Nothing against Santiago de Chile, but Valparaiso warmed my heart more. So, if you have two or three days to spare in your Chile itinerary – here is mine – in addition to Patagonia, the Atacama Desert and Santiago, you should go there. Valparaiso is known for its colorful architecture, its steep hills with views of the Pacific Ocean and streets filled with street art. It is much smaller than Santiago plus it is very walkable, despite being hilly. That is because of its picturesque old funiculars, which bring people up and down the hills. Find here a suggestion for a Valparaiso city tour in keywords (under activities on My Google Map). And of course, I also had made sure that my husband and I stayed and dined in style in this coastal city. Thus, I can inform you about probably the best luxury hotel and three good fine-dining restaurants in Valparaiso.

I begin with lodging before letting you know about where to go for dining in style in this picturesque Chilean city.

Staying in style at Hotel Casa Higueras

There is not much choice as to luxury hotels in Valparaiso. And from what I found out, Casa Higueras seems to be the best in town it this lodging segment. So, book ahead, there are only 20 rooms, and you want to have one with sea view! In addition, this hotel also hosts one of the best restaurants in Valparaiso.

Location

Casa Higueras is located on Cerro Alegre (Happy Hill), at the heart of one of the city’s prettiest neighborhoods. It is situated at the back of a dead-end street, so you have absolute quietude here. You have great views of the Pacific Ocean, in this maze of steep slopes and winding streets. And there is a huge numbers of hip stores, cafés and restaurants nearby. Also the main sights are within easy reach.

Ambiance/Staff

The hotel occupies an elegant 1920 converted town house, oozing charm and character. It is decorated with dark wood furniture, artworks and tropical plants. The five-level building nestles along the slope with the benefits of an added tiered garden. It is a lovely property indeed and well maintained too.

The front desk staff is gracious and more than ready to help you with information where to go for sightseeing – and where not. They have great tips how to walk and explore the beautiful Valparaiso (also see My Google Map under activities). Yet all the other staff member we met – at the restaurant in particular – were very friendly, hospitable and attentive.

Rooms

I mentioned it, 20 rooms are available. The ones with sea views and balconies are of course the most desirable ones (and also the more expensive ones). There are five accommodation categories: Traditional, Premium, Premium Superior, Superior and Deluxe. Rates start at 246 US$ in the low season.

My husband and I had a Superior Twin, and we were delighted by the generous layout of our room. There was a large seating area with a small balcony offering great views of the Pacific Ocean.

And the bathroom was oversized with lots of natural light.

As to the interior design, the accommodation married traditional and contemporary decor. I think it suited the character of the house just ideally.

Restaurant

The onsite restaurant, Maralegre, is one of Valparaiso’s best. On offer here is contemporary cuisine locally sourced with an emphasis on seafood. You get traditional Chile Creole cuisine here in combination with Italian and French cooking techniques. Maralegre is known to serve some of the best ceviches in town. The premises are really nice, there is a modernly furnished dining room with lots of wood.

The outdoor area is glorious, a terrace with fabulous views of Valparaiso’s multi-colored houses and the sea.

My husband and I had breakfast here on three mornings, which was good, and once we had a fabulous dinner. More details follow in the section dedicated to the food.

Other facilities

The hotel boasts a few small communal lounges, that are very elegant,

and a spa. In the terraced garden, you also find a delightful pool along with loungers and a Jacuzzi. Plus, there is a splendid rooftop terrace, where you have best views of the surroundings.

Overall Casa Higueras

There is no better lodging option for demanding travelers heading to Valparaiso than Casa Higueras. I would even go so far as to claim that this is the only hotel that deserves the term luxurious in this gorgeous coastal town. And the excellent in-house Restaurant Maralegre is an asset too. So, go here for best upscale hotel and foodie restaurant in Valparaiso. Plus, you are at the right spot here for enjoying the best the city has to offer in terms of shopping, going out and sightseeing.

Dining in style in Valparaiso

I can say in advance that Valparaiso is not exactly a gourmet paradise. And the situation is even worse if you are here from Sunday to Tuesday, as this was the case with my husband and me. In the end, we were able to find three fine dining restaurants which were convincing enough. I had also consulted the 50 Best Discovery list by the World’s 50 Best Restaurants. And they suggested two places, yet unfortunately one of them, La Caperucita y el Lobo, is only open in the evening from Thursday to Saturday. So, that was not for us. Fortunately, our hotel – probably your best choice in Valparaiso – has a recommended restaurant too. And it is open seven days a week. I start with our experience here.

1. Restaurant Maralegre at Casa Higueras Valparaiso

I already informed you about the setting above, so I come straight to food, overall assessment and pricing.

Maralegre – with chef Francisco Guzmán at the helm since since spring 2022 – is strong in seafood cooking, so we opted for such dishes. While not everything on the menu in terms of starters was available, we opted for Abalones with Avocado Emulsion

and Grilled Octopus with Sweet Potato Puree. For mains, we had Sea Fettuccine (fresh noodles with prawns, mussels & small clams) and the Catch of the Day (grilled local fish, broad beans puree & roasted vegetable). To end the meal, we ordered Milk Flan (reduction of milk & fruit sauce) and Chocolate Mousse with Oranges (soft bitter chocolate mousse with caramelized oranges & seasonal fruit ice cream).

The food was carefully prepared and tasted good, we liked what we got. It was more substance than style, but better so than the other way round. Portions were big enough, staff was friendly and informative. Price wise, it was completely fine, we paid around 100 US$ for the two of us (with a bottle of wine). I would recommend dining here if you are looking for a fine meal in a pleasant setting. But do not expect cutting edge gastronomy.

2. Restaurant Portofino Valparaiso

Some background & setting

Here you find no cutting edge fine dining either – as in the place before -, but they know their job at Portofino. The prime benefit of this restaurant that is a bit away from the city center towards Viña del Mar is its setting. Portofino is located at Cerro Esperanza – just above the beach of Caleta Portales  – with the most beautiful views of the Pacific Ocean.

The restaurant, under the management of owner Renato Airola and chef Giuliano Olmos since mid 2021, serves Italian cuisine. The chef puts value on using seasonal produce and sources locally whenever possible, yet he also imports some ingredients (flours, cheeses, oil and different spices) from Italy.

My husband and I were seated what I think was the main dining room – there must be others, the place has a capacity for 140 to 160 guests. From what I read, there also must be several terraces, some belonging to private rooms. The ambiance was pleasant, although I found the paper placemat menus and paper napkins not appropriate for such an establishment.

While not all the servers knew English, communication was no problem. And we received good service.

Food, overall & price

The menu is extensive, you can make your choice out of six sections: Antipasti (starters), Insalate (salads), Primi Piatti (first courses), Secondi di Terra (meat mains), Secondi di Mare (seafood mains) and Dolci (desserts).

