Details to each stop of a trip from California towards east & back: 

In my last blogpost I gave an overview of a journey through the American southwest that my husband and I took lately, our 9th (!) in the area. Whenever we travel, we try to do this in style. This means staying at luxury hotels and dining at fine dining (Michelin) restaurants. But only if they are worth the expense. This was not any different on our recent trip, at least in the terms of intentions. Unfortunately, we encountered some difficulties, be it price wise or due to lack of suitable establishments. Finally, I managed to make an itinerary that met our requirements more or less. The aim of this post is to provide some details to the individual stops of our American southwest voyage in style.

Before doing so, here my Google Map of the trip, as a reminder.

My Google Map of our American southwest journey in style

You find on my Google Map not only all the hotels and restaurants of our trip through America’s “Wild West” but also cafés and ice-cream shops I was fond of. Furthermore, I listed all the activities we did on our American southwest voyage in style. All the things I mention come with short descriptions plus pictures.

In the following, I would like to give you some info about every place we visited. You will find out about its importance respectively its sights. Then there will be details about where we stayed and dined, plus where we went for quick bites and what we did.

From place to place in the American southwest, in style, whenever possible

After flying into Los Angeles, we proceeded to the nearby beach town of Hermosa Beach to start our American southwest trip in style. Next was one night in Las Vegas before traveling to Page in Arizona’s north. Then we went south in this American state, first to Sedona for a longer stay, afterwards to Scottsdale. From here we continued towards west in direction of the coast, precisely to San Diego. There was one more stop before reaching the Los Angeles International Airport again, and this in Dana Point/Laguna Beach in the Orange County.

1. Hermosa Beach (South Bay, south of Los Angeles)

General/sights

This is a laid-back beachfront town

not far from the Los Angeles International Airport LAX (13 minutes by car) and therefore ideal for a first stop after flying in. My husband and I already cycled along The Strand – a cement pedestrian path along the beach –

on an earlier stay. And we did the same thing again, only the vice versa. This is really a great thing to do, even if not being into biking (as I am)! Otherwise, Hermosa Beach is a pleasant place with a nice pier, a beautiful two-mile stretch of sand beach and gorgeous homes lining the Strand.

Staying & dining in style in Hermosa Beach

In terms of staying in style, there are two options. The (more expensive) one is directly on the beach, Beach House,

the other (opened in October 2021) one, H²O Hermosa,

is a few steps from the beach. My husband and I went for the latter – as we cared for having twin beds – and were satisfied with what we encountered (a breakfast bag was included).

As to dining in style, we had two great meals here. On the one hand, we had lunch at the newly opened Restaurant Ryla

(3 minutes by foot from our hotel), a modern Izakaya style eatery (casual Japanese), and experienced not only superb food but also good hospitality. On the other hand, we dined at Baran’s 2239

(Michelin Bib Gourmand), a lovely little bistro on the Pacific Coast Highway (21 minutes by foot from our hotel), and enjoyed well made contemporary Californian food in a welcoming setting.

2. Las Vegas

General/sights

On our way to the east, we made a “stopover” in Las Vegas.

We had opted for a one-night stay at this resort city in the Mojave Desert not primarily for its sights but for its excellent hospitality offerings. Notwithstanding that, we did not miss the chance to visit three attractions in its surroundings. We went to Seven Magic Mountains,

an art installation by a Swiss artist, the Red Rock Canyon State Park,

colorful rock formations, and the Valley of Fire State Park with similar sights.

Staying & dining in style in Las Vegas

There is truly no shortage of choices for staying and dining in style in the “Sin City”. If you arrive on Monday, all the better. At that day, room rates are often lower than at other times. My husband and I made use of a great offer at Encore Tower Suites

where we got hold of a fantastic, updated hotel room at a reasonable price.

As to dining, we had a memorable Imperial Peking Duck Tasting Menu at the in-house Chinese Restaurant Wing Lei.

It was definitely one of our trip’s culinary highlights. And the dining room (or better hall) is quite impressive too, although it is a bit loud in here. An interesting detail with Wing Lei is that it was the first Chinese restaurant in North America to earn a Michelin star (however Michelin does not rate Las Vegas restaurants anymore). Then it is also one of the Forbes Travel Guide Five-Star winners .

3. Page (north Arizona)

General/sights

After splurging in Las Vegas, we were up to a more frugal experience in Page

– as you find here midscale hotels at best. But first to its sights. This small town at the northernmost edge of the Arizona desert has much to offer in terms of nature wonders. While I long thought this was about the Horseshoe Bend

only, a horseshoe-shaped meander of the Colorado River, I was taught otherwise. Apparently, it gained infamous recognition for another site too, the Antelope Canyon, a slot canyon made of sandstone with famously undulating walls. Both have turned into social media darlings in recent years and draw lots of visitors.

After reading not so favorable reviews about Antelope Canyon (overcrowded), I decided to go to the Waterhole Canyon

instead. It was a good experience, although our guide was somewhat grumpy. And imagine, my husband and I had the canyon to ourselves, and this despite being on a guided group tour (the only possibility to visit this and the Antelope Canyon). Of course, we also had a look at the Horseshoe Bend, which is a short thing (you need one hour maximum for it, and you can go on your own).

Staying & dining in Page (not so much in style)

In spite of all this hype, Page has retained its small town character. It remained an unassuming place, however with lots of new chain hotels that all look alike. We had opted for the Country Inn & Suites by Radisson

because of its solid reviews and relatively newness (opened in April 2018). And it was okay but nothing more (spacious room but tiny bathroom, breakfast buffet included – but we skipped it). In case you are a big spender, why not pay around 4,000$ a day for a room at Amangiri, an ultra-luxurious hotel about 23 minutes by car from Page? It is up to you, I personally think that is absurdly overpriced. No hotel room in the world is worth that sum, or am I wrong here?

