Athens, it went smoothly. Furthermore, I will let you know about some major sights everywhere we went (part one to three). In addition, you will also find some walking/hiking suggestions, as we like to explore the area on foot (part one to three).

From place to place in the Peloponnese, part II, “Peloponnese East & Mani Fingers”

1. “Peloponnese East Finger”

A good base on the “Peloponnese East Finger” is Monemvasia, a dramatic place just off the coast. When driving here from Nafplio, we did a stop in Tyros, a small, charming seaside town. It is great for a short walk along the beautiful pebbled beach. And Café Zorbas is good for a drink.

About the “Peloponnese East Finger”

Monemvasia

The absolute highlight on this “Finger” is Monemvasia, without any doubt. Nothing prepares you for the sight of this (almost) inhabited rock rising out of the sea. It is often compared to the Rock of Gibraltar, although it is only a fraction of its size. Yet it is still just as dramatic. Locals call this place “The Castle”, but it actually is a stunning fortified town. This medieval place comes with castle walls (lower town) and a fortress on the top (upper town). While the former is well-kept,

the latter is mostly in ruins, expect the Church of Hagia Sophia.

It is well worth climbing up to the upper town, not only to see the ruins but also for the views of the sea and the town of Gefira.

Find here the link to a hike leading around the rock and through both the upper and lower town. Recommended places for small bites in the area are Emvasis Café in the lower town and  Bakery Angelakos, south of Gefira.

Further activity “Peloponnese East Finger”

We did one more activity on the “Peloponnese East Finger”, and this was a walk/hike in its very south. It starts in a remote fishing village

leading along the beautiful coast. Nearby is also the Geopark of Agios Nikolaos, a petrified forest. While we did not have time to visit this attraction, it might be worth doing.

When being in the area and longing for fine pastry, head to Laconia’s capital, Neapoli Vion. Here you find several establishments offering such treats. My husband and I opted for this place and very much liked what we got!

Our hotel: Kinsterna Monemvasia, one of the best hotels on the Peloponnese East Finger

Hotel Kinsterna is the only five-star accommodation far and wide. That is not all, it really is a dreamy property! This fort-like manor is perched up high on the hillside a short stretch down the coast from the Monemvasia Castle. It has origins dating back to the mid 17th century. When the current owners purchased the estate in 2002, it was in bad shape. Since 2006, it underwent renovations and reopened in 2010, restored to its former glory.

Out of the 52 rooms, my husband and I opted for a Premium Residence. These rooms offer much space (35-42sqm)

and come with a large terrace

as well as a marble bathroom.

Ours had a view of the gardens, which was nice. As to the decor, it was a lovely mix of traditional and modern elements. The one thing that we did not like so much was that the room was a bit dark. The daily rate amounted to 452€ with breakfast.

In terms of restaurants, there are two onsite. It is about the all-day Mouries and the Linos Tavern, which is only open seasonally (on certain days). We had dinner at the former once, but we did not return as the experience disappointed (mediocre food, inconsistent service). However, breakfast was a different affair with lots of choice and pleasant staff.

Otherwise, the facilities at Kinsterna are great. You find here two pools and an extensive activity program. And the staff was generally friendly and well trained.

Our restaurant: Athivoli Monemvasia, one of the best restaurants on the Peloponnese East Finger

As we were not in favor of the restaurant at our hotel (see above), we dined elsewhere. And Athivoli,

a tavern on the coast south of the Monemvasia Castle, turned out to be a hit! On two occasions, it persuaded with well-made Greek cuisine that came with a modern twist now and then. I very much liked the starters just as fried local cheese (8€) or roasted aubergine (7€). Also the spinach salad was a good choice (10€). When it came to mains, we did not try out the meat dishes, but only had fish and seafood (15 to 18€). Yet these dishes were made with quality ingredients and immaculately prepared. And they were accompanied by original sides. The two desserts we had, Ekmek Kataifi (6€) and Lemon Pie(7€), were equally fine.

As to the setting, it was the most cultivated ambiance we encountered in a Greek tavern during our 17-day stay in this country. And the service was friendly and accommodating. We even got a gratis after-dinner liqueur on our second visit!

2. “Peloponnese Mani Finger”

On the transfer from the “East Finger” (Monemvasia) to Aeropoli and surroundings – where you find the most lodging options – , it makes sense to stop in Gythio, a picturesque coastal town. It is the capital of the so-called Lower Mani. If you have a sweet tooth, this patisserie makes heavenly pastries!

And also have a look at the Dimitrios Shipwreck on Valtaki Beach.

About the “Peloponnese Mani Finger”

Why Mani deserves a special mention

The “Mani Finger” is definitively something special! Whereas in other parts of the Peloponnese you find lovely landscapes with olive-studded hills and villages of golden stone, this is different in the Inner Mani (south of Areopoli). Both the land and people are austere. Stark, treeless mountain, stone fields and stone towers shape the landscape. Mani is home to the Maniots, known as fierce warriors, who used to fight seemingly endlessly about water and land. They built stone houses with castle-like towers, and this often in almost inaccessible hillsides.

It was not until the 1970s, when the national government reduced the local autonomy in Mani. From then on, new roads were constructed to bind all the towns to civilization. While this was the start to touristic development, mass tourism has not (yet) reached this part of the Peloponnese – and hopefully never will! For me, Mani is the most beautiful part we encountered here. It is different, wild, harsh, sometimes dismissive, but also authentic, relaxed and friendly.

What to do in (Inner) Mani

Touring the Mani villages

The unique combination of rugged landscapes, small villages with ancient tower houses (called pyrgospita) and remote, narrow beaches has its unique appeal. A good idea to get an impression of the Inner Mani is to go on a car tour. Here is a suggestion for a half- to full-day trip: Pirgos Dirou (Diros Caves) – Charouda (Temple of Taxiarchis) – Drialos (Church Agios Georgios) – Mezapos (Chalikia Beach) – Kato Gardenitsa (Church Naos tou Sotira) – Gerolimenas (beautiful coastal town, Restaurant Veludo, KaSeas Boutique Hotel) –

Vathia (tower houses) – Marmari Beach – Porto Kagio – Kokinogia (one-hour walk to Cape Tainaron Lighthouse) – drive back along the Mani east coast (towns with imposing tower houses: Lagia, Exo Nimfio and Flomochori / beach stops: Kokala Beach, Kontronas Beach).

Other things to do in Mani

We did not the above mentioned walk to Cape Tainaron but instead chose the one to Tigani Castle more northwest. And this was a rewarding thing to do! This estate in ruins sits on a spectacular peninsula that looks like a frying pan, which is actually its name in Greek. You have stunning views all the time, and you can roam around the ruins of a medieval fortress. Historians have varying opinions about this place (if it is the mysterious Grand Magne or something different). Anyway, it is fun exploring it a bit. Here is the link to this walk/hike, starting from the village of Agias Kiriakis. On your return, you could also do a detour to Church Panagia Agitria (maybe add another 50 minutes for walking).

Instead of making the above side trip, we shortly visited the village of Mezapos with its Chalikia Beach (see also above chapter). We had viewed it from Agios Kiriakis and wanted to see it up close. And we had two more places on our agenda which you should not miss on your Mani trip, Aeropoli

and Limeni.

he former is Mani’s capital and has a nice old town with its characteristic tower houses. Not far from it you find the port of Limeni, more a hamlet around an idyllic cove.

Our hotel: Aria Estate Mani, one of the best hotels on the Peloponnese Mani Finger

For quite some time we struggled to find a hotel to stay in style in the Inner Mani. As we were here at the beginning of November, many lodgings had already closed down for the season. Finally, we were fortunate to happen across Hotel Aria Estate! It is remotely situated on a hillside facing the sea, about 8 minutes by car either from Aeropoli and Limeni. What a gorgeous property it is! I was excited from the beginning when driving down the driveway.

And my enthusiasm lasted until our departure three nights later!

First of all, I adored the hotel’s fantastic setting and its tranquil vibe. Then I was fond of its layout and construction, an array of stone houses made in the typical Maniot architecture. It was built in 2018 and has 15 rooms. We opted for the top one-bedroom accommodation, the One Bedroom Superior Seaview Jacuzzi (48sqm, 340€ with breakfast per night). It is a dreamy place! It consists of a bedroom, a living room with a wet bar, a balcony and a terrace with a jacuzzi.

What a great thing to experience the sunset from here! I also liked the interiors, which are airy and all kept in bright colors. While the bathroom is not overly big, it was okay for the two of us.

The female hotel manager seemed to have a firm hand on the estate. She was always present to guide the staff (not all had a good command of English) and to take care of the guests. On site you also find two pools – one outdoor,

the other in the spa.

And there is a restaurant, more about it below.

Our restaurant: Horizon at Hotel Aria Estate Mani (Instagram), one of the best restaurants on the Peloponnese Mani Finger

It was impossible to find a similarly good dining spot as Restaurant Horizon at our hotel (see above) in the area. At least that was true at the beginning of November when some spots had already closed for the season. We dined here three times and found it to be one of the better eateries we had on our Peloponnese stay. And the (à la carte) breakfast at Horizon was definitely the best we experienced on our Greece journey (including Athens)!

On offer here is high-quality Mediterranean fare with a creative twist, here and there with a focus on local food. The dinner menu features starters just as sea bass carpaccio (15€) or local cheese croquettes (14€) and two salads (12€). For mains think of a regional chicken dish (18€) or shrimps with local pasta (20€). Desserts include their take of Bougatsa, a Greek custard pie, (10€) or more international choices just a chocolate mousse with ice cream (12€). When dining here three times in a row, there was enough variation in choices to prevent repetition.

The setting at Restaurant Horizon is nice with white linen-covered tables in the evening. Al fresco dining would have be an option on our stay, but we found it too chilly outside. And on one or two evenings, it also was quite cool inside as they let the entrance door as well as the terrace door open. Yet Horizon is not an exception in this regard, Greek people seem to love draughty restaurants … Staff was friendly and helpful but not always experienced, which however was not a major issue.

Looking forward and back to road trip in the Peloponnese in style (Part I, III & IV)

I started in the last post with an overview of the whole 17-day Peloponnese and Athens journey. In addition, i informed about some things to know when coming to this southernmost region of Greece, especially in fall. Plus, I began with part one of four in total, the “Peloponnese Thumb”, that is Nafplio and the Argolis region. As in all parts, I advised on some major sights including suggestions for walks/hikes. And as my husband and I look out for the best high-end hotels and restaurants everywhere we go, this topic is always covered in my reporting. Here in this very post, it was about the “Peloponnese East Finger” around Monemvasia and the “Peloponnese Middle or Mani Finger”. Part three will focus on the “Peloponnese West Finger” (Messenia)

and the mountain region of Arcadia.

Part four finally will go into a city-stay in Athens.

Date of stay: November 2024

Pin it for later

The post 14 days on the road in the Peloponnese/Greece and a short stay in Athens in style – PART II “East & Mani Fingers” first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post 14 days on the road in the Peloponnese/Greece and a short stay in Athens in style – PART II “East & Mani Fingers” appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Seeking sun and warmth in Europe late October, my husband and I headed to the Peloponnese. We wanted to spend a fortnight in this most southern part of mainland Greece, followed by a three-day stay in Athens. Imagine it was our first visit to Greece ever. So far, we had thought it to be too touristy. Yet word had reached us that the Peloponnese with its wealth of historic treasures was not so, at least in fall. Thus, we set out to discover this piece of land. And it did not disappoint! While it was not always easy to find opportunities to stay and dine in style here, we managed somehow. Find out in my posts to come about our itinerary, what to do and where to go for best upscale hotels and restaurants in the Peloponnese. Of course, Athens is also part of my reporting – no problems here if you are looking to treat yourself! After outlining the whole trip in this post, I start with part one, the “Peloponnese Thumb”.

Before delving into the topic, first a few lines about the Peloponnese as a travel destination. And what to expect when vacationing here in fall.

Peloponnese as a travel destination

The southernmost region of Greece, less than an hour from Athens, is known for many things. It features not only untamed nature, pristine beaches and remarkable mountain peaks and villages, but also has an exceptionally rich history and culture. Think in this context of great archaeological sites just as Olympia or Epidaurus dating back to the ancient Greeks. Yet there is more, Greece also experienced the Byzantine era or a Venetian interlude. And it endured long periods of Ottoman rule too. All this thousands of years of civilisation left behind remnants in the Peloponnese ready to be explored!