My husband and I went for a salad with pears and Gorgonzola cheese as well as Burrata with a tomato variation, red pesto and olives as starters. And wow, both dishes could have passed as mains, they were huge. My advice is to share one starter for two persons. Then we ordered Salmon & Gnocchi

and Rigatoni Tricolore (made three ways). We also had the Foccaccia della Casa, the house bread. As dessert, we shared a Tiramisù with ice cream.

Food was well prepared, appealingly presented and tasty. Not only the size of the starters was generous, it was the case with all the dishes we had. All in all, we liked our experience at Restaurant Portofino, the meal was perfectly adequate. Yet they could improve some details just as providing a decent menu (not in the form of a placemat) and cloth napkins. With regard to pricing, it was good value (around 100 USS$ for two with a bottle of wine).

3. Restaurant La Concepción Valparaiso

Some background & setting

The dinner at Restaurant La Concepción was definitely our culinary highlight in Valparaiso. I mentioned above that there are two dining spots in Valparaiso at the 50 Best Discovery list by the World’s 50 Best Restaurants, and this is one of them.

Despite my trying hard I found not much background about this place. La Concepción’s building dates back to 1880, which has been refurbished over the years. And this apparently by using its own antique wood. The restaurant was opened in late 2005 by an American couple, Jude and Robert Gerrity. And Miguel Fuentes seems to the the manager here, but I could not find any information about the chef.

La Concepción’s setting is nice. The restaurant extends over two floors, the space on the ground floor is very limited. Yet there is a rather large garden terrace with prime views of the container ships far below in Valparaiso’s working port plus of Viña del Mar in the distance. And guests – lots of non-locals among them – seemingly like to eat out there, and this also in colder weather (they provide blankets).

Out waiter was polite but not very talkative.

Food, overall & price

The restaurant offers a wide-ranging menu with a special focus on fish and seafood. Yet you also find international dishes on it. As to starters (five of them were available), we opted for Ostiones la Casa (Chilean scallops), baked with wine and cheese, and they were very good! We had one dish to share, on advice of our server.

In terms of mains, you could choose between three beef or pasta dishes or go for seafood. And the latter is what we did. Out of the seven items on the menu, I had Camarón al Curry, a red curry with Ecuadorian shrimp. My husband decided on Tuna with Oyster Sauce. While my dish was immaculate, my husband’s tuna was a bit on the less tender side. Although the accompanying mote (corn) risotto was great. The same is true for the bread that they served!

For dessert there was quite a choice too (six of them). And they were predominantly of Western origin. We shared a peanut butter cheese cake chocolate brownie combination. It came with vanilla ice cream and was delicious – and also optically appealing.

On the whole, La Concepción knew to persuade with refined and well-prepared creations, and this in a pleasant casual setting. Yet there were also the one or other imperfections just as the tuna being not tender enough or the long wait for the dessert. Yet, I cannot imagine that you find a much better dining option in Valparaiso. And the pricing was alright too, around 100 USS$ for two with a bottle of wine.

Looking back & ahead on my Chile & Buenos Aires journey

That current post, going into best hotel and restaurants in Valparaiso, is my second to last one when it comes to my husband’s and my Chile and Buenos Aires trip. Next on my blog will be the one about Buenos Aires where I will do the same as here, going into one of the best hotels for demanding travelers and three restaurants for dining lovers.

So far I have reported on the same topic as to Santiago de Chile and our experience at three high-end hotels in Patagonia and the Atacama Desert. I started the whole with presenting a 20-day itinerary where My Google Map of the trip is in center. It includes all the luxury hotels we stayed, the foodie restaurants we ate and the activities we did. As to the latter, this section also comes with city tours in keywords for all the three cities we were (Santiago de Chile, Valparaiso and Buenos Aires). And of course, photos are there too ..

Date of stay: November 2023

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The Chile trip my husband and I did – here is the itinerary – took us also to its capital of Santiago. Of course it did, you cannot fly directly from the Atacama Desert to Patagonia, for example. So, we happened to stay here three times, twice in the city center, once at the airport. Never mind, although it was not love at first sight, we grew to like this city. It is laid out like a chessboard in a Spanish colonial style. However, only a few remains of the historical building structure remain. Find here a suggestion for a Santiago city tour in key words (under activities on My Google Map). When it comes to where to stay and dine in style in Santiago de Chile, I can advise on one of the best high-end hotels plus three great fine-dining restaurants, featured on the 50 Best Discovery list by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants.

I start with laying out where to opt for a hotel in Santiago de Chile best for exploring and dining options.

Where to stay in style in Santiago de Chile 

When heading to Santiago de Chile you have to decide whether you want to stay in the old town or in the new town. These two parts are separated by the Almeda Bernardo O’Higgins Avenue. It is named after the Chilean freedom fighter, who liberated the country from the Spanish. This avenue runs through almost the entire city from southwest to northeast. North from it is the old town, south from it the new town.

If you want to be near the main sights, I suggest that you opt for staying in the city’s old part, which is at the same time Santiago Downtown.

Lastarria neighborhood in Santiago’s old town

The best place to stay in Santiago’s old town is probably Barrio Lastarria. This rejuvenated historic neighborhood with cobblestone alleys and stately Belle Époque buildings has fast become one of the hippest areas in town. This is due to its wealth of museums, art centers, trendy shops and cool cafés. And it is also favorably located as to the historic Barrio Centro (Plaza de Armas) and the bohemian neighborhood of Bellavista.

The best luxury hotel in the vibrant Lastarria neighborhood is The Singular Santiago, belonging to the prestigious hotel collection of the Leading Hotels of the World. Before coming to how it is lodging here, some information on a possible alternative of staying in style in Santiago de Chile.

Trendy neighborhoods in Santiago’s new town

While Lastarria is the ideal base for sightseeing, most upscale restaurants are further away from downtown. You find them predominantly in the Las Condes District and also in the Vitacura one. Both are in the city’s northwest, maybe 15 to 30 minutes by car from the historic Barrio Centro.

This is also the place where most high-end hotels are. Think in this context of The Ritz-Carlton, W Santiago or Mandarin Oriental. Apart from upscale lodging and a thriving restaurant scene, you encounter here also some nightlife. A few theaters are located in “Sanhattan”, as this area is also called.

After going into our stay at one of the best luxury hotels in Santiago, the Lastarria hotel The Singular Santiago, I will let you know more about three great fine-dining restaurants in Santiago’s Las Condes and Vitacura Districts.

Staying in style at The Singular Hotel Santiago

I have mentioned The Singular Hotel already in another post about our Chile trip. And this was on the occasion of our Patagonian stay. Before opening their Santiago property in 2014, the owners have already established The Singular Patagonia in the Puerto Natales area.