With regard to dining, we checked out all the restaurants in Page but could only warm to one, Sunset 89.

It is a simple eatery on the edge of the canyon off Highway 89. On offer here is nicely made Island Pacific Rim cuisine in a casual setting. You cannot make reservations here, just show up and take on the wait. But the views of Lake Powell and the Glen Canyon Dam behind the building make it more pleasant. Staff is friendly yet a bit on the stressed side. If you look for a breakfast place in Page, LP Espresso

is a pleasant spot for grabbing hot drinks and quick bites.

4. Sedona (central Arizona)

General/sights

When my family traveled the American southwest back in 2012, we had a short stay in Sedona after visiting the Grand Canyon. I absolutely fell in love with Red Rock Country,

as it was also called. And I wanted to return. But I think we have waited too long. In the meantime, it became a “world class destination with 4 million visitors per year” (visitsedona.com). Anyway, it is known for its colorful, surreal red rock formations that are ideal for hiking and biking. Furthermore, it seems to be a great hotspot for psychic energy. In addition, it has also become an art community.

My husband and I came primarily here for hiking. And it is really great for that with more than 200 trails and over 400 miles in the area (visitsedona.com). However, go better in spring or fall if you wish to do so. We were here in early summer – when it is a bit too hot for exercising outdoors – , but at least the trails were not so crowded at that time.

Staying & dining in style in Sedona

Sedona turned out being a hard patch as to staying in style. We already knew the “star establishment”

in town from our earlier stay but did not want to return (see my hotel review). The other one “in this league” is far away from the town center and does not really get great reviews. So, we settled for one that was a bit more “low key”, the newly opened (October 2021) The Wilde Resort & Spa

(the former Sedona Rouge Resort & Spa). While we liked our spacious room (Grove Signature) with a generous bathroom and the beautifully landscaped garden, we found the ambiance a bit “staid” (staff at reception and restaurant).

When it comes to dining in style in Sedona, you have quite a choice. You have to know that there is no Michelin Guide for Arizona (in contrast to California), so I had to depend on recommendations from Eater Travel (eater.com). We experienced a good mix of more casual dining-spots (Elote Café,

modern Mexican cuisine [Book well in advance!]; The Hudson,

modern American cuisine) and more formal ones (Dahl & Di Luca Ristorante Italiano,

Mariposa Latin Inspired Grill).

In terms of food, setting and views, I liked Mariposa Latin Inspired Grill best (but it has its price). As to coolness and views, I was fond of The Hudson.

As we had a longer stay in Sedona, I have also suggestions for cafés and ice-cream shops. If you are into healthy food, Local Juicery

is a must. In case you have a sweet tooth, then do not miss Layla’s Bakery.

And if you love ice-cream, I adored the one at PussyCat Gelato.

5. Scottsdale/Phoenix

General/sights

Before returning to the Californian Coast my husband and I wanted to one more stop in Arizona. After long wavering between Tucson and Scottsdale, we chose the latter, particularly due to its better offerings for staying and dining in style.

We have been here already, end of the 80s, and we knew that we were in for the hottest time of the year. So, we wanted to take it slow here. That meant one activity rather early in the day – Taliesin West,

Frank Lloyd’s winter home -, then spending the afternoon around the pool in the shade. A short look around Scottsdale’s old town

was on our agenda before dinner. A great thing to do here is also the Desert Botanical Garden, what we did on our previous stay.

Staying & dining in style in Scottsdale

For our two-day stay in Scottsdale, we had decided on a four-star property, Mountain Shadows.

This because we could not entirely warm to any of the fancier hotels in town – which are plentiful. We liked the cool and relaxed vibe of this newly rebuilt accommodation (in 2017). Above all, the spacious pool area was a great spot to hang out and to have a drink.

When it comes to dining in style, we had the most fabulous dinner of our USA southwest trip here in Scottsdale. And this was at ShinBay

in the old town. The chef, Shinji Kurita, together with his sous-chef Suzuki, offered a true epicurean experience. We were simply blown away by his creations, which were traditional Japanese yet with a twist. While it certainly was no bargain (225$ per person without beverages), it was one of the best Japanese meals we ever had, and we have had our share on our three-week Japan journey!

In addition, we had dinner at our hotel, at Hearth ’61,

which showed a sound performance. And there is also a branch of PussyCat Gelato

in old town Scottsdale, the ice-cream shop that I had discovered in Sedona.

6. San Diego

General/sights

As I have already written a post about this city in the past, there will be no more info about it. One exception: my husband and I were aghast to be confronted with San Diego’s homeless problem in downtown, where we resided (see below). I will not go into details (if you should be interested, google it; there is much to find about it). But if the city does not find a solution for this problem, the tourist industry will suffer.

In terms of activities, we walked to Little Italy

(from the Gaslamp Quarter), which has a vibrant restaurant and bar scene and back along San Diego’s bayfront. En route we made a stop at the USS Midway Museum,

the longest-serving aircraft carrier in the 20th century, which was an interesting thing to do. The same is true as to our short trip to Cabrillo National Monument.

Staying & dining in style in San Diego

As mentioned, we stayed this time in downtown San Diego in the heart of the historic Gaslamp Quarter. While this area has its charm, it unfortunately is affected by a big homeless problem (see above). We stayed at the luxurious Pendry San Diego

and liked our stay here (nice enough room, friendly and helpful staff, good breakfast). It is a fairly new hotel (opened in 2017) that masterfully blends modernity with tradition. Rooms are all the same size (suites are different) but vary as to view and floor. Go for one on a higher floor (street noise). What irritated me a bit on the room, was the disproportioned wet area (tiny sink – oversized shower). But otherwise, it was fine!