Main sights: “Fingers & Palm of the Peloponnese Hand”

Funnily enough, we all have a map of the Peloponnese. Just point your left hand to the ground, and there you have it. Your “Thumb” is Argolis with the beautiful town of Nafplio and Epidaurus. As to your “Index or East Finger”, it is where you find Monemvasia, a fortress town. Your “Middle Finger” is the Mani peninsula with its typical town houses and rugged nature. And your “Ring or West Finger” is the fertile Messenia with Kalamata, one of the bigger towns in the Peloponnese. As far as your small finger is concerned, it is beyond my knowledge where this is supposed to be. Finally, in your “Palm” lie Olympia, Sparta or Mystras, all historical sites, and the mountainous region of Arcadia.

When & how long to go to the Peloponnese

In terms of best travel time for the Peloponnese, April to June as well as September and October are good months. It is too hot in July and August, and high summer is the busiest season too. My husband and I went in the last days of October until mid November. The latter month is said to be often unstable weatherwise and is gradually getting worse. And I can confirm this. The first days were the warmest. The nights increasingly became colder, and the winds intensified. However, it was almost always sunny and warm enough in day time.

If you want to go to the Peloponnese in late fall, I suggest that you better chose the last two weeks in October. That comes with the additional benefit of more hotels still being open. And I find a fortnight the ideal period to explore Peloponnese’s main sights (the southern two thirds of the peninsula: “Fingers & Palm of the Peloponnese Hand”).

14 days on the road in the Peloponnese & 3 days (stationary) in Athens

Here is my Google Map of our Peloponnese and Athens itinerary complete with all the upscale hotels and (fine-dining) restaurants we were.

As to the Peloponnese part, it is about the best lodging we found and that was still open (many hotels close down for the season end of October). In terms of dining spots in the Peloponnese, you have to be aware that there is not much around that merits the name “fine dining” outside of cities and high-end hotels. So, I have included the best restaurants we encountered offering an overall good enough experience, especially food wise.

My husband and I flew into Athens, picked up a rental car and drove to our first destination, Nafplio (three nights). In case you only want to explore the Peloponnese without a (stationary) stay in Athens, there is also the option to fly into Kalamata (“West Finger”). After discovering “the Peloponnese Thumb” we drove on to Monemvasia, on the “Index or East Finger” (three nights). Next was the “Middle Finger” with the Mani peninsula (three nights). Our last stay by the Mediterranean coast was in Messenia, the “Peloponnese Ring or West Finger” (two nights) before heading inland. And this was to the mountainous Arcadia (three nights). When doing this we travelled via Olympia to get an impression of this extraordinary historic site.

Our last drive was from the Menalon highlands to the airport where we returned our car and grabbed a taxi to get to Athen’s downtown for a three-day city stay.

What is next in my Peloponnese & Athens reporting?

Now to some information about the individual stops on our Peloponnese itinerary. This includes a couple of sights and walking suggestions.  And you get details about where we stayed and dined, and this in style whenever possible. As to Athens, I only go into our luxury hotel and the three fine-dining restaurants we dined at. As there is quite a lot of material, I need to break my reporting down in four parts. I start in this blogpost with part one that covers the “Peloponnese Thumb” (what to do and best hotels/restaurants). The next one will be about the “Index or East Finger” and the “Middle or Mani Finger”. As to part three, I will go into the “Ring or West Finger” and Arcadia. And finally, in one more post I will address Athens.

From place to place in the Peloponnese itinerary, part I, “Peloponnese Thumb”

Nafplio & Argolis

Here it is about one of the most worth seeing towns in the Peloponnese, Nafplio. Yet also the surrounding area, the Argolis peninsula, has much to offer.

About the “Peloponnese Thumb”

On your way from the Athens airport to Nafplio, where you absolutely should stay because of its beauty, you can make a stop in Corinth. If you have half an hour to spare, take a quick look at the impressive Corinth Canal. In case you have more time, why not visit the ancient Corinth (we did not).

As to Nafplio, this first capital of the modern Greek state is a true gem! I have read that it is like a bigger version of the Plaka in Athens (old town), only more beautiful. And there is some truth in it. Think of gorgeous cobbled streets, a wealth of Venetian architecture or charming squares of every size. In its core you find the Syntagma Square,

which is not only vast and striking yet even paved in marble. Furthermore, there are three forts, from which you should visit the Palamidi Fortress

in particular. Plus, there is a great hike leading via the Palamidi Path

to Nafplio’s south, and this until the path comes to an end. Here is the link to the track on Outdooractive.

A must-do sight in Nafplio’s surround is the Epidaurus amphitheater, one of the best-preserved of Greece’s ancient sites, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. If you do a half-day trip, you can also visit a second such site, either Mycenae or Ancient Nemea. We opted for the lesser visited latter, which you could combine with a wine tasting in the area (we did not).

Our hotel: Navria Nafplio

When it comes to the best hotels in the “Peloponnese Thumb”, we did not look further than Nafplio. As this town is considered as its jewel, we absolutely wanted to stay here. There is the one or other luxury hotel in and around town, yet we did not think about choosing one of them. Either they do not get good reviews or are not in the historic old town. So, we opted for one of the many favourably rated boutique accommodations in town. In our case, it was Hotel Navria located on a small and relatively quiet square in the old town.

Right across the square there is its sister hotel, Aetoma, which also seems to be a good choice for demanding travelers. The lovely breakfast by the way, is available at Navria for both accommodations. And the two of them are only steps away from the bustling town center.

While Navria has modern interiors, its exteriors incorporate elements from the long gone by Ottoman period. As to rooms, six different ones are at your disposal. While many of them sound favourable, we went for the Suite. It features a balcony and a generous layout.

The bathroom is not big, but cleverly constructed with a pleasant walk-in shower and ample storage space.

Staff is extremely friendly and helpful, we felt very at ease here. And it was the least expensive room of our whole trip, it only cost us 165€ per night (with breakfast).

Our restaurants: Wild Duck, Valaora & Thyme, all in Nafplio

You have to know that Nafplio has lots of touristy restaurants, which are mostly traditional Greek taverns. Yet there are also some places which come close to what one understands under fine dining. This is especially true for Valaora, which is an upscale restaurant in a beautiful setting by the sea.

Also the service and the majority of our dishes, international food with a twist, were convincing.

When it came to our mains however, neither the Moussaka nor the Rooster Tortellini, both modern takes on the original receipts, were big throws. With the former, the aubergine was hardly recognizable and the meat subpar. As to the latter, the pasta dough was far too thick. And the prices were stiff compared to other restaurants in the area.

As to the second dining spot, Wild Duck served good contemporary creations

in pleasant surroundings.

Whereas I found the pricing okay, this was not so in terms of staff. When we showed up at the dining spot, they wanted to seat us outside, although we had a reservation – they did not ask about our preferences when we made it – and it was chilly. After lots of hesitation, they finally let us have seats inside.

Our third choice, Thyme, was the only one that was not in the town center but in Nafplio’s outskirts. We were nicely welcomed by the son, while his father is responsible for the kitchen. And the chef knows his job! There is only a small menu of European dishes with a contemporary touch, but everything we had was immaculately prepared and delicious.

Plus, it was good value for money. As to the ambiance, it was enjoyable with a modern flair.

Looking forth to road trip in the Peloponnese in style (part II to part IV)

After outlining a 14-day road trip itinerary in the Peloponnese and a three-day short stay in Athens, I went into part one of the voyage. That was about the “Peloponnese Thumb”, first of all the town of Nafplio (what to do and best hotels/restaurants). You have to know in this context that you have this southernmost piece of mainland Greece on your left hand. The next blogpost will be about two more of the “Peloponnese Fingers”. This is the “Index or East Finger” with the Monemvasia fortress

and the “Middle or Mani Finger”, which is a wild, rugged region. Part three covers the “Ring or West Finger”, Messenia, and the mountainous area of Arcadia, the “Peloponnese Palm”. Last, I inform about a city trip to Athens.

As far as the visit to Greece’s capital is concerned, my reporting will solely be about the luxury hotel we stayed and the three Michelin (starred) fine-dining restaurants we went. Regarding the others, I will let you know where to go for staying and dining in style (not always easy to find) but also what to do in the respective places. As my husband and I are avid walkers, I will provide some walking/hiking suggestions too.

Date of stay: November 2024

Pin it for later

The post 14 days on the road in the Peloponnese/Greece and a short stay in Athens in style – PART I outline & “Thumb” first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post 14 days on the road in the Peloponnese/Greece and a short stay in Athens in style – PART I outline & “Thumb” appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Finally we come to the last part of a North and Central France trip done in late summer 2024. This is the France west-east crossing from the Brittany – which was the actual focus and part two – back to Switzerland where my husband and I live. We did so by taking the route via Cognac, the Dordogne and the Cantal. As to part one, that was about our way from home to Brittany, which led over the Champagne and the Normandy, and where I gave an outline of the whole journey. My reporting includes the itinerary with some of the most important things to do everywhere we went plus the one or other walking suggestion. Furthermore, I let you know where to head for best (luxury) hotels and (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants, here in this post it is about Cognac, the Dordogne and the Cantal.

Before I come to these three places, find in the following again my Google Map with our North and Central France itinerary plus all our (luxury) hotels and the (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants en route:

From place to place in North and Central France, part III, Cognac, Dordogne & Cantal

1. Cognac north of Bordeaux

About Cognac

The town of Cognac in the Charente Departement is about two hours by car north of Bordeaux. It is famous for one of the world’s best-known type of brandy. To label a spirit Cognac, it must be from a certain area and strictly made according to regulations (double-distilled). A bit like in the Champagne, you can visit the “Grande Marque” Cognac houses to view the process and to taste it.

Otherwise, in my view Cognac does not have much to offer in kind of attractions. The location on the Charente river is nice but that is it.

I found the town and even its historic center not that special. Yet it makes a great stopover for luxury traveler as you can find here two of the best luxury hotels in the area, Hotel Chais Monnet & Spa and Hotel La Nauve. While the former is in town, the latter is in Cognac’s surroundings.

Our hotel: La Nauve Cognac

My husband and I opted for the newer one of the mentioned luxury hotels, La Nauve, opened in summer 2023. And that was a great decision! It is idyllically located in a former Cognac distillery and mansion a few minutes by car from Cognac. What a beauty La Nauve is!

It is wonderfully restored with the finest materials.

Though, I considered it as impractical in many aspects, especially as far our room was concerned (Prestige Room, 33-38 sqm, No. 10, 696€ per night with breakfast, out of 12 in total). Without going in details, it was adorable from its looks, and there was a huge outdoor area too.

The breakfast was fantastic, served in the library (on inadequate chairs for the occasion).

Staff was faultless, and there are two great restaurants onsite (see below). You find here also a large garden, a bar and an outdoor pool.

Our restaurants: both at Hotel La Nauve in Cognac

We did not venture out of the hotel as I thought that both in-house dining spots made a good impression. And I was right so, both belong to the best restaurants you can find in Cognac! First I come to the casual bistro and then to the elegant gourmet dining spot, both led by chef Anthony Carballo. And pastry chef (Simon Souchaud) is a genius, I adored his varying brioches!

a) Brasserie des Flâneurs Cognac

This was one of the few restaurants on our journey through France that was not Michelin listed (although it would have deserved the award). It is situated in an annexe – that used to be the estate’s distillery – and has a modern, casual vibe.

Staff was unobtrusive but friendly. And the place seems to draw quite a number of locals. They serve modern international food, expertly prepared. Prices are at a medium level (starters from 16 to 19€, mains from 25 to 30€ and desserts around 10€).

b) Notes, gourmet restaurant, Cognac

The Michelin listed Notes is quite different from the above eatery. It is a refined dining establishment in an intimate part of the main manor.

You can make your choice between two tasting menus, one with four and the other with seven courses. I found them adequately priced, fitting the upscale setting at La Nauve (on our evening 80 and 120€). The ambiance is sophisticated and the staff, especially the head server, was top notch on our dinner. And the food – modern French cuisine – was sublime, in my view even worthy a Michelin star.

2. The Dordogne aka the Périgord

About the Dordogne/Périgord

The Dordogne department ist often called by its old name, the Périgord. The former is clearly a territorial designation (the river Dordogne). The Périgord is a historical name, it dates back to Roman times and represented the old province at the time. Yet both stand for a lovely landscape full of medieval castles, prehistoric caves and fortified villages.

The main town is Périgueux, boasting a charming old town with 2,000 years of history.

Then there are lots of villages that are part of the Les plus Beaux Villages de France (the most beautiful villages in France). Quite a few are around Sarlat, in the Black Périgord, the most popular part for visitors. I name here La Roque Gageac,

Beynac et Cazenac, Castelnaud la Chapelle or Dome. Plus, you find in the Dordogne also Jardins Remarquables (remarkable gardens), one of the more popular is Jardin du Manor d’Eyrignac.