Location

I already went into The Singular’s location above, Barrio Lastarria. This neighborhood, which is at The Singular’s doorstep, came back to life with the opening of the nearby Gabriela Mistral Cultural Center. And it did so after being the place to be in the first half of the 20th century. At this time, everything that had rank and name built here, adopting Europe’s architectural influences. Sadly, Lastarria became neglected later on when many families moved to more modern suburbs. Yet fortunately, the neighborhood’s infrastructure stayed whole, ready to be relived in the current time!

Ambiance/Staff

Although The Singular Santiago is a new hotel, it stands out from other such ones in town. It is for sure not comparable to the interchangeable chain accommodations in Santiago’s new town. Instead it is full of character, linked to the history and culture of Chile. It is designed in a neo-classical architectural style, as a tribute to its surroundings. With its dark front and two brickwork volumes it perfectly blends into the area.

As to The Singular’s interiors, it combines modernity with gone-by times. When entering the premises, you encounter a lobby/bar area that reminds you of a gentleman’s club from the Belle Époque. Dark brown armchairs, bronze salon tables and olive green sofas go hand in hand.

And the clubby ambiance extends to the ground-floor restaurant clad in checkerboard marble floors and dark-wood paneling.

The staff in the reception area, stylishly in dark suits, completes the scenario. And also their attitude fits. Service was excellent from start to finish on our stays, nothing was too much trouble. Of all the employees we encountered, the concierge, an Englishman, stood out as the most welcoming and engaging person. Yet all the others were up to the level too. And it was so nice to be remembered when returning two weeks after the first stay!

Rooms

You can make your choice out of 62 rooms in eight categories with rates starting at about 200 US$ in the low season (The Lastarria Room 25 sqm).

My husband and I went for The Singular Twin category. On our two stays, we had both times a room with the same layout however on different floors. While I found the accommodation good enough, it was not the thing I liked most at this hotel. It was spacious (36 sqm), yet a bit on the dark side. This because the room was long and narrow with only one window. Plus, it was located at the middle wing of the building, a bit set back.

Our The Singular Twin room was kept in warm, dark colors as the rest of the hotel. It came with a large table plus chairs and two sofa chairs with a small salon table. The luxurious bathroom, of which I was fond, was sizable and clad in marble. It was split into three areas with a large sink and tub in one, then a shower and a toilet each separated by individual glass doors.

Restaurants

For a hotel of this size there is quite a number of restaurants, four in total. The flagship spot is The Singular Restaurant with a French inspired locally sourced cuisine. Then there are two bars, on the one hand the Rooftop Bar

with a great view of the San Cristobal hill,

on the other hand Bar Merced on the ground floor. Finally, you find here also Café 294, a place for business or social meetings.

While my husband and I did not have dinner at The Singular Restaurant, we had breakfast here four times, which was good. We also had drinks at both bars on several occasions and enjoyed it. Among other things, we were served the best pisco sour of our whole Chile trip at the Rooftop Bar, which says a lot.

Other facilities

The Singular Santiago’s amenities include a spa with hydrotherapy room, sauna and steam bath plus a gym. And there is also a small rooftop pool.

Overall The Singular Santiago

We had two great stays here at this fabulous Lastarria property, with all the major sights close by. While The Singular Santiago is a new hotel, it pays tribute to the old-school glamour of this historic neighborhood, which was rejuvenated not long ago. The hotel is kept in a neo-classical architectural style to blend into its surroundings. Yet it is not afraid to be modern too. Rooms are affordable yet luxurious – especially the bathrooms – , and the two bars are a huge asset. The staff knows their job well, and they deliver an excellent service to their guests. My husband and I would return here in a heartbeat!

After these details to one of the best luxury hotels in Santiago, now the same as to the restaurant scene.

Dining in style in Santiago de Chile

I mentioned it above, the best restaurants in Santiago de Chile are not in the old town respectively in downtown, but in the new town. And you can find them in the Las Condes and Vitacura Districts in particular. This means that you cannot walk to them if you happen to stay in the old town. You even have to take into account a 30-minute drive to reach them as the traffic might be bad. While this is not exactly favorable, it is doable.

There is no Michelin Guide for Santiago de Chile to consult as to best gourmet spots in town. Alternatively, I relied on the 50 Best Discovery list by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants. As we did not want to eat 10 or more courses – we dined out every day of our 20-night vacation – , we did not consider for instance the famous Boragó. Instead we rather opted for establishments with a “three- to four-course approach.” By chance, we happened to eat at two restaurants with Nikkei cuisine (combination of Japanese and Peruvian elements). I start with those before coming to one specializing in fish and seafood.

1. Restaurant Karai by Mitsuharu Santiago de Chile

Some background & setting

Restaurant Karai by Mitsuharu is chef Mitsuharu “Micha” Tsumara’s outpost in town, opened in 2017. He is considered Latin America’s best chef according to The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, and this at Restaurant Maido in Lima. The Santiago branch is located at the fancy W Santiago Hotel in the Las Condes District. It is helmed by chef Gerson Céspedes.

If you wonder about the name of Karai, it has a double meaning. It means “together” in the Quetchua language and “spicy” in Japanese. Not only the W Santiago Hotel’s appearance is striking, but this is also true for Restaurant Karai by Mitsuharu. Zen decor awaits you here with lots of wood and natural light. And we were exceptionally warmly welcomed.

Food, overall & price

As to food offerings, there is an extensive menu of Sashimi, Tiraditos, Ceviche, Nigiris, Pa’picar-Otsumami, Los Fuertes and Desserts. Instead of going for the “experience” – the chef sends dishes of the day – , my husband and I chose ourselves (I had prepared for it beforehand).

We shared a Tiradito (de Orilla), catch of the day with yellow chili sauce, ponzu, cilantro, scallops tartar and shari cracker.

And the same is true for the classic Gyoza, stuffed with pork and shrimp with spicy ponzu sauce. Then we had individual mains, Kansai Yakimeshi from the Los Fuertes section for me, Japanese styled fried rice with seafood, salmon, shrimp omelette, ankake sauce and chilli oil. My husband had a dish from the Pa’picar-Otsumami part, Yakiniku de Cordero, a rack of lamb with yakiniku sauce, chimichurri nikkei, chickpea cream and olluco pickle. For dessert we shared Ice Tea and Yuzu, a pistachio and matcha tea biscuit with papaya sorbet and yuzu-chocolate cream.

And what can I say – I am no expert in Nikkei cuisine – , yet dining at Karai by Mitsuharu opened up new worlds of taste for us. What we got was creative, expertly done and nicely arranged. And everything was extremely delicious! We enjoyed the dinner very much. Also the serving sizes seemed adequate to us. Service was professional and did not interfere when it turned out that we already had made our choice on ordering. Price wise, the check (about 150 US$ with a bottle of wine) was reasonable, no complaints.