As to dining, we went to two Michelin listed restaurants. My favorite was Callie,

a cool, laid-back eatery with Mediterranean/Middle Eastern food. My recommendation is to order the tasting menu (70$) plus wine pairing (40$), which allows you to sample a bit from everything. We also dined at Animae,

which did not meet all our (high) expectations. Whereas it convinced with its looks and its food quality, the ambiance was not sophisticated and the service spotty.

If you are an ice-cream lover, here is a great place to go: Gelato Love

(RoVino The Foodery in East Village). You get here delicious, lower-calorie ice-cream. We were so fond of it that we even visited their home base in Carlsbad (Village Faire Shopping Center) on our way north!

7. Dana Point/Laguna Beach (Orange County, south of Los Angeles)

General/sights

We have been to Dana Point respective Laguna Beach

many times in the past, but we have never experienced it that crowded. More than once we got stuck in the traffic, something that has never happened to us here before. It seems that this lovely seaside town, located south of Los Angeles, has found lots of other fans! And this does not come as a surprise, in view of its beautiful coast with sandy beaches, tide pools, ocean bluffs and sea caves. For more information on Laguna Beach and the Greater Los Angeles area, check out my earlier post.

On our recent stay, my husband and I spent our time here walking/hiking Dana Point

(info about parks and trails). This was not only rewarding but allowed us to get away from the crowds in many cases too!

Staying & dining in style in Dana Point/Laguna Beach

I already let you know in my previous post that we decided against staying at a resort in Dana Point

where we had been twice in the past. And this because we considered its pricing as excessive. So, we had to find an alternative, which turned out to be no easy thing. Finally, without being totally convinced, we chose the signature room, the Luxury Tower Guestroom,

at Blue Lantern Inn

in Dana Point. While the room was great – with exception of the bed, which was way too bouncy for us – , we felt like being in the wrong place. Do not get me wrong, the hotel’s setting – overlooking the Pacific –  is stunning. Also the breakfast was surprisingly good, in view of not being served. But overall, the hotel was too “midscale” for us.

With regard of dining-spots, we went to a long time favorite of us, 230 Forest Avenue

in Laguna Beach. This casual, vibrant eatery still knows to persuade with well-made Californian cuisine with a twist, and this after having been continuously operated since 1995!

Furthermore, we dined at two Michelin listed restaurants which were new to us. On the one hand, we had an excellent meal at Marché Moderne

in Newport Beach, a contemporary French venue in a mall. Not only was the food divine, but it is also an elegant, tastefully furnished place. On the other hand, we had a fine dinner at an Italian restaurant, Oliver’s Osteria.

While we liked the authentic cuisine and the pleasant service, it was a bit hectic on our visit (there was a big tent in front of the eatery where they also hosted guests – as all the other nearby spots).

And once again, a recommendation for tasty ice-cream! And this is a shop where we have been several times already, Gelato Paradiso.

It was founded back in 1999!

Date of stay: July 2022

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Wondering where to go in the southwestern United States not only for sights but also for travel in style? And this without breaking the bank? My husband and I tried to do so and succeeded in many cases. But – as you may have guessed from the headline – it is no easy thing, due to increased prices or for lack of suitable establishments. Travel in style – think of staying at luxury hotels and dining at (Michelin) fine dining restaurants – has become increasingly expensive on the US west coast recently. And the offer of upscale spots for staying and dining in style is scarce in some places. As if that were not enough, it seems that overtourism has also reached the area. Notwithstanding that, we managed to compile an American southwest itinerary and embarked on our 9th (!) journey in the area. This time we flew into Los Angeles, then went east towards Arizona before returning to California’s coast.

Before going into the details of our voyage, I would like to address some related topics shortly. After a very brief look at our US west coast travel history there will be some lines to the current price level in the luxury hotel segment. This will be followed by some considerations on itineraries in the area – also as a result of grown national park tourism.

Our west coast adventures to date

I have just mentioned it, my husband and I are great fans of the US west coast. And so we have just had our 9th stay here! Our first one was more than 30 years ago, and oh my God, so much has changed since then. But I do not want to bore you with “everything was better in the past” stories. The last time we were here was in 2017, flying into San Francisco.

And I took this trip as an opportunity to suggest a Californian trip in five stops – find here all my posts about it.

Whereas we travelled the northern part of this US state at the time – starting in Mendocino

and going south to Los Angeles, including a side trip to Palm Springs – ,

we concentrated on California’s south coast plus Las Vegas

and Arizona

on our recent journey. But both times we ended our vacations in Orange County (south of Los Angeles).

And so I am able to compare the price level at a high-end hotel in the region, 2022 versus 2017. So much can be said, rates have been skyrocketing since then. More in the section to follow.

Increased price level in upscale hotels in the southwest USA

Maybe you have experienced it yourself, room rates at luxury hotels in popular destinations have increased lately. It seems that especially beachy vacation spots

are in huge demand. And this is no wonder as in the last two years leisure travel was often not possible. So, travelers are more than ready to spend money for their much needed and well deserved vacations. A phenomenon that is called “revenge travel” nowadays.

In addition to a strong demand, the hotel industry faces new issues. On the one hand, it suffers from labor shortages. This often results in staff reductions. On the other hand, costs for everything are skyrocketing. Not only materials are scarce but there are procurement delays too. The reasons for this are plentiful. First, there were delivery problems because of the pandemic, followed by similar issues due to the war in the Ukraine. A rising inflation was the result. This constellation brings along not only service cuts but also sky-high rates. Overall, you pay more for a room and end up with a worse service.