While everything is very nice to look at, it is also quite busy (many large groups of bus tourists). To avoid the crowds, we did a nice walk/hike from La Roque Gageac to the Castelnaud La Chapelle Castle along the Dordogne, here is the link to the track on Outdooractive.

Our hotel: Domaine de Rochebois in Vitrac

Upfront I have to mention that we found it hard to select an accommodation to stay in style in the Dordogne. In search of best hotels here, you are somewhat lost. Really good luxury lodging is a rarity in this area. And our choice after much consideration turned out to be suboptimal. While Domaine de Rochebois is a beautiful property, it feels somewhat neglected.

From what I read, the hotel experienced quite some changes (opened in 1993, reopened in 2022 after a closure of 10 years, sold in 2024). On our stay, the restaurant and the golf course were closed. The room we had (Junior Suite Prestige, No. 212, 50 sqm, 514€ per night with breakfast, 40 rooms in total) had been updated not so long ago but already felt a bit dated. The same was true for the outdoor area (mossy cushions).

Staff was friendly, and the breakfast was okay. Onsite, you also find an outdoor pool and a spa. There is a bar too, yet it felt dreary.

Our restaurants: Ô Moulin in Carsac-Aillac & O’Plaisir des Sens in La Roque Gageac

If you are looking for best restaurants in the Dordogne, specifically in the so called Black Périgord, there is no way around the following two establishments.

a) Ô Moulin in Carsac-Aillac

We were much in favor of this small restaurant with a Michelin Bib Gourmand, opened in 2018. It is idyllically located in a former water-powered sawmill. The attentive lady of the house – Cécile Guérin – welcomed us and ushered us in the contemporary, casual dining room.

Her partner, Nicolas Aujoux, celebrates a modern French cuisine and occasionally also served plates on our dinner. You can choose among there tasting menus (3/3/6 courses 42/57/82€) and also dine à la carte, what we did. We had a fabulous duo of duck liver and turbot fillet, also the desserts were persuasive.

And the host even exchanged a few sentences with us, which was nice.

b) O’Plaisir des Sens in La Roque Gageac

At O’Plaisir des Sens, Bruno (chef) and Lydia Marien (host) have been at work here since 2015. The chef’s cooking expertise is evident, the restaurant is Michelin listed. His cuisine is classic, although with a modern twist. As far as the dining spot’s appearance is concerned, it is somewhat eclectic.

And the service on our dinner was down to earth, at times not quite seamless, e.g. when the host served cheese from the trolley. Plus, the business is a family affair, on our visit a daughter helped out in the service. Food wise, you have several options. Either you can choose one of three tasting menus (3/4/4 courses at 48/69/85€) or dine à la carte. We had the “the golden middle-menu”, which was fine, although a bit awkwardly composed (white beans with bacon, a delicious duck liver, sweetbread and a peach dessert).

3. Cantal, Auvergne/Aubrac Plateau

About Cantal, Auvergne/Aubrac Plateau

The Cantal mountain range respectively the Aubrac plateau are not necessarily places you know as foreign travelers. My husband and I ended up here because we had been looking for a stopover on our way from the Dordogne back to Switzerland. And imagine, we enjoyed here not only the culinary highlight, but also one of the best hotels stays of the whole trip. But more to how to travel in style further below.

If you are wondering where exactly we were, it was the town of Chaudes-Aigues.

It is located in the Massif Central in the heart of France, between the Cantal mountain range and the Aubrac plateau. The area is sparsely populated and geographically isolated. Much of Cantal is about pasture for the cattle – among other the old breed of Aubrac – and sheep. And this is because the climate is usually too cold and damp for grain. And we well noticed this on a walk we did in the area (link to the track on Outdooractive).

Regarding Chaudes-Aigues, it is a spa resort with more than 30 hot springs across the town. And the most famous is the Par Spring, which is the warmest natural one in whole Europe! As to natural beauties in the surroundings, there are the Aubrac Regional Nature Park, the Laussac Peninsula or the Truyère Gorges. A town you might have heard of is Laguiole where you find many companies that manufacture the famous Laguiole knives. In addition, it is a pretty village too.

Our hotel/restaurant in Cantal: Serge Vieira

My husband and I came to the Cantal region not because of the hot springs or the natural beauties, but because of the two-star Michelin Restaurant Serge Vieira. On our “mission” of finding the best restaurants everywhere we go, we stranded in this remote place. And fortunately, this highly decorated dining spot comes with accommodation options too. You can either stay at three rooms at the Couffour Castle (Restaurant Serge Vieira)

or at 18 rooms at their second place, Hotel Sodade, down in Chaudes-Aigues. Here in town, you also find Restaurant Sodade with a Michelin Bib Gourmand. I think that these establishments belong to the best what you can find in terms of upscale hotels and restaurants in the near and further area.

a) Stay at Serge Vieira at Couffour Castle

As I mentioned above, we experienced not only culinary delights at Serge Vieira but also a great hotel stay. Out of the three rooms available at Couffour Castle we opted for the “Yellow Room” (about 30 sqm, 415€ with continental breakfast). Yet I think all three have the same layout. We liked what we encountered, a modern and generously sized accommodation with an outdoor area for viewing the peaceful rural scenery.

What I very much appreciated was that the room came with two financier-pastries on both days of our stay. And the breakfast was out of this world!

Plus, Marie-Aude Vieira is the best host you could wish for.

b) Restaurant Serge Vieira, the best restaurant of our France journey

There is a sad back story behind this establishment. This is because the two-star Michelin chef Serge Vieira died of cancer at the age of 46 in mid 2023. Before he had built up with his wife Marie-Aude a successful restaurant and hotel business (Restaurant Serge Vieira at Couffour Castle from 2009 as well as Hotel and Restaurant Sodade from 2019). After her husband’s death, Marie-Aude Vieira took over. She did this with the help of a long-time friend of the family, Aurélien Gransagne. He runs the kitchen and she the dining room. I must say, we had the most exceptional dinners here – we ate here two evenings in a row (originally, we wanted to have the second one at Restaurant Sodade).

While I cannot judge Serge Vieira’s cuisine, I was delighted by Aurélien Gransagne’s inspired and truly unique dishes. You can choose between two menus: M for Marie-Aude at 235€ (6 courses) and S for Serge at 135€ (4 courses). Among other delicacies we had the most formidable lobster paired with corn or a dessert creation made of figs and almonds.

We enjoyed this in the ultra-modern dining room with picture windows to take in the views.

And this well cared for by the amiable host and her team.

Looking back to road trip in North & Central France in style (part I & II)

Here it was about the last part (three) of a North and Central France trip my husband and I did recently. It regards the itinerary from Cognac over the Dordogne to the Cantal, which was our way home to Switzerland from the Brittany. The start (part one) made the opposite direction, from our home country to our actual main destination. The voyage went first to the Champagne, then to the Normandy. And part two focused on the journey’s centerpiece, the Brittany.

Date of stay: September 2024

Pin it for later

The post 19 days on the road in North & Central France in style – PART III way from Brittany to Switzerland first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post 19 days on the road in North & Central France in style – PART III way from Brittany to Switzerland appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Now it is about the Brittany, the main focus of a road trip in North and Central France that my husband and I did in late summer 2024. To get here from our home country of Switzerland we travelled via the Champagne and the Normandy. Part one of my mini-series about the voyage went into it – and also gave an overview of the whole journey. In this very post, I concentrate on the Brittany. And part three – soon to appear on my blog – focuses on our way home from the Brittany that lead us to Cognac, the Dordogne and Cantal. In all three posts, I inform about the itinerary including the major sights and some walking suggestions. And I let you know where to go for best (luxury) hotels and (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants; here as mentioned it is about Brittany.

Before diving into the Brittany, first again my Google Map with our North and Central France itinerary plus all the (luxury) hotels and the Michelin fine-dining restaurants we were:

From place to place in North & Central France, part II, Brittany

Brittany: Dinard, Perros-Guirec & Sainte-Marine/Combrit

As you have learnt by now, Brittany was our trip’s main focus. We totally spent twelve nights here, four in each spot. The start made two places on the north coast, first Dinard, in the region’s northeast. Perros-Guirec, in the northwest followed. And Sainte-Marine/Combrit near Quimper on the west coast and at the same time in Brittany’s southwest made the end.

About Brittany

Walking/Hiking on GR 34

What I found brillant about Brittany is the fact that there is a walking/hiking trail running the entire coastline (GR 34). And this Sentier des Douaniers (Customs Trail) is about 2,000 km/ 1,243 mi long. Not that my husband and I did overly long tours, but we picked out the one or other stretch of track at every place we stayed. As to Dinard, I was fond of the walk from Dinard to Saint-Lunaire (link track Outdooractive). Around Perros-Guirec, I absolutely adored the trail from Sainte-Anne to Bringuiller (link track Outdooractive).

And in the department Finistère (around Quimper) the walk/hike on the Crozon peninsula was nice (link track Outdooractive).

Town hopping in Brittany

Of course, there is also much to in Brittany in case you do not want to walk or hike. We visited quite a numbers of towns and especially liked the following ones. I list them from northeast to southwest. Cancale is a pretty port and famous for its oysters.

And  I think we came across the most beautiful villages in Brittany just before reaching it on our way from Honfleur. Saint-Malo is a fascinating granite city with its impressive rampart but unfortunately overtouristed. Dinard – nicknamed “Cannes of the north” – is an absolute beauty with its numerous Belle Époque villas.

More to Brittany’s west, Tréguier is worth a quick visit with its huge cathedral, the beautiful narrow streets and little squares. Perros-Guirec is a charming small seaside resort with a relaxed feel.

The nearby Ploumanac’h is famous for its imposing, pink granite rocks. Lannion is a historic town with pretty houses and small paved streets.

In the region’s south, Quimper has not only a majestic cathedral but also a nice historical district. Plus it has a distinctive Breton Celtic character.

Concarnau is a small walled town, which is nice but very touristy (one of the most visited places in Brittany). As far as I am concerned, I liked the nearby Pont-Aven better, famous for its colony of painters in the 19th century. It is picturesquely nestled on the banks of the Aven river with enchanting alleys in the old town.

Our hotels in Brittany: Castelbrac Dinard, L’Agapa Perros-Guirec & Villa Tri Men Sainte-Marine/Combrit

Now it is about the three (luxury) hotels we had in Brittany, which I regard as the possibly best you can find here. While the first two (Castelbrac and L’Agapa) are five-star establishments, the last (Villa Tri Men) is a four-star. Whereas the guest experience at Castelbrac was as perfect as it gets, this was not so at L’Agapa. Let me be straight, for me this accommodation is no real luxury hotel, it is rather a four-star. And I did not really warm to its vibe, which I found a bit old-fashioned. Hotel Castel Beau Site, a bit more in the west, might be a (better) alternative (built 1928, opened 2020, 28 rooms, 4-star). As to Villa Tri Men, it definitely is a four-star, yet one with an upscale ambiance. Now, to some more details to each of these three lodgings.

Castelbrac Dinard

This was the most upscale hotel of our voyage and also the best overall experience we had! It has a favourable position in Dinard, right on the beachfront promenade.

It was opened in 2015 in a historic building that used to house a museum of natural history. Now, there are 25 guest rooms looking out over the water, many with terraces, just as ours, which was huge (Prestige Room Terrace Sea View, 40 sqm, No. 4, 772€ per night with breakfast & one drink). Their style is refined yet laid-back, with Art Deco features.

Staff did a really good job, and we were served the most lovely breakfast.

Furthermore, you find here a bar, transformed from the museum’s former aquarium, and a Michelin-star restaurant (details follow below). But not enough, Castelbrac also has an outdoor pool, a small chapel and a vintage motorboat for excursions.

L’Agapa Perros-Guirec

As mentioned above, our stay here turned out to be a bit of a deception. The hotel is big for the area, where lodging tends to be small-scale (45 rooms).

It was opened in 2005 with some renovations made in the meantime. We had booked a room in one of the two annexes (Deluxe la Désirade, 45 sqm, No. 72, 384€ per night with breakfast & half a bottle of Champagne). It had a nice sea view and a generous layout, but I found it cheaply built. And it was musty, especially the bathroom, which would otherwise have been quite attractive.

Other facilities included a bar, a Michelin listed restaurant (details see below) and a spa. Breakfast was okay, as was the staff. In favor of L’Agapa must be mentioned that their pricing is reasonable. Plus, they replaced the Champagne in our room daily.