2. Restaurant Osaka Cocina Nikkei Santiago de Chile

Some background & setting

Restaurant Osaka Cocina Nikkei in Santiago de Chile is not a standalone restaurant, but part of a Lima based collection. The Osaka brand currently operates nine restaurants in seven South American cities and an outpost in Miami. And it has existed for over 20 years. As to its Santiago branch, it used to be at the W Santiago Hotel before it moved to its current location in Vitacura in 2017. The chef here is Ciro Watanabe.

The restaurant is situated in an affluent neighborhood – we almost felt like we were in a North American city. And there are other similar – upscale – dining spots nearby. Osaka Santiago encompasses two floors. There is a dining room plus an outdoor area on the ground floor. In the basement you find the sushi counter plus another dining room. The décor is feng shui-like with lots of wood. As to the staff, they needed some time to get going. Yet with time, the service became better.

Food, overall & price

The menu here is divided in two parts. On the one hand, there is the Nikkei Bar with Sashimi, classic Nigiris, Ceviches, Tiraditos, OSK Style Nigiris and Makimono. On the other hand, you find here also Peruvian Izakaya with Zensai and Tokusen dishes.

My husband and I shared first Tiradito Perú (white fish, Nikkei uchucuta, pickled onions, sweet potato)

and an Izakaya from the Zensai section. It was Chirashi Causa (yellow potato, salmon tataki, crab salad, ikura, acevichada sauce). Then we did the same for two items from the Izakaya Tokusen part. These were Shiromi Brasa (roasted white fish, almond chimichurri and Peruvian peppers) and Kuroi Ramen (charred seafood, ramen noodles, curry squid ink cream, cherry tomato, spicy mayo). We ended the meal with sharing an Amai Toast, which was a caramelized brioche with yuzu curd, cheese ice cream and miso butterscotch.

Again, we had the same feelings as at Restaurant Karai by Mitsuharu. Each dish provided plenty excitement to our tastebuds. Everything was skillfully crafted, refined and attractively served. Also the size of portions was good. Service became better the longer we were here. The ambiance was pleasant, although for me personally it was a bit too much on the dark side (we were seated near the window). As to the prices, we found them okay for what you get. Just as with its mentioned competitor, we paid around 150 US$ for the two of us (with a bottle of wine).

3. Restaurant Olam Santiago de Chile

Some background & setting

Olam ranks 68th on the extended Latin America’s 50 Restaurants 2023 list. It is the only one of the three mentioned Santiago restaurants that was voted into it. Sergio Barroso is at the helm at this dining spot on the second floor of the 45 By Director Hotel in the Las Condes District. The property has been open since 2019. Before, he was at Restaurant 040 in the nearby Providencia District. Originally from Madrid, Barroso worked with Ferran Adrìa at El Bulli and Denis Martin in Vevey/Switzerland.

The restaurant’s design is rather special, some may say a bit peculiar. The dining room is kept in high gloss white and poison green. Huge white columns are combined with green chairs featuring a net-like pattern. Another eye catcher are the curvaceous chandeliers. The whole thing appears quite futuristic. The staff was relaxed and composed throughout the evening.

Food, overall & price

The chef has an innovative take on fish and seafood. And the dishes are ideal for sharing, what my husband and I did. We ordered 5 savory and 2 sweet dishes.

The savory ones were the following: Tina and Miso (bonito tartare & rice with ginger, ponzu oil, miso mayonnaise & wasabi),

grilled wild green asparagus (in two cooking methods, tempura & grilled with chili-zumac mayonnaise foam), smoked wagyu tartare (in oak wood with lacquered Chinese bread, red curry teriyaki & sichimi togarashi), blue crab Txangurro with cognac & yuzu hollandaise (flamed crab stew in cognac, typical of the Basque Country, gratin with hollandaise) and ravioli of smoked trout from Patagonia (with white vermouth & mascarpone cream). The sweet ones consisted of: white chocolate, peanut praline and rose (creamy white chocolate, savarin sponge cake with peanut praline & pear granita) and roasted manchego cheese (manchego cake filled with blackberry jam & cassis liqueur cream).

And the food was superb! I very much liked the chef’s eclectic creations influenced by Asian, Western & South American cuisines. Each dish was well composed, with unexpected elements in each that made it a truly memorable dining experience. As to the ambiance, on arrival I found it a bit cold, but later on when the lamps were lit it became more pleasant. When it comes to pricing, I found the check (about 150 US$ for the two of us with a bottle of wine) reasonable enough. Said that, we did not choose one of the more expensive items on the menu, for instance the langoustines.

My mini-series about a Chile & Buenos Aires trip

I mentioned our Chile itinerary at the beginning, of course we visited not only Santiago but other places in Chile (plus Buenos Aires) too. If you should be interested, we went to Patagonia and the Atacama Desert where I go into the luxury hotels we stayed (and their onsite restaurants). And there will be more posts about our city stays in Valparaiso and Buenos Aires, comparable to this one about Santiago. It is always about best luxury hotels and fine-dining restaurants worth the money spent on at the respective places.

Date of stay: November 2023

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Chile is full of natural wonders, and the Atacama Desert, the driest on Earth, is one of them. In contrast to the country’s most popular natural highlight, South Patagonia with Torres del Paine National Park (my post), it is not so overflown by travelers. If you explore the area in an “anticyclical” way, you can avoid most daytrippers. This allows you to have the sights – think of bizarre rock formations, lagoons with flamingos or geysers, and this all against the backdrop of the Andes  – to yourself. And if look for the best luxury hotel in the Atacama Desert, there is no way around the Awasi Hotel.

First, I give you a short overview of upscale lodging in the Atacama Desert, and then go into much detail of staying at Awasi Atacama.

Overview luxury hotels in the Atacama Desert

The best place to enjoy the Atacama Desert is from San Pedro de Atacama, a desert oasis a one and a half-hour drive from Calama.

This small town looks like one from an old western with adobe buildings and dusty dirt streets. It is situated at 2,450 m (8,036 ft) above sea level. Here you have the choice between four high-end properties.

I start with the pioneer in terms of top end accommodation in the Atacama Desert, followed by more recent additions. All the lodging expect the Nayara Alto is only available on an all-inclusive basis.

1. Explora Atacama

Explora has set the standard for high-end lodging here since 1998. It is located on the outskirts of San Pedro with views of the “volcano land” on the horizon. There is usually a minimum stay here of three nights in the high season, which costs a little more than 2,000 US$ for two per night at the standard room (33 sqm, all-inclusive). As to the latter, it is comfortably enough yet not very luxurious, and there is no outdoor area. You find onsite 50 rooms. And excursions take place in small groups.