My personal experiences in terms of overcharging and under delivering at hotels

When planning our southwest USA journey, my husband and I were astonished to see how room rates for high-end hotels have risen since our 2017 stay. One example: At the time (end of October 2017), we paid 749$ per night (breakfast included, AAA Package) for an Ocean View Room at the Ritz-Carlton in Dana Point (Orange County).

For a stay at the beginning of July 2022, the same room would have cost 1,850$ (without breakfast)! And this without the accommodation being updated or so (it was renovated shortly before our 2017 stay). As we do not pay such an excessive price for a nice yet not so special room, we did not go for it.

At other places, we experienced a number of service cuts. There were hotels – we had booked a two-night stay at each – , where they had following room cleaning schedules. In one case, we were told that there would be no cleaning at all. At another lodging, they only clean the rooms every third day. And in another one, rooms were only done upon request.

While this did not pose a serious problem for us, we considered such a regimen as unusual. And this in particular in view of the increased room rates, where you would not expect sub-par service.

Before coming to our actual itinerary, here a few related things you better give some thoughts to when planning to travel America’s southwest. These concern general considerations – where to start, which route to take etc – but also the mentioned overtourism in the area.

Considerations on itineraries in the southwest USA – generally & in view of overtourism

Route considerations trough America’s southwest

As my husband and I have travelled America’s southwest extensively over the years (or better the decades), we have tried out various variations. Most times, we began our trips from either Los Angeles

or San Francisco,

as we are international travelers. However, this is not always the ideal starting point, depending on what you want to do. In some cases, it might be better to fly into Denver, as we did once.

Let us take the example of starting and ending in Los Angeles and heading east in between, as we did on our most recent vacation. You have to know that there is some kind of “gap” between the coast and the “touristic” inland. Here “in-between” you do not find many sights and no places for staying and dining in style. This leaves you as discerning traveler with two options. You can either go via Las Vegas –

what we did – , or via Palm Springs –

where we were on our last trip. For your way back to the coast, you take the one you have not done yet. As alternative – especially if you want to include Phoenix/Scottsdale or Tucson into your travel plans, there is also the route to San Diego –

as we opted for on our recent journey.

Overtourism in southwestern USA

Now to one more fact what makes traveling in the area more complicated and unpleasant too, the overtourism. As you certainly are aware of, there is a post-pandemic boom in nature respectively national park tourism.

While this kind of tourist activity has grown steadily for decades, it has accelerated since the 2010s (Bloomberg). And sadly, most national parks

and other nature attractions in the American southwest are crowded at many times of the year. As a consequence, it may be better to visit them in the shoulder respectively off-seasons or to switch to “second-rate” sights. In our case, we went this year end of June/beginning of July, and in Page we chose the Waterhole Canyon

over the Antelope Canyon.

But enough complaining, I come now to the actual topic, our American southwest itinerary.

Our California-Nevada-Arizona 16-day itinerary in style

Definitive route

Considering that we have been in the area many times before, we were not eager to do the same things all over again. And of course, we wanted to avoid revisiting a place that is now crowded and was not on a previous stay! We had not been to Page yet (Horseshoe Bend

and Antelope Canyon) and wanted to explore Sedona in greater details – we got to know and love it in 2017 on a (too) short stay. So, these were the two fixed inland points. We also thought about going to Tucson but dropped it because we could not warm to its vibe (and lodging offerings).

Hence, we started in the South Bay of Los Angeles (Hermosa Beach),

heading east towards Page

in Arizona’s far north – with a stopover in Las Vegas –

before coming to Sedona.

Here we spent a large part of our vacations, then drove – via Scottsdale –

back to the Californian coast. We “hit” it in San Diego

and made one more stop in California, and this in Orange County (Dana Point),

before returning to Switzerland.

Our travel style

As to our travel style, one can say that we have expensive tastes in terms of staying

and dining.

We are ready to pay high prices for hotels but only if we consider them worth the expense. And this was definitely not always the case when checking out lodging for our American southwest trip. As outlined before, we wanted to stay at a particular accommodation again that we knew from two earlier visits but found it way too expensive this time. And this very establishment was no exception! So, we had to “downgrade” every now and then.

Find in the following detailed information on our California-Nevada-Arizona itinerary.

My Google Map (itinerary) of our southwest USA journey in style

My Google Maple (itinerary) includes all the hotels we stayed and the restaurants we dined on our trip through the American southwest. And they come complete with short descriptions and pictures. You find the same as to cafés or ice-cream shop we went to on our journey and considered as good. Finally, I listed all the activities we did when traveling North America’s “Wild West”.

While we usually strive for the best in terms of hotels and restaurants – without overspending – , we faced some problems in achieving this. These were either due to excessive rates – as mentioned – but also because of the lack of suitable establishments. Whereas the offer of upscale hotels is plentiful on the Californian coast, this is not always the case when traveling inland.

I will not leave my Google Map uncommented. There is the one or other thing to tell you concerning each stop. You will find some details to all the seven places we visited on our journey through America’s southwest soon on my blog!

Date of visit: July 2022

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San Diego features

At the time, it was decided to shift the center of San Diego to this waterfront location, nowadays better known as Gaslamp Quarter in Downtown. Its development started in the 1860s as New Town and eclipsed Old Town as the city’s core. It includes 94 historic buildings of which many were built in the Victorian Era. After a period of urban decay, this neighborhood underwent some renewal works and was restored to its former glory. Walking around in the area and gazing at some houses is an interesting thing to do, such as at the Cole Block Building,

or the Ingle Building.