Villa Tri Men Sainte-Marine/Combrit

My husband and I felt comfortable at this elegant 19th century villa overlooking Sainte-Marine’s port. It is most probably the only bigh-end property in the area, especially if you value good reviews.

While the room we had was small and understated (Cottage, 25 sqm, No. 21, 384€ per night with breakfast), it was not a problem for us. Yet none of the 19 rooms at Villa Tri Men are large (opened in 2003, renovated in 2017/18). The bathroom at the cottage was quite spacious. Unfortunately, it had a slight moisture issue, but it was manageable. Plus, we had a nice outdoor area with a river view, as the only one of three cottages in total.

Onsite your find a bar and a Michelin starred dining spot (more info follows). And there is a second restaurant affiliated to the hotel down at the port (Michelin listed, details below). Staff is friendly and helpful, and a good breakfast is served here.

Our best restaurants in Brittany: my ranking

We dined at quite a number of fine-dining restaurants in Brittany on our nine-night stay. I will rank the dining spots we were in descending order of my fondness. And as longer this section goes, the shorter my recounting of the dining experience becomes. Frankly, none of the eateries – all listed in the Michelin guide – disappointed. Some showed weaknesses regarding the service or the concept, yet the food was always good or even excellent.

My No. 1 restaurant in Brittany: Les Trois Rochers Sainte-Marine/Combrit

My absolute favourite in terms of best restaurants in Brittany was the one-Michelin Les Trois Rochers in Sainte-Marine/Combrit near Quimper. Here Frédéric Claquin has been in charge since 2003, awarded a Michelin star since 2016. He celebrates a creative seafood cuisine blended with spices from around the world. The setting is nice, a modernly furnished dining room with picture windows to view the beautiful port scenery.

Three tasting menus are on offer: 3-course 67€ (weekdays only), 4-course 99€ and 6-course 142€. We opted for the whole shebang as we celebrated my birthday. And it was a delectable culinary journey from A to Z, delivered by competent and warm staff.

My No. 2 dining spot in Brittany: La Table de mon Père Perros-Guirec

This Michelin listed place is the hotel restaurant of Castel Beau Site I mentioned above. My husband and I enjoyed a fabulous meal here in a contemporary-chic setting. And this with a stunning view of the St. Guirec Beach.

At work here is Nicolas Le Luyer, a true Breton. He has featured a modern cuisine and has showcased local produce since 2013. On offer at La Table de mon Père is a 3-course menu of the moment for 59€. Furthermore, there are two tasting menus, 4/6 courses for 89/109€. And you can also order à la carte, what we did. As a main course, we had pork filet in unison with local sea snails (42€), which was a delight! The standard of service was pretty good, although not completely faultless.

My No. 3 eatery in Brittany: Éclosion in Quimper

This is an urban gourmet restaurant at its best! Éclosion, awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand, was a real find for us. Not only got we contemporary food with a foreign twist at moderate prices, but also the service was very persuasive. Marion Pelletan is responsible for the dining-room, and this with lots of competence and and passion.

Thibault Le Goff in in charge of the open kitchen. And they have been doing this since early 2023. The menu includes three starters, mains and desserts each, from which you can compose a 3-/4-course menu (38€/45€). The setting is nice, modern and inviting at the same time. A must-do restaurant in case you come to Quimper!

My No. 4 restaurant in Brittany: Pourquoi Pas in Dinard

Pourquoi Pas is the “hotel restaurant” at the five-star Castelbrac. It has been holding a Michelin star since 2019, and this under the lead of  Julien Hennote. He is Breton yet a well travelled one. In the kitchen, he favors local produce and sustainable coastal fishing. You get here a 4-/6-/8-course menu (80/100/120€). On our dinner here, we had a lobster menu. It included six dishes, which were all inventive and well-made, though we found the main special. It was a lobster tail on sausage slices, which we considered a strange pairing. Yet the desserts were fantastic. And we also got a goodie, a financier with algae. This may sound awkward, but it was very tasty! Had it not been for the the somewhat awkward main dish, this dining spot would have topped our ranking of best restaurants in Brittany.

Service was good as was the ambiance at this elegant and stylish dining spot with its wonderful view of the Saint-Malo Bay.

My No. 5 to 8 dining spots in Brittany

Two more Dinard dining spots follow in my ranking of best restaurants in Brittany, both Michelin listed. This is about Ombelle and Didier Méril. While the former is modern and casual,

the latter is traditional and elegant, yet both with sea view.

Whereas Ombelle is reasonably priced, Didier Méril seems rather pricy for the area. Staff at both establishments left a mixed impression. However, the two of them offered quite a good food experience.

No. 7 is Le Bélouga in Perros-Guirec and No. 8 Bistrot du Bac in Sainte-Marine/Combrit, both included in the Michelin guide. The former is a hotel restaurant with a great sea view yet with quite a chilly atmosphere.

The service was so-so, however the food was persuasive (bistronomic and moderately priced, especially on Sunday and Monday).

The latter is a hotel restaurant too, but not your typical one. Instead, it is a real bistro

with fresh and simple seafood dishes (sole was great).

And the setting on a small port is lovely.

Looking back and forth to road trip in North & Central France in style (part I & III)

This very post went into the centerpiece of our North and Central France trip, the Brittany. To summarize, part one (last blogpost) was about our way from Switzerland to the Brittany. It went to the Champagne first, followed by the Normandy. Soon on my blog, you will find part three (the last of this mini-series), highlighting the route we took when returning home from the Brittany. We did so via Cognac, the Dordogne and the Cantal.

Date of stay: September 2024

Pin it for later

The post 19 days on the road in North & Central France in style – PART II Brittany (main destination) first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post 19 days on the road in North & Central France in style – PART II Brittany (main destination) appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

A long held plan came true in late summer 2024, when my husband and I set off on an extended journey through France. Not that we have not travelled our beautiful neighboring country in the recent past, but mostly for a few days only. This time we wanted to do a longer trip to France, and this by car. Its main focus should be the Brittany. As we started from northwestern Switzerland, this meant that we had to build in at least one stopover. And the same is true for the way back. So in the end, a 19-day voyage resulted. Before arriving in the Brittany, we made two stops (Champagne & Normandy). The return way lead via Cognac, the Dordogne and the Cantal/Auvergne. As always when traveling, we kept an eye out for best luxury hotels and (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants worth the money spent on them. Here in this post it is about part one, an outline of the the whole journey and the route to Brittany, leading to the Champagne and Honfleur/Normandy.

Before coming to our 19-day itinerary for North and Central France in style, there is something else. It concerns the sort of content you may expect in this context.

What is next about the North & Central France journey in the time to come?

Actually, I wanted to provide quite a number of blogposts about our extended trip through France’s north and center. And they should follow right after this one outlining our itinerary. I used to to do this on my blog for many voyages in the past. This time, it will be a little bit different. This is because my husband and I already did another longer road trip in the meantime. It went to the Peloponnese and Athens in Greece. So, I want to keep my France travel recount shorter. That means to focus on the essentials such as what to do and where do go for best hotels and restaurants (part one: Champagne & Honfleur). I might pick out one or another topic and dwell on it later. Yet this would be after letting you know about our Greece journey just in the way I do it here for the North and Central France. It makes no sense for me to always fall behind with my trip reporting. And the next voyage is already approaching!

19 days on the road from Switzerland to Brittany and back with several before-and-after stops

It was not the first Brittany trip that my husband and I undertook this late summer. Back in the 90s, we already spent two weeks in the area. So, we decided to leave away most places that we went to at the time. This is true for some of the most visited spots too, Mont-Saint-Michel or Pointe du Raz. Notwithstanding, there are more than enough things to do. Here is my Google Map with our North and Central France itinerary plus all the (luxury) hotels and the Michelin fine-dining restaurants we were:

As mentioned, the journey’s first stop was in the Champagne region where we stayed in Épernay. From here, we continued to Honfleur in Normandy. Next was the first of three stays in Brittany. It took place in Dinard. Perros-Guirec, another town on France’s north coast followed. Then, we moved on to the country’s west coast, to Sainte-Marine/Combrit close to Quimper.

After leaving Brittany, we headed further south to Cognac, where the famous spirit of the same name comes from, a type of brandy made of grapes. The next stop was in the Dordogne (Vitrac), also known under its old name of Périgord. From here, we drove on to the Cantal department, which is located in the heart of France. Here we lodged at Chaudes-Aigues. Originally, we had planned one more stop in the French Jura. Yet we cancelled it at the last moment and directly returned to Switzerland from Cantal, which was quite a stretch to drive.

Now to some information about the individual stops on our North and Central France itinerary. This includes things to do with a couple of walking suggestions. And you learn about where to go for staying and dining in style. As there is quite a lot of material, I need to break my reporting down in three parts. I start in this blogpost with part one, the Champagne and Honfleur/Normandy (best activities, hotels and restaurants). The next one will be about the Brittany and the third part about Cognac, the Dordogne and Cantal.

From place to place in North & Central France, part I, Champagne & Normandy (best activities, hotels & restaurants)

1. Champagne Épernay

About the Champagne

Champagne is undoubtedly France’s most famous fizz, if not the world’s! This wine-making region is on Paris’ northeast side, with the towns of Reims and Épernay often used as a visitors’ base. For sure, you want to visit a Champagne House when being in the area, so book your slot in advance. If the question should arise which one to choose, this is difficult because there are numerous! My husband and I visited the biodynamic Leclerc Briant Champagne House because we stayed at their hotel, a family house in the middle of Épernay (see below).

While Reims is a bigger town (population of about 180,000), Épernay is much smaller (22,000 inhabitants). Both have their charms. Reims boasts a nice old town and a splendid cathedral. The special feature of Épernay is the Avenue de Champagne. It has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2015. Here one Champagner House comes after another. And attached to them are bars and restaurants where you can taste the Houses’ finest cuvées, sometimes paired with culinary delicacies.

Our hotel: Le 25Bis by Leclerc Briant Épernay

For our two-day stay in the Champagne, my husband and I chose Le 25Bis by Leclerc Briant (Champagne House), opened in 2019. With its five rooms only, this former 18th century family home makes for an intimate stay. As it is located on the prestigious Avenue de Champagne, this luxury guest house comes with a Champagne shop and a terrace to try the House’s cuvées.

As to its interiors, it is a mix between old and new. Each room is different from each other. We opted for Room No. 3, which I personally find the best as it overlooks the (quiet) rear of the house with the garden. It is spacious (47 sqm), with a lovely seating area and quite a large bathroom.

And Le 25Bis by Leclerc Briant is a heaven for Champagne lovers! Not only were we treated a small bottle of their exquisite Champagne and cookies in our room, but we also got a glass of it every morning at breakfast! The room rate per night was 425€ (with breakfast), which we found adequate. A delightful little breakfast was included, prepared on site (behind the bar) by friendly staff.

Our restaurants: Bulles & Bonheur and Symbiose, both in Épernay

a) Bulles & Bonheur Épernay

I really wanted to have a dinner with a Champagne pairing and came across the Champagne producer of Élodie D. This is about a female wine growing business in the fourth generation. As to their restaurant, two tasting menus are on offer. The five-course Menu Élodie (wine grower) amounts to 70€ without and to 130€ with the Champagne pairing (5 glasses). Menu Fabrice (her husband), which we had, includes seven courses and costs 110€. Together with the Champagne pairing (five glasses) the total expense is 200€. As to the food, you get here immaculately prepared modern French cuisine, nicely presented, in pleasant surroundings.

Fabrice was present on our dinner and this together with a fifth generation member, the couple’s lovely daughter. She helped out with the service although being only about ten years old. And she did a good job just as the rest of the staff! In terms of Champagne, you get different cuvées of the Champagne Élodie D. and also old vintages of the Champagne Desbordes-Amiaud. We liked both of them, although the latter is a Champagne of a different kind. We found that it almost tasted like a port wine.

b) Symbiose Épernay

Symbiose is a small eatery in Épernay’s town center where Maxine Moret (chef) and his wife Justine (host) are in charge. On offer is a contemporary cuisine (Michelin listed). Although Justine was not present 0n our evening, we felt well cared for on our dinner. The modernly styled dining room feels pleasant.

In terms of food, there are three starters, two mains, cheese and two dessert available. Out of this offer, you can compose two menus (4-/5-course at 54/70€) or order à la carte. Everything we got – we opted for the 4-course version – was great! I liked it that the cuisine was not only modern but also light. Maybe the service was a bit slow-paced, but I think the chef was alone in the kitchen.