2. Awasi Atacama luxury hotel

The second provider in the luxury segment in the Atacama Desert – opened in early 2007 –  relies on another approach. Instead of views he offers a peaceful, intimate oasis in the interior of San Pedro. Each of the 12 traditional adobe huts, where the guest rooms are, is set away from the others. Already the entry-level accommodation offers much comfort and luxury (50 sqm). Every cottage comes with its own private guide. If you want to stay here you have to do so for at least three nights and have to spend a bit more than 2,000 US$ for two per night. Said that you have to be lucky to get one of the two Round Rooms. Otherwise, you have to opt for the more expensive option that is going to cost you a little more than 3,000 US$ for two per night (all-inclusive).

3. Tierra Atacama

The next luxury hotel on an all-inclusive basis followed a short time later, in early 2008. And it focuses as the Explora property on views. The accommodations are more numerous than at Awasi (32 units) yet fewer than at Explora. And the minimum stay in the high season is shorter than at its competitors (two nights). As to the location, it is just outside of San Pedro. And the rooms are quite luxurious in a minimalistic style and come with their own private terrace. To become a guest here you have to fork out a bit less than 2,000 US$ for two in the high season for the standard room (35 sqm). The explorations are carried out in small groups.

4. Nayara Alto Atacama

The fourth in this quartet has been on the market since late 2020, and this at an already existing hotel. It is slightly further away from San Pedro than the other high-end accommodations in the area. The Nayara Alto is set in a tranquil valley and boasts great views of the desert’s scenery. Its 42 rooms are spacious – even the standard room measures 50 sqm. They are traditionally furnished with modern amenities and have a private terrace. This “newbie” stands out from the competition because of the offered flexibility. There is no minimum stay and you can choose between several meal/activity plans. You can either opt for bed and breakfast only (905 US$), half board (1,165 US$), full board (1,425 US$), all-inclusive with shared explorations (1,580 US$) and with private guide (2,180 US$). All rates apply for the standard room in the high season for two (February 2024).

As you know by now, my husband and I went for Awasi Atacama where we stayed four nights. Here how it was.

Staying in style at luxury Hotel Awasi Atacama

Spoiler alert: Awasi Atacama was as good as my husband and I had hoped for. After all, it had cost us a fortune. Unfortunately, the two less expensive Round Rooms were already fully booked, so we had to take one of the Superior Round Suites.

While we were not completely convinced of Tierra’s performance at their Patagonia branch (see my post), luckily that was different at Awasi Atacama. Although I cannot give judgement on how Tierra Atacama is – as I have not been there – , I suppose it does not differ much from its sister hotel in Patagonia. But of course, I cannot know for sure …

The Awasi Atacama’s back story

Ana Sainz de Vicuña Bemberg, a high-net-worth individual from Buenos Aires, had the dream of opening a hotel in the Atacama Desert. And when she happened to visit Matías de Cristóbal’s shop – Awasi’s current general manager – in Buenos Aires, where he was selling high-quality handicrafts just as hand-woven ponchos, she immediately knew that he was Mister Right for her undertaking. And the former banker seized the opportunity of building a new luxury adventure lodge.

Matías de Cristóbal has been in charge of the three Awasi properties (Atacama since 2007, Patagonia since 2013 and Iguazu since 2018) ever since, and this for almost 20 years now. He persuaded his boss to opt for an African safari-style approach in the Atacama Desert

(see more below under Ambiance). And he voted for a more personalized approach compared to its competitor (Explora). Matías de Cristóbal thinks that luxury travel is connected with scarce things. He firmly believes that discerning travelers do not want to share their precious time with others who not necessarily have the same goals. So he brought in private guides, a n0velty in the area.

Ambiance/Staff

Awasi means “at home” in the local (extinct) language of Kunza. And it almost feels so being in your adobe hut. It is set apart from the others, and once inside it, intimacy is guaranteed. This is also true when lingering in the very private patio.

A drawback at this luxury Atacama hotel may be that you have no views whatsoever. As a replacement, you are here a short walk from the town’s main square, which allows you to experience its “old Western” vibe.

When you leave the privacy of your cottage, the communal areas very much remind of a typical African lodge. There is an open restaurant as well as an open bar. And the most prominent spot takes a fire-pit that is lit for the evening chill. The ambiance is relaxed yet does not have the groove of an adult-summer-camp as other adventures lodges. Instead, it feels somewhat sophisticated.

Staff goes the extra mile to ensure that the guests have a comfortable and enjoyable stay. No wish is too much for them. They know what you want before you communicate your desire or need. And they also chat with you a bit when the right conditions present themselves.

Rooms

I have already mentioned one thing or another about the rooms. The entry-level unit is the Round Room (50 sqm) with a bathroom featuring a shower and a single sink. Plus, there is a private patio with outdoor shower (there are two such rooms only). Alternatively, you find ten Superior Round Suites at Awasi Atacama luxury hotel.

We had one of those – for lack of availability of the less expensive option. They are bigger (65 sqm) and have a huge bathroom with shower, double sinks and bathtub.

In addition, there is sizable private patio with an outdoor shower.

The more expensive room category also comes with a walk-in wardrobe, desk and a chaise lounge. The latter is oversized and comfortable, draped with soft, handwoven alpaca blankets. In the evening at turn down they give you a thoughtful little gift with local reference, which is a nice touch.

Restaurant/Bar

The three Awasi properties are Relais & Châteaux hotels, which usually stand for culinary delights. And the promise is definitely kept at Awasi Atacama. Chef Juan Pablo Mardones has helming the cuisine since the very beginning. And he offers a local dining experience yet with a modern twist. Whenever possible he sources from the region and cooks according to old recipes passed down from generations in the area, too. His repertoire also consists of Native American dishes from pre-Hispanic times.

My husband and I liked what we got, be at breakfast, lunch or dinner. As to the latter, there usually is a daily changing menu

(barbecue with life music on Saturdays).

You can choose from two starters, mains and desserts each. For lunch they offer an à la carte menu with five starters, mains and desserts each plus a variety of lighter dishes.

Breakfast is also à la carte, much appreciated by us, with great choices.

A highlight was the picnic that we had when doing the full-day excursion to the El Patio geysers.

The wines that accompanied the meals were mostly good as well, although they rather served less expensive ones. For the elevated rate we paid, we would have considered premium wines as appropriate. Drinks were fine, and of course the (female) barkeeper knows how to do an excellent Pisco Sour.

Other facilities

There is a small pool if you want to refresh yourself and relax a bit in between excursions. Spa treatments are available upon request.

Excursions at Awasi Atacama luxury hotel

The main event at Awasi Atacama are of course the excursions, which are all included in the room price. A private guide is allocated to you, in our case Manuel who was fabulous. Upon arrival, he advised us on all the possibilities for half and full day outings. Think of exploring the area on foot, by car, on horseback or by bike. Everything we did was interesting and enjoyable. The highlight was the excursion to El Tatio Geysers where we experienced not only lots of these hot springs releasing jets of steam and water

but also varied landscapes and wildlife.