Today, this Bayfront location is also the site of entertainment and night life venues.

A place not to be missed in Dan Diego is Balboa Park, an urban cultural park, which is home to not only green areas but also museums, theatres, art galleries and the San Diego Zoo. It features 16 unique gardens

including the beautiful Japanese Friendship Garden.

A nice place to spend some time is Seaport Village, a waterfront shopping and dining complex adjacent to the San Diego Bay in Downtown.

 From here you can catch a glimpse of the naval fleet stationed here in San Diego.

A beautiful spot to enjoy the beach in San Diego is La Jolla, a community in the north of San Diego occupying quite a long stretch of curving coastline. A good starting point is La Jolla Cove

with a little beach for sunbathing and swimming. There is also a walkway along the coast towards Children’s Pool offering great opportunities for viewing the sea and wildlife such as the La Jolla seal.

Which location & hotel to choose in San Diego

but only because of one luxury hotel, the Tower23.

This sleek, minimalist place is a great choice when being into modern lodging. My husband and I are such travelers and opted for it on our last visit to San Diego. Unfortunately, the area cannot quite keep up with the hotel, as this neighborhood is known for being one of the main centers of nightlife in town, and this especially for a younger crowd. Having said this, a nice thing to do is strolling along the Ocean Front Walk, running about 3.2 miles (5 kilometers) along the beach to the Mission Bay, which is almost always very busy.

A community, which pleases travelers in style, is the neighboring la Jolla, already mentioned in the previous section. It is a beautiful seaside village popular as domicile for affluent people. Hotels can be found here, although none catering for expensive taste and being on the beach at the same time.

Recommended restaurants in the Pacific Beach area

Another recommended dining-spot is The Fishery, located a few blocks from the ocean in North Pacific Beach. This is the place to indulge in great seafood as it is not only a restaurant but there is also a warehouse with freshest fish behind it. The atmosphere is pleasant, and the chef knows how to prepare seafood in an interesting way.

A good place for breakfast and probably lunch as well (we only had breakfast here twice) is Isabel’s Cantina, which serves Latin-Asian fusion dishes in a very casual ambiance in some sort of a converted garage. Staff is easy-going yet welcoming, and there are also healthy options available.

Overall

Last date of stay: October 2013 (hotels and restaurants rechecked on TripAdvisor in 2018)

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Los Angeles is a place that is hard to grasp for a traveler. It is a virtual impossibility to leave this juggernaut of a city in no doubt that one has seen it! After 8 (!) visits to this city, beginning in the late 1980s, I did an attempt to list my personal Los Angeles highlights accumulated over the last years. I firmly believe that this city’s character can best be captured by staying not only in one spot, shall we say Santa Monica, but in different ones. And of course, one visit to this metropolis is not enough to get a feel for it.

Itinerary 2017

Distinctions

Los Angeles is known for many of its particularities. It is the entertainment capital of the world, it is supposed to have the perfect climate – mostly sunny and warm, with low humidity and little rain – , it is a cultural mecca with an abundance of museums and it has a diverse, multiethnic population (Hispanics are the majority here). But there is also a downside, which is connected with the above mentioned decentralized structure, the traffic, probably the problem number one in Los Angeles.

Bad traffic

Where to stay & eat and what to do

Laguna Beach

When staying in this seaside resort town south of Los Angeles (1h15min from Downtown LA), you get a feel how life is in South California is when being rich and beautiful. There are many good hotels and restaurants as well as parks where to walk (Heisler Park) and to hike (Crystal Cove State Park). If you want to do sightseeing in Los Angeles’ city center, this may not be your first choice (too far away).

The same as just said to Laguna Beach is true for this resort city in desert valley (1h45min from Downtown LA). Do not visit this place in summer if you want to do more than sunbathing because it is simply too hot for anything other. Here you find stylish hotels and great dining-spots as well. An interesting feature is also its midcentury-modern architecture (e.g. Palms Springs Rendezvous Hotel on my list). Palm Springs is also a hiking paradise. The North Lykken Trail (see map) is a fine example with wonderful views and varied terrain.

Santa Monica

Combinations

My last post in this series about a Californian trip along the coast from north to south will be about San Diego. Of all major cities visited in California, this is the one that I know least about. “Only” 3 of my 8 Californian trips went here, but I think enough to get a feeling for it.

Last date of stay: November 2017

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On our trip along the Californian Coast from north to south my husband and I left northern California (Mendocino, San Francisco hotels/restaurants/activities) behind us and reached Cambria, a picturesque village in Central California, situated midway between San Francisco & Los Angeles along California State Route 1 (Highway 1).

Coastal drive from San Francisco to Cambria

Cambria features

Where to stay

both belonging to the Cambria Inns Collections and located directly on the stunning Moonstone Beach. We went for the latter as their Double Queen Full Oceanview Room met our needs best. The room had been recently updated and was solid although unexceptional. 

We felt comfortable but it was far from being an upscale accommodation. If you seek real high end lodging, then there are two establishments in the Big Sur Area but – frankly speaking – I do not consider them as places offering value for money and therefore I cannot recommend them without reservation.

Where to eat

What to do

Outlook

The subject of my next post will be Los Angeles and its surroundings. I will point out several places in and near this city where to stay and eat and things to do when appreciating the finer things in life and being into walking around a lot.

Date of stay: October 2017

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After giving tips where to stay and where to eat as travelers in San Francisco appreciating the finer things in life, there is no way around mentioning some worthwhile things to do. I am sure that you are able to name at least a few of the well-known landmarks of the city but it does not harm to recall some of them. In addition, I would like to focus on how to experience them by walking as much as possible. As mentioned in my first post about California – itinerary, first stop Mendocino – there is no better way to truly taste a place than by exploring it by foot.