2. Honfleur Normandy

About Normandy

Normandy has lots to offer as to things to do. Its most popular attraction is of course the Mont-Saint-Michel Bay – a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979. Although it is overrun by tourists, it is worth visiting. Another must-do is exploring the different landscapes along the Alabaster Coast. There is the GR21 hiking trail running all the way from Le Havre to Le Tréport. Its most beautiful part is probably around Étretat with its beautiful cliffs – unfortunately overtouristed too. And if you are a history buff, the D-day beaches might be your thing.

As my husband and I already visited the Mont-Saint-Michel Bay and Étretat on our first trip to Normandy, we limited ourselves on discovering Honfleur a bit more. We did so by making a hike around Honfleur, here is the link to the track on Outdooractive.

As to Honfleur, we already knew it. Therefore, we expected lots of tourists here. It was exactly like that, but understandable. The historic multi-store houses packed tight to each other around the Vieux Bassin (port) make a beautiful picture.

Yet a few steps further, and you are away from the masses!

Our hotel: Saint-Delis Honfleur 

Our hotel in Honfleur was Hotel Saint-Delis, opened 2020 in a 17th century former family home.

It is located in a beautiful residential neighborhood, very close to the town center.With its nine rooms only, this Relais & Châteaux property is very boutique. The elegantly furnished rooms come with steam showers and overlook a splendid garden.

We had booked a Deluxe Room (31 sqm, 599€ with breakfast per night), yet were upgraded to a Junior Suite (40 sqm). It was a duplex with ample space, which we liked (No 5). And this despite the fact that the A/C was a bit suboptimal.

You find no restaurant on site but there is a bar for hotel guests only. Here you get a lovely breakfast and snacks throughout the day, served by friendly and helpful staff.

Our restaurants: Huître Brûlée & Le Bréard, both in Honfleur

a) Huître Brûlée Honfleur

At the Michelin listed Huître Brûlée you get oysters – as its name suggests! But we chose other items from the small à la carte, which is reasonably priced. The cuisine at this lively, casual place is modern.

And and you get also lighter and healthy choices. At the helm at Huître Brûlée is a younger couple, Paul Lacheray in the kitchen and his partner, Chloé Woestelandt, in the dining room. Even though the staff was busy on our visit, it was cordial. We liked what we had for starters (all around 15€) and mains (from 22 to 30€). Instead of  going for cheese (5€), my husband and I had two desserts (10€ each). Yet the latter was too much, as especially the chocolate dessert was quite heavy (one dessert is probably sufficient).

b) Le Bréard Honfleur

This Michelin dining spot is the more sophisticated choice compared to its above mentioned competitor. What they have in common, is the modern food. Yet the decor here is chicer, the service more polished and the cuisine a touch more refined.

A younger couple is in charge as well, Fabrice Sébire in the kitchen and his wife Karine in the dining room (since 2004). On our evening, we could have a seat outdoors in the lovely courtyard. From the three menus (with options), we chose the middle (3-course menu 45€, 4-course menu 60€, 6-course menu 70€).

The service was professional and attentive. We found that Karine had an open eye for subtleties that others might overlook. And there were no issues with the pricing, which we considered as fair.

Looking forth to road trip in North & Central France in style (part II & III)

That was the first part of a North and Central France trip my husband and I undertook lately. It showcased the itinerary from Switzerland – where we come from – to the Brittany. This is about the Champagne and Honfleur/Normandy, and I go into the best activities, hotels and restaurants here. The Brittany is the main focus of our journey and I deal with it in part two. Part three finally is about the return way, going from the Brittany via Cognac, the Dordogne and the Cantal back to Switzerland.

Date of stay: September 2024

Pin it for later

The post 19 days on the road in North & Central France in style – outline & PART I way to Brittany from Switzerland first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post 19 days on the road in North & Central France in style – outline & PART I way to Brittany from Switzerland appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

I just wanted to let you know that I have updated my Switzerland directories for traveling and dining in style for 2025! There are the four of them. The first two are about where to go in my lovely home country. You find not only a grand tour of Switzerland but also an overview of premium destinations for the discerning traveler. Furthermore, I inform on where to stay and where to dine in style while traveling along the grand tour through this Alpine nation.

Here are the details:

1. Guide to visiting Switzerland
2. Premium destinations in Switzerland
3. Guide to luxury hotels in Switzerland, part one – core and west
4. Guide to luxury hotels in Switzerland, part two – Alps and east
5. Directory to fine dining in Switzerland, part one – core and west
6. Directory to fine dining in Switzerland, part two – Alps and east

I would like to highlight in particular my advice to foodies spots in Switzerland (5. and 6.).

It is based on dining directories just as the Michelin Guide and the Gault Millau Guide. And whenever they publish a new edition I amend my articles accordingly. But of course my personal opinions also play a role when creating them.

One more remark to end this short blogpost about my freshly updated Switzerland dine and travel in style guides. It is about how to use them. In case you do not want to read them from A to Z – which I would perfectly understand as they are quite long – , then proceed as follows. If you are only interested in a specific place, go to the contents section and click at “show”. Go to the spot of your choice and only read the correspondent paragraph!

Happy traveling and dining to all of you in 2025! And maybe let me know what you think about my directories.

The post My Switzerland travel & dine in style directories 2025 first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post My Switzerland travel & dine in style directories 2025 appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

There is no question that the main draw in Stresa is the visit to the Borromean Islands. Each of them has its own distinctive character and all three are only a quick boat ride away from Stresa. Yet there is more to do around this north Italian town not far from Switzerland. Find in the following some of the best activities around Stresa. Its location on Lake Maggiore, Italy’s second largest, contributes to the diversity of attractions. It is about sightseeing yet also about walking. While Stresa itself is not a large town, there are many more nearby worthwhile to be explored. And you can reach them not only by car but also by train and by boat. The latter due to the fact that most towns are situated directly on the lake.

Unfortunately, my husband and I only stayed four nights in Stresa, which was not nearly long enough to cover all the interesting activities here. So, I will not only report on what we did, but also provide a bucket list for more things to do. If you want to know about the town of Stresa, oozing lots of old-word charm, I wrote a short chapter about in my last post. Now to some of the best activities here. I start with walking/hiking and continue with other things to do.

3 of the best walks/hikes around Stresa

Before coming to three easy to moderate walks/hikes around Stresa, first a recommendation for a leisure stroll in town. As most other lakeside towns in Italy, Stresa features a lungolago. This translates into a lakeside promenade. You could start your passeggiata (afternoon stroll) either southeast or northwest from the town center. I lean towards the first, where you begin southeast from the ferry dock. The journey takes you past a couples of cafes and stately turn-of-the-century buildings. Furthermore, the 2 km (1.3 mi)-long lakeside promenade has lots of statues, fountains and flower beds. And always when gazing out on the lake, there is the beautiful Isola Bella too. To get started, make this easy activity as one of your first in Stresa to get your bearings!

Now to some more serious walks/hikes in the Stresa region. I start with the shortest one and end with one that I have not yet done.

1. Out and back around Villa Taranto in Verbania (easy walk/hike)

Link to track on Outdooractive (only one way – back – without botanical garden – Villa Taranto)

Pallanza – Via Vittorio Veneto – Villa Taranto – Via Vittorio Veneto – Pallanza

Duration: about 2 – 3 hours / Length: about  5.8 km (3.6 mi) / Ascent/Descent: less than 100 m (328 ft)

My husband and I wanted to combine the visit of the Villa Taranto botanical garden with a lakeside walk. So, this is basically another lungolago walk (just as the one mentioned above in Stresa) plus a stroll to criss cross Verbania’s beautiful botanical garden.

Tour description

We decided to start the walk in Verbania’s neighboring town, Pallanza. And we found that this place also has a remarkable historic center by the lake.

While the first part of the walk is along a street with moderate traffic, this is not for long. That is because the street quickly turns into some sort of shared bicycle and footpath with almost no cars around. It is along the lake with the one or other pretty turn-of-the-century building and splendid views over the water.

En route, a short stop at Parco di Villa Giulia

is worthwhile before continuing to Villa Taranto,

the actual destination of the the walk. Here, you can easily spend one to two hours to take in the botanical garden’s highlights. It features 7 km (4.3 mi) of paths with thousands of species of trees and flowers from all over the world. The way back to your starting point in Pallanza is the same you came.

2. Loop around Lake Mergozzo in Verbania (easy to moderate walk/hike)

Link to track on Outdooractive

Montorfano – Mergozzo – Montorfano

Duration: 2 – 3 hours / Length: 8 km (5 mi) – Ascent/Descent: 242 m (794 ft)

Lake Mergozzo is a small but charming lake, 15 minutes by car away from Stresa. It actually was the westernmost part of Lake Maggiore, some centuries ago. Nowadays, it is one of Italy’s cleanest lakes and barred to motorboats. You find here also the pretty town of Mergozzo.

Not only has it a lovely lakeside setting, but also a nice historic center. The tour I am going to describe is a circumnavigation of this lake, as I think one of the best activities around Stresa. And the town of Mergozzo, marking the halfway point, merits a visit by itself.

Tour description

The walk starts at a small beach called Spiaggia La Rustica, which is by the way a really nice bathing place.

Right before reaching it, there is a small number of parking spaces. Alternatively, you can leave your car at the nearby train station of Verbania Pallanza (so you can arrive by train too). The trail first leads through a wooded area

before coming to a campground, which you are allowed to traverse. Once done, there is a short stretch along the main road before you reach a trail up into the wood. Alternatively, you also could continue along the road. In the former case, the trail descends to the main road shortly before Mergozzo. Soon, you reach the town’s lungolago (lakeside promenade).

Be sure to check out this lovely town before taking up your way back to your start.

This time, you walk along an ancient mule track, which is mostly cobblestoned.

Shortly before the end of the walk, you come to an asphalt road. Turn left downhill to reach your starting point. You could also proceed uphill to get a look at Montorfano. This is a peaceful settlement with the remarkable Romanesque church of San Giovanni Battista.

Apparently, there is also a worthwhile viewpoint of Lake Maggiore a bit further up, but we missed it.

3. One way from Stresa to Belgirate via the Chestnut Trail (easy to moderate walk/hike)

Link to track on Outdooractive (not done)

Stresa – Villa Pallavicino – Passera – Belgirate (back by boat or train)

Duration: 2 – 3 hours / Length: 7.8 km (4.8 mi) / Ascent/Descent: 283 m (929 ft)

As I have not done this trail yet I cannot share insights from personal experience. But I saw it mentioned often on the internet, so I concluded it must be worthwhile doing. The Chestnut Trail connects Stresa with Belgirate via an ancient mule track, which is further up the hill. Yet it does not require a steep hike up. The trailhead to this path is even marked on Google Map (Inizio Sentiero dei Castagni Stresa). It is close to Parco Pallvicino (see below). Once arrived in Belgirate you can take the boat or the train to return to Stresa. I will not offer a tour description as I have not walked the trail.

After elaborating on walks in the Stresa area, now to less strenuous activities here.

Some of the best activities around Stresa

I start with a sight in the town of Stresa before going into the most popular thing to do in the area, just off the coast of Stresa. Of course, it is about the Borromean Islands.

1. Parco Pallavicino in Stresa

This is about the Villa Pallavicino, located on the outskirts of Stresa towards Belgirate. I have not been here yet, so the information provided is based on “hearsay”. You need about ten minutes by foot from Stresa’s ferry to reach Parco Pallavicino. The property was purchased by the Pallavicino family back in 1862, who transformed the simple dwelling standing here into a splendid neoclassical-style villa. They did this complete with creating a gorgeous park full of diverse plants and statues. In 1952 finally, Marquise Luisa, began to welcome animals from all over the world. And in 1956, the Pallavicino family transformed their estate into a zoo open to the public.

Nowadays, the park is home to over 50 species of animals, including zebras, wallabies or also native deer. In addition, there are a cafe and playground. The villa however is not open to the public. For sure, visiting Parco Pallavicino is one of the best activities in Stresa when traveling with kids.

2. The Borromean Islands, off the coast of Stresa

About the Borromean Islands

A boat trip to the Borromean Islands is a must-do activity when being in Stresa, also known as the “Eden of Italy”! It is about three idyllic islands: Isola Bella, the most notable, Isola Madre, the most peaceful, and Isola dei Pescatori, the busiest.

It is possible to visit all three islands by boat from Stresa’s ferry in one day. In case you can only go to one of them, choose Isola Bella, the masterpiece of the trio.

If you wish to omit one, I would leave out Isola dei Pescatori.