And Manuel also served us the most delightful lunch, three courses prepared by the Awasi’s kitchen staff.

Overall luxury hotel Awasi Atacama

While staying at Awasi Atacama is a costly affair – especially if the two entry-level rooms are already occupied – , they offer a lot for the money. I am not sure if the high pricing is justified, but these seem to be the market prices for such kind of all-inclusive high-end lodging around here. At least you are in for luxury with adventure at Awasi Atacama, and this at small scale hotel in a very personalized way. The property is gorgeous – African safari-like – , the guest room are spacious and luxuriously appointed, the service is top notch and the food is exquisite. Plus, the excursions with your private guide are just great. There is one thing, you have to want to embrace the “shielded” huts without any views. This distinguishes Awasi from the competition, which offers splendid vistas of  the “volcano land”.

Looking back and forward in my Chile & Buenos Aires reporting

Now with this report about how it is lodging at Hotel Awasi Atacama, I am done with Chile as to luxury hotels in nature. My last blogpost was about the same thing in Patagonia (Hotel The Singular Patagonia and Hotel Tierra Patagonia). My next three posts will be about how it staying and dining in style in the Chilean cities of Santiago and Valparaiso as well as in Argentina’s capital of Buenos Aires.

If you should be interested in the 20-day itinerary of the Chile and Buenos Aires journey my husband and I did, check out my correspondent post that contains My Google Map. It informs about all the high-end hotels and fine dining restaurants we visited and the things we did in these three cities (including city tours). And all this comes with lots of photos.

Date of stay: November 2023

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The post Staying in style at Hotel Awasi in the Atacama Desert in Northern Chile first appeared on Swiss Traveler

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Patagonia, shared between Chile and Argentina, at the southernmost point of South America, is a very special place. This windswept glacier country at the end of the world attracts more and more well-heeled travelers. So, you find here – in the Chilean part around the Torres del Paine National Park – high-end lodging too. It is not plentiful, often full, and the prices reflect the demand. While touring the area – see my itinerary post – , my husband and I stayed at two luxury hotels in Patagonia, at The Singular Patagonia and Tierra Patagonia.

Before going into the lodging experience at these two places, first an overview of all the upscale hotels in Chile’s Puerto Natales region. This is where the heart of Southern Patagonia is, around the Torres del Paine National Park.

Overview luxury hotels around Torres del Paine National Park Patagonia

There are four luxury hotels in the Torres del Paine National Park Patagonia area to choose from. I start with the one that is right inside the park and end with the one that is furthest away from it. All the accommodations expect The Singular only offer all-inclusive rates and require a minimum stay of three nights in the high season (November to February).

1. Explora Patagonia

This is the most favorably located high-end lodging of all as it is within the park. It is just by the Lake Pehoé, centrally situated for many activities. Staying here requires spending around 3,000 US$ for two per night (all-inclusive). This is in the high season for the standard room (28 sqm), which is simply furnished yet comfortable. The lodge was opened in 1993 and has 49 rooms. Explorations are carried out in small groups.

2. Tierra Patagonia

Tierra Patagonia is just outside the park boundaries by Lake Sarmiento with view of the Torres del Paine. From here to the park entrance you need about 20 minutes by car. They charge around 2,700 US$ for two per night (all-inclusive). And this is true in the high season for the standard room (33 sqm). Accommodations at Tierra are well appointed in a modern style. You find 40 of them at this hotel that was built in 2011. Excursions are available as part of small groups.

3. Awasi Patagonia luxury hotel

This luxury hotel is not far from Tierra Patagonia yet overlooks another part of Lake Sarmiento and the Torres del Paine. The drive to the park entrance lasts longer (45 minutes). This is the most upscale lodging of all and has a high price tag. You have to spend around 3,500 US$ for two per night (all-inclusive). Again that applies in the high season for the standard room. Having said that it is not your normal entry-level accommodation. Instead it is about a stand-alone building with 80 sqm space and offering every luxury. And there are only 14 units at the lodge that was opened in 2013. Plus, you have your own private guide for your explorations.

4. The Singular Patagonia luxury hotel

As mentioned, this is the hotel furthest away from the park. Actually, you need about one and half hour by car to the entrance. It is situated on the banks of the Ultima Esperanza Fiord in Puerto Bories, a few minutes by car away from Puerto Natales. In contrast to the other three lodging options, you can choose here from different rates and there is usually no minimum stay.

In the high season you pay around 900 US$ for two per night for the standard room (45 sqm) on a bed and breakfast basis. The accommodations are originally decorated with vintage and modern furniture, which gives them an eclectic feel. Alternatively, you can book the Half Board option (around 1,100 US$) or the Complete Experience (2,200 US$). In case you do not opt for the latter, you can book excursions separately (carried out in small groups). The Singular Patagonia, which is a former industrial space, was opened 2011 and has 57 rooms.

After this info to the high-end lodging around Patagonia’s most popular national park, now to the two luxury hotels I know from personal experience, The Singular Patagonia and Tierra Patagonia.

Staying in style at Hotel The Singular Patagonia

As I mentioned above, you have to drive quite a bit in order to get to the Torres del Paine National Park from here. And once inside the park, you need more time to reach the individual trail heads. So, The Singular Patagonia is not necessairly a substitute for the hotels in and just outside the park. Instead it may be rather suitable as a supplement for travelers on their way in or out of the park. This is especially true for the ones who want to do one or more full day hikes in the Torres del Paine National Park. On the other hand, the Singular Patagonia’s location is favorable if you want to be near the airport of Puerto Natales. This luxury hotel is only six minutes away from it.

The Singular Patagonia’s back story

The Singular Patagonia is something between a hotel and a museum. From 1915 until 1985 it was a cold storage plant which processed, froze and exported meat from Patagonia. The complex became a National Monument in 1996, a museum in 2004 and a hotel in 2011. All the original turbines and machines are still in place, with labels explaining their function.

The Singular Patagonia is family owned, and this by the Sahli family in the second generation. They put emphasis on reflecting the identity, the heritage, the social and cultural soul of where their hotels are located. Their other property is in Santiago, opened 2014 in the Lastarria neighborhood.

Ambiance/Staff

The Singular Patagonia does not hide that it used to be a slaughterhouse. It stands its ground, serving as proud symbol of the community’s history and traditions. The ambiance here is unstuffy and relaxed. Staff is gracious, accommodative and eager to please you.

Rooms

All the 57 rooms are in the newly built modern annex.

It suits the ancient buildings in which you find the reception, lobby and restaurants. All the rooms have the same glorious view overlooking the Ultima Esperanza Fiord. And this through floor-to-ceiling picture windows.

There is ample space with generous bathrooms.

And you find here a mix of modern and Victorian reproduction furniture.

Restaurants

The main dining spot, Singular Restaurant, serves exquisite French inspired food in a sophisticated yet casual setting.