Day 1

Golden Gate Bridge to Aquatic Park: views of bridge & skyline (2 h) & Ghirardelli Square – Lombard Street – Fisherman’s Wharf (2 – 3 h)

and you use the underpass to get to the Golden Gate Bridge Welcome Center (2). Do not linger here – there are tons of tourists –, but take a trail towards the water

and go to the Torpedo Wharf (3), which today is used as a fishing pier.

Continue along the bay towards east, pass Crissy Field (4), a former military airfield, and enjoy the stunning scenery, the bridge on one side, the approaching city on the other one. When you reach the Aquatic Park (5),

you are at the end of the first tour.

The second tour covers the northern waterfront, which is one of the busiest tourist areas in San Francisco, with a side trip to Lombard Street.

Ghirardelli Square (6) is right above the Aquatic Park. It is originally home of the first Ghirardelli Chocolate Factory and now a place full of shops and restaurants. After having explored this site, your next stop is the Lombard Street (7) between Hyde and Leavenworth.

This section is considered the “crookedest street in the world” with 8 switchbacks in one long block (about 15 minutes to walk from Ghirardelli Square). Then head back to the waterfront and stroll through Fisherman’s Wharf (8) with its souvenir shops, seafood restaurants, colony of sea lions and historic ships to tour. I have to admit it is not my favorite place in town, but you probably have to see it … Once you have reached Pier 39 (9),

the tour has found its end.

 

Day 2

Alcatraz (3h) & Chinatown – Financial District – Union Square – South of Market (Museums) (2 – 3 h)

 

The starting point is not far away from where the tour ended on the day before, at Pier 33 (1) where the first ferry for the Alcatraz Island (2)

leaves at 9:00 AM. As usual it is very much recommended to buy tickets in advance. Included in the ticket price is the award-winning cellhouse audio tour, where former Alcatraz inmates and correctional officers report on their life on this island. Do not miss it, it is really great! A much-welcomed side effect of this trip is also the view you can enjoy of San Francisco’s skyline.

Back on the mainland, you may explore the northeast of this city a bit closer. In a walk of about 30 minutes you can reach Chinatown (3), the oldest one in North America and the largest one outside of Asia.

Then head to the nearby Financial District and check out “The Wall Street of the West Coast” with the city’s tallest building, the Transamerica Pyramid (4).

Next stop is San Francisco’s most visited neighborhood, Union Square (5), a shopping paradise.

Finish your tour by visiting one or more of the museums in the South of Market, e.g. San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (6),Yerba Buena Center for the Arts (7) and/or the Contemporary Jewish Museum (8).

Day 3

Marina District – Pacific Heights – Painted Ladies – Golden Gate Park (4 – 5 h)

 

This day is devoted to the northern and central northern part inclusive the eastern half of the Golden Gate Park.

 

Start your walk in one of the city’s nicest areas, the Marina District, more precisely at the Palace of Fine Art (1),

one of San Francisco’s most monumental buildings with a beautiful lagoon. Head south along the Presidio, a former military base that is now a park. When reaching Chestnut Street (2) go to the section between Divisadero and Fillmore Street and check out the eclectic mix of shops, fun bars and hip restaurants.

Back at the Presidio head further south until you come to the Lyon Street Stairs (3).

These exceptionally steep and beautifully landscaped stairs bring you to Pacific Heights with its striking mansions. Explore the area, which was named the United States’ most expensive neighborhood, by walking along Pacific Avenue in western direction, passing the hotel we stayed at, Hotel Drisco (4) until Fillmore Street (5). Here most of the area’s boutiques and restaurants can be found, follow it further south. After about 30 minutes you reach one of San Francisco’s most popular sights, the Painted Ladies (6).

This “Postcard Row” of Victorian houses is directly located across from Alamo Square park.

Another half hour’s walk via Hayes Street (7) brings you to the Golden Gate Park, where the de Young Museum (8) (art & observation tower),

the Japanese Tea Garden (9) (oldest public Japanese Garden in the U.S.) and the Stow Lake (10) (man-made lake with an island, pedal boats & Chinese pavilion) are worthwhile places to visit.

 

Day 4

Hike along California Coastal Trail Sutro Baths – Golden Gate Bridge (2 h) & Marin Headlands (1 – 4 hours)

 

This hike along California Coastal Trail is a great activity for nature lovers as well as fans of the Golden Gate Bridge (GGB) as you can view this impressive landmark from different angles and distances while approaching. As far as the Marin Headlands is concerned, one of the Bay Area’s most popular hiking destinations just across the Golden Gate Bridge, I only went to Battery Spencer outlook, from which you have a jaw dropping vista of the Golden Gate Bridge.

 

The starting point for this section of the California Coastal Trails runs from the Cliff House (1), a restaurant at Lands End. A few minutes later you pass the Sutro Baths (2)

a former swimming pool complex that burned down in 1966 and is now in ruins. From here the Lands End Trail winds along the coastline. Every now and then, you get glimpses of the GGB. There is a path down to Lands End Point (3), which is a great spot to view the GGB.

After leaving Lands End, San Francisco’s wildest, rockiest corner, you reach the Sea Cliff neighborhood. Go down to China Beach (4) to have another splendid view of the GGB

and to find the closest trail by the sea to resume your hike.

Shortly afterwards, you arrive at the Presidio and it is already time for another spectacular view of the GGB, now from Baker Beach (5).