While they say you find here an old fishing village, unchanged by time, my husband and I judge it differently. We encountered mainly an island with only restaurants and souvenir shops.

About the Borromeo family

Now to what is behind the Borromean Islands. Originally, they were home to the aristocratic Borromeo family. They were merchants in San Miniato near Florence around 1300 and became bankers in Milan after 1370. Between the 14th and 17th century they were able to gain control of an “almost state” in the Valdossola/Lake Maggiore area within the Duchy of Milan. This “Borromeo’s State” ended in 1797 with Napoleon Bonaparte’s invasion. However, the family could keep their ample estates, one of them the Borromean Islands. And they still own the majority of them (Bella and Madre).

How to visit the Borromean Islands

When it comes to how to visit the Borromean Islands, I would suggest using Navigazione del Lago Maggiore (NLM), the official Italian state owned company. This because their boats run frequently and this also into the afternoon. Usually, in shoulder and high season, you have to wait not more than half an hour until a boat arrives (on a hop-on hop-off basis). You can buy tickets online or onsite inside the ferry building, either right before your trip or earlier (we bought them the previous day).

My favorite Borromeon Islands, Isola Bella & Isola Madre

Now some short words to Isola Bella and Isola Madre, my two favorites among the Borromean Islands. The former draws more people than the latter. And I already knew if from an earlier visit quite some years ago, undertaken from Ascona/Switzerland, which was quite a trip.

By no doubt, Isola Bella is the chef d’oeuvre of this trio.

There are a palace and a garden (one entrance fee for both) brought together in the form of an imaginary ship (Palazzo Borromeo). Originally, Isola Bella – named after Isabella, countess Borromeo – mostly was an empty rock. Vast quantities of soil were brought in to build a system of ten terraces for the garden. The unfinished building displays paintings and tapestries.

Isola Madre, the largest of the three islands, is also noted for its gardens.

They are kept as an English-style botanic garden with lots of rare plants and exotic flowers.

Yet the (uninhabited) palace is quite a sight too. It is beautifully decorated with 16th to 19th century Italian masterpieces and paintings.

After going into Stresa’s main sights, there is much more to do a bit further away.

3. Verbania with Villa Taranto and Villa Giulia

Verbania is the largest town on the lake and from what I heard – I have not been to the town center – not overrun by tourists.

As all the other lakeside towns on Lake Maggiore, it has its lungolago (lakeside promenade). Plus, there are the botanical garden of Villa Taranto and the country house of Villa Giulia (see above walk No 1). While the former persuades with its 3,000 plants from all over the world (villa is closed to the public), the latter can be visited on the occasion of exhibitions and other events.

4. Town hopping from Stresa

Apart from Verbania there are more towns you should not miss, so town hopping from Stresa is a recommended activity when staying here. And many can be reached both by boat and train. Unfortunately, my husband and I had only time to visit one of these places worthwhile seeing. It is about Sesto Calende,

where we stopped on our transfer from Alba to Stresa. It is right at the bottom of the lake, a pretty town where Lake Maggiore becomes the river Ticino. Not only boasts it an attractive historic center but there are also great lidos and lots of opportunities to walk along the water.

Further up the lake in the direction of Stresa, you come across Arona. It seems to be a quaint medieval town. You find here the bronze statue of Saint Carlo Borromeo (see above section about the Borromeo family), overlooking the town. Saint Carlo was the patriarch of the Borromeo presence in the area.

Right across the lake is Rocca di Angera, the Borromeo family’s imposing fortress. It is an impressive accumulation of five different constructions, built between the 11th and 17 the centuries. It is home of the 12-room Museo della Bambola with the Borromeo family’s collection of dolls. Plus, you can visit the vineyards that surround the fortress.

Another impressive sight is Santa Caterina del Sasso, a monastery located less than half an hour by car north from Rocca di Angera. The three buildings from the 13th and 14th centuries cling spectacularly to the steep rocky precipice. If you come by car, you either climb down more than 200 steps or use the lift (for a fee). When arriving by boat, you have to ascend 80 steps from the ferry quai.

Looking back at my Piedmont mini-series

This very post about what to do around Stresa is the last of seven posts concerning a Piedmont trip that my husband and I recently undertook. Before, I wrote about the best (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants around this town on the Lake Maggiore in the Piedmont’s north. And the first blogpost gave details to the top luxury accommodation in this area close to Switzerland, Boutique Hotel Stresa.

I covered exactly the same three topics for another Piedmont region further south, the wine region around Alba (where to stay and dine in style and what to do). All this was introduced by a 11-day Piedmont itinerary that included not only the area around Alba and Stresa but also two stopovers. One of those was in Caluso, north of Turin, the other in the Swiss west.

Date of stay: July 2024

Pin it for later

The post Some of the best things to do around Stresa in the northern Piedmont/Italy first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Some of the best things to do around Stresa in the northern Piedmont/Italy appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

While Stresa itself has some dining spots recommended by Michelin, my husband and I did not choose them. Either they appeared too traditional or too touristy to us. Instead we headed to its surroundings on our search for the best fine-dining restaurants in the Stresa area. There was one exception, and this was the restaurant at our hotel, Boutique Hotel Stresa (my review), where we enjoyed two fine dinners. As to Stresa’s vicinity, we found two gourmet spots (both Michelin listed) that we were fond of. The one was an elegant two-star place, the other was a modern, rather casual eatery. What they both had in common were their great setting, hovering on the lake.

Before coming to more details on three of the best (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants around Stresa, some lines about the Piedmont journey my husband and I undertook.

11-day road trip in the Piedmont/Swiss west in style

Our trip had two focuses in the Piedmont, the first in the wine region around Alba in the Langhe, the other in Stresa on Lake Maggiore (see itinerary). These were complemented by two stopovers, one in Caluso north of Turin (Piedmont), the other in the Swiss west (near Lake Geneva). As always when traveling, my husband and I look out for best places for staying and dining in style. And we like to walk everywhere we go.

Regarding to the first main destination near Alba, I published three posts. While the first was about our luxury hotel, the second went into three of the best (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants. The third finally focused on activities in the area. When it comes to Stresa, I cover the same topics. Already on my blog there is a review on the high-end hotel we stayed at (my post). A report on things to do here will end my Piedmont mini-series.

3 of the best (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants around Stresa on the Lake Maggiore

As I mentioned above, one of the best fine-dining places I identified around Stresa is in the town itself. This one will made the start. Then I look at the flagship restaurant in the area, a two-star Michelin spot. A no-frills eatery will end my reporting on the best (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants around Stresa.

1. LeBolle Restaurant at Boutique Hotel Stresa

About

LeBolle is the “hotel restaurant” at Boutique Hotel Stresa. My husband and I had a four-night stay at this splendid property opened in 2023.

As LeBolle Restaurant looked appealing and got good reviews, we booked two dinners here. This in addition to having breakfast here on four days. As to the latter, it was a good experience. Apart from choosing from a well-assorted buffet, you could also order from an à la carte menu. While some more elaborate dishes costed extra, others just as fresh fruit salad, a bowl of wild berries or pancakes were free of charge.

The head chef at LeBolle Restaurant is Andrea Falciola, who seems to be quite experienced when it comes to working in hotel kitchens in the Lake Maggiore region. Among other places of work, he also was head chef at Grand Hotel Dino in Baveno, another five-star hotel in the area.

What to expect at LeBolle Restaurant?

As to dining here, you have three options location wise. Weather permitting, you can dine at the outdoor restaurant. Here you can select either one of the “regular” tables or – depending on availability – one of five bubbles.

I highly recommend the latter as having a meal in such an igloo made of glass and wood is quite a unique experience. If the weather does not cooperate, dining indoors is also nice. An elegant and contemporarily furnished dining-room with an open cuisine awaits you. And this comes complete with generous spacing between tables for more privacy and personal space.

In terms of cuisine, you are in here for upscale Mediterranean food with a modern touch. As usual in Italy, you can opt for dishes in four sections (starters, first courses, second courses and desserts). My husband and I thought that three courses were enough for an average eater. Starters (21 to 26€) included a rabbit terrine, an amberjack ceviche or a tomato millefeuille. First courses (22 to 29€) were all about risotto and pasta. As to the mains (24 to 38€), sea bass, suckling pig or a veggie dish were on offer. And desserts (18€) were varied, from a trio of sorbets to a pineapple steak to a cheesecake and less common creations.

How was it?

On both evenings, we were satisfied with what we had. Both times, we ordered either a pasta dish or a risotto to start the meal. As one would expect in Italy, they know how to do such dishes. I especially liked the Matcha Spaghettoni with Gomashio, Spinach and Shiitake Mushrooms. It was a great combination of western and eastern flavors.

Concerning the mains, they were also good but maybe a tad below the starters regarding taste and creativity. My favorite among them were the sea bass fillet with Moroccan lemon, anchovy saue and roasted eggplant. All the desserts we had (three out of five) were smooth and refined. The White Dream, a yoghurt sponge cake with white chocolate and cherry, was the one one I preferred most.

Andrea Falciola comes across as an accomplished chef, impressing with classics that are modernly interpreted. All the dishes we had came with a shot of innovation. He skillfully let flow Asian and Oriental influences in his western creations. The setting is hard to beat – in particular if you are lucky enough to secure one of those Bubbles! And the staff was hospitable, gracious and very Italian (a bit old school).

2. Restaurant Piccolo Lago in Verbania

About

Restaurant Piccolo Lago is for sure the most renowned gourmet restaurant in Stresa and surroundings. It has been helmed by chef Marco Sacco together with his wife and restaurant manager Raffaella Marchetti since the 1990s. The dining-spot, established in 1974 by the chef’s parents, has held two Michelin stars since 2007. However, in the guide for 2025, Piccolo Lago ist not listed. Apparently, the award has been put on hold, and this because of a first degree conviction for food poisoning (March 2024). An appeal is scheduled for spring 2025, so there are hopes that the sentence might be reversed. Despite this difficult situation, Marco Sacco vowed at the verdict that he would not give up cooking. And he has kept his word so far.

What to expect?

I have to admit that I did not know about this case of food poisoning when dining here in summer 2024. What I noticed at the time that there were not too many guests present. Yet the restaurant is spacious, 60 to 70 guests can be accommodated at this dream-like setting on Lake Mergozzo, about 15 minutes away from Stresa. And we got one of the best tables, right at the end of the over-hanging section that extends over the lake.

Plus, Raffaella Marchetti invited us to have a look around in the kitchen.

In any case, I am confident you are in here for a memorable (and safe) culinary experience. The food poisoning case I mentioned was about raw clams imported from France infected with the norovirus. They came in sealed packets from a long-term supplier.

On offer on our visit was a an eight-course tasting menu for 220€ that could be extended by one of the chef’s signatures courses. It was about his take of spaghetti carbonara, the Carbonara au Koque for 20€.

Alternatively, you could choose from an à la carte menu that consisted of 13 dishes. The latter is a novelty, which was not possible at Piccolo Lago for 20 years. Starters were between 40 and 50€, first courses from 40 to 55€, main courses between 50 and 60€ and desserts costed 25€.

How was it at one of the best fine-dining restaurants around Stresa?

The chef is known as “freshwater chef” thanks to his dedication to the local fish world. When my husband and I dined here, there were not that many fish dishes on the menu. My husband and I picked the only two that were available – we opted for à la carte. We ordered one from each of the mentioned sections (four dishes) and found that was just right in terms of quantity. And there were also snacks and a “post-dessert”.

While my husband started with Mother Earth, a vegetable dish, I had Ingot, trout in combination with raspberries, balsamic and flowers. We continued with the above mentioned Carbonara au Koque, where we got an eggshell with the sauce to dress the pasta at the table. As a main course, my husband chose the local eel done with local tea and rose sorbet. I had the Zucchina Trombetta, a zucchini dish with peas and beans. For desserts, we had Milk & Mint, made of ricotta, buckwheat, curry and coconut, and Chocolate, made with wine, goji, rose and sorbet. What for ingenious creations these all were! And service was of the highest level too.

3. Restaurant Battipalo in Lesa

About

As above, you are here directly on the lake. This time, it is Lake Maggiore and it is about a small town, Lesa. From Stresa, you get here in 10 minutes by car. Alternatively, you can arrive by boat as Battipalo is right next to the ferry dock. The restaurant is actually housed in the former ferry house. A middle-aged husband and wife team has been in charge here, Simona Benetti (chef) and Gabriele Boggio (host), and this since 2009. From what I read, they are both job switchers, she used to run a nearby optician’s shop, and he was in sales. But finally, they followed the call of their hearts and did what they liked best. And they really do it well! She did some internships with highly decorated chefs. He as a wine lover deepened his knowledge in this field. In the course of years, he has developed a knack for excellent niche products, we had a formidable (and reasonably priced) champagne here, a premier cru Vincent Bliard.