Chef Hernán Basso prepares refined dishes with local ingredients just as guanaco or austral hake. His signature meal, lamb shoulder for two, is first-rate indeed. If you are on half board, you can choose three courses from the menu. And this meal plan also includes drinks and the house wines. My husband’s and my dinners at The Singular Restaurant were the best we had in Patagonia.

In addition, you find here also Desayunador, the breakfast place,

El Adasdor, specialized in wood-fired meats (not always open) and the Bar for light meals.

Other facilities

On site there is a 280 sqm spa with indoor and outdoor pool, sauna, steam room and treatment units. There are also bikes available so you can explore the surroundings by cycling.

Excursions

The excursions at The Singular Patagonia – included in the all-inclusive arrangement – are varied. They range from their signature full day trip to the Balmaceda Glacier on one of their small privately owned boats to trekking and horse riding outings in the area and full day excursions to the Torres del Paine National Park.

On our stay, the full-day navigation to Fiords and Glaciers by boat did not take place because it was too windy (370 US$ per person), so we settled for two half day hiking tours in the surroundings (120 US$ per half day and person). They are carried out in small groups and are well organized and led. They also include drinks and snacks.

Overall The Singular Patagonia

Although The Singular Patagonia is quite a bit away from the Torres del Paine National Park, my husband and I enjoyed our stay here more than our other at a luxury hotel just outside the park’s boundaries (see below). In my opinion, it offers much more value for money, especially if you choose the half board option. We did so as we were in no need of the third meal per day. Plus, we wanted to be flexible as to excursions. In addition, we liked The Singular’s vibe and the food much better, which were more upscale than it was the case at its competitor.  I would especially recommend this hotel if you do not want to do long and strenuous hikes at every day of your stay (for instance nine hour-hike to the Base of Torres del Paine).

Now to the second lodging we had in Patagonia, which turned out – as mentioned – to be a bit of a disappointment. This in particular given the steep rate of almost 3,000 US$ per day.

Staying in style at Hotel Tierra Patagonia

As to the headline, I have to backtrack a little. We did not receive as much luxury as the high price would suggest. If you really want to stay in style adjacent to the Torres del Paine National Park, then I suggest choosing Hotel Awasi Patagonia instead. While I have not been here, I resided at Hotel Awasi Atacama – post to follow – , which was top notch. And I suppose the experience is not much different at their sister lodge in Patagonia. But back to Tierra Patagonia.

The Tierra Patagonia’s back story

Tierra Patagonia is the middle child of three – the others are in the Atacama Desert and on Chiloé Island. This hotel group was founded by the Chilean Purcell family, who previously also was the sole owner of it. End of 2022, the Australian based ultra-luxury Baillie Lodges acquired a majority share in Tierra Hotels. This collection of luxury hotels had been bought in 2019 by KSL Capital Partners, an investment company.

The Tierra Patagonia is not only thoughtfully built so it almost disappears into the land, it is also a true beauty. The building is of a sweeping, curving shape that is inspired by the wind. And lots of it is finished in local wood, both in the exteriors and the interiors.

Ambiance/Staff

While the property is generous and nicely designed, it is everything but stylish or chic. Despite its modern appearance, it has a rustic and down-to earth flair. Tierra Patagonia is not the place to dress up or to have a sophisticated dinner. Instead, you find here guests in casual gear and also in bigger groups – there was a big German group on our stay. As a consequence of the open plan layout, it also can get quite noisy.

Staff was a bit a mixed package. Whereas the expedition team knows to persuade in every aspect, this is not the case at the restaurant and the adjacent bar. Most servers were friendly and helpful yet some lacked competence and experience. For my husband and me, the approach was a bit too much on the casual side, again in view of the elevated price level.

Rooms

All 40 rooms in the low-lying, two-story building offer uninterrupted views of the Torres mountains, which are on the other side of the lake. It definitely is a highlight to watch the changing scenery through the big picture windows! There are two types of room (apart from the suites), the Standard with 33 sqm and the Superior with 36 sqm. While I found the Superior’s bathroom quite spacious, the bedroom felt a bit cramped to me. Again there is lots of wood in the rooms along with a simple, minimalist decor.

Restaurant/Bar

There is as mentioned a single restaurant with a bar. Coming from the lobby, you pass a few tables by a fire place and a round bar before reaching – seamlessly – the restaurant. If you happen to have a table near the bar, this might be inconvenient. This is especially the case if a large group – the mentioned German party of about 25 persons – has pre-dinner drinks here.

As to food, there usually is a daily changing menu for dinner (barbecue on Saturdays). You can make your choice out of three starters, three mains (meat, fish, vegetarian) and two desserts respectively cheese or ice cream/sorbet. Some dishes were good, other were nothing special. If you are a foodie with certain expectations, you probably will be disappointed by the offer. For sure, value for money is not good enough.

Other facilities

On site you find a Uma spa with an indoor pool that comes with hydro-massage and waterjets. An outdoor whirlpool and yoga sessions in a separate room complete the offer. If you want to make a self-guided walk on the premises, no problem. There is a path to Sarmiento Lake, and you can walk along its edge for quite a long stretch.

Excursions

All the excursions – also the sailing to Grey Glacier, which is highly recommended – are included in the room rate.

Apart from the mentioned sailing it is about exploring the park via walks/hikes, biking or riding, and this in form of half or full day trips. The excursion team does a really good job. A dedicated coordinator advises the guests as well arranges and accompanies the activities. Young guides with much elan carry through the excursions, in small groups. We loved the experience, which also included drinks and snacks.

Overall Tierra Patagonia

At the risk of repeating myself: I do not think that Tierra Patagonia is worth its high price tag. Of course, the building in nothing short of impressive. Plus, the hotel is conveniently located for visiting the Torres del Paine National Park. And last but not least, the excursion team does a brilliant job. But that is it. Rooms are rather small and nothing special. The quality of food is mixed. Service at the restaurant/bar varies. Bottom line, Tierra Patagonia rather feels like an average four-star establishment, and this as absolute wallet breaker! Yet it seems that the demand is there!

Looking back and forward in my Chile & Buenos Aires reporting

My last and first blogpost about Chile and Buenos Aires was about a 20-day itinerary in style my husband and I did. It is first and foremost about My Google Map including all the luxury lodging and fine dining restaurants we were. Plus, I list all the activities we did. This also involves city tours in keywords to Buenos Aires, Santiago and Valparaiso. And everything comes with correspondent pictures.

This very post delivered all the details to our Patagonia stay at two high-end hotels, The Singular Patagonia and the Tierra Patagonia near the Torres del Paine Nationalpark. I will do the same for the Atacama Desert in my next post where we lodged at the Awasi.

Then I will also let you know where to stay and dine in style in Santiago, Valparaiso and Buenos Aires.