Continue your way towards the bridge along Marshall’s Beach until you come nearer and nearer to it and there is an increasing number of people around. At this point, you are probably close the Golden Gate Overlook (6), the end of this hike. Take a last picture of the GGB and decide whether to visit the Marin Headlands (7) as proposed or to do it some other time.

As mentioned above, I only visited Battery Spencer outlook (8),

in fact on another day and by car, I would not know whether this other amazing viewing point of GGB can be reached by foot from the Golden Gate Overlook. Does anybody know whether this is possible?

My next post will be about Cambria, a pretty town midway between San Francisco and Los Angeles. As usual, I will report on where to stay and eat and what do do when traveling in style.

Did you try out one or more of the tours I proposed? If this is the case, do you anything to add?

Last date of stay: October 2017

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In my last post about San Francisco I informed about 3 recommended hotels to stay when traveling in style and choosing a location away from the Union Square district for reasons explained there. Now, I want to advise on restaurants to go when visiting this city and putting emphasis on gourmet experiences. For a quick overview, here is a Google Map where all recommendations are listed.

Categorization

I have classified the restaurants as follows:

• Cuisine: American, Italian, seafood, breakfast etc.
• Style: classic or modern
• Price: affordable, midscale or upscale

List of recommended restaurants (arranged alphabetically)

1. Boulevard: American, classic, upscale

2. Fresca Pacific Heights: Peruvian, modern, midscale

3. Gary Danko: American, classic, upscale

4. Hollywood Café: Breakfast, modern, affordable

5. Kokkari Estitorio: Greek, modern, upscale

7. Scoma’s of Sausalito: Seafood, classic, upscale

8. Octavia: American, modern, upscale

Outlook

After having covered hotels and restaurants in San Francisco for travelers appreciating the finer things in life also when being on vacation, I will go into some things to do in the area. As outlined in my first post of this series – starting in Mendocino in Northern California and going all the way along the coast until San Diego – there will be a focus on activities involving walking.

Date of visits: October 2017 (Fresca, Seven Hills, Sccoma’s of Sausalito, Octavia / July 2013, rechecked on Tripadvisor 2017 (Boulevard, Gary Danko, Hollywood Café, Kokkari Estitiorio)

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San Francisco is by no doubt one of the most scenic cities in the west if not the United States! It is big when it comes to its offerings – think of its hilly terrain, liberal views, diverse architecture styles, beautiful landmarks and of course its unique climate. It is also nick-named Fog City and I can confirm this from previous visits. I had read that is very seldom warmer than 73 degrees Fahrenheit in this city, but when my husband and I visited it this time end of October for the 4^th time we experienced 89 degrees Fahrenheit on one day! And the sun shone all the time …

Really big is not quite the accurate term for this city, it is only located on a 7 x 7 mile (11 x 11 km) tip of a peninsula between the San Francisco Bay and the ocean. Because of its size, it is very walkable, apart from its steep rolling hills. This fact can make it difficult for tourists, but fortunately you can always call an Uber rider when it gets too tough nowadays …

For information about the whole itinerary along the Californian coast have a look at my last post where I gave an overview of the complete route. There you will also find tips where to stay and eat as a discerning traveler and what to do in Mendocino.

Before I come to the subject of which location and hotel to choose as a demanding traveler in San Francisco and surroundings, a couple of sentences to the trip from Mendocino to the City by the Bay.

Route between Mendocino and San Francisco

The drive along the Pacific Coast Highway (CA-1) is longer (5 to 6 hours) than the alternative one along CA-128 and US-101 (3 to 4 hours) and involves a lot of windy roads. That being said it is worthwhile doing on a sunny and clear day as the locations and views are majestic at almost every turn. The most beautiful section is probably the one between Jenner and Salmon Creek where you can marvel at a wonderful, untamed coastline with turn outs and beaches every few miles.

Which location & hotel to choose in San Francisco

It is not an easy matter to choose the perfect location for a hotel in San Francisco. There are more things to consider here than just the normal ones as easy access to public transportation or the proximity to restaurants and sights.

As I mentioned above, this city is well known for its liberal views. This shows also how they deal with disadvantaged people such as ones being homeless and/or addicted to drugs. I am aware that this is a delicate issue and not the typical topic of a travel blog but when traveling I am not inclined to be confronted with misery – think of homeless camps and open drug use – all the time, especially not in a rich country as the United States. In some areas of San Francisco underprivileged people are ubiquitous and as I understand this development has increased recently. What I want to emphasize is that you have to choose your hotel location with care as the area where most upscale accommodations can be found in San Francisco is near one to avoid. I speak of Union Square district, which is a popular destination with many posh hotels and high end shops. Not far away, there is the city’s worst neighborhood, the Tenderloin, where you are as close to an open-air drug market as you can get. And of course, you might have some unpleasant encounters also in the bordering Union Square area. To cut a long story short, consider this issue when you want to stay here. Having said this, this area is great when it comes to being near of public transport and to a wide variety of restaurants right outside the door.

My husband and I decided to stay away from Union Square when being in town the last two times. You may be wondering about the alternatives and I can answer you that they are not plentiful, especially when it comes to luxury lodging. There are some establishments in Fisherman’s Wharfand one (!) in the Pacific Heights.

I have to admit that I am not a fan of the area around Fisherman’s Wharf. I consider it as too noisy, crowded and sleazy. Nonetheless, we went for a hotel here on our last trip but one that is at the edge of all this hustle and bustle, Argonaut Hotelnear historic Ghirardelli Square. While I had been a bit anxious about the location before our stay, it turned out to be a good choice. Not only is it close to public transportation, many sights and a wide range of restaurant options but it is also fairly quiet, at least in the evening.