What to expect at Restaurant Battipalo?

Restaurant Battipalo is a modern dining spot in a gorgeous setting, hanging litterally over Lake Maggiore.

And there is also a lovely outdoor area.

While it is a relaxed place, you get here high-quality food with creative touches (Michelin listed). On the menu, you find (of course) lots of fish, yet also quite many meat dishes. As usual in Italy, the à la carte menu is divided into four sections. On our visit, each included four dishes, in addition cheese was available in the forth too.

For starters, think of a stuffed courgette flower, a deer tartare or zander tataki (17 to 19€). In terms of pasta and risotto, there was a cheese risotto with strawberries and peas, Roman gnocchi with snail ragu or tagliatelle with ragu (18 to 19€). When it came to mains (24 to 26€), you could choose between two fish dishes (freshwater and vegetable tempura or sturgeon steak) and two meat options (lamp rump or beef sirloin). To end the meal, the choice was between a zabaione,

a parfait or a puff pastry cannon (7 to 9€). Alternatively, there is the opportunity of a 5-course surprise menu for 60€.

How was it?

My husband and I had three courses each and considered it as sufficient for an average eater. In case you should be really hungry, opt for a forth or share an additional course with your diner companion. While my husband opted for pasta (tagliatelle with white ragu, asparagus and morels), I decided on the courgette flower stuffed with hummus and courgette cream. As main, we both had the sturgeon steak paired with asparagus and tzatziki. For dessert we chose a puff pastry cannon filled with slightly spiced cream and local daisies.

Everything we had was immaculately done, tasty and often a bit out of the box. I was pleasantly surprised that the chef was adept at subtle details! And we had a great corner table by the large windows where you feel like floating above the lake.

Also service wise I can only praise the staff’s work.

One more nearby restaurant recommendation

As we have not traveled the Italian Lakes area for the first time, I have one more restaurant recommendation for you. And it is not just another “normal” place but a three-star Michelin dining spot. It is about Villa Crespi on the nearby Lake Orta. You get here from Stresa in about half an hour by car. Find here my post about staying and dining at Villa Crespi. Our stay here dates back to 2021 when the restaurant “only” had two Michelin stars.

And also consider dining at Villa Crespi’s sister property, which is nearby. It is called Laqua by the Lake. I have not been here yet, but the dining spot has just received a Michelin star!

Looking back and forward on my Piedmont mini-series

After presenting a 11-day Piedmont itinerary (including a side trip to the Swiss west), I went into our two main stops here. One was in the wine region around Alba, the other was in Stresa on one of the Italian Lakes, Lake Maggiore, near Switzerland. In both cases, I wrote about where to stay (around Alba/Stresa) and dine (around Alba) in style plus what to do (around Alba). This very post was about where to go as a fine-dining lover in Stresa. And the one about activities in Stresa is yet to appear on my blog.

Date of stay: July 2024

Pin it for later

The post 3 of the best (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants around Stresa in the northern Piedmont/Italy first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post 3 of the best (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants around Stresa in the northern Piedmont/Italy appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

You may have never heard of Stresa, but it is one the older tourist resorts in Europe. This small, elegant town, embracing Lake Maggiore’s western shore, is part of the Piedmont, in the very north of Italy. Its rise began in the early 20th century when the Simplon Tunnel opened and trains on the London-Paris-Milan line made a stop here. Ever since, tourists flock to Stresa, also because of its most famous sight, the three Borromean Islands. While my husband and I have vacationed in the nearby Swiss Ticino many times, we never made it to this lakeside town. Until recently, when we decided to combine Stresa with a stay in the Piedmont wine region around Alba. And we did so also because news had reached us about a just unveiled hotel, Boutique Hotel Stresa, which is probably the best luxury hotel in town.

Before coming to the newly opened Boutique Hotel Stresa, I want to provide some more information on Stresa.

About Stresa

Most luxury travelers – especially from the U.S. – rather head to Lake Como than to Lake Maggiore. And that is the reason that this region, which is also lovely, has become very pricy. When it comes to Stresa, this is different as it is not so on North American tourists’ radar. And while I secretly hope that this does not change much, I cannot help but promoting Stresa a bit.

To get here from Milan by car or train, you need just over an hour. This makes it an ideal base for exploring Italy’s second-largest lake. Lake Maggiore stretches along the border between Piedmont and Lombardy all the way up into Switzerland. As a side note, when doing this trip you come to Ascona/Switzerland. And you will find quite a few posts on my blog related to this beautiful town. As to Stresa, there is a bunch of things to do in and around this lakeside resort. You will find a post about some of these activities later on my blog.

A few quicks words on Stresa as a place. While it is not large, it has everything you need for a few laid-back days on the lake. There is a promenade bordered by palms and flowerbeds with lots of spots to have a drink.

It evokes the atmosphere of the Belle Époque with lots of luxury villas and opulent hotels lining the lake’s shore. I have already mentioned Stresa’s most famous sight, the Borromean Islands that catch the eye immediately.

And the scenery is dominated by a forest alpine backdrop that fades into the snow-capped peaks on the horizon. Plus, this small town is blessed with a mild climate.

Staying in style at Boutique Hotel Stresa on Lake Maggiore in northern Piedmont

While there already was the one or other luxury hotel in Stresa before Boutique Hotel Stresa, I was not necessarily drawn to its hotellerie. So, I much welcomed the arrival of this high-end lodging option in the lakeside town. After some info about the accommodation’s back story I come to all the other details of interest for (luxury) travelers about Stresa’s best hotel.

Back story Boutique Hotel Stresa

Boutique Hotel Stresa’ story goes back a long time. The construction of the historic Stresiana villa is attributed to the Swiss architect Augusto Guidini (1853 – 1928). The property is known as Casa d’Oro or also as Villa Ostini, as the entrepreneur Ostini took it over in 1940.

After a remarkable three-year long restoration, the villa, transformed to a luxury hotel, opened its doors in August 2023. The building’s celebrated facade remains yet belies the modernity within. 26 spacious, state-of-the art rooms await you here. No comprises were made to create a cutting-edge accommodation yet with the charm of the past.

This new old gem of a hotel belongs to Preferred Hotels & Resorts. When it comes to the ownership structure of Boutique Hotel Stresa, the whole thing remains a bit nebulous. When researching this topic, I came across the name of the Russian entrepreneur Aleksey Fisun. This investor holds a dual passport and has been an Italian citizen resident on the lake for several years. In a more recent publication, I read that Svetlana Fisun (Daughter?) was the hotel owner. She also appears to be a dual citizen and resident in Stresa.

Location of the best luxury hotel in Stresa

The hotel could not be more favorably located in the town of Stresa. It is in the center of this lakeside resort, just adjoining the old town and opposite the promenade. You can reach the Stresa Ferry Terminal in a five-minute walk from here. To get to the train station, you can do this in ten minutes by foot. From the lodging’s roof top restaurant, you have the most stunning views of the lake, the Borromean Islands and the surroundings. And it is situated just between the Villa Ducale, Stresa’s oldest building, and another hotel, the Regina Palace.

Ambiance/Staff

I mentioned it, Boutique Hotel Stresa is a true jewel. It is one of the most beautiful hotels I have stayed in the recent past. Everywhere your eyes fall you find beauty and perfection. The unique allure of the place has been kept, yet at the same time the property got a new contemporary, unpretentious look. The front view of the hotel, where you can only see its old facade, is quite different from its side view. The latter discloses that two (Or three?) historic buildings have been connected by a contemporary modern building. Old and new are united in harmony.

The employees’ attitude is exemplary. We encountered an exceptional service from every member of staff, and this all the time. I was astonished to notice that even the bellboy, a young male, was articulate and fluent in English. He said and did all the right things at the appropriate time. At breakfast, we were pampered by the server, an older male. I think he also did so as there were not that many guests around on our stay.

Rooms/Pricing at Boutique Hotel Stresa

Room categories

As I already let you know, everything is top notch here. And this is true for the guest rooms as well, which offer the most modern equipment and exceptional comfort. There are three main categories: Garden, Lake and Peacock, with ascending value.  As to the Garden category, you can choose among Petit Garden (30 sqm), Garden Suite and Grand Suite Garden (both 45 sqm). It remains unclear to me what the difference is between the latter two. We had the Grand Suite Garden. While we had a large balcony, I noticed that other Garden Rooms did not. All the rooms of this category overlook the garden of the Villa Ducale. This is a good thing as this is the quieter side.

The next higher main category is the Lake. Here you can go either for the Suite Lago (45 sqm), the Grand Suite Lago (45 sqm) or the Corner Suite (60 sqm). Again, I cannot figure out what distinguishes the Grand Suite Lago from the Suite Lago. As far as the orientation of the rooms is concerned, I assume that they predominantly face the street that turns into the main road (actually the side view of the property). While you enjoy a lake view from here, you also have to consider the somewhat busy street.

The highest main category is the Peacock, with five different rooms ranging from 65 sqm to 155 sqm. And I presume all of them have panoramic lake views.

Pricing at the best luxury hotel in Stresa

I checked out the room pricing (best available with breakfast) for the beginning of August 2025 (high season), and this during the week. As to the Garden category, prices vary from 591€ to 900€. As far as the Lake is concerned, rates are between 810 and 1,264€. And the least expensive Peacock Suite starts at 1,446€.

Now to the room we had – as you know by now, it is about a Grand Suite Garden.

Grand Suite Garden

Visiting Stresa in early July over the weekend, we considered the pricing for our generously sized Grand Suite Garden (870€) as appropriate. I fell heavily in love with the gorgeously sleek room kept in blue, brown and light beige. There was not only a seating area but also a high table and chairs.

Our Grand Suite Garden was in the front section of the three-part building. This even allowed us to catch sight of the lake from our spacious covered balcony.

Also the bathroom embraced contemporary style in design. It was huge and kept in a dark grey.

The one thing not that ideal was the room being a bit on the dark side (three windows instead of two would have been better, but of course it is a historic building).

One reason for us to choose this room category was the option to have two single beds instead of one double bed. Unfortunately, this did not work out, so we had to make do with a king size bed instead. Yet, it was comfortable, and they arranged for two covers (which were too wide). Another issue was that the air conditioning was not set cool enough. We had to ask several times for an adjustment – apparently the temperature returned to the initial position every time when they cleaned the room. In addition, the fridge was not cold enough either. Plus, they did not refill the drinks in it every day (which were included in the room rate). Said that, these minor issues did not spoil our stay here, which was really great.

Facilities at the best luxury hotel in Stresa

Apart from the restaurants, into which I go further below, Boutique Hotel Stresa features following amenities. On the middle building’s roof you find a sun deck complete with loungers, tables and chairs, a small pool with jacuzzi massage and a bar service. And you have the most fabulous lake view from here.

In terms of relaxation and health, there are four private spa suites on site, each with a unique concept. For example, the Natura Suite transports you in some kind of alpine barn. And as these accommodation also have beds, you are able to stay here overnight.

Restaurants at Boutique Hotel Stresa

On the premises of Boutique Hotel Stresa, two restaurants are at your disposal. One is the fine-dining spot (LeBolle Restaurant), which also is the breakfast place. The other is the bar (Rooftop Perlage), where you can have drinks and light meals.

1. LeBolle Restaurant, the fine-dining spot

The main eatery at Boutique Hotel Stresa is LeBolle Restaurant. Le Bolle translates in English The Bubbles. There are five of these igloos made of glass and wood in the garden overlooking the lake. They definitely are the flagship sign of this dining spot and regularly arouse the curiosity of passers-by.

But it is not only about appearance at LeBolle but also about substance. The chef, Andrea Falciola, is knowledgeable in his field. At this high-end dining spot, they serve Mediterranean food with a twist made with quality produce. And they do this not only in The Bubbles of course but also in the modernly designed interiors

and in an outdoor area. My husband and I have dined here twice. All the details about how it was you will find in a separate post about best (Michelin) fine dining in Stresa later on my blog.

Also the breakfast is served at LeBolle Restaurant, located on the hotel’s ground floor. There is a well-assorted buffet plus an à la carte menu. From the latter, you can order some extra items just as fresh fruit salad, hot egg dishes or pancakes, and this with no additional costs. There is a section on the menu with selections just as egg Benedicts or smoked salmon, for which you have to pay extra. We liked what we got here and enjoyed our breakfast on our four days at this hotel.

2. Rooftop Perlage, the bar

The Rooftop Bar/Restaurant is the place to go for drinks and lake views. From here you really have a fabulous vista of Lake Maggiore and the Borromean Islands. Yet the panorama includes parts of Stresa too, also the neighboring Villa Ducale or Regina Palace Hotel. When staying at Boutique Hotel Stresa or at a nearby other place, do not miss the chance to benefit from these great views!

In terms of spending, drink prices are high. Cocktails cost 20€, gin drinks between 20 and 30€ and tonic waters 8€. Yet drinks are accompanied by things to nibble and a snack of the day. Service is knowledgeable and friendly. When it comes to food, there is quite a choice in the four sections of starters, first courses, second courses and desserts. In addition, you find here also a menu with typical aperitif snacks. Plus, they have a truly special selection of champagne here, although I have never seen a correspondent menu.

Overall on the best luxury hotel in Stresa

The new high-end Boutique Hotel Stresa on the Lake Maggiore in Italy’s north, close to Switzerland, hits many if not all the passion points for luxury travelers. They have it all at this upscale lodging: top location, immaculate premises, exquisite fine-dining, excellent staff and also that certain something. With the latter, I address The Bubbles in the garden, where you can have your meal when dining at their LeBolle Restaurant. These igloos are really an eye catcher. Yet at Boutique Hotel Stresa it is more than only about style. They deliver also in the area of content. What they do, they do it right at the best luxury hotel in Stresa.

And while Stresa is not Como or any other trendy place in Italy, it is a pleasant, pretty spot with lots of things do in town and surroundings. Find out about some of the activities in a post to appear on my blog soon. Furthermore, I will go into where to head as lovers of (Michelin) fine dining in and around Stresa.

Looking back and forward on my Piedmont reporting

In the paragraph before, I let you know what will come as to more content about Stresa. Now to what was before. The start of my reporting made a 11-day itinerary outlining three stops in the Piedmont and one in western Switzerland. Then I published three posts about the first main destination of the voyage, a stay near Alba in the typical Piedmont wine region. They included a review of the luxury hotel my husband and I stayed, three of the best (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants and things to do in the area.

With this very post, we have arrived at the second main destination, Stresa on the Lake Maggiore in the northern Piedmont. You have learnt more about probably the best luxury hotel in Stresa. Next is all about dining in style in and around this lakeside town and the final blogpost will inform on activities in the area.

Date of stay: July 2024

Pin it for later

The post Boutique Hotel Stresa, a high-end hotel in Stresa on Lake Maggiore/Piedmont, Italy first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Boutique Hotel Stresa, a high-end hotel in Stresa on Lake Maggiore/Piedmont, Italy appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

The Langhe region around Alba is one of the Piedmont’s most beautiful areas. It is worthwhile going to not only when being into wine and truffles but also when you like beautiful landscapes. Think in this context of delicate rolling hills covered with vineyards and dotted with picturesque villages. There is a bunch of activities to do in the Langhe. This region is ideal if you want to do some walking in the vines and/or village hopping. Some of the most stunning small towns in Italy can be found here. And if you plan it wisely, you even can combine these two things. But be advised, some walking up and down is almost always part of the program. Yet I think that I have found some really great tours that are not too strenuous. Truth to be told, I myself am not exactly a “mountain goat”.

Before I go into the activities, a few lines to the Langhe.

Langhe, Piedmont’s most stunning wine region

Chances are good that you know the Piedmont, one of 20 regions in Italy. It is located in the country’s northwest and is famous for its quality wine. As to the Langhe, it is one of the Piedmont’s sub regions around Alba. You find here a hilly landscape full of vineyards, situated a bit more to the Piedmont’s southwest.

The Langhe has been on the UNESCO’s World Heritage List since 2014. This together with Roero and Monferrato and because of their cultural landscape. They got this honor owing to their wine growing tradition, which also has an aesthetic value. That makes the Langhe such a splendid place to go for travelers who appreciate this kind of rural settings. And they grow some of the best Italy’s here, think in this context of Barolo or Barbaresco.

My husband and I have been to the Langhe twice in three years. While we lodged in Alba’s east last time, we chose its south instead on our recent stay. And both areas are gorgeous, although the latter even more so, in my opinion. Maybe also check out my post at the time about things to do more in Alba’s east. I informed on two easy walks, two stunning villages and a memorable truffle hunt. One of the villages I wrote about at this point of time – Monforte d’Alba – will also be a topic in the current post.

In terms of activities in the Langhe, I start with three easy to moderate walks before going into some of the most beautiful villages in the area.

3 of the best loop walks/hikes in the Langhe

I already mentioned it, you cannot entirely avoid going up and down when walking in the Langhe. But after some research, I think I have found three walks/hikes that are doable for persons with a decent physical fitness. I will indicate the difficulty level  of all tours. And as I have tracked all of them on Outdooractive, you can navigate them on this hiking app with my correspondent links.

1. Loop around Monforte d’Alba (moderate to difficult walk/hike)

Link to track on Outdooractive

Monforte d’Alba – Serralunga d’Alba – Perno – Monforte d’Alba

Duration: 3 – 4 hours / Length: 13.9 km (8.6 mi) / Ascent/Descent: 534 m (1,752 ft)

This is my favorite among all the tours I have ever done in the Langhe. This because of all the beautiful views you have most of the time when doing this activity. In addition, Serralunga d’Alba is a lovely village well worth exploring (see below under 5 of the most beautiful villages in the Langhe). Plus, we were practically on our own the whole tour (no other hikers around).

Tour description

The walk starts in Monforte d’Alba, and this in the town center. From here you walk to the top of the old town, around Castello di Monforte – Palazzo Scarampi. This village is one of Italy’s most beautiful ones, according to I Borghi più belli d’Italy (The most beautiful Villages in Italy). If you want to know more about it, I have provided some information in an earlier post. And I also included this place in the chapter about beautiful villages further below.

Not long after leaving the village, you already can enjoy beautiful views of vineyards. And far away, you catch sight of the first village you are going to reach, Serralunga d’Alba.

But first you have to manage the first of two descents – it goes down 300 m (984 ft). And try not to think of the fact that you have to climb up this difference in altitude later on.

Before you ascend towards Serralunga d’Alba, you cross a hazelnut orchard.

And once arrived in this village, make a rest and explore this stunning place.

Then continue in the direction of Perno.

In case you have enough force and time left for some more village discovering, go ahead – we did not. Instead we tackled the ascent towards Monforte d’Alba. It is less steep than the ascent at the start, yet you need some more time to do it.

2. Loop around Barolo (easy walk)

Link to track on Outdooractive

Duration: 1¾ – 2  hours / Length: 6.9 km (4.3 mi) / Ascent/Descent: 202 m (656 ft)

After exploring the gorgeous village of Barolo in the Langhe, an easy walk in its vineyards is a nice activity to do as well.

Tour description

Barolo also belongs to the above mentioned most beautiful villages in Italy. So, you absolutely should roam about it before taking off to your tour.

Right in the town center you follow a street that brings you to the village’s vineyards. The first part of the trail is a bit above the main road, yet most time leading through the vineyards. While you can hear the traffic noise, it was not too bad on our walk (not too busy).

Roughly half way there, you cross the main road. Now you are in for the more remote part of the trail, leading back to Barolo. Shortly before reaching this village again, there is quite a steep descent towards the town center.

3. Loop around Treiso (moderate walk)

Link to track on Outdooractive

Duration: 2 – 2½ hours / Length: 7.3 km (4.5 mi) / Ascent/Descent: 308m (1,011 ft)

This walk is not in Alba’s south as all the other activities/places I am going into this post. Instead it is on the east side of this regional capital. While it is also a Langhe wine region, it is a bit less hilly and less memorable as the one from the before mentioned walks.

Tour description

You begin the walk in Treiso’s town center.

First, you descend through a vineyard and then along a creek in a forested area. Before coming to a hamlet, you move towards the opposite hill where you make an ascent.

Once done, you continue along the ridge back in the direction of Treiso.

Just before reaching the village again, you can either follow the vineyard trail or the main road (Via Alba). We did the former. While this was pleasant at the beginning, shortly before Treiso we had to climb a very steep “path” (not really one) through the vineyards. And this was rather a pain to do. So, think twice before following our example!

Now it is about village hopping in Alba’s south.

6 of the most beautiful villages in the Langhe

I have already mentioned the I Borghi più belli di’Italia, the association of the most beautiful villages in Italy. It was founded in 2002 within the ANCI Tourism Council. This with the aim of promoting the country’s great heritage in terms of history, art, culture and landscapes. And this as far as villages are concerned. At the moment, the Piedmont has 18 villages that made it into this list.

So far in this post, I brought up two such villages. On the one hand, this was Monforte d’Alba (for more details refer to a past post on the Langhe). On the other hand, I named Barolo. In the post I just mentioned I went into a third one too, Neive (here are the specifics about it). Yet, on our trip we encountered three more gorgeous small towns in the Langhe which are not part of this association. I previously wrote about Serralunga d’Alba. And I have two more, La Morra and Montelupo Albese. So, there are many activities related to village hopping in the Langhe.

Now to the villages in question. All of them are in Alba’s south with the exception of Neive.

1. Monforte d’Alba (part of I Borghi più belli di’Italia)

As you have learnt by now, I previously went into Monforte d’Alba (my post). So, find here only one short remark to it. Do no miss walking up from the main piazza (Umberto I) to the old town’s highest point, the Piazza Antica Chiesa. This is really a rewarding thing to do!

2. Barolo (part of I Borghi più belli di’Italia)

When getting to this medieval village on a cloudy day in early summer, my husband and I thought that it was astonishingly uncrowded. Make your way along Barolo’s cobblestone lanes toward the ancient castle. It used to be a defensive fortress and later on a country home for the wealthy Falletti family. Today it houses the Barolo Wine Museum. Maybe also visit an enoteca for a wine tasting. After all, the Barolo wine is the most esteemed of all Italian wines!

3. Neive (part of I Borghi più belli di’Italia)

Neive is in Alba’s northeast, about 15 minutes by car north of Treiso (see above, loop No. 3). As this village was the topic of another post just as Monforte d’Alba, only one small note on it. The best thing to do here is to walk from its south gate (San Rocco) to the one in the north (San Sebastiano).

4. Serralunga d’Alba

Serralunga d’Alba, which we discovered while doing above described walk No. 1, is a sleepy village. You find here medieval streets extending from a slim brick castle with tall watchtowers. It was never used for military purposes but instead was owned by the Falletti family – as the one in Barolo. You can visit it on certain days, check it out in advance in case you are interested (Castello di Serralunga d’Alba).

Otherwise just wander the streets, drink in the fantastic views you have from here of the surrounding landscape and maybe taste some wine.

5. La Morra

La Morra is the place to go to get an overview of the region. And this is because this village is atop a ridge. From Piazza Castello, the town’s main square, you have truly fabulous views of the area. The panorama stretches from vineyard-striped valleys to faraway villages and – weather permitting – snow-capped Alps.

Yet also stroll along the streets of the pretty old town. And of course, a visit to a wine shop is also possible here.

6. Montelupo Albese

This handsome village is far off the beaten tourist paths. And my husband and I only landed here because of its proximity to the hotel we stayed (Hotel Casa di Langa). It is something like the little sister of La Morra as it is also perched on a crest. Its views are also impressive, yet not that expansive and not of the known wine villages but of Alba.

What I liked here was the quietude of this village, which probably does not draw many visitors. All the better, so you have the picturesque medieval streets to yourself. An interesting fact here is also the project “Lupus in Fabula”. As the name of the village means wolf mountain, Montelupo Albese has invited artists from all over Italy to tell all the fairy tales about wolves through murals.

Looking back and forward

My mini series about a Piedmont journey has two parts. One is about the Langhe wine region around Alba, the second concerns Stresa on the Lake Maggiore, in the north near Switzerland. In this last post of part one informed about things to do near Alba. Before, I already went into (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants and a luxury hotel in the area. The start of my Piemont reporting made a 11-day itinerary of the whole trip – three stops in the Piedmont and one in the Swiss west.

In the time to come, you will find the same for part two of the voyage in Stresa (best luxury hotel, best fine-dining restaurants and what to do). You will learn about where to stay and dine in style as well as what to do in and around this town on the Lake Maggiore, especially if you like walking.

Date of stay: July 2024

Pin it for later

The post best activities near Alba in the Langhe/Piedmont, Italy first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Some of the best activities near Alba in the Langhe/Piedmont, Italy appeared first on Swiss Traveler.