Date of stay: November 2023

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The post Staying in style in Southern Patagonia/Chile around Torres del Paine first appeared on Swiss Traveler

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As a significant stage in the life of my husband and mine is about to come to an end – more info to follow later this year – , we  treated us to a special journey. It is about a once in a lifetime trip to Chile. We had thought hard about where to go in South America. After visiting Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands a few years ago, we had been a bit unsure where to head next. Brazil seemed too dangerous for us, Peru rather over-run by tourists. So, we opted for Chile. And this mainly because of its many natural wonders. As always when traveling we were looking for a luxury trip to Chile. While we usually try to avoid overspending when vacationing, we miserably failed here – so much I can tell you already. But first things first.

I start with some thoughts about where to go in Chile for luxury-minded globetrotters and then come to the actual itinerary.

Traveling Chile in style

While we first thought we had had plenty of time (20 days) to explore Chile, we soon found out that this was not necessarily the case. Out of four highlights – Atacama Desert, Patagonia, Easter Island and Lake District – , we had to leave away the latter two. First of all, we “lost” three days because we had a stopover in Buenos Aires.

We opted for this not only because of this city’s beauty but also due to less flight costs when doing so (minus a bit more than 2,000 US$ for two). And second, we longed for a non-rushed itinerary. Having said that we wanted to see different parts of Chile, not only one. Yet Patagonia is usually a must for every Chile traveler boasting varied landscapes with impressive glaciers, bizarre rock formations, blue lakes and extensive steppes.

Patagonia (south Chile, from Puerto Montt to Cape Horn) luxury trip

You have to know that you can easily spend four weeks in Patagonia without seeing it all. It is said that you need about two weeks to do the mayor things here, and this in a quick way. As you might know, Patagonia has a harsh climate. As my husband and I are not too much into spending lots of time at such latitudes, we limited our time here to five days. This is about the minimum time you should come and only allows you to explore one place. My husband and I chose Patagonia’s crown jewel. This is about the Torres del Paine National Park in Southern Patagonia (see post about luxury hotels here). You can reach it by flying into Puerto Natales from Santiago in just over three hours. Then you have to drive another one and half hours to get to the national park’s entrance.

A second Chile destination: Atacama Desert (north Chile, from Copiapó to Peruvian border)

If you want to combine Patagonia with a second destination in Chile – and if you like nature – , then the Atacama Desert is your best option (see post about luxury hotels here). While the Lake District also seems to be worthwhile traveling, Atacama is something special. It is not only the driest nonpolar desert in the world but also features diverse landscapes including geysers, lagoons, volcanoes and crusty hills. As to Easter Island, you have to take into account a flight of five and a half hours in order to get there. To enjoy the island’s cultural heritage and natural beauty to the full, I suppose you should plan at least a four-day stay. So, you need almost one week for this undertaking.

Thus, we went for Patagonia and the Atacama Desert. And to be honest, both of them are not exactly off the beaten path. They suffer from overtourism, especially the place we chose in Patagonia (Torres del Paine National Park). I fully realized this only after our journey. Yet, also in the hindsight, we would make the same choices. The Lake District, the most viable alternative to South Patagonia, is considered as “Chilean Switzerland”. And we as Swiss not necessarily need more Switzerland when traveling.

Santiago & Valparaiso as urban complements to Patagonia & Atacama Desert

Around the two nature highlights of Patagonia and the Atacama Desert we built in a number of urban stays. On the one hand, we were three times in Santiago (post about staying & dining in style) – once at an airport hotel as you cannot fly directly from the Atacama Desert to Patagonia.

On the other hand, we made a three-day visit to Valparaiso (post about staying & dining in style) – a one and a half hour drive away from Santiago.

This beautiful port city is Chile’s second largest and known for its colorful houses built on the many hills that surround it – and Valparaiso is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

In total, we had five days in Santiago and three days in Valparaiso. That is a lot of time, but as mentioned, we were looking for a non-rushed itinerary. You can easily reduce the Santiago stay to three days – you probably need one of them for a stopover between the Atacama Desert and Patagonia. As to Valparaiso, two days might be enough to see the mayor sights. We had thought about exploring the wine regions near Santiago. Yet we did not come across a suitable hotel, and so we let it be.

After setting the scene as to this luxury Chile trip, I jump into the details of our Buenos Aires and Chile itinerary.

My Google Map of Chile & Buenos Aires in style, a non-rushed 20-day itinerary 

My Google Map illustrates the 20-day journey to Chile and Buenos Aires my husband and I undertook in the first half of November 2023.

You find here all the luxury hotels (Patagonia, Atacama Desert, Santiago de Chile, Valparaiso and Buenos Aires) we stayed

and the foodie restaurants (Santiago de Chile, Valparaiso and Buenos Aires) we dined,

complete with pictures. In addition, I included all the activities we did,

again with photos.

As far as our stays in Patagonia around Puerto Natales and in the Atacama Desert in the San Pedro area are concerned, I listed all the half and full days trip guided by the hotels we stayed.

With regard to the cities we visited (Buenos Aires, Santiago and Valparaiso), I indicated the routes we took to explore them (self-guided).

In the following, there is also a travel plan of this luxury Chile trip with the number of nights we spent at the respective location (plus hotel).

• 3 nights in Buenos Aires (Park Hyatt Buenos Aires)
• 2 nights in Santiago (The Singular Santiago)
• 4 nights in San Pedro de Atacama (Awasi Atacama)
• 1 night in Santiago (airport, Holiday Inn Santiago)
• 2 nights in Puerto Natales (The Singular Patagonia)
• 3 nights in Torres del Paine National Park (Tierra Patagonia)
• 3 nights in Valparaiso (Casa Higueras)
• 2 nights in Santiago (The Singular Santiago)

What is next about Chile & Buenos Aires

While I provided an overview of our Chile and Buenos 20-day luxury trip in this blogpost, my next posts will be about the details of the respective stops we did. When doing so, I will focus on the hotels and restaurants we visited. Most of them were high-end, as it was a luxury Chile trip. At one point or another, I will also cast a look at activities, yet these will no be at the center of my attention. Instead, refer to My Google Map of Chile & Buenos Aires in style where I have listed all the things we did, complete with (numbered) pictures.

My Chile short series will cover following topics:

• Patagonia (my post): Hotel The Singular Patagonia (half board) and Hotel Tierra (all-inclusive)
• Atacama Desert (my post): Hotel Awasi Atacama (all-inclusive)
• Santiago (my post): Hotel The Singular Santiago and three foodie restaurants
• Valparaiso (my post): Hotel Casa Higueras and three high-end dining spots
• Buenos Aires (my post): Hotel Park Hyatt Buenos Aires and three gourmet restaurants

Date of stays: November 2023

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The post Chile & Buenos Aires in style, a non-rushed 20-day itinerary appeared first on Swiss Traveler.