1. Argonaut Hotel: Fisherman’s Wharf/size: medium-large/hotel standard: I give it 4/5

The Argonaut Hotel (now a Noble House Hotel, formerly a Kimpton Hotel when I stayed here) is housed in a historic warehouse, which is all-brick and over a century old. It is conveniently located to many attractions and offers beautiful views across the San Francisco Bay. The rather large hotel (252 rooms) stands out due to its nautically themed design. As we traveled with our son we went for the Argonaut Suite with a panoramic view of the bay and Alcatraz Island as well as a separate living room. We enjoyed our stay here although it does not offer the ultimate luxury, see also my review.

This time we opted for a hotel in the posh residential neighborhood of Pacific Heights, Hotel Drisco. Most probably it is the only hotel in this area featuring some of the nicest homes in San Francisco. Staying here gives you the feel of a local! Disadvantages involve the location on the top of a hill (you always have to walk upwards when returning to the hotel) and the lack of public transportation infrastructure nearby. I would recommend that you only stay here when you love walking and are not a first-timer to this city.

2. Hotel Drisco: Pacific Heights/size: small-medium/hotel standard: I give it 4 ½/5

The Drisco was our home away from home on our recent trip. My husband and I were warmly welcomed and immediately felt at ease here. It is an elegant 1903 Edwardian hotel with 48 rooms, which was renovated extensively in the first half of 2017. The hotel presents itself now as contemporarily decorated, sophisticated retreat. It boosts a free gourmet continental breakfast, evening wine and hors d’oeuvres as well as a complimentary car parking (street parking, cars are moved by the staff due to parking restrictions).

We chose a City View Suite as we wanted to have more space at our disposal. The room is immaculately furnished with a nice living room, a pleasant bedroom with an extremely comfortable bed as well as a lovely bathroom with heated floor and spacious walk-in shower. I honestly could not ask for more and would return in a heartbeat!

Another possibility to experience the City by the Bay is a stay across the Golden Gate Strait in Sausalito, which can be reached either by ferry in a 30 minutes ride or by crossing the Golden Gate Bridge by car. This may be especially suitable for travelers who prefer the quieter pace of city life in this bayside town.

On our recent trip, we decided to stay at The Inn Above Tide out of the few available hotels because it is only a few steps from the ferry terminal and directly on the water with great views of the bay, Alcatraz and San Francisco’s skyline.

3. The Inn Above Tide: Sausalito/size: small/hotel standard: I give it 4/5

All 31 rooms have bay views that are hard to beat, but not every accommodation has a private deck. Our room, a King Deluxe Fireplace, has such a balcony, a fireplace, is rather small and adequately furnished although I would not give it the label “luxurious”.

Staff is friendly, there are a wine and cheese reception in the evening and a generous continental breakfast in the morning that is served in-room upon request, which is a good thing to do on a beautiful day because it allows you to experience a fantastic daybreak on your deck.

Outlook

After going into suitable locations for hotels and describing 3 high end accommodations in San Francisco in this post, my next steps will be to report on recommended restaurants visited on recent trips to this city and the neighboring town of Sausalito. Other travel tips for the area, mainly activities for travelers enjoying picturesque walking, will also be part of my blogging.

Have you been to luxury hotels in San Francisco, maybe in the Union Square district? What kind of experiences did you make?

Date of stays: October 2017 (Hotel Drisco & The Inn Above Tide) / July 2013, rechecked on TripAdvisor 2017 (Argonaut Hotel)

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For our 8^th (!) visit to the Golden State my husband and I decided to concentrate (once again) on the beautiful coastal area. This time we traveled from north to south. The starting point was Mendocino and the final destination was Laguna Beach south of Los Angeles in the Orange County. We included also a side trip to Palm Springs east of Los Angeles as we wanted to make sure that we have at least one stop where it is warm and sunny – we traveled end of October/beginning of November. As it turned out, this precautionary measure had been totally unnecessary, throughout our stay we had the perfect weather, but this cannot be taken for granted of course!

Anyway, I will also include some information from earlier trips as we have visited the area quite often in the past years. Therefore, I will point out several recommended places to stay around Los Angeles and also write a post about San Diego in such a way that the whole California coast is covered.

General

When it comes to activities, I will go into some things to do but without claiming to give a full overview. As we know the area rather well after so many visits, we usually did not do all the typical first-timer things but were a bit choosier. Nonetheless, there are always activities that we had missed somehow on earlier trips and had to catch up on them! And we are fond of walking and hiking, therefore you find quite a lot of tips where to do this throughout our trip.

Overview

Mendocino in Northern California

Where to stay

but it has well-appointed guest rooms that come with fireplaces and include cooked-to-order breakfasts and buffet dinners.

Where to eat

When staying at the Brewery Gulch you do not have to look for dinner restaurants as a so-called “light dinner buffet” inclusive local beer and wine is included in the rate. Every evening, a delicious meal using organic and local produce is prepared.

We found that it was more than sufficient for an evening meal and did not look further to have dinner elsewhere. I especially liked the tasteful heirloom tomatoes they served and the fantastic house made pastries.

What to do

The last activity I want to recommend is again located along Highway 128. This beautiful country road is also a wine road, numerous wineries can be found in the Anderson Valley, known especially for its Pinot Noir and sparkling wine production. My husband and I chose the Goldeneye Winery for a wine tasting because they not only have high class wines but also splendid gardens and vineyards to take a short stroll.

Outlook

Our trip took us farther south to San Francisco, the City by the Bay as it is also called, and some of its surroundings. We spent this time 3 days in the heart of this amazing city and one night in Sausalito, a town in the bay area across the Golden Gate Strait.

Date of stay: October/November 2017
MerkenMerken